Gatecrasher3
11-01-2011, 07:12 PM
Anyone who has ever dealt with a 240 knows that if you have under body rust the frame rails are probably going to be one of the worst hit areas.
My 91 was a perfect example of this.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3696.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3695.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3692.jpg
As you can see each of the 240s frame rails were in bad shape and because of this decay I would not pass safety in a million years, the only solution would be replacing the rails. Nissan stopped manufacturing the replacement rails a few years ago and their supplies of any have since run dry. I had to go elsewhere to find a replacement, so I talked to several different metal fabricators with them explaining they would do their best to create a OEM replacement for that segment of the rail that had the rust, exactly what I was looking for. I was going bring my 91 to a local fabricators but then I stumbled over this Online Store - Xcessive Manufacturing (http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com/ONLINESTORE.html?cid=41&step=4&pid=172), a pre-fabed rail replacement. I thought that getting these specifically made rails would save me time, money and most importantly keep it's alignment true. I called xcessive manufacturing and got in touch with Rich who made the order process very easy, and in total they cost me $232 CDN . About a week later a box arrived at my house containing two of these.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMAG0391.jpg
I forget the gage of the metal but these things were solid with really clean beading along the outside edge of the rails, I wish I had taken more pictures of just the rails but I' am sure xcessive would send you any pic/info if requested.
Mocking the rail up you can see that they coved my problem areas well with room to spare on each end, and they fit very snug over the stock rail before prep.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMAG0417.jpg
I began pulling my interior because of the heat that welding these would create on the floor of my car, possibly burning my carpet if it was left in.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMAG0413.jpg
Mouse's nest behind my kick panel...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMAG0407.jpg
Getting back under the car I began grinding the undercoating off from around the rusted areas and got down to the metal where the new rails would be welded in. A die grinder would be best for this job because of the tight areas, but I only had a large angle grinder so I left the small areas for the guy doing my welding because he had the proper tools. As you can see the metal surrounding the rust looked healthy but it still had to be cut making certain no rust was still present.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3703.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3701.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3702.jpg
At this point I handed my 240 over to my welder who after inspecting the cars underbody felt that cutting out as much rail as possible while still leaving himself enough metal to weld the new rails on would keep the strength of the car and minimize the chance of rust moving to the new rails.
After two weeks I got a call from my welder saying my car was ready and that the operation was a complete success. He explained that the replacement rails went on like a dream, welding on tight and strong. He also said that he drilled four holes at the top of the rails and four at the other end and he used plug welds creating a extremely strong connection. Adding a coat of rubberized spray finalized the project making the twenty year old rails look just like they came off the line.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/photo5.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/photo7.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/photo8.jpg
My welder cost $450 CDN with tip, bringing the cost of this project to a total of $682 CDN give or take, yes it was a bit of coin, but for a car that I'm never going to sell it was worth every penny.
My 91 was a perfect example of this.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3696.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3695.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3692.jpg
As you can see each of the 240s frame rails were in bad shape and because of this decay I would not pass safety in a million years, the only solution would be replacing the rails. Nissan stopped manufacturing the replacement rails a few years ago and their supplies of any have since run dry. I had to go elsewhere to find a replacement, so I talked to several different metal fabricators with them explaining they would do their best to create a OEM replacement for that segment of the rail that had the rust, exactly what I was looking for. I was going bring my 91 to a local fabricators but then I stumbled over this Online Store - Xcessive Manufacturing (http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com/ONLINESTORE.html?cid=41&step=4&pid=172), a pre-fabed rail replacement. I thought that getting these specifically made rails would save me time, money and most importantly keep it's alignment true. I called xcessive manufacturing and got in touch with Rich who made the order process very easy, and in total they cost me $232 CDN . About a week later a box arrived at my house containing two of these.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMAG0391.jpg
I forget the gage of the metal but these things were solid with really clean beading along the outside edge of the rails, I wish I had taken more pictures of just the rails but I' am sure xcessive would send you any pic/info if requested.
Mocking the rail up you can see that they coved my problem areas well with room to spare on each end, and they fit very snug over the stock rail before prep.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMAG0417.jpg
I began pulling my interior because of the heat that welding these would create on the floor of my car, possibly burning my carpet if it was left in.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMAG0413.jpg
Mouse's nest behind my kick panel...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMAG0407.jpg
Getting back under the car I began grinding the undercoating off from around the rusted areas and got down to the metal where the new rails would be welded in. A die grinder would be best for this job because of the tight areas, but I only had a large angle grinder so I left the small areas for the guy doing my welding because he had the proper tools. As you can see the metal surrounding the rust looked healthy but it still had to be cut making certain no rust was still present.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3703.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3701.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/IMG_3702.jpg
At this point I handed my 240 over to my welder who after inspecting the cars underbody felt that cutting out as much rail as possible while still leaving himself enough metal to weld the new rails on would keep the strength of the car and minimize the chance of rust moving to the new rails.
After two weeks I got a call from my welder saying my car was ready and that the operation was a complete success. He explained that the replacement rails went on like a dream, welding on tight and strong. He also said that he drilled four holes at the top of the rails and four at the other end and he used plug welds creating a extremely strong connection. Adding a coat of rubberized spray finalized the project making the twenty year old rails look just like they came off the line.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/photo5.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/photo7.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/GatecrasherCanada/photo8.jpg
My welder cost $450 CDN with tip, bringing the cost of this project to a total of $682 CDN give or take, yes it was a bit of coin, but for a car that I'm never going to sell it was worth every penny.