*Ask Broadfield*

[Broadfield]

I spend a LOT of time answering the same questions over and over again... and some of these answers are not short. I simply don't have the time to constantly answer the same questions. I also like helping others out and encourage them to ask questions. So that's what this thread is for. If you have questions about any product I sell, any product I fabricate, my build, my life or what I think of this-or-that, then this is the place. Feel free to ask anything, but I obviously reserve the right to not answer if it's too personal or just plain weird. My goal is to be able to re-route users back to this thread if they ask me a previously answered question in another thread, PM etc. I can just link to the particular post # that has the answer.... done! We can also talk about fabrication techniques and whatnot. Keep in mind, if you have a specific question about a product that I currently have in a vendor for sale thread, then obviously feel free to ask the question in the appropriate thread. Lets do this!

[innovation]

What would be your sub 100k (price range) dream car to modify?

[S14DB]

To keep this thread alive and not locked due to being a post whore thread. Lets keep it to his area's of expertise.

Any Random or Off-Topic questions will be deleted. If you aren't asking a question don't post unless you are Broadfield. Abuse will result in punishment.

Back to the thread:
Have you used any of the free-air subs that are designed to be used in the rear deck? Like the Kicker 10CVT654 for example.

[Broadfield]

What would be your sub 100k (price range) dream car to modify?

That's a really good question because it's actually very tough for me to answer. I'm the type of guy that would rather buy a $10k car and put $90k into it. That way I'm not driving some stock $100k car that every doctor, rich guy owns. But if I had the loot to buy a $100k car AND modify it, then I'm gonna go with a slightly used Porsche 997 911 Turbo.


Have you used any of the free-air subs that are designed to be used in the rear deck? Like the Kicker 10CVT654 for example.

Yes, especially back in the very early 90's. They will never perform as well as a subwoofer in a conventional enclosure setup, but there are obviously several advantages. The big one is no enclosure taking up space... and along with that the price of said enclosure. If you want a free-air sub I would recommend either FI or maybe some of the JL Audio free-air marine subs. The FI stuff is really good for a very reasonable amount of money. No matter which sub is chosen it's very important to make the mounting area is as rigid as possible. Basically you would be making a baffle out of 3/4" MDF and then screwed to the underside of the rear deck if possible. The subs would then mount to the underside of the MDF. You would also want to sound deaden the top of the rear deck and underside before you screw the MDF on. Then use as much power as the sub(s) will handle.

[DS562]

where did you acquire the automotive knowledge you possess?

[sickstatus]

What sound system set up do you suggest in the $300-500 price range?

[Quail]

Do you believe that the weight of a properly installed sound system (trunk-mounted subwoofer included) would make any noticeable difference in the performance of a road car?

[Nicelyphe]

What are the possibilities to cut down on electric noise/motor noise through audio, for example a CarPC set-up. When the PC is OFF there is high frequencies coming from the speakers in relation to the amount of RPMs the motor is at.

[Broadfield]

where did you acquire the automotive knowledge you possess?

My father always taught me to do everything myself. If I didn't know how to do something I would simply teach myself. I believe people are just naturally good at things. For me it's anything to do with cars.... I'm also a pretty good artist. I have won many awards for various pieces of art in my earlier years. I have three bachelors degrees in physics, mathematics and applied computer science. However, I rarely use those in my line of work. So when it comes down to it, I believe I'm naturally good at what I do. On the flip side I'm a horrible cook.

What sound system set up do you suggest in the $300-500 price range?

I need to know what all you want: head unit, speakers, amplifier, subwoofer?

Do you believe that the weight of a properly installed sound system (trunk-mounted subwoofer included) would make any noticeable difference in the performance of a road car?

Absolutely not.... track car yes.

[biggie]

Since I've heard you have alarm knowledge.

A Circuit City installed alarm (Python I believe).

Worked fine, then 5speed swap happened. Ever since the doors lock themselves when the car is turned off, as well as locking back 1 second after you hit the unlock button on the key fob.

Would assume it was a wire going to the AT shifter or something, but I suck at wiring/electronics.

[fyneyoungstunna]

You built a 240sx in the "post your interior thread" I have always wondered about the popup speedometer you had on there. have you ever come across one of the windshield units?

[nissanfreak317]

I have seen you "refinish" oem hard plastic interior pieces like door handles and stuff. Do you use some kind of polish for that? Mine are beat up and don't look nice at all anymore.

How about polishing the oem plastic cover for the gauge clusters?

Do you perform these tasks for money?

[ShakotanGazelle]

Do you think you can post some pictures of your notched RLCA setup to fit your 11j VSKFs on stock body? And what would be a good sound system setup (4 speakers, a sub and amplifier) for under 300?

[hobbs]

What type of flat/stain black paint do you use to finish interior pieces? I believe it's made by 3M?

[Broadfield]

What are the possibilities to cut down on electric noise/motor noise through audio, for example a CarPC set-up. When the PC is OFF there is high frequencies coming from the speakers in relation to the amount of RPMs the motor is at.

In my experience, which is a lot at this point, CarPC's usually have poor ground isolation. So I'm not surprised if you are having issues. Any decent car audio component will have good ground isolation properties. Which if installed correctly will lead to a noise free listening experience. In the case of the CarPC, the engineers didn't put as much focus on sound quality and noise rejection as much as what Alpine engineers would. So some simple questions first:


Did you run your RCA's for the amplifier down the opposite side of the vehicle from the power wire?
Where is your ground for the CarPC and the amplifier?
If you unplug the RCA's from the amplifier do you still have the noise?


Get back to me and we'll go from there.

Since I've heard you have alarm knowledge.

A Circuit City installed alarm (Python I believe).

Worked fine, then 5speed swap happened. Ever since the doors lock themselves when the car is turned off, as well as locking back 1 second after you hit the unlock button on the key fob.

Would assume it was a wire going to the AT shifter or something, but I suck at wiring/electronics.

It has nothing to do with the transmission. I don't know what a 5-speed swap involves, but something got messed up, a wire pinched etc.

Do the doors lock correctly when you hit the lock button on the Python?

You built a 240sx in the "post your interior thread" I have always wondered about the popup speedometer you had on there. have you ever come across one of the windshield units?

The unit I used was the Defi-Link VSD-X. Which was discontinued in 2010. The unit that displays on the windshield is the Defi-Link Display VSD Concept. Which was discontinued in 2007. You can find both of them on Ebay from time-to-time.

I have seen you "refinish" oem hard plastic interior pieces like door handles and stuff. Do you use some kind of polish for that? Mine are beat up and don't look nice at all anymore.

How about polishing the oem plastic cover for the gauge clusters?

Do you perform these tasks for money?

As for any hard plastic pieces, I simply clean them up and paint them with the SEM Color Coat product. I use either Landau Black or Satin Black. The charge would depend on what all you want done.

Polishing the cluster glass is a lot more work. I wet sand it inside and out with 1200 grit, then 1500 and finally 2000. I then polish both sides with an air polisher with four different stages of Pinnacle product... #4, #3, #2 and finishing with #1. I charge $50 to polish the glass.

Do you think you can post some pictures of your notched RLCA setup to fit your 11j VSKFs on stock body? And what would be a good sound system setup (4 speakers, a sub and amplifier) for under 300?

The next time I have the wheel(s) off I will try to remember to snap a couple pics.

What type of flat/stain black paint do you use to finish interior pieces? I believe it's made by 3M?

I use the SEM Color Coat line... mainly Satin Black and Landau Black. They are very close to each other... the Landau Black is a tad bit richer.

[KiLLeR2001]

I PM'd you this yesterday but I'll post it here so there won't be a repeat question...

I was browsing through the interior thread and noticed a digital fuel gauge you did for somebody...

http://tehl33tsite.com/240sxdd/help/digifuel.jpg

My first question to you is, where can I find a gauge like this that will display fuel in either % remaining or gallons remaining? I tried looking online and can't really find anything.

Question #2. I plan on locating it here...

http://tehl33tsite.com/240sxdd/help/fuelloc.jpg

But I'm not sure if there is enough space on the top region to place a circular gauge since I only want to expose the digital number through that section in form of a rectangle.

Any tips or tricks to go about this little project would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

[waxball88]

Will i one day be as great as you?

[Broadfield]

I PM'd you this yesterday but I'll post it here so there won't be a repeat question...

I was browsing through the interior thread and noticed a digital fuel gauge you did for somebody...

http://tehl33tsite.com/240sxdd/help/digifuel.jpg

My first question to you is, where can I find a gauge like this that will display fuel in either % remaining or gallons remaining? I tried looking online and can't really find anything.

Question #2. I plan on locating it here...

http://tehl33tsite.com/240sxdd/help/fuelloc.jpg

But I'm not sure if there is enough space on the top region to place a circular gauge since I only want to expose the digital number through that section in form of a rectangle.

Any tips or tricks to go about this little project would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

I officially like the Autometer one because it's the only one that I have seen that is fully programmable to match whatever sending unit you are using:

Auto Meter (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3665&sid=-2)

http://www.autometer.com/img/products/6310_d.jpg

I like to mount them behind smoked plexi. I also disassemble the gauge and paint the inside all black. Otherwise you may see some of the white text though the plexi.

I have done several setups with various techniques:

This first setup is the easiest:


http://images54.fotki.com/v627/photos/2/47612/10154490/IMG_6246-vi.jpg

http://images57.fotki.com/v256/photos/2/47612/10154490/IMG_6308-vi.jpg

http://images108.fotki.com/v205/photos/2/47612/10154490/IMG_6268-vi.jpg

This method is much more difficult because I first had to fill in the spot where the OEM switch was:

Build pics here:

Josh's S13 Cluster, HUD, Center Vent and Cluster Shroud album | Broadfield | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy. (http://public.fotki.com/broadfield/personal_audio_installs/joshs-s13-cluster-h/)

http://images41.fotki.com/v9/photos/2/47612/9704802/IMG_4084-vi.jpg

http://images108.fotki.com/v191/photos/2/47612/9704802/IMG_4091-vi.jpg

http://images50.fotki.com/v1528/photos/2/47612/9704802/IMG_4068-vi.jpg

Then an AEM air/fuel gauge I did in an STi:

Build pics here:

Mike Defalco's Vent Gauge STi album | Broadfield | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy. (http://public.fotki.com/broadfield/personal_audio_installs/mike-defalcos-vent-/)

http://images59.fotki.com/v683/photos/2/47612/10113873/IMG_6004-vi.jpg

http://images59.fotki.com/v683/photos/2/47612/10113873/IMG_6013-vi.jpg

http://images54.fotki.com/v627/photos/2/47612/10113873/IMG_6017-vi.jpg



Will i one day be as great as you?

That's entirely up to you.... but good luck:D

[Nicelyphe]

In my experience, which is a lot at this point, CarPC's usually have poor ground isolation. So I'm not surprised if you are having issues. Any decent car audio component will have good ground isolation properties. Which if installed correctly will lead to a noise free listening experience. In the case of the CarPC, the engineers didn't put as much focus on sound quality and noise rejection as much as what Alpine engineers would. So some simple questions first:


Did you run your RCA's for the amplifier down the opposite side of the vehicle from the power wire?
Where is your ground for the CarPC and the amplifier?
If you unplug the RCA's from the amplifier do you still have the noise?


Get back to me and we'll go from there.



I'm running two amps, one for the front speakers and one for the subs. These two sets of RCA's go from in my glove box to underneath the center console and into the trunk. My battery is in the trunk, but the main power wire runs through the firewall then along the passenger side of the chassis, to the trunk.

The CarPC itself is a "Net-top" unit. Which for example here's a link to one just for reference.

ViewSonic - VOT132 - 2 GB RAM - 1.6 GHz (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=net+top&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=cat&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1440&bih=697&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=803079971954827838&sa=X&ei=MbU9T_6JHsLY0QGY4rXbBw&ved=0CLUCEPMCMAo)

The unit I do not have a separate ground on, only ground I could think of is the ground that runs through the power adapter. [Looks like a laptop adapter] Which I have running to a cigarette lighter power source mounted under the dash.

The RCA's I have not attempted to unplug and see. I did run a switch in-between the remote signal wire of the amps so I can turn them off when the PC is off. That was the only thing I could think of to do to get rid of the noise while the PC is off. Would that kind of be my only route to go?

[KiLLeR2001]

I officially like the Autometer one because it's the only one that I have seen that is fully programmable to match whatever sending unit you are using:

Auto Meter (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3665&sid=-2)

[IMG]

I like to mount them behind smoked plexi. I also disassemble the gauge and paint the inside all black. Otherwise you may see some of the white text though the plexi.

I have done several setups with various techniques:

This first setup is the easiest:

[IMG]

This method is much more difficult because I first had to fill in the spot where the OEM switch was:

Build pics here:

Josh's S13 Cluster, HUD, Center Vent and Cluster Shroud album | Broadfield | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy. (http://public.fotki.com/broadfield/personal_audio_installs/joshs-s13-cluster-h/)

[IMG]

Then an AEM air/fuel gauge I did in an STi:

Build pics here:

Mike Defalco's Vent Gauge STi album | Broadfield | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy. (http://public.fotki.com/broadfield/personal_audio_installs/mike-defalcos-vent-/)

[IMG]



Extremely helpful, thank you Toby the super-genius.

More questions...

What products are you using the fill in the stock bezel? And where can I buy smoked plexiglass?

[Broadfield]

I'm running two amps, one for the front speakers and one for the subs. These two sets of RCA's go from in my glove box to underneath the center console and into the trunk. My battery is in the trunk, but the main power wire runs through the firewall then along the passenger side of the chassis, to the trunk.

The CarPC itself is a "Net-top" unit. Which for example here's a link to one just for reference.

ViewSonic - VOT132 - 2 GB RAM - 1.6 GHz (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=net+top&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=cat&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1440&bih=697&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=803079971954827838&sa=X&ei=MbU9T_6JHsLY0QGY4rXbBw&ved=0CLUCEPMCMAo)

The unit I do not have a separate ground on, only ground I could think of is the ground that runs through the power adapter. [Looks like a laptop adapter] Which I have running to a cigarette lighter power source mounted under the dash.

The RCA's I have not attempted to unplug and see. I did run a switch in-between the remote signal wire of the amps so I can turn them off when the PC is off. That was the only thing I could think of to do to get rid of the noise while the PC is off. Would that kind of be my only route to go?

It sounds like it's just an issue with the CarPC. So since you can't change it, you can simply try some RCA noise filters. The downfall of these are that they remove low frequencies. However, since you are running subs and I assume the noise is only coming out of the front speakers, then you will be fine. Try this:

PAC SNI-1 - Ground loop isolator (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=pac+RCA+noise+filter&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=931214073929443298&sa=X&ei=FcM9T4evGYmLgwezxZSnCA&ved=0CEYQ8wIwAQ)

Extremely helpful, thank you Toby the super-genius.

More questions...

What products are you using the fill in the stock bezel? And where can I buy smoked plexiglass?

Very good question, because this stuff is the bees knees! I use two brands:


3M Semi Rigid Plastic Repair
Norton Speed Grip


For the Norton I use the 1 minute and the 5 minute depending on how much working time I need with the product. You will need a special applicator gun that isn't cheap. However, I also used this gun when I did the seam sealer in my engine bay... so it can be used for the dispensing of various types of products. Pictured here if you need the part # of the gun:

http://images116.fotki.com/v617/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG_5837-vi.jpg

I actually bought the smoked plexi from Menards... otherwise if your local super hardware store doesn't have it, you can buy it online.

[Nicelyphe]

It sounds like it's just an issue with the CarPC. So since you can't change it, you can simply try some RCA noise filters. The downfall of these are that they remove low frequencies. However, since you are running subs and I assume the noise is only coming out of the front speakers, then you will be fine. Try this:

PAC SNI-1 - Ground loop isolator (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=pac+RCA+noise+filter&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=931214073929443298&sa=X&ei=FcM9T4evGYmLgwezxZSnCA&ved=0CEYQ8wIwAQ)



Yes, noise only to the fronts. I'll be checking this out! Thank you.

[KiLLeR2001]

Very good question, because this stuff is the bees knees! I use two brands:


3M Semi Rigid Plastic Repair
Norton Speed Grip


For the Norton I use the 1 minute and the 5 minute depending on how much working time I need with the product. You will need a special applicator gun that isn't cheap. However, I also used this gun when I did the seam sealer in my engine bay... so it can be used for the dispensing of various types of products. Pictured here if you need the part # of the gun:

http://images116.fotki.com/v617/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG_5837-vi.jpg

I actually bought the smoked plexi from Menards... otherwise if your local super hardware store doesn't have it, you can buy it online.

Mother of god I think I'm in thread heaven. Big thanks again. I'm starting a huge interior project on my car this summer and I've got lots of ideas already. I'll most likely be needing your services for a center vent gauge pod in a couple months. :kiss:

[sickstatus]

I need to know what all you want: head unit, speakers, amplifier, subwoofer?





Speakers, amp, sub.

I bought a head unit from you but debating to get another one with Bluetooth.

Currently have new infinity kappas in front. But willing to buy new set up.

[Nicelyphe]

Is there a better way to add power and ground connections for accessory's such as gauges and stuff rather than tapping into the stock harness's?

For example I have my gauge illumination power tapped into the stock headunit harness for power.


Also, I have an electric rad fan connected to a rocker switch in my cabin. When I turn on the fan I have a constant draw of about 50-100 rpms at idle. Is there a proper way to keep it from doing this.

[chiboy002]

thanks for the thread toby!

do you know what i can use to remove rubberized undercoating?
paint stripper isnt working well enough and heating it up isn't doing much help either

[Broadfield]

Yes, noise only to the fronts. I'll be checking this out! Thank you.

No problem!

Mother of god I think I'm in thread heaven. Big thanks again. I'm starting a huge interior project on my car this summer and I've got lots of ideas already. I'll most likely be needing your services for a center vent gauge pod in a couple months. :kiss:

Sounds good man, just get in touch with me.

Speakers, amp, sub.

I bought a head unit from you but debating to get another one with Bluetooth.

Currently have new infinity kappas in front. But willing to buy new set up.

Hybrid Mirius series speakers, ARC Audio XDi amplifier and probable a JL Audio sub. That would be in the "right under" $500 range for some VERY nice stuff. Are you going to be running front and rear speakers or just the fronts?

Is there a better way to add power and ground connections for accessory's such as gauges and stuff rather than tapping into the stock harness's?

For example I have my gauge illumination power tapped into the stock headunit harness for power.


Also, I have an electric rad fan connected to a rocker switch in my cabin. When I turn on the fan I have a constant draw of about 50-100 rpms at idle. Is there a proper way to keep it from doing this.

To get the most current capability you can tap into the heavy gauge wires at the ignition harness. Obviously there is constant power, ignition power and accessory power all there in one location. This way you don't have to worry about overloading a circuit and popping a fuse. But gauges and the like draw VERY little power, so just tapping into the radio wiring is fine. If you tap into the ignition harness make sure every piece of equipment you add is fused.

It's not uncommon that high output electric fans cause the idle to drop. However, the idle should recover shortly after the initial drop. Does it? If not, then some of the common issues are a slight vacuum leak or a weak alternator.

thanks for the thread toby!

do you know what i can use to remove rubberized undercoating?
paint stripper isnt working well enough and heating it up isn't doing much help either

Aircraft stripper.... assuming you don't mind going down to bare metal underneath!?!

[lewisfk]

do u have any parts left over from you sr build, or those calipers i asked about!

[Broadfield]

do u have any parts left over from you sr build, or those calipers i asked about!

I'm not sure what calipers you are talking about?

I have this stuff brand new:

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/426344-brand-new-built-sr-internals-cp-pistons-wiring-specialties-clevite-oem-nissan.html

I have two S15 6-speed transmissions

I have a brand new Chargespeed S13 coupe kit minus the front 20mm fenders that I acquired from a friend:

Front bumper
Rear bumper
Sideskirts
50 rear overs


Nate's ChargeSpeed Aero album | Broadfield | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy. (http://public.fotki.com/broadfield/parts-for-sale-1/nates-chargespeed-aero/)

[dkim1985]

hey broadfield.
i love your work and how all your interior parts are so clean~
is there a thread or do you have any kind of process to restore the plastic interior pieces?

for example, i have a s13 and the black plastic pieces are looking old and worn out and have been thinking about repainting them and what not but not sure where to start. any suggestions or recommendations for process and/or products?

[sickstatus]

I'm on my iPhone, too lazy to quote n delete other posts,

I'll be using front n rear speakers with tweeters. my front pillars has stereo cover for them.

[biggie]

It has nothing to do with the transmission. I don't know what a 5-speed swap involves, but something got messed up, a wire pinched etc.

Do the doors lock correctly when you hit the lock button on the Python?

Sorry for being slow on reply, but yes they lock fine with the button. Just when you push the unlock button they unlock and then lock back.

Was just thinking there was some kind of check on a P/N switch and that would cause the issue. Though in the 5spd swap the main P/N switch under the hood is jumped.

[Nicelyphe]

My car seems to not run as efficient when I'm playing music, the set-up includes the CarPC and Subs as we have previously spoke about. I'm running the stock SR alternator at the moment. [My second one..I think I fried the first one cause I heard a weird noise then my dash light went on and the car died once the battery died.]

Would upgrading to the 125AMP Quest alternator really help the situation in power draw and such? Would the 75AMP alt fuse have to be upgraded to properly run a higher amp alternator?

How much role does a battery play in this situation? I'm currently running the stock s13 battery branded by Exide. Would running anything like an Optima help in power performance? I don't have interest in running a capacitor.

[lewisfk]

[QUOTE=Broadfield;4525609]I'm not sure what calipers you are talking about?

I have this stuff brand new:

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/426344-brand-new-built-sr-internals-cp-pistons-wiring-specialties-clevite-oem-nissan.html

I have two S15 6-speed transmissions

I have a brand new Chargespeed S13 coupe kit minus the front 20mm fenders that I acquired from a friend:

Front bumper
Rear bumper
Sideskirts
50 rear overs


how much are u asking?

[Seraphim38]

First: Broadfield: massive props for supporting the community. I have 2 questions:

Is there not an aftermarket fiberglass subwoofer enclosure made for a standard spare tire well (that would fit in an S13 hatch)? I can't believe that someone other than JL doesn't make a decent fiberglass enclosure. I can pay someone to custom build one but it seems like a waste, since this is such a common thing to do.

Second: This is a dual purpose daily/track car that I have tried to shave weight as much as possible. I do want to have a stereo though. What is the best performing light weight subwoofer on the market, in, say a 12" size? It's probably going to be a neodymium driver. I am already using Class D amps to cut down on weight, and plan on using the Morel Maximo components up front.

Thanks!

[merks]

What would be a good single din head unit that is capable of blue tooth stream of music from my phone?

[Broadfield]

hey broadfield.
i love your work and how all your interior parts are so clean~
is there a thread or do you have any kind of process to restore the plastic interior pieces?

for example, i have a s13 and the black plastic pieces are looking old and worn out and have been thinking about repainting them and what not but not sure where to start. any suggestions or recommendations for process and/or products?

If there are any scratches, cracks, gouges etc then you will want to repair those first. There are a couple different methods you can use. First, clean the entire piece by washing it with warm soapy water. Let dry and then wipe down with some form of 3M adhesive remover or Maxx Solv etc. For small nicks/gouges I like to fill them with superglue and use a spray accelerator to instantly activate it. This will fill the hole and is sandable instantly. You will want to sand it all the way smooth and finish with wet 400 or 600. You can then spray the piece with whatever color of SEM Color Coat paint you want. I prefer Satin Black and Landau Black.

If the piece you want to finish just has swirl marks on it then you can clean as above, then then scuff it with a grey scuff pad. Then simply paint it with the SEM paint.

I'm on my iPhone, too lazy to quote n delete other posts,

I'll be using front n rear speakers with tweeters. my front pillars has stereo cover for them.

Do you want to amplify the front and rear speakers also? If so, ARC Audio makes a killer 5-channel amplifier. It would run you another $100.... so right under $600 for everything

Sorry for being slow on reply, but yes they lock fine with the button. Just when you push the unlock button they unlock and then lock back.

Was just thinking there was some kind of check on a P/N switch and that would cause the issue. Though in the 5spd swap the main P/N switch under the hood is jumped.

I'm not really sure what could of gotten messed up by simply doing a trans swap. The alarm only taps into parking lights, door trigger, door lock wire, ignition, constant, starter wire interrupt and the siren under the hood... maybe trunk if that was hooked up. It just doesn't make sense assuming everything is wired just as it was before the swap. To me it sounds like something is wired incorrectly.... but that's hard for me to determine from across the country on a computer. If you have a test light or DMM I would be more than happy to walk you through it over the phone and help you test the wires to confirm proper operation of every wire.

My car seems to not run as efficient when I'm playing music, the set-up includes the CarPC and Subs as we have previously spoke about. I'm running the stock SR alternator at the moment. [My second one..I think I fried the first one cause I heard a weird noise then my dash light went on and the car died once the battery died.]

Would upgrading to the 125AMP Quest alternator really help the situation in power draw and such? Would the 75AMP alt fuse have to be upgraded to properly run a higher amp alternator?

How much role does a battery play in this situation? I'm currently running the stock s13 battery branded by Exide. Would running anything like an Optima help in power performance? I don't have interest in running a capacitor.

Upgrading the alternator is the best thing you can do for higher current demands. The battery is for starting the car, so if it does that then it's doing its job. The only other thing a battery does is allow the use of accessories when the engine is off. Bigger batteries = more reserve time. Yes, you would want to upgrade the ALT fuse if you go to higher output alternator. Make sure your grounds are good on everything... the ground is the most important part of any circuit in the car.



how much are u asking?

How much am I asking for what? You quoted everything?! And which calipers are you talking about?

First: Broadfield: massive props for supporting the community. I have 2 questions:

Is there not an aftermarket fiberglass subwoofer enclosure made for a standard spare tire well (that would fit in an S13 hatch)? I can't believe that someone other than JL doesn't make a decent fiberglass enclosure. I can pay someone to custom build one but it seems like a waste, since this is such a common thing to do.

Second: This is a dual purpose daily/track car that I have tried to shave weight as much as possible. I do want to have a stereo though. What is the best performing light weight subwoofer on the market, in, say a 12" size? It's probably going to be a neodymium driver. I am already using Class D amps to cut down on weight, and plan on using the Morel Maximo components up front.

Thanks!

Well that's the problem, there is no such thing as a standard well. Every car is different. Some are really shallow, some are deep, some have a large center area where the spare mounts etc. It would be like asking why someone doesn't make one hood that fits every car... it's just not possible.

I'm not aware of any quality subs that are light weight. But there are so many brands out there these days that there is no way I can keep track of all of them. If you buy like a JL Audio WX, W0 or W1, they are pretty light just for the fact that they are entry level subwoofers... or any brand of entry level sub. The enclosure itself will be FAR heavier than the sub... the weight of the sub is the least of your concerns. Just remove the enclosure on track days!?!

[Broadfield]

What would be a good single din head unit that is capable of blue tooth stream of music from my phone?

Easy! The new Alpine CDE-133BT... I just got them in yesterday: $149 shipped.

[HIGHFIVEBETA]

What GPS tracking system would you best recommend for my S14? I'm not looking to spend much (Over $200) but would like to purchase one some time in the future. Florida S chassis are thieve's new hotcakes.

[SochBAT]

I hate having a "stereo" system in my car. I just want a minimal unit to play back via AUX cable. Half din would be cool, or something I could route elsewhere and be out of sight. Suggestions?

[lewisfk]

LOL the body kit

[yellowxhoodie]

I spilled some Pepsi on my radio and now one of the buttons sticks. (07 350Z OEM radio)
Is there anything you'd recommend to "fix" it without have to rip the whole thing apart?

I read rubbing alcohol online because it dissolves quick but ill take your advice first over something I read online.

[Broadfield]

What GPS tracking system would you best recommend for my S14? I'm not looking to spend much (Over $200) but would like to purchase one some time in the future. Florida S chassis are thieve's new hotcakes.

Viper VSM250, you can find it my my Viper thread. Please let me know if you have any questions or want to purchase it.

I hate having a "stereo" system in my car. I just want a minimal unit to play back via AUX cable. Half din would be cool, or something I could route elsewhere and be out of sight. Suggestions?

You would need an amplifier to drive all of the speakers. Then you could simply run an aux cable directly into the amp.

LOL the body kit

Yeah, I'm using the 20mm fenders from the kit.

I spilled some Pepsi on my radio and now one of the buttons sticks. (07 350Z OEM radio)
Is there anything you'd recommend to "fix" it without have to rip the whole thing apart?

I read rubbing alcohol online because it dissolves quick but ill take your advice first over something I read online.

Just use some electronics cleaner like Jiffy Bath. Make sure you read the instructions as it may not be safe on all plastics... but I have never had any issues. You may need to do several cleanings.

[Broadfield]

Hey Tony Bradfield, where do you buy the Bride fabric... and do you have any scraps you could give me if I pay for the shipping?

Sorry, I keep all of my scraps... maybe check with Damon. But regardless you can buy your own from DriveLine Motoring.

[KiLLeR2001]

Can you go over the step by step process of preparing the exterior body for paint? I would like to take my time and do all the body prep work myself. And when I'm content with my work, I will take it somewhere that can professionally paint it for me. A list of all the supplies and products that are needed would be most helpful. Thanks in advance!

[dkim1985]

do you have any recommendations on how to restore torn vinyl?
on my s13 door, the lining of the vinyl where the main cloth piece is has torn a bit.
i want to take off the cloth and just leave it black but in doing that, the torn part will definitely be visible..

[biggie]

I'm not really sure what could of gotten messed up by simply doing a trans swap. The alarm only taps into parking lights, door trigger, door lock wire, ignition, constant, starter wire interrupt and the siren under the hood... maybe trunk if that was hooked up. It just doesn't make sense assuming everything is wired just as it was before the swap. To me it sounds like something is wired incorrectly.... but that's hard for me to determine from across the country on a computer. If you have a test light or DMM I would be more than happy to walk you through it over the phone and help you test the wires to confirm proper operation of every wire.

It would have to be under the hood where the P/N was jumped or reverse lights were wired to work with the MT I guess, if there is nothing to the AT shifter.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm going to try a few avenues first. Hope to find someone local that installs them to do a little side work.

[Nicelyphe]

Is the Stock fuel sender able to be calibrated or anything? Ever since I installed a fuel tank into my hatch the first half of the tank goes like water, then the 2nd half takes awhile to get to "E" [On my gauge] Could this be fuel sender related?

[hpipro4]

this questions goes with painting plastic interior pieces.

are you using anykind of adhesion promoter on plastic interior pieces like the s13 cluster bezel? or just scuff and bomb with sem color coat?

whats that black glue your using on the s13 bezel?

thanks a bunch!

[Promise Land]

Taken from CamryOnBronze's thread...

Are you Doing anything different on an S14 door panel than what you have done on the S13 doors? I am not sure if I should try to peel the cloth off or go over it with new material since the S14 isn't concave.

Since you have 3 degrees, have you ever thought about pursuing anything full-time with any of them? I'm always looking for talent at our factory in MS. You'd be an interesting talent to have around.

[Broadfield]

Can you go over the step by step process of preparing the exterior body for paint? I would like to take my time and do all the body prep work myself. And when I'm content with my work, I will take it somewhere that can professionally paint it for me. A list of all the supplies and products that are needed would be most helpful. Thanks in advance!

Well... body work, paint work, interior upholstery work, engine work etc. are not my profession. So there will be more qualified people to ask I'm sure. However, everything I do I try to do at a professional level. So take what I say as a really good guide, but not the be-all-end-all of advice. I posted a nice little list on Damon's thread since so many people were asking. This was for the engine bay, but prep will be the same no matter what metal it is on the car. Quoted myself below:

"Seam sealer is basically the last thing you do before base coat.

Since a lot of people seem to be asking, in simplistic terms, it breaks down like this:

Make sure bay is completely de-greased.
Do all of your welding, grinding etc.
If you are not removing all of the paint in the bay, scuff the entire bay or area to be painted with a red scuff pad. This will insure that you don't miss any spots to be scuffed later.
Bare metal(if applying filler on bare metal, sand the metal with 80 grit or lower first) NOTE, a good rule of thumb: filler should never have a finished thickness of more than the thickness of a dime. If so, you need to do some more metal work before the filler. Obviously if you did grinding on the area, then it is ready for filler, as you most likely hit it with 36 grit or lower.
Apply filler on bare metal if needed. Filler should never go over paint, primer etc.... only bare metal.
Blend filler into surrounding metal by starting with 80 grit.
Once the filler is rough sanded, then you will start feathering in the surrounding metal/original paint if present by stepping through the various grits until you finish the entire bay with 220 grit. Use a red scuff pad for any areas that are ultra contoured or hard to get to.
So to say it again, the entire bay needs to be finished with 220grit/red scuff pad at this point.
Use etch primer on all bare metal.... use a couple coats or whatever the particular instructions recommend.
Sand the entire bay with 320 grit and red scuff pad. If you accidentally sand through the etch primer down to bare metal, then simply spot it in with etch primer and 320 it again. There should be NO bare metal at this point.
Now it's ready for primer... real primer out of a gun. It will be the same basic color as what your base coat color is going to be. You can also easily do this in your garage as primer can be sprayed at a very low pressure minimizing overspray.
Use a guide coat and sand the entire bay with 500 grit and grey scuff pad in the difficult areas. I wet sanded with 500 grit to prevent clogging of the paper.
On the areas that are not going to be seen, like on top of the cowl where the black plastic panel goes, just scuff it with the grey scuff pad.
NOTE: make sure everywhere that is going to get paint is scuffed with the grey pad. Otherwise paint may not stick properly.
Seam seal the areas that need it.
Use a grey scuff pad and scuff the seam sealer.
Now it's ready for the body shop if you are having them do the final sealer/base/clear.
If not you will use a paint sealer on the bay, then base and finally clear.


NOTE: I did not list ultra specifics like wiping down the bay with a cleaner before the main primer etc. Or proper sanding techniques and so on. Complete books are written on this type of thing, so I'm obviously not getting too detailed in this post. If you have any questions please let me know. My bay turned out phenomenal so I know these techniques are up to my standards. The bay will obviously need to be wiped down and tack ragged before the final paint also. So there are a lot of little things besides what I listed. But if you are having a body shop do the final paint work then they will take care of this."




do you have any recommendations on how to restore torn vinyl?
on my s13 door, the lining of the vinyl where the main cloth piece is has torn a bit.
i want to take off the cloth and just leave it black but in doing that, the torn part will definitely be visible..

Post a pic of it please.

It would have to be under the hood where the P/N was jumped or reverse lights were wired to work with the MT I guess, if there is nothing to the AT shifter.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm going to try a few avenues first. Hope to find someone local that installs them to do a little side work.

Good luck with it man!

Is the Stock fuel sender able to be calibrated or anything? Ever since I installed a fuel tank into my hatch the first half of the tank goes like water, then the 2nd half takes awhile to get to "E" [On my gauge] Could this be fuel sender related?

You will want to check the operation of the float in the tank.

this questions goes with painting plastic interior pieces.

are you using anykind of adhesion promoter on plastic interior pieces like the s13 cluster bezel? or just scuff and bomb with sem color coat?


SEM makes a plastic adhesion promoter, but I do not use it. I have had zero issues on the hundreds of plastic items I have painted. Keep in mind though, the SEM Color Coat line basically has a promoter built into it. Color Coat is engineered to be used on plastics etc. I do recommend using Maxx Solv or similar to wipe the plastic down. Then scuff with a gray scuff pad. After scuffing, blow it off really well with an air hose blow gun... then toss your color of choice on it.




whats that black glue your using on the s13 bezel?

thanks a bunch!

Yes, this is what I'm talking about... this thread is already becoming useful: Check post #21 in this thread!


Taken from CamryOnBronze's thread...

Are you Doing anything different on an S14 door panel than what you have done on the S13 doors? I am not sure if I should try to peel the cloth off or go over it with new material since the S14 isn't concave.

Since you have 3 degrees, have you ever thought about pursuing anything full-time with any of them? I'm always looking for talent at our factory in MS. You'd be an interesting talent to have around.

If the piece you are wrapping is not concave then it will be cake. You may even be able to get by with good spray adhesive out of a can. I have never wrapped the insert from an S14, but I'm pretty sure it's removable if I remember correctly. I think it may just be plastic welded to the door card. If that's the case, you grind the top of the weld off and remove the insert. You then wrap it, which will be really easy at this point. Then simply re-melt the insert back on. Feel free to post a picture of the back of the door card and I can let you know.

As for my degrees, I went to school to become an engineer. However, I realized that any sort of desk job might not challenge me in the way I like to be challenged. So I stuck with what I love... car audio. Low and behold I'm making clusters and whatnot now, in addition to the audio stuff I have always done. Why, do you have a janitor job open for me or something?:D But in all seriousness, I appreciate the offer. I actually saved your PM from Nico about it just in case I need/want a career change in the future. Out of curiosity, what type of position would you want me to fill?

[waxball88]

What kind of spray adhesive/psi/reduction do you use for upholstery?

[Broadfield]

What kind of spray adhesive/psi/reduction do you use for upholstery?

For stuff that is not concave or hanging upside down(like the headliner), I will use a really nice spray adhesive. This type of adhesive works great on the arm rest, glove box and so on. This stuff below works far better than the 3M stuff:

Stinger SAS Car Audio Vinyl / Carpet Install Spray Adhesive (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=sas+spray+adhesive&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=VWl&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1629&bih=920&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=191232853419584317&sa=X&ei=7oFET_mhO4WugweG56iQBA&ved=0CDsQ8wIwAA)

For concave, high heat, ultra strong bond I use a contact adhesive out of a spray gun. I use DAP Welwood Landau Top Adhesive:

1 Gal. DAP Weldwood HHR Contact Cement (http://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html)

I use an automotive grade spray gun with a 2.0 tip. This glue is the only thing that will hold year after year on the door card.

[Promise Land]

As for my degrees, I went to school to become an engineer. Out of curiosity, what type of position would you want me to fill?

Process Engineer supporting manufacturing of the vehicles we make here (Altima, Titan, Armada, NV, soon to be Frontier and Xterra, and another not named yet). I'm always looking for engineers that can put a car together well and have an eye for detail. If you change your mind, let me know. Job details are on Nissan USA - Jobs (http://www.nissan.jobs)

[turbo_dreams]

My apology if this has been covered,
Have you ever dealt with having a car shipped to you for work? If you don't mind p.m'ing me a price to do your cluster setup (same as the one on your car) along with setting up a fully functional jdm climate control unit from scratch. If you can add what parts I'd need to complete that conversion it'd really help in the quest of piecing that together on my end.

[Bubbles]

My car vibrates in the rear when I take off. Roughest when taking off and turning. Not too bad when taking off not turning. Does better if you drop the clutch a bit rather than easing out. Just changed the diff fluid and it's better but not great.

Driveshaft? Bushings/mounts? New differential?

[bejota180sx]

i know we talked about this earlier on the other thread but could you recommend me somethign for the near future... i dont really use any headunit like cd or radio on my build car, you said to just run a amplifier and speakers... what amp and speakers do you recommend for all around quality and a good price. doesnt have to be high class sounding since im not building a sound system, ill leave that for my daily vert...

and ps. im still frying my brain thinking about what to do with the gauges, i can't seem to make up my mind to what i want to ask for an exact price...

[whitepony22]

Ok I have two questions for you.

Speaker question:

I plan on putting an Alpine iDA-X305S in my S13 and maybe even into my STi as well. I have a 04 Chevy Avalanche with the factory Bose system in it and honestly have never heard a clearer, more well balanced setup. Whether low, or as loud as possible the sound is completely clear across all levels no matter what style of music you're listening to. With the Alpine, what speaker combination would you recommend to achieve a sound similar to this in either of my cars? I would prefer to do it without subs/amps as both cars are more on the track/performance side and would prefer not to add them. Would it be possible to have the sound without them simply with speakers/tweeters? Ideas/advice?

Second question is an interior question:

I plan on making a hidden setup for my S13's double din pocket to cover up my headunit/gauges so that the lights don't bother me at night. Do you have any idea where to get a generic flip up hinge such as that in a 350z's pop up compartment, the STi coin tray, anything like that where it's a simple push and it opens, and push down and it's closed.

Thanks.

[Big Zee]

I read through this Thread and did not see the answer to my question. So I will ask it.

What de-pinning tools do you use/recommend ? I would like to try my hand at cleaning up my wiring harness and want to do a proper job that looks neat and tidy with proper plugs.
Thanks in Advance!!

Dustin Z

[KiLLeR2001]

Toby, does Viper make a sensor or switch for the gas door? So that if an intruder opens the gas flap (while alarm is armed), it will trigger. I know I could get creative and try to customize one, but was wondering if Viper offers any such device.

And if they do make it, is it compatible with the Viper 5901?

[Broadfield]

My apology if this has been covered,
Have you ever dealt with having a car shipped to you for work? If you don't mind p.m'ing me a price to do your cluster setup (same as the one on your car) along with setting up a fully functional jdm climate control unit from scratch. If you can add what parts I'd need to complete that conversion it'd really help in the quest of piecing that together on my end.

I will work on any car as long as it is at my shop. I don't care if you drive it, ship it, float it etc. However, if the car is already some POS wiring nightmare, hack job, then I will decline it. When you say you want my cluster setup, what exactly do you mean? The gauges and HUD I had are no longer available. So just let me know exactly what you want in the cluster and I can shoot you a price. You can find pricing to get you started here:

http://zilvia.net/f/interior-exterior/402301-interior-dress-up-broadfield.html

My car vibrates in the rear when I take off. Roughest when taking off and turning. Not too bad when taking off not turning. Does better if you drop the clutch a bit rather than easing out. Just changed the diff fluid and it's better but not great.

Driveshaft? Bushings/mounts? New differential?

Sorry, not even remotely my line of work.

i know we talked about this earlier on the other thread but could you recommend me somethign for the near future... i dont really use any headunit like cd or radio on my build car, you said to just run a amplifier and speakers... what amp and speakers do you recommend for all around quality and a good price. doesnt have to be high class sounding since im not building a sound system, ill leave that for my daily vert...

and ps. im still frying my brain thinking about what to do with the gauges, i can't seem to make up my mind to what i want to ask for an exact price...

Yes, you can run a cable directly from your device to an amplifier. I would highly recommend the ARC XDi804 and Hybrid Audio Mirius. These would be the very best of entry level gear. Please PM or email me if you need pricing.

Ok I have two questions for you.

Speaker question:

I plan on putting an Alpine iDA-X305S in my S13 and maybe even into my STi as well. I have a 04 Chevy Avalanche with the factory Bose system in it and honestly have never heard a clearer, more well balanced setup. Whether low, or as loud as possible the sound is completely clear across all levels no matter what style of music you're listening to. With the Alpine, what speaker combination would you recommend to achieve a sound similar to this in either of my cars? I would prefer to do it without subs/amps as both cars are more on the track/performance side and would prefer not to add them. Would it be possible to have the sound without them simply with speakers/tweeters? Ideas/advice?

Second question is an interior question:

I plan on making a hidden setup for my S13's double din pocket to cover up my headunit/gauges so that the lights don't bother me at night. Do you have any idea where to get a generic flip up hinge such as that in a 350z's pop up compartment, the STi coin tray, anything like that where it's a simple push and it opens, and push down and it's closed.

Thanks.

As for speakers, I will always recommend Hybrid Audio over anything on the market. However, your Bose setup is amplified... you will not get the same volume or midbass impact without an aftermarket amplifier driving the Hybrids.

As for a hinge, that's easy. But I assume you want the latching device? You would probably need to fab something yourself. Some of those pockets with the "auto" door are somewhat complicated. You could maybe use a spring loaded magnet release setup!?!

I read through this Thread and did not see the answer to my question. So I will ask it.

What de-pinning tools do you use/recommend ? I would like to try my hand at cleaning up my wiring harness and want to do a proper job that looks neat and tidy with proper plugs.
Thanks in Advance!!

Dustin Z

I have multiple different sets from MAC, Matco and Snap-On. However, it's very rare I have to de-pin a plug in my line of work. I would ask Chase or Jeff Jordan.

Toby, does Viper make a sensor or switch for the gas door? So that if an intruder opens the gas flap (while alarm is armed), it will trigger. I know I could get creative and try to customize one, but was wondering if Viper offers any such device.

And if they do make it, is it compatible with the Viper 5901?

You would simply use a magnetic switch like one of these from DEI. PM or email me for pricing.

https://www.directeddealers.com/images/items/Large/8600.jpg

https://www.directeddealers.com/images/items/Large/8601.jpg

[hpipro4]

where can i get this carpet you use? thnx
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/1908/img1269vi.jpg (http://img267.imageshack.us/i/img1269vi.jpg/)

[Broadfield]

where can i get this carpet you use? thnx


From me! It runs $9/yd and is 52" wide.

[hpipro4]

From me! It runs $9/yd and is 52" wide.

how do you go by taking out the old carpeting on the panels? i have the hatch and dont like the brown carpeting.

thnx

[Broadfield]

how do you go by taking out the old carpeting on the panels? i have the hatch and dont like the brown carpeting.

thnx

You carpet over the old carpet.

[hpipro4]

You carpet over the old carpet.

can you go over the process? pls

do i need to scuff some of the old carpet out or just spray some glue and lay over the new carpet?

thnx

[blueshark123]

I have a viper alarm question I had bought a AU94tm Sensor for a viper alarm system that i never got to use on. I just got a newer viper 5701, Can this sensor be installed if so how since it doesn't plug into the auxiliary port of the brain. If it doesnt work what do you recommend to use instead of this? 509u?

[Big Zee]

Thank you!!

[Broadfield]

can you go over the process? pls

do i need to scuff some of the old carpet out or just spray some glue and lay over the new carpet?

thnx

You can simply use the can spray adhesive I posted here:

http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/435932-ask-broadfield-2.html#post4535729

You will want to spray both surfaces and let it set for a few minutes. You can then apply the new carpet right over the old stuff. I'm sure this will take a little practice. You will probably end up with wrinkles etc. It takes a little bit of skill to wrap the panels with no imperfections. However, you can always rip the carpet off and start over with a fresh piece if needed.



I have a viper alarm question I had bought a AU94tm Sensor for a viper alarm system that i never got to use on. I just got a newer viper 5701, Can this sensor be installed if so how since it doesn't plug into the auxiliary port of the brain. If it doesnt work what do you recommend to use instead of this? 509u?

You can just cut the plug off and hardwire to the Viper. It should of come with instructions!?! If not let me know and I'll figure out what goes to what.

The only bad thing about that sensor and the Viper 508D for that matter, is the fact that they may false with all of the RF interference there is these days. So now I really only use the 509U and have zero issues.

Thank you!!

No problem!

[!!chuy!!]

i have a question /questions and need oppinions... here it goes.(spelling sucks)

so ive had my rb25 s1 in my s13 for about 5 to 6 years now...and ive also had a welded diff for the longest time since i first swapped the motor.. and im simply tired of it hahahh ( people with welded diffs know what im talking about ahah) well i love that its locked when i dump the clutch and allows me to go sideways but i hate that its locked when im taking a simple 5 mph turn...all that jerkin need to come to an end lol, but ive wanted a real lsd for the longest time now.... and i dont wanna go thrue the hassle of getting a vlsd.... i have the money should i buy it?

heres were it gets tricky and i cant simply decide what i want to do with my money just yet.... i also want to tune my car.. its stock with just a fmic and exhaust... (and in mind of getting rid of my stuppid maf...i hate that thing..). ive had alot of fun with it threw the years but for a while now ive gotten use to it and i want to feel more power and slowly start adding things on to the motor...thats wy i want to get an engine management system...perferably AEM ems v2 along those lines of a fully programable system. what would you purchase... oppinions greatly appreciated.
i like going sideways but i also like the sound of the engine. so im not sure what i should do first...eventually they will both be purchase and equiped in the vehicle but i need a start somewere... what should i do..................

[blueshark123]

You can just cut the plug off and hardwire to the Viper. It should of come with instructions!?! If not let me know and I'll figure out what goes to what.

The only bad thing about that sensor and the Viper 508D for that matter, is the fact that they may false with all of the RF interference there is these days. So now I really only use the 509U and have zero issues.




Nope no instructions all it says is that you have to plug it into the auxilary port. Its 4 wires if you figure out how to make it work please let me know, in the mean time i will try to google up on it some more.

Thanks for the help

[TougeLove]

is an s2000 cluster plug and play possible for my 89 coupe. if so, ballpark figure for price? :)

[Broadfield]

i have a question /questions and need oppinions... here it goes.(spelling sucks)

so ive had my rb25 s1 in my s13 for about 5 to 6 years now...and ive also had a welded diff for the longest time since i first swapped the motor.. and im simply tired of it hahahh ( people with welded diffs know what im talking about ahah) well i love that its locked when i dump the clutch and allows me to go sideways but i hate that its locked when im taking a simple 5 mph turn...all that jerkin need to come to an end lol, but ive wanted a real lsd for the longest time now.... and i dont wanna go thrue the hassle of getting a vlsd.... i have the money should i buy it?

heres were it gets tricky and i cant simply decide what i want to do with my money just yet.... i also want to tune my car.. its stock with just a fmic and exhaust... (and in mind of getting rid of my stuppid maf...i hate that thing..). ive had alot of fun with it threw the years but for a while now ive gotten use to it and i want to feel more power and slowly start adding things on to the motor...thats wy i want to get an engine management system...perferably AEM ems v2 along those lines of a fully programable system. what would you purchase... oppinions greatly appreciated.
i like going sideways but i also like the sound of the engine. so im not sure what i should do first...eventually they will both be purchase and equiped in the vehicle but i need a start somewere... what should i do..................

If it was me I would take care of the diff first... I wouldn't be caught dead with a welded diff. This is assuming that your car is running fine without engine management though.

As for the engine management, I only have experience on the Nissans with the PowerFC. Which I had zero issues with.

Nope no instructions all it says is that you have to plug it into the auxilary port. Its 4 wires if you figure out how to make it work please let me know, in the mean time i will try to google up on it some more.

Thanks for the help

Ok, I'll start looking for wiring info on it.

is an s2000 cluster plug and play possible for my 89 coupe. if so, ballpark figure for price? :)

I don't do the wiring side of it for customers without the car in my possession.... I would need your car and cluster to test for proper operation etc.

[upsdude]

seriously considering a keyless ignition system. but don't want to just get a cheapy ebay kit. found this on google and have yet to really look around, but what do you think about this:

Advanced Keys - AK-104B Smart Key with Push Start System (http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK104B.html)

i'm a total noob to this stuff but it looks like a good system with the rfid cards and emergency back up cards too. any thoughts?

[Broadfield]

seriously considering a keyless ignition system. but don't want to just get a cheapy ebay kit. found this on google and have yet to really look around, but what do you think about this:

Advanced Keys - AK-104B Smart Key with Push Start System (http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK104B.html)

i'm a total noob to this stuff but it looks like a good system with the rfid cards and emergency back up cards too. any thoughts?

I have actually considered becoming a dealer for this company in the past... just to get one of their units in and check it out to see if it's legit or a hunk of crap. I have no experience with this kit or any other RFID kit for that matter. I obviously work around the OEM stuff everyday and have no complaints.

[Flush240]

I apologize if this has been posted already...

Could you provide me a list of the materials you used to prep the engine bay for paint and where did you get them from?

[Future240]

First off I'd like to offer many thanks for this thread. I have always admired your work.

So I figured it is time to get serious with my car audio. GSXRJJordan has given me a lot of good pointers to start with.

These fronts and highs
6.5" CDT Audio CL-62 PRO Classic Component Set CL62 NEW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-5-CDT-Audio-CL-62-PRO-Classic-Component-Set-CL62-NEW-/110626304466?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item19c1d771d2#ht_3916wt_1396)

Originally this amp
CADENCE AUDIO 300 WATT RMS 2 CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIER AMP | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CADENCE-AUDIO-300-WATT-RMS-2-CHANNEL-CAR-AMPLIFIER-AMP-/350509704661?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item519c01a5d5#ht_4540wt_1139)

I saw this one and thinking about it now.
XaH175.2 CADENCE ORANGE 2 CHANNEL AMP 700W SUB SUBWOOFERS SPEAKER AMPLIFIER NEW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/XaH175-2-CADENCE-ORANGE-2-CHANNEL-AMP-700W-SUB-SUBWOOFERS-SPEAKER-AMPLIFIER-NEW-/130589585914?pt=Car_Amplifiers&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e67bef1fa#ht_4421wt_1163)


Replacing the old pioneer with a newer one. Deciding between these three.
DEH-80PRS - <b>NEW!</b> - CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ, and Auto Time Alignment | Pioneer Electronics USA (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-80PRS)
DEH-P9400BH - <b>NEW!</b> - CD Receiver with Full-Dot LCD Display, Built-In Bluetooth®, and HD Radio™ Tuner | Pioneer Electronics USA (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-P9400BH)
DEH-P8400BH - <b>NEW!</b> - CD Receiver with Full-Dot LCD Display, MIXTRAX, Built-In Bluetooth®, and HD Radio™ Tuner | Pioneer Electronics USA (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-P8400BH)

Right now I have a Fi SSD 12" with an Autotek amp.

I want to switch those out with a JL W7 12" ( I really want a 13.5, but I don't think a 13.5 would fit an S14 trunk well) with MBQuart or Hifonics amp (does it really matter since they are both Maxxsonics products?)

HIFONICS HFi1500D 1500 W Car Mono Class D Amplifier/Amp | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIFONICS-HFi1500D-1500-W-Car-Mono-Class-D-Amplifier-Amp-/230689077519?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item35b623f90f#ht_3488wt_1396)

MB QUART ONX1.1500D MONO BLOCK CLASS D 1500W RMS MOSFET CAR SUB WOOFER AMPLIFIER | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MB-QUART-ONX1-1500D-MONO-BLOCK-CLASS-D-1500W-RMS-MOSFET-CAR-SUB-WOOFER-AMPLIFIER-/190642080330?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item2c63274a4a#ht_4142wt_1396)

As far as sound deadening after reading some stuff I think I will be using second skin all over, maybe some foam in the doors, and replacing the window seals all around.

May you give me your thoughts on it?

[Broadfield]

I apologize if this has been posted already...

Could you provide me a list of the materials you used to prep the engine bay for paint and where did you get them from?

Are you just repainting, shaving, filling, repairing? The list of items is going to vary greatly depending on what you are doing.

First off I'd like to offer many thanks for this thread. I have always admired your work.

May you give me your thoughts on it?

Thanks for the thanks! However, you are not going to get too much advice from me. This is where I draw the line since my business is high-end car audio. You asking me about all of this Ebay crap is like calling up the Ferrari dealership and asking them which Ford you should buy. Keep in mind, I HATE Ebay... it has ruined the car audio industry. A bunch of nobody's selling car audio for next to nothing out of a warehouse. They are not authorized and only know the product from what the description says on the box. So please understand where I am coming from and have enough respect for my knowledge and service to not ask me about audio product that I don't sell... it would be a conflict in interest.

Funny story: I had a guy come in my store last year and literally asked me what speakers I would recommend so he could go buy them off the internet. I'm thinking to myself, REALLY you just asked me that!?! I quite frankly told him to ask the internet site he was buying them off of. I think he finally got the picture.

If you would like pricing on stuff that I would recommend from my shop then I would be more than happy to help you out;). But I will tell you up front that I don't have anything as cheap as what you are looking at for the most part.... but you do get what you pay for.

[Flush240]

Are you just repainting, shaving, filling, repairing? The list of items is going to vary greatly depending on what you are doing.

actually i'm doing all the things you mentioned.

[DreamN]

Any advice on removing fine scratches and imperfections from the gauge cluster clear plastic cover?

[Future240]

I understand, those links I posted are not eBay products. Those are products sold on eBay. I would never buy buy eBay knock offs.

I was under the impression that the stuff I posted is high quality.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/cl_series.htm
http://www.maxxsonics.com/
http://www.cadencesound.com/categories/Amplifiers/



My next question is then what defines high quality car audio? Specially what should one look for when shopping for high quality audio and how to tell the difference between high quality and bottom barrel.

[dkim1985]

do you have any recommendations on how to restore torn vinyl?
on my s13 door, the lining of the vinyl where the main cloth piece is has torn a bit.
i want to take off the cloth and just leave it black but in doing that, the torn part will definitely be visible..

Post a pic of it please.
http://zilvia.net/f/attachment.php?attachmentid=34450&stc=1&d=1330372669
If you see where the arrow is pointing, the vinyl is 'curving' upward and that little space where the fabric starts is starting to tear the vinyl along that line. I also have another set of doors that have the same problem.

[Broadfield]

actually i'm doing all the things you mentioned.

You will need:

Etch primer
Maybe weld-thru primer
Various grits of sandpaper: 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, 500
Air sander with 36, 50 grit
Electric grinder with flapper wheel sanding disc
Rage Gold filler
Rage Metal Glaze
Seam Sealer
Filler spreaders
Maxx Solv
3M red scuff pads
3M grey scuff pads
3M guide coat or similar

I'm sure I'm forgetting something. If you have any questions as you are doing it, check out my post in this thread or shoot me a PM.

http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/435932-ask-broadfield-2.html#post4535485


Any advice on removing fine scratches and imperfections from the gauge cluster clear plastic cover?

Wet sand it then polish it with automotive polish. You will need to use various grits of sandpaper depending on how deep your scratches are. I usually use 1200, 1500 then finish with 2000. I then use four stages of polish from Pinnacle. I sand and polish both the inside and outside. If 1200 grit doesn't remove your scratches then you will need to start with a harsher grit and still end up at 2000.

I understand, those links I posted are not eBay products. Those are products sold on eBay. I would never buy buy eBay knock offs.

I was under the impression that the stuff I posted is high quality.
CL Series (http://www.cdtaudio.com/cl_series.htm)
MAXXSONICS HIFONICS CRUNCH AUTOTEK MB QUART (http://www.maxxsonics.com/)
Amplifiers - Cadence Sound Store (http://www.cadencesound.com/categories/Amplifiers/)



My next question is then what defines high quality car audio? Specially what should one look for when shopping for high quality audio and how to tell the difference between high quality and bottom barrel.

I guess I should of said crappy Ebay sellers who are not authorized to sell the product. However, most of those brands you listed may actually encourage internet sales. All your legitimate big name brands do not allow traditional internet sales... shopping cart websites etc. Since I do not sell from a traditional site, I get away with it. It's impossible to buy something from me with out direct contact with me first. That way I can make sure my customers are getting the correct product for their needs before they purchase it.

As for being able to tell the difference between crap and good... the price. One of those amplifiers was like $119 or something for a "700" watt amplifier. Christ, I can't even buy a pair of jeans for that cheap. Anything that cheap is for sure made in China, most likely designed in China and has a cookie cutter circuit board copied from some other cheap Chinese made amplifier. It won't put out 700 watts because it goes against the laws of electricity to be able to do that on a 40 amp fuse. It would need 17.5 volts at 40 amps to produce 700 watts. An amplifier that cheap will typically have minimal capacitance, cheap power supply, poor signal-to-noise ratio, poor dampening factor, poor ground loop noise isolation etc.

CDT is fine, definitely not as good as Hybrid Audio, but nothing is. MB Quart used to be really good when I started my career.... 20 years ago. It's total cheap crap now unfortunately. A 1500 watt mono block for $164 makes me laugh. I can't believe it's possible to make an amplifier that cheap.


If you see where the arrow is pointing, the vinyl is 'curving' upward and that little space where the fabric starts is starting to tear the vinyl along that line. I also have another set of doors that have the same problem.

The only way to fix that is to remove the tweed and vinyl from the insert, glue the vinyl down where it's lifting, then reupholster the insert with new material.

[upsdude]

I have actually considered becoming a dealer for this company in the past... just to get one of their units in and check it out to see if it's legit or a hunk of crap. I have no experience with this kit or any other RFID kit for that matter. I obviously work around the OEM stuff everyday and have no complaints.



well i guess i could try it and do a review lol

[Future240]

What are your thoughts on signal processors and capacitors?

[Broadfield]

well i guess i could try it and do a review lol

Go for it!:D

What are your thoughts on signal processors and capacitors?

I don't use capacitors too often... most customers don't fork over the dough. And believe it or not there is a big difference from one brand to the next. If you buy a $50 capacitor it isn't going to do a damn thing for you. Check this out:

Do Capacitors Do Anything - The Truth About Car Audio Capacitors - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPTlfwgPGyM)

As for signal processing, this is totally up to you. It's designed to supplement any deficiencies you have in your staging and frequency response. I usually like to keep it simple so I usually forgo processors. I only use quality speakers that will accurately reproduce the notes as they were intended in the original recording. Marry a good set of speakers with a decent amplifier(s) and that will take you a long ways. Now if I competed on a national level then that would change things... I would have a pretty mean processor.

[milk_with_pulp]

Toby,

Upgrading 1998 240sx Ground/Power. AKA Big 3 Upgrade.
Currently the wires are stock and have read information about upgrading Alternator Wire, Chassis Ground, Engine Block Ground to improve audio performance.


What type of Battery Terminals to use for the wire
What type of cable/wire
What gauge do you suggest
What points would you recommend to upgrade

Looking for a distributor that would sell terminals that are worth while, I see many cheap terminals and some which are extremely expensive to connect the wires to a battery, most seem to be a rip off where people buy for the hype.

From my few years in wiring homes, I know of gauges for wiring, curious though as I see some recommending 2 gauge/ 0 gauge for these grounding points. The wire is extremely stiff and was wondering what you recommend.

Also, would ask for any suggestions on antennas for a Nissan to replace the long antennas, it was a fixed antenna non powered and would like something small, less of an eyesore.

Any help and information is appreciated and do you suggest any forums for car audio that you frequently visit or read for information?

[Broadfield]

Toby,

Upgrading 1998 240sx Ground/Power. AKA Big 3 Upgrade.
Currently the wires are stock and have read information about upgrading Alternator Wire, Chassis Ground, Engine Block Ground to improve audio performance.


What type of Battery Terminals to use for the wire
What type of cable/wire
What gauge do you suggest
What points would you recommend to upgrade

Looking for a distributor that would sell terminals that are worth while, I see many cheap terminals and some which are extremely expensive to connect the wires to a battery, most seem to be a rip off where people buy for the hype.

From my few years in wiring homes, I know of gauges for wiring, curious though as I see some recommending 2 gauge/ 0 gauge for these grounding points. The wire is extremely stiff and was wondering what you recommend.

Also, would ask for any suggestions on antennas for a Nissan to replace the long antennas, it was a fixed antenna non powered and would like something small, less of an eyesore.

Any help and information is appreciated and do you suggest any forums for car audio that you frequently visit or read for information?

I use IXOS for my really nice wiring/connector product and also some Stinger product. There is a HUGE difference quality of wire. Most of the car audio power cable out there is not solid copper. And anything that is cheap in price probably uses the Chinese system for rating the gauge. I have some 4 gauge Walmart/Ebay brand power wire at the shop that is smaller than my IXOS 8 gauge wire I sell. Even IXOS's GT series power cable is twice the weight of their lower line power wire... same length, same gauge, same strand count. One is solid copper and one is copper clad. So for that very reason the XIOS 100 series 4 gauge for example will support 650 watts. While their 400 series 4 gauge will support 1400 watts... there's that big of a difference. I would hate to even guess what the Ebay 4 gauge will support:ugh:

As for the wire being flexible are you talking about home wire? Because you absolutely cannot use AC power wire for 12 volts. For what it's worth my IXOS 4 gauge you can take and wrap around your pinky.

So you will want to upgrade the power cable from your alternator to the battery. Gauge will depend on what gauge you are running from the battery to the amplifier(s). If you are running 1/0 gauge to the amplifier(s) then you obviously want to run at least that big from the alternator to the battery. Same with ground... upgrade the battery ground to the chassis and block ground to the chassis.

As for the antenna, any length other than the standard 32"(which is 1/4 of a wavelength) will decrease reception.

[killer skittle]

How has the SEM paint/dye you used on interior pieces help up? How long have you used it? I would LOVE to redo my dash, center, and door panels with that stuff. Just think a year or two in the sun and it would be worse off than it is now. Do you just use wax/grease remover then spray a coat on?

[chiboy002]

hey toby
i'll give you a call tomorrow to go over some stuff if thats ok but for now, and i'll prolly forget this post ever posted lol, but

what do you use for the 200mL applicator gun for the 3M seam sealer?
i derped a little bit and forgot i needed an applicator gun before i bought it, and its like 200 god damn dollars. Any recommendations on something cheaper? This is probably the only time i'll ever use it, so don't want to drop that much on it.

[Broadfield]

How has the SEM paint/dye you used on interior pieces help up? How long have you used it? I would LOVE to redo my dash, center, and door panels with that stuff. Just think a year or two in the sun and it would be worse off than it is now. Do you just use wax/grease remover then spray a coat on?

I have never had any issues with it. However, I have never painted a dash with it or any other large plastic interior trim... although the SEM Color Coat is designed for exactly that. I'm usually painting smaller interior pieces that I have modified/fabricated. Like I said though, no issues at all. I have had pieces painted in my car for over 5 years. I would recommend cleaning the area with a Maxx Solv or similar. Scuff it with a grey 3M scuff pad, then paint.

hey toby
i'll give you a call tomorrow to go over some stuff if thats ok but for now, and i'll prolly forget this post ever posted lol, but

what do you use for the 200mL applicator gun for the 3M seam sealer?
i derped a little bit and forgot i needed an applicator gun before i bought it, and its like 200 god damn dollars. Any recommendations on something cheaper? This is probably the only time i'll ever use it, so don't want to drop that much on it.

I posted a picture of it with the part # on it in this thread. You should be able to find it much cheaper online. That type of dispenser is an industry standard though, so it doesn't have to be the 3M gun.

Edit: doesn't get much better than this: http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=MMM+8571

[slim]

so i am in the process of aquiring an 06-07 sti. want to do the same thing u did to this one. would you be able to do this without the car, just the gauge and vent? or is it nessecary to test fit during the process? if this is possible ill send you a pm for a quote after i actually pick one up. thanks in advance. love your work always impressive!!!

http://images59.fotki.com/v683/photos/2/47612/10113873/IMG_6013-vi.jpg

[chiboy002]

I posted a picture of it with the part # on it in this thread. You should be able to find it much cheaper online. That type of dispenser is an industry standard though, so it doesn't have to be the 3M gun.

Edit: doesn't get much better than this: Item Detail (http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=MMM+8571)

damn thats a good deal
Thanks Toby!

[titopr06]

hey toby,

is the process of upholstering the s14 door cards the same as the s13? Is it the same material?

thanks!

[Seraphim38]

Have you ever used a surface mount universal pod to mount on the kick panels of a 240sx? Maybe for mounting a 5 1/4 or 4" mid for added midrange / sound stage? It would have to be a woofer that is not too deep, as I don't really want to relocate my ECU and other stuff housed behind the kick panels

[Broadfield]

so i am in the process of aquiring an 06-07 sti. want to do the same thing u did to this one. would you be able to do this without the car, just the gauge and vent? or is it nessecary to test fit during the process? if this is possible ill send you a pm for a quote after i actually pick one up. thanks in advance. love your work always impressive!!!


I would need the car unfortunately. It's a VERY tight fit and I would need to make sure the gauge is perfectly straight up and down with the silver trim ring... which I can only do by setting it in the car for a test fit and then adjust accordingly.

damn thats a good deal
Thanks Toby!

You know I got your back!

hey toby,

is the process of upholstering the s14 door cards the same as the s13? Is it the same material?

thanks!

Definitely not, but I have never done an S14 card. I do know the S14 cards are cake to do though.

Have you ever used a surface mount universal pod to mount on the kick panels of a 240sx? Maybe for mounting a 5 1/4 or 4" mid for added midrange / sound stage? It would have to be a woofer that is not too deep, as I don't really want to relocate my ECU and other stuff housed behind the kick panels

No, I have never used universal pods. That would go against everything I strive for. I always custom fiberglass kicks for whatever the car may be. Here is a set I did for my demo car in the store. I also made custom press fit, flush, black grill cloth covered grills that are not pictured. I actually made these kicks 16 years ago. I just had them out of the car because I put a fresh set of Hybrid Audio Legatia speakers in them. In the kick is a Legatia 4" and Legatia tweeter. The door houses the Legatia 7.1" midbass driver.

http://images18.fotki.com/v61/photos/2/47612/9119723/IMG_8556-vi.jpg

http://images58.fotki.com/v154/photos/2/47612/9119723/IMG_8557-vi.jpg

http://images107.fotki.com/v67/photos/2/47612/9119723/IMG_8559-vi.jpg

http://images9.fotki.com/v248/photos/2/47612/9119723/IMG_8565-vi.jpg

[roninwon]

what paint do you use to finish your products?

[Broadfield]

what paint do you use to finish your products?

SEM Color Coat

[whiterps13]

Post more pics of demo car. It is my dream car. Someday....

[Broadfield]

Post more pics of demo car. It is my dream car. Someday....

LOL, God I hate that thing! At least it's turbo charged:goyou:

[energ]

a while back i got a quote from you on making me a cluster, but since i have been out of work and decided to try it myself since i've got some fiberglass experience my self..

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/energdj/IMG_0326.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/energdj/IMG_0339.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/energdj/IMG_0343.jpg

so i got most of it down the right way i think, but my gauges sit too far out to allow the clear plastic cover to go over the gauges.. lol what do you normally do when making these clusters?
i gutted out the insides, used the original top half and fiberglassed it to be a blank canvas, smoothed it, and hole-sawed my gauge holes..

now i've seen you use auto meter gauges and get the glass on, I'm just wondering if i did something wrong here?

[Broadfield]

That's a good start man! Your process is definitely completely different than what I do. But as long as it turns out good then that's all that matters.

As for the gauges, I flush all of my gauges in. For one it looks better. Second of all, it allows the larger bezel'd gauges to fit under the glass. The Autometers have huge bezels.

I use 3/4" material for my gauge plates then router the outside edge so it will sit perfectly between the front(black) and back(white) halves of the cluster. This then allows me to flush the gauges in to whatever depth I want, using a rabbet bit on a router, after I drill press the gauge holes.

If you look real close you can tell the gauges are flushed in:

http://images58.fotki.com/v132/photos/2/47612/10154490/IMG_6235-vi.jpg

This is a crappy cell pic of an S14 cluster I'm doing right now, but this will give you a good idea of how I do it. It is also getting Autometers. For reference the 2 larger gauges are sunk in 1/2".

http://images15.fotki.com/v587/photos/2/47612/10446734/IMAG0220-vi.jpg

[energ]

damn that makes a little more sense, now that i see the process.. is the final product the mdf board covered with the SEM texture coat or is that a sheet of abs plastic ?

i probably should have asked these questions before i started! ha I'm still undecided though it doesn't look bad without the glass so i may leave it off. i also picked up a few green turn signal indicators and a check engine light to throw in there its not completed yet

thanks for the reply and sharing some of your tips

[anfitch2k5]

your work is amazing. just my $.02

[Broadfield]

damn that makes a little more sense, now that i see the process.. is the final product the mdf board covered with the SEM texture coat or is that a sheet of abs plastic ?

thanks for the reply and sharing some of your tips

Yes, the final product is the MDF with a texture. I have never used ABS plastic in my clusters. I do not use SEM texture coat anymore though. I found something else that is WAY, WAY, WAY easier to yield perfectly consistent results.... and it doesn't even require a finish coat of paint like the texture coat does. It comes in a rich satin black. But I can't tell you what the product is... I'm not ready to give up all of my secrets quite yet. However, I know I have mentioned what it is a couple times if you search hard enough;) The cluster with the white Autometer gauges is an example of the new texture product.

your work is amazing. just my $.02

Thanks!

[Nismo240driftSX]

Toby, since searching isn't really giving me too many answers (and that my car is in storage right now so I can't really do it myself haha), can 52mm gauges fit in the din below the radio in an S13? If so, have you made a face plate and an angled setup for a din like you do for the center vent? I was trying to do something other than a pillar pod but at the same time not drill or remove anything from my dash since its mint.

[killer skittle]

If it has already been covered don't bother answering. How do you get the texture on the trim pieces you modify/add abs too?

[KiLLeR2001]

Do you know of any good suede or suede-like material that can be used to cover an S13 dash? Looking for something that looks sleek and is proven against the elements (direct sunlight). Also want to follow up and use the same material for the door panels and headliner as well.

[Broadfield]

Toby, since searching isn't really giving me too many answers (and that my car is in storage right now so I can't really do it myself haha), can 52mm gauges fit in the din below the radio in an S13? If so, have you made a face plate and an angled setup for a din like you do for the center vent? I was trying to do something other than a pillar pod but at the same time not drill or remove anything from my dash since its mint.

http://zilvia.net/f/interior-exterior/387088-s13-center-vent-angled-triple-52mm-gauge-plates-4.html#post4506685

If it has already been covered don't bother answering. How do you get the texture on the trim pieces you modify/add abs too?

2 posts back;)


Do you know of any good suede or suede-like material that can be used to cover an S13 dash? Looking for something that looks sleek and is proven against the elements (direct sunlight). Also want to follow up and use the same material for the door panels and headliner as well.

Not really, but I'm not an upholstery shop. Regardless of what everyone thinks, I do not really do interior work, nor do I do uhpolstry work. I did my own yes, but I have never upholstered anything but my own vehicle. I fabricate pieces to compliment the interior, but that's about it. I would suggest to go into your local upholstery shop that does street rods etc and see what they recommend.

[59bhp]

. However, I know I have mentioned what it is a couple times if you search hard enough;)Thanks!

jeez you weren't kidding lol

[kouki-gymkhana]

Hey Toby, thanks for giving back to the community with this open forum. You are an immense asset to zilvia and I just wanted to thank you again.

I have a quick question: With all of the accessories I have running on my car (HID ballasts, e-fans, fan controller, etc.) my (+) terminal on the battery looks like a gang bang gone wrong. What power distribution block (or similar device) would you recommend I use to clean things up? I would like to move the battery to the trunk and use a safe, high quality distribution block that can handle 5+ inputs.

Thanks!
PS: Make sure you keep that aero bumper I sold you safe!

[killer skittle]

If it has already been covered don't bother answering. How do you get the texture on the trim pieces you modify/add abs too?

SEM spray texture.....found it!

[Broadfield]

Hey Toby, thanks for giving back to the community with this open forum. You are an immense asset to zilvia and I just wanted to thank you again.

I have a quick question: With all of the accessories I have running on my car (HID ballasts, e-fans, fan controller, etc.) my (+) terminal on the battery looks like a gang bang gone wrong. What power distribution block (or similar device) would you recommend I use to clean things up? I would like to move the battery to the trunk and use a safe, high quality distribution block that can handle 5+ inputs.

Thanks!
PS: Make sure you keep that aero bumper I sold you safe!

Thanks man, I appreciate the support! I can get you anything you want from:

Car Audio and Video Equipment (http://www.ixosonline.com/mobile_audio.html)

or

Stinger Electronics | Products (http://stingerelectronics.com/products.aspx)

Just look through there and see if there is anything you need a price on or if you have any questions on any of the product.

SEM spray texture.....found it!

:confused: You might want to reread post # 105.

[killer skittle]

Thanks man, I appreciate the support! I can get you anything you want from:

Car Audio and Video Equipment (http://www.ixosonline.com/mobile_audio.html)

or

Stinger Electronics | Products (http://stingerelectronics.com/products.aspx)

Just look through there and see if there is anything you need a price on or if you have any questions on any of the product.



:confused: You might want to reread post # 105.


You won't give up your secret yet so all I have to go on is the sem texture spray...im willing to give it a try if you have used it in the past.
I have read through just about everything you have posted...ever. Even on your blog people have asked about the texture, you saying nothing about it. I get it, if your good at something don't do it for free. I'll try a couple things to see what works.
Looking through your albums, you don't get the exact lined Nissan oem texture you have the splotchy texture from like the sem spray. It blends well enough to where you can only tell close up...not good enough for me. I've seen a couple of vinyl repair places that can match the texture exactly and they do it by like cloning the texture from the existing piece some how?? I have found other places that sell the oem Nissan, acura, Lexus...etc patterned pads that you can use also.
Thanks

[Broadfield]

You won't give up your secret yet so all I have to go on is the sem texture spray...im willing to give it a try if you have used it in the past.
I have read through just about everything you have posted...ever. Even on your blog people have asked about the texture, you saying nothing about it. I get it, if your good at something don't do it for free. I'll try a couple things to see what works.
Looking through your albums, you don't get the exact lined Nissan oem texture you have the splotchy texture from like the sem spray. It blends well enough to where you can only tell close up...not good enough for me. I've seen a couple of vinyl repair places that can match the texture exactly and they do it by like cloning the texture from the existing piece some how?? I have found other places that sell the oem Nissan, acura, Lexus...etc patterned pads that you can use also.
Thanks

Well, you worked hard enough.... SEM Chip Guard.

As for the texture not matching the OEM, I don't want it to match. The dash board for example has the texture you are talking about. If I was repairing the dashboard then that is one thing. But I'm usually modifying/fabricating pieces that never had a texture to begin with. You always want a little contrast of some sort. So on the S13, all of the trim panels are smooth, whereas the dash is textured. So when I lay on my final finish, I either finish it in a smooth finish or a textured finish... it's up to the customer. On the S14, the trim panels have a texture on them(HVAC trim, radio trim and shifter trim). So since these three pieces come in contact with each other, I simply refinish all three pieces.... no matter if it's textured or smooth. If you tried to only do one and match it, then it's not going to match PERFECT. The color isn't going to be exact and/or the texture may not be exact, no matter what method is used. So by simply refinishing all three pieces you can rest assured they will all match each other.... which is what really matters.

[slydin240sx]

Toby, do you know if it's possible to wire the s13 DCC in a s14? They look so much better than the s14 ones.

[killer skittle]

Toby, do you know if it's possible to wire the s13 DCC in a s14? They look so much better than the s14 ones.

Lol I just asked this in another thread. But wiring is his specialty, if anyone can do it he can.

[slydin240sx]

Lol I just asked this in another thread. But wiring is his specialty, if anyone can do it he can.

I know you did that's why I asked it here lol

[killer skittle]

I know you did that's why I asked it here lol

I've been comparing the s13 & s14 fsm's, and the only differences I can think of are the ways that the motors control the temperature, and the way the air comes out the vents.

Because all the sensors are external from the main wiring harness. I.e. in cabin temp sensor, sun load sensor, ambient outside temp sensor...etc. the only thing that is really hardwired to the harness is the fan speed, air temperature motor, button lighting, acc, constant 12v, ground, defrost...maybe more.

All this is recently learned so it might not be accurate.

[Broadfield]

Toby, do you know if it's possible to wire the s13 DCC in a s14? They look so much better than the s14 ones.

Sorry, I have no idea... never looked into it.

Lol I just asked this in another thread. But wiring is his specialty, if anyone can do it he can.

You do realize I gave up my secret a couple posts back.... even free of charge:)

[sickstatus]

When are the new alpine units suppose to come in?

[Broadfield]

When are the new alpine units suppose to come in?

They will be trickling in throughout the next three months. I already have the CDE-133BT, CDE-136BT and the CDE-134HD in stock. I was waiting for a couple more models to be released before I started a new vendor for sale thread. But feel free to PM if you want to buy one of those models.

[killer skittle]

Sorry, I have no idea... never looked into it.



You do realize I gave up my secret a couple posts back.... even free of charge:)


Yes I do and for that I thank you. Secret secrets are no fun unless they are for everyone.

[59bhp]

You do realize I gave up my secret a couple posts back.... even free of charge:)

lol i spent about 3 hours searching for it (found it aswell), should of just waited :D

for the wears wally fans out there it was on the blog in an answer to a comment on one of the s13 gauge clusters :P

[titopr06]

toby
in your engine bay you used normal "bondo" over the bare metal areas correct?
what did you use or recommend using over areas that still have paint but are just sanded down?

thanks.

[Broadfield]

lol i spent about 3 hours searching for it (found it aswell), should of just waited :D

for the wears wally fans out there it was on the blog in an answer to a comment on one of the s13 gauge clusters :P

I'm impressed!... hell, I didn't even know where I posted it. For that I will give you 20% off any one single item I carry if you ever need to buy something from me. Custom work does not apply though.

toby
in your engine bay you used normal "bondo" over the bare metal areas correct?
what did you use or recommend using over areas that still have paint but are just sanded down?

thanks.

Yes, I used filler over the bare metal.

You don't need anything over the areas that are painted. You would simply primer it with everything else.

Or do you have a dent or something that you need to fill? If so then you would want to sand the area down to bare metal then apply the filler to bare metal.

[titopr06]

thanks toby.

its a small dent that i need to fill. ill just sand down to metal and go from there.

[Broadfield]

thanks toby.

its a small dent that i need to fill. ill just sand down to metal and go from there.

Yep, just remember you don't want filler touching paint. So once you sand down the filler you should have a ring of bare metal around the filler. Once your filler, metal and original paint are all feathered together up to 320 grit, you will apply etch primer to the bare metal. It's obviously ok to get the etch primer onto the filler and surrounding original paint. Just make sure any surface that the etch primer goes onto is prepped up to 320 grit and/or red scuff pad.

[scottie]

I have a question for you Mr Braofield.......







What is your opinion of this?
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m99/scotheocelot/9e73adc7.jpg

[Broadfield]

I have a question for you Mr Braofield.......

What is your opinion of this?


Hey Scott, I'm not sure if you meant to spell my last name wrong, but it's hilarious of you did. Kyle, Damon and I get a laugh out of how many people spell my name wrong and get my first name wrong to-boot. So in emails between us we are always purposely spelling my name wrong: Tony Bradford, Toby Bradfield, Toby Bordfeild, Mr Braofield.... you get the idea;)

So on to your question,

I'm actually going to place a lot of importance on how the intake setup appears visually in my bay. I think the intake can make or break the bay's overall vibe. It's actually the only reason I went with a tucked radiator... gives me around 2-3 more inches of forward clearance for the intake. I will most likely do something simple like what you have just to get the car on the street and enjoy it hopefully this year. I will then switch it over to a full XRP clamshell setup at the throttle body.... because why not! I also have another idea up my sleeve to go along with the clamshell portion of it... but I don't want to indulge into that until I can test fit and see what it looks like.

But yeah, I think what you got going looks perfectly acceptable for what you have to work with. It's not like you really have many options with that monster radiator:


Quality silicone elbow... Check!
Mandrel bent aluminum piping... Check!
T-bolts... Check!

You are good to go.

[lewisfk]

When you were running your gt30 turbo what mods if any did you do to the turbo. I remember u telling me that you ran an Aem wide band taped it to the top of the manifold, is this correct.

Hey i totaly forgot, how much for some top mount turbo lines?

[scottie]

Lol sorry Toby. Damn iPad autocorrects to the dumbest words. Apparently it didn't like your name and I didn't spell check. I was more or less wondering if you liked the valve cover color of choice with the scheme of the car.

I would ultimately love to tube the front end, move radiator forward and lower and run a straight intake over the radiator. You gain the most power and I think they look awesome. Clamshell intake? I didn't know they came in 4"! I would like to do something like that on my next "version".

[qwerth]

I'm really not familiar with alarms so i thought i would come here and ask if this is worth it

its a some random alarm system that a local place that has for 69 installed

i found it online for around 40 by itself

Car Stereo Installation in Wilmington California Monster Car Stereo. (http://monsterscarstereo.com/)


or what are some better options for car security?

i live in socal and too many cars are being reported stolen

[Broadfield]

When you were running your gt30 turbo what mods if any did you do to the turbo. I remember u telling me that you ran an Aem wide band taped it to the top of the manifold, is this correct.

Hey i totaly forgot, how much for some top mount turbo lines?

I did didn't do any mods except for polish the compressor housing. I'm not sure what you are referring to on the whole AEM thing!?! The only thing I had tapped into the manifold was an EGT probe for my Defi gauge.

As for turbo lines, do you mean you want to assemble them yourself from XRP product? You would need to give me a list of XRP fittings you want(part #'s), the hose you want... type, size and length(part #'s) and then I can shoot you a quote.

Lol sorry Toby. Damn iPad autocorrects to the dumbest words. Apparently it didn't like your name and I didn't spell check. I was more or less wondering if you liked the valve cover color of choice with the scheme of the car.

I would ultimately love to tube the front end, move radiator forward and lower and run a straight intake over the radiator. You gain the most power and I think they look awesome. Clamshell intake? I didn't know they came in 4"! I would like to do something like that on my next "version".

I got you... I saw you had already posted up the valve covers on some other thread or maybe your build thread a week or so ago, so I assumed you were referring to the intake since that's the first I have seen of it. Yes, color scheme looks good! I'm glad you took my advice on the white valve covers and no green accents. Like I have said before, white is always a color choice for my covers... although I have a killer color idea on the back burner.

Yes, XRP makes the clamshell in the following: -8, 10, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 48, 56 and 64.

[Broadfield]

I'm really not familiar with alarms so i thought i would come here and ask if this is worth it

its a some random alarm system that a local place that has for 69 installed

i found it online for around 40 by itself

Car Stereo Installation in Wilmington California Monster Car Stereo. (http://monsterscarstereo.com/)


or what are some better options for car security?

i live in socal and too many cars are being reported stolen


Wow, that's some really cheap garbage. There's just no way they can do that for $69 installed even with how cheap the unit is. There has to be some sort of catch or hidden charges. Or they are just banking on you being a return customer. It looks like they mostly carry REALLY cheap no name brands. However, I see in one of their pictures they have some Viper product. Call them up and ask how much a Viper 3303V is and how much to install it in your car. Get a final price out the door. Places like this and even Best Buy like to give you a "basic" install price when you ask how much for install. Of course the basic install doesn't really apply to any vehicles out there so there's always additional/hidden charges when you come to pick the vehicle up. Do they have a lifetime warranty on their install? Ask as many questions as possible. Don't get caught up in if their installers are MECP certified... doesn't mean anything in the end. I have seen plenty of MECP certified installers that were horrible and plenty of non-MECP certified installers that were masters at their job. For what it's worth, I am not MECP certified.

Otherwise I'm going to highly recommend buying a product from me!

[qwerth]

Wow, that's some really cheap garbage. There's just no way they can do that for $69 installed even with how cheap the unit is. There has to be some sort of catch or hidden charges. Or they are just banking on you being a return customer. It looks like they mostly carry REALLY cheap no name brands. However, I see in one of their pictures they have some Viper product. Call them up and ask how much a Viper 3303V is and how much to install it in your car. Get a final price out the door. Places like this and even Best Buy like to give you a "basic" install price when you ask how much for install. Of course the basic install doesn't really apply to any vehicles out there so there's always additional/hidden charges when you come to pick the vehicle up. Do they have a lifetime warranty on their install? Ask as many questions as possible. Don't get caught up in if their installers are MECP certified... doesn't mean anything in the end. I have seen plenty of MECP certified installers that were horrible and plenty of non-MECP certified installers that were masters at their job. For what it's worth, I am not MECP certified.

Otherwise I'm going to highly recommend buying a product from me!

i would come to you but your like on the other side of the world !

looks like tonight is going to consists of a lot of research lol

[Broadfield]

i would come to you but your like on the other side of the world !

looks like tonight is going to consists of a lot of research lol

I wasn't implying you come to me and buy the stuff. I was implying you buy the stuff from me and I ship it to you;)

[nevertheless]

Broadfield, should I bag my Nissan pickup, or get some nice wheels for the 240?

[Broadfield]

Broadfield, should I bag my Nissan pickup, or get some nice wheels for the 240?

Is this a trick question!?!

I would need to see good pictures of both in order to make the call.

[Enna]

Ok Mr. Broadfield:

I have my S14 SR20DET leftover from when my car was totalled in Oct 2010, so this question follows suit with that.

Should I pick up a 95, turn it into a kouki and be able to pass smog, or pick up a 97-98 and figure out how I will pass smog? The smog resources are available, but I'm looking at the long road here. What do you think?

This is located in Las Vegas obviously, and we aren't as fucked as California.

[nevertheless]

Is this a trick question!?!

I would need to see good pictures of both in order to make the call.

240 will be Flakey champagne gold next month
http://s15.postimage.org/f6wywdqtn/601084354b2aabf6c729c2f353049ffa4e811462_wmeg_00.j pg

http://s16.postimage.org/rb9xohr11/tumblr_m0zv5e0_Hm_P1qm2bsto1_1280.jpg

[h2v7]

broadfield,
https://encrypted-tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRdiRPKs_P99b2llnS1XH8jgSfye8dka 0dy36W_QwFZVeEWJAgx


if i were to port this box where at on it would the port be at best and how big diameter on the hole?


thanks

[Broadfield]

Ok Mr. Broadfield:

I have my S14 SR20DET leftover from when my car was totalled in Oct 2010, so this question follows suit with that.

Should I pick up a 95, turn it into a kouki and be able to pass smog, or pick up a 97-98 and figure out how I will pass smog? The smog resources are available, but I'm looking at the long road here. What do you think?

This is located in Las Vegas obviously, and we aren't as fucked as California.

What is smog? But seriously, we have nothing like that here, so I'm not the guy to ask. But from a vehicle standpoint I would buy the newer Kouki. It will have less wear and tear, less mileage and so on... and it will already have the front end that you want in the end anyway.

240 will be Flakey champagne gold next month


Christ, what do you want me to say!?!

If it was me, I would ditch the 240 completely and put an SR in the truck... and bag it.

broadfield,

if i were to port this box where at on it would the port be at best and how big diameter on the hole?

thanks

DO NOT put a port in that box. It was never meant to be a ported box, which means its internal volume is not enough to become a "good" ported box. You would need to build a new box that is the correct volume, correct port length and correct port diameter. All of those go hand-in-hand.

[59bhp]

I'm impressed!... hell, I didn't even know where I posted it. For that I will give you 20% off any one single item I carry if you ever need to buy something from me. Custom work does not apply though.

why thank you, I may well take you up on that offer :)

[qwerth]

i got another question before i buy an alarm

i narrowed it down to the two cheapest alarms i could find

i just need it to make some noise when someone touches it.

and i plan on pretty much doing what my man right here did

Simple car alarm install - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkm94QgQR4M)


here is the one in the video
Amazon.com: Crimestopper SP-101 Deluxe 1-Way Alarm and Keyless Entry System: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Crimestopper-SP-101-Deluxe-Keyless-System/dp/B003JXU0JQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1332383500&sr=8-2)

here is my question is it the same basic concept with this one?
Amazon.com: XO Vision DX370 Universal Car Alarm System with Two 4-Button Remotes: Car Electronics (http://www.amazon.com/XO-Vision-DX370-Universal-4-Button/dp/B001P3PSSU/ref=cm_cmu_pg_t)

[Broadfield]

i got another question before i buy an alarm

i narrowed it down to the two cheapest alarms i could find

i just need it to make some noise when someone touches it.



Please read post # 78

http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/435932-ask-broadfield-3.html#post4545237

[qwerth]

understood. kind of forgot you got a business, thanks though man!

[Broadfield]

understood. kind of forgot you got a business, thanks though man!

Yeah, my sig kind of gives it away;)

[59bhp]

where do you usually find your harley turn signals for you custom clusters (feel free to tell me to sod off and mind my own business) :D

[h2v7]

broadfield what kind of sub box is perfect for s13 coupe?

[Enna]

Thanks for the previous answer Toby, just gaining perspective on my decision to go with OBD-1 or OBD-2 for a car.

How good is the bluetooth on the alpine decks? I have one that I got brand new in 2007 but I never picked up the bluetooth connector, so I'm interested in using now that talking on the phone while driving is illegal lol.

[scuba_steve91]

Hey Toby, I got a question about an alarm issue I'm having. The alarm I have is a Viper 5704 with remote start. I can't adjust the sensitivity via the remote no matter what I try to do!
The alarm shop that installed the alarm can't even figure it out.
I hold the F button for 8 seconds while the car is disarmed, then select the sensitivity menu, then hold the F button again, but the alarm just buzzes and locks me out!
Is it possible that the remote itself is faulty?

Heres a video showing what it does.

[Broadfield]

Thanks for the previous answer Toby, just gaining perspective on my decision to go with OBD-1 or OBD-2 for a car.

How good is the bluetooth on the alpine decks? I have one that I got brand new in 2007 but I never picked up the bluetooth connector, so I'm interested in using now that talking on the phone while driving is illegal lol.

Since Alpine switched over to Parrot Blue Tooth in their head units the stuff has been awesome. It's even better in this years units because every unit supports streaming audio via BT. You would even be able to pause/play, track up/down from the Alpine, to Pandora on your phone, via BT.

Hey Toby, I got a question about an alarm issue I'm having. The alarm I have is a Viper 5704 with remote start. I can't adjust the sensitivity via the remote no matter what I try to do!
The alarm shop that installed the alarm can't even figure it out.
I hold the F button for 8 seconds while the car is disarmed, then select the sensitivity menu, then hold the F button again, but the alarm just buzzes and locks me out!
Is it possible that the remote itself is faulty?


This is the easiest question I have gotten all week. Answer: you cannot adjust the shock sensor from the remote on the 5704. So your system is working perfectly fine. Now if you had a 5901, which is last years version of the 5704, then you would be able to. The difference is that Viper switched back to outboard shock sensors on their remote start/security combo systems. So you can only adjust the shock sensor via the potentiometer on the side of the actual shock sensor.

[scuba_steve91]

Since Alpine switched over to Parrot Blue Tooth in their head units the stuff has been awesome. It's even better in this years units because every unit supports streaming audio via BT. You would even be able to pause/play, track up/down from the Alpine, to Pandora on your phone, via BT.



This is the easiest question I have gotten all week. Answer: you cannot adjust the shock sensor from the remote on the 5704. So your system is working perfectly fine. Now if you had a 5901, which is last years version of the 5704, then you would be able to. The difference is that Viper switched back to outboard shock sensors on their remote start/security combo systems. So you can only adjust the shock sensor via the potentiometer on the side of the actual shock sensor.

Thanks Toby, that was the kind of answer I was hoping to hear! Thanks for making my night better as I was worrying about it all day. Next time I need to purchase alarms / stereos, I'll definitely look for you!

[Broadfield]

Thanks Toby, that was the kind of answer I was hoping to hear! Thanks for making my night better as I was worrying about it all day. Next time I need to purchase alarms / stereos, I'll definitely look for you!

No problem man! Yeah it kind of sucks because they kept the same remote for the 5704. So the option is still there in the setup menu of the remote. But it errors out because there obviously isn't a built-in sensor on the board of the brain for it to adjust.

[Enna]

Thanks for the reply toby. Is the parrot bt compatible with an older 2007 deck or would I need to upgrade?

The audio streaming would be an incredibly nice feature, but I mainly would like to not get pulled over for taking a call.

[Little Jason]

Alright well I'm kind of new to car stuff so I'm gonna ask something and hope I don't get flamed for it (lol)

For the S13 center vent gauge plate's, when you mount the gauges, do you have to take the whole dash out? & where would you run the wires through?

Sorry if this was a stupid question, but like I said I'm new to cars and trying to learn :S

Thanks.

[Broadfield]

Thanks for the reply toby. Is the parrot bt compatible with an older 2007 deck or would I need to upgrade?

The audio streaming would be an incredibly nice feature, but I mainly would like to not get pulled over for taking a call.

I'm sorry, I thought you were looking for a new head unit with BT. The new BT is built into the new radios. Alpine does have the Parrot add-on BT module(KCE-400BT). It will stream audio also. However, retail on that thing is $179. Retail on their new entry level BT radio is also $179. So you may just want to consider a whole new radio. However, if you have one of the higher end radios from 2007 then you may not want to. If you need pricing on any of the new models let me know. For example, I will be selling the CDE-133BT for $149 shipped.

[Enna]

Why must you tempt me so?

I believe it was one of the higher end unit's, I don't have the model number offhand but I do recall paying over 300 for it. Ipod hookup and all that fun stuff, unfortunately it is a single din and before they added in the feature to scroll through the ipod using the deck instead of the ipod itself.

[Jonah Hill]

Good Sir Toby. I noticed on your gansta and righteous S15 SR/notchtop setup that you were only running a oil filter relocation kit with out a oil cooler. What’s your take on that, why did you find it unnecessary? http://images112.fotki.com/v386/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG_7608-vi.jpg
http://images56.fotki.com/v124/photos/2/47612/9485407/IMG_0287-vi.jpg


Also... I have pondered at your god like craftsmanship, that you might have OCD like Howard Hughs, but instead with clean airplanes it’s with cars. Is my theory true?

[Broadfield]

Why must you tempt me so?

I believe it was one of the higher end unit's, I don't have the model number offhand but I do recall paying over 300 for it. Ipod hookup and all that fun stuff, unfortunately it is a single din and before they added in the feature to scroll through the ipod using the deck instead of the ipod itself.

If I were you I would buy a new one:D... are you running amplifiers of any sort?

Good Sir Toby. I noticed on your gansta and righteous S15 SR/notchtop setup that you were only running a oil filter relocation kit with out a oil cooler. What’s your take on that, why did you find it unnecessary?

Since the car was never heavily tracked or anything, there was absolutely no reason for an oil cooler. I'm pretty sure 99% of the people that own SR's do not run an oil cooler.


Also... I have pondered at your god like craftsmanship, that you might have OCD like Howard Hughs, but instead with clean airplanes it’s with cars. Is my theory true?

LOL, I definitely do not have OCD. I know everyone thinks I do, but I just like doing everything right. I have a very high standard, not OCD. I also like to do things that other people haven't done. I like to be on top of my "game" by challenging myself. But I don't just do it for the sake of doing it... it has to have a purpose.

[Enna]

No amplifiers for the component 3-ways, but an amp on the 10" PoS sub that I have. I'm not looking for fantastic sound, just trying to reuse stuff that I installed in 07.

[KiLLeR2001]

LOL, I definitely do not have OCD. I know everyone thinks I do, but I just like doing everything right. I have a very high standard, not OCD. I also like to do things that other people haven't done. I like to be on top of my "game" by challenging myself. But I don't just do it for the sake of doing it... it has to have a purpose.

LOL. Do you apply these high standards for everything you do in life? Aka... How hard was it for you to find the perfect wife that met your standards?

[yetijeff]

Hey broadfield, first off awesome work man. I really admire the quality and attention to detail u have with everything u do. I wanted to ask do u have any experience with swapping in the nx1600 gauge clusters an if so would u possibly know how to wire or what product I would use to allow the tachometer to work with a single cam KA24. Everyone I have asked either doesn't know or they have dual cam so It doesn't matter. Any help would be very much obliged.

[Broadfield]

No amplifiers for the component 3-ways, but an amp on the 10" PoS sub that I have. I'm not looking for fantastic sound, just trying to reuse stuff that I installed in 07.

Cool, I was just checking to see if you would need three sets of pre-outs. All Alpines come with at least a subwoofer out, so you would be fine no matter which one you choose if you go that route. By-the-way, I tossed up the new Alpine models on a for sale thread... you can check them out in my sig.

LOL. Do you apply these high standards for everything you do in life? Aka... How hard was it for you to find the perfect wife that met your standards?

I went through a handful of girlfriends:D My wife is amazing along with my two amazing daughters.... I am a very lucky man!

Hey broadfield, first off awesome work man. I really admire the quality and attention to detail u have with everything u do. I wanted to ask do u have any experience with swapping in the nx1600 gauge clusters an if so would u possibly know how to wire or what product I would use to allow the tachometer to work with a single cam KA24. Everyone I have asked either doesn't know or they have dual cam so It doesn't matter. Any help would be very much obliged.

Sorry man, I have no experience with that cluster.

[59bhp]

hey bud, where do you usually buy your harley davidson indicators from?

i see that you sell them but i am in the uk and the postage and tax would make them about 3 times the price,

any information would be greatly appreciated however i understand if you tell me to sod off and mind my own business :D

[Broadfield]

hey bud, where do you usually buy your harley davidson indicators from?

i see that you sell them but i am in the uk and the postage and tax would make them about 3 times the price,

any information would be greatly appreciated however i understand if you tell me to sod off and mind my own business :D

They are Bikers Choice

[Nicelyphe]

May have been covered already, sorry if so. But where do you acquire your ABS plastic sheeting for interior gauge stuff? May you sell me a sheet by chance?

[Broadfield]

May have been covered already, sorry if so. But where do you acquire your ABS plastic sheeting for interior gauge stuff? May you sell me a sheet by chance?

I very rarely use ABS in any of my work... I have never used it on a gauge cluster. You can buy it from your local stereo shop or me.

[VHS13]

Toby,

What is the best way to polish the cover of the gauge cluster?

[59bhp]

They are Bikers Choice

legend, really appreciate it

[Nicelyphe]

I very rarely use ABS in any of my work... I have never used it on a gauge cluster. You can buy it from your local stereo shop or me.


I'm sorry, I thought that was the type of material that was being used. May you clarify what is is? Also how much from you for some? It come 12in x 12in?

[Broadfield]

I'm sorry, I thought that was the type of material that was being used. May you clarify what is is? Also how much from you for some? It come 12in x 12in?


3/4" MDF... it comes in 49"x97";)

[Nicelyphe]

Ah! I did not know it was MDF you used haha, nevermind! I'm looking for a sheet of plastic I can use to cover my double din hole and mount to it and what not.

[titopr06]

hey toby,
did you polish the intake manifold on the sr set up yourself? could you share the best way to go about this.

thanks again!

[Broadfield]

Toby,

What is the best way to polish the cover of the gauge cluster?

Wet sand then polish. The grit you start with will depend on how deep your scratches are, but I typically start with 1200 grit... and that usually if harsh enough. So this is what I do and the products I use:

Wet sand by hand:

Wet sand inside and outside with 1200 grit then rinse
Wet sand inside and outside with 1500 grit then rinse
Wet sand inside and outside with 2000 grit then rinse
Dry and make sure it is sanded uniformly.


For the following I use a 3" mini air polisher:

3" 3M 05759 Foam Buffing pad with Pinnacle XMT #4 inside and out then wipe clean
3" Buff and Shine 330G Foam Polishing pad with Pinnacle XMT #3 inside and out then wipe clean
3" Buff and Shine 320G Foam Finishing pad with Pinnacle XMT #2 inside and out then wipe clean
3" 3M 05760 Ultrafine Foam Polishing pad with Pinnacle XMT #1 inside and out then wipe clean
Done!




Ah! I did not know it was MDF you used haha, nevermind! I'm looking for a sheet of plastic I can use to cover my double din hole and mount to it and what not.

Like I said, you can get the ABS from a local audio shop. If you can't find it then I can probably sell you some.

hey toby,
did you polish the intake manifold on the sr set up yourself? could you share the best way to go about this.

thanks again!

Yes, lots and lots of hard work. This process will cover any aluminum polishing, but the grit you start with will depend on what you are polishing. It won't hurt to start with a harsher grit than needed, but you will only create more work for yourself. So on cast items that have a texture to them, then you will want to start off with a 50 grit. You can try 80 grit, but it may take too long to sand it completely down to 80 grit scratches. It will also depend if you are doing it by hand or by air tool.... I highly suggest a 2" and 3" mini air sander for as many areas as you can get to with the sander. You will also want a die grinder or Dremel tool to get in the tight spots. If your manifold or turbo has raised lettering that you want to remove or any raised casting marks that you want to remove, then you will want to start on those with a 24 grit to knock them down quickly. So here is the sandpaper you will use:

24, 36, 50, 80, 120, 180, 220, 320, then the following wet sand: 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000. Obviously you will need to use various sanding bits on your die grinder or Dremel at the appropriate sanding stages to get into the tight spots. Once I am happy that the only scratches that are on the entire thing are 2000 grit, then I hand polish it with Hoosier metal polish... there is simply nothing better on the market. It's hard to find, but it's better than Flitz etc. And don't even ask about me about Mother's metal polish or anything else from big name polishing supply companies like Meguiars, 3M etc. Hoosier is SOOOO much better than those it shouldn't even be talked about in the same post.

[VHS13]

Thank you sir. Going to try the same on my helmet shield, that thing is toast!

[deadghost]

Toby, I need your expertise on this configuration that I have been debating. I am trying to run a titek/PBM swirl overflow tank, and wanted to pressurize the air/water flow. Trying to avoid cutting up the rad hoses and running the rad hose adapter. I'm pondering that it might be cleaner to just purchase 1/8 weld in bongs with 1/8npt fittings and have them fab'd to the thermostat & coolant outlet housing(air bleeder location)? And run the coolant hoses via swirl tank to those two locations, I figured it might look a bit cleaner and convenient?

*Whats your take on that?

*What materiel weld in bongs should I purchase. Steel or aluminum (stupid question I know, but I need to be sure)? Thank you for the help.




http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1221255814_2_FT2942_breatherdsm.jpg
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRB6FNT_-OLz8S0W2mUZ_5jj4G9_l3SpmLhPOPAmn_OblYH3KSICQ
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQFi45n01b9RUZx26djbglH3CmCEoov3 H_YtmxgBXRDPLit83v8

[s14fbs]

toby

im going to be flocking my s14 dash soon what would you suggest would be the best thing to fill the cracks in so it doesnt show threw the flocking ?

[hpipro4]

where do you buy the 3" polishing pads you use for polishing the cluster cover?

thnx a bunch

[Broadfield]

Toby, I need your expertise on this configuration that I have been debating.]

I will get back to you once I have a little bit of time to check out the diagram etc.... is this on an SR assume?

toby

im going to be flocking my s14 dash soon what would you suggest would be the best thing to fill the cracks in so it doesnt show threw the flocking ?

Check post #21 http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/435932-ask-broadfield.html#post4525309

You would want to use the either the 3M Semi-Ridgid Repair or Norton Speed Grip. Unfortunately you will need the applicator gun also. You would then simply sand the stuff down smooth and level with the dash.


where do you buy the 3" polishing pads you use for polishing the cluster cover?

thnx a bunch

I buy them from my local auto body supply store.

[hpipro4]

you know where i could buy the same 3" polishing pads ur using? thnx

[Broadfield]

you know where i could buy the same 3" polishing pads ur using? thnx


I went back and edited post #176(http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/435932-ask-broadfield-6.html#post4601229) with brand and part #'s of the pads, that way you can just Google them... so I can't do much more than that for you aside from buying them for you and shipping them to you:D

[Promise Land]

How is the electric car market in your area since there is a Mitsubishi factory listed in Normal that is supposed to be making the iQ? Ever thought about going hybrid on your S13? That's something I've yet to see...

[hpipro4]

whats your techniques when sanding the cluster cover? one direction or swirl?

[Piggy]

Good day sir! I've got some preference audio questions for ya.

So, same car as yours. I'm looking for a pretty deep frequency sub/box set-up that isn't so ridiculous in size. What I'm running with now is a Solo Baric L7 15 in a box I built to highest Kicker specs (6 foot cubic volume, sub on one side, port on the other bla bla)... It hits the sound I'm looking for perfectly, but it's pretty much impossible to fit in an S chassis so yea..

What box/sub combo would you go with looking for similar deep bass?
other specs: large capcell, 1500-2000 watt rms class d, all 0-gage wire, battery in trunk, JVC double din w built in adjustible eq.

I'd preffer to run one awsome sub with a well built box so whatcha got? Money not really a factor.

[Broadfield]

How is the electric car market in your area since there is a Mitsubishi factory listed in Normal that is supposed to be making the iQ? Ever thought about going hybrid on your S13? That's something I've yet to see...

The electric Mitsu cars are just starting to roll out... so we'll see how they do. I worked on one for the dealership a couple weeks ago and installed a 32" LCD in the back with a Xbox 360, Forza 4 and about $600 worth of green LED lighting inside and out. It will be used for their showroom floor to draw attention.

whats your techniques when sanding the cluster cover? one direction or swirl?

Circular motion

Good day sir! I've got some preference audio questions for ya.

So, same car as yours. I'm looking for a pretty deep frequency sub/box set-up that isn't so ridiculous in size. What I'm running with now is a Solo Baric L7 15 in a box I built to highest Kicker specs (6 foot cubic volume, sub on one side, port on the other bla bla)... It hits the sound I'm looking for perfectly, but it's pretty much impossible to fit in an S chassis so yea..

What box/sub combo would you go with looking for similar deep bass?
other specs: large capcell, 1500-2000 watt rms class d, all 0-gage wire, battery in trunk, JVC double din w built in adjustible eq.

I'd preffer to run one awsome sub with a well built box so whatcha got? Money not really a factor.

Honestly I would tell you to ditch that sub for the S13 coupe. There is no real good solution for a sub that large in the trunk of a S13 coupe. You will have to fire it up at the trunk which is a no-no. You only have about 13" of height from the floor to the bottom of the trunk/rear deck.

[Piggy]

Honestly I would tell you to ditch that sub for the S13 coupe. There is no real good solution for a sub that large in the trunk of a S13 coupe. You will have to fire it up at the trunk which is a no-no. You only have about 13" of height from the floor to the bottom of the trunk/rear deck.

I know, I guess I was vauge in my post, but it was supposed to say that I'm not going to even attempt to put that in my coupe. What I'm asking is what setup would you reccomend for similar low bass. W7? Just give me an idea.

[hpipro4]

do you usually sand the cluster by hand or using air polisher?

what variable speed car polisher would you recommend and polishing compounds? or what do you use to polished you car?

thank you sir

[e5s4y]

1.) where do you find Hybrid Audio speakers? Do you sell them?
2.) Looking for some front speakers, tweeters (if you deem them necessary in place of 2 or 3 way speakers) and possibly sub(s) and amp(s). I have some cheapy kicker comps in my gfs car and im considering swiping those and the zx400.1 amp, but also considering new stuff in its place for my car. I saw you recommend HA and JL, but lets say you have about $400. Make some magic happen?
3.) I want to install a circuit breaker in-line with my battery (quick disconnect for power, flips in case something happens, dont have to replace it when it flips as opposed to a fuse) what size would i need and where would you recommend getting it.

thanks man!

[dontxploitme]

what's a nice and cheap alpine head unit i can buy that won't skip and scratch cd's on really bumpy rides? seems like the unit i have now can't handle the bumpiness from my coilovers so now it doesn't play cd's at all and it seemed to scratch all of my cd's when it did work.

[Matej]

Mr. Broadfield, detail enthusiast extraordinaire, would you happen to know where on an S13 these fancy bolts are from?

http://www.matejblahut.com/gallery/d/4205-1/wherearethesefrom.jpg

[Broadfield]

I know, I guess I was vauge in my post, but it was supposed to say that I'm not going to even attempt to put that in my coupe. What I'm asking is what setup would you reccomend for similar low bass. W7? Just give me an idea.

A W7 will give you really nice low extension relative to its size. So that is probably going to be your best bet. The size you go with is going to be determined by how much space you are willing to give up. I would imagine "you" wouldn't want anything smaller than a 12".

do you usually sand the cluster by hand or using air polisher?

what variable speed car polisher would you recommend and polishing compounds? or what do you use to polished you car?

thank you sir

I usually sand the cluster glass by hand.

I use a Porter Cable on my car.... this guy right here:

Dual Action Orbital Polishers and pads: Porter Cable 7424 : Porter Cable 7424XP: Lake Country Buffing Foam Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html)

I then use the same Pinnacle lineup I use on the cluster glass. However I take the car two steps further by using the Pinnacle XMT Carnauba Finishing Glaze followed by some good wax. For what it's worth I get all of my stuff from Autogeek.net.

1.) where do you find Hybrid Audio speakers? Do you sell them?
2.) Looking for some front speakers, tweeters (if you deem them necessary in place of 2 or 3 way speakers) and possibly sub(s) and amp(s). I have some cheapy kicker comps in my gfs car and im considering swiping those and the zx400.1 amp, but also considering new stuff in its place for my car. I saw you recommend HA and JL, but lets say you have about $400. Make some magic happen?
3.) I want to install a circuit breaker in-line with my battery (quick disconnect for power, flips in case something happens, dont have to replace it when it flips as opposed to a fuse) what size would i need and where would you recommend getting it.

thanks man!

I sell everything you desire... Hybrid Audio, ARC Audio, JL Audio, Alpine etc. I sell the circuit breakers in various sizes also. Please send me an email to [email protected] and we can discuss your audio options further.

what's a nice and cheap alpine head unit i can buy that won't skip and scratch cd's on really bumpy rides? seems like the unit i have now can't handle the bumpiness from my coilovers so now it doesn't play cd's at all and it seemed to scratch all of my cd's when it did work.

Any Alpine model will work just fine. All of their units are built with the same quality... whether it's a $100 CD player or a $1000 NAV touch screen. The basic Alpine, the CDE-121, does CD, full iPod control, USB jack, 1/8" jack etc. Are you looking for any other features? You can find a link with pricing in my sig.

Mr. Broadfield, detail enthusiast extraordinaire, would you happen to know where on an S13 these fancy bolts are from?

Is this a test or something? What size are the bolts... or just the size of the head is fine, 10mm? Do you know if they are an interior or exterior?

[Matej]

Is this a test or something? What size are the bolts... or just the size of the head is fine, 10mm? Do you know if they are an interior or exterior?
OEM Nissan M6 bolts with a 10mm head, 20mm long, hardened, yellow zinc. They look almost new, thus I am guessing they are from somewhere in the cabin. I have three, so there should be three in the location, although I could also be missing some.
The fender washers on them are wider and much 'beefier' compared to all the other OEM M6 hardware used throughout the car.

I am trying to figure out where I removed them from when I stripped my car years ago, because now I want to buy plenty more of them if they are still available from Nissan, or possibly collect them from the junkyard if they can be found in all S13's in such good shape, and use them everywhere I can.

[Matej]

-Update-

Sorry for bothering you, I believe I just found them! After scouring the internet for the past few days for pictures of the S13's every dark corner and obscure part, I came across this:

http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq80/Spiffy240/DSC_0815.jpg


3.24$ per bolt. :)
BOLT-REAR WIPER MOTOR - 240SX (S13) 1989-1994 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com (http://www.courtesyparts.com/28710a-bolt-rear-wiper-motor-240sx-s13-1989-1994-p-67325.html)

[hpipro4]

what do you recommend frm turning brown dash n door panels to black in color? buy vinyls n reupholster or paint it with sem colorcoat? i do have crack on the dash and thinking about filling with the 3m semi rigid plastic n bomb it wit sem satin blk?? suggestions/recommendations? thnx

[Nicelyphe]

This may have been mentioned already..But what kind of adhesive do you lay on the rear of the gauge clusters to hold the gauges from moving around and such? Is that stuff removable from the plastic as well if need be?

[dontxploitme]

Any Alpine model will work just fine. All of their units are built with the same quality... whether it's a $100 CD player or a $1000 NAV touch screen. The basic Alpine, the CDE-121, does CD, full iPod control, USB jack, 1/8" jack etc. Are you looking for any other features? You can find a link with pricing in my sig.

well the unit i have now is an alpine (not sure which model) and like i said it scratches all my cd's it's an older unit so idk if they started making them better but i don't want all my cd's all scratched up. since my ipod died i've just been listening to cd's.

[Broadfield]

what do you recommend frm turning brown dash n door panels to black in color? buy vinyls n reupholster or paint it with sem colorcoat? i do have crack on the dash and thinking about filling with the 3m semi rigid plastic n bomb it wit sem satin blk?? suggestions/recommendations? thnx

SEM Color Coat would be the cheap option... and work pretty good. I wouldn't do it, but my standards are probably way higher than the average 240 owner. I would just buy the black OEM dash and panels. You can have the stuff vinyl wrapped, but it needs to be done by someone that is REALLY good. If not, it's going to look like crap and not hold up properly. If you pay to have it done "right", it's going to cost several hundred dollars.



This may have been mentioned already..But what kind of adhesive do you lay on the rear of the gauge clusters to hold the gauges from moving around and such? Is that stuff removable from the plastic as well if need be?

I try not to use anything as long as the customer supplies the mounting brackets with the gauges. I now fabricate my cluster plates in a way that I no longer need the glue as long as I have a bracket. If for some reason there is no bracket and it has to be glued in, then I use the 3M or Norton Speed Grip which I have talked about in this thread a couple times... so you should be able to find it. However, it is pretty permanent. If you live in a cooler climate then you can use yellow OEM type hot glue and it is NOT permanent.

well the unit i have now is an alpine (not sure which model) and like i said it scratches all my cd's it's an older unit so idk if they started making them better but i don't want all my cd's all scratched up. since my ipod died i've just been listening to cd's.

Sounds like you simply have a faulty radio. I have sold around 6,000 Alpine head units and have NEVER known one to scratch the CD. They have not started making them better because they have always been the best built unit on the market;). Like I said, I think you just have a faulty unit... the pickup maybe needs realigned.

[KiLLeR2001]

Toby, does Alpine make a headunit that is the standard single din size, but it's length is much shorter? I'm looking to find a headunit without a CD player and strictly want to go MP3/IPOD. The reason why I need the extra clearance is because all my alarm wiring is sitting directly behind the radio and currently it's crammed in there pretty good. Looking to free up the congestion.

[Broadfield]

Toby, does Alpine make a headunit that is the standard single din size, but it's length is much shorter? I'm looking to find a headunit without a CD player and strictly want to go MP3/IPOD. The reason why I need the extra clearance is because all my alarm wiring is sitting directly behind the radio and currently it's crammed in there pretty good. Looking to free up the congestion.

They do not, they are all 160mm deep give or take a couple mm.

[inopsey]

toby,
i bought some second skin from you in the fall and want to know what is the best/most effective way to apply it to reduce cabin noises coming from the trunk/rear end and wheel wells. i have a coupe. what areas should be covered and what areas can be left bare to produce the best effect.
thanks

[Broadfield]

toby,
i bought some second skin from you in the fall and want to know what is the best/most effective way to apply it to reduce cabin noises coming from the trunk/rear end and wheel wells. i have a coupe. what areas should be covered and what areas can be left bare to produce the best effect.
thanks

You want to roll it on for starters. I can't remember if you picked up a roller from me or not, but you will need one. You want the surface free of dust and grime. I usually do a quick wipe down with some adhesive remove or similar. The Second Skin product will basically stick to anything though. As far as where to put it, I usually just knock on the metal and see what it sounds like. Just like knocking on a door, you can knock on the metal and you will instantly be able to tell the difference between a fairly dead area and an area that is going to resonate. You will obviously want to focus on the areas that sound hollow etc. Then if you have any left over you can do the areas that were already kind of dead sounding. The roof for example is really bad, the rear deck, the doors etc. The floor isn't actually too bad, so maybe save that for last. What are you trying to accomplish? Is this for better sound out of an audio system or are you just trying to make the car not seem as much like a metal box? Also, what car is this for? If S13, is it a hatch or coupe?

[inopsey]

You want to roll it on for starters. I can't remember if you picked up a roller from me or not, but you will need one. You want the surface free of dust and grime. I usually do a quick wipe down with some adhesive remove or similar. The Second Skin product will basically stick to anything though. As far as where to put it, I usually just knock on the metal and see what it sounds like. Just like knocking on a door, you can knock on the metal and you will instantly be able to tell the difference between a fairly dead area and an area that is going to resonate. You will obviously want to focus on the areas that sound hollow etc. Then if you have any left over you can do the areas that were already kind of dead sounding. The roof for example is really bad, the rear deck, the doors etc. The floor isn't actually too bad, so maybe save that for last. What are you trying to accomplish? Is this for better sound out of an audio system or are you just trying to make the car not seem as much like a metal box? Also, what car is this for? If S13, is it a hatch or coupe?

im trying to make the s14 quieter overall. would i use it on the metal behind the door or the panel its self for the doors?

the door vents and power switches seem to be 'loose' in the panel on my s14 vs a s13 and they will squeek and vibrate from the stereo/pressing against them. there is also a fair bit of noise/resonance coming from the trunk/rear seat area right above the muffler. those two areas to start.

[japslapsilvia]

Toby,

Looking for recommendations for a simple clean set up.

Car 2012 IS350 with navigation.
Looking for sealed enclosure
what would you reccomend for amp and sub ?
I prefer 10s and I don't want anything over the top just something clean and simple. I would also need a line out converter or an amp that will allow high level connections as I would be tapping into the stock sub's signal. (Stock sub is dvc)
Thanks!!!

[S-Nation S13]

Textured spray paint .what do you use, I just filled in the cracks on my dash and I would love to paint it pm me please

[lbs_ft]

Hey Toby, I've been a big fan of your work, and I'm currently running one of your center vent pods and couldn't be more pleased with it and the expertise and level of craftsmanship you show in everything you do.

I've got a pretty simple question, and although I'm sure you've probably covered it already, I just couldn't read through this thread looking for the answer any more. I have an S13, and in it I have two interior pieces that I would like to restore, if not at least repair. One is the large piece of plastic surrounding the shifter/radio/climate controls and the other surrounds the gauge cluster. Both of these pieces are broken in spots, and the one on the center console is scratched and gouged pretty badly. All the replacements I've found seem to be in the same condition.

What would you recommend I do to fix this? I was planning on plastic welding them from behind to restore the rigidity, but what about sanding? Filling? Painting?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[blueshark123]

I bought a refurbished Viper 5701 alarm. Installing into my 1995 Base S14. I have installed all the wiring. Verified the wiring a million times. I’m trying to access the Learn routine so I can set menu 3 feature 8 to accessory 2 so that the remote start will work, however, I can’t get further than unlocking the door and turning the ignition to on then off. When I attempt to hold the valet/program switch nothing happens. I read that it might be possible for the system to be locked, however, I am not getting a long beep from the siren that I have read is suppose to happen if the system was locked. Have any ideas as to what may be causing this? Also, I am trying to wire the backup battery. I’m not sure where the gray wire is suppose to go. Is it suppose to go to H1 wire 2 constant 12v input?

[lewisfk]

hey i got the alarm installed and the install guy said it was over kill! I love it, go big or go home! The dvd system came in last week and it wasnt broken. I hope to have this all installed this weekend!

Q: How much can u get the JL Audio Tw513, i need it to fit under my rear set in my truck, 2011 ford super crew .

[Broadfield]

im trying to make the s14 quieter overall. would i use it on the metal behind the door or the panel its self for the doors?

the door vents and power switches seem to be 'loose' in the panel on my s14 vs a s13 and they will squeek and vibrate from the stereo/pressing against them. there is also a fair bit of noise/resonance coming from the trunk/rear seat area right above the muffler. those two areas to start.

The more the merrier man. Start with the areas that are really bad... that's about all I can say. Sometimes I'll even double it up with two layers if it's really bad.

Toby,

Looking for recommendations for a simple clean set up.

Car 2012 IS350 with navigation.
Looking for sealed enclosure
what would you reccomend for amp and sub ?
I prefer 10s and I don't want anything over the top just something clean and simple. I would also need a line out converter or an amp that will allow high level connections as I would be tapping into the stock sub's signal. (Stock sub is dvc)
Thanks!!!

For an amplifier I would recommend one of the ARC Audio XDi's. Then for sub(s) maybe a JL, ARC or Alpine Type R. What is your budget?

Textured spray paint .what do you use, I just filled in the cracks on my dash and I would love to paint it pm me please

It's not going to give you the same texture that is on the dash. You would need to spray the entire dash if you want a uniform texture. You can also try spraying the texture but then use the front of a piece of vinyl to press into it when it's still wet... hopefully giving you a vinyl like texture. I use SEM Texture Coat which needs a top coat color. Or I use SEM Chip Guard which comes in black and clear... and it's not recommended to put a top coat over it.

Hey Toby, I've been a big fan of your work, and I'm currently running one of your center vent pods and couldn't be more pleased with it and the expertise and level of craftsmanship you show in everything you do.

I've got a pretty simple question, and although I'm sure you've probably covered it already, I just couldn't read through this thread looking for the answer any more. I have an S13, and in it I have two interior pieces that I would like to restore, if not at least repair. One is the large piece of plastic surrounding the shifter/radio/climate controls and the other surrounds the gauge cluster. Both of these pieces are broken in spots, and the one on the center console is scratched and gouged pretty badly. All the replacements I've found seem to be in the same condition.

What would you recommend I do to fix this? I was planning on plastic welding them from behind to restore the rigidity, but what about sanding? Filling? Painting?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I'm glad you are happy with the product!

You can either plastic weld it or use the 3M or Norton two part plastic Speed Grip on the back to structurally fix the crack. Then use body filler to fill the crack on the front if needed. Then simply sand and prime. After that use a SEM Color Coat color of your choice. If you use the Speed Grip make sure to scuff the area your are applying the glue... I like to use 50 grit or harsher.

I bought a refurbished Viper 5701 alarm. Installing into my 1995 Base S14. I have installed all the wiring. Verified the wiring a million times. I’m trying to access the Learn routine so I can set menu 3 feature 8 to accessory 2 so that the remote start will work, however, I can’t get further than unlocking the door and turning the ignition to on then off. When I attempt to hold the valet/program switch nothing happens. I read that it might be possible for the system to be locked, however, I am not getting a long beep from the siren that I have read is suppose to happen if the system was locked. Have any ideas as to what may be causing this? Also, I am trying to wire the backup battery. I’m not sure where the gray wire is suppose to go. Is it suppose to go to H1 wire 2 constant 12v input?

Do you have the door open when trying to do it? You have to have the door open so the Viper sees the door trigger activated. Also, did you cut the accessory wire in the car to isolate the Viper accessory wire away from switch side during remote start? Also, did you wire the 2nd starter in the car?

As for the 520T, the grey wire will wire to the red H1/2 wire on the Viper. Nothing else will wire to these wires.

hey i got the alarm installed and the install guy said it was over kill! I love it, go big or go home! The dvd system came in last week and it wasnt broken. I hope to have this all installed this weekend!

Q: How much can u get the JL Audio Tw513, i need it to fit under my rear set in my truck, 2011 ford super crew .

How many subs do you need, just one?

[lewisfk]

just one with box if possible.

[blueshark123]

Answers below:


Do you have the door open when trying to do it? Yes You have to have the door open so the Viper sees the door trigger activated. Also, did you cut the accessory wire in the car to isolate the Viper accessory wire away from switch side during remote start? Yes, I cut the non constant 12v White wire in the ignition harness and hooked up the H3/7 pink/white wire to non key side and hooked up the H3/8 pink/black wire to key side Also, did you wire the 2nd starter in the car?
Yes, Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin violet wire to pin 85 of a nissan relay, pin 87 to 12v white wire, pin 86 jump to pin 87 and pin 30 to black/white wire in ignition. The nissan relay doesn't have a pin 87a but I don't think this would affect it. Also, I thought you only need the H3/1 pink wire connected to the black/red wire in ignition and have the door trigger wire and door open wire to be able to get into the menu?

I also cut the black/yellow wire in the ignition harness to connect H3/4 and H3/5. Was I suppose to not do that?

As for the 520T, the grey wire will wire to the red H1/2 wire on the Viper. Nothing else will wire to these wires. Doesn't constant 12v from white ignition wire also have to be connected to the H1/2 wire? I tried connecting it like this and the backup battery would only hold 5.5 volts and drop drastically when i connect the car battery. The alarm would also not go off.

Thanks for your help!

[upsdude]

so, in terms of keeping the interior parts like the dash and panels soft, what would you recommend to keep these from getting brittle? heard through the grapevine that armorall isn't any good.

[Broadfield]

Do you have the door open when trying to do it? Yes Is the door trigger working? As in does the alarm go off when you open the door? Make sure the alarm is actually seeing ground on the green trigger wire when you open the door.

Also, did you cut the accessory wire in the car to isolate the Viper accessory wire away from switch side during remote start? Yes, I cut the non constant 12v White wire in the ignition harness and hooked up the H3/7 pink/white wire to non key side and hooked up the H3/8 pink/black wire to key side Perfect! And don't forget to program the flex relay output for "accessory" once you figure out how to program it.

Also, did you wire the 2nd starter in the car?
Yes, Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin violet wire to pin 85 of a nissan relay, pin 87 to 12v white wire, pin 86 jump to pin 87 and pin 30 to black/white wire in ignition. The nissan relay doesn't have a pin 87a but I don't think this would affect it. Perfect!

Also, I thought you only need the H3/1 pink wire connected to the black/red wire in ignition and have the door trigger wire and door open wire to be able to get into the menu? Correct, I just wanted to make sure you also had these other items wired correctly since it's different from most other remote start installs.

I also cut the black/yellow wire in the ignition harness to connect H3/4 and H3/5. Was I suppose to not do that? Yes

As for the 520T, the grey wire will wire to the red H1/2 wire on the Viper. Nothing else will wire to these wires. Doesn't constant 12v from white ignition wire also have to be connected to the H1/2 wire? I tried connecting it like this and the backup battery would only hold 5.5 volts and drop drastically when i connect the car battery. The alarm would also not go off.
The red wire on the 520T will go to the heavy gauge white wire at the ignition harness... along with the other heavy gauge red wires... red, red/white and red/black


so, in terms of keeping the interior parts like the dash and panels soft, what would you recommend to keep these from getting brittle? heard through the grapevine that armorall isn't any good.

I'm not really sure if there is a good solution for plastic. I have always used Snap-On Protect One on mine with good results. But that doesn't really mean anything in the end as it may still become brittle in the future.

[blueshark123]

Is the door trigger working? As in does the alarm go off when you open the door? Make sure the alarm is actually seeing ground on the green trigger wire when you open the door.

I will double check this. I did not actually try to unlock the car with the key and see if the alarm goes off. I'll report back. Thanks again!

[FU12]

1.Do you sell any alarms that alert with the horn of the car? 2. Is there one with Remote Start that also uses the horn 3. With Remote start do you still have to use the key to drive, as in get in after its started and still have to use the ignition cylinder?

[hpipro4]

whats your trick when doing the s13 doorcard? how did you manage the corners? kinda tricky to get the wrinkle out!

[blueshark123]

I will double check this. I did not actually try to unlock the car with the key and see if the alarm goes off. I'll report back. Thanks again!

So this is embarrassing. I tapped into the wrong red/white wire for the door trigger. I had only seen one so I had not bothered checking it with the multimeter. I got it hooked up correctly and am now able to get into the menu! I set Menu 3 Feature 8 to Accessory 2, however, the remote start still does not work. I did not integrate the clutch switch into the alarm yet so I'm trying to remote start it while holding the clutch down, however, the remote start is not working. Are there any other features that have to be set for the remote start to work? In the mean time I'll work on getting the proximity sensor wired in.

[turbo_dreams]

Price quote on a 90 degree -4an and a 90 degree -8an fitting both in either silver/red or red/blue shipped to ny 11432.

[Broadfield]

1.Do you sell any alarms that alert with the horn of the car? 2. Is there one with Remote Start that also uses the horn 3. With Remote start do you still have to use the key to drive, as in get in after its started and still have to use the ignition cylinder?

1) The Viper 3203 and 3303 have a dedicated horn output in addition to the siren.

2) All Viper remote start/alarm combos have a dedicated horn output.

3) Absolutely! Because when you get in the car after remote starting, as soon as you depress the foot brake the remote start will shut down... thus shutting the car off. If you have the key in the ignition and turned to the ignition/run position then the vehicle will stay running when you depress the brake. You then simply drive away.

whats your trick when doing the s13 doorcard? how did you manage the corners? kinda tricky to get the wrinkle out!

It's not something I can really put into words for you. You just have to work at it.

So this is embarrassing. I tapped into the wrong red/white wire for the door trigger. I had only seen one so I had not bothered checking it with the multimeter. I got it hooked up correctly and am now able to get into the menu! I set Menu 3 Feature 8 to Accessory 2, however, the remote start still does not work. I did not integrate the clutch switch into the alarm yet so I'm trying to remote start it while holding the clutch down, however, the remote start is not working. Are there any other features that have to be set for the remote start to work? In the mean time I'll work on getting the proximity sensor wired in.

Are you going through the proper sequence to remote start a manual transmission vehicle?

Price quote on a 90 degree -4an and a 90 degree -8an fitting both in either silver/red or red/blue shipped to ny 11432.

You need to give me part #'s man. I don't know if you want non-swivel, double swivel or double swivel forged?

[blueshark123]

Are you going through the proper sequence to remote start a manual transmission vehicle?


I tried this sequence:
Manual transmission remote start
If the vehicle has manual transmission the proper steps must be followed before
leaving the parked vehicle or the remote start feature is disabled.
1. Make sure the doors on the vehicle are closed.
2. Put the transmission in neutral.
3. Press on the brake in the vehicle.
4. Apply the emergency brake.
5. Release the brake.
6. Within 15 seconds activate the remote start from the remote.
7. The parking lights will flash confirming that the remote start is active.
8. Turn off the ignition (the car should stay running when key is turned off).
9. Exit the vehicle.
10. Arm the alarm (the vehicle should shut off when arming the system).

I'm assuming you have to start the car before you begin this sequence? The manual doesnt specify. When I try this and I turn the ignition to off the car turns off. I don't think I have my parking lights wired in correctly as i did not turn the fuse to "+" as I am not quite sure how to do that. Will that prevent this from working?

[Broadfield]

I tried this sequence:
Manual transmission remote start
If the vehicle has manual transmission the proper steps must be followed before
leaving the parked vehicle or the remote start feature is disabled.
1. Make sure the doors on the vehicle are closed.
2. Put the transmission in neutral.
3. Press on the brake in the vehicle.
4. Apply the emergency brake.
5. Release the brake.
6. Within 15 seconds activate the remote start from the remote.
7. The parking lights will flash confirming that the remote start is active.
8. Turn off the ignition (the car should stay running when key is turned off).
9. Exit the vehicle.
10. Arm the alarm (the vehicle should shut off when arming the system).

I'm assuming you have to start the car before you begin this sequence? The manual doesnt specify. When I try this and I turn the ignition to off the car turns off. I don't think I have my parking lights wired in correctly as i did not turn the fuse to "+" as I am not quite sure how to do that. Will that prevent this from working?

I'm not sure where you got that sequence from, but you are missing a couple steps:

First off, did you wire the tachometer wire? It is the violet/white on the Viper. You then need to learn the tach signal to the Viper. Did you do all of this? If so, proceed to the proper activation below:


With vehicle running, doors shut and in neutral, depress the foot brake
Apply the e-brake
Release the e-brake
Apply the e-brake
Release the foot brake
Remote start vehicle
Parking lights will flash and you will most likely here the remote start relays engage
Turn the key off and remove... vehicle should stay running
Open door and get out
Shut door
Arm/lock vehicle with Viper remote
Vehicle shuts off and is now ready for remote starting


Note: if the alarm goes off, a door is opened etc. then remote start mode will automatically be canceled.

[dave7]

Broadfield,

If you ever want to sell your white stop tech brakes, I want to buy them. Lol. Cheers.

[Matej]

Mr. Broadfield, not sure where you stand on electric vs. air tools, but are there any electric impacts you would recommend?

[Broadfield]

Mr. Broadfield, not sure where you stand on electric vs. air tools, but are there any electric impacts you would recommend?

I use a Snap-On 3/8" drive 14v that is a beast.... but very expensive:( I have used it on lug nuts, suspension bolts etc. with zero issues. If you are doing very high torque applications then you would probably want a 1/2" drive 18v.

[PANDAemic]

Ok so attatched is a picture of my beeper for my car alarm. I am not familiar with this alarm at all and when I googled the brand to figure more about the alarm system, my beeper wasn't found anywhere on the site. It might be an older model, I don't know.

So to my question. My car alarm has a few warnings and it constantly goes off. There is nobody anywhere near my car and it still manages to go off. It has a 3 beep warning system but that constantly goes off as well. I was wondering if you knew more about this alarm and if you can give me maybe a model name or something. I would also like to know how to turn down the sensitivity. I bought the car with this alarm and this is the only way to lock my doors since the previous owner was stupid and removed the key locks...

I was wondering if there is a way to just use the beeper to lock the doors without engaging the alarm. Would I have to disconnect the horn? (This unit came with a horn so I'm not using my OEM horn.)

If needed, I'll try to find the main unit somewhere in the car, I have an idea of where its at but I can't really confirm since I don't know what I'm looking for...

EDIT: I dont even know how to change the time on the damn thing...
EDIT 2: Buying a new alarm is currently out of the question because I can't afford one at the moment but I do plan on buying a Viper alarm from you eventually...

[blueshark123]

I'm not sure where you got that sequence from, but you are missing a couple steps:

First off, did you wire the tachometer wire? It is the violet/white on the Viper. You then need to learn the tach signal to the Viper. Did you do all of this? If so, proceed to the proper activation below:


With vehicle running, doors shut and in neutral, depress the foot brake
Apply the e-brake
Release the e-brake
Apply the e-brake
Release the foot brake
Remote start vehicle
Parking lights will flash and you will most likely here the remote start relays engage
Turn the key off and remove... vehicle should stay running
Open door and get out
Shut door
Arm/lock vehicle with Viper remote
Vehicle shuts off and is now ready for remote starting


Note: if the alarm goes off, a door is opened etc. then remote start mode will automatically be canceled.

I got that sequence from the Viper 5701 install guide. I retried the same sequence but instead removed the key and now it works. The install guide said just to leave it off but wasn't working. Thanks for your help!!

[blueshark123]

So now I'm stumped. Remote start will only work once after do i this sequence. I have to do the sequence every time for it to remote start. Is this expected behavior?

[iveexcaped3]

on that engine push start button and the hud wheel cover how did you get the hud to work with the analog gages?

[XxHybridx]

First of all, just installed the 2 way alarm i bought from you, works like a charm, thanks!

Now i have a question, i am completely and i mean completely clueless when it comes to sound systems. I am looking to replace my speakers on my s13 and add some in the rear. I am looking for some good quality speakers with decent bass of course. What would you recommend for a good set, I dont need the top notch speakers that will make the windows on the car next to me shake but i want something definitely worth the price. Like someone else stated in the thread, I will be drifting the car so I am not looking to buy a sub I MAY consider a amp, but i rather not. Would just like a good speaker set up that will not sound like garbage. I also saw that you refer to Hybrid Audio as a good brand. Do you recommend any other brands?

And also, what line of speakers do you sell.(if any? although i think you do sell speakers as well, could be wrong.)

thanks!

[Broadfield]

Ok so attatched is a picture of my beeper for my car alarm. I am not familiar with this alarm at all and when I googled the brand to figure more about the alarm system, my beeper wasn't found anywhere on the site. It might be an older model, I don't know.

So to my question. My car alarm has a few warnings and it constantly goes off. There is nobody anywhere near my car and it still manages to go off. It has a 3 beep warning system but that constantly goes off as well. I was wondering if you knew more about this alarm and if you can give me maybe a model name or something. I would also like to know how to turn down the sensitivity. I bought the car with this alarm and this is the only way to lock my doors since the previous owner was stupid and removed the key locks...

I was wondering if there is a way to just use the beeper to lock the doors without engaging the alarm. Would I have to disconnect the horn? (This unit came with a horn so I'm not using my OEM horn.)

If needed, I'll try to find the main unit somewhere in the car, I have an idea of where its at but I can't really confirm since I don't know what I'm looking for...

EDIT: I dont even know how to change the time on the damn thing...
EDIT 2: Buying a new alarm is currently out of the question because I can't afford one at the moment but I do plan on buying a Viper alarm from you eventually...

I have never heard or seen that brand... but pretty much all brands of alarms operate the same. It will most likely have an outboard or inboard shock sensor. Either way it will have a small adjustment knob on the side or top that adjusts it. It may be an inset potentiometer that you need a little screw driver to adjust. If you are just wanting it to function as a keyless, then the easiest way is to put the alarm system into valet mode. However, I wouldn't know how to do that on the particular brand of alarm. Otherwise you will need to disconnect several wires and reattach the starter wire in order for it to operate solely as a keyless.

I got that sequence from the Viper 5701 install guide. I retried the same sequence but instead removed the key and now it works. The install guide said just to leave it off but wasn't working. Thanks for your help!!

What do you mean by remove the key? You obviously need to remove the key to take it with you when you get out of the car.

So now I'm stumped. Remote start will only work once after do i this sequence. I have to do the sequence every time for it to remote start. Is this expected behavior?

As long as you only shut it down with the remote or the remote starter times out, then you can restart it without the sequence. But if you open a door, hit the brake(which you would obviously need to open the door) or the alarm is triggered, then you would need to redo the sequence. Under normal circumstances this is not an issue. You will remote start it when you are at work etc. and then come out and open the door and leave. You will then do the sequence for the next remote start. But if you are just in your driveway testing things and you open the door after you remote start it, then yes you would have to do the sequence again. But in normal situations there would be no reason to remote start it more than once between driving the car from one spot to the next.

on that engine push start button and the hud wheel cover how did you get the hud to work with the analog gages?

The HUD will link with any Defi gauges that use the Link Controller. If the HUD is used with other gauges then it will only display what it does on it's own... which is speed and RPM.

First of all, just installed the 2 way alarm i bought from you, works like a charm, thanks!

Now i have a question, i am completely and i mean completely clueless when it comes to sound systems. I am looking to replace my speakers on my s13 and add some in the rear. I am looking for some good quality speakers with decent bass of course. What would you recommend for a good set, I dont need the top notch speakers that will make the windows on the car next to me shake but i want something definitely worth the price. Like someone else stated in the thread, I will be drifting the car so I am not looking to buy a sub I MAY consider a amp, but i rather not. Would just like a good speaker set up that will not sound like garbage. I also saw that you refer to Hybrid Audio as a good brand. Do you recommend any other brands?

And also, what line of speakers do you sell.(if any? although i think you do sell speakers as well, could be wrong.)

thanks!

Yes, I sell speakers... I wouldn't be much of a high-end car audio store if I didn't;) I think people on here forget that car audio is my job/life. Making gauge clusters etc. is not... that stuff is just extra because I can. I am partners in a full fledged, full service car audio shop. I sell Hybrid Audio, ARC Audio, Alpine, JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Viper, Escort, Second Skin, IXOS etc. I install six days a week(over 25,000 vehicles under my belt) and then sell and answer questions on here in the evening. I just don't advertise much car audio on here because it's against dealer agreements. So when you see a website selling JL Audio, Viper, ARC Audio, Hybrid Audio etc. they are NOT authorized dealers. They simply get it from a distributor. There are a couple instances where a website is authorized, but it's very rare. For example, 12velectronics.com is the only website authorized to sell Hybrid... but they can not sell it below M.A.P. You can go to the websites of any of the brands I carry and find my business in the authorized dealers list.

So to answer your question: Hybrid Audio. There isn't a better speaker at any price point. I would recommend either the Mirius or Imagine... although I'm going to assume the Mirius are more within your price range. An amplifier will really make them come alive though! So I always try to push the customer to consider a decent amplifier... which I recommend one of the ARC Audio XDi series. Please send me a PM or email if you want to discuss pricing and options on anything.

[ill.]

Yo Mr. Broadfield.

In this picture, on your SR20DET setup, you have fancy looking rocker cover bolts.

http://images40.fotki.com/v776/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG_7474-vi.jpg

May I ask where you got them from (if you remember, and are you using the OEM rubber seal/steel washer combo underneath them, or am I seeing things?

Thanks mate!

[Broadfield]

Yo Mr. Broadfield.

In this picture, on your SR20DET setup, you have fancy looking rocker cover bolts.

http://images40.fotki.com/v776/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG_7474-vi.jpg

May I ask where you got them from (if you remember, and are you using the OEM rubber seal/steel washer combo underneath them, or am I seeing things?

Thanks mate!

Those are from Gallery Fresh. And yes, I am using the OEM rubber/steel washer underneath them. I pretty much had every bolt/nut in my bay done with those... except everything but the valve cover was done with black ones. You can see in the same pic that the intake manifold had them, the strut tower nuts etc. I used them in around 90 locations in all.

Note: For my valve cover I had to make my own "setup". The S14/15 valve covers use shoulder bolts to attach them. Whereas the S13's use shoulder studs and nuts. If you have an S13 valve cover then you can simply order the nuts from Gallery Fresh and then maybe reuse the rubber/steel OEM washers like I did. I have never had an S13 SR though, so I can't 100% confirm what the fastener setup is. So back to my setup, I had to order custom shoulder bolts from McMaster Carr and then order the washers from Gallery Fresh. However, even with all of my super Broadfield powers, Gallery Fresh would not let me order just the washers. Gallery only sells the stuff in groups of 2 or 4 and only as a bolt/washer combo, nut/washer combo, screw/washer combo etc. So I wasted money on their bolts just to get the washers... only to turn around and not use the bolts at all. So I spent a pretty penny to make that valve cover setup.

[iveexcaped3]

The HUD will link with any Defi gauges that use the Link Controller. If the HUD is used with other gauges then it will only display what it does on it's own... which is speed and RPM.

so if i splice in the HUD wires to the factory harness going to an oem analog cluster it will project onto the windshield?

[Broadfield]

so if i splice in the HUD wires to the factory harness going to an oem analog cluster it will project onto the windshield?

If you are using the Defi HUD, then you simply tap into VSS and Tach(RPM) signal. It will then display those items. If you are wanting to display it on your windshield then you would need the Defi-Link VSD Concept. If you want a standalone unit that displays on it's own reflective glass, which is what I use when I mold it into the steering shroud, then you want to buy the Defi-Link VSD-X. Both of which are discontinued. But you can find them new and used from time-to-time on Ebay etc.

[iveexcaped3]

i was talking about the oem 240 hud with the oem analog cluster, ive searched it alot of times and no one has figured it out, an electronic guru like you i figured you would know better than anyone, i want to try to get both to work but from my understanding the oem hud only works off the digital cluster cuz it just mirrors the cluster image, but if i was to find the diagram for the hud and the wiring diagram for the analog cluster can i just splice in the the wires into the analog cluster and have the hud throw up a display?

[Broadfield]

i was talking about the oem 240 hud with the oem analog cluster, ive searched it alot of times and no one has figured it out, an electronic guru like you i figured you would know better than anyone, i want to try to get both to work but from my understanding the oem hud only works off the digital cluster cuz it just mirrors the cluster image, but if i was to find the diagram for the hud and the wiring diagram for the analog cluster can i just splice in the the wires into the analog cluster and have the hud throw up a display?

Oh, because in your first post below where you asked the question, you are referring to the vehicle that I did the push button start and the HUD on the steering shroud along with the Blitz gauge cluster!?! That's a Defi HUD that I molded into the steering shroud.

on that engine push start button and the hud wheel cover how did you get the hud to work with the analog gages?

I have zero experience with any of the OEM stuff. I just gut them and install cool stuff in it's place. So I have no idea if what you want to do will work. I could figure out if it would work, but someone would have to pay me to do so. If you want to try and figure it out you can simply look in the FSM. It has both the analog and digital cluster wiring schematics.

[iveexcaped3]

oh yeah i thought you used oem stuff on it, guess ill have to trial and error it and find out if it works or frys components lol, thanks anyway

[ill.]

Those are from Gallery Fresh. And yes, I am using the OEM rubber/steel washer underneath them. I pretty much had every bolt/nut in my bay done with those... except everything but the valve cover was done with black ones. You can see in the same pic that the intake manifold had them, the strut tower nuts etc. I used them in around 90 locations in all.

Note: For my valve cover I had to make my own "setup". The S14/15 valve covers use shoulder bolts to attach them. Whereas the S13's use shoulder studs and nuts. If you have an S13 valve cover then you can simply order the nuts from Gallery Fresh and then maybe reuse the rubber/steel OEM washers like I did. I have never had an S13 SR though, so I can't 100% confirm what the fastener setup is. So back to my setup, I had to order custom shoulder bolts from McMaster Carr and then order the washers from Gallery Fresh. However, even with all of my super Broadfield powers, Gallery Fresh would not let me order just the washers. Gallery only sells the stuff in groups of 2 or 4 and only as a bolt/washer combo, nut/washer combo, screw/washer combo etc. So I wasted money on their bolts just to get the washers... only to turn around and not use the bolts at all. So I spent a pretty penny to make that valve cover setup.

Cool thanks man!

Also, did you run your CAS wiring down the turbo side of your engine? I can't see it crossing the front, so I can only assume you did? Did you heat sleeve it or anything? No problems to run it like that?

[Broadfield]

Cool thanks man!

Also, did you run your CAS wiring down the turbo side of your engine? I can't see it crossing the front, so I can only assume you did? Did you heat sleeve it or anything? No problems to run it like that?

Yes, I ran it along side all of the AN breather lines. I ran it in some black -4 Thermo-Tec heat sleeve.

[Piggy]

Preference question for ya... - I have a 2006 LQ4 6.0 I just installed in my s14 and right now I'm running a built TH350 with 3000 stall. I've already decided I want a standard, but I'll be honest... this is my first v8 and I'm not sure what trans is best for what so, what would you do? Just for ref, a basic mod list: ported and cut heads, AFR double springs and retainers, comp pushrods, 230/236 112 .605 comp cam, LS6 intake, LS7 lifters and lifter trays, LS2 timing chain, New melling high volume oil pump, c6 z06 exhaust manifolds, Walbro 255 fuel pump, J30 3.90 LSD, Poly bushings, Ported throttle body, 2.5 " y pipe into 3" 240sx catback, bla. Any input is helpful. I'm already sourcing a q45 3.54 to help with the interstate driving.

[Broadfield]

Preference question for ya... - I have a 2006 LQ4 6.0 I just installed in my s14 and right now I'm running a built TH350 with 3000 stall. I've already decided I want a standard, but I'll be honest... this is my first v8 and I'm not sure what trans is best for what so, what would you do? Just for ref, a basic mod list: ported and cut heads, AFR double springs and retainers, comp pushrods, 230/236 112 .605 comp cam, LS6 intake, LS7 lifters and lifter trays, LS2 timing chain, New melling high volume oil pump, c6 z06 exhaust manifolds, Walbro 255 fuel pump, J30 3.90 LSD, Poly bushings, Ported throttle body, 2.5 " y pipe into 3" 240sx catback, bla. Any input is helpful. I'm already sourcing a q45 3.54 to help with the interstate driving.

T56, plain and simple. Just pick one up from an LS1 vehicle... 2000-ish Camaro/Trans Am. They are pretty damn bullet proof.... should handle 500whp in stock form.

[Piggy]

T56, plain and simple. Just pick one up from an LS1 vehicle... 2000-ish Camaro/Trans Am. They are pretty damn bullet proof.... should handle 500whp in stock form.

Going to be about 425ish when it's all said and done. Thanks.

[Broadfield]

Going to be about 425ish when it's all said and done. Thanks.

Yeah, mine will definitely be more whp than that and I will be running a stock T56.

[Piggy]

Sounds good. I see no reason I should over-complicate it lol.

[blueshark123]

What do you mean by remove the key? You obviously need to remove the key to take it with you when you get out of the car.



As long as you only shut it down with the remote or the remote starter times out, then you can restart it without the sequence. But if you open a door, hit the brake(which you would obviously need to open the door) or the alarm is triggered, then you would need to redo the sequence. Under normal circumstances this is not an issue. You will remote start it when you are at work etc. and then come out and open the door and leave. You will then do the sequence for the next remote start. But if you are just in your driveway testing things and you open the door after you remote start it, then yes you would have to do the sequence again. But in normal situations there would be no reason to remote start it more than once between driving the car from one spot to the next.


So you do have to do the sequence for every time u want to remote start the car? That's what I was referring to. Is there anyway to bypass this so i don't have to do the sequence every time?

[Broadfield]

So you do have to do the sequence for every time u want to remote start the car? That's what I was referring to. Is there anyway to bypass this so i don't have to do the sequence every time?

Yes, you have to do it every time. Otherwise what would be the point of having the sequence at all!?! If you do not want to do the sequence, then you can simply program the brain for automatic mode. ***But do at your own risk***. If you leave it in gear, even with the e-brake on, it will drive away when you remote start it. I have tested cars in gears 1-3 and reverse and it will remote start and drive away... even with the e-brake on.

[tabasco122]

You said hybrid audio was generally the best per price point as far as quality goes. I get a kicker discount through best buy, and can get a pair of the QS 6.5" components for about $150 a pair, would i be better off getting that or is there something better at that price/quality? same thing with amps, i can get a hefty discount on kicker amps also.


as far as that question about the oem hud that the other guy asked, the controller for the hud is built into the digital cluster, so you would somehow have to reproduce that controller in order for the hud to operate properly with the analog cluster.

[Kuma]

Yes, you have to do it every time. Otherwise what would be the point of having the sequence at all!?! If you do not want to do the sequence, then you can simply program the brain for automatic mode. ***But do at your own risk***. If you leave it in gear, even with the e-brake on, it will drive away when you remote start it. I have tested cars in gears 1-3 and reverse and it will remote start and drive away... even with the e-brake on.

example:
cQkbrFcXSqI

[Broadfield]

You said hybrid audio was generally the best per price point as far as quality goes. I get a kicker discount through best buy, and can get a pair of the QS 6.5" components for about $150 a pair, would i be better off getting that or is there something better at that price/quality? same thing with amps, i can get a hefty discount on kicker amps also.


as far as that question about the oem hud that the other guy asked, the controller for the hud is built into the digital cluster, so you would somehow have to reproduce that controller in order for the hud to operate properly with the analog cluster.

Kicker has never been known for their mid-highs. With that being said, I have never heard the speakers in question though. What is your discount level at Best Buy? Because that is below dealer cost. Is it through an employee accommodation?

If you are getting 60-75% off then I really can't compete with that. I could get you into a set of Imagines, but they would still be more than a measly $150. Those Kickers retail for $500+. If you bought a set of Hybrids that retailed for $500 they would absolutely destroy those Kickers. It would be a joke to even make the comparison. However, since you are getting the Kickers for such a steal then there's nothing I can do for you.

What amplifier are you looking at and how much can you get it for?