How To: DIY Paint and Body work

[buentellomma]

This is the DIY thread for paint and body work, if posting a "how to" please be very descriptive step by step with pictures.

How to paint your car inside a garage

Step 1: after sanding your primer-ed car down with 320grit sand paper, prep the surface with wax and grease remover and tack clothes. Once your surface is clean mask any areas off that does not need paint with 18" masking paper and 3m green tape.
Step 2: Turning your garage into a booth: the easiest cheapest way is clear plastic drop cloths. Cover your walls and floor with the plastic, using 4 or more fans and filters( same amount of fans as filters) place two fans with filters in front of them in the opening of the garage and two fans with filters before them on the exit door or window of the garage. This will have air being pushed in and sucked out.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_10-32-14_987.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_10-32-27_23-1.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_10-32-46_991.jpg
Step 3: Once your booth is ready and your car is masked off, wipe the car down again with wax and grease remover and tack rag. Using a HVLP spray gun , spray your primer sealer onto the car in a even coat with a spray pattern 6-10 inches wide with a 50% overlap of each pass, keep your surface distance about 6-8 inches from the surface and move with a steady speed. Primer sealer seals off everything under it keeping blistering and wrinkles down and if gives a uniform color for the basecoat to go on to. Sealer does not need to be sanded unless you run it, once it has a dull appearance it is ready for base coat.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-03_14-16-26_342.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-03_14-16-36_595.jpg
Step 4: Spray your base coat even coats with 50% overlap on each pass. base coat goes on medium wet , if spraying metallic s do not apply wet this will cause blotchy looking paint. To fix this, back your distance off a few inches.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_12-50-57_647.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_12-50-48_61.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_12-50-19_476.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_12-50-02_731.jpg
Step 5 : Allow the base coat to air dry for atleast 30mins before moving to the next step( as it drys the base coat will have a flat color look). If your doing a two tone or stripes mask your design off with 1/4" masking tape and use masking paper to cover the areas not needing the new color and apply the base coat using the same steps as above.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_15-19-42_991.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_15-19-56_12.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_15-20-13_833.jpg
Step 6: Your car is now ready for clear coat once the base coat has a flat look to it. Apply the clear coat using the same steps above, be careful not to go over the same area more than once on each coat of you will get runs. Apply 2-3 coats of clear to the car with about 20mins between each coat. Allow the car to sit for 8hrs before demasking.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_16-50-15_959.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_16-50-26_12-1.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_16-50-54_217.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_16-55-54_749.jpg
Supplies:
320grit sand paper
masking paper
masking tape
wax and grease remover
tack cloths
automotive towels
base coat
clear coat
mixing cups
strainers
respirator
air compressor
plastic drop cloths
filters and fans

[240cracker]

how much did that cost you?

[buentellomma]

how much did that cost you?
supplies alone was around $500 but im sure it would be cheaper if you purchased single stage paint. I bought a gallon of atomic orange and half a gallon of black, gallon of clear coat, quart of sealer, and then all the other supplies tapes plastic etc.....

[scott883]

Awesome I was just gonna do a seach on what to do to prep ur car for primer and paint! U read my mind and your car came out amazing!

Sent from my BlackBerry 9810 using Tapatalk

[buentellomma]

Awesome I was just gonna do a seach on what to do to prep ur car for primer and paint! U read my mind and your car came out amazing!

Sent from my BlackBerry 9810 using Tapatalk
im going to post a walk thru on spraying door jams, tinting headlights/tailights, and all kinds of different situations with bodywork and metal working.

[upsdude]

nice that will be welcome info :D

[zooopreme]

What were the numbers on the HVLP gun & what size compressor did you use?

[kalypso123]

nice work thanks

[buentellomma]

What were the numbers on the HVLP gun & what size compressor did you use?

Devilbliss finishline hvlp spray gun and a 33gal craftsman compressor. I would not atempt to spray something this large with anything less than a 20gal compressor. PSI on the gun was 40

[xBtony]

not bad. Most people have gotten away from shooting base over 320 now a days tho. Its usually finished off with like 4-600 but thats also due to the waterborne materials that are becoming more and more used. Looks like it turned out pretty good tho, I expected a lot less when I clicked on this thread, but overall Im slightly impressed. lol

[Jonathong]

Very nice thread.

[Walperstyle]

You may want to mention that its good to let the paint 'cure' before driving the car too hard or too fast. A bumblebee will ruin a paintjob if its not cured enough. so, drive with ease for the first few hot sunny days.



Two really good books.

http://covers.openlibrary.org/w/id/1422434-L.jpg
http://images.betterworldbooks.com/076/How-to-Custom-Paint-Your-Car-Bortles-JoAnn-9780760323113.jpg

[dato]

U failed to mention the most important part of the process. Body work.

[buentellomma]

not bad. Most people have gotten away from shooting base over 320 now a days tho. Its usually finished off with like 4-600 but thats also due to the waterborne materials that are becoming more and more used. Looks like it turned out pretty good tho, I expected a lot less when I clicked on this thread, but overall Im slightly impressed. lol

Thanks, well thats the way i was taught when i went through automotive school years ago.... the sealer helps cover up the 320grit marks, nothing wrong with going with the higher grits but its not nessary. Its a fairly simple crossflow paint booth setup, good for the budget guys who dont want to drop a few grand on paint/body work.

[godrifttoday]

Water base paints u might even need to go to 800 grit

[buentellomma]

U failed to mention the most important part of the process. Body work.
You failed to read through thhe post where i said i was going to post how to's on body work....... i just kicked the thread off with painting! Fail on you go back and read
:picardfp:

[buentellomma]

Water base paints u might even need to go to 800 grit

Im not sure what the requirements are for those paints, we use solvent base out here on the east coast..... i would follow the man. Instructions on those

[buentellomma]

Remove and Replace a rusted section
For this post I am going to show how to properly remove a rusted section on a quarter panel and replace the section with new metal and prepare it for paint.( this is the way i do it and I was trained while I was in automotive collision school.. this is NOT the only way but just one of many ways this can be properly done)
step 1: locate your damage area
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-04-29_19-46-48_791.jpg
step 2: remove the quarter glass and trim, then mask off the area you need to cut out , and then remove it using a air resip. saw. ( I used welding wire and two screw drivers for handles and I pushed the wire through the urathane window sealant and used a back and forth sawing motion )
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-01_18-13-07_566.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-01_18-13-22_221.jpg
step 3: making a template for the damaged area. use masking tape to make a transferable template on to a sheet of metal. make sure to mark where each bent is so it will be easier to bent into the shape needed.
step4: after you insert is bent to shape, test fit it and then tack weld it to the area to make sure everything is good.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-02_17-40-50_435.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-02_17-40-56_576.jpg
step5: continue welding in a random stitch welding pattern until all the welding is complete.( make sure to take your time and only do one stitch weld at a time or you will over heat the panel and cause it to warp. automotive metal is super thin be careful and take your time) you may have to take a body hammer and shape it more during this step. I had to beat the crap out of this to fit good.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-02_18-06-28_185.jpg
step6: take a grinder and smooth out the welds to prepare for bodyfiller( aka not bondo... bondo is a brand not a product)
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-02_19-27-07_28.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-02_19-27-13_227.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-21_10-13-55_378.jpg
step 7: remove the paint around the area for a thin application of fiberglass kitty hair body filler( this is to add some strength and prevent corrosion to the welded area... this is what i like to do, it can be done with or without this. Make sure its thin, this stuff gets very very hard and is difficult to sand)
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-21_10-39-43_711.jpg
step8: sand the fiberglass filler, find your high and low spots and take the paint layers out more if needed.( highs will be metal showing in or right outside your filler area)
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-21_11-14-22_70.jpg
step9: if you have high spots use a body hammer and lightly tap them down
step10: apply the body filler to the area
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-21_11-24-09_312.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-21_11-24-14_499.jpg
step11: sand down the filler and shape the body line, use 45 degree downward or upward sanding motion with a block. the end should look like a cross hatching pattern in the filler. you can use 36 grit to knock down the filler but then 80grit is used to shape it and remove the 36grit scratches. after shaping and sanding with 80 grit, use 180 grit to final finish the surface for primer. 36 grit, 80 grit, 180grit is all you need to get your filler area ready for primer.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-21_12-57-49_656.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-21_12-57-57_631.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-21_12-58-05_858.jpg
step12: prep the surrounding painted area that was 180grit sanded with 320grit to final prep for primer . be sure to slightly go over the filler area as well.

[buentellomma]

How to mold or repair plastic bumpers:
this is how i mold / repair plastic bumpers and or parts
step 1: identify the area needing molding or repairing
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/086.jpg
step 2: prep the area with 80grit and apply a 2 part epoxy adhesive designed for plastic repair( fusor is what i like to use, 3m is good also) in this case i had a filler piece to work with, you may also use other bumper pieces to make your own. trim and fit the insert and apply the epoxy to the part and the bumper, clamp it down and allow to cure
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/087.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/088.jpg
step 3: once the epoxy is cured, remove clamping hardware and sand the extra epoxy with 180 grit, then apply a light coat of body filler to obtain a smooth surface.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/090.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/089.jpg
step 4: sand the filler to shape the body lines and fill any small voids, use 80grit sparingly it will cause the outside plastic to rough up. use 180grit and 320grit to sand using 45 degree angles creating a cross hatching look. prep the area outside the repair with 320grit and mask off for primer. ( be sure to reverse mask, apply the tape and paper away from the repair and then flip it over, giving it a round surface for the overspray primer to go under not leaving a hardline)
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/091.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/092.jpg
step 5: demask and allow the primer to cure
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/093.jpg

[buentellomma]

How to fill in side marker lights

step 1: prep the area to be filled, remove all coating to bare metal within an inch or so of the area to be filled. make a filler plate out of thin steel( same thickness of the original area being worked) test fit the filler plate. Using a mig welder , tack weld it into place to verify fitment .
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/ae86x134.jpg
step 2: after verifying fitment , patiently weld it into place using random stitch welding and allowing the panel to cool down between welds so as not to over heat and warp it.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-03_18-41-55_790.jpg
step3: once welding is complete , use a grinder to smooth down the welds until they are even with the surface of the panel( be careful not to dig into the panel and damage the surface of the filler or the original metal)
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-23_17-20-30_601.jpg
step 4: once the filler welds are smooth , apply a thin coat of fiberglass body filler to the repair area( this stuff gets very hard very quick so do not cake it on unless you fill like sanding a while)
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-23_17-29-56_217.jpg
step 5: sand the fiberglass body filler using 80 grit sand paper until smooth with the surface, using 180grit sandpaper feather out each layer around the repair leaving 1/4" of each layer in a step condition, clean off the fiberglass dust and apply bodyfiller to the area
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-23_17-59-37_647.jpg
step 6: sand the body filler smooth using 80 grit in a 45 degree angle upward and downward until smooth with the surface, repeat this step using 180grit to remove the 80grit sand scratches. prep the surrounding area around the repair with 320grit for application of primer.(note: the pictures below the whole car is being striped down due to having too many previous paint jobs. the area does not need to be that large just to apply primer)
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-27_09-15-33_648.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-27_09-15-21_995.jpg

[buentellomma]

How to restore/repair a bodyline
This is one way I like to do this:
step 1: after repairing the damaged area use masking tape to mark the bodyline needing to be reformed
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-27_10-13-43_476.jpg
step 2: after masking the line off apply a light coat of body filler on the area making sure you apply it all the way to the masking tape( this will help create the edge of the line) remove the tape as the bodyfiller is curing
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-27_10-22-31_729.jpg
step 3: once the tape is removed you will notice the bodyfiller now has the shape of the edge of the tape, using 180grit sandpaper lightly sand and shape the bodyfiller to form the line. ( a hard sanding block can be used to sand the flat areas and if you dont have a soft block, a paint mixing stick can be used with sandpaper around it. the mixing stick will form to the surface area on curves)
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-27_10-43-10_497.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-05-27_10-43-20_513.jpg

[buentellomma]

How to two tone doors and door jams:
Step 1: Remove all door rubber seals, door strikers, door panels, window moldings etc.. anything that you dont want to have to mask off and risk having paint lines on.
Step 2: Scuff sand the areas with 320grit sand paper, using wax and grease remover, clean the jams using wet cloth dry cloth method. Use a tack rag to remove any dust left behind before you begin the masking process.
Step 3: Mask off the door opening and the inside of the door where the door panel goes, this will prevent paint from entering onto the glass and latch.
Step 4: Tack rag again before spraying primer sealer, apply a thin even coat of sealer to the entire areas being painted. Sealer does not get sanded unless you get a run or a lot of trash on the surface.
Step 5: Spray the top base coat to the areas that need that color.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_15-04-28_500.jpg
Step 6: Allow the base coat to air dry for 20-30 mins then using 1/4" masking tape lay out the two tone lines. apply 3/4" masking tape to the 1/4" line and then apply 18" masking paper to protect the first basecoat.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_15-32-17_296.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_15-33-14_270.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_16-05-28_978.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_16-05-43_622.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_16-06-05_197.jpg
Step 7: apply the other base coat to the masked off areas. Make sure to spray all the hard to get areas first so not to touch wet paint when trying to spray them.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_16-10-38_611.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_16-11-18_115.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_16-08-26_807.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_16-34-28_916.jpg
Step 8: demask the two tone masking and apply the clear coat. once the clear has cured for 30mins or so remove the masking, be sure not to let the doors shut or touch anything until the paint has cured for atleast 8hours
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_16-54-58_45.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-12-04_16-56-04_403.jpg

[buentellomma]

How to tint head lights/ tail lights
step1: prep the part being painted with 1000grit or finer using either wet or dry sand paper. mask off the areas that do not need paint.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-01-11_14-29-47_693.jpg
step 2: mix up clear coat ( professional automotive clear) with a black base coat. do a few test sprays on another part to get the tint right( add more basecoat a little at a time). once your tint is right, apply the mixture to the part via a hvlp spray gun.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-01-11_14-50-23_266.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-01-11_14-51-05_875.jpg
step 3: clean your hvlp and allow the tinted clear to sit on the part for 15-20 mins, during this time mix up some un tinted clear coat and spray it onto the tinted surface.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-01-11_15-10-41_694.jpg
step 4: carefully demask the part and allow it to cure for the recommended cure time
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-01-11_15-42-54_968.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-01-11_15-57-21_548.jpg
note: the more coats of the tinted clear the darker the part will get, spray it lightly so not to get a run. enjoy!!

[KAT-PWR]

What size compressor are you using? I have a 26 gal 4hp. I did my bumper in primer i need to buy the paint i need. Can't wait to add my own tips.
Before; Sand the ugly ass spray bullshit paint off with 80 grit.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/waxball88/100_0690.jpg
Apply body filler to trashed spots, in my case one corner was bent up from the way it was mounted. Since it's fiberglass and is going to get trashed again i decided to just blend the area using 80/180 on a long sanding block and some bondo as there is no crack/flex in the area. The long sanding block can conform slightly to large open surfaces, like the nose section of the bumper, which was also filled.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/waxball88/100_0942.jpg
For the crack on the chin of the bumper, sand the area surrounding with 80/180 grit. I chose to dremel out the middle area of the crack for a good fill in the middle. Tape the crack from the front and fill behind with glass/resin
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/waxball88/photobucket-4836-1326148182265.jpg
Any other areas that are cracked or weak can be strengthened with some glass/resin.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/waxball88/photobucket-4692-1326148208914.jpg
Sorry i don't have a picture right before paint with all the paint stripped/bondo smoothed.
Clean the piece off with soap and water, let dry then de-grease and tac
Use the HVLP gun with proper mix and 50% overlap or so (primer isn't that picky)
Now you'll see where all the fucking pin-holes are. Shit always happens with fiberglass. Hit the little fuckers with some spot putty and 320 grit and they'll be gone in a jiffy.
Spray a bit more primer and viola
After
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/waxball88/photobucket-1887-1325052536772.jpg

[buentellomma]

33 gal 1.5 hp craftsman is what i use........ so did you not read the first line? where is your step by step on what you did to the bumper? how is before and after pictures going to help anyone? :eek3:

[KAT-PWR]

33 gal 1.5 hp craftsman is what i use........ so did you not read the first line? where is your step by step on what you did to the bumper? how is before and after pictures going to help anyone? :eek3:
Nice, what kind of gun are you using? And water trapping system?

I'm currently using in-line desiccant water trap and ebay HVLP guns

[tqstarburst]

Great stuff! You should do individual threads for all of the DIY.

[Purestock240]

very useful thread, thanks

maybe a section on where you get products, when expensive stuff is needed, etc

[Smallblock]

Awesome thread, just in time too with some very useful tips as I'm about to makeshift a paint booth out of my garage to paint my car.
:bigok:

[buentellomma]

Awesome thread, just in time too with some very useful tips as I'm about to makeshift a paint booth out of my garage to paint my car.
:bigok:
my goal of this thread is to provide a way for the DIY'ers to save some money and learn a thing or two :boink:
PM me if you have any extra questions on painting or making a booth

[KAT-PWR]

Awesome thread, just in time too with some very useful tips as I'm about to makeshift a paint booth out of my garage to paint my car.
:bigok:

Make sure you sweep it out real good. And don't paint for a day or so after. I took everything out of my garage and blew out corners with the air chuck, swept the floor 5+times. Waited til the next day sprayed the whole floor down and swept the dirty water out.

When it comes to painting, like most things, cleanliness is next to Godliness. And don't forget a drying system when painting. Moisture will kill you.

[ReLiC]

Awesome thread... and i agree with tqstar, each of your diy guides deserves its own thread.

[buentellomma]

Awesome thread... and i agree with tqstar, each of your diy guides deserves its own thread.

probably right but i did it this way so others can contribute their work as well

[xBtony]

Im even more impressed with the bodywork then I was the paint. haha looks good man, very helpful write up for those tryin to DIY some stuff.

[h2v7]

thread is awesome

[buentellomma]

Im even more impressed with the bodywork then I was the paint. haha looks good man, very helpful write up for those tryin to DIY some stuff.

Lol would you expect less from a bodyman with 8+ years exp and a techincal degree in collision/refinishing? Ill have some good write ups once i start back onn my s13

[xBtony]

Lol would you expect less from a bodyman with 8+ years exp and a techincal degree in collision/refinishing? Ill have some good write ups once i start back onn my s13

I expected less from zilvia. Lol. But seeing as you have more experience then me, glad you did it right haha. Like I said bro nice work.

[g2ic02]

1. Is there a specific temp/humidity you are aiming to spray base coat/clear? 2. Are you wet sanding between coats? 3. Is it best to plan on spraying base and clear in one session? 4. Can you let your base coat cure (for an extended period of time) prior to spraying clear? 5. How do you finish sand your clear coat(how long do you wait, etc..)

[godrifttoday]

33 gal 1.5 hp craftsman is what i use........ so did you not read the first line? where is your step by step on what you did to the bumper? how is before and after pictures going to help anyone? :eek3:


me too! good enough for painting but for constant sanding and stuff, no! hell no! defenitly no!!! haha i like my compressor but i just wish it had a 5hp motor on it. would be sick!

[buentellomma]

1. Is there a specific temp/humidity you are aiming to spray base coat/clear? 2. Are you wet sanding between coats? 3. Is it best to plan on spraying base and clear in one session? 4. Can you let your base coat cure (for an extended period of time) prior to spraying clear? 5. How do you finish sand your clear coat(how long do you wait, etc..)
1- 70* with 30% humidity is perfect, with that said they make paints for different temperatures. I wouldn't paint under 50* and over 90* so somewhere in between. 2- wet sanding is only needed if you mess up and get runs or a lot of trash.3- yes that is ideal to do that, base coat has a 8 hr window if you go over that you must reactivate it by slightly sanding with 1000 grit and then clean the surface again.4- once it has a flat look to it , it is ready for clear. At this point most of the solvents have evaporated from the surface. So without scuff sanding it you have 30 min - 8 hrs to get clear coat sprayed. If you wait that long tack rag the surface prior to clearing. 5- give it atleast a day or so before sanding and buffing. Using 1000 grit sand your runs and trash or orange peel and then go back over it with 1500 grit. This will make buffing much easier, use a high speed buffer and rubbing compound. Only buff a square foot at a time, once that area is done then move on.

[buentellomma]

me too! good enough for painting but for constant sanding and stuff, no! hell no! defenitly no!!! haha i like my compressor but i just wish it had a 5hp motor on it. would be sick!
It would be nice to one of the bigger compressors but my budget is tight so I make do with what I got. The craftsman barely puts out enough air to constantly run my sander for a long time. If I had the money I would love to buy a small rotary screw compressor:2c:

[Darren]

nice work and great idea for helping the community! I might have something to contribute, just have to see if i have enough for a proper how to :D

[g2ic02]

thanks for the reply, i have been looking for a diy on this for a long time.

[initial_jc]

Great write ups

[buentellomma]

thanks for the reply, i have been looking for a diy on this for a long time.
Your welcome!

[KAT-PWR]

Hey man i'm going to be spraying paint soon and i was wondering if you have any advice for spraying paint vs. primer

[twinspool]

awesome thread! I am in the middle of stripping my whole car down and painting engine bay, interior, jams, and exterior been wondering what steps I need to take and materials needed. Keep up the good work! My bud has a hachi that is in need of some body work too

[P-Funk alot]

what causes orange peel.

[buentellomma]

Hey man i'm going to be spraying paint soon and i was wondering if you have any advice for spraying paint vs. primer

Ill go thru my project pictures and see if i have enough of the priming process to do a write up for you. Its basically the same process but its a bit more forgiving if you mess up since it has to be sanded down anyway.

[buentellomma]

what causes orange peel.

So many things cann cause orange peel, its almost impossible to spray and not have some orange peel. Quality of your paint, distance from the surface when you spray, speed you move while spraying, viscosity of the paint( thicker paints tend to orange peel more), and air pressure. So many different issues can cause orange peel, thats why they make sandpaper and buffers

[bxsvx]

Nice job! Wish you were in NY!

[KAT-PWR]

Ill go thru my project pictures and see if i have enough of the priming process to do a write up for you. Its basically the same process but its a bit more forgiving if you mess up since it has to be sanded down anyway.

My question was confusing sorry, i'm looking for tips to spray PAINT not primer

[blueshark123]

The cheapest price i found for online body shop supplies is stockwiseauto.com I also have a 5% off code that is savewise2012 i believe. I actually just found out they are only 10 mins from me so I can do pick ups instead of shipping.

I will still recommend a nice wet sand with 1800 to 2000 grit (correct me if im wrong) at the end with a compound/buff.

Im by no means a body guy I have just been getting into learning how to do bodywork lately. Can you explain how to compund and what tools and brands you would recommend on that. I have been looking into wizards I really like some off their products or i can just get 3m.

I will contribute to the thread when i fix my dash on how to fix cracks. I have done that with great results in the past.
I like to use lord fuzor 152 to fix the crack then sem texture coat. Then finish it off with sem black trim paint. It comes out perfect.

[blueshark123]

oh also any recommendations on inline water filters for the compressor

[buentellomma]

The cheapest price i found for online body shop supplies is stockwiseauto.com I also have a 5% off code that is savewise2012 i believe. I actually just found out they are only 10 mins from me so I can do pick ups instead of shipping.

I will still recommend a nice wet sand with 1800 to 2000 grit (correct me if im wrong) at the end with a compound/buff.

Im by no means a body guy I have just been getting into learning how to do bodywork lately. Can you explain how to compund and what tools and brands you would recommend on that. I have been looking into wizards I really like some off their products or i can just get 3m.

I will contribute to the thread when i fix my dash on how to fix cracks. I have done that with great results in the past.
I like to use lord fuzor 152 to fix the crack then sem texture coat. Then finish it off with sem black trim paint. It comes out perfect.
wet sanding is ok but i have found that dry sanding with 3m 1000grit and higher seems to be better to work with. Buffing and compound usage: i like to use about a inch to a inch and half ribbon of compound, use my pad to spread it out and buff a square foot at a time. You have to keep the buffer moving a bit to keep the temp down or you wiill get burn thru. Ill do a write up when i get around to buffing the hachi. Never used wizards but you cant go wrong with 3m..... fusor products are the best. Inline filters, i just use disposable ones right now

[SMM]

For the most part I agree with your methods.

I do tinting differently. I use a base black and reduce it to desired shade spray on. Just be careful not to reduce it to much or it will react, then clear. A lot easier to do different shades.1 Because if you keep spraying it the way you said to make it darker the clear will eventually run. 2. If you do it my way you can reduce it pretty light and recoat until you get the shade you want (paint dries faster so u can recoat quicker and save clear) 3. They wont look as shiny because you have paint mixed in the clear.

( If you have foggy headlights wet sand outside good with 1000 grit then clear, they will look almost brand new)

Also want to add, there are clears you reduce and clears you do not reduce. I always wet sand final coat in this order (nice cars) 1000,1500,2000,3000. Then hit it with compound and polish. In addition I use 2k primer over body work mostly (thicker) helps give it an even surface, I always wetsand 2k primer with 600 then 800.

Another thing to note is they make different hardeners for clears depending on temps. Slow, Medium, Spot and Panel which is fast.

I know prices vary in different areas but around my area I can get 1 gallon matrix clear with medium hardener for $100 and a 1gallon of Martin Senour Paint for $80(napa) just get a vin with the color you like call dealer get paint code.

If you are on a budget that is your best bet. I work for a body shop and that is what we use on our cheaper jobs and to be honest they look amazing.


I have done side jobs with that clear/paint/ and a harbor freight gun and people didnt believe me because it looked so damn good. I will post up pictures when I get a chance. For the most part its all about getting the clear down good and then a nice wetsand and buff.


A few final notes. Never use enamel. When using metallic paint stir bottom of can VERY GOOD so it mixes evenly and shake, shaking the can alone will not cut it a good portion of the flakes stick to the bottom. 3M products are very good and reasonably priced.

That is all for now.

[buentellomma]

For the most part I agree with your methods.

I do tinting differently. I use a base black and reduce it to desired shade spray on. Just be careful not to reduce it to much or it will react, then clear. A lot easier to do different shades.1 Because if you keep spraying it the way you said to make it darker the clear will eventually run. 2. If you do it my way you can reduce it pretty light and recoat until you get the shade you want (paint dries faster so u can recoat quicker and save clear) 3. They wont look as shiny because you have paint mixed in the clear.

( If you have foggy headlights wet sand outside good with 1000 grit then clear, they will look almost brand new)

Also want to add, there are clears you reduce and clears you do not reduce. I always wet sand final coat in this order (nice cars) 1000,1500,2000,3000. Then hit it with compound and polish. In addition I use 2k primer over body work mostly (thicker) helps give it an even surface, I always wetsand 2k primer with 600 then 800.

Another thing to note is they make different hardeners for clears depending on temps. Slow, Medium, Spot and Panel which is fast.

I know prices vary in different areas but around my area I can get 1 gallon matrix clear with medium hardener for $100 and a 1gallon of Martin Senour Paint for $80(napa) just get a vin with the color you like call dealer get paint code.

If you are on a budget that is your best bet. I work for a body shop and that is what we use on our cheaper jobs and to be honest they look amazing.


I have done side jobs with that clear/paint/ and a harbor freight gun and people didnt believe me because it looked so damn good. I will post up pictures when I get a chance. For the most part its all about getting the clear down good and then a nice wetsand and buff.


A few final notes. Never use enamel. When using metallic paint stir bottom of can VERY GOOD so it mixes evenly and shake, shaking the can alone will not cut it a good portion of the flakes stick to the bottom. 3M products are very good and reasonably priced.

That is all for now.
Thanks for the input, I would like more people to post information as well. Try to add pictures next time. Tinting can be done so many different ways, use whatever works for your project. I have found that spraying base coat onto the plastic tends to make it look more like the rattle can look vs the smoked or tinted lens look. 2k products are a must if you want a quality paint job.:bow:

[SMM]

Thanks for the input, I would like more people to post information as well. Try to add pictures next time. Tinting can be done so many different ways, use whatever works for your project. I have found that spraying base coat onto the plastic tends to make it look more like the rattle can look vs the smoked or tinted lens look. 2k products are a must if you want a quality paint job.:bow:

If you reduce it enough you will not get that look.

Here are some random pics from my cell:

Friends SRT 8:
Painted a lot of stuff black.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/070711134805-1.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/062311103627.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/062311120235.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/063011215936.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/070111220211.jpg
Tinted tails, dirty in pic.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/062811145742.jpg

Supra I helped with:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/032811114002.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/041911195209.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/061011164404.jpg
Not streaks in the hood. Beams on roof.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/070111174123.jpg

350Z 350th Anniversary rims:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/070611190521.jpg

Civic engine bay:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/032511081329.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/032611113353.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/032611113409.jpg

My ZX10R:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/032711225057.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/032711225106.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/042711175731.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/042711175913.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/050711145257.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/051011161154.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/050211221323.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/032611165115.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/032611172247.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/051511162151.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/051411190349.jpg


Jet SKI's:
Before
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/051011162451.jpg
After
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/061211132945.jpg

My GSXR:

Pearl really doesnt show in crappy pics. Looked super nice in person.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/072011221256.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/072311143032.jpg


Not my style but hey money is money:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/servnitup813/051811200422.jpg

[C. Anderson]

^What color are those 350z wheels? Nice work btw.

[P-Funk alot]

ok i have a couple questions.
1. are some colors easier to spray than others
2. is there a change in method for metallic and candy paints
3. have you ever used a prism clear
4. and finally when you use metal flake is that sprayed with the clear.

thanks in advance i plan on painting my car here in the next 2-3 weeks.

[buentellomma]

ok i have a couple questions.
1. are some colors easier to spray than others
2. is there a change in method for metallic and candy paints
3. have you ever used a prism clear
4. and finally when you use metal flake is that sprayed with the clear.

thanks in advance i plan on painting my car here in the next 2-3 weeks.

1 some colors cover easier than others but I don't think any of them spray differently. Make sure when you buy your paint you buy the correct sealer color this will make spraying much easier.
2 yes candy and metallics are hard to spray it takes skill and practice. When spraying metallics they tend to streak or blotch on the surface, to fix this go back over the areas but back your distance from the surface off a few inches more, it should look a bit lighter when your spraying it. When I spray candies I'll do a few coats at different angles on the car because candies will streak and look like crap when your spray clear so this helps make sure there are no streaks.
3 never heard of a prism clear
4 if you spray it with the clear I would do only one coat and then do two coats of normal clear over that. Most of the time you end up sanding and buffing and the last thing you want is metallics in your surface while polishing. Or you can spray it using a clear base coat and then spray clear over it

[Jybfan04]

Best step by step DIY paint thread on here...

There is another one, but doesn't really touch on the body aspect of it..

[buentellomma]

Best step by step DIY paint thread on here...

There is another one, but doesn't really touch on the body aspect of it..

Thanks man, I try to be as detailed as possible without being right there with them. I plan on adding many more posts when I have time to start back on my projects.

[SMM]

IMO CANDY and Silver are somewhat challenging to spray. But I mean if you know what you are doing you will be fine.

[1gr8bar10der]

Subscribed! I'm going to paint my car next month. Glad your thread came in handy :)

[PureRush]

Good stuff very helpful!! What do you recommend for candy paints? Do you have to spray two different base coats then clear coat?

[buentellomma]

Good stuff very helpful!! What do you recommend for candy paints? Do you have to spray two different base coats then clear coat?

When you buy the candy paints they should tell you what base coat goes on underneath .....most likely a light color or some form of gold or silver. So the base goes on first then the candy and then your clear coat. Candy paints are basically a transparent base coat almost like a clear coat

[buentellomma]

How To: Paint JDM AE86 Front and Rear bumpers in your garage
Step 1: Scuff sand the raw plastic bumpers with 320 grit or a red scotch brite pad. Use soap and water to clean the bumpers before hanging them to be painted. After drying the bumpers and hanging them for paint, wipe them with wax and grease remover to clean off any residue.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-10_11-56-51_150.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-10_11-16-24_807.jpg
Step 2: Use a tack rag to remove any dust that may have settled on the plastic( as you wipe them static will built up and attract dust). the bumpers are now ready to be sprayed with a primer sealer. Apply two light coats if you spray it too wet it will run.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-10_11-56-36_558.jpg
Step 3: after allowing the sealer to dry for 20-30 mins, spray the first base coat color on the areas that require ( these bumpers have paint lines already in the plastic) also apply the base coat in light to medium wet coats or it will run or wrinkle.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-10_12-27-40_416.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-10_12-27-30_909.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-10_12-27-15_392.jpg
Step 4: after allowing the base coat to dry for at least an hour ( warmer temp will take less time an hour is a safe timeline) use masking tape to mask off the paint lines in the plastic.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-10_15-13-12_93.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-10_15-13-19_817.jpg
Step 5: spray the black base coat on the rest of the bumper, apply light to medium wet coats. after the black is fully covered, allow the base coat to dry for 20-30mins and then remove the masked areas. once all the masking is removed, it is now ready for clear coat. apply 2-3 coats of clear coat.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-11_17-37-29_766.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-11_17-37-16_589.jpg
:bow:

[upsdude]

I've had to remove large amounts of filler from both quarter panels, and my front fender. should i cover the bare metal with primer first then use filler?

or use filler on the bare metal then primer? i was thinking of using etching primer first just b ecause i don't want to have any problems with the metal rusting.

[buentellomma]

I've had to remove large amounts of filler from both quarter panels, and my front fender. should i cover the bare metal with primer first then use filler?

or use filler on the bare metal then primer? i was thinking of using etching primer first just b ecause i don't want to have any problems with the metal rusting.

its fine to apply bodyfiller to bare metal, rust under the bodyfiller only happens if water is absorbed into the filler. if you are going to work the filler and then prime it ,corrosion wont be an issue. the issue with primer is that the UV rays from the sun break down the primer and will allow water to be absorbed. when you prime it , its best to base/ clear it soon.

[upsdude]

with respect to primer, i was planning to wait a few days for the primer to properly cure and shrink before doing color (found this tip on one of the auto body forums).

so should i go with a regular 2k primer or the thicker primer to help fill the low spots? i want to use as little filler as possible.

[buentellomma]

with respect to primer, i was planning to wait a few days for the primer to properly cure and shrink before doing color (found this tip on one of the auto body forums).

so should i go with a regular 2k primer or the thicker primer to help fill the low spots? i want to use as little filler as possible.

2k primer with about 2-3 coats. you dont want the primer to be thick because when you base and clear it you will be able to see where the primer is under the paint due to the thickness. primer is not designed for filling low spots, when you sanding your bodyfiller, dust some rattle can black on the filler and sand. this will find your low spots and deep scratches. to reduce swelling of sand scratches, use this method( use 36grit to level the filler to the surface, then use 80 grit to finish shaping. apply another thin coat of filler over the area and use 80grit to level it and finish up with 180grit. 180grit or finer is less likely to swell) after priming if you allow it to cure 2-3 days the primer will be good to go. to use less filler you will have to metal work it to its almost perfect. your filler should never be more than 1/4inch thick

[upsdude]

ok thanks! yeah the filler was about 1/2 inch thick :(

i should get some pics but there were holes near the edge of the qp where it meets with the door-you could tell someone used a slide hammer try to pull the dent out. it's in a spot that i won't be able to get with a dolly (first time doing bodywork btw wish me luck lol). at one point i was going to just put an over fender but i'll -try- save the stock metal first

[buentellomma]

ok thanks! yeah the filler was about 1/2 inch thick :(

i should get some pics but there were holes near the edge of the qp where it meets with the door-you could tell someone used a slide hammer try to pull the dent out. it's in a spot that i won't be able to get with a dolly (first time doing bodywork btw wish me luck lol). at one point i was going to just put an over fender but i'll -try- save the stock metal first

the best thing to use is a weld on stud puller/gun. if you have holes in your metal they need to be welded up
Motor Guard JO1000 Magna-Spot 1000 Kit (http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/motor-guard-magna-spot-1000-kit-jo1000-p-11895.aspx)

[upsdude]

ok thanks for the tip. that's the thing that gets me the most though. finding all this hidden damage makes me want to just part what i have and look for a cleaner platform to start over on. i don't want to start spending a bunch of money on tools and stuff that i'm only going to use once. here's what i'm working with:

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss23/ekfanatic/2012-02-19_13-28-02_316.jpg

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss23/ekfanatic/IMG_20120203_184041.jpg

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss23/ekfanatic/2012-02-19_13-28-13_816.jpg


and when you run your hand over that area it's very dimply :P

[buentellomma]

That's a pretty tuff repair for someone inexperienced.... Looks like it was hit pretty hard. That really low spot around the door jam is going to have to be pulled back out. Does the door jam have a kink or buldge in it? If you push on. The metal does it pop?

[upsdude]

the door felt solid last time i checked but i'll look again. for whatever reason that area wasnt pulled out properly (as you can see).

[dpritchard4]

i really want to attempt to spray my bumper (since its black and dosnt match my red car) so can someone give me an idea of exactly what i need to pain the bumper? it would be nice to just walk into napa and ask for everything line by line and get a quote.

[buentellomma]

i really want to attempt to spray my bumper (since its black and dosnt match my red car) so can someone give me an idea of exactly what i need to pain the bumper? it would be nice to just walk into napa and ask for everything line by line and get a quote.
not sure if you can buy automotive paint at napa but heres your list:
pint of the color you need( base coat)
pint of sealer
half gal of clear coat
mixing sticks and strainers
mixing cups
320grit sand paper
wax and grease remover
tack rag
automotive wipes
air compressor
spray gun
respirator
:s101:

[RB180sxChris]

Good thread =)

[GL Chrillz]

what wire would you suggest to weld up some floor board with a hobart 140? I'm only running flux core right now, to go mig I need an adapter to run my paintball co2 tank which I should be able to pick up fairly easily.

[buentellomma]

what wire would you suggest to weld up some floor board with a hobart 140? I'm only running flux core right now, to go mig I need an adapter to run my paintball co2 tank which I should be able to pick up fairly easily.
how thick is the metal your welding in?

[GL Chrillz]

how thick is the metal your welding in?

16g

i know flux core gets a little better penetration but is a lot messier. is it worth the cost to switch over to mig using 100% co2 or just finish this little project with flux core?

[buentellomma]

16g

i know flux core gets a little better penetration but is a lot messier. is it worth the cost to switch over to mig using 100% co2 or just finish this little project with flux core?
.030 wire should be good... Using co2, I'm not a professional welder but I can't remember seeing anyone just using 100% co2 to weld steel or aluminum. Rule normally is 75% argon 25% co2 mix for steel and 100% argon for steel and aluminum only. If you only welding a small area I would just stick with flux but if you have more welding projects in the future go with mig with gas

[ma.jomaa]

Awesome thread, I'll be painting my car in the garage soon and I've never painted a car before your step by stop DIY will definitely come in handy.

[fliprayzin240sx]

I cant remember if I asked you this on Sumospeed already but, do you paint other peoples cars on the side or you only do your own cars? Sucks when you live in an apt.

[buentellomma]

I cant remember if I asked you this on Sumospeed already but, do you paint other peoples cars on the side or you only do your own cars? Sucks when you live in an apt.

Yeah i paint others before mine, im not taking on another project til i get time to get my hatch going again.

[ManoNegra]

Digging this thread
I'm also in the starting stages of painting my car in the garage
I've found the stickies on autobody101 to be pretty helpful
aswel as mcqueenpaint's youtube channel

I have fixed a crack in the rear bumper and sanded it and the valences so far
and started to remove windshield trim
I plan to have the rest of the door trim removed and get started with the body sanding this weekend
I'll try to remember and snap some pics

upsdude - I'd like to check out how your ride comes out if you don't mind.
I'm nearby in Pomona.
Are there any worthwhile gatherings in the area?

[upsdude]

i ended up selling the car. i wanted the body damage fixed the righ way; the qp damage was beyond my capabities and a body shop wanted arouns 1k to fix. ended up getting a low mileage '98 from c.rockett :) unfortunately it has its own issues lol.

horrible experience with a/shop, etc. but i like this car alot more.
review of the shop:

http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/447140-gr-performance-irwindale-ca.html

[ManoNegra]

Sucks to hear about all the shit you went thorugh
hope the new one won't be too bad
but yeah, it's been my experience that no matter how good a car looks
it'll always need some work

[fliprayzin240sx]

Yeah i paint others before mine, im not taking on another project til i get time to get my hatch going again.

I'll definitely hit you up when and if I ever get to repainting the car. I'm down to help prep the car and buy supplies. Just dont have the tools or space to do something like this. I still gotta figure out how I'm gonna get my damn engine swap started.

[dpritchard4]

this thread really helped me touch up my engine bay, but i wish i woulda learned how to blend better from new to old paint (faded paint plus new paint means hard line) but now im spraying my bumper and i have wrinkled paint in one spot.....what did i do wrong???

[buentellomma]

this thread really helped me touch up my engine bay, but i wish i woulda learned how to blend better from new to old paint (faded paint plus new paint means hard line) but now im spraying my bumper and i have wrinkled paint in one spot.....what did i do wrong???

Surface prep more than likely caused it. The new base coat reacted with something underneath. Did you spray over old paint?

[GUS13]

finally a good diy paint write up. ive been looking to do this. the guy who gave me my car had filled some spots with body filler and im tired of looking at random white spots. getting the entire car sprayed in az but this will do for now. :D

[SaNTi]

Definitely lots of good info here.

[dpritchard4]

http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m4c75z5d2K1r0vt7go1_500.png
this is what has happened 2x...ive sanded with 600 grit and used primer first

[buentellomma]

http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m4c75z5d2K1r0vt7go1_500.png
this is what has happened 2x...ive sanded with 600 grit and used primer first

well if it did that with primer under it you have two causes: 1) your reducer to base coat ratio is off meaning too much reducer. 2) your spraying too much on there and the solvents are causing that. The Fix= sand with 320grit or finer to remove the wrinkled paint, lightly spray primer over the area one coat will do, allow it to dry and lightly scuff sand the primer do not sand it off or sand through it, lightly spray your base coat over the area ( it might take 4 or 5 coats to cover it) <- by lightly spraying this over a problem area the chances are less likely to happen again, be sure to allow a few mins between each coat.:wiggle:

[df3kt760]

Great job very informative

[Nickys13]

Doesn't paint wrinkle when the surface is dirty?

[c72c]

Nice work. I'll help out with the thread as I make progress on my truck.
I would like to suggest giving a few tips on masking. I would, but I have no pics. An example (since this bothers me the most) when people do a spot repair and just spray primer after the work... not to hardline the area being primed. Fine line tape is one option, but you can also use the 3/4" tape and fold it over... and tape back from the body work, not right next to it.
Sorry, I just see so many people have primer puzzle pieces, it really bothers me.

Two important tips for anyone doing any of this;
-Body work takes time and patience.
-A paint job is only as good as it's prep job.

Doesn't paint wrinkle when the surface is dirty?

It's possible, but usually it will fish eye if there are any oils on it.

[xh3nry]

Awesome paint job, i wish i had a garage or a booth to paint my car in.

[buentellomma]

Doesn't paint wrinkle when the surface is dirty?

Fish eyes happen when the surface isnt clean most of the time, wrinkles are caused by solvents. The most common wrinkle happens when the new paint reacts with older paint underneath. Also if you spray too much on one area you risk runs or wrinkling. Mixing too much reducer in the base coat will also cause wrinkles.

[g2ic02]

Can someone chime in on guns.(good guns, basic set up, tip size, cleaning, pressure....) thank you.

[buentellomma]

Can someone chime in on guns.(good guns, basic set up, tip size, cleaning, pressure....) thank you.

Well what it really comes down to is are you a paint gun owner or a painter? You can have the best equipment but without the skill you still wont acheive what a skilled painter with a cheap gun can produce. I can spray with whatever you put in my hands, i like to use iwata brand guns ($400 +) with a 1.4 tip for base and 1.8 tip for clear. Devilbliss makes reasonable priced setups that work great. Hvlp guns should spray at 10psi at the cap, around 50psi on the line. Cleaning i break mine down and clean with laquer thinner

[C. Anderson]

If you have a lifting problem like that (wrinkling) you can sand it down and try primer sealer on the primer also. It will help block the solvents in the paint to the primer.

Dirty surface does not cause lifting. Like buentellomma said, it is usually the new base coat reacting with the primer or factory paint. Most times I have problems with lifting on factory basecoats for Hondas when I'm using Nason.

[dpritchard4]

it was deff an issue of reacting with the old paint, i finally kept sanding and sanding back the org paint till i got it to stop...thanks for all the advice...but i still need more.

i was trying to remove the orange peel, so i took 1500 grit and smoothed it down, then followed with 2000, rubbing compound and polishing compound(applied by hand) and i cant get that high luster back, i know i didnt sand through the clear coat, and i layed down 3 wet coats of clear....any ideas???

[silviaks2nr]

You need to machine polish it with a wool pad then foam pad. It wouldn't be a bad idea to go over the whole car with 3000grit first too. I've had the same wrinkle issue when i didn't have a thick enough coat of sealer over 2k after bodywork. It's easy to touch up those spot before you clear if you ever run in to that though. As others have said fisheye is usually due to contaminated surfaces. If you try to shoot something like an engine bay that's not clean with single stage without priming/sealing you will get fish eye for sure. You can mix fish eye eliminator into clear and single stage but it's best not to.

[buentellomma]

it was deff an issue of reacting with the old paint, i finally kept sanding and sanding back the org paint till i got it to stop...thanks for all the advice...but i still need more.

i was trying to remove the orange peel, so i took 1500 grit and smoothed it down, then followed with 2000, rubbing compound and polishing compound(applied by hand) and i cant get that high luster back, i know i didnt sand through the clear coat, and i layed down 3 wet coats of clear....any ideas???
You need somekind of high speed buffer to polish out the clear. They make a 2" buffer that chucks into a drill if your low on cash. Ask the paint supplier about it, if not harbor freight has a decent one pretty cheap

[SuperBlackS14]

I just wanted to say how awesome a thread this is, and to the OP and any posting guides: thanks You so much!

[g2ic02]

Well what it really comes down to is are you a paint gun owner or a painter? You can have the best equipment but without the skill you still wont acheive what a skilled painter with a cheap gun can produce. I can spray with whatever you put in my hands, i like to use iwata brand guns ($400 +) with a 1.4 tip for base and 1.8 tip for clear. Devilbliss makes reasonable priced setups that work great. Hvlp guns should spray at 10psi at the cap, around 50psi on the line. Cleaning i break mine down and clean with laquer thinner

thanks for the response. i know alot of the final product comes down to experience and skill. what i a guess i was wondering is do i need to go out and spend $300-500 or can i get by with a $200 gun. Is the final product going to be noticably different, assuming you have the skill to paint.

[Breitling]

very nice thread. Builds confidence

[buentellomma]

thanks for the response. i know alot of the final product comes down to experience and skill. what i a guess i was wondering is do i need to go out and spend $300-500 or can i get by with a $200 gun. Is the final product going to be noticably different, assuming you have the skill to paint.

If your only going to use it a few times the cheaper gun would be the way to go. Cheaper setup vs high dollar setup : the cheaper gun is not going to last as long and the atomization of the paint some times isn't that great meaning you will use more paint. Honestly if you don't have much exp with spraying save the cash and go with a gun you can afford. You won't be able to tell a difference when you spray.

[ManoNegra]

I would like to suggest giving a few tips on masking.

I found this video to be the most helpful (to me at least) on the topic:
3s4APWNqRGc

the guy's YT channel has a great deal of good information on the subject aswell:

mcqueenpaint - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/user/mcqueenpaint)


Can someone chime in on guns.(good guns, basic set up, tip size, cleaning, pressure....) thank you.

Well what it really comes down to is are you a paint gun owner or a painter? You can have the best equipment but without the skill you still wont acheive what a skilled painter with a cheap gun can produce. I can spray with whatever you put in my hands, i like to use iwata brand guns ($400 +) with a 1.4 tip for base and 1.8 tip for clear. Devilbliss makes reasonable priced setups that work great. Hvlp guns should spray at 10psi at the cap, around 50psi on the line. Cleaning i break mine down and clean with laquer thinner

thanks for the response. i know alot of the final product comes down to experience and skill. what i a guess i was wondering is do i need to go out and spend $300-500 or can i get by with a $200 gun. Is the final product going to be noticably different, assuming you have the skill to paint.

If your only going to use it a few times the cheaper gun would be the way to go. Cheaper setup vs high dollar setup : the cheaper gun is not going to last as long and the atomization of the paint some times isn't that great meaning you will use more paint. Honestly if you don't have much exp with spraying save the cash and go with a gun you can afford. You won't be able to tell a difference when you spray.

The boss has a collection of guns at work and allows us to play with them.
I'm using a cheap HB 1/8 bottom feed gun to shoot primer and it has worked ok for me.
For the base and clear I'm going to use a Finnex 3000 with a 1/4 tip.
There's a DevilBiss StartingLine gun on hand but the reviews I read are mixed.
The Finnex gun seems to be a good choice and value (if you're buying one). All the reviews I read were positive.
And if I'm not happy, there's also an Iwata gun I could try.

Anyhow, I'm undergoing my first DIY job. Still at the primer stage.
(you can see the run on the fender where I sprayed too much primer)

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/5435/img0644zb.jpg

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/3323/img0646m.jpg

[buentellomma]

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/3323/img0646m.jpg
i would love to do a pvc pipe paint booth if i had the room to leave it up, but for someone on a small budget its easier to just hang plastic. The booth looks good where are you planning on placing your intake and exhaust fans?

[silviaks2nr]

A few years ago I painted my car outside in ~90 degree temps. Can't say it was an easy first paint job but it turned out well for what it was, after sanding. I've painted a few cars and many other things since then. It does get fun once you're good at it.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/greenkouki/DSC_1005.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/greenkouki/DSC_1007.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/greenkouki/DSC_1010.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/greenkouki/DSC_1008.jpg

Recent photo- car is very dirty but you get the idea.

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/374/dsc3743m.jpg

[S14TEENZ]

Great stuff in here....very good tips but always remember prep is key. There are things you cant see when primer is applied. When basecoat is appled it all jumps out.


One thing I don't agree with OP is using single stage paint. Maybe for a car yo may not care that much about yes. But not cars for attention. I know you can use single stage urethane paint and then go over with urethane clear. But still single stage is for taxis and shit.

[buentellomma]

Great stuff in here....very good tips but always remember prep is key. There are things you cant see when primer is applied. When basecoat is appled it all jumps out.


One thing I don't agree with OP is using single stage paint. Maybe for a car yo may not care that much about yes. But not cars for attention. I know you can use single stage urethane paint and then go over with urethane clear. But still single stage is for taxis and shit.

Who is using single stage on here? I never use or promoted single stage paint. In the 9 years I have been doing this I have only sprayed single stage garbage twice......

[S14TEENZ]

supplies alone was around $500 but im sure it would be cheaper if you purchased single stage paint. I bought a gallon of atomic orange and half a gallon of black, gallon of clear coat, quart of sealer, and then all the other supplies tapes plastic etc.....

I would not say promoting but it was mentioned.

[ManoNegra]

i would love to do a pvc pipe paint booth if i had the room to leave it up, but for someone on a small budget its easier to just hang plastic. The booth looks good where are you planning on placing your intake and exhaust fans?

I'm not all that happy with it actually
it's flimsy as f**k and difficult to get the drop clothes to stay
I think that screwing pieces of 1x2 wood along the top of the wall and stapling drop clothes to that would be a better way to go
or if I were to build another structure, make it out of 2x4s or something more rigid

the two boxes on the corners you see are 20x20"
the fans/filters fit in there perfectly

masked the car during the weekend
(that was a royal pain in the ass)
and sprayed a coat of build up primer that I need to clean up in a few places before spraying a second coat

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/1213/img0673x.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1289/img0674o.jpg

contemplating buying aerosol cans of primer to get the under side of the wing. thoughts?

[buentellomma]

I'm not all that happy with it actually
it's flimsy as f**k and difficult to get the drop clothes to stay
I think that screwing pieces of 1x2 wood along the top of the wall and stapling drop clothes to that would be a better way to go
or if I were to build another structure, make it out of 2x4s or something more rigid

the two boxes on the corners you see are 20x20"
the fans/filters fit in there perfectly

masked the car during the weekend
(that was a royal pain in the ass)
and sprayed a coat of build up primer that I need to clean up in a few places before spraying a second coat

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/1213/img0673x.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1289/img0674o.jpg

contemplating buying aerosol cans of primer to get the under side of the wing. thoughts?
Rattle can primer is garbage most of the time it will react with the urethane paint. Also to save you from a mess when you spray base coat, place paper on the edge of your masking..... By spraying onto plastic it will flake off when the air pressure hits it and go all over the place. I would take that wing off and spray it that way, it will turn out a lot better.....

[isaac5021]

do the steps work on carbon fiber also i want to paint my hood but im not sure how it will turn out

[ManoNegra]

Also to save you from a mess when you spray base coat, place paper on the edge of your masking..... By spraying onto plastic it will flake off when the air pressure hits it and go all over the place.

even with the stuff that is made for automotive masking?
that's what I've seen used in YT videos and what I have on the front of the car


I would take that wing off and spray it that way, it will turn out a lot better.....

I would if I could but one of the bolts that holds the wing on the trunk was rigged by the previous owner and it just spins in place... wont' come out :ughd:


on another note
have any tips on masking/painting door handles - maybe pics?
I don't really want to remove them
car will be a weekend/track slut after all

[PureRush]

What's a decent priced spray gun to hook up to my air compressor? Also I want to paint my whole car pearl white. I was thinking 3 coats of primer (maybe more if it doesn't look solid), 3 or 4 coats of base with pearl, and 3 or 4 coats of clear. Is that too many coats all together? Of course I'll be dry sanding the primer and wet sanding after. Also what's the best type paint to use? I'm not looking for a show quality finish since I'll be painting my Daily Driver.

[buentellomma]

What's a decent priced spray gun to hook up to my air compressor? Also I want to paint my whole car pearl white. I was thinking 3 coats of primer (maybe more if it doesn't look solid), 3 or 4 coats of base with pearl, and 3 or 4 coats of clear. Is that too many coats all together? Of course I'll be dry sanding the primer and wet sanding after. Also what's the best type paint to use? I'm not looking for a show quality finish since I'll be painting my Daily Driver.
Way too many coats ! 2 good coats of primer over repair areas then block the, with 320 grit, 1 coat of primer sealer over the whole car this will cut down on coats needed for base coat, usually 2 to 3 coats for base, 1-2 coats of the pearl coat, then 2-3 coats of clear. Only use this method if the car hasn't been painted before, if it has you need to remove the paint down the factory ecoat or bare metal.
even with the stuff that is made for automotive masking?
that's what I've seen used in YT videos and what I have on the front of the car




I would if I could but one of the bolts that holds the wing on the trunk was rigged by the previous owner and it just spins in place... wont' come out :ughd:


on another note
Havel any tips on masking/painting door handles - maybe pics?
I don't really want to remove them
car will be a weekend/track slut after all
Trust me it's happened many times to me before, you might get lucky once or twice but it will low off into your paint once it's dry. 18" paper is the safe way to go then plastic. That sucks about the wing..... Only way now is to cut the nut off or break the wing lol..... Masking door handles.. If you dont want to remove them which I recommend to remove if possible, mask the whole handle as tight as possible then take a razor and tightly trim the tape around the handle do not let it touch the surface of the car you will have a hard line .

do the steps work on carbon fiber also i want to paint my hood but im not sure how it will turn out
are you wanting to clear coat the hood of apply base coat? If just clear coat wet sand the hood with 800-1000 grit paper, clean with wax and grease remover and tack rag, then spray your clear. For base coat, follow same steps as painting a car on here

[PureRush]

When and what grit should I use to sand each layer? Wet or dry?

[g2ic02]

can any one show pictures and steps used to fix common flaws while paint. (running paint, dirt, fish eyes....)

if you notice a flaw in between coats, do you try to look whole car over for flaws and fix between each coat??. ideally you would like to not have problems, but do you only have your flash period(8 hours) to fix them. If you are approaching the end of your flash time would you spray a 2nd coat to a majority of the car, rather than have to sand the whole car/clean/tack rag the car.

if you do make repairs: how would you clean the area to continue painting.

sorry for all the questions. thanks in advance

[buentellomma]

can any one show pictures and steps used to fix common flaws while paint. (running paint, dirt, fish eyes....)

if you notice a flaw in between coats, do you try to look whole car over for flaws and fix between each coat??. ideally you would like to not have problems, but do you only have your flash period(8 hours) to fix them. If you are approaching the end of your flash time would you spray a 2nd coat to a majority of the car, rather than have to sand the whole car/clean/tack rag the car.

if you do make repairs: how would you clean the area to continue painting.

sorry for all the questions. thanks in advance
Sorry I don't have any pictures of issues while painting.... I rarely have anything more than a small run in the clear coat. Yes you would want to look over the whole car between coats to identify issues. No you can wait longer than 8 hrs but the 8hr window is for having to scuff it before moving on. If you go over the window time you must scuff sand the base coat before spraying clear. You do not have to recoat if your within or after the allotted time frame, only if you have to repair the area. Scuff it clean it clear coat it. Clean the repaired paint area with wax and grease remover and a tack rag.... Get use to tack ragging more than anything else.
When and what grit should I use to sand each layer? Wet or dry?
If removing the paint layers use 180 grit on a DA... It will take you forever to hand sand or wet sand all the layers off. Remove the paint layers before working body work or priming

[buentellomma]

even with the stuff that is made for automotive masking?
that's what I've seen used in YT videos and what I have on the front of the car




I would if I could but one of the bolts that holds the wing on the trunk was rigged by the previous owner and it just spins in place... wont' come out :ughd:


on another note
have any tips on masking/painting door handles - maybe pics?
I don't really want to remove them
car will be a weekend/track slut after all
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/hawkintruckexample.jpg
alright this is an old project picture to use as my example:
the black arrows is what i was talking about with your masking. Notice i am using masking place closest to the paint and then plastic after it to cover the areas not being painted. This is to prevent wet paint from being sprayed onto the plastic sheeting. When the wet coat is sprayed onto plastic and drys it flakes off. The paper keeps this from happening. The white arrows is where i masked with paper the areas that i knew was going to get a lot of paint applied. The red arrow is where i was in a hurry and just threw some plastic over the wheels. Some of the base coat overspray flaked off when i was clear coating and caused a good bit of sanding and buffing for me. Hope this helps :2f2f:

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/5854_1026688044136_1733363644_51795_3613851_n.jpg
this is the only picture i can find with door handles being masked, most of the time i pull them out. Mask it tightly and then trim with a razor

[silviaks2nr]

Manonegra you really need to pull the wing off- whatever it takes. You will really regret it if you don't. I would try to get a dremel tool with a cutting wheel in there to lop it off or just really yank on it and pull the stud out with pliers. It's easy enough to fiberglass or epoxy another stud back in.

[ManoNegra]

Hope this helps :2f2f:


it does, thanks

Manonegra you really need to pull the wing off- whatever it takes. You will really regret it if you don't. I would try to get a dremel tool with a cutting wheel in there to lop it off or just really yank on it and pull the stud out with pliers. It's easy enough to fiberglass or epoxy another stud back in.

yeah, I get what you are saying and I probably will regret it
but at the same time it's already taking way longer than I intended to
it was meant to be a quick job to get the track car to be one color
next thing I know I'm removing mirrors, trim, weatherstripping, etc.... :ugh:

[isaac5021]

I want to make my cf hood black so just sand primer sand seal base and clear

[buentellomma]

I want to make my cf hood black so just sand primer sand seal base and clear

Correct , since your going with a color, scuff sand with 320 grit or finer sand paper until the surface is dull looking. Prime sand again with 320 grit clean seal base coat and clear. If you run into any issues just post on here and I'll walk you through it :bigok:

[ManoNegra]

On the topic of paint guns while contemplating a HF gun to shoot primer
I came upon this (long ass fuck) interesting video:

lRL3Fcjzotw

cliff notes:
cheap HF paint guns can be modded to perform like nice expensive guns by:
- getting o-rings for the cup
- taking the gun apart and cleaning/removing the cheap silicone sealer used on various threads that can potentially chip off and clog the gun
- applying teflon tape to all the threaded parts upon reassembly.

any thoughts on this?

I may do this on a the cheap primer gun I plan on picking up.

[buentellomma]

On the topic of paint guns while contemplating a HF gun to shoot primer
I came upon this (long ass fuck) interesting video:

lRL3Fcjzotw

cliff notes:
cheap HF paint guns can be modded to perform like nice expensive guns by:
- getting o-rings for the cup
- taking the gun apart and cleaning/removing the cheap silicone sealer used on various threads that can potentially chip off and clog the gun
- applying teflon tape to all the threaded parts upon reassembly.

any thoughts on this?

I may do this on a the cheap primer gun I plan on picking up.
im indifferent on using the HF guns for long term. $20 is nice for just a few uses but i wasnt happy with the way they atomize the paint vs my quality guns. For someone just starting out or on a slim budget i dont see anything wrong with it. I personally wouldnt invest in a HF gun but thats just my opinion.

[ManoNegra]

I stopped by the HF by work last night and picked up their 2 gun kit

HVLP Spray Gun Kit (http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html)

sure enough the quality of the gun isn't all that great
I spent a little time today at work using a veritex wheel and taps clean up threads and obvious burrs found thought the gun
installed the 1.8 needle and nozzle in preparation for primer
already the 'feel' of the gun has improved

[Geadien]

Ok I did my primer but I guess I have these little marks in it what grade sand paper should I use to get that out. New to the whole paint game so sorry if this is a stupid question.

[buentellomma]

Ok I did my primer but I guess I have these little marks in it what grade sand paper should I use to get that out. New to the whole paint game so sorry if this is a stupid question.

Can you post a picture? Sand with 320 grit of finer.... Doesn't matter wet or dry sanding.

[Geadien]

Ok I think i have fixed the problem!

[Ineedastarter]

Big up, mate! I have been meaning to step into the world of auto body/paint for years now and I'm finally following through this summer.

My knowledge is limited to using the miracle system for pulls and dings. I'll be going through your posts as I go along. Any chance of some youtube videos?

Thanks for all the tips/walkthroughs!

[buentellomma]

Big up, mate! I have been meaning to step into the world of auto body/paint for years now and I'm finally following through this summer.

My knowledge is limited to using the miracle system for pulls and dings. I'll be going through your posts as I go along. Any chance of some youtube videos?

Thanks for all the tips/walkthroughs!
I dont have any youtube videos of my work but i know there are a lot of them out there.

[ManoNegra]

question(s):
I'm blocking the build up primer on the car and pieces right now.
How smooth do they need to be?
smooth to the touch or also to close inspection?
wet sanding with a foam block and 320 grit btw

also, I've read that a sealer coat of primer is optional.
Is it? What's to be gained/lost by shooting base over the blocked car?

thanks in advance

[S14TEENZ]

question(s):
I'm blocking the build up primer on the car and pieces right now.
How smooth do they need to be?
smooth to the touch or also to close inspection?
wet sanding with a foam block and 320 grit btw

also, I've read that a sealer coat of primer is optional.
Is it? What's to be gained/lost by shooting base over the blocked car?

thanks in advance

Well shooting base over a blocked car will help fill in any little imperfection.

Are you using lacquer primer?

Or like a epoxy primer?

[buentellomma]

question(s):
I'm blocking the build up primer on the car and pieces right now.
How smooth do they need to be?
smooth to the touch or also to close inspection?
wet sanding with a foam block and 320 grit btw

also, I've read that a sealer coat of primer is optional.
Is it? What's to be gained/lost by shooting base over the blocked car?

thanks in advance
The surface needs to be both smooth to the touch and also needs to be visually inspected for pits,orange peel, and any other surface defects. Other than the 320 grit sanding marks you should see a completely smooth surface. When blocking sand at a 30* angle one way and come back over it the opposite way at the same angle. Sealer is not required but it is highly encouraged. The sealer allows the base coat to cover better and seals off anything underneath from reacting with the fresh solvents. If you ever look down the side of a show car and notice the mirror like finish that is what it takes, properly block sanding the surface will give you a smooth flat surface without waves. Its a lot of work and if your just going to track whore it out i wouldnt spend that much time trying to make it perfect.
Well shooting base over a blocked car will help fill in any little imperfection.
No........... It...........Does........... Not............ base coat is not used for filling imperfections. If fact it brings out all the surface issues some colors are worse about it than others.

[ManoNegra]

Well shooting base over a blocked car will help fill in any little imperfection.

Are you using lacquer primer?

Or like a epoxy primer?

epoxy

The surface needs to be both smooth to the touch and also needs to be visually inspected for pits,orange peel, and any other surface defects. Other than the 320 grit sanding marks you should see a completely smooth surface. When blocking sand at a 30* angle one way and come back over it the opposite way at the same angle. Sealer is not required but it is highly encouraged. The sealer allows the base coat to cover better and seals off anything underneath from reacting with the fresh solvents. If you ever look down the side of a show car and notice the mirror like finish that is what it takes, properly block sanding the surface will give you a smooth flat surface without waves. Its a lot of work and if your just going to track whore it out i wouldnt spend that much time trying to make it perfect.

No........... It...........Does........... Not............ base coat is not used for filling imperfections. If fact it brings out all the surface issues some colors are worse about it than others.

ok, that's what I was leaning towards
the panels are smooth to the touch but if I look close I can see some 'orange peel' in some spots
I will spend some time but won't go crazy trying to get the panels perfect since it is a track project

I think I will shoot a coat of sealer.

thanks again

[Dany]

wat kind of welding machine u have? mine sux and i wana get one that welds like that! where u did the red corolla cancer spot tacking

[buentellomma]

wat kind of welding machine u have? mine sux and i wana get one that welds like that! where u did the red corolla cancer spot tacking

Lincoln mig with gas

[huffandpuff00]

what is the smallest size compressor i should buy (HP/Gal) to run a DA to sand my car?

[buentellomma]

what is the smallest size compressor i should buy (HP/Gal) to run a DA to sand my car?

I have a 33 gal and it barely I mean barely operates my DA sander for extended amounts of time. So I would say 33 gal or bigger

[huffandpuff00]

I am looking at getting a 60 gal, just didn't know if that was over kill. thank for the reply!

[buentellomma]

How to buff clear coat:
Step 1: after your clear coat has cured for more than 8 hours you can begin sanding out orange peel/ trash/ runs/ sags.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_05-31-35_139.jpg
Step 2: there are two ways to sand the clear coat, wet sanding and dry D/A sanding. On this bed cover i did both but i finished with wet sanding. When wet sanding keep water on the surface at all time to ease in the removal of clear coat. If your wet paper does not have enough water it will begin to clog up. Start sanding with 1000grit until the surface is smooth then go back over it with 1200 grit then 1500 grit and finally 2000 grit. Use a 45* angle when sanding then when switching to the next grit go in the opposite direction. This will help with removing the course grit sanding marks.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-07-16_850.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-18-51_880.jpg
Step 3: Once you have removed the surface issues, you are now ready to use rubbing compound and a buffer. I like to use 3m and a 3m waffle buffing pad.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-20-54_784.jpg
Step 4: A good rule to follow is only buff a square foot at a time. I like to lay out about a foot long strip of compound.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-21-53_754.jpg
Step 5: Take the pad and spread out the compound so it doesnt sling out everywhere.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-22-15_676.jpg
Step 6: Once you start buffing keep the buffer moving side to side and dont let it sit in once spot for too long. This will heat up the surface and you will burn through the clear coat.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-24-53_502.jpg
Step 7: this is what it looks like if you buff one square foot at a time. Buffing like this you are less likely to miss spots.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-52-04_820.jpg
Step 8: Once your part is buffed it is ready to go. Polish compound is optional sometimes ill use it depending on the color.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_17-01-58_423.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_17-57-28_237.jpg

[ze12o]

A lot of good info in this thread. Thanks to everyone that posted.

[Arsenal240sx]

If Im going to paint over the oem paint after sanding does it matter if I use an epoxy or urethane primer? Ive read to use both. Epoxy first and then a urethane to block. How does this sound? The paint is OE 20+ years old. Lol

[Mannykiller]

Painted my engine bay with custom ceramic paint from my local auto paint store.
Cleaned the engine bay as much as my patience would allow.
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy325/mannykiller/FD%20Build/IMAG1825.jpg
masked everything off using tin foil and plastic bags with a little tape here and there
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy325/mannykiller/FD%20Build/IMAG1846_zpsec349816.jpg
Laid down some basic spray can Self Etching Primer
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy325/mannykiller/FD%20Build/IMAG1847_zps735f8401.jpg
Next was the Silver base coat. Also I did not sand anything at all. But I did remove all the paint off the flat surfaces via a wire wheel and my angle grinder
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy325/mannykiller/FD%20Build/IMAG1857_zpse8a173ff.jpg
then I put down the Pink
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy325/mannykiller/FD%20Build/IMAG1858_zpsdeecd9a0.jpg
final coat of pink..I put 3 down
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy325/mannykiller/FD%20Build/IMAG1859_zpsbadd1e97.jpg
and then Cleared it with an acrylic spray can clear
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy325/mannykiller/FD%20Build/IMAG1864_zps5c70ebd9.jpg
End result
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy325/mannykiller/FD%20Build/IMAG1865_zps9b4e4d40.jpg

[s14boy]

End result
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy325/mannykiller/FD%20Build/IMAG1865_zps9b4e4d40.jpg

i like your "tubs" did you always plan to leave it like that? i think its cool to show the suspension of the car when you open your hood but dont you think your going to get a lot of shit in your engine bay either way it looks good to me just curious on your thoughts behind it.

-Mike

[Mannykiller]

Hey mike
There actually isn't any work done to the "tubs" at all. They come like that straight from the factory. I'm not so worried about stuff getting in there. But I have contemplated making some bolt on covers just to keep major debris out. We'll see.

[tapdeznutz]

How to buff clear coat:
Step 1: after your clear coat has cured for more than 8 hours you can begin sanding out orange peel/ trash/ runs/ sags.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_05-31-35_139.jpg
Step 2: there are two ways to sand the clear coat, wet sanding and dry D/A sanding. On this bed cover i did both but i finished with wet sanding. When wet sanding keep water on the surface at all time to ease in the removal of clear coat. If your wet paper does not have enough water it will begin to clog up. Start sanding with 1000grit until the surface is smooth then go back over it with 1200 grit then 1500 grit and finally 2000 grit. Use a 45* angle when sanding then when switching to the next grit go in the opposite direction. This will help with removing the course grit sanding marks.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-07-16_850.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-18-51_880.jpg
Step 3: Once you have removed the surface issues, you are now ready to use rubbing compound and a buffer. I like to use 3m and a 3m waffle buffing pad.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-20-54_784.jpg
Step 4: A good rule to follow is only buff a square foot at a time. I like to lay out about a foot long strip of compound.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-21-53_754.jpg
Step 5: Take the pad and spread out the compound so it doesnt sling out everywhere.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-22-15_676.jpg
Step 6: Once you start buffing keep the buffer moving side to side and dont let it sit in once spot for too long. This will heat up the surface and you will burn through the clear coat.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-24-53_502.jpg
Step 7: this is what it looks like if you buff one square foot at a time. Buffing like this you are less likely to miss spots.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_15-52-04_820.jpg
Step 8: Once your part is buffed it is ready to go. Polish compound is optional sometimes ill use it depending on the color.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_17-01-58_423.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_17-57-28_237.jpg

You should definitely use the Polish Compound or i forget the name of the compound but it will help get the swirl marks out that the Rubbing Compound leaves, especially on dark colors.

[buentellomma]

If Im going to paint over the oem paint after sanding does it matter if I use an epoxy or urethane primer? Ive read to use both. Epoxy first and then a urethane to block. How does this sound? The paint is OE 20+ years old. Lol

Use a 2 part urethane primer and a 2 part urethane sealer before spraying base coat

[buentellomma]

You should definitely use the Polish Compound or i forget the name of the compound but it will help get the swirl marks out that the Rubbing Compound leaves, especially on dark colors.

Most of the time its a good idea to finish with a polish compound with a polishing buffer pad. What i do to not have to use polish compound is after i buff with the rubbing compound ill spray a bit of water on the surface and buff with that over the area. This uses the broken down rubbing compound in the pad for a finer finish...... Old school trick

[tapdeznutz]

Most of the time its a good idea to finish with a polish compound with a polishing buffer pad. What i do to not have to use polish compound is after i buff with the rubbing compound ill spray a bit of water on the surface and buff with that over the area. This uses the broken down rubbing compound in the pad for a finer finish...... Old school trick

Ah, very nice. I will remember that when I get ready to paint my car in the next couple of months. Thanks for the tip.

[05subysti]

man so much great info, wish i had the $$ to paint my car.

[tapdeznutz]

man so much great info, wish i had the $$ to paint my car.

Actually, its not that bad. I figured on using the AutoZone Duplicolor paint in the Quart cans for about $25each. I already have my own HVLP paint gun and access to a large enough air compressor(friends house). I figure I will need approximately 2-3 quarts of base coat(color) and clear coat for my entire car + sandpaper, masking tape and other misc. items. Color is currently white but i want to do midnight blue, its my fav. Then color sand and buff. I can't wait.

[afracer]

I've painted 1 car and lots of body panels, so nowhere near the experience level of the OP. I was using 400 grit wet sand on 2K high build primer and panels came out as smooth as glass prior to shooting the clear, but after clearcoat, I was sometimes seeing sanding lines after all was said and done. I prefer hand sanding body work and primer with wet paper if possible, it reduces the chances of sanding too far or making streaks in filler from clogged paper, and with wet sanding you can almost do your whole car with one sheet of sandpaper lol. What took care of the sanding lines for me was wet sanding the primer with 600 grit before shooting the base coat. Once I did that everything comes out looking pretty now.

[silviaks2nr]

Actually, its not that bad. I figured on using the AutoZone Duplicolor paint in the Quart cans for about $25each. I already have my own HVLP paint gun and access to a large enough air compressor(friends house). I figure I will need approximately 2-3 quarts of base coat(color) and clear coat for my entire car + sandpaper, masking tape and other misc. items. Color is currently white but i want to do midnight blue, its my fav. Then color sand and buff. I can't wait.

That stuff is just spray paint without the aerosol. Use a real basecoat + clearcoat and you won't regret it. Economy clears are like $120/gallon with catalyst and cheaper factory basecoat colors are like $180/gallon w/ reducer.

[tapdeznutz]

agreed on the 600 grit. i had the same issue with 400grit then going to basecoat. i think that only works if you were going to apply a coat of sealer before basecoat.

[tapdeznutz]

That stuff is just spray paint without the aerosol. Use a real basecoat + clearcoat and you won't regret it. Economy clears are like $120/gallon with catalyst and cheaper factory basecoat colors are like $180/gallon w/ reducer.

I was talking to a Paint Supply shop and he rough quoted me around $300-$350 for 2 stage, base and clear or single stage for about $280-$300. He also commented that he thought the single stage would last longer or sometime like that. I really am only using the AutoZone brand because it is super fast dry since i will be doing my spraying just outside my garage since its all cluttered up and i have no where else to spray the car. And again the $100-$150 price is not bad either.

[silviaks2nr]

I was talking to a Paint Supply shop and he rough quoted me around $300-$350 for 2 stage, base and clear or single stage for about $280-$300. He also commented that he thought the single stage would last longer or sometime like that. I really am only using the AutoZone brand because it is super fast dry since i will be doing my spraying just outside my garage since its all cluttered up and i have no where else to spray the car. And again the $100-$150 price is not bad either.

For all the work you're doing it's worth it to spend a few extra bucks, really. You can always wetsand out the trash in your clearcoat... I've done a bunch of garage/outside paint jobs and they turned out looking $3-4k jobs with just a bit of elbow grease afterwards. Here's the latest car I've painted outside in a pretty bare bones "paint booth"

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/501658-chriss-s14-kouki-sr-clean-street-car-project.html

This is a very good step by step for painting: Perfect Paint Job (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm) always follow manufacturer specs and instructions to the T. SPI products are excellent and also very budget friendly, and the dude at SPI knows his stuff!

[afracer]

I was talking to a Paint Supply shop and he rough quoted me around $300-$350 for 2 stage, base and clear or single stage for about $280-$300. He also commented that he thought the single stage would last longer or sometime like that. I really am only using the AutoZone brand because it is super fast dry since i will be doing my spraying just outside my garage since its all cluttered up and i have no where else to spray the car. And again the $100-$150 price is not bad either.

Also, 2 stage paints don't really dry any slower, you can touch base/clear sometimes within 20-30 mins depending on how heavy you sprayed it. Seriously, DO NOT use the single stage cheap Autozone paint, it does not last longer. Spend a TINY bit of extra $, or wait until you can afford it and go with a 2 stage. They have different grades of it, what I do is save money by buying a cheaper base color paint, and then sink the money into the best clear coat I can afford. The clear is the business end of your paint job that takes all the beating from the elements anyway, so you can kinda cheap out on the base coat/color. Also, if you go to a paint shop instead of Oreillys/Autozone, a lot of times they will have mess ups or returns that they'll sell much cheaper. You can also just ask them for the cheapest 2 stage color/clear they've got, and it'll still be 10x better than the cheap rattle can in a quart garbage.

[tapdeznutz]

Also, 2 stage paints don't really dry any slower, you can touch base/clear sometimes within 20-30 mins depending on how heavy you sprayed it. Seriously, DO NOT use the single stage cheap Autozone paint, it does not last longer. Spend a TINY bit of extra $, or wait until you can afford it and go with a 2 stage. They have different grades of it, what I do is save money by buying a cheaper base color paint, and then sink the money into the best clear coat I can afford. The clear is the business end of your paint job that takes all the beating from the elements anyway, so you can kinda cheap out on the base coat/color. Also, if you go to a paint shop instead of Oreillys/Autozone, a lot of times they will have mess ups or returns that they'll sell much cheaper. You can also just ask them for the cheapest 2 stage color/clear they've got, and it'll still be 10x better than the cheap rattle can in a quart garbage.

Thanks for the rreminder about the paint returns. I totally forgot about that. I will just need to make time and visit my local paint store. Guess you right for another $100 or so i can get automotive grade paints. Well i am still finishing up bodywork anyways so i have sometime to figure it out. thanks for inputs.

[silviaks2nr]

Thanks for the rreminder about the paint returns. I totally forgot about that. I will just need to make time and visit my local paint store. Guess you right for another $100 or so i can get automotive grade paints. Well i am still finishing up bodywork anyways so i have sometime to figure it out. thanks for inputs.

Be careful about some of the "goof up" paints from the paint store. While the paint itself may be really cheap the activator/reducer you have to use for it can be super duper expensive and can cost more in the long run. If you have paint mixed at napa or sherwin automotive get the crossfire/martin senour/dimension base as it's generally pretty cheap. Some colors are a lot more expensive though obviously depending on the pearls and tints. Like AFracer said it's all about the clear too. I find that the SPI universal high solids clear is the best bang for your buck and it buffs easily unlike a production clear which is perfect if you have to paint outdoors and sand later.

[Juantwo3]

i love this thread!!!!

[spooled240]

Great stuff in here....very good tips but always remember prep is key. There are things you cant see when primer is applied. When basecoat is appled it all jumps out.


One thing I don't agree with OP is using single stage paint. Maybe for a car yo may not care that much about yes. But not cars for attention. I know you can use single stage urethane paint and then go over with urethane clear. But still single stage is for taxis and shit.

Who is using single stage on here? I never use or promoted single stage paint. In the 9 years I have been doing this I have only sprayed single stage garbage twice......

What is the drawback to using single stage paint? Less shine?

I know with single stage paint you don't have to worry about clear coat flaking off and you can buff if it ends up looking dull over time.

my car's clear coat started flaking off so I'm pretty turned off by 2-stage paint right now :facepalm:

[silviaks2nr]

Most OEM reds are single stage. Other solid colors used to be but manufacturers are moving away from that. Single stage is a good option for solid colors but generally costs a lot more for a quality product vs. a cheaper base and a good clear clear of that same color.

Metallic single stage paints are obviously not good as there is little depth to the final finish and you can not sand and buff the paint after it's cured. Whatever trash is in there or orange peel you have to live with or repaint the whole car.

[ManoNegra]

What is the drawback to using single stage paint? Less shine?

I know with single stage paint you don't have to worry about clear coat flaking off and you can buff if it ends up looking dull over time.

my car's clear coat started flaking off so I'm pretty turned off by 2-stage paint right now :facepalm:

color will fade over time faster than a proper - key word 'proper' - 2 stage job.
Specially on a red car like ours from what I've been told.

[spooled240]

what kind of high quality paint are you guys using? Dupont?

If I do decide to do a 2-stage I'm gonna add extra clear

[buentellomma]

what kind of high quality paint are you guys using? Dupont?

If I do decide to do a 2-stage I'm gonna add extra clear

Extra clear is not the answer, its the quality of the product and proper paint prep that will give you a long lasting finish. Also you have to take care of the clear coat if you want it to last, environmental issues will cause damage ( acid rain, dessert heat, areas of extreme cold and snow etc...) As far as good products, i personally use the dupont system but there are many other good brands. I feel PPG and the dupont systems are the best

[spooled240]

have you guys tried this foam masking product? It's used to fill in gaps to protect door jams and other areas from overspray.

PDF:
http://www.nortonautomotive.com/uploadedFiles/SGnortonautomotive/Documents/Foam-Masking-Tape-8278.pdf

[Exige]

i like your "tubs" did you always plan to leave it like that? i think its cool to show the suspension of the car when you open your hood but dont you think your going to get a lot of shit in your engine bay either way it looks good to me just curious on your thoughts behind it.

-Mike

Nicely done! Clean!

[buentellomma]

have you guys tried this foam masking product? It's used to fill in gaps to protect door jams and other areas from overspray.

PDF:
http://www.nortonautomotive.com/uploadedFiles/SGnortonautomotive/Documents/Foam-Masking-Tape-8278.pdf

Yeah man thats pretty old stuff, i dont know many shops that use it because the cost out weighs the benefit. Its easier to stuff paper or roll the edge of tape over. Great product just not worth the money

[silviaks2nr]

Also if you're doing your own paint job you might as well take off all the panels and spray the jams and undersides of hood/trunk/doors to have a really great finished job. Sure this isn't cost effective for a shop needing a quick respay (a shop would charge $3500-5k for this detailed kind of job) but if we're talking DIY it's worth your own effort even if you aren't doing a full color change!

[Jersthecool]

So what would my steps be when it comes to plastic pieces? I picked up some oem side skirts and they're red and looks like they sprayed primer over the paint and it's flaking off a bunch. What kind of grit should I sand it down with and do I have to use an "adhesion promoter" before the primer because it's plastic not metal? Do you have any advice on how to match the paint to my car because you can tell the car has obviously been painted before so I'm not sure the current color it is or if it's just been resprayed the same color so I don't want it to come out a different color.

[denian_cellphone]

Definitely subscribed to this thread, thanks alot guys! :bow:

[buentellomma]

So what would my steps be when it comes to plastic pieces? I picked up some oem side skirts and they're red and looks like they sprayed primer over the paint and it's flaking off a bunch. What kind of grit should I sand it down with and do I have to use an "adhesion promoter" before the primer because it's plastic not metal? Do you have any advice on how to match the paint to my car because you can tell the car has obviously been painted before so I'm not sure the current color it is or if it's just been resprayed the same color so I don't want it to come out a different color.

Sanding plastic sucks, i normally use 320 grit to remove paint anything courser than that will cause the plastic to get fuzzy looking. Alright the proper way to deal with plastic goes like this: scuff sanded plastic gets wiped with a anti static solution, then a flexible primer gets sprayed onto it, then base coat and clear. Most of the time i just use primer surfacer and hit it will a coat of sealer before base coat because thr flexible primer is not cheap. From my exp i havnt had problems not using the flex primer. As far as color matching, its not ever going to be a perfect match because of the difference in substraights even if you paint the whole car together the plastic will have a slightly different shade than the metals.

[spooled240]

what if you used a dark primer color? I used white primer for my bumpers and they came out noticeably lighter than the rest of the car

[buentellomma]

what if you used a dark primer color? I used white primer for my bumpers and they came out noticeably lighter than the rest of the car

Your best bet if your unsure which primer color to use is ask the paint shop what primer the company calls for to get the desired color. Most of the time you cant go wrong with the standard light gray.

[silviaks2nr]

Use a primer sealer over everything so you get a uniform color to base over. Black is good for darker colors obviously as it's easier to cover. For something like a bright red or yellow you would definitely want to use a white primer sealer. For stripping bumpers I almost always use a chemical stripper, but do a test first. ALWAYS wipe bumpers with a waterborne plastic prep before priming!

[tapdeznutz]

what if you used a dark primer color? I used white primer for my bumpers and they came out noticeably lighter than the rest of the car

Depending on your base coat color, is what will help determine the primer color. For example if you are doing silver base coast you will want a light gray primer. But yes, your standard light gray primer can not go wrong.

[Gizmo_S13]

Awesome thread!

[Arsenal240sx]

At work we carry the Valspar line of paint products. We dont have any urethane based primers but have a ton of DTM 2K primers. Does it really matter the type of primer I use? According the label it can be used as a high/medium build filler and as a sealer depending on the amount of reducer I guess. If I stick to one brand of paint/primer I should be fine right?

[buentellomma]

At work we carry the Valspar line of paint products. We dont have any urethane based primers but have a ton of DTM 2K primers. Does it really matter the type of primer I use? According the label it can be used as a high/medium build filler and as a sealer depending on the amount of reducer I guess. If I stick to one brand of paint/primer I should be fine right?

If its a 2k primer( 2k means it has two parts a base and a hardner) its a urethane or epoxy product. If your looking to have a smooth surface use a primer surfacer and sand it smooth, then hit it with a sealer prior to basecoat. If the primer can be used as both a surfacer and sealer its probably not a high quality product. But that doesnt mean not to use it, i personally buy primers and sealers seperate. I dont have any exp spraying valspar... I thought they only make house paint... Which ever brand you use its normally best to stick with the same systems primer thru clear coat

[Trinidrift3]

any tips or steps on how to straighten a dented metal fender/quarter panel? both are easily accessible.

[tsahlin489]

any tips or steps on how to straighten a dented metal fender/quarter panel? both are easily accessible.

Was just about to ask this myself: I have a pretty fair sized dent mid-passenger quarter panel. Doesn't need to be perfect as it's a drift car, but i'd love to at least get it shaped back out somewhat. I have heard it can be as simple as putting a deflated basketball up there and inflating it to pop it out, but I assume there has to be a better way. Tips?

[s14croom]

can you get access to the inside of the quarter panel where it is dented? Usually the only dents that just "pop out" does not have a crease or body line running threw it. If it has been dented pretty bad and been pushed in awhile theres a good chance the metal has streched. I will try and gets some pics tommorow at work to help with this thread about straighting metal, i am a certified Painter and autobody tech so any questions that may not get answered i will do my best to help

[Hoonigan19]

very nice forum !

[s14croom]

Sorry guys, i didnt get into any metal straightning yesterday, was fixing a new aftermarket hood for a charger, made by extreme dimensions, wow that thing was a basket case

[buentellomma]

any tips or steps on how to straighten a dented metal fender/quarter panel? both are easily accessible.

Pictures would help... Hammer and dolly usually is the best way to metal finish dents if you can get access. If its a dent in a quarter panel without access to the backside, a weld on stud gun is your best choice. It welds a small stud to the surface and you attach a small slide hammer to it.

[di-devol]

Got any tips on bringing a carbon hood back to life? Really faded, no shine whatsoever. Should I just wet sand and re clear?

[buentellomma]

Got any tips on bringing a carbon hood back to life? Really faded, no shine whatsoever. Should I just wet sand and re clear?

Yeah you could wet sand with 1200 grit and spray a few coats of clear on it

[di-devol]

Yeah you could wet sand with 1200 grit and spray a few coats of clear on it

Got it, I'll do before and after pics for fun.

[Terd40sx]

Thanks man this is going to help me tons

[ManoNegra]

Update:

yeah, I get what you are saying and I probably will regret it
but at the same time it's already taking way longer than I intended to
it was meant to be a quick job to get the track car to be one color
next thing I know I'm removing mirrors, trim, weatherstripping, etc.... :ugh:

I think I jinxed myself when I said that...

to follow up (I hate it when people don't post follow ups of stuff they said they're going to do):

I painted the car in the garage
and sure enough it wasn't perfect job
but for a first time diy garage job it wasn't a total disaster either
just the typical dust and bugs in the paint, orange peel, etc

but

I wasn't satisfied

small items like valences, fenders and sideskirts came out pretty good

but for something larger like the car body
I really NEED a better compressor (more cfm) and a moisture removal system to do an adequate job in the garage

the worse part was that I didn't remove masking tape within 30 mins after painting as you're supposed to (found that out later)
so that when I pulled the tape (a couple of days later) it pulled some paint from edges :mad:

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/313229_10151135679043764_1766844564_n.jpg

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/431456_10151187994903764_1680363335_n.jpg

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/419949_10151187995053764_1834497187_n.jpg

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/284888_10151187996008764_2125170356_n.jpg


so I got annoyed and walked away from the car for a bit
eventually I decided that, fuck it,
I'll remove the quarter windows, wing, etc
and strip/prep the car again and have it sprayed in a booth

In midst of this I found out a friend runs a paint and body shop near me
so I sent the car his way to get a cheap 2 stage paint job

I should be getting the car back this weekend

So in conclusion I think that a garage diy paint job is a very duable proposition
pending you have the RIGHT tools at your disposal

it also depends on your expectations
I'm sure that job I did would have been fine in the eyes of many people
specially since this will be a track/weekend car and the main goal was to get it all in one color

I don't think I would try it again (messy and time consuming)
I think that stripping and prepping the car to have sprayed in a booth is way to go

[silviaks2nr]

Sorry you were left with a bad taste in your mouth after your first experience :-/ You definitely want to take out all the trim if you ever try again. It's good to take out the quarter windows too but it's a PITA. If you want it to look like a $4000 job though, you need to.

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag68/meatydeer/IMG_0420_zpsc7f7f120.jpg

I have a really cool small painting project (vintage motorcycle) that I took a lot of photos of and I'll post in a few days after I finish up with some tips.

[Irresistible]

Not sure if mentioned anywhere in the thread, but what fillers are good to use for what purposes? I'm about to start doing my own bodywork and paint, as well as some work on a few friends' cars. Would like to know which fillers to use for what. From what I keep hearing/reading, regular red Bondo isn't all that great.

Also, when actually painting how many coats of everything do I need/want to get a nice finish?

-Primer
-Primer Sealer
-Base Coat
-Clear Coat

[ManoNegra]

Sorry you were left with a bad taste in your mouth after your first experience :-/ You definitely want to take out all the trim if you ever try again. It's good to take out the quarter windows too but it's a PITA. If you want it to look like a $4000 job though, you need to.


I did learn quite bit so I don't consider it a bad experience
frustration if anything at knowing that my compressor at home wasn't up to the task
especially knowing I could have done it at work where we have industrial air with AC units and water traps

[navans14]

I did learn quite bit so I don't consider it a bad experience
frustration if anything at knowing that my compressor at home wasn't up to the task
especially knowing I could have done it at work where we have industrial air with AC units and water traps

what size is your compressor?, if you don't mind me asking.
as i'm about to start doing body work and painting my car as well and want to know if my 25gal, 4hp compressor will do the job or if i should borrow my buddies comp.

[240Cali]

my cars at the shop currently getting an engine rebuild and ive decided in the mean time I wanna prep the car buy the paint and jst pay a shop to do spray it... simple first question do you just buy fiberglass primer and spray it on top of F.G fenders hood kit? or do you put a layer of body filler on it?? what Grit should i start sanding the regular paint? thanks for your time..

[ManoNegra]

what size is your compressor?, if you don't mind me asking.
as i'm about to start doing body work and painting my car as well and want to know if my 25gal, 4hp compressor will do the job or if i should borrow my buddies comp.

I have the basic Craftsman 30 gallon 1.5hp compressor in the garage
you need to check the cfm requirements of your gun and that of your compressor

~20 cfm is typically what's required and is what most 5hp compressors can do
so your 4hp could be up to the task
the tank size might be an issues since your compressor would need to constantly run to supply air generating heat and moisture in the line


I would want to upgrade to a 5hp dual stage compressor with a 60 gallon tank (or a couple of 30 gallon tanks in line)
and a moisture trap system - copper or steel 3/4" or 1" piping with moisture traps and filters if I were to attempt painting a car again
something like this:

http://www.legacygarage.com/images/Pictures/Paint%20Booth/PICT0080.JPG

http://www.hotrodders.com/journal_photos/00027704/12800750910.jpg

http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p512/jansentim/venturi_zps5fe3e9fb.jpg

[s14croom]

5hp 60 gallon compressor is the smallest i would try to go with, hvlp gun will do ok with that, a 4 hp 30 gallo, would do spot jobs, but at an all over paint job it would work itself to hard and creat alot of moisture. Get a good water trap, cheapos dont collect all the moisture.

[s14croom]

still trying to figure out how to post pics, i have some info on sheetmetal work and the stud puller for dents that was talked about

[buentellomma]

5hp 60 gallon compressor is the smallest i would try to go with, hvlp gun will do ok with that, a 4 hp 30 gallo, would do spot jobs, but at an all over paint job it would work itself to hard and creat alot of moisture. Get a good water trap, cheapos dont collect all the moisture.

Not true, every bit of the work i have posted on this thread has been done with a craftsman 33 gal 1.5 hp all in my garage. However a 60gal would be the best choice if i had the extra cash. As far as moisture control i use a inline filter attached to the hvlp gun. Super cheap like a dollar or so and works good. A full out inline filter system cost way too much for the average diy user on here. To paint with the smaller compressors you need a decent hvlp and keep the psi leaving the tank between 40-60 psi and then adjust your air pressure at the gun with a regulator

[buentellomma]

Update:


http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/284888_10151187996008764_2125170356_n.jpg


two things went wrong here: 1. Your air pressure and fluid ratio was off( too high or not enough) thats why it looks textured 2. your masking was too close to the painted surface so when you pulled tape it pulled the paint up. I dont demask under the clear is somewhat cured.

Not sure if mentioned anywhere in the thread, but what fillers are good to use for what purposes? I'm about to start doing my own bodywork and paint, as well as some work on a few friends' cars. Would like to know which fillers to use for what. From what I keep hearing/reading, regular red Bondo isn't all that great.

Also, when actually painting how many coats of everything do I need/want to get a nice finish?

-Primer
-Primer Sealer
-Base Coat
-Clear Coat
Body fillers: what i like to use is Rage Gold filler( $50ish a gal) or Platium filler ($50ish gal).... these are my personal choice
-Primer -2 medium wet coats over a surface prepped with 180grit or finer
-Primer Sealer- normal one coat over a surface prepped with 320grit or finer
-Base Coat- 2-3 coats depending on the color
-Clear Coat - 2-3 coats

my cars at the shop currently getting an engine rebuild and ive decided in the mean time I wanna prep the car buy the paint and jst pay a shop to do spray it... simple first question do you just buy fiberglass primer and spray it on top of F.G fenders hood kit? or do you put a layer of body filler on it?? what Grit should i start sanding the regular paint? thanks for your time..
if your not worried about the waves in the fiberglass showing through, primer surfacer and block sand with 320 grit ready for base coat. If your looking for show room look, block sand the fiberglass with 180grit, find the low spots, apply body filler, block sand smooth then spray primer surfacer and block sand again... repeat if still not to your standards

[waxball88]

any tips or steps on how to straighten a dented metal fender/quarter panel? both are easily accessible.

The only real way to yield good results with this is to buy a stud gun and slide hammer. Ill try and get pictures but my friend had a 240 that had a 12" by 8" pushed in 3" section on his rear quarter, slide hammer/stud gun and a lot of bondo later could never tell it was there
However a fender a decent set of body working hammers you can probably get it decent enough to bondo
Recently painted this wing and valance, wasn't very happy with the finish, so I sanded down and am getting ready for a second coat.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/waxball88/35522D60-3C3B-439F-8F22-28F06E81C34C-8037-000003C9E41D5062_zps84054d08.jpg
Here is a trashed out drift bumper I fixes both side had 6" cracks all the way down, chunk of the pass side lip missing that I had to completely reconstructhttp://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/waxball88/A8C31663-5786-4EA0-9E2F-8D24877F8611-1493-00000098A94DF856_zps9a3cbe0e.jpg
When working with glass there is no easy way, you grind out everything that's cracked out, tape the front side, do the glass work on the back side, use fiberglass jelly and block the front out.

[s14croom]

Not true, every bit of the work i have posted on this thread has been done with a craftsman 33 gal 1.5 hp all in my garage. However a 60gal would be the best choice if i had the extra cash. As far as moisture control i use a inline filter attached to the hvlp gun. Super cheap like a dollar or so and works good. A full out inline filter system cost way too much for the average diy user on here. To paint with the smaller compressors you need a decent hvlp and keep the psi leaving the tank between 40-60 psi and then adjust your air pressure at the gun with a regulator

I didn't say it couldn't be done, but hey everyone has different opinions, I was just coming from a production stand point, and I know were not talking about production. I do agree with the rage and platinum bondo that is also what I like to use also, what type of base/clear are you using?

[buentellomma]

Here are some of my past projects done with small compressors in a garage

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/018-1.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/017.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/0086_zpsf75afd35.jpg Harley painted in my garage with a 33 gal 1.5hp

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/5854_1026687284117_1733363644_51792_1515136_n.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/5854_1026688164139_1733363644_51798_2382814_n.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/072_zpsd079c662.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/5854_1026689244166_1733363644_51803_7535685_n.jpg
Toyota painted in my garage with a 6 gal air compressor ( do not attempt)

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_17-01-58_423.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2012-08-11_17-57-28_237.jpg
Ford 150 bed cover painted in my garage with 33 gal 1.5hp

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2011-11-11_09-47-34_613.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_10-32-14_987.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_15-19-42_991.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/2011-12-26_16-55-54_749.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-11_17-37-16_589.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/kiels%20ae86%20project/2012-02-11_17-37-29_766.jpg
86 toyota corrolla JDM coversion project done in my garage with 33 gal 1.5hp

[buentellomma]

I didn't say it couldn't be done, but hey everyone has different opinions, I was just coming from a production stand point, and I know were not talking about production. I do agree with the rage and platinum bondo that is also what I like to use also, what type of base/clear are you using?

First of all, its not BONDO, its polyester resin based filler or body filler..... no professional collision repair technician refers to body filler as BONDO Also this is a DIY thread not a production thread so most of these guys do not have the cash to afford a 60gal with complex water removal/dryer systems so everything i have posted on here can be done by the average user. I normally use the Dupont Chroma base system or their ecomony line Nason

[Boss_S14]

What's the best way to get out small dents in the door? About the size of golf balls

[buentellomma]

What's the best way to get out small dents in the door? About the size of golf balls

Hammer and dolly metal finishing if you can get to the backside of the skin, if not weld on studs/slide hammer would be the other way to go. Filling it with body filler is the wrong way

[ManoNegra]

Not true, every bit of the work i have posted on this thread has been done with a craftsman 33 gal 1.5 hp all in my garage. However a 60gal would be the best choice if i had the extra cash. As far as moisture control i use a inline filter attached to the hvlp gun. Super cheap like a dollar or so and works good. A full out inline filter system cost way too much for the average diy user on here. To paint with the smaller compressors you need a decent hvlp and keep the psi leaving the tank between 40-60 psi and then adjust your air pressure at the gun with a regulator

I tried several types of inline filters with similar results
gun was a Finnex 3000 - not the best but still a decent gun
and I did adjust the pressure as you say - ~50 psi in tank and fine tune with regulator at gun
small parts - fender, valences - were fine, prolonged use was the problem; compressor would run constantly and generate moisture in the line

two things went wrong here: 1. Your air pressure and fluid ratio was off( too high or not enough) thats why it looks textured 2. your masking was too close to the painted surface so when you pulled tape it pulled the paint up. I dont demask under the clear is somewhat cured.


It wasn't as textured as the picture would have you believe (poor lighting and cell phone pic)
and yeah, my masking could have been better.



ps - I'm impressed and somewhat incredulous at the work you generate out of your garage.

[s14croom]

The work you do looks good, but since my 10years or painting and body experience is not professional enough I'll quit posting in your thread, again your work does look good.

[silviaks2nr]

If you use an air/water separator and break down the car into parts and paint the parts separately it's fine to use a small compressor. I've shot a lot of cars with my 1.5hp 25 gallon 4.0cfm @90 psi compressor and I've never had fisheye or hazing etc. I don't know what the big deal is there. Just adjust your gun tip, spray pattern, and air pressure according to the products you're using and let the compressor keep going between coats or panels. One thing I do want to point out whoever is asking the steps for priming/bodywork you always need to epoxy prime bare metal before you put any 2k primer or sealer down! It's okay to use filler then do the epoxy but just make sure you cover all bare metal before moving on to primer and topcoats!

[buentellomma]

I tried several types of inline filters with similar results
gun was a Finnex 3000 - not the best but still a decent gun
and I did adjust the pressure as you say - ~50 psi in tank and fine tune with regulator at gun
small parts - fender, valences - were fine, prolonged use was the problem; compressor would run constantly and generate moisture in the line



It wasn't as textured as the picture would have you believe (poor lighting and cell phone pic)
and yeah, my masking could have been better.



ps - I'm impressed and somewhat incredulous at the work you generate out of your garage.

This is all i use when i paint, a inline filter and a regulator. If i can ever get a two car garage ill invest in a better water removal system and better compressor

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/879686001744lg_zps95265f66.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/879686002918lg_zps085f4293.jpg
here are a few other options that are easy to find at lowes and affordable
Shop Kobalt 3/8-in Air Filter at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_221014-47120-SGY-AIR9_4294813345__?productId=3414724&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=)
Shop Kobalt In-Line Desiccant Air Dryer at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_127959-47120-SGY-AIR15_4294813345__?productId=3414022&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1)

[g2ic02]

When spraying something with a metal flake would you recommend having all the panels on the car, to prevent miss matched coloring? Also do you clear all the jams, or how do you clear around edges so you don't get flaking clear around edges

[g2ic02]

Also can anyone chime in on how s13 window trim is attached.

[RichieRichJPN]

Hopefully the OP can fill me in on this...
I went to a PPG distributor locally a couple months back and I was picking their brains on certain aspects of painting.
One of my questions were on how to go about using primer over metal vs. over the base coat or factory primer. It seems that you used one primer based on your first few posts; however, the person at the shop said that there were two different primers: one primer for metal; and a separate primer for laying over everything else. Is that right??

[buentellomma]

Hopefully the OP can fill me in on this...
I went to a PPG distributor locally a couple months back and I was picking their brains on certain aspects of painting.
One of my questions were on how to go about using primer over metal vs. over the base coat or factory primer. It seems that you used one primer based on your first few posts; however, the person at the shop said that there were two different primers: one primer for metal; and a separate primer for laying over everything else. Is that right??

Yes they are right, epoxy primer goes over bare metal first then primer surfacer. Honestly most of the time if its just a few small bare metal spots i just hit it with the primer surfacer.

[RichieRichJPN]

Thanks for the reply.
What's the reason for this? Does it have to do with how the primer bonds with the surface?

[buentellomma]

When spraying something with a metal flake would you recommend having all the panels on the car, to prevent miss matched coloring? Also do you clear all the jams, or how do you clear around edges so you don't get flaking clear around edges

It is easier to paint with most of the panels on the car except the bumpers, i normally hang those like they would be displayed on the car so the color matches. Yes you have to clear the jams , masking and prep work is key to your paint sticking and not flaking around the edges

[buentellomma]

Thanks for the reply.
What's the reason for this? Does it have to do with how the primer bonds with the surface?

Epoxy protects the metal surface from corrosion, primer surfacer provides the base coat a suitable surface to attach to

[Trinidrift3]

can you get access to the inside of the quarter panel where it is dented? Usually the only dents that just "pop out" does not have a crease or body line running threw it. If it has been dented pretty bad and been pushed in awhile theres a good chance the metal has streched. I will try and gets some pics tommorow at work to help with this thread about straighting metal, i am a certified Painter and autobody tech so any questions that may not get answered i will do my best to help

this was right after in happened in october. i bought a hammer and dolly kit and started to try to bang it straight yesterday. its tough to get next to the edge of the tail light. i'm just not sure if i should try and hammer it as straight as possible and then bondo/sand to get the right shape, or if its more complex than that.
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/Trinidrift3/001-1.jpg
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/Trinidrift3/004-2.jpg
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/Trinidrift3/005-1.jpg

[Duke89]

Subscribed for a later date lol

[RichieRichJPN]

Epoxy protects the metal surface from corrosion, primer surfacer provides the base coat a suitable surface to attach to

So if for example, I sanded down a rear quarter panel and a significantly large area was cut down to the metal, how would you go about prepping it if you had to use the epoxy primer?
Would you simply use the epoxy primer on the metal area and use the primer surfacer over the other areas?
Or would it be advisable to use the epoxy primer over the metal, set to dry, then use the surface primer over everything including the epoxy primered area?

Thanks for the replies!

[silviaks2nr]

Just spot the bare metal with 2 coats of epoxy then shoot the surfacer over the whole car. It also works fine to shoot the whole car with epoxy then sand with 220 grit and get a good key then 2k prime directly over the sanded epoxy. A lot of restoration shops do this when it's not really a "scuff and spray" production type job. This way you avoid the surfacer all together too. With some product manufacturers you can just shoot the 2k directly on top of epoxy without sanding and without using a surfacer, it just kind of depends.

I can't stress enough how good this following process is, especially if you are painting outside or in a makeshift paint booth. Perfect Paint Job (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm)

[buentellomma]

this was right after in happened in october. i bought a hammer and dolly kit and started to try to bang it straight yesterday. its tough to get next to the edge of the tail light. i'm just not sure if i should try and hammer it as straight as possible and then bondo/sand to get the right shape, or if its more complex than that.
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/Trinidrift3/001-1.jpg
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/Trinidrift3/004-2.jpg
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/Trinidrift3/005-1.jpg

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx280/buentellomma/zilvia_zpsb6512713.jpg

You sir have a mess on your hands fixing this without any collision repair exp.
Ok, the area i circled in green: This area concerns me because of possible core support damage because of the way the grill is out and the headlight is out of place. It could just be the fender bracket the headlight is attached to is bent but you never know with this type of collision. Do a measure of your engine bay to check, measure from the first hinge bolt on one side to the opposite side front fender bolt, repeat to the other side making a "X" measurement. the distance should be the same or very close on both sides, if its off you have structure damage.
The area i circled in blue: this can be metal finished out but its not going to be easy. You can use a small 2x4 wood block and use it to wedge between the pushed in areas and slowly work it back out or use the wood and a hammer to push bend brackets back straight. You can also use the 2x4 and place it on the inside of the fender edge inside the engine back and use a hammer to pound that front edge straight, same with the corner of the hood. Place the 2x4 on the upper rail where the hood would cover and close the hood on the block where the corner is bent and light put pressure down, use a body hammer if needed. This repair will use a good bit of filler to get it looking right, make sure your filler is not more than 1/8" thick

[7jpat]

Just spot the bare metal with 2 coats of epoxy then shoot the surfacer over the whole car. It also works fine to shoot the whole car with epoxy then sand with 220 grit and get a good key then 2k prime directly over the sanded epoxy. A lot of restoration shops do this when it's not really a "scuff and spray" production type job. This way you avoid the surfacer all together too. With some product manufacturers you can just shoot the 2k directly on top of epoxy without sanding and without using a surfacer, it just kind of depends.

I can't stress enough how good this following process is, especially if you are painting outside or in a makeshift paint booth. Perfect Paint Job (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm)
so if i prime the whole car with epoxy prime i cant just sand it and do base coat then clear ? is epoxy not good enough that i have to use another primer over that ?

[silviaks2nr]

You could, but I really doubt the car is going to be that straight. But yes, some epoxies work as primer sealers too. The reason you do 2k primer as well as the epoxy is so you have something you can block down to get it super flat before applying the sealer or basecoat.

[7jpat]

so a 2k urethane primer is the sealer ? and on fiberglass body kit i'm guess i dont need to epoxy it , or would it be good to anyway

[silviaks2nr]

2k is a filler primer and there are different builds that lay to a certain thickness. A sealer is something you put on top of the 2k after you've sanded it.

[buentellomma]

so a 2k urethane primer is the sealer ? and on fiberglass body kit i'm guess i dont need to epoxy it , or would it be good to anyway

The sealer seals off everything underneath from the basecoat. Sometimes old paint or primer will react with the solvents in the basecoat and cause issues

[7jpat]

OK thanks so its
Epoxy
2k
Sealer
Base
Clear
If I'm doing the entire car how much of each would I need

[buentellomma]

OK thanks so its
Epoxy
2k
Sealer
Base
Clear
If I'm doing the entire car how much of each would I need

Depends on the size of the car, S13? Probably 2 qts of epoxy, primer, 1 qt sealer, gal basecoat, and gal clear coat

[7jpat]

Depends on the size of the car, S13? Probably 2 qts of epoxy, primer, 1 qt sealer, gal basecoat, and gal clear coat

s13 u nailed on the head thank u

[g2ic02]

When do you determine using body filler vs a glaze. What grit must you sand before using the glaze.

[buentellomma]

When do you determine using body filler vs a glaze. What grit must you sand before using the glaze.

I only use glaze puddy to fill pen holes in the body filler, its not designed to be used like body filler. If you want to use it, only use it for very light dents or pen holes in filler. Use 180 grit

[g2ic02]

So you can put body filler over kitty hair? I thought you were supposed to put it directly on bare metal for good adhesion. Also also when doing your rust repair under your side glass, it appears as though you used a lap joint rather than a butt joint, any insight on why you chose that. Sorry for my millions of questions, I appreciate all the help

[buentellomma]

So you can put body filler over kitty hair? I thought you were supposed to put it directly on bare metal for good adhesion. Also also when doing your rust repair under your side glass, it appears as though you used a lap joint rather than a butt joint, any insight on why you chose that. Sorry for my millions of questions, I appreciate all the help

Yes body filler can go over kitty hair, it has to or it will look like crap when primed. Yes i went with a lap joint on that repair. Best choice would have been a butt with backing weld but i was having a hard time getting the fitment right ( i bent the insert with my hands and a body hammer over a piece of wood) so to save time i lightly bent the cars metal edges down and then did a lap weld so when i ground down the welds it would be a smoother transition

[babowc]

How difficult is it to match relatively new paint?
I have an 05 silverstone metallic s2000.
I need to rework/spray the fenders.

I've done two cars so far, but never paint matched...

[buentellomma]

How difficult is it to match relatively new paint?
I have an 05 silverstone metallic s2000.
I need to rework/spray the fenders.

I've done two cars so far, but never paint matched...

Pretty difficult for someone without the exp of matching and blending paint. That color is tough to match, if your painting both fenders, you will need to spray the hood,bumper, and maybe the doors depending on how close you basecoat towards them.

[dpritchard4]

what type of filler do you use on the urathane bumber? i bounced off the guard rail the other night and it took a chunk out of the bumper. and where can i get the filler (i know many of you do not like the chain stores "advance, pepboys...", but the closest paint store is 40 miles away). thanks

[collegekid]

When you paint, do you paint with all of the panels on the car in one shot? How long is your typical paint time starting from when you lay down the first coat of epoxy primer to the final coat of clear?

I ask this because I assume having a smaller compressor with a weaker motor would probably mean just longer wait times. Ideally I want the best compressor I can get that would plug into the standard 120v household line (I don't know anything about electricity please excuse my noobiness), a decent tekna gun, decent lines, filters, moisture system, just some clear plastic cloth draped in the garage whether it is around some pvc pipes or just hanging off the walls.

I was planning on spending a complete day (from about 7 am to late at night) to paint the exterior. The interior and engine bay don't really matter and I could care less if it looks off. I guess having a 60 or 80 gallon compressor would just make it quicker to paint because you don't have to stop as much for the compressor.

[buentellomma]

what type of filler do you use on the urathane bumber? i bounced off the guard rail the other night and it took a chunk out of the bumper. and where can i get the filler (i know many of you do not like the chain stores "advance, pepboys...", but the closest paint store is 40 miles away). thanks

If your missing a chunk of plastic then you need two part epoxy repair kit. I like the fusor line of products. Plastic repair then a light coat of body filler to smooth everything out, got a write up on the first page to walk you thru it.

[chuki.s13.coupe.]

Is this Fixable? Or worth it?