View Full Version : S14 Won't turn off
Mikey444
12-03-2011, 03:44 PM
So Yesterday I encountered a problem with my car not wanting to start. I checked the connections and the postive cable was a bit loose, so i messed with it for a bit with no results. I then noticed that the plastic red box was melted a bit on the top portion of it. From what I could tell these two wires in this plastic box go to the fuse box. The top wire was the one that had the burn marks on it, so i figured this is why nothing comes on but the chime. So after tapping at it for about five mins, everything comes back on. so i drive it home and let it sit. So today I go outside to tinker with it, figuring its the bad connection with the terminal of the white/red wire being burned. So i cut the terminal off of each of those two white/red wire and splice them into the battery terminal along with the starter cable. While messing around in the fuses box I notice that the EGI fuse was blown so i replaced it. So i go to start the car and it starts fine, problem fixed right, NO. The car would not turn off, So i immediately go pull the egi fuse and the car shuts off. So I experiment with it, I take the EGI fuse out and the car starts fine and turns off fine. Put the fuse back in and the car starts but won't turn off. I looked in the FSM and i see that the EGI fuse has the ECM, MAF and something else running off of that fuse. What stomps me is the car seems to run fine without that fuse being in there but that wouldn't make sense, seeing as the maf gets it's power from that fuse along with the computer. My questions are does it matter that i spliced all of these cables together and has anyone had this issue with the EGI fuse?
tacotaco
12-03-2011, 08:15 PM
well first off the egi fuse is for smog purposes, meaning if you were to take it out like you did the car can still run fine without it. ex taking out all smog gear. and the two wires you spliced together might have caused a switch to be bypassed , most likely the ignition. just my 2c keep looking.. gl
Mikey444
12-03-2011, 08:59 PM
Someone else said this on another forum. The thing is though, the two wires that I spliced together were already together on the factory connection. The reason why I spliced them together was because the red plastic box, which these wires sit in was melted and i figured that was my issue. I will post a picture of what the two wires looked like together from factory. But thank you for your input, its a shot in the dark but i will try it tomorrow, when i get to work. http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQx1D5R2BIhkl2T_HTmQVa7HH6urnaIg kCZFuMk5xaREYfkeFayrw4gWsxRhttp://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRSNRa-28mzXP3n5HK_qGZekapCTjAPPQ2bo_MKkeHsI_VGiRrhGrCwW6 3e
That is the plug Iam talking about that has the two White/Red wires going into it. It just seemed like a fancy way of connecting the two wires together from factory. The photo below shows the two White/Red wires, one goes to the alternator fuse [75amp] and the other goes to the other fuses in the fuse box. By the way this isn't on my car, these were pictures I found.
http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz196/forcednduction/Terminal2.jpg
Question also when the ignition switch is turned to off does this cut power to the eccs relay?
rcdad123
12-03-2011, 11:41 PM
your ignition switch could be sticking to the on position.
justinbyrant
12-06-2011, 02:13 AM
check the other end of the wires, if the little red box was getting so hot it was melting then the other end of the wires could have done the same thing inside your fuse box and melted 2 wires together which could be giving constant power to something like your ignition system
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