SPL Monoball Bushings

[Wbarnes13]

Hello everyone. I have been searching around looking for reviews or anything I could find on the SPL rear knuckle monoball bushings http://www.splparts.com/chassis-S14.html#SPLRKBS13. I was just wondering if there okay for daily driving or if rain and dirt and such would hurt them. I'm looking to replace them for my ES bushings I have now to get rid of the binding. Would they be better then ES for daily driving?

[boyou2]

for a DD, you should go with an ES kit ;)

[Wbarnes13]

I have the ES kit now and they are binding after only 5 months. I have thought about the zerk fittings but have read a few things about them not working to well either.

[CrimsonRockett]

I ordered them for my S13. A friend of mine pretty much daily drives his Z33 with full SPL arms and spherical bearings on everything. They're not as bad as some people make them seem. With a good set of shocks/springs (er, coilovers), you won't really notice them.

As far as durability goes, we just spray them down with lithium grease once a month and they hold up just fine. Then again, we're in California. Only thing we really have to worry about is dirt/dust.

[Chaluska]

i'm running ES bushings in most of the car, and it is ultra tight (not rough, just tight).. just make sure you lube the crap out of them before installing. Mine had about a 1/16th" thick layer of grease before installation.

[boyou2]

I have the ES kit now and they are binding after only 5 months. I have thought about the zerk fittings but have read a few things about them not working to well either.

6months for me, nothing to notice....

[s13silvia123]

i have SPL's first made suspension completely around all corners even the lower control arms, i use to daily my s13 for about 2 years and its been sitting out back in the yard with winter storms for 2 years now. haven't had a issue yet. no rust buildup either when i checked it a few days while i was swapping out my turbo manifold to a new one.

good for the money

[GSXRJJordan]

I recommend that kit for anyone, regardless of purpose. For max performance, there should be no compliance in anything except the shock - that actually helps the shock do it's job better. Crappy bushings will make a bad shock feel smoother over high speed stuff, but a good shock will actually feel more comfortable with sphericals all around.

We currently sell that kit, and can install it for you as well. Give [email protected] an email, our SPL pricing is tits.

[azndummie]

These are not bad at all, they dont make as much noise as everyone thinks and they make the car feel SOLID in the rear.

[Wbarnes13]

I lubed the hell out of them when I installed the ES, and now every time I take off you can hear the whole rear squeaking. I jacked the car up and tried to move the whole knuckle with a pry bar and it didn't move very easily. Thanks for all the input it's much appreciated I think I'll try out the SPL's.

[codyace]

I've got the DefSport/Skullworks in my Z32 uprights, and love them. As JordanInnovations pointed out about, the most comfortable suspension is one where the shock setup takes all of the work, not the bushings binding. My 240 rides so nice with them, that it's hard to ride in other ones.

[ManoNegra]

I've got the DefSport/Skullworks in my Z32 uprights, and love them. As JordanInnovations pointed out about, the most comfortable suspension is one where the shock setup takes all of the work, not the bushings binding. My 240 rides so nice with them, that it's hard to ride in other ones.

same here
been running them for over a year now
and really like the performance and feedback from the suspension
I raise the rear of the car and everything just moves down smoothly
I can move the corners freely
I'm running them on Zeal Function XS coilover, Powertrix traction and toe arms and Peak Performance RUCAS. Progress swaybars.

do note though that spherical will requires more maintenance as has been pointed out
I clean them up with lubricant every other month or so
but their lifetime will be less than rubber or poly
also more feedback = more harness, noise, vibrations aswell
you will feel imperfection in the road more
and your shitty coilovers will be exposed

overall, I'm very please with them

track car? highly recommended less regulations dictate otherwise

[JDMStanced]

i just installed ES bushings for inner and outer bushings on my z33.
the car still squeaks like a mutherfu** when i brake.. :( even i lubed everywhere :)

[boyou2]

i did'nt lube anything, and no squeaking ^^

[JDMStanced]

i did'nt lube anything, and no squeaking ^^

do you have z33?

[Howie Felter Snatch]

What is this squeaking you people are talking about? I have full ES bushings everywhere (RED type) and I've never heard any of this squeaking.. I've even have set up 3 other S13's with full ES bushing kit and never heard this before..

Can sound please take a moment to explain this to me and why this would happen in the first place and how loud does this squeaking get? I got SPL/PBM arms all around with TEIN coilovers.. Does it just depend on what type of arms/coils you're running? :hey:

Personally I think the ES bushings are awesome! They definitively tightened up the rear/front end a ton!

[Wbarnes13]

do note though that spherical will requires more maintenance as has been pointed out
I clean them up with lubricant every other month or so

I'm just worried about rusting. I'm guessing if I just take the time to lubricate them I shouldn't have to worry about rust. And about to squeaking for the first few months it was fine. Just over the past few weeks I've been hearing it every time I back up or take off.

[boyou2]

do you have z33?

no I got an s13

[ManoNegra]

Can sound please take a moment to explain this to me and why this would happen in the first place and how loud does this squeaking get? I got SPL/PBM arms all around with TEIN coilovers.. Does it just depend on what type of arms/coils you're running? :hey:

grease breaks down with water and grime over time or get squeezed out
starts low but sound get worse and worse with time
I think that the heim in your arms are probably helping avoid the squeak
it's more apparent when the ES bushings are installed on both the upright and arms

Personally I think the ES bushings are awesome! They definitively tightened up the rear/front end a ton!

I agree, when they are well lubricated and functioning properly
they liven up the car


on the other hand, when they fail it can be ugly....

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/876/img0068gp.jpg

[Pandapants]

Good grief, was that from binding?

[ManoNegra]

pretty much
friend came to the shop complaining about a possible bent shock
went over a pothole and rear started clunking really bad
drove like that for a couple of days before coming by too
replaced it with another ES bushing we had on hand...:ughd:

btw
you guys do know that difference between the red and black ES bushings right?
black ones are graphite impregnated to self lubricate, red ones aren't

ps forgot, this thread has some useful information aswell:
http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=3191

[Zenki_516]

If anyone is worried about squeaking or binding, just buy the bushings in BLACK. The black ones lubricate themselves while the red ones dry out over time. And you should spray any ES bushing with white lithium grease every so often to prevent either from happening.

Edit: Was typing while that^ was posted, but read it twice... black are self lubricating.

[JDMStanced]

what the hell!! i asked the vendor and he said red and black are the same thing. That's why i ordered red...Does the red perform better or something?

THe reason i replaced my LCA inner and outer bushing on my z33 is because of the squeaking and clicking noise i had. ES bushings didn't fix it..hmm..

[Zenki_516]

Yea he definitely lied, or didn't know what he was talking about. I've never heard anything as far as one performing better. I think red is just red for looks.

[boyou2]

that's why mines don't sqeeze, I took black ones ^^

[word sux]

yea idk why they even make the red ones its pointless and most vendors do not know that they are different

[JDMStanced]

I emailed concept z performance where I got the bushings.
this is his reply"The Black Bushings are impregnated w/ Graphite, but we have to lube them also.* Both Black and Red* squeak if they are not lubricated."
am I suppose to just live with the squeaks? it's f ing loud. idk if my camera can catch the sound but I'll try to make a vid of the sound.

[codyace]

The black bushings being impregnated with graphite is NOT across the board at all, and is a function of the newest stuff IMO. I've got some black bushings in the past in kits that actually were mistakenly put in 'kits' and they were all the same stuff visually.

[rage]

so, the black ones don't have the binding issue?

[JDMStanced]

I feel like I'm ripped off now..

[ManoNegra]

If anyone is worried about squeaking or binding, just buy the bushings in BLACK. The black ones lubricate themselves while the red ones dry out over time. And you should spray any ES bushing with white lithium grease every so often to prevent either from happening.


Buy more of the ES lube or get grease for marine applications.

[bardabe]

no your supposed to take it all apart, get the bushings out, lube them and put it back together. Properly

[racepar1]

on the other hand, when they fail it can be ugly....

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/876/img0068gp.jpg

I've had this happen to me personally and on my buddy's S13, except on our cars it was both the trac arm and the ruca that broke.

As stated, urethane bushings are fine, as long as they're lubricated. Once they lose lube they bind terribly, squeak, and break shit. I recommend installing zerk fittings on any urethane bushing that you install on your car so that they can be greased easily and regularly.

As for the monoballs, the only issue is their service life vs the cost of replacement. Monoballs used for daily use will probably wear out in a couple years and require replacement. Replacing them won't be cheap. You can buy seals to try and limit the amount of dirt and debris that get into them, which will extend the service life. As for driveability the reduction in bind will likely result in a smoother overall ride, you'll just be able to feel more vibration and hear more noise since there is no rubber to dampen the vibration. All in all the monoballs are the better choice as long as you can afford them.

[Howie Felter Snatch]

ManoNegra, you're the man! Thanks for answering my questions. I definitely lubed the shit out of them when I installed them.. But now you have me thinking how would one go about re-lubricating their ES bushings without disassembling the arms/knuckles to get at them? Can I spray some kind of lubricant or just apply some ES grease to the outside in hopes that it will help.. lol..

That picture just freaked the shit out of me.. Wow all that because of a squeaky Polyurethane bushing lol

[az_240]

^Gotta take them apart for it to really do anything. I found white lithium grease is not good for these bushings.... it tends to make them stick and does not last as long.

The ES grease or other TEFLON based grease is best.

Also it might help some of you to put washers on the inner (rotating) sleeves. Ive noticed some of the ES bushings actually stick out past these sleeves a good bit so when you torque everything down the link is now sandwiched and unable to rotate properly. Washers will space the sleeves out so the torque is being applied to the sleeve instead of the bushing.

If anyone wants to swap out the red bushings in their uprights/rear arms for the better black ones (yes they are the newer graphite bushings) I have a new set I'd be willing to sell for $30
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a229/livinglegendlll/ImportedPhotos00044.jpg

[Zenki_516]

so, the black ones don't have the binding issue?

It's not like it can't happen, but its less likely. I have black in my FLCAs and red in my RLCAs and after a year the black ones are in much better shape.

[JDMStanced]

i had REALLY hard time pressing in the bushings all the way in. i had a little help from press to do so.
I have no idea how i'll be able to remove the bushings from the arm to grease it.. -_-..last time i tried, it didn't do chitt

[codyace]

i had REALLY hard time pressing in the bushings all the way in. i had a little help from press to do so.
I have no idea how i'll be able to remove the bushings from the arm to grease it.. -_-..last time i tried, it didn't do chitt

You don't remove the bushing, just the metal inner bushing...that's the only part that spins in the bushing, not the entire thing. You should be able to put a socket against it, hammer it out half way, grease it, and then do it from the other side and repeat.

[JDMStanced]

You don't remove the bushing, just the metal inner bushing...that's the only part that spins in the bushing, not the entire thing. You should be able to put a socket against it, hammer it out half way, grease it, and then do it from the other side and repeat.

oh! that'll be hella easier than lubing the whole thing :) thanks.

[Howie Felter Snatch]

You don't remove the bushing, just the metal inner bushing...that's the only part that spins in the bushing, not the entire thing. You should be able to put a socket against it, hammer it out half way, grease it, and then do it from the other side and repeat.

You're full of great ideas just like a nasty skank's snatch is full of herps.. Keep up the good work!

:barfkiss:




^Gotta take them apart for it to really do anything. I found white lithium grease is not good for these bushings.... it tends to make them stick and does not last as long.

The ES grease or other TEFLON based grease is best.

Awesome! I guess I wont be using my 'special' grease on them anymore..

[JDMStanced]

You're full of great ideas just like a nasty skank's snatch is full of herps.. Keep up the good work!

:barfkiss:




Awesome! I guess I wont be using my 'special' grease on them anymore..

are you saying that is not the way to do it?

i heard anti seize work better than the grease provided. I used anti seize

[Def]

I've had this happen to me personally and on my buddy's S13, except on our cars it was both the trac arm and the ruca that broke.

As stated, urethane bushings are fine, as long as they're lubricated. Once they lose lube they bind terribly, squeak, and break shit. I recommend installing zerk fittings on any urethane bushing that you install on your car so that they can be greased easily and regularly.

As for the monoballs, the only issue is their service life vs the cost of replacement. Monoballs used for daily use will probably wear out in a couple years and require replacement. Replacing them won't be cheap. You can buy seals to try and limit the amount of dirt and debris that get into them, which will extend the service life. As for driveability the reduction in bind will likely result in a smoother overall ride, you'll just be able to feel more vibration and hear more noise since there is no rubber to dampen the vibration. All in all the monoballs are the better choice as long as you can afford them.

The spherical bearings in my kits are fairly cheap to replace (approx $45 for all of them), and the sleeves are designed so the user can replace the bearings. I still have my first prototype set on my car with no play or wear in the bearings, with as much track time as I can fit on them and the occasional grass fire :facepalm: over the past 4-5 yrs.

I highly recommend them, they really make a VERY noticeable seat of the pants change for the better.

[codyace]

are you saying that is not the way to do it?

i heard anti seize work better than the grease provided. I used anti seize

Haha it's the easy/right way. Anti Seize is some nasty stuff but really isn't a lubricant.

[az_240]

Also dino based greases are known for breaking down poly. I'm not sure what is in anti seize but it's probably better to stick with a 100% synthetic teflon grease. They sell the ES grease at AutoZone/Checker for pretty cheap.

And yea sliding the inner sleeve with a socket and C clamp without removing all the way is the best way to grease them with minimal downtime.

[rbs14kouki]

Would they fit in a driftworks rear spindle ?!?

DEF you have a PM.

[az_240]

^Unfortunately the DW rear knuckles use a different size diameter. I know skullworks made some for the DW knuckles a while back for about the same price though...

[ManoNegra]

^Unfortunately the DW rear knuckles use a different size diameter. I know skullworks made some for the DW knuckles a while back for about the same price though...

Those were a custom/hook up job for a friend
off the shelf ones that were made wouldn't work since we found out that the
IDs of the DW knuckles were not consistent
custom housing were made for each spot

[thefro526]

Those were a custom/hook up job for a friend
off the shelf ones that were made wouldn't work since we found out that the
IDs of the DW knuckles were not consistent
custom housing were made for each spot

If you don't mind divulging a little bit more information...

So you guys just made sleeves for each point to make the ID's of the bearing mounting points were consistent - then used the same bearing in each spot?

[Def]

If you don't mind divulging a little bit more information...

So you guys just made sleeves for each point to make the ID's of the bearing mounting points were consistent - then used the same bearing in each spot?

Yes, the bearings sit in a machined sleeve. The DW spindles use unmachined tubing so the diameters are extremely inconsistent. That's fine for using poly bushings, but it won't work at all for a light press fit.

[racepar1]

ManoNegra, you're the man! Thanks for answering my questions. I definitely lubed the shit out of them when I installed them.. But now you have me thinking how would one go about re-lubricating their ES bushings without disassembling the arms/knuckles to get at them? Can I spray some kind of lubricant or just apply some ES grease to the outside in hopes that it will help.. lol..

That picture just freaked the shit out of me.. Wow all that because of a squeaky Polyurethane bushing lol

Spray lube will do nothing, the sleeves must be removed to grease the bushing. Also, the color of the bushings does not matter. I've had both black and red bushings bind and break arms. When you install the bushings, or remove them to grease them, install zerk fittings as described in the link below. In the write-up the guy taps the holes for the fittings. On the installs that I have done I've found that you don't have to tap them. I believe it was a 7/32 drill that I used and the fittings would tap themselves into the arms, but you'll have to experiment a little to be sure. Here's the link.

Polyurethane bushing grease fitting install - Nissan Road Racing Forums (http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=554)

[Def]

I also echo the "it doesn't matter the color of the urethane bushing." The black ones seem just as grabby as the red, and both need CONSTANT greasing. Even compared to well greased urethane bushings the sphericals make a huge difference in ride quality and predictability of the car, but they obviously cost more.

[dudermagee]

do note though that spherical will requires more maintenance as has been pointed out
I clean them up with lubricant every other month or so



what do you do for cleaning? Just spray them with the arms still connected?

[az_240]

I think the newer black bushings are different. Old black bushings could be the same as red. These new black bushings I got seem to have more of a slick surface.... I tested the red bushings against the newer black ones (after install in a vice...both were brand new) and it's clear that the black ones don't need as much force to get them moving.

I worry about spraying quality sphericals with lube since most are lined and I have no idea how well the lining can handle certain chemicals in these lubes... also lube attracts dirt.

I normally just wipe the bearings clean (this is on adjustable arms) when I get a chance... no rust and haven't had any problems with play or freezing yet after owning them for a couple of years.

[ManoNegra]

what do you do for cleaning? Just spray them with the arms still connected?

yes, wipe the dust and grime out
use q-tips on hard to reach spots
make sure they rotate freely and that there isn't any play
the bearings themselves are usually good since they are teflon coated and self clean

[Def]

You really shouldn't spray anything on PTFE lined spherical bearings. It attracts dirt and contributes to the liner wearing out earlier. They rotate very very freely after a short break in period if they're not a POS Chinese bearing that's straked way too tight.

[ManoNegra]

I use LPS stuff, supposed resit dust build up

[dudermagee]

I use LPS stuff, supposed resit dust build up

this one?
LPS 1 Greaseless Premium Lubricant (http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/lubricants_pg/LPS1.html)

[ManoNegra]

That'll do.

[Wookie384]

Regarding the Energy Suspension debate:

This is what I was told by their R&D guy, back when I had Energy Suspension R&D the bushings on my Scion xB and my buddys S14.

The black ones are graphite impregnated, the red ones are not. The black ones are meant to have a slightly longer life because they are graphite impregnated, but just because they are urethane bushings they are not indestructible, their life span will depend on use and maintenance. He also said they used to sell them in various colors but they cut down production to just red and black, they kept the red stayed because of demand for the red ones.

What he said totally makes sense, I still went ahead and had him put red ones all over my car, just so I could see which bushings were replaced and which were not, I also had the benefit of having the ones installed in my car of a higher durometer. :2f2f: Those bushings were installed back in 2006 and only now are the bushings to my sway bar end-links drying up, everything else is still fine.

[mr.man.performance]

I have the SPL's for my S13 uprights. There was an immediate change in feel after you got them on (vs stock). Not too much more noise than what I already had but my entire rear is set up with PBM stuff, to include their subframe riser, so it was already pretty noisy to begin with. I can't speak for their durability yet. I just got these guys in. I can say that after a few passes in the mountains, I'm happy with them.

Side note: Pressing them in was a bitch. i tried using a 3 in 1 and I got one in 3/4 of the way...I had to take it to my bud with a hydraulic press. It took 700lbs of pressure to push that one the rest of the way in. The press made quick work of the others though.