GReddy Type RS bov leak at idle help

[delado]

Hellos lads,

I recently installed a GReddy RS bov on my sr20det. At first it didn't open up at all so I did the spring mod (removing the smaller spring) and bam, now it opens up but it leaks considerably at idle. I tried searching but no concrete answers. Some say it's supposed to leak at idle, others say it shouldn't. If I tighten the adjuster, then the leak at idle GOES AWAY, but then I get a half ass blow off and a compression surge. But when I loosen the adjuster, the bov works perfectly, but as mentioned, will leak at idle. I can't seem to find the right point. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[dorio]

imo surge at low boost is fine. tighten er up

[delado]

Thanks for the prompt input. I may like to add that I'm only at stock boost. The majority of threads I have read agree that leaking under vacuum is ok, as long as I don't leak under boost. Does this sound right?

[Copper280z]

On my car, using a crappy mitsu valve, it's open slightly at idle, closes with any throttle, on opens very quickly. The Type S that I'm going to install soon is going to be setup the same way. My car is run with MS2, so it's speed density.

If you have a MAF car, recirculating it results in the best drivability. Any unmetered air that can go into the engine will throw the A/F off and any metered air that doesn't enter the engine does the same.

So, if it's MAF, keep it from leaking at idle and deal with the rich spike when it vents and some compressor surge, or recirculate it and set it to open quickly and have no rich spikes or surge. If it's speed density, set it to vent quickly, because it doesn't matter where the air comes from/goes as all the ECU sees is pressure.

[Edwin562]

save up for a new BOV....

[delado]

I see. Well my car runs a maf, and it SHOULD be recirculated but I just plan on running atmospheric. It would be a pain to recirculate considering that my bov is all the way on the bottom cold side of my FMIC :eek3:

[Edwin562]

I see. Well my car runs a maf, and it SHOULD be recirculated but I just plan on running atmospheric. It would be a pain to recirculate considering that my bov is all the way on the bottom cold side of my FMIC :eek3:
Run a rubber hose across the engine bay. lol thats that i did...

[delado]

Run a rubber hose across the engine bay. lol thats that i did...

That would look like a bag of dicks.

[Edwin562]

That would look like a bag of dicks.

:facepalm:
so you rather have a nice looking engine bay over drivability???

[delado]

:facepalm:
so you rather have a nice looking engine bay over drivability???

I didn't say that. I can live with the ocassional idle drop. I just want to make sure that it's normal for my bov to leak at idle. That is all. lol:picardfp:

[Edwin562]

BOVs arent suppose to leak period... if yours is leaking, either fix it or replace it. nuff said.

[Copper280z]

There's a difference between leaking and being open, one is a defect the other is a setting issue.

It is normal for it to be open somewhat at idle. If you'd rather deal with surge than drivability problems, crank it down, if not loosen it up. Or recirc it and deal with neither.

[delado]

There's a difference between leaking and being open, one is a defect the other is a setting issue.

It is normal for it to be open somewhat at idle. If you'd rather deal with surge than drivability problems, crank it down, if not loosen it up. Or recirc it and deal with neither.

Correction, in that case, it stays open. It IS open slightly at idle. I DON'T want to deal with the surge. So my best bet is to have it open at idle, and recirculate it. Right?

[Copper280z]

Yeah, set it so it's slightly open at idle, but not loose enough to leak in boost, and recirculate it, that's the best of both worlds. It shouldn't take much to keep it from leaking in boost, but you might still want to do a leak check to be sure, leaking in boost is a much smaller issue if it's recirculated.