View Full Version : Best Cooling Modifications?
pony5oh
10-24-2011, 11:56 AM
OK OK...I did use the good ole search button, but this is a pretty broad request and I get ALOT of unrelated threads....
I have a regular, run of the mill SR20DET swapped into my '89 240sx. I recently swapped in a larger aluminum radiator with dual electric fans and shroud. I also removed the OEM clutch fan.
I have noticed that even at freeway speeds (60-70mph) the water temp is creeping higher than it used to with the OEM SR20 radiator and clutch fan...I have actually had to turn my fans on while driving on the freeway in low 60's weather.
I'm sure my aftermarket FMIC is blocking alot of the flow to the radiator...
What have yall done to your S13's to improve airflow to the radiator and lower running temps?
Would an air diversion panel really do anything noticeable?
Short o cutting holes on my front bumper.......
thefro526
10-24-2011, 12:06 PM
More often than not, the OEM clutch fan with shroud will cool better than e-fans.
Make sure your coolant system is properly bled, and if you have issues with air in the coolant, look into a swirl tank to constantly bleed the system.
You can also play with ducting, you ensure that you're getting the maximum amount of clean air (Air that hasn't been through another heat exchanger already) is crossing the radiator.
pony5oh
10-24-2011, 12:14 PM
Yeah, I am going to bleed the cooling system next time I get a chance...just to make sure.
What have people done as far as ducting to get fresh air to the radiator?
Are there any scoops or vents that can make the hole a bit "prettier" if I decide to cut some vents in my front bumper?
!Zar!
10-24-2011, 12:30 PM
I'm running water wetter and distilled water along with the oem clutch fan, shroud, and that radiator shroud thing.
Anything that helps direct air through the radiator will help with cooling.
Tearlessj
10-24-2011, 12:34 PM
I had temp problems at the track with Altima fans. Then I put a clutch fan in, problems solved.
badbob2121
10-24-2011, 12:36 PM
the OEM clutch fan with shroud will cool better than e-fans.
water wetter always seems to work if you need it too
but i doubt thats your issue...like ^^ said, bleeding coolant properly is a start, has the water pump/thermostat ever being replaced?
OBEEWON
10-24-2011, 12:41 PM
Take your hood off.
It looks cool.
Its like taking your shirt off.
thefro526
10-24-2011, 12:45 PM
Take your hood off.
It looks cool.
Its like taking your shirt off.
Only Chicago is allowed to do that.
xX240-SXx
10-24-2011, 12:53 PM
Take your hood off.
It looks cool.
Its like taking your shirt off.
where's the like button when we need one lol
Seraphim38
10-24-2011, 01:39 PM
the only time my car temp creeps is when it needs to be bled. I am running the dual e-fans with a large koyo race radiator, stock thermostat and no oil cooler. I am planning on running a good oil cooler with a Canton thermostat...someday.
nightsauce
10-24-2011, 02:15 PM
my best coolng mod was replacing all my hoses. I had one leak under the intake mani so I changed them all. Not making it any cooler, but more reliable.
idahotuner
10-24-2011, 02:28 PM
A thermostat that opens up sooner will make it cool better. I need to get one myself
Pstl_pete
10-24-2011, 02:34 PM
Make sure you have a proper undertray that seals properly so that air actually gets to your rad rather than just flowing underneath it.
chiboy002
10-24-2011, 05:51 PM
flush and run one of those anti-rust treatment things in the radiator
flush the shit out of it to unclog passages, with high pressure water
90% pure distilled water + 10% anti-freeze + water wetter. Get a new cap for the radiator
clutch fan + stock shroud owns like a beast
mysharonna
10-24-2011, 06:32 PM
rb25 clutch fan + stock shroud
MrFairlady
10-24-2011, 06:44 PM
rb25 clutch fan + stock shroud
I've heard the Same. (RB fan on SR) - Drift Tengoku shows thats what Yashio likes.
More Blades on the RB Fan that Bolts up to the SR Clutch
Looked into getting one but RHDjapan needs a part number and I found one but not sure its Correct or not.
Someone needs to Get This part avail at the Shops in the US.
mysharonna
10-24-2011, 06:51 PM
I got mine from Raw Brokerage - Your #1 source for RB20 / RB25 / RB26 parts! (http://www.rawbrokerage.com)
Its the single best thing I did for my sr's cooling. I used stick on foam (from lowes) to seal the shroud to the radiator. I can literally hold a piece of paper a couple feet in front of the car and it will suck it to the radiator... at idle. lol
Just send them an email and see if they have any.
colombianbryan
10-24-2011, 07:20 PM
Altima oem fans and a nismo thermostat should do the trick!
MyblackS13
10-24-2011, 07:21 PM
I just used a C&R radiator with single spal fan, lower temp thermostat, can't remember what kind, the only time I saw temps over half way was at an auto-x at 100+ degree temps. I just used plain green prestone mixed 60/40. I would start with checking for air on the system, then maybe try experimenting with the stock radiator and the e-fans. I'll probably get flamed but I would avoid the clutch fan if possible, I definitely noticed a difference in quickness of revs when I went to the e-fan.
!Zar!
10-24-2011, 07:24 PM
I've heard the Same. (RB fan on SR) - Drift Tengoku shows thats what Yashio likes.
More Blades on the RB Fan that Bolts up to the SR Clutch
Looked into getting one but RHDjapan needs a part number and I found one but not sure its Correct or not.
Someone needs to Get This part avail at the Shops in the US.
KA fans have more blades than a SR as well.
Luvs2slide
10-24-2011, 07:57 PM
Distilled water doesnt make much of a difference. Tap H20 FTMFW.
Matej
10-24-2011, 08:31 PM
Using an RB25 clutch fan on my KA.
Not sure how much difference it made, but it looks cool/menacing.
As Mr. !Zar! said, on an SR you can also use a KA clutch fan for a cooling upgrade.
s13 drifta
10-24-2011, 08:35 PM
Distilled water doesnt make much of a difference. Tap H20 FTMFW.
Distilled water is used to prevent corrosion in the motor and in aluminum radiators. That's the difference.
Luvs2slide
10-24-2011, 09:22 PM
^ This is the a cooling thread right? Never said nothing about preventative Mx.
codyace
10-24-2011, 10:02 PM
The key to god cooling is a proper system. Whether E fans or Clutch Fan is the heart, if you don't have the lower panels, nor a bled system, it won't work.
Don't fall to much into the trap of lower thermostats, as that just overcools a car, and never lets it get to proper operating (180*) temperature; in fact a Nismo thermo is NOT needed under any circumstance.
Good flow, good radiator, good fans, proper ducting...that's all that you need.
My personal car
Stock Thermostat
Altima E fans
Derale Fan controller for second fan
OEM lower plastic pieces
Aftermarket upper cooling panel
180* CONSTANT since day one now, 200-210ish on track when beating the snot out of it. Never an issue
Future_gohan
10-24-2011, 11:07 PM
oem clutch fan setups FTW.
REVGASM
10-24-2011, 11:16 PM
koyo
nismo thermo
altima fans
DFI dual fan controller
PBM coolant swirl tank
chiboy002
10-24-2011, 11:44 PM
is the rb25 fan loud?
Tom25666
10-24-2011, 11:52 PM
ive had my cx racing radiator with nismo thermostat and single electric fan with temp switch for 3 years now. through 3 brutal alabama summers, no overheating ever
foxystyle
10-25-2011, 12:03 AM
How much of a difference does a pbm swirl pot make? In temp numbers.
dftsilvia
10-25-2011, 07:45 AM
on my s14 w/rb25 i run
oem clutch fan
mishy rad
psm swirl tank
oem 300zx tt t/stat.
crusing on highway, 170*. stop and go 180*. drifting 180-190.
no oem plastics, removed gasket on cowl under the hood. no hood spacers. and i drift with my hood and bumper on.
Sleepy_Steve
10-25-2011, 08:01 AM
On my car I've done a couple things.
Mishi rad, eliminates plastic end tanks.
Run distilled water w/ water wetter.
Drilled 2x 1/8" holes in the thermostat to eliminate bubbles in the head.
If I needed more air flow, I'd run the clutch fan, but I only use the electric fan in traffic now, so I don't need more air flow.
Never gets more than 190 on track even when its 105degrees out... But it is just an NA KA.
Other than the radiator, the best cooling mod I've done has been for the brakes. Removing the dust shields and running 3" ducting to the front rotors has been the best investment I've ever made in my braking system.
Boost_Fiend
10-25-2011, 08:41 AM
s13 sr20det
I live in Florida and it was hot as hell this summer. Used to have a problem overheating on the highway, so I revamped my cooling system
Mishimoto Radiatior/ w Fan Shroud
Nismo Thermostat
Water Wetter/ Distilled Water
Never had a problem since. Although, I am running both of my fans on all the times. I need to get a fan controller
gretz
10-25-2011, 08:56 AM
320whp, mishimoto rad, no shrouds, clutch fan...
170 - 178 degrees is the most i've seen...
Chay G
10-25-2011, 10:09 AM
ebay 2.75 radiator
ebay hoses
nismo thermostat
VW Jetta MK4 Dual Speed Fans
Modified Jetta MK4 shroud
Custom Cooling Plate
97% Coolant
OEM 2011 Shellby GT500 hood vent
i've never seen it over 170° in our summer (110°F )
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/chuydelagarza/pinpon/27122010677.jpg
boyou2
10-25-2011, 02:54 PM
egay radiator, 100% coolant, OEM fan and fan shroud, it never goes over 90°C
Pandapants
10-25-2011, 03:12 PM
How much of a difference does a pbm swirl pot make? In temp numbers.
It depends. I've read a user claim a decrease of 10 degrees after installing a coolant breather tank and re routing coolant lines in an rb25/s13. I've seen similar numbers in my rb20/s13 by just eliminating any coolant line above the filler point on the radiator. Either way, it's an affordable reassurance, so why not.
waxball88
10-25-2011, 03:52 PM
KA fans have more blades than a SR as well.
I can't attest to this statement.
But i can say my stock ka clutch and shroud with a thick alum rad stays super cold at all times.
RurouniMidnight
10-25-2011, 03:59 PM
remember CANSSS method, as in cansss stay cool.
C lutch Fan
A luminum Radiator
N ismo Thermostat
S tock shroud
S wirl pot to help system stay bled
S amco hoses for cool factor
pony5oh
10-25-2011, 04:11 PM
Damn! Some Great Info All!
And Yes...Looks like this has turned into the "Cooling Thread" :)
So, from what I am hearing I am going to say that I should be fine with my current setup....I dont think my thermostat has been replaced in a while, so I will check that and bleed the system...then go the distilled water/water wetter route.
No crazy scoops or cutouts needed?
Pinggg
10-25-2011, 05:29 PM
Koyo Radiator
ISIS Fans And Shroud
ISIS Thermostat
ISIS Hoses.
- Been running these on my car for about a year with about a bunch of trackdays, never once overheated. My car also sounds like a damn hurricane up front from these fans pulling so much air!
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm72/pingisasian/Nissan%20240sx/289572_258620717499534_100000548224954_1020717_550 5576_o.jpg
bladetech8
10-25-2011, 06:05 PM
Does the KA fan assembly even bolt up onto an SR fan clutch?
s13javier
10-25-2011, 06:48 PM
oem fan shroud
oem clutch fan
water
water wetter
isis aluminum radiator
isis rad hoses
no front bumper
spaced hood 1 1/2 in.
and my car runs at 140f city highest ive ever seen my car get is 175f on the track on a hot ass day like 91f at florida during the summer.
RandallSharp
10-25-2011, 11:05 PM
What about a radiator cooling plate?
!Zar!
10-26-2011, 09:45 AM
oem fan shroud
oem clutch fan
water
water wetter
isis aluminum radiator
isis rad hoses
no front bumper
spaced hood 1 1/2 in.
and my car runs at 140f city highest ive ever seen my car get is 175f on the track on a hot ass day like 91f at florida during the summer.
Your car is running too cold if it is just chilling at 140.
Running too cold is just as bad as running too hot.
Edwin562
10-26-2011, 10:00 AM
My set up on a stock s13 Ka24de:
-CX Racing Radiator
-OEM Hoses
-OEM t-stat
-Sonic Motor Efans w/ no shroud
-75% Coolant, 20% water, 10% Wet Wetter
average temp: 150-160
hot days:175-185
Cold days: 145-155
Had this set up for about 2 years now. Zero issues, never overheating, tracked twice during the spring.
dwnshft2drft
10-26-2011, 10:19 AM
I think it makes a difference. The coolant swirl tank idea came from the subaru's engine cooling system as stock
usdm180sx
10-26-2011, 11:42 AM
^ This is the a cooling thread right? Never said nothing about preventative Mx.
Why would you recommend something that would mess up the cooling system in this thread?
wildkong
10-26-2011, 11:58 AM
something wrong with ur setup. my efans dont even work and my shiet is nice and cool driving and freeway, unless im on traffic or at a light. ether u need to bleed shiet or u got a cheap radiator..
usdm180sx
10-26-2011, 11:59 AM
remember CANSSS method, as in cansss stay cool.
C lutch Fan
A luminum Radiator
N ismo Thermostat
S tock shroud
S wirl pot to help system stay bled
S amco hoses for cool factor
This is cool haha except I have the dme cooling panel instead of a swirl pot.
Chaluska
10-26-2011, 01:04 PM
A luminum Radiator
N issan OEM Thermostat
A ltima electric fans
L ower air duct paneling
as in, Need to be ANAL about staying cool.
Chaluska
10-26-2011, 01:06 PM
u need to bleed shiet
fixed...
my car can run without e-fans all day, unless im in stop and go traffic, with NO airflow across the front of the car... once you hit above 30 mph, the air that is being pushed into your radiator is stronger than the fan pulling air through....
http://f.cl.ly/items/0Z200t0E231C2Z3A3B3l/now-thats-what-i-call-a-cool-story-bro.gif
thefro526
10-26-2011, 01:22 PM
I think it makes a difference. The coolant swirl tank idea came from the subaru's engine cooling system as stock
Just throwing it out there:
All a swirl tank does is constantly bleed the coolant system. Air in your coolant system dramatically lowers the efficiency of the system (since air carries less thermal energy away than water or coolant) which can lead to over heating or getting weird 'hot spots' from time to time. Most people will notice that their car needs to be bled when the temp gauge will randomly jump by 20*F or more then drop back down once an air bubble has passed the sensor.
Just in case anyone didn't know how a swirl tank works. IMO, it's a worth while investment, especially at $60 or whatever an inexpensive one costs these days.
CrimsonRockett
10-26-2011, 01:29 PM
Surprised no one has thrown this up.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_MHfhu_t5KII/TDgkrKaFttI/AAAAAAAABMA/AzQENaPYWIY/s1600/DSC00439.jpg
doke! ドリフト
10-26-2011, 01:39 PM
COPPER RADIATOR...seriously nobody here running one?? Aluminum blows, also a 25 fan and shroud are key
Chaluska
10-26-2011, 01:40 PM
if your system has been bled, there shouldn't be anyway any air can get back into the system, i don't understand where you guys are getting that info from. If you are low on coolant.... very low, or have a leaking head gasket, i dont see how air can magically form in the radiator system...
swirl pots / surge tanks are intended for fuel systems, to keep a constant amount of fuel availible for the engine... Thats it...
unless you like wasting money and time on something that is useless...
Chaluska
10-26-2011, 01:42 PM
COPPER RADIATOR...seriously nobody here running one?? Aluminum blows, also a 25 fan and shroud are key
doesnt copper radiators still run the plastic end tanks? that is the weak spot of the radiator.. plus copper will varnish alot quicker than aluminum will corrode..
doke! ドリフト
10-26-2011, 01:57 PM
My 3 core does not have plastic end caps, use 50/50 or distilled mixture and not hose water and you'll have no corrosion issues. Doubt you'd ever own it long enough to see any corrosion If you keep a clean system.
doke! ドリフト
10-26-2011, 02:00 PM
Stock copper rads have plastic ends maybe that's what your thinking of?
thefro526
10-26-2011, 02:08 PM
if your system has been bled, there shouldn't be anyway any air can get back into the system, i don't understand where you guys are getting that info from. If you are low on coolant.... very low, or have a leaking head gasket, i dont see how air can magically form in the radiator system...
I guess a more appropriate term would be a coolant breather tank. Most people refer to them as swirl tank because of how the coolant swirls in the tank if it's doing it's job.
And yes, you are correct, if a system is perfectly bled, in theory there's no way to get air back into the system, though on the half dozen or so cars that I've had the experience of bleeding the coolant system with, I've never been able to - or seen anyone get 100% of the air out of the system, there's always air in it a few days later. Maybe I and those who I know suck at bleeding coolant systems.
Also, on some engines (Not any Nissan Engine I've encountered though) there's no bleeder valve (1JZ's for sure) or any other easy way to bleed coolant other than doing the funnel/upside down bottle to radiator cap method - which I'm not particularly fond of. A breather tank is just extra insurance and makes the bleeding process easier.
boyou2
10-26-2011, 02:10 PM
if your system has been bled, there shouldn't be anyway any air can get back into the system, i don't understand where you guys are getting that info from. If you are low on coolant.... very low, or have a leaking head gasket, i dont see how air can magically form in the radiator system...
swirl pots / surge tanks are intended for fuel systems, to keep a constant amount of fuel availible for the engine... Thats it...
unless you like wasting money and time on something that is useless...
If i remember, water is made from hydrogen AND oxygen.
What causes air in coolant system, is cavitation from the water pump, and from temperature (you know that water is boiling from about 100°C, and a little more under pressure)
as long as you have water, OR a mix of water and anti-freeze, there will be air in the cooling system ;)
don't forget to use demineralized water to prevent of rust.
rb25_s13*CHUKI
10-26-2011, 02:30 PM
Koyo
New OEM water pump
Bled system
Circuit sports aluminum resevior
Aluminum shroud for 2 12" inch fans
No thermostat
Watter wetter+water+half a cup of coolant
=Never ever ever ever overheat! just like me!
dwnshft2drft
10-26-2011, 03:09 PM
I used distilled water, less boils means less air
codyace
10-26-2011, 03:12 PM
Also, on some engines (Not any Nissan Engine I've encountered though) there's no bleeder valve (1JZ's for sure) or any other easy way to bleed coolant other than doing the funnel/upside down bottle to radiator cap method - which I'm not particularly fond of. A breather tank is just extra insurance and makes the bleeding process easier.
If you look on the coolant outlet, you'll see a little 10mm screw...that's the bleeder valve. I personally don't think it works very well, but some swear by it.
My personal method though is just fill the radiator up, let it fill in...fill it up again etc etc etc until the level doesn't go down. Then I put the cap on and squeeze the upper hose like an udder to form a suction to back fill the head/block. To me it's a failproof way.
MyblackS13
10-26-2011, 04:25 PM
My personal method though is just fill the radiator up, let it fill in...fill it up again etc etc etc until the level doesn't go down. Then I put the cap on and squeeze the upper hose like an udder to form a suction to back fill the head/block. To me it's a failproof way.
^ What he said, it works in my 240, sometimes I go do something else while the radiator cap is off and let is sit for a little while too to make sure its all out. Before I had my C&R set-up, I had a fairly thick copper and brass replacement radiator (no plastic) from a local shop with a stock SR clutch fan, no shroud, no under panels, my intercooler opening on my bumper is huge which probably helped some, but my car never even came close to overheating and I've never seen the gauge past half way. Keep in mind, my car is primary used for back road twisties and occasional auto-x and even more rarely driven to work, but it has been in a few traffic jams in the summertime.
Most of the stuff I'm reading seems way over complicated unless you're going to be tracking your car or drifting competitively. Not really necessary for a sometimes spirited, street driven car.
And I have no idea why so many people are so in love with the clutch fan, yes, they work and they work well, but most of us spend so much money for a few HP here and there to get the most gain possible, why lose any of it to parasitic loss like a clutch fan? I'm sure the actual HP drain is minimal but when I took mine off, it was like the difference between the stock flywheel and the light weight one all over again.
pony5oh
10-26-2011, 04:39 PM
Hmmm...Great Info Guys!
Yeah, in my case I am thinking that there is something wrong....or I have a big ole air bubble in the system.
I was told that simply raising the nose of the car up, taking the radiator cap off...will allow most all air bubbles to come top the surface?
The radiator is a basic EPray unit...but the build and quality seems great.
Ill post up after we see if that works or not.
What are people using for underpanels? Bulk aluminum and cut it to fit?
JSimpson
10-26-2011, 05:34 PM
Water wetter does make a difference if you use enough. But if all else fails, vmount FTW
thefro526
10-26-2011, 05:34 PM
If you look on the coolant outlet, you'll see a little 10mm screw...that's the bleeder valve. I personally don't think it works very well, but some swear by it.
I'm aware of the bleeder valve but my previous wording may not have came across like that... Lol.
I was just trying to say that a Coolant Breather is a $60 Part that does something - whether or not it makes a difference could be debated, but it's not like someones going and blowing a stack on some snake oil cure.
Also, your method would require patience... I don't have any.
DrIvEsldEwAyS
10-26-2011, 05:41 PM
koyo
mishimoto thermo
single 12 inch fan wired to ignition
never had a problem. this is in a ~500whp car in south carolina summers
Matt191
10-26-2011, 06:20 PM
Alright you guys keep talking about the lower shroud, is that the thing that sits under the front of the car between the Radi & the engine. Also what is the best temp my SR should run at? I have a DIF fan controller but I'm not sure what temperature to set it at.
Matej
10-26-2011, 06:29 PM
Koyo
New OEM water pump
Bled system
Circuit sports aluminum resevior
Aluminum shroud for 2 12" inch fans
No thermostat
Watter wetter+water+half a cup of coolant
=Never ever ever ever overheat! just like me!
What are the advantages and disadvantages to having no thermostat?
I have been meaning to replace mine. Never knew not having one was an option.
Is there a catch? Otherwise I do not see why more people would not run without it.
!Zar!
10-26-2011, 07:44 PM
No thermostat is a horrible idea. It doesn't allow the cooling system to operate properly.
Even people that do run no thermostat, they have something in its place to restrict flow.
Flowing too fast doesn't allow the radiator to dissipate the heat.
And to the person asking about under trays, the cars come stock with them, it's just that most fall off or are removed and not put back on.
foxystyle
10-26-2011, 07:44 PM
^^ I ran with out a thermostat, I saw that it was just a pest always replacing it. I rath have coolant constently running through. It never over heat after. But it is more of a temporary fix as in seasonal, I had it like that during the summer, once temps dropped I threw in a thermostat.
I miss 1990 when this car never overheated and took me from la to sf with no problems. Now my transmission smokes on the 10 freeway, and leaks everywhere.
Matej
10-26-2011, 07:58 PM
No thermostat is a horrible idea. It doesn't allow the cooling system to operate properly.
Even people that do run no thermostat, they have something in its place to restrict flow.
Flowing too fast doesn't allow the radiator to dissipate the heat.
Thank you for the information. I will go with the Nismo one.
Matt191
10-26-2011, 09:24 PM
Alright thanks I will keep that in mind should probably buy one for my 240 huh? and Courtesy probably will have one won't they?
codyace
10-26-2011, 11:26 PM
I'm aware of the bleeder valve but my previous wording may not have came across like that... Lol.
I was just trying to say that a Coolant Breather is a $60 Part that does something - whether or not it makes a difference could be debated, but it's not like someones going and blowing a stack on some snake oil cure.
Also, your method would require patience... I don't have any.
Ah, I did misread you. FWIW in the thread, I personally am not a firm believer in the swirl pots or breather tanks or any of that nonsense, regardless of HP or usage of cars. I guess it looks cool to some, but if a stock system works...what's teh point?
No thermostat is a horrible idea. It doesn't allow the cooling system to operate properly.
Even people that do run no thermostat, they have something in its place to restrict flow.
Flowing too fast doesn't allow the radiator to dissipate the heat.
I've always been under the impression that there is no such thing as 'too fast' of flow in regard to a heat exchange system (I'll also put Air to Water intercoolers and their heat exchanger in this discussion as well). The faster you can trasnfer coolant/water in a system, the quicker it will cool the ENTIRE system, thus keeping it cooler in general.
However in our situation, there is the presence of 2 things: a thermostat, and a bypass.
When you turn the car on, the thermo is closed, and the cooling system circulates through itself, helping to speed up the warming of the engine, bringing it up to temperature faster. Once you reach the temperature of operation, the thermostat opens, and now allows coolant to pump through the radiator to cool (while still pumping some through the bypass, albiet marginal) The thermostat here works like a regulator of sorts, keeping the engine at it's proper temperature, and preventing the engine from over pumping through itself without pumping through the thermostat. So while many say 'oh it overflows water and then it can't cool' isn't true at all...what it does is disrupt flow, causing the system to not flow properly...which then causes it heat up, and cause (eventually) a runaway condition. Now if there wasn't a bypass routed into our system, and you wanted maximum cooling ability, it would be fine (although that would only apply to a track car IMO...)
With that said, by removing the thermostat the system end sup flowing at max rate it will not allow the engine to 'maintain' a constant temperature, nor will it allow the engine to operate in it's proper operating range. In regard to restriction being needed, I don't believe that either...as the rad cap's ability to maintain pressure should prevent any sort of air being built up by no restriction.
Thank you for the information. I will go with the Nismo one.
Nismo one is NOT a good idea for a street car. OEM is best, you want to have temp up to 180* so the ECU is not changing the timing (as it thinks the car is warming up)
Cliffs for the thread:
-No thermo will keep it cold, but it will eventually overheat and not cool back down.
-Thermostat allows cooling system to flow properly
-Thermostat allows proper operating temps
-Overcooling an engine through lower thermo stat is unnecessary for our cars in a street setup (some cars out there can benefit from one, but not ours)as you want it to get to closed loop/operating temp and stay there as fast as possible.
Simon1
11-15-2011, 08:22 AM
Yeah, I am going to bleed the cooling system next time I get a chance...just to make sure.
What have people done as far as ducting to get fresh air to the radiator?
Are there any scoops or vents that can make the hole a bit "prettier" if I decide to cut some vents in my front bumper?
First of all you should concentrate on the radiator.
If we face the problem of the radiator then we can easily save from the problem of the cooling that is really important to tackle the problem of the cooling.
norwalk personal trainer (http://straightupfitness.com/norwalk-fitness-trainer/)
cdlong
11-15-2011, 11:29 AM
If i remember, water is made from hydrogen AND oxygen.
What causes air in coolant system, is cavitation from the water pump, and from temperature (you know that water is boiling from about 100°C, and a little more under pressure)
as long as you have water, OR a mix of water and anti-freeze, there will be air in the cooling system ;)
Cavitation and vapor from boiling water isn't air, it's water vapor. Cavitation is localized boiling when the pressure drops to a point that the boiling point drops below the current temp (Ideal gas law and all, as pressure drops, so does the boiling point). The bubbles are water vapor and as soon as the local pressure around the bubble (i.e., it's not behind the water pump blade anymore) goes back to normal, it recondenses back into water.
Separating water into hydrogen and oxygen requires electrolysis or thermolysis, neither of which are possible inside an automobile engine. Even if it did, they like each other so much, it would recombine back into water pretty quickly.
chiboy002
11-16-2011, 12:08 AM
Thank you for the information. I will go with the Nismo one.
no, matej
the nismo one is has too cool of an opening point for a street car. your cooling system wont be at the right temp which is also pretty bad for the engine
just stick with oem nissan, it opens at a proper temp. It works on track/street so no worries there
Matej
11-16-2011, 12:14 AM
Thank you for the advice, OEM it is then. :)
Pandapants
11-16-2011, 07:55 AM
if your system has been bled, there shouldn't be anyway any air can get back into the system, i don't understand where you guys are getting that info from. If you are low on coolant.... very low, or have a leaking head gasket, i dont see how air can magically form in the radiator system...
swirl pots / surge tanks are intended for fuel systems, to keep a constant amount of fuel availible for the engine... Thats it...
unless you like wasting money and time on something that is useless...
iirc, vapor bubbles form from hot spots in your motor, effectively decreasing the cooling efficiency of water and/or coolant. Coolant breather tanks and swirl pots are suppose to remedy this issue by continuously swirling the water/coolant.
XxHybridx
04-03-2012, 07:25 PM
thought this was a pretty good thread so im bumping it back. I have a question, after an accident my car didn't run for about a 11 months. fixed the car and just had to replace the radiator after the accident. now of course air got into the cooling system, and car ran fine for a whole day then it started heating up towards end of day. so i figured there was air in the system, i got the air out and the temp problems went away.
Now a few days later my temp spiked up for about 5 seconds then it went back down and it hasn't done it since then. car has been running fine now.
Running no electric fans since the stock one got chewed up by the clutch fan. All im running is clutch fan now (brand new one). will not running that tiny electric fan really make a difference. just wondering why my temp spiked up for a second.
oh, and my damn bleeder valve is broken.
fliprayzin240sx
04-03-2012, 07:58 PM
Electric fan just turns on with the AC on...helps cool the AC condenser more than anything else.
cdlong
04-03-2012, 09:48 PM
It also turns on when the ECU reads coolant temps of more than 192 degrees. Or something, I just pulled that number out of my ass, it's in the FSM though. But yeah, I wouldn't bother. You probably just have another air bubble.
stilmissmysti
04-03-2012, 10:22 PM
If i remember, water is made from hydrogen AND oxygen.
What causes air in coolant system, is cavitation from the water pump, and from temperature (you know that water is boiling from about 100°C, and a little more under pressure)
as long as you have water, OR a mix of water and anti-freeze, there will be air in the cooling system ;)
don't forget to use demineralized water to prevent of rust.
you use demin water to prevent scale not rust, rust comes from oxidation not minerals
S-Nation S13
04-03-2012, 10:39 PM
such a great debate over e-fans,clutch fans..choose what you want.. just make sure your coolant system if bleed..and youll be ok
Imarvin240
04-04-2012, 12:30 AM
as for what Codyace said, I completely agree that flow is one of the most important things when cooling an engine. I am currently in the middle of doing a liquid to air intercooler system and I am also not running the factory water pump on the engine. I am running an electronic water pump with a controller that will be in car so I can change the flow rate and on/off temperature for when the car is on the track, street, warm up, ect. By doing that, I also get rid of the factory pump and just put a plate over it, creating less resistence on the engine and the coolant traveling behind the plate. There are a few companies that make a "good" kit and they aren't even that much money. but like everyone has said, in the end you have to bleed the system properly.
Surprised no one has thrown this up.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_MHfhu_t5KII/TDgkrKaFttI/AAAAAAAABMA/AzQENaPYWIY/s1600/DSC00439.jpg
really cool mod.
i had an idea to put ducts behind where the bumper was, and direct it to the areas needed, but i never got a good idea of how i would do it.
this helps a lot. hopefully i'll be able to use some sort of other material other than that and it efficiently cool my car just as well.
pacotaco345
04-30-2013, 10:03 PM
Sorry for the bump but I've read through this thread before and I'm getting ready to drive back home from TX to CA for summer break. I (obviously) had no heating issues during the drive to and from for winter break, car stayed below 180* for the most part, and the first time I drove out at the beginning of the school year the hottest it got outside was 80* and for the most part my water temps were low 190*. If I wasn't planning on ditching the ka for an sr next month I'd get a bigger radiator but for now I'm running:
OEM plastic rad
mishi 140* thermostat
Altima fans (come on at 185* shut off at 175*)
100% distilled with a bottle of water wetter
I went on an hour ish long drive over the weekend when it was about 80* out and my car was hitting mid 190s, on the freeway, doing 70, not uphill. However as soon as I get off the freeway and sit at a light my temps drop to ~170* within the minute of me sitting stopped. This is kinda concerning me. The only difference between this setup and the previous one (last summer) is that now I have a W9 bumper instead of the OEM chuki one, which doesn't have that plastic lower shroud that goes all the way back to the core support.
Anyways, I guess my questions are 1) What are your guys' operating temps with stock radiators and 2) Should I make up some sort of lower shroud? I was thinking just some cardboard or balsa wood would work for the time being...
BlackZenkiS14
04-30-2013, 10:14 PM
What is the best aftermarket under tray to aid in cooling? And have some level of protection as well?
ZenkiZenki14
04-30-2013, 10:30 PM
Koyo Radiator
ISIS Fans And Shroud
ISIS Thermostat
ISIS Hoses.
- Been running these on my car for about a year with about a bunch of trackdays, never once overheated. My car also sounds like a damn hurricane up front from these fans pulling so much air!
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm72/pingisasian/Nissan%20240sx/289572_258620717499534_100000548224954_1020717_550 5576_o.jpg
Took the words right out of my mouth, I have the same fans and shroud, and he's not lying when he says they sound like a hurricane, cause they really do.
I'm running
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto hoses
Isis duel electric fans and shroud (same ones as pictured)
Stock thermostat
Also I have a PBM HMIC so I get more direct air to my radiator.
No overheating or high engine temp issues whatsoever!
feito
04-30-2013, 11:34 PM
running oem clutch fan on my dd rb25 s14, no shroud, havent had the luck of finding one, maybe will have to build my own, anyway, never once overheated, im even running a stock thermostat, and that's in the texas' heat where we see 100's daily during summer
Seraphim38
05-01-2013, 09:16 AM
My new SR build runs too cool. It hovers at 130 degrees and only gets up to 150 when driven hard for a prolonged amount of time. I am changing out the thermostat to ensure that it isn't stuck open. My oil never gets to or above 140 degrees. I have a DIF fan controller I have yet to install. I suspect that the thermostat has a pin-hole drilled in it to ensure that it always flows a small amount of fluid, which helps it stay cool, and I will confirm this in the next couple days after the thermostat is swapped for a Mishimoto unit.
Koyo Radiator | Blitz radiator cap | Circuit Sports reservoir | Samco hoses | dual Altima electric fans with one disconnected | Stance water pump pulley | S14 water neck with AN turbo line welded in | GTX turbo wrapped with a thermal blanket |Circuit Sports oil block adapter | Pirtek fabricated AN lines | Offenhauser remote oil filter mount | Permacool oil thermostat | 13 row oil cooler | intercooler hoses are all stainless custom fabricated | Greddy R Spec intercooler
BlewByYou
05-01-2013, 09:34 AM
running oem clutch fan on my dd rb25 s14, no shroud, havent had the luck of finding one, maybe will have to build my own, anyway, never once overheated, im even running a stock thermostat, and that's in the texas' heat where we see 100's daily during summer
What part of Texas?
InsTanCeZ
05-01-2013, 10:06 AM
GKTech Replacement Engine fan - Nissan S13/S14/S15 SR20DET (http://www.frsport.com/GKTech-Replacement-Engine-fan---Nissan-S13-S14-S15-SR20DET_p_59175.html?gclid=CJqnofWj9bYCFUFo4Aod_nA A2Q)
This looks good. It's supposed to be better than an RB25 fan.
Edwin562
05-01-2013, 10:07 AM
GKTech Replacement Engine fan - Nissan S13/S14/S15 SR20DET (http://www.frsport.com/GKTech-Replacement-Engine-fan---Nissan-S13-S14-S15-SR20DET_p_59175.html?gclid=CJqnofWj9bYCFUFo4Aod_nA A2Q)
This looks good. It's supposed to be better than an RB25 fan.
This is on my next to buy list.
jr_ss
05-01-2013, 11:37 AM
Proper ducting would be the best cooling mod... People running around without the lower splash guard complaint of over heating issues, need to fab or reinstall theirs.
feito
05-01-2013, 04:25 PM
What part of Texas?
San antonio
BlackZenkiS14
05-01-2013, 09:28 PM
I'd love to see some pics of some under guards that everyone has built? I'm thinking about doing a PBM one, but I'm honestly not sure if its worth it, or if I can built one better. Would be cool to get some ideas based on what everyone else has done.
zombiewolf513
05-01-2013, 09:31 PM
I'd love to see some pics of some under guards that everyone has built? I'm thinking about doing a PBM one, but I'm honestly not sure if its worth it, or if I can built one better. Would be cool to get some ideas based on what everyone else has done.
I've been thinking about the same exact thing.
MrSanchez925
05-13-2013, 07:44 PM
For the people who run the Isis fan and shroud set up,
What are you temps just normal driving?
PandahZ650
05-13-2013, 10:28 PM
For those overheating with a stock/oem thermostat should definitely try running a lower temp thermostat, or even no thermostat. All these big radiators, fans, ducting, etc. can only do so much if the thermostat isn't opening up at a low enough temp. for your motor.
nobody mentioned a vented hood. sucking in air is all nice, but it's gotta go somewhere... i noticed improved temps on my previous car with a vented hood... i'm gonna make a mold for one for the sx as soon as im finished with more pressing stuff.
my setup:
driftworks aluminium rad
samco hoses
oem stat
dual e fans, nissan , i don't remember what car
havent installed the rad yet, the car now has a radiator what the previous guy says its from an s14, but it seems tiny to me, like 2cm thick, single core.
Drift_FX
05-13-2013, 11:50 PM
For those overheating with a stock/oem thermostat should definitely try running a lower temp thermostat, or even no thermostat. All these big radiators, fans, ducting, etc. can only do so much if the thermostat isn't opening up at a low enough temp. for your motor.
have you not read this thread at all? no thermostat can result in coolant flowing too quicly through the radiator to cool the liquid effieciently..... dont offer your 2 cents if you dont know what your talking about please....
PandahZ650
05-14-2013, 12:40 AM
have you not read this thread at all? no thermostat can result in coolant flowing too quicly through the radiator to cool the liquid effieciently..... dont offer your 2 cents if you dont know what your talking about please....
A couple of my friends have used no thermostat/drilled out thermostat at the track and their temps were fine. So i guess my own two eyes and previous posts in this thread are not good enough to verify that it can work in some situations depending on your setup.
I'm not trying to get in an argument here but I was trying suggest that those with oem thermostat that are overheating/high temps could try to run a lower temp thermostat to cool the temps with a secondary less recommended choice of a drilled out/no thermostat, my intentions of the sentence was to focus mainly on running a lower temp thermostat. I guess i just worded it badly. Just offering my thoughts and opinions on what i think is one of the best cooling mods(opinionated topic). Just my opinion and 2c , take it or leave it.
PeaceOnesxWai
05-14-2013, 01:52 AM
Swirl pot and expansion tank. The radiator i was gonna use was a 3 pass MR2 Radiator
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y55/aznnoodleboi51/photo3_zpsfeaf0670.jpg
Got the idea from this.
http://image.nengun.com/catalogue/1024x768/nengun-3503-02-billion-swirl_pot_header_tank.png
PeaceOnesxWai
05-14-2013, 01:59 AM
This is pretty cool, uses 4 radiators (welded L-Shape) and rear mounted.. high mounted expansion tank
This thing probably uses 2 gallons of coolant
http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/RSR-V8-86-10.jpg
http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/RSR-V8-86-11.jpg
Where is everybody getting your water temp reading from? I run in the 180-200 range, but my temp gauge is on the water neck output. Is that too hot?
jr_ss
07-19-2013, 03:02 PM
This is pretty cool, uses 4 radiators (welded L-Shape) and rear mounted.. high mounted expansion tank
This thing probably uses 2 gallons of coolant
My car uses 2.5gals of coolant and all I have is a Koyo radiator on an SR20VET...
jr_ss
07-19-2013, 03:07 PM
Where is everybody getting your water temp reading from? I run in the 180-200 range, but my temp gauge is on the water neck output. Is that too hot?
Mine is on the coolant outlet and I saw temps between 195-220ish... SR's tend to run hot and I've heard of dudes running 240* while tracking their car.
which is a better fan? altima dual fans or a single ford taurus?
does the ford fan blow harder?
jr_ss
07-19-2013, 04:12 PM
which is a better fan? altima dual fans or a single ford taurus?
does the ford fan blow harder?
Did you not read the CFM's posted in the first post of that fan thread? The Taurus fan on low(2500CFM's) flows more than the Altima fan on high(2200CFM's). So yes, it "blows" harder.
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