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View Full Version : Amps, Spealers, Bridge, Ohms?!?!


weirdstyles.net
12-26-2003, 04:33 PM
Sony XS-L1290P5 (x2)
500 Watt RMS
1600 Watt Max

If powered by one sub I need a Stable Mono 2 Ohm, great now how mutch power?

The sony XM-D1000P5 has 1000Watt x1 @ 2ohms, will that properly power both subs? Or would I be under cutting it?

tommy_thrash
12-26-2003, 07:02 PM
what are they dual 4 ohm voice coil subs?
I install car audio so i thought i could help (to be honest i hate it but the work pays good and I can help all my friends that like it, Im just a lonely drifter in a small "mountain pass" town of morons!):) just let me know what you have and i will see if i can help!

nightwalker
12-26-2003, 09:05 PM
The pentagon shaped sony P5 is the "matched" amp for those sony subs. I know exactly what you're talking about. I work for the Good Guys selling car stereo everyday. I don't think those subs are DVC, but I hate selling them, so I can't remember exactly. But as a general guide, if you join two subs SERIES, which is taking + on sub one to - on sub two, and taking sub one's - to the amp, and sub two's + to the other side of the amp, you will increase the ohm load that the amp sees. For example, 4ohm subs hooked up in SERIES will let the amp see 8ohms. But if you bridge the amp, then it drops back down to 4 ohms.

If you bridge the subs PARRALLEL, which is taking the - of both subs, and joining them, as well as joining the + of both subs, then taking a lead from each -, and + side, and taking it to the amp. By bridging the subs parrallel, you drop the ohm load, for example 4ohm to 2ohm. Now if you bridge the amp, you end up with a 1ohm load at the amp, which is a big no no for most amps.

This should help you figure out what you need to do. I think those subs are 4 ohm, so just join them in series, and the amp I believe is a mono, so you should be fine.

weirdstyles.net
12-26-2003, 10:12 PM
Sub:

Size: 12 inch
Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 1.00 cu.ft.
Rec. Ported Box Dims: 1.50 cu.ft.
Free Air Usage: not recommended
Sensitivity: 89 dB
Frequency Response: 18-2,500 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 500W
Peak Power Handling: 1600W
Impedance: 4 ohms subwoofer wiring options

Amp:
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 500W x 1 @ 4 ohms
Bridged RMS Power: 1000W x 1 @ 2 ohms
THD at Rated RMS Power: 0.2%
Speaker Level Inputs: Yes
Preamp Outputs: No
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 10 dB
Frequency Response: 20-300 Hz
Channel Separation: n/a
Signal to Noise Ratio: n/a
Fuse Rating: n/a

Im trying to learn this, so if some BASIC explanations would help...please

nightwalker
12-26-2003, 11:30 PM
yeah, connect the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE sides of both subs together, then take a lead from each joined pair to the amp, and that will get you the 1000 watts you are looking for.

ohms is a resistance value, the higher the resistance, the less power.

RMS is what you should be looking for when you buy amps and speakers, not MAX power like so many companies like to advertise. An amp can hit 1500 watts once in a hour play time, and if the company records that, they can advertise it. As a general rule of thumb, a good amp is about a dollar a watt. For example, the JL audio 1000/1 amp. 999 for 1000 watts RMS. Now compare that with the advertised Kenwood, or Sony amp that also says 1000watts in big letters. They're about 250-399 each.

frequency response is the speakers ability to reproduce sound within the scpectrum. 20hz, 40hz, being bass, 15khz being treble, and the stuff in between is mids, low treble, mid bass, etc.

I really can't explain frequency response, and distortion levels (THD)

But the info I supplied should get you by.

andrave
12-30-2003, 03:26 PM
http://www.bcae1.com/