How to remove the rear Hatch?

[DRFT]

like the title says. I found a spoilerless hatch and i want to replace it with my hatch that has some rust and holes. I looked around inside the car and found two bolts near the roof. Do i just unscrew those?

and i searched but i didnt find what i was looking for.

[Tubed4evr]

Yea according to the FSM it looks like you just take off the 2 bolts on each of the two flanges as well as the bolt that secures the support damper to the hatch.

Ryan

[s13driver]

there are 4 nuts that are holding the hatch from the top and 2 that is holding the the struts ? once you remove that, the hatch is pretty much free to go except that you have to either cut the wires and solder them back later on or do it the hard way (pull it out).

[Ghettokracker71]

Hmm...Makes me happy mine came spoilerless....;)

[Rennen]

I did a hatch swap about a year ago.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290635749

There are 4 bolts at the top and 2 on the gas shocks, to get to the ones at the top you will need to remove some of your interior panels and the headliner. Those are easy, just pull on stuff till the clips come off. I didn't have to cut off any wires, just follow the wires until you find the location of the clips in the harness. I think they are located behind the panels on the sides of the rear seats. Installation is the reverse of removal. Just remember to put the wiring grommets back into place or an automatic car wash becomes a very interesting experience.;)

-Matt

[s13driver]

the thing with my swap is that when i receive the hatch from the junkers the wires are cut which leaves me either to do the same or pull the wire out little by little and it was a pain in the A$$ to do so. but the new hatch still sux cause half of the defogger lines are dead.:doh: :bash: :cry: :wtc: :( :duh: .. o btw does anyone know how to remove the hatch glass ???

[Rennen]

You don't need to replace the whole glass just because of the defroster lines going bad. Autozone( and walmart probably too) sell defroster repair kits that let you fill in the broken spots. Then your defroster should work fine.

-Matt

[pr240sx]

I highly recommend that you remove the gas struts screws FIRST or when you remove the 4 bolts or the force of the strust will slide tha hatch to the rear making a big mess.

As for the wiring for a defroster hatch. the live wires run thru the passenger side of the car, on the driver side they are only 2 wires that are ground for the defroster and another for the antenna.
If you plan to replace/move the glass to another wireless hatch is better if you snake the wires BEFORE installing the glass.
Also you will need the mouldings as the existing ones will be destroyed when removing the glass.
Also, find it easier to cut the wires on the inside of the car, near the connectors (passenger B pillar, under the side glass) so you can pull them off easier and without breaking the rubber gromment that Rennen says)
I did this same procedure(removal of the original glass, replace hatch, run wires and install glass to new hatch) not to long ago (actually 1 week before thanksgiving) at the glass shop
Even the hatch I found didnt have wiper hole!!
rustless and with a funtionall DRY trunk again!!