Fuse box relocation

[tinys s14]

Any know how to relocate a fusebox or knows someone lmk

[beat92240]

A hint is:
To do it right takes a lot longer than you would think.

Just make sure you have plenty of time and a lot of spare wire. Its a whole lot of extension on some parts of the harness and reduction on other parts. Theres really no easy way. Just take your time and make sure you clearly mark any wires you cut to lengthen or shorten.

I ended up putting mine in the glove box. Its not quite complete, but you get the idea:

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/343blueR32/260sx%20build/fusebox.jpg?t=1320893718

Theres not really a better way to explain it online. Just take your time. Its not going to be a couple hour thing if done right.

Good luck!

[nissanfreak317]

Can we get an estimate of how long it took you? I'm thinking of doing this as well while my car is in pieces...

[beat92240]

I re-did the interior harness while I was at it (didn't need any of the seatbelt wiring harnesses, HUD harness, instrument cluster harness, interior lights, etc) so thats added in to this.

But as you know, a lot of the fusebox harness routes around the drive side of the engine bay, under the rad support, and then into the fusebox. Theres also wiring on the passanger side into the fusebox. So I pulled the whole harness that routes around the drive side engine bay back into the car and ran it across the interior behind the dash. I then pulled the passanger side wire harness back through to the interior as well.

Then you weed out all the wiring that needs to go to the side markers, turn signals, headlights, motors, factory horns if you're keeping them, rad fans, wiper motor booster, and anything else you're planning on keeping.

Send those wires out the side they're needed, tucking them through the factory groumits in the wheel well area, run them down the length of the car inside the engine bay in the channel where the fender bolts go.

I'll post pictures tomorrow of where I ran everything to keep it all clean and factory tomorrow if I remember.

Conservative estimate though...If the cars apart (fenders off, bumper off, dash out) 4-6 hours to do it right. (heat shrink on proper connections for any shortened or extended wires, re-looming everything, re-taping everything to the groumits when sending it back out again) Assuming you have all the connectors and any extra wiring needed handy. Also make sure to get some painters tape and a marker to mark any wires you extend or shorten. Thats a must or you're going to have a hell of a time finding all the wires again.

Make sure you have some (AT LEAST) 8 gauge wire to extend the starter wire, alternator wires, and any other larger gauge wiring that go to the distribution box or battery as well. Obviously dependent on where you plan on relocating the battery 4 gauge is prefereable.

[blueshark123]

I can relocate but i don't have time for that unfortunately. It takes to long for so little. YOu are better off trying it yourself unless you wanna pay alot.

[nissanfreak317]

I re-did the interior harness while I was at it (didn't need any of the seatbelt wiring harnesses, HUD harness, instrument cluster harness, interior lights, etc) so thats added in to this.

But as you know, a lot of the fusebox harness routes around the drive side of the engine bay, under the rad support, and then into the fusebox. Theres also wiring on the passanger side into the fusebox. So I pulled the whole harness that routes around the drive side engine bay back into the car and ran it across the interior behind the dash. I then pulled the passanger side wire harness back through to the interior as well.

Then you weed out all the wiring that needs to go to the side markers, turn signals, headlights, motors, factory horns if you're keeping them, rad fans, wiper motor booster, and anything else you're planning on keeping.

Send those wires out the side they're needed, tucking them through the factory groumits in the wheel well area, run them down the length of the car inside the engine bay in the channel where the fender bolts go.

I'll post pictures tomorrow of where I ran everything to keep it all clean and factory tomorrow if I remember.

Conservative estimate though...If the cars apart (fenders off, bumper off, dash out) 4-6 hours to do it right. (heat shrink on proper connections for any shortened or extended wires, re-looming everything, re-taping everything to the groumits when sending it back out again) Assuming you have all the connectors and any extra wiring needed handy. Also make sure to get some painters tape and a marker to mark any wires you extend or shorten. Thats a must or you're going to have a hell of a time finding all the wires again.

Make sure you have some (AT LEAST) 8 gauge wire to extend the starter wire, alternator wires, and any other larger gauge wiring that go to the distribution box or battery as well. Obviously dependent on where you plan on relocating the battery 4 gauge is prefereable.


This is great info, thanks! My car is completely stripped down so it should go along just like you have laid out.

[Darren]

Make sure you do your research. 4-6 hours might be a good timeline IF you have a good understanding of what needs to be done, and you do it right the first time....

Read as much as you can on the subject and plan it out before you do it. That'll avoid obvious screw ups before you even start.

There is a tonne of info on this site, and others, SEARCH and be found!

If the search doesn't work for you, like it doesn't for me sometimes, you can also use google to do a targeted site search like so:

site:zilvia.net/f/ <search phrase>

Good luck, the outcome is more than worth the effort!

[shaggy sr]

We need a better writeup

[sexcii-zenki]

We need a better writeup

yessir agreed ^^^...

beat92240 mentioned 4-6hours (if the cars apart) I think it will be more than that without a rush so me personally to anyone doing this the first time, try and have a secondary car kuz if u fuck up somwhere and car wont start ull have to retrace everything over...and if u go 2a shop they def wont do it in 1 day...in my case my cars my project/toy shes been sitting since nov 2010 once i finish all the mechanical parts then i will be tackling this:

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j342/supersylv1a/IMG_5111.jpg

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j342/supersylv1a/IMG_5008-1.jpg

me personally i want fully fuctional car ie: glovebox not knocking any1 just my preference

[sexcii-zenki]

just found this read almost at the botom from Speedfiend and also Japslapsilvia

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/322220-wire-tuck-pic-thread-10.html

and alot more interesting and imformative stuff...

[TXtimS13]

I'm actually in the process of moving my fuseboxes right now, so my car is a mess lol. i started by unlooming the headlight harness and all the wires going to fusebox. then of course unplugged everythinng. after all wires were unloomed and disconnected, i cut open the harnesses that go through the wheel wells (both sides) the passenger (right) side will be much easyer to do since there's a lot less wiring. Then i basically color coded the wires that could easily get mixed up (either looked the same or close colors). then i just cut the wires on both sides somewhat in the middle. At this point the harness in the bay should be free and can be taken out. Ok, so there are these two open holes in the back to corners of the engine bay, i pushed the ramainder of the harness through there. This is the point i'm at now. To finish i'll be reconecting the harness using solder and electrical tape and running it behing the motor. of course i'll tape all the harness back up and put the plastic holder/insulater around it then pin the whole harness around the back of the motor on the firewall. my fuseboxes will be in the back corners of the bay to keep them away from my open wheel wells. i might have missed a step or few but this is basically the easyest way i could think of with this.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Congratulations bumping a 2 yr old thread...

[Jwillinger]

Hate to bring up a old thread but im in the middle of doing this and was wondering if I can run the alternator hotwire and starter hotwire from the lower engine harness on the same post ? Thanks for any advice

[1993fdrx7]

i dont think you can use the same post