Revise and rebuild I suppose...

[s14unimog]

What's funny is that these days, this isn't really anything special. Guy has an S14 with an SR in it; seen that before. Some how I find myself just a little different from the typical drift car/owner combo though. I figure if you're gonna do it, you need to commit to it and figure out the details. IF not, you really shouldn't (in an opinion that doesn't really matter) be doing this; sorry I don't approve of doing stuff the easier quicker way.

Now don't get me wrong, I don't have unlimited resources or funds for my car. I earn a decent salary but mainly flip bikes and cars to support the higher dollar parts. I try to do things the best I can, so typically that yields a functional part that isn't overly pretty. Either the case, here is what I'm doing.

This is a brief history on the car.

Bought in 2003 basically stock, SE, Mediterranean Blue, 53k miles. Look how proud I was :love:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/meandmycar.jpg

I was pretty stoked to be driving this to highschool; drifting wasn't "cool" yet and V8's meant business. I can still hear the Honda's leaving the parking lot and trying to catch their shifts so it sounded like they weren't automatic; you know what I'm talking about. That shit cracked me up.

I pretty much hit Ziliva right after getting the car, I remember seeing an SR for the first time and thinking that was amazing. Those cars had a presences and it was not a common thing. Now I'm not getting into this who was in to 240's sooner bull shit. That stuff was new to me and the community was fairly small. This sorta talk seems to incite that annoying conversation.

A couple years went by, I went to college and finally had enough money and experience to attempt turboing the KA. I was orriginally surprised when it got the attention it did, I just couldn't afford an SR and wanted to be boosted. Drifting isn't fun with an N/A KA. That's when I did this (#/f/tech-talk/95722-my-ka-t-complete-pictures.html) thread.

So the car went a little further. Made 209whp @ 10psi with a T25 and sidemount from an SR.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/KA-Tfinallydone004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/KA-Tfinallydone010.jpg

A couple years after that, I bought a black top, put some old Volks on it and coilovers.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/dirtynasty010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Myotherbaby008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/DSCF2309.jpg


Then a deal came up with a buddy of mine that was selling his GT28RS SR car that had some knock. Basically buy the car, swap the engines, my BPU setup for this moderately tuned one, plus a bit on top to repair the damage in the other. Seems simple enough.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Sheshere008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/enginebay.jpg

So I picked a holiday weekend and got to it. I basically needed the black car with my engine so I could get to school on Wednesday.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/DSC03106.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SRtransplant026.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SRtransplant029.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/s145DDstatus4.jpg


At this point I wasn't driving the blue car anymore, which was a weird feeling. I rented a storage unit down the street and had the short block assembled by a Tiger Racing. After a couple discussions with Sam, the owner of the shop, he had convinced me to ditch the 28RS and go for more power with the 20G. So that's what I did. Basic specs are as follows...

-S14 SR block (VVT plugged) / s13 SR head / 264 HKS cams / Eagle rods / ARP head studs / Cosworth 1.5 MLS / TD0620G turbo / 740's / Nistune / All New bearings / guides & chain. Basically the works on stock pistons. The car made 394whp @ 18psi. Also made a couple exterior & suspension improvements along the way. You can read more about that here (#/f/chat/221815-96-zenki-slight-overhaul.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/DSC00438.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Christmaswiththefamily031.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Christmaswiththefamily056.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Jan09progress028.jpg

After this the car was pretty solid. I drove it to and from the drift events pretty consistently. The car was stupid fast and never gave any headache until one night. Unfortunately I had never noticed the pedal range of motion compared to the throttle cable pull length and broke a throttle body hinge, dislodging one of the screws. The number 4 ate it and while doing so threw a rocker. Sounded like that terrible engine failure sound from a big turbo Supra video. Repaired that...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/HeadRepaircont5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/HeadRepaircont6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/HeadRepaircont1.jpg

By this time, I had things back together with new valve guides in a spare head I had. The car ran pretty solid for another stretch before finally shattering the ring lands on the #1 after some winter weather spikes; 23psi. Here is how it looked around then. I finally got some solid wheels, and touched up a few more things; mainly in the interior.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/04-01-10008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Feb2010019.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Feb2010023.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Lanier1.jpg

[s14unimog]

Here is the damage. After a leak down test confirming the number one was at fault, I got to put eyes on the issue. :Owned:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/BreakDown04-22-11016.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/BreakDown04-22-11019.jpg

What the catch can was showing....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Blow-byissue03-08-113.jpg

Luckily the block wasn't damaged... I was expecting some unrepairable carnage to those cylinder walls, but I couldn't find a single mark.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/BreakDown04-22-11023.jpg


So off to the machine shop it goes. The goal this time for the car is to improve some of the off-boost response and clean things up a bit. So here are the improvements. It's a decent list but a convenient time to get at it.

Engine:

CP 9:1 87mm pistons
Eagle rods
ARP head studs
ARP main studs
ACL race bearings
Cosworth 1.2mm MLS
Balanced rotating assembly
Polished crank

Chassis related:

shorter charge piping
tubed front fenders
solid subframe mounting
minimalism harness
general clean up of engine bay
repair PS leak issues
repair transmission issues
make something even cooler.

[420sx]

looks fun man. sounds like my story all goes back to 04. except mine went ka/sr/ls1.

keep it posted on the work with plenty of pics.

[Eyegazm]

looks good, keep em coming!

[s14unimog]

With the motor out of the car, and the problems identified, the block is off to the shop for inspection/machining. At this point I wasn't sure if we needed to over-bore the block b/c as I said there wasn't any damage so I held off from buying pistons until I got some word back from the shop. After a complete tear down there and some checking, we decided it would be better off to go with a set of 87's and rebore/hone. More on that a little later.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/rebuildcont-06-28-11007.jpg

With the engine out, I was left with this. Usually the sight of my car in this condition starts to raise frustration b/c I've previously done all my swaps and builds in either an apartment complex parking lot or the back driveway behind my dad's house; neither of which makes for an enjoyable experience. With my new to me house and a disconnected 2 car garage, I'm set to take my time and really build what I want.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/BreakDown04-22-11015.jpg

In an attempt to keep some room in the shop, I decided to leave the engine bay alone for a bit and turn my attention to the rear. I figured, it might go quicker and its pretty straight forward. So thanks to SPL the first of new parts show up for my solid sub frame mounting

Diff bushings

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SPLDifferentialBushings3.jpg

V2 solid mounts with removable spacers.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SPLSubframeBushings1.jpg

Before all of this, I had spent a little time upgrading bits back here but nothing as serious as this and with the subframe out from under the car it was time to see what the last couple years of drifting had done. So as most people often see, my slip-in collars couldn't prevent the inevitable bushing tear. Both fronts were almost completely severed and the ES poly bushings I had for the diff (including my track day worm clamp fix) weren't looking so good either.

All modifications to this point were: slip-in subframe collars / ES diff bushings / CS poly hangers / CS multi-links / some eccentric poly bushings for camber correction (the first mod the car saw after springs, lol) / the billet spacer I made for the driveshaft after switching from an ABS VLSD R200 to a non-abs housing that I put a KAAZ unit in and the 300zx rear brake/ebrake assembly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-112.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-113.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-114.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-117.jpg

This is how that tear down went. The most un-fun thing ever. burning them out is NOT the way to do it. That process is messy, takes forever, and stinks. I used my drill and went around drilling holes until the center of the bushing would come out. Then took a reciprocating saw to cut the majority of the bushing and finally ending with a hack saw. I like to use the hack saw towards the end b/c the bushing will pinch the saw once its completely cut. You can't tell what's going on with the power saw and risk cutting up the subframe.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-1117.jpg

Voila!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-1120.jpg

Welded on some heavy case washers to lock out the eccentrics and pressed in all of the bushings. I must have taken that last picture before the diff bushings went in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-1122.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-1126.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-1125.jpg

So then I though, if I've come this far, I might as well do a bit more. So I pulled all the control arms, pressed out all of the old bushings and ball joints.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-1129.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/SubframeOverhaul-06-05-1130.jpg

With everything in hand, and ready for new parts I wasn't feeling the dodgy look of all the parts. So I had everything powder coated fine texture black; because why not? Also bought all new ES black bushings, and ball joints for the spindles, lower and forward control arms.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4051.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4053.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4054.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4056.jpg

[HPKMotorsports3]

sweet progress man... what else do you have planned?

[s14unimog]

^ A good bit actually, I'm trying to cover everything I listed up above.

[va240dude]

Love that power coat black work, suspension parts look dope. Great job!

[Trap Star]

Whos doing your machine work? I haven't decided on a machine shop yet, I kind of want to go to someplace that is at least a little bit familiar with SR's.

[chituntang]

Met you a few times on a dyno day, buying stuff from you, etc... Know exactly what you are talking about and most of the stuff you went through. Too bad I am leaving the country by the end of this year and heading home for quite some time before even considering coming back so no more S-chassis money pit for me...

Keep it up!

P.S. "No Zenki love?!" quoted from you...

[s14unimog]

Love that power coat black work, suspension parts look dope. Great job!

Thanks! I don't see any use it coating those parts a loud color.

Whos doing your machine work? I haven't decided on a machine shop yet, I kind of want to go to someplace that is at least a little bit familiar with SR's.

I had David over at Carroll's Engine Rebuilders do the machine work. Let me tell ya, this guy is meticulous and has been building engines for the last 35 years. He's always done all the work to any of my engines and it's always been the most incredible detailed oriented work for the best bargains. I was originally concerned he would be a little lose with the SR but not at all. When get to some of the engine stuff, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Met you a few times on a dyno day, buying stuff from you, etc... Know exactly what you are talking about and most of the stuff you went through. Too bad I am leaving the country by the end of this year and heading home for quite some time before even considering coming back so no more S-chassis money pit for me...

Keep it up!

P.S. "No Zenki love?!" quoted from you...

Nice! Maybe over at Mainstream or Balanced? I'm sure I would remember the face. Gotta love that Zenki face. I've got some new goodies for that too. :naughtyd:

[Trap Star]

I had David over at Carroll's Engine Rebuilders do the machine work. Let me tell ya, this guy is meticulous and has been building engines for the last 35 years. He's always done all the work to any of my engines and it's always been the most incredible detailed oriented work for the best bargains. I was originally concerned he would be a little lose with the SR but not at all. When get to some of the engine stuff, you'll see what I'm talking about.
Nice, I'll have to check them out. I just need to get the head decked and get my bottom end checked out just to make sure everything is good down there so its pretty basic stuff but I don't want to have to do this again anytime soon so I'd like it to be done right the first time around.

[igreek]

Nice build man! Think I met you one time at Lanier Speedway. We were talking about me going KA-T.

[s14unimog]

UPDATE

So I took a minute and got the parts together. I think everything looks WAY better as one color. I've gotta tell ya, pressing in those ES bushings can be a real PIA. The ones for the spindle are one piece bushings and getting that first edge to collapse, without the bushing shooting out of the arbor press, can be tricky. Also I got a chance to confirm that rear ball joints on the S14 are in fact identical front and rear. It's amazing how difficult it is to confirm this; as if everyone on the internet is afraid to confirm this. Enough talk, on with the pics!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings018.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings019.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings013.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings017.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings030.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings031.jpg

Now before anyone says anything about the ball joints, let me explain my reasoning here. I've read through the "roll center" thread, read through threads on NRR and participated some in the discussions. I realize that offsetting the joint location, as these do here, is not the fix for roll center adjustments. What I do know is that I'm not nearly as low as a lot of you try to go for. I still want a decent suspension stroke and have no interests in being as low as possible. The offset location in these will reduce the static angle on the ball joint, which will help their life, it also lowers the arm enough to avoid gaining positive camber on compression. I may change this in the future but for now, I'm going to give them a shot. For reference, I run Tein Flex's with 8kg/s front and 7kg/s rear springs. Considering most drift cars this is much softer and provides me a lot of suspension movement; I just have to sit up higher to prevent bottoming out the shock/wheel.


Here is everything fitted to the car.... I raised the rear as much as I could. Tubs are up next!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings023.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings034.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings036.jpg

[Edwin562]

nice progress....

[Okinawandrifter87]

Loving the progress! Subscribed.

[420sx]

attention to detail is where its at

[s14unimog]

Tub Time!

Since I don't sit slammed I really didn't have many rub issues. Occasionally at some drift events, with banked turns, I would get that over the hood smoke from the front at full compression but it was nothing more than a highly polished spot on the inner fender. What really drove me to do this was the previous owners attempt to route piping. Now I bought my car stock but came to find out that the previous owner had attempted a T3 KA-T setup but popped the motor shortly after the install. They replaced the KA, took it as much as possible back to stock and he traded it in to a Subaru dealership for a WRX.

With the motor out of the bay, you can really see why I wanted to address this... :down: (the second picture was after a small amount of cutting. I basically connected the holes to the factory hole where the harness was routed)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11009.jpg

Here is how it went from there...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-25-11003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-25-11004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-25-11007.jpg

Here is everything I pulled, Took a minute and dropped a lot of the factory brackets as well. I grabbed one of those spot well drills from Harbor freight and it worked like a champ. I will admit though, those things will get away from you. If you've ever used one, then you know what I'm talking about.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-25-11010.jpg

And with the tires back on and weight on the car at full lock...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11019.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/rebuildcont-06-28-11003.jpg

[240Shwag]

Those spot weld drill bits are pretty handy. I used a center punch to make a good place for the centering post to ride in.

Your progress is awesome.

[s14unimog]

^ ya I did the same but some times it still gets out and walks across the sheet metal, leaving you with some interesting swirl marks; lol. Thanks!

[s14unimog]

Tubs Con't

So as most do, I took the trailer fender route. I really like the radius you get from the stamping over rolling a sheet myself. Not only does it look better, it's surely a stronger piece. I picked up one from the Tractor Supply Store for $45

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11002.jpg

With my handy spot weld drill, I knocked the back panel out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11003.jpg

Once I took a minute to think about the next step, it's pretty clear that you only need one. I'm always surprised when you put two things together and suddenly realize, that's a lot bigger than I thought. So I split it in two and starting working on the top edge to conform it to the shock tower.

If you'll notice I left a few things in place for this stage. I realize the S-chassis won't collapse with a significant amount of material removed up there but I tried to leave the towers alone until I got a chance to weld the new fenders in. I also left my brace in and torqued down. Here is how that went.

Old vs New

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11015.jpg

Conformed to the towers

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-25-11013.jpg

At this point there isn't much I can do without a welder. I have a small 220VAC MIG unit that could easily cover this but I haven't taken the time, or spent the money, to run 220 out to the garage so I had to load it up and run over to work.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4138.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4139.jpg


So I prepped the towers and got to tacking.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4140.jpg

Then the sides

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4141.jpg

Now for the flats, I wasn't interested in multiple pieces so I took a minute and came up with a pretty intense flat pattern and formed up some .065" sheet.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4142.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4143.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4144.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4145.jpg

After some careful measuring, here's the piece broke and in place. I was pretty beat after that and called it a night, I think it was 3:30 by this point. It's amazing how long shit takes some times... More to come!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4146.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4147.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4148.jpg

[JDM_Tuner]

Nice build man keep it up!

Also If you wanna sell those Rota grids lmk

[blueshark123]

what seats are the ones in ur car corbeau a4?

[onehundredoctane]

Keep it up man! She looks good!

[s14unimog]

Nice build man keep it up!
Also If you wanna sell those Rota grids lmk

Thanks, but these are my track wheels, so I won't be looking to sell them any time soon.

what seats are the ones in ur car corbeau a4?

I have different ones. Driver is a Sparco Corsa and the passenger is a Sparco Toreno

Keep it up man! She looks good!

Thanks!

[s14unimog]

Keepin on keepin on

I got the all the parts built now and so moving on to the modifications the tower needed to really take advantage of the tubs. Here is how I cut that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/tubscont-07-02-11018.jpg

I made sure to leave a small tab so I could overlap the side panels; this will surely help restructure that area. and in case you haven't noticed the jack, I actually did all of the welding and cutting while the car was lifted by the cross member. We all know metal moves when you get it hot and I figured that had to be the best position to support it while doing all this; along with keeping the strut bar in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/tubscont-07-02-11020.jpg

Then with the parts back in for final fitment...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/tubscont-07-02-11024.jpg

And the same for the other side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4345.jpg

Fast forward to the car back at the house and all welding done with 1" spacing. I'm very pleased with how they came out. There is miles of room now, lol.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/TubsCont-07-30-1111.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubscont-07-23-11004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubscont-07-23-11008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubscont-07-23-11005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/TubsCont-07-30-111.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/TubsCont-07-30-113.jpg


That's all I got done for now. It took a lot longer than I had expected, but either the case, the car is back in the garage and I've got tons planed! It's really coming back together now!!!

Oh and I spoke with David @ Carroll's Engine Rebuilders and we're going with a 0.020" over bore. So I got those ordered. CP 9:1 87mm ordered through Enjuku, thanks guys! Looks like weapon's grade plutonium or something, haha. More to come!!!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/865mm9-1CPpistons-07-06-110011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/865mm9-1CPpistons-07-06-110012.jpg

[hummer96]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FLCAenergysuspensionbushings030.jpg

Thanks!

What do you have that's single lug?

[s14unimog]

their for a GT3 cup car I've got. :naughtyd:

Na, they're actually two back there and their from BBS mfg. plant over in Braselton. A friend of mine's dad worked there and they're slightly damaged.

[s14unimog]

Still working on it...

With the motor off at the machine shop and the tubs done I moved on to my next project. One thing I really don't enjoy about the 20G is the lag. Love the power. Hate the lag.

Considering all exhaust plumbing is run well, the turbo is already ceramic coated and it would save me a grand or so, I'm going to give the 20G another shot but hopefully provide a better setup; with an aim towards response. Naturally what should one do. Shorten the pipes. So being the cheap ass I am I opted to cut up the VSPL core I've got, flip it upside down, and straight shot the pipes through the core support. Here is how that's going...


With the uprights in rough shape I opted to get some new ones through Nissan. Fabricated some end caps for the frame ends, now cut back to the core.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/TubsCont-07-30-1113.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/TubsCont-07-30-1117.jpg

I'm going to try and shot straight through there...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/TubsCont-07-30-1118.jpg

The new uprights came in

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4462.jpg

first thing to go is the lower mounts. I TIG'ed this on about 2 years ago. They look terrible but held up great.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4465.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4464.jpg


So shift forward a couple nights and I've got a plan in hand and some more time to get this going. No going back now...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification3.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification12.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification14.jpg

Next I'll be welding the end connections over the holes and blend the entrance/exit so I don't create a large pressure drop across the cooler. More on that in a little bit.

[s14unimog]

10/25 update

Considering the time all of this is taking and the rust is starting to collect on a couple panels, I decided to bounce back over to painting the tubs. So I got a couple of things from the paint shop and got to it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/EngineBayOverhaulcont-08-16-11014.jpg

Everything sanded down, prepped and ready for primer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/EngineBayOverhaulcont-08-16-11004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/EngineBayOverhaulcont-08-16-11001.jpg


Starting to look a little better now.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/EngineBayOverhaulcont-08-16-11009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/EngineBayOverhaulcont-08-16-11010.jpg

[s14unimog]

Motor's done.

Yet again, David over at Carroll's Engine Rebuilders, hooked me up. He did all of the following for about a grand.

-0.02" over-bore/re-hone
-fit/gap rings for the CP pistons
-install Eagle rods
-polished the crank
-installed ARP main studs (including counterboring the crank girdle and turning down two studs to clear the upper pan)
-decked the block with my S14 cover

Now there is a story behind this job. Since the block is from a VVT motor I told him to use an s14 cover I had in storage, instead of the s13 cover I was running. The last time I had this lower end built the guy just put an oversized washer on the upper corner bolt in an attempt to keep pressure on that side of the cover. If you don't know that's the only differences between the covers; or so I thought. After a closer look he discovers the outer oil pump gear was cracked in that s14 cover; so that was out. So why not just swap the pumps? There's the difference; the s14 pump is actually smaller in diameter than the s13's so you can't. They're unique to their covers. We inevitably just decided to re-install the s13 cover but properly mount it. So he decides he's gonna drill and tapped the block and installed a metric stud. What a champ thing to do.

-ACL race main/rod/thrust bearings
-installed both f/r main seals
-part washed everything
-5qts of Joe Gibbs break-in oil
-balanced and indicated clutch, flywheel, crank and dampener all with the rotating assembly.

All within about a month, and mainly b/c I waited on a couple last minute parts decisions.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9to1BuiltSR-Reassembly6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9to1BuiltSR-Reassembly7.jpg

I'm running the head, which was checked after the break down, I was previously running. I'm also doing another Cosworth head gasket but dropping from a 1.5mm to a 1.2mm, and running ARP head studs again.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9to1BuiltSR-Reassembly11.jpg

then to clear some space around the shop, and mainly b/c I just want to see it back together, I finished the long block.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9to1Reassemblycont-08-16-11006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9to1BuiltSR-Reassembly13.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9to1Reassemblycont-08-16-11008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9to1Reassemblycont-08-16-11011.jpg

[trainkiller]

Moooarrrrrrr!!

[Idk...Cameron]

great build man.

are you on 240atl? I swear i've seen that sig before.

[s14unimog]

great build man.
are you on 240atl? I swear i've seen that sig before.

Ya, but I don't get around on there much.

Exhaust repair

After assembling the motor I noticed, before installing my Tomei manifold, that it was cracked as the base of each runner. So I contacted Tomei just to see if they would do anything and after a few back and forth discussions and sending in a copy of my logged dyno sessions, they agreed that is should not have happened. So I figured while I wait for another one, I'm going to turn my attention to that damn Nur-Spec rattle. Just before doing my last motor, the rattle was really noticeable on my BPU SR; here is a quick video of that.

exhaust rattle.mpg - YouTube (http://youtu.be/G5sBI3v0uRg)

When I had the exhaust on the last engine it was less noticeable but still an annoyance. I contacted Blitz about it and they suggest I purchased an new muffler and be done with it. Considering I've already removed the resonator on this exhaust and I wasn't feeling the $400 muffler purchase, I figured I would cut it open and see what's going on inside. So this is what's inside a Blitz Nur-Spec; stuff looks beat...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4977.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4981.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4982.jpg

Here is the place it was rattling. You can see how the welds just separated from from the perforated steel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4979.jpg

I also noticed that it was slightly bent up on that end as if the perforated tube was actually too long for the assembly. So after cutting it down slightly, re-welding the torn perforated material (a real bitch to TIG). I packed it full of this exhaust fiber mate packing I found online and welded it back up. I have no idea what it's going to sound like and honestly, if the rattle is gone, I'm sure it'll be a good note but we'll see when the car get back running. Surely it'll be quieter?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Nur-SpecRepair-08-30-1110.jpg


All TIG'd back up! Don't hate, I know its not pretty but it'll be under the car and no one will know the difference. Getting there... One part at a time. My next update I'll be back on the intercooler modifications.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Nur-SpecRepair09-08-11.jpg

[d-man478]

Very nice build thread. Maybe I'll see you around at some events next year.

[s14unimog]

Back to the Intercooler

Now that the exhaust is sorted and considering I'm still waiting on another exhaust manifold, I figured I would get back on those intercooler modifications. As I left it, I had not yet sorted the re-oriented barbed connections, nor the mounts, b/c I was waiting on my uprights; plus I got distracted with the exhaust.

Here is how that went.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification-Cont.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification-Cont3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification-09-08-11.jpg

Some close ups on the welds. I'm still practicing, for lack of further explanation, so they're not exactly pennies; yet.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification-Cont1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification-Cont5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VSPLSidePortModification-Cont7.jpg


With the intercooler modifications finished up, I needed to sort the piping and body mounts for the upper bosses. I cut an area out of the core support so that the pipes will pass right next to the radiator but noticed after doing so I severely weakened the rigidity up there. Also considering I won't have a center strut (which houses the hood latch) and that my side struts are only bolted in place, I got to work on that a bit. The engine is back in for mock-up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_5030.jpg

Due to the angle of the picture, the pipe looks closer to the radiator than it really is. Also, if you'll notice, I sorta stretched the original fender well floor to meet the remaining of the core panel. I'll weld that later to help with some rigidity but I also plan to add some struts from the frame rails. More on that later.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_5031.jpg

Luckily I only needed to drop about a 4" section out of my cold pipe, so I took that out and tapped it together for now.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FenderBracing-09-12-11010.jpg

Since none of my original hotpipe will work, I'll have to come up with what I need and have it bent up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_5034.jpg

[s14unimog]

It's been a minute since my last update but progress has continued. Aside from the car, I picked up this abused '98 Altima and it's needed a bit more of my attention than I originally anticipated. Outside needing a timing chain (check that out HERE (#/f/media-forum-pictures-videos/417447-some-timing-chain-carnage-pics.html) for some comedy), it's needed a new clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, TOB, headlights, corner lights, tint removed and the list seems to keep getting longer. Either the case, its driveable now and out of my shop.

THEN, I've got this whole other interest in 4-wheel drives that is literately just as bad as my obsession with building this car. It's still daily-able but I feel within the coming year it, like the 240, will graduate to a level that is a bit absurd for normal commuting.

It's a 5-speed 1997 Cherokee(XJ) with a 4.5" lift, radius arm conversion, 32" Kumho M/T's, DOM steering bars/track bar, swaybar disconnects, custom bump stops, tube stinger bumper I built, and all the little details needed for a lifted truck. Since I bought this truck stock, it's got it's own build life that I've never spilled out but will I guess when the 240 is up again.

Here is a couple pictures from my latest trip to Uwharrie National Forest in NC. Pictures never do justice...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Jeep%20Cherokee/Uwharrietrip-10-23-11018.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Jeep%20Cherokee/Uwharrietrip-10-23-11071.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Jeep%20Cherokee/Uwharrietrip-10-23-11077.jpg

Rep'n Nissan!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Jeep%20Cherokee/FlexTest-03-05-11004.jpg


ANYWAYS....

The last I left it I had just finished the intercooler and cut down my cold pipe. After cutting the reliefs into the core support it was apparent that the core support and forward fender area rigidity had been greatly reduced. So I came up with some simple round bar struts to take up the support and seam welded the remainder of the core sheet paneling to the horizontal fender area. Here is some on that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FenderBracing-09-12-11002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FenderBracing-09-20-11004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FenderBracing-09-20-11002.jpg

After those support, you can literately stand on that corner with no deflection.

Since I removed the center strut from the core support I needed to tie the two outside ones together and come up with a mounting solution for my oil cooler; situated in the grille area. Here is what I did there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FenderBracing-09-12-11005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/FenderBracing-09-12-11007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/OilCoolerMounting-09-17-11004.jpg

And with my glass lights finally in from Germany, It's starting to look like a car again... Although its all got to come right the f*ck back out for paint.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/OilCoolerMounting-09-17-11002.jpg

If you didn't notice, I sorta jumped ahead of that oil catch tank. I really like the idea of mounting it to the engine so I made one over retaining that TopFuel hex shaped one I was running. I tried to mirror the shape the freeze plugs outline on the head. I did an "inspection port" rather than the clear tube route.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_5037.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VCMountCatchTank-09-08-11001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VCMountCatchTank-09-08-11002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/VCMountCatchTank-09-08-11003.jpg

If you're wondering, I got those weld in caps from APSracingusa.com They're a steal for the price and come with an O-ring and receiving boss. Well I bought two. Here is what I did with the other one. I needed a coolant reservoir, considering the stock one won't fit with the tubs, so I made this and mounted on the passenger side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Coolantoverflow-09-27-11001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Coolantoverflow-09-27-11002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Coolantoverflow-09-27-11005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/CoolantOverflowMountingCont-10-6-110075.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/CoolantOverflowMountingCont-10-6-110071.jpg

more to come....

[MikeyMikee]

i love this thread

[crazyshad1]

Great fabrication work.

[JaredP]

looking good man, sub'd

[eklips3]

you're a true artist

[s14unimog]

Thanks for the props guys; its nice to see a simple SR build hasn't lost appreciation. After finally receiving my hot pipe from Grand Bending and my back ordered Tial QR, progress continues. I jumped the gun about a month ago and measure out the piping thinking there wouldn't be any bends in it. After receiving the pipe, with rolled ends, I realized it wouldn't clear the radiator without touching. With the rolled ends, the pipe couldn't be fixtured in the bender again so I needed another piece. I revised my print with a 10* bend 6" from the end and 2 weeks later I had another part.

One of my past annoyances with the hot pipe and intake was that nothing was secured to anything. I had the intake resting on the factory fender and it drove me nuts; not to mentioned polished the paint off. So the idea this time is to attach it to the hot pipe with a bracket and this way it can move with the motor movement; which isn't much with Nismo mounts, but better than mounting it to the inside of the bay. Here is how that went.

I decided to go with the QR for a number of reasons. I've always loved the look of a 5-axis machined billet BOV, the choice of black anodizing goes perfect with the color scheme of my build, the SSQV Samurai sword *shh-ing* noise was getting old, and from my research/experience a recirculated BOV just works better on a MAFS system.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/TialQR.jpg

Considering all the little parts I made for this, I forgot to take pictures along the way but here are the components. The intake is a 3" mandrel I had Grand Bending do, the two bolt bracket will be the mount for the intake, the 1.25" barb fitting will provide the recirculation inlet, the smaller 0.313" barb will give my WOT negative pressure for the crank ventilation and of course the provided Tial mount flange.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Intakehotpipemachining1.jpg

Fast forward a couple nights and here is all that done.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11004.jpg

I'll say it again, my TIG isn't the best but it's solid and I'm getting better. All of the openings in the intake pipe have been machined and filed so there are no ledges on the fitting inlets; nor do they extend inward of the pipe.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11005.jpg

Here is the bracket mounted to the back side of the intake.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11008.jpg

My double ended barbed pressure pipe for the recirculation

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11009.jpg

After machining out the hole for the BOV perch I realized that the opening was close to the OD of the pipe so it was incredibly tedious to weld this on without blowing holes in it. I'm betting towards the sides the material on the perch and pipe were no more than 0.060" in tickness each. Almost as bad as trying to weld beer cans together.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11011.jpg

The opposite mount on the hotpipe. Yes I know it looks crocked but I promise they line up PERFECT.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11012.jpg

Here are the two mounted together off the motor. Notice the gap, it's just over 1/8" in clearance and SOLID.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11014.jpg

And on the car, plumbed to the turbo and intercooler, nothing changes

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11018.jpg

BOV and recirc. installed. The aluminum flange on the fender floor is for my "cold/ram air intake". It's actually a bumper duct you can buy from pitstopusa.com. A 3" barbed connection extends down approx 3/4" for a flex hose connection below the fender. It will be connected to the one I've attached to my Navan bumper.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11020.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11027.jpg

That other aluminum bracket you see on the bumper support is actually a ballast mount for the HID's. I've always been annoyed with placing that box so I bent up this mounts and riveted them to the bumper support. Here is how that's supposed to work.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/HIDBallastMounts-10-1-112.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/HIDBallastMounts-10-1-116.jpg

Now with the new filter in place. It's not going anywhere and has approximately 1.0" of clearance all the way around it. Notice the small barb will be connected to my catch tank; I don't have a hose for that yet.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IntakeComplete-12-14-11022.jpg

Finally, its looking like its coming back together. With the mock up finished, everything is coming back out, and I'm moving on to paint. I plan to do a single stage SEM Hot Rod Black quart kit in the bay area. Then I will be using a paintable 3M seam seal on the fenders from the underside, so I keep the tacked look, and 3M undercoat everything outside the bay. Should have that sprayed in a couple days :naughtyd:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Baymock-upComplete-12-14-111.jpg

[k.man]

Love your car, brother. keep it up.

Garage Entry - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZxkbEBwKQ0&feature=share)

[codyace]

DIY, the only way to fly! Nice stuff!

[JaredP]

love it man! whats the diameter on that bumper duct? i was looking into doin something exactly like that for my swap when it gets more "on the go" except im putting the filter underneath the fender for colder air

[s14unimog]

Thanks guys


love it man! whats the diameter on that bumper duct? i was looking into doin something exactly like that for my swap when it gets more "on the go" except im putting the filter underneath the fender for colder air

The bumper duct has a 3" diameter barb on the under side. I didn't put the filter down in the fender for a number of reasons. It's guaranteed to get dirty quicker, harder to protect from water, and the added length of the piping adds additional restriction on the turbo response. I plan to add an inline filter to my flex line, as to keep dirt, debris and water from blowing up in the engine bay but I should still see a decent drop in inlet air temperatures.

[C. Anderson]

This is coming out very clean. Good job! What kind of welder are you using?

[s14unimog]

Thanks! A couple actually. They're all my work's but for MIG I'm using a Millermatic 251 and TIG a Miller Syncowave

[project-D180]

coming along very nicely bro

[s14unimog]

Everything is back out and I'm aiming to shoot paint this weekend; just so long as the temperature don't plummet. Which reminds me, I need to go get propane.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Stripdownforpaint-12-17-11003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Stripdownforpaint-12-17-11004.jpg

[jr_ss]

Looks good man, I'm in the process of prepping my bay for paint... Just needs to be wiped down and shot with primer. Wish I had the availability/time to lay paint myself. I'll handle all the prep work though which should keep overall cost down. Keep it up dood!

[tqstarburst]

That's a very nice engine bay. Good work!

[s14unimog]

Preciate it. Sucks with all the family time over this Christmas weekend. It's looking like I won't get much done. That and my machinist from work and I came up with a pretty sweet Christmas present for my dad that has eaten up a bunch of time. I did some CAD work for him a couple months back so we got to trade out work. My dad's gonna trip.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2655.jpg

[s14unimog]

I'm starting to feel like road blocks with certain aspects of this rebuild are fueling distractions... That, and with typical fashion of South Eastern US climate, the weather is just about useless this time of the year. You don't really want to be too far from warm air, and it becomes everyones de-motivator to "do things". It's equally annoying when your trying to finish something that's stored in an un-insulated garage. Either the case, the painting is on hold and I started working on a turbo brace/actuator mount.

With the last expreme cracking at the runners I feel it couldn't hurt if I braced the assembly this go around. I still wish they would change their welding up a bit but that's apparently beating a dead horse...

I came up with a brace that will be affixed to the motor mount frame on the engine side. This is a rigid foot hold and is also the mount location for the factory brace. What is some-what funny is that 2 years ago, I ground the brace mounting locations off the compressor housing b/c they gave conflicts with my braided stainless coolant hose routing. I never had the brace and just did away with the ugly bosses. I also, around that time, coverted over to the HKS actuator and made a some what mediocre mount that I wasn't too proud of. Solution? Combine and rebuild.

I machined the main plate from 6061 1/4" plate and the foot from 3003 1/8". The plan is to tap respective metric threadings in the mount and weld the two together. Unfortunately I didn't have time to weld them tonight, and won't get too until the weekend, but you get the idea. The next update I should have the bay shot. Aw shit; COLOR!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_1301.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_0100.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_1592.jpg

[codyace]

That's a pretty slick turbo brace, and I really think that will help eliminate (or at least slow down) some of the failures with the tubular manfolds. The *only* think I could maybe suggest (and this is all on assumption) is that if you were to debate on selling them, that you would need to create a brace that could incorperate a few different 'clockings' of the compressor housing (if you know what I mean). This is where some of the rod end/turnbuckle soltuions end up working well as it self adjusts to many different setups. Not nitpicking just dropping the idea out there to ya :D

Either way, it's a good idea - a much needed one at that.

PS: I don't wanna hear any of the 'southeast temps' comments. It was 8 degreees last night up here ;)

[lazysk8er2]

Im not sure if you covered this but running flex pipe with your exhaust will lower the chances of cracking the manifold.

The brace is cool btw.

[Banana_Cute]

sweet stuff man. MOARRRR

[S-Nation S13]

Sweet ass build..if only I knew how to weld ..

[Junior x]

lovin the build, amazing fabrication, i do alot fab at work and plan on doing this with my 95. (: and i live in delaware, its f*%$ snowing and my car is apart and is under a car port with plywood as a door and fence on the sides :(

ps. stealing the idea you used for fender wells with the wheel lock. have the same problem and now found a good solution thanks!

[sex14]

this thread is full of win. btw what wheels are those? are they varsstoen?

[bc.]

First of all, great writing in this build, I can actually read everything you type without getting bored or confused.

When I saw your recirc setup I laughed and said, 'holy shit!' out loud. That is some cool shit right there man, I don't think I have ever seen anything like it before.

Keep on keepin' on, everything looks great.

[s14unimog]

Thank ya thank ya.

That's a pretty slick turbo brace, and I really think that will help eliminate (or at least slow down) some of the failures with the tubular manfolds. The *only* think I could maybe suggest (and this is all on assumption) is that if you were to debate on selling them, that you would need to create a brace that could incorperate a few different 'clockings' of the compressor housing (if you know what I mean). This is where some of the rod end/turnbuckle soltuions end up working well as it self adjusts to many different setups. Not nitpicking just dropping the idea out there to ya :D

Either way, it's a good idea - a much needed one at that.

PS: I don't wanna hear any of the 'southeast temps' comments. It was 8 degreees last night up here ;)

Thanks Cody! I don't intend to sell them for just that reason. There has got to be hundreds of different "bottom mount" turbo positions and equally as many boss locations and actuator mounting orientations to sift through. No thanks; lol. You are right though. Another detail that isn't that obvious in the picture is that the assembly fits there with about 0.01" interference. So as it sits it's actually just barely pushing up on the assembly. My fear was that it would be pulling on it; which might induce a premature failure.

I have to admit I'm a bit of a b*tch when it comes to cold weather but without snow, which I would be all over in the Jeep, I can't do anything with this mid 40's temperature. I would go 100% on my Jeep if I lived in temperatures like that.

Im not sure if you covered this but running flex pipe with your exhaust will lower the chances of cracking the manifold.
The brace is cool btw.

Ya and I've run them before but that can be hit or miss too. I'm also running poly exhaust hangers, poly engine/trans mounts and the exhaust has no conflict issues with the chassis. I have had the car like this for quite a while without issue and its been tracked often. The failure last time was right through the center of the weld and Tomei also agreed that despite the assembly, it should not have failed like that. If this manifold does the same thing then I'll just repair it myself and continue with the addition of a flex section.

this thread is full of win. btw what wheels are those? are they varsstoen?

Preciate it, I have a set of silver Rota Grids and polished/black J-Line 7SL2's; no Varrstoens

First of all, great writing in this build, I can actually read everything you type without getting bored or confused.
When I saw your recirc setup I laughed and said, 'holy shit!' out loud. That is some cool shit right there man, I don't think I have ever seen anything like it before.
Keep on keepin' on, everything looks great.

Thanks, I can feel ya on the grammar gripes that plague build threads often; it gets exhausting to try and figure out what they're sayin.

[onehundredoctane]

Love it when people diy and still manage to keep things simple and straight forward, not to mention CLEAN!

So the Uwharries huh? I grew up about 20 minutes from them, I hear there are some tough trails with huge rocks over there. . . never was into 4x4's but as I've gotten older I've been thinking more about it.

[s14unimog]

Ya man, K.I.S.S. I guess; lol. Ya man uwharrie was a riot and worth the 5+ hour drive. I'll probably go back again this year. There are plenty of places to challenge even the higher end built rigs. Shit, I almost rolled my truck twice.

[s14unimog]

HA! Screw you weather. Fortunately a 40k BTU heater and 8 gallons of propane later, I've overcome it! Cool thing about this little paint project is that it's the first of many things for me. It's the first time I've painted something indoors; which rocks! It's the first time, I got to use my new HVLP gun and its also the first time a paint project hasn't taken my efforts and smashed them to pieces. I have to tell you, painting is an incredibly rewarding part of any project. Instantly your months of hard work has been converted to a finished product. It's also one of the most frustrating things I've had to learn. In the past I've painted a hand full of things (valances, bumpers, wings, motorcycle fairings, etc...) all in all probably 15 or so different projects. Within that list, there has been equally as many headaches; if not more. This time however, not so much; thankfully.

Here's what I did.

Considering there was a good deal of new metal I prepared all of those surfaces with a 3M etch primer. As I detailed in some previous posts (I think) I capped the triangular openings at the back of the inner fenders, plug welded a bunch of the unused holes in the fenders, relocated where the engine harness passes through the firewall, capped and shortened the fronts of the frame rails, ground out all of the factory undercoating, removed the center core support/ hood latch strut and the tub work obviously. Here some pictures of that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_1054.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_2452.jpg

After some thought about what color, and how to produce the finish that would be ideal, I decided to go with something I was familiar with. I've had good success with this SEM's Hot Rod Black on a few bikes. It's tough as nails, fuel and oil resistant (to an extent) and produces the sheen that I wanted for the bay. It's also cheaper than a 2 stage with a flattening agent added to the clear. Here are a couple bikes I've done in the past.

I actually tried "dusting" this bike on the final coat to give it a flatter look.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Suzuki%20TL1000R/TL1000R03-17-11001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Ducati%20750SS/MyDucati750SS014.jpg

Supplies! All of this ran about $125

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_7374.jpg

Considering the new inner fender work, I opted to seam seal everything from the underside so that I could retain the stitched appearance in the bay. Here are a couple picture from that. It's a 3M paintable beige.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_5336.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_9685.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4690.jpg

With all of the involved body prep done, I constructed a paint booth from 1.5mil 20x10 plastic rolls and attached it to my rafters. After about a days worth of pre-heating the body, I waited for a mid 60*F day, to boost my heating ability, and shot the paint.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4827.jpg

Covered all of my bases, from prep & cleaning to temperatures to gun settings. Which finally brought me to that all important moment; shooting paint. For those who have not painted an engine bay before, it's not an easy target. You're constantly changing your fan pattern to get in all the nooks and crevasse; not to mention fighting the urge to paint what you must lean over to shoot the more interior features. Either the case, it's done. Fast forwarded for your viewing convenience; lol.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_3030.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_9415.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_5791.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_1239.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_8526.jpg

I've let the paint cure for a little over a week now and am now just waiting to receive my exhaust components back from ceramic coating. Should be Friday of this week. Once I have that back, I guarantee I'll have the motor back in and plumbed for good in under 6-7 hours. Now the fun begins!!!

[jr_ss]

Lookin good man... I dig the "protective" cap, should've just thrown a paint suit in with all your materials. I just finished priming my bay, guide coat sanding is a lot of work. Keepin my eye on this. Good luck

[s14unimog]

Ya.... It dawned on me AFTER I got home, so I said fuck it, I'm not washing paint out of my hair anymore.

On a side note; my exhaust parts are back from ceramic. Is this hot or is this hot?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Ceramiccoat-01-121.jpg

That's one fine looking 20G if you ask me.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Ceramiccoat-01-123.jpg

Unfortunately, however they forgot to ceramic coat the manifold hardware. I know it isn't necessary but I really regretted not doing it last time after I bolted the rusted OEM hardware over that pretty ceramic. Not this time.

I did however take a second and rivet in my cold air intake duct; that shit's poppin!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_4176.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_5563.jpg

[sex14]

awesome build man, thumbs up from a fellow zenki owner.

[homeslicej2]

Loving this still. I enjoy finding updates on your build. I know that's a Greddy turbo elbow, it looks like a Greddy DP too. Who did the ceramic coating? I've been thinking of having Swaintech coat all of my exhaust (to the test pipe) and hot side IC piping. Did you weld in a bung on the DP for a wideband O2 before the coating?

[JaredP]

looks sick man, i didnt realise in the tub thread that your bay was black (in the pics it looks like it has almost a bronze in it). all the pics answered any questions i may have had too and i cant wait to see the engine in.

ceramic coat sure is nice to deal with too, makes such a different

[s14unimog]

Loving this still. I enjoy finding updates on your build. I know that's a Greddy turbo elbow, it looks like a Greddy DP too. Who did the ceramic coating? I've been thinking of having Swaintech coat all of my exhaust (to the test pipe) and hot side IC piping. Did you weld in a bung on the DP for a wideband O2 before the coating?

Thanks man, ya it's a GReddy dump but a Blitz downpipe. I don't use the narrow band O2 sensor so I have my wideband in the dump pipe. Classic Powder & Ceramic in Winterville GA did all of the coating. The guys do killer work and never have any of my stuff for longer than a few days. That's who powder coated all of my suspension arms.

looks sick man, i didnt realise in the tub thread that your bay was black (in the pics it looks like it has almost a bronze in it). all the pics answered any questions i may have had too and i cant wait to see the engine in.
ceramic coat sure is nice to deal with too, makes such a different

Ya, it was probably the mixture of lighting. It's definitely very black. Thanks.

[A54]

Nice Thread...

[s14unimog]

Gettin there...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/86ff82e5.jpg

[OBEEWON]

Paint is as smooth as butter on a baby's bottom.

[homeslicej2]

Bay looks fantastic. Thanks for the heads up on the powdercoater, but Swaintech's ceramic exhaust coating is far beyond a simple paint or powdercoat. I'm glad Carroll's engine builders has experience with SR's and other imports with tight tolerances. Around here, all the machine shops are used to old Ford/Chevy/Dodge engines with massive tolerances (compared to imports & modern domestics that is). I wouldn't trust any of them with my little 4-banger.

[Junior x]

dammm looks good. glwb
(:

[s14unimog]

Paint is as smooth as butter on a baby's bottom.

Thank gawd! I would have gone postal if I had messed that up after everything.

Bay looks fantastic. Thanks for the heads up on the powdercoater, but Swaintech's ceramic exhaust coating is far beyond a simple paint or powdercoat. I'm glad Carroll's engine builders has experience with SR's and other imports with tight tolerances. Around here, all the machine shops are used to old Ford/Chevy/Dodge engines with massive tolerances (compared to imports & modern domestics that is). I wouldn't trust any of them with my little 4-banger.

I hear ya. The bottom of my carbon/frp hood can attest for this stuff though. Its amazing how well it works. David over at Carroll's is a real perfectionist, not to mention a really cool dude. If you get to use him in the future you won't regret him.

[codyace]

Nice choice on the engine bay paint. Flat or Semi Matte is the only way to fly IMO...I hate when the rest of an engine bay is overly shiney.

[OnPoint]

this is so bad ass. I remember seeing that ka-t years ago.

[s14unimog]

Nice choice on the engine bay paint. Flat or Semi Matte is the only way to fly IMO...I hate when the rest of an engine bay is overly shiney.

Thanks Cody, my thoughts exactly.

this is so bad ass. I remember seeing that ka-t years ago.

Nice, it cool that a bunch of people payed attention to that build. That was a different time for sure; lol.

[homeslicej2]

I just noticed that from a previous post that you put your wideband O2 in the greddy turbo elbow location. I know AEM recommends placing theirs ~36inches downstream of the turbo bc the heat can damage the sensor.

[ixfxi]

this guy is making a lot of people on zilvia look stupid


my suggestion? take notes and pay attention


nice work

[s14unimog]

I just noticed that from a previous post that you put your wideband O2 in the greddy turbo elbow location. I know AEM recommends placing theirs ~36inches downstream of the turbo bc the heat can damage the sensor.

I run a thermal insulator which pulls the O2 slightly out of the stream. I've heard that it yields an inconsistent reading but I've logged mine in parallel to the dyno operators and seen no difference.

this guy is making a lot of people on zilvia look stupid
my suggestion? take notes and pay attention
nice work

I appreciate that comment.

In regards to progress:

I've spent the last week or so working on the transmission and final assembly details. I'm literately waiting on my exhaust manifold hardware that was missed during ceramic coating. Its a obnoxious detail that I almost wish I skipped over but I suppose it will be worth it when assembled. Fortunately it gave me a minute to finalize all of the brake lines, rebuilding the slave, swapping transmissions, etc... So as of today, if I got the hardware back I could have it completely installed, plumbed and waiting for the wiring details. So I'll have pictures soon. I can't wait to see everything together!

[anarchyperf]

Looking good! Look forward to seeing this all together. What engine management are you going to run?

[NismoTuner21]

Fucking rad work man! So jealous of your tig skills and work area lol. Can't wait to see it put together and running.

[s14unimog]

Looking good! Look forward to seeing this all together. What engine management are you going to run?

Thanks! I'm running a Nistune system and data logging boost, EGT and A/F's through my Zeitronix.

Fucking rad work man! So jealous of your tig skills and work area lol. Can't wait to see it put together and running.

Thanks! You and me both man....

[JohnnyDrfiter22]

Wow Amazing Build!!! Wanna produde more catch cans and sell them?? Also what is used to hold up the piping from the air duct

[s14unimog]

Thanks! There will only be a short length (~1-2') of flexible 3", wire-reinforced, hose connecting the front bumper duct to the inner fender air duct, so it won't require any support. I will also fit an inline filter towards the bumper duct to prevent debris and moisture from getting blow into the engine bay.

I would love to produce the parts but I don't have the time to fabricate this stuff. I love doing it for my car but the enthusiasm falls flat when I've got to do a bunch of them. Not to mention, people wouldn't want to pay for what I would have to ask to make it worth my time.

[jr_ss]

I would love to produce the parts but I don't have the time to fabricate this stuff. I love doing it for my car but the enthusiasm falls flat when I've got to do a bunch of them. Not to mention, people wouldn't want to pay for what I would have to ask to make it worth my time.

Especially on this site... Sorry to say it, but the majority of 240sx owners are cheap asses. Quality is not always in their budget when they purchase goods.

Everything is looking good man. Any updates, such as motor in the bay? I've got to get a build thread going with the VVL project, I just don't have the time to piece everything together to make it post worthy ATM.

[Big Zee]

I love this thread, it's so fun to read, awesome pictures, not hard on the brain and a lot of DIY! one question though, do you still have both S14's ? or did you end up getting rid of the black one ?

I really like your drive-shaft spacer, I hope you don't mind me using that idea for my car :)
keep up the awesome work!

[s14unimog]

Especially on this site... Sorry to say it, but the majority of 240sx owners are cheap asses. Quality is not always in their budget when they purchase goods. Everything is looking good man. Any updates, such as motor in the bay? I've got to get a build thread going with the VVL project, I just don't have the time to piece everything together to make it post worthy ATM.

Unfortunately that seems to be an acceptable trend with s-chassis owners these days. Some how that also parallels that emo theme too. Still no motor in the bay with my exhaust manifold hardware still at the coater. He promises tomorrow so we'll see.

I love this thread, it's so fun to read, awesome pictures, not hard on the brain and a lot of DIY! one question though, do you still have both S14's ? or did you end up getting rid of the black one ? I really like your drive-shaft spacer, I hope you don't mind me using that idea for my car :) keep up the awesome work!

Thanks, I don't have the black s14.5 anymore. I wish I could have but not only is it exhausting to maintain two of these cars, I didn't have the money at the time. When I bought that car, I had to promise the last thousand so I could afford the tow bill from NewYork. Thankfully I'm not cutting it that close anymore.

I built that driveshaft spacer out of necessity, if it helps you too, run with it. Beats buying a new shaft just for 1/2". Its held up great for the last few years with zero deformation so I feel safe to says its a reliable fix. You'll find out to use Gr.10.9 hardware, you'll need to machine one side of the hex to clear the base of the yoke flange. Be mindful of the counterbore features on mine. You would do well not to rely on the hardware for a concentric fit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMG_2271.jpg

Oh ya....

Here is something I forgot I took another picture of. I finished welding up the turbo brace and tapping the motor mount. Check this out; the brace will support the weight of the turbo without flexing. I think that should be sufficient.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/e16b05b6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/fda08299.jpg

I also snapped a quick picture of the coolant reservoir installed. Plus my transmission oil / PS fluid came in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/25261f49.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/6d023b00.jpg

[s14unimog]

Updates

My hardware is FINALLY done! After about 2 weeks of back and forth with the coater, he finally finished the bolts he forgot. It was the most annoying situation. He hooked me up a solid one on the price for my ceramic coated parts but misplaced the baggy of exhaust manifold hardware. Well, it took him about a week to find them, then he relocated his paint booth, so it was down. Then "they got busy" and I dropped down the list. Sh*t, he pulled every excuse, but with enough hounding, I finally got em.

I probably could have dropped the motor and then fished the manifold, turbo, lines, dump, etc down there but with everything so freshly painted and me having zero interest in mounting that stuff with the motor in the bay, I held off. I'm sure A LOT of people on here can feel for that decision.

On with the pictures. Engine assembled...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/51762718.jpg

Last week, while I waited for that hardware, I took the v/c back off and used my Bridgeport at work to surface the letters. I used a 4 insert 2" dia fly-cutter so it wouldn't leaving tooling marks. No more painted letters.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/1132d7e3.jpg

I took another shot of my turbo brace/actuator mount; luckily nothing changed with the motor weight on the mounts and the coolant lines seem to clear it easily; almost as if I meant for that to happen :yum:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/696a0408.jpg

You'll have to forgive the awkward angles. I had the garage door shut and if I open it at night, the door blocks the over head lights so its not much help. The oil cooler should black out my grille area nicely plus my UK lights should brighten the face up a bit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/b12d9f8f.jpg

Getting there... It was about 1am when I stopped, still lots to do but at least its onto the rewarding parts... more to come.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9422f87d.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/54dc2eb9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/abf45e6f.jpg

[jr_ss]

Looks good! Can't wait to start dropping my parts back into my bay... Keep it up dude.

[Edwin562]

Stunning, One of the few guys who detail is key... Im loving this build. Keep up the good work. and hopefully we get to see this beast on the rode.

[nickkaplz]

this build is beautiful

[s14unimog]

Thanks guys!

Well, progress is going a little slow. Mainly because women, work, taxes, holiday's and the house don't seem to care about my schedule. :rant2:

Either way, work is getting done. Currently I'm waiting on my Star-lite fuel and crank ventilation hose to show up. I also realized a slight over sight on my part. Unfortunately I forgot to account for the return coolant line from the turbo to water neck against my BOV recirculation. Fortunately it seems a change of my straight AN fitting to a 45* is an easy fix; so that's coming with the hose.

Aside from that, I got the car back on the ground, drivetrain and exhaust installed and all new fluids everywhere. It dawned on me last night but every single fluid in the car will have been replaced with this build. Appropriately of course but it never really dawned on me as a goal.

I did how ever take a few detailed shots of the inner fenders with the car at stance. Now I've still got to do my rough suspension link adjustments before I get it aligned, but that shouldn't make much of a difference.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/1ab9e004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/dc4d137f.jpg

I've never really noticed this before but damn my 9.5 +20 is close as hell to that coilover spring.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/4f417411.jpg

I also mounted my HID ballasts to their mounts. I used a 3M "Hook-n-Loop" velcro. For those of you who have never explored the vast range of velco; this stuff is serious. Also to insure the adhesive doesn't give up first, I preheated everything with a blow dryer; it's not coming off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/576024f1.jpg

Now these next pictures are a WEAK attampt of using my SLR Pentax. It's a K20D model and its obviously smarter than I am. Not to mention, I really need a tripod for doing over exposures and taking advantage of extreme aperture settings. I'm still learning.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMGP2298.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMGP2312.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/IMGP2300.jpg


OH YA! I almost forgot; check out what the wife got me for Valentine's Day. It's the Sparco Jade suit. I wondered what the wardrobe measuring was about a month or so ago... The Black Stig

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/538c9b12.jpg

[yzrider450f]

siiiiicckkk

[KoukiMonsta]

looking good buddy!!!

what are your plans for wiring (engine harness) ?

[s14unimog]

thanks!

The wiring is the next "stage" I guess but I can't get on it until I finish painting the Altima body panels you see in the back ground. I plan to construct a booth tonight and get the panels prepped for paint tomorrow in the other bay area (shit, I need more propane).

The wiring will be pretty straight forward. The main engine harness is already minimalized pretty well but I hate the accordion type wrap so I'm going to de-loom it again and redo everything with the fabric type heat shrink. As for the fuse box, I'll have to strip it down and see what I don't need anymore. Once the painting is done, I'll drag the car out into the middle, pull the dash and get to it. I should be on that next week.

The cool thing is that the harness will come through the firewall right underneath the IM. You won't even see it.

[Junior x]

coming together so nice glwb

[Pinggg]

looks good!

[blo0d]

whats the spec on your tig? how long have u had it?

[codyace]

Yuengling Light....really?!..."c'mon man!" haha j/k

Things look great!



Especially on this site... Sorry to say it, but the majority of 240sx owners are cheap asses. Quality is not always in their budget when they purchase goods.


HAH. Isn't that damn truth. If people understood what true machine shop costs were they'd think twice.

this guy is making a lot of people on zilvia look stupid

No, you're stupid. :ddog:

[s14unimog]

whats the spec on your tig? how long have u had it?

It's a Miller Syncrowave 250 and is property of the company I work for. Fortunately I have unlimited access to our machine shop but I don't weld enough. I need to practice more.

Yuengling Light....really?!..."c'mon man!" haha j/k

Things look great!

HAH. Isn't that damn truth. If people understood what true machine shop costs were they'd think twice.


hey, an open beer is a good beer :yum:.... well; some times, lol.

My goal with the car, as long as I can keep it in one piece, is to continue to elevate my fabrication level each time I tear it apart. To me its about considering the whole picture and assembling something I can say, "ya, I did that." It's a wonder how some of those trash builds survive as long as they do though. Surely a testament to the original design efforts of Nissan.

[codyace]

I totally agree with ya there, my 'car' is more than a car, and a challenge in a way...that is to create something with OEM reliability, but all hand built or different.

[s14unimog]

^ It's the little things. I bet we would get right along Cody.

[codyace]

^ It's the little things. I bet we would get right along Cody.

:ssex:

LOL

Off topic, but I'm actually really interested to see the 20g results...those things can be had so damn cheap anymore.

[KoukiMonsta]

.

The cool thing is that the harness will come through the firewall right underneath the IM. You won't even see it.

How the heck have I not thought about this..

^ It's the little things. I bet we would get right along Cody.

Feeling a bromance going on here. But yea you guys have sweet fab skills, and like unimog said, every time you tear the car apart to fix/rework you must improve. It is nice to say 'yea, I built that' for me that's where the enjoyment comes from.

[s14unimog]

Feeling a bromance going on here. But yea you guys have sweet fab skills, and like unimog said, every time you tear the car apart to fix/rework you must improve. It is nice to say 'yea, I built that' for me that's where the enjoyment comes from.

:ugh:...no homo.

Cody, if that's your real name (lol), does some solid work. I've seen his screen name over the years on numerous topics and have come to respect his opinion. I don't know the guy but suspect, from what I've seen, we'd get along. Just to clarify though. I like tha vi-jay-jay :kiss:


...those things can be had so damn cheap anymore.

I'm assuming you meant to say, "they can be had so cheaply these days" ?

I think its a great turbo, it just sorta lacks in flow efficiency with lower P/R's. Call me crazy but if I don't get the response I'm after with the shorter pipes and raised C/R I'm shipping it to Billet Turbochargers in Australia and having them convert the CHRA to a BB type. I bet THAT, on top of my setup, would be stupid. (in a good way of course)

[KoukiMonsta]

Yea he really is Cody haha. And will agree that he knows what's up. Pm'd him with all sorts of sr building questions earlier this year.

I think the best part is both of you guys know how to use proper grammar! It's amazing being able to read and easily understand posts..except for that last thing Cody said..lol

Fill that propane, finish that Altima, and get back to the 14! Keep it up man.

EDIT: I need 5 valve valve spring seat washers, lost them in the process of machine shop and transporting the head I guess. Either a) do either of u guys have them laying around? Due to possible upgrade? Or extra parts figured,I'd ask. or b) ideas where I can acquire them? Similiar part as USDM sr motor? Oh yea it is a Redtop..

[bc.]

<3 I hope you actually drive this thing like it is supposed to be driven. XD

[s14unimog]

<3 I hope you actually drive this thing like it is supposed to be driven. XD

That will not be an issue.

Lanier Drift 09-17-10 - YouTube (http://youtu.be/gVtrP-82KvQ)

[codyace]

Cody, if that's your real name (lol), does some solid work. I've seen his screen name over the years on numerous topics and have come to respect his opinion. I don't know the guy but suspect, from what I've seen, we'd get along. Just to clarify though. I like tha vi-jay-jay :kiss:

It's Cody. Cody Ace. I'm not creative for a funny name. Also known as 'AceAltima' on the Altima forums :D (I turbocharged my Altima in 2002/2003...don't ask me why, but it was fun, and yes I'd want another)


I'm assuming you meant to say, "they can be had so cheaply these days" ?

I think its a great turbo, it just sorta lacks in flow efficiency with lower P/R's. Call me crazy but if I don't get the response I'm after with the shorter pipes and raised C/R I'm shipping it to Billet Turbochargers in Australia and having them convert the CHRA to a BB type. I bet THAT, on top of my setup, would be stupid. (in a good way of course)

That is what I mean. It's just crazy the support they have gotten of late. I can remember when a 20g was some 'off the wall' rare stuff...so to me it's neat to see it become affordable/common


I think the best part is both of you guys know how to use proper grammar! It's amazing being able to read and easily understand posts..except for that last thing Cody said..lol

Sometimes the craft beer gets in the way :D I don't want to be labled a alcoholic, but I do love a good beer :D


EDIT: I need 5 valve valve spring seat washers, lost them in the process of machine shop and transporting the head I guess. Either a) do either of u guys have them laying around? Due to possible upgrade? Or extra parts figured,I'd ask. or b) ideas where I can acquire them? Similiar part as USDM sr motor? Oh yea it is a Redtop..

Same as a FWD SE-R. I'll check tomorrow for ya.

<3 I hope you actually drive this thing like it is supposed to be driven. XD

You mean parked sideways in the Burger King parking lot right?

[s14unimog]

Okay... I'm starting to feel a bit like a zombie now :eek3:. I literately take too much on at once. I realize its been a minute since my last update but I have to admit, I've been busting my ass on a few things lately. Let me start with saying; I will NEVER buy another car (to flip) that requires as much work as that damn '98 Altima. What's worse is that even though I enjoy the profit, I don't actually need to do this anymore. For some reason however, I still feel like I've got to buy up all these damned vehicles and give them new life... I also promised my step mother that I would change the timing belt on her 1990 Miata; which lead me to change the drive belts, water pump, tensioners, spark plugs, VC gasket, air filter, engine & trans oil and shift boot; lol.

The cool thing about it though, is that my step mom is tickled pink, I finally got a chance to shoot a 2 stage and I made about $1000 off that POS Altima. Although it doesn't actually relate to my S14 build, I still want to share... painting a front end, in 4 easy steps; lol.

Purchase and sand OEM aftermarket replacement panels:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/6f60abe8.jpg

Construct paint booth around said panels:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/69e6fd45.jpg

Buy paint:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/4ef9e087.jpg

Shoot paint:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/2faed557.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/d2bd5c79.jpg

I learned a few things from painting the 240's bay that I tried out here, one being more plastic; I didn't paint the floor this time! The second is the issue that paint that is airborne and confined to an enclosed environment doesn't readily "settle". So what do ya do? Well I found that if I wire tie a bunch of HVAC filter material around my shop-vac nozzle I can leave it running under my parts while I spray. It's not the best thing in the world but it almost matches the air you bring into the booth, from the gun, and helps clear out the air in under a few minutes. It's what I'll do on other projects until I can come up with something better.

Lookin good man... I dig the "protective" cap, should've just thrown a paint suit in with all your materials.

You'll be happy to know I also bought a protective suit this time; lol.

ANYWAYS, back to the car.

As I left it last time, the car was almost back together. I ran into a few issues with my water pump (it developed a leak) so I had to get a new replacement (thanks Phase2!) and my Star-lite hose order, for the catch tank and fuel lines, is on a 4 week back order. For now, I just picked up some FI hose from the local parts store just in case I get a chance to fire it up before hand.

If you haven't noticed already, I just left the harness laying beside the car on the floor. I decided I won't touch it until I was on to the wiring; so that's where we are.

Now any sane individual would just do what's needed to get it running. Relocate the box, stuff connectors and plugs behind the dash and call it a day. Well I can't. Don't ask me why, but I just can't have a mess behind closed doors. So what now? Pull the interior why of course! Then, systematically de-pin all circuits not in use.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/03808c72.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/2baf1b76.jpg

I've seen a lot of people, over the years, approach this from my different sides. Some opt for the painless kits, some buy pre-made harnesses, and others do a mixture of existing and new fuse/relay boards. To me, replacing Nissan's assemblies is as if I spit on years of R&D. It's all great work and reliable assemblies, there is just stuff I don't need. So I'm removing it.

Here is the forward chassis harness removed from the car, and un altered.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/c756acb3.jpg

...and the pile that grew from it

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/3b91dcfc.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/08da4121.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/cd61bd54.jpg

And how I've been spending recent nights... I sit on the towel in the middle; can ya tell?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/475d0130.jpg

So far all I've completed is the interior harness as well as minimalized the existing forward chassis harness. I intend to lengthen what is need for the front (headlights, blinkers, fan, etc..) and build a dielectric mount for the factory fuse and relay trays found in the forward fuse box. I will also de-loom, inspect and re-loom my engine harness with some sort of fabric braided heatshrink; similar to what Chase Bay's is using.

Here is how the interior looks as of now; much better right?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/5c119445.jpg

I also took a minute and reassembled the remaining of the front end, plumbed up my bumper duct and adjusted the suspension back out to its former stance. Sorry, the car is a little dusty and considering its not running I'd have no chance getting it back in the garage if I roll it out for a wash. Aren't German lights sexy as hell?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/367c670c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/8add40a3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9df81dc7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/bfe3d47f.jpg

[Conrad 2NR]

Suhweeeeeeeet!

[jr_ss]

Glad to see it coming together, it's also good to hear you picked up a suit this time :bigok:...

I've got a question for you, I had planned on putting my oil cooler in the same location as yours, however I've noticed that the hood latch area would come into contact with it. I'm assuming that's why you removed yours? What are you planning on doing with relocating it?

[s14unimog]

Glad to see it coming together, it's also good to hear you picked up a suit this time :bigok:...

I've got a question for you, I had planned on putting my oil cooler in the same location as yours, however I've noticed that the hood latch area would come into contact with it. I'm assuming that's why you removed yours? What are you planning on doing with relocating it?

Kind of had to. Its one thing to get a little paint on your arms; clear coat however, no thanks.

Ya, found that out when I tried to close the hood :doh:. I assumed it would't hit but I underestimated how much room there really is. I guess I'll just machine a relief in my deflector/mount so it clears the hood and add some brackets to bring it back and down a tad. I had cut the D-ring off my hood back when I installed the aero catch latches, but the safety catch seems to still hit it. I'll cut that off the hood next but it still won't be enough to leave it alone. I need to order my fittings too, so they don't surprise me next but I told myself that I wouldn't mess with the oil cooler until the car is running well and broken in. For now I'll just take it off.

[Frank_Jaeger]

Finally, an epic build thread that almost made it to the end.

I came.

[s14unimog]

^lol, thanks; it's not done yet... But it will be, you can bet on that.

Nothing too terribly exciting to report; I'm still waiting on parts to trickle in. I did however get my new fuse panel in. I looked at keeping the guts of the stock fuse block but it just won't be as clean as I want. So I ordered this...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/97394c4f.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/823b3422.jpg

This stuff is all made by Blue Seas. I went with them for two reasons. Since it's "marine grade" all of the hardware is stainless instead of the typical zinc plated junk and it's one of the few universal blocks that I've found with fusible circuits for higher amp power distribution. Not to mention, a built in negative bus and the parts look well made; very nice molds with good surface finishing. I plan to relocate my serial to USB converter and Zetronix unit from where there are now and remake the panel to fit the fuse board and power key. I'll mount the 100amp inline in the truck next to the battery. It's gonna look so clean!

[badbob2121]

Very impressive..

Great work

[s14unimog]

Not a lot got done this weekend, I'm going to be honest. Aside from wedding showers and the house needing a pressure washing, I just haven't had the time or energy. Not to mention, trying to source 12AWG ring terminals for 5/16" and 3/8" studs is virtually impossible around here; gotta order that shit too...

I did however get up early on Saturday and knock this mounting panel out. It's made from 0.250" Starboard. This stuff machines great, has a textured surface finish and is a dielectric; so it's a safer choice than the aluminum one I before. The holes are undersized for blunt tip self-tapping screws and I'm using hardware that just long enough for the panel thickness. I plan to mount the DIF fan controller, Zetronixs and USB converter on the back side. Speaking of which, I'm going to try and find something a little better than that awkward thing.

I started with a rough shear cut scrap that was approximately the size. Below that is a similar piece of 0.25" aluminum flatbar set up on 1.625" parallels.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/4da42c29.jpg

After the feature and profile operations. This is just a simple 3-axis Bridgeport with a DRO.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/3e84c76c.jpg

Booo ya!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/e549e416.jpg

Does that look awesome or what?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/6dfd153e.jpg

[s14unimog]

This project that never seems to end...

Despite my updates, I promise I've been working on it. This whole electrical endeavor has graduated into a massive undertaking all on its own. Some how in the beginning I thought this would go quick but despite my best efforts; slow it goes. Here is what I've got done since the electrical panel...

Finally all of my loom, heat shrink and terminal rings showed up... The loom is from wirecare.com and its called "Flexo Tight Weave Flame Retardant". It's really cool stuff but it acts like a Chinese finger trap if you're not careful. Not to mention, 6 hours of looming will beat your hands up. I also ordered all of my heat shrink there as well. I found out about these guys from the "s14 fuseblock relocation" thread a while back and I think I'll keep using them. Although I've seen better adhesive lined heat shrink in the past; they are prompt on orders and accurate on all the random incremental lengths I requested. All said and done, I spent about $113 and bought WAY more than I should have; lol. Better to have too much than too little I suppose.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/2cc93d9c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/37a6d544.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/54e2cd38.jpg

The ring terminals I bought were sourced through Fastenal. I bought from them for two reason. I could get both 0.313" and 0.375" rings and they were Panduit heavy gauge impact crimp types that are marine Navy rated; like my 240 needs that, lol. Luckily a buddy had a crimper that I could borrow.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/491f78d5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/d88d21ec.jpg


So with that in hand I was finally able to finish all of the heavy gauge power transmission lines. Here are the jumpers between the fuse board -- key, key -- starter & alternator -- starter. The ends aren't crimped on in this picture, so I used the painters tape to hold them on while I verified lengths and clocking. Sorry for the 2am, tired, shaky hand picture; lol.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/0e939386.jpg

Mounted my 100amp inline in the trunk...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/a2527dfe.jpg


And just a little teaser on how that loom looks...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/2da4708a.jpg

[ixfxi]

progress is coming along nicely

fyi, the braided sleeving is nice but kinda silly for main harness use. its good stuff for circuits that never need servicing. should you ever need to run new circuits or replace any wires, theres practically no chance of running anything in that sleeving. at least you did the right thing by using the FR type - the standard type will catch fire and STAY lit.

personally, i prefer spending the coin on higher quality wire & connectors as opposed to making it look fancy.. but thats just being a stickler on things.

another gripe about using that sleeving especially in the engine bay is that it does not protect the wires from the elements & heat... its just pretty. but when it gets gummed up with dirt and oil, its pretty ratty looking.

[240KAR]

Damn man!! I long for this type of situation where I can do work like this!! Much respect sir! Can't wait to see it together!

[s14unimog]

I've started to notice some of the draw backs, with the material in hand now, but to answer your first commen, I wrapped the bulk of the engine harness with the typical plastic spit covering, wrapped with electrical tape, and ran the leads loomed in the braided wrap from there.This will still give me access to the individual leads without tearing EVERYTHING apart; I'll likely never use the larger braided loom I bought. I am also using it to cover the individual ground leads and lower transmission harness; most of that doesn't have any splices in it or its single strand. I've made sure to take any spliced protection to a level that's safe considering the covering is essentially good for looks alone.

I would love to totally redo it with Deutsch connectors and new wire but I decided to add redundant protections and make it look pretty in hopes of catching this drift season.

Damn man!! I long for this type of situation where I can do work like this!! Much respect sir! Can't wait to see it together!

Appreciate it man! I've waited a while to undertake this much...

On a side note, I picked up some new slotted Brembo rotors from a Mr.Rocket on here (thanks again!) and took some pictures of my bumper duct; now plumbed up. Working on this was a nice break from all that wiring. I'll be back at it tomorrow night and hopefully will get that turn key...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/d30af987.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9d96aedf.jpg

[s14unimog]

Slow as she goes... Last night wasn't too productive but I got a couple things done. For one, I mounted my center console base plate. This will act as the mounting board for all of my other components (Zetronix unit, turbo timer, boost solenoid, serial-USB converter and fan relay). I'm pretty stoked about getting this sorted as it allows me to finalize my EDFC, EGT, O2, gauges wiring, vacuum sources, etc....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/cb096f2e.jpg

I also finished cleaning up my engine harness, which is actually loomed and installed in the car already, but I've some how forgotten to photograph.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/67cd2faf.jpg

I did however remember to take pictures of the coil pack looming; here's a before and after. Looks nice on the motor. I'll post those later this evening or tomorrow. Excuse the dusty hood, the car is dying for a wash.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/653e3047.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/d9d689ac.jpg

[drunkmunky]

Great job on the wiring. Doing it proper takes for ever and it is a little appreciated item.

[Buddy]

Ive just finished up the whole back end of mine and de rusted it front to back. All bar the bay. If / When my SR packs up in the Kouki I shall be coming back to read this up again. Love the attention to details and all the little extras. :)

Keep it up man.

[ixfxi]

this guy is making a lot of people on zilvia look stupid
my suggestion? take notes and pay attention
nice work

a lot of people say i am negative

and you are all very right, i am a very, very negative person.

so i would like to quote the above post as a sample of my kind and gentle side


with that said, i was taking a leak thinking about this thread. i would like to give a thumbs up (with my other hand, the one not holding my penis) to the s14unimog. for a guy doing what appears to be almost all of the work single-handedly, he's doing a fantastic job.. for fucks sake, even the paint is turning out real nice WITH that shitty shop-vac make-shift spray booth. and whats even more impressive is that he appears to have a machinists mentality or background, whichever... which basically means that machinists are rarely artistic because he thinks with numbers too much.

either way, i like this thread and would like to give it my approval. two thumbs up and an erection, nice job.

[jr_ss]

either way, i like this thread and would like to give it my approval. two thumbs up and an erection, nice job.

So, you either way you made a mess, because you are no longer aiming with one hand and it's damn near impossible to piss into a toilet with an erection...

But on a serious note, I do agree, he's doing some legit work..

[s14unimog]

Great job on the wiring. Doing it proper takes for ever and it is a little appreciated item.

man, don't I know it; lol.

Ive just finished up the whole back end of mine and de rusted it front to back. All bar the bay. If / When my SR packs up in the Kouki I shall be coming back to read this up again. Love the attention to details and all the little extras. :)
Keep it up man.

Thanks bud, good luck with it.

a lot of people say i am negative and you are all very right, i am a very, very negative person. so i would like to quote the above post as a sample of my kind and gentle side
with that said, i was taking a leak thinking about this thread. i would like to give a thumbs up (with my other hand, the one not holding my penis) to the s14unimog. for a guy doing what appears to be almost all of the work single-handedly, he's doing a fantastic job.. for fucks sake, even the paint is turning out real nice WITH that shitty shop-vac make-shift spray booth. and whats even more impressive is that he appears to have a machinists mentality or background, whichever... which basically means that machinists are rarely artistic because he thinks with numbers too much.
either way, i like this thread and would like to give it my approval. two thumbs up and an erection, nice job.

Right on man; I appreciate the props. I hope I can prove to people that you don't have to have a ton of money or resources (although it helps), you just have to give a fuck and commit to not half-assing it.

So, you either way you made a mess, because you are no longer aiming with one hand and it's damn near impossible to piss into a toilet with an erection... But on a serious note, I do agree, he's doing some legit work..

Thanks bud, I hope yours is coming along well.


Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been in a mad dash to get everything done and sort the last details before time comes to turn key. As you guys saw, I went deep into the wiring, systematically de-pinning and eliminating ALL circuits that no longer served a purpose. A lot of people have asked me why; if its just a drift car then what gives. That's where I guess I'm different. I consider a drift car just like any other purpose built machine. Do it right and you won't spend your days fighting problems or areas that didn't receive enough attention. I've also educated myself on the inner workings of my entire engine and chassis harness. If there is a problem, I know just where to look.

Now for the bad news.

I had a lot of great pictures and the original start up video on my iPhone. Well unfortunately for me, I left my virgin condition phone on the hood of my Jeep, then forgot about it and drove about 2 miles before it slid off. The case didn't help... So I killed it in epic fashion.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Parts%20FS/a789c935.jpg

Fortunately for me, I use my wife's Macbook to load music and iTunes is a god send. I'd like to take a moment and thank who ever the genius over at Apple was that decided to instruct iTunes to save your contacts, personal settings, photo's etc... Essentially $700 later, I'm back like it never happened. Unfortunately however I hadn't downloaded anything lately so I lost those more recent shots and video.

However! Not before I uploaded the video to FB (don't hate). So, if you really want to see it and have the patients to use that website. Here is the link to that. Otherwise you can check out the video I shot the other night.

FB link - first start (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=732391255522)

First night out - no boosting (http://youtu.be/9Y-J7lrj8TA)

To close out the wiring project, I tried to snap a couple pictures from under the dash; I'm not taking it back off just for pictures, lol. Basically what I did was split the forward chassis harness so that only the necessary connections for the lighting, brake light and fan ran over the drivers fender (when I say over, I mean to say I removed the driver fender and secured it to the top of the uni-body rail) and then ran all the power connections for the kick panel, head lights, brights, etc... to my Blue Seas power block. Here are a couple shots of that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/697f9f3b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/217c939f.jpg


Once I got everything wired up, there was a quiet moment before I put power to the block. Luckily when I turned the battery key to the "ON" position the car didn't burn to the ground; lol, I knew it wouldn't. Then I moved to turn the ignition. Since I had the dash off while testing all of this, I sorta lost reference for where the wiper switch was and had a bit of a scare when I turned the key and the wipers were on full speed. For a second the thought crossed my mind, "what the fuck did I do that could have caused that!" Luckily they were just at the "on" position; whew...

After that I went on to try starting the car. She wouldn't fire without some throttle and sounded like a subaru when it was running; surely I was down a cylinder and it wasn't the timing. Or was it any one of the MANY connectors I de-pinned so I could loom the harness :eek3:??? fortunately it was just the #3 injector not "clicked" into position. After that the car fired right up. All systems go from fuel pressure, oil pressure, head lights, brake lights, blinkers, EDFC, everything. I can't believe it, after all that, I just forgot to plug something in all the way; I'll take that.

Since that night, I've just been buttoning up the little details. bled out the new steering rack with my Chase Bays reservoir and line kit; which is working flawlessly. I roughed in my alignment and I'm accruing miles for break in. I plan to hit about 500 before she see's boost so I'll be setting a dyno date within the next week. I've already set up an appointment for corner weighting and alignment with a cool shop that builds Porsche cup cars. Its fun to be around a group of guys who have no idea what drifting is about yet they blast around road courses in 100k sports cars; cracks me up to see them crawl all over my build. Anyways, more video's to come but I think we're pretty much done here. Can't wait for my first event!!! :boink:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/3e1d07a1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/d360f920.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/c83055d3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/c8142440.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/4302e5b7.jpg

Look for the bumper duct next to the fog light opening...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9173226d.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/0a8a63d7.jpg

[ManoNegra]

Congratulations, car looks good.

[Highway Riding]

Clean outcome for sure. Feelin the oem look..

[OutlawLui]

Damn that's a inspiring project

[Pinggg]

Glad to see her up and running! Post up dyno sheets when you dyno her!

[yomisiu]

looks great, nice build

[s14unimog]

Hey thanks guys! I will most definitely be posting the dyno results and video just as soon as I get her up there. Should be within the next couple weeks.

[ixfxi]

Congratulations, car looks good.

what? car looks fucking GREAT. attention to detail with this guy's car is insane. he didnt go cash-crazy on parts, but regardless.. its the work that impresses me. well everything but that bullshit hid kit, but hey its your car.

funny to see your car in the same stages that my car is in, and now your car currently runs. i can only wonder and hope that i'll have time to finish my project(s) up... oh well.

congrats on it starting with little headache.

[future]

I spent hours and hours reading through all the threads posted in the first post of this thread and reading thriugh this thread. Thought i earned a post for reading all that. And i didn't even have to just skip through till i saw pictures. You kept in entertaing. Good shit!

[s14unimog]

what? car looks fucking GREAT. attention to detail with this guy's car is insane. he didnt go cash-crazy on parts, but regardless.. its the work that impresses me. well everything but that bullshit hid kit, but hey its your car. funny to see your car in the same stages that my car is in, and now your car currently runs. i can only wonder and hope that i'll have time to finish my project(s) up... oh well.congrats on it starting with little headache.

Hey hey hey, I know they're H4 conversions but they look a hell of a lot better than the incandescents; plus they've got cut-offs and I aim them low. That's got to count for something right; lol? Thanks for the props, and you said it, I'm so relieved I didn't get that many gremlins. Good luck with yours; got a link?

I spent hours and hours reading through all the threads posted in the first post of this thread and reading thriugh this thread. Thought i earned a post for reading all that. And i didn't even have to just skip through till i saw pictures. You kept in entertaing. Good shit!

Hey. I tell it like it is.

Not much to tell as of lately though. As of today, I just capped about 300miles and everything looks well. There were a couple of hick-ups I had to sort last week though; one of which being the clutch hard line. It was rattling against the firewall with the absence of the OEM separators; since they were dry-rotten and falling apart. A buddy of mine showed me a pretty clean way to bind them together with zip-ties and that worked like a champ. I know it sounds hooky, but I promise, it works well and looks good. I also got a coolant leak from the smaller ~1/2 line that leaves the back of the thermostat housing, but that turned out to be those constant tension clamps. I figure its a mixture of their tension slacking out and the age/elasticity of the hose. Sorted that with a pair of worm clamps. Other than that, I've just been driving it; racking up miles.

To note something about my improvements, specifically the suspension, its a lot more tolerable than I thought it might be. I had mixed feelings about the solid sub-frame and diff mounting, but its barely, if almost unnoticeable, louder than before. I get the occasional creak from the resistance in the poly mounts but all in all it's pretty quiet. Surely its got to do with me keeping my interior, but shit I'll take that. Maybe the rubber isolators, in this version of the SPL subframe mounts, makes that big of a difference.

...a picture b/c we're talking about it. It's raised as high as the mounts will allow.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/ae0c7649.jpg

In regards to performance or handling improvements, I can say one thing is for sure. Before all of this it was very difficult to get into the garage "just right". That's to say, without dragging the down pipe. After the poly mounts and the solid sub-frame mounting, I three wheel higher and sooner than ever. So that's rockin! The tell all will surely be after I can put the power down though.

Btw, here's a consolidated look of all the wiring I removed from the car. Even after all this, you've still got power windows, mirrors, door locks and a dome light (you can't have my dome light!). I'd say 8lbs max; lol. I wonder what the scrap yard will give me?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/26f09fd7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/aa1ac6f3.jpg

On another note, my new laptop showed up so I spent some time this evening checking my consult hook up with Nistune. This was the first time I've tested this since the wiring work and the first time I've attempted using it with Windows 7. Happy to report; no issues. Not to mention, no issues with the ECU; no fault codes up either. I haven't delved too far into this latest software update but I did notice the addition of a "knock map copy"; this will save me and the tuner some time on the dyno. I've got to grow a set and tune my own shit one of these days.... I'll post up a couple screen shot from Nistune later; I'm tired and going to bed.:werd:

[Om1kron]

I saved that box of wiring for spare pins and shit throughout my build lol. Came in handy, then Jeff decides he wants to wire cars for a living and gets tons of the milspec shit. Wish he would've went into business earlier =( I like your airbag panel, looks really clean, I'd highly recommend some kind of locking nuts for the back of it however, the car will eventually vibrate those loose and cause you an unnecessary headache.

[Bwayan]

Wow i must say... all the small details you put into the car is priceless! car looks fucking fantastic!

[s14unimog]

I saved that box of wiring for spare pins and shit throughout my build lol. Came in handy, then Jeff decides he wants to wire cars for a living and gets tons of the milspec shit. Wish he would've went into business earlier =( I like your airbag panel, looks really clean, I'd highly recommend some kind of locking nuts for the back of it however, the car will eventually vibrate those loose and cause you an unnecessary headache.

Which one; the (4) connecting the panel to the dash bar? I doubt it, they're biting into the plastic pretty nicely. all of the others on the fuse panel are serrated on the bottom, so they should stay still as well. Either way, thanks for the heads up, only time will tell.

Wow i must say... all the small details you put into the car is priceless! car looks fucking fantastic!

Thanks! Although each one just looked like the next thing in line to work on; lol.

[Om1kron]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/d9d689ac.jpg

Also if you ever have the car dyno'd or tuned they're going to chop one of these back open to get to the service wire fyi.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/697f9f3b.jpg
These two guys on the left on your on/off switch. Just saying they could potentially vibrate loose over time and cause some funky problems.

[conrad_s13.5]

....shit looks great mang!

[s14unimog]

^'preciate it!



Also if you ever have the car dyno'd or tuned they're going to chop one of these back open to get to the service wire fyi. These two guys on the left on your on/off switch. Just saying they could potentially vibrate loose over time and cause some funky problems.


Na, they won't have to. I left the service wire loop accessible; it must just be folded under in that picture. This motor will most definitely see its first flow of boost on the dyno. Oh okay, I see where you're saying now. Those actually have lock-washers under each...

[Om1kron]

oh okay then, all bases covered. haha I was all butthurt when they cut open my masterpiece, I fixed it, turns out I didn't use adhesive heat shrink after some time. had to cut it open again. lolz

[ixfxi]

Hey hey hey, I know they're H4 conversions but they look a hell of a lot better than the incandescents; plus they've got cut-offs and I aim them low. That's got to count for something right; lol? Thanks for the props, and you said it, I'm so relieved I didn't get that many gremlins. Good luck with yours; got a link?

no, it counts for shit. there's no exception to the rule, hid kits are a waste of time and just plain stupid. there is a good reason why they are outlawed in practically any civilized country with lighting standards. a pair of good quality halogen bulbs is what that headlight assembly is designed for, and it is optimal. spend some time analyzing beam patterns and you'll understand

my build? i am past the boner stage, i've lost interest for the time being. acquiring new AC components, AN plumbing, and numerous parts that have been on order from nissan japan for (several) years has made me lose interest. anyway.

car looks good, keep up the good work

[s14unimog]

Dyno date scheduled! I'm looking to be tuned and back boosting by Thursday of next week. Apparently it was the soonest window where I could get a morning run. As for the current state of the car, its at 650miles with no issues outside a broken clutch linkage. Although it happened when I was 50 some odd miles from the house, only one side actually broke and I was able to get enough TOB travel to shift without any issue. Needless to say, I did a bunch of high RPM first to fourth shifts and limped it back home. No worries though, 2 days later I had another one from Nissan (~$11) so that's water under the bridge. Surely it just fatigued from all the clutch kicks and the over-rated pressure plate.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/67b9fa32.jpg

As promised, I also took a minute to get a screen shot of the Nistune connected with the car running. Pretty cool stuff.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/44d7369b.jpg

Stay tuned for power numbers!!!

[KoukiMonsta]

HECK YES!

cant wait to see the dyno info

[homeslicej2]

Where are you dynoing it at?

[s14unimog]

Balanced Performance

[jr_ss]

Thursday right?

[s14unimog]

yup. 9am

It's make or break now...

[homeslicej2]

Awesome. I had Scotty at Mainstream tune mine with NIStune. So was just wondering. Hope you make goood #'s and looking forward to the dyno graph!

[codyace]

ujF6COoUqBg

[s14unimog]

Awesome. I had Scotty at Mainstream tune mine with NIStune. So was just wondering. Hope you make goood #'s and looking forward to the dyno graph!

Right on; I've heard they do good work and are an authorized dealer of Nistune. I've been going to Ed over at balanced since I boosted my KA back in 05; the guy does contract EMS work for a number of race teams so I've just come to trust his work over the years. So I just keep going back.

video above

lol Cody, good shit. The heat is on baby!!

[jr_ss]

Cody, lol, wtf man? That video is whack...

Good luck tomorrow, looking forward to seeing some numbers.

[codyace]

Man, you guys have some bad music taste ;) I happen to play that daily! LOOOL


In for the good news for tomorrow!

[babowc]

Do you live near/around Athens?
I think I saw your car on SR316 the other day, coming down from UGA...

[homeslicej2]

Right on; I've heard they do good work and are an authorized dealer of Nistune. I've been going to Ed over at balanced since I boosted my KA back in 05; the guy does contract EMS work for a number of race teams so I've just come to trust his work over the years. So I just keep going back.



Yeah, having a tuner you can trust is always nice. I've heard only a little about Ed, but it's all been good. Scotty is the most convenient for me and I know he's been tuning cars for many yrs with great results. Only other NIStune authorized dealer/tuner was Derek at Lethal, but that's a really long drive for me. Looking forward to the numbers & graph.

[jr_ss]

Updates dood!

[garagelu]

Right on; I've heard they do good work and are an authorized dealer of Nistune. I've been going to Ed over at balanced since I boosted my KA back in 05; the guy does contract EMS work for a number of race teams so I've just come to trust his work over the years. So I just keep going back.



lol Cody, good shit. The heat is on baby!!

I'm not sure when you talked to Balanced last but is Ed still tuning there? Last time I was there tuning, Ed told be he wouldn't be tuning at Balanced anymore because he is on the road so much with race teams. He said he still works with Balanced but just not a daily basis.

[s14unimog]

^ right. That´s the story I hear too. I went back and forth with Ed when I was trying to schedule a date but it didn´t work with his travel schedule. Chris, his apprentice, actually tuned it this time. He seems like a cool guy and seems to know what he´s doing; all went well.

The car ran great for the tuning and runs like a scalded ape down the road but I´m still not satisfied. See, I´m running a 1 bar actuator with no boost controller and its not popping like it should. The car made 383whp @ 16psi and 300wtq. On the last pull, I got down and stared at the actuator, it´s creeping open and killing my mid range potential. Out on the road, you´d swear that wasn´t the case but I know it could be better. The plan now is to source a 10psi actuator and get another EBC. Either the case, its a beast and I´m back!!!

gioZMOZtvms

[codyace]

turbos hate dynos

there i said it

its official ;)


scaleded ape...we say raped ape up north :D Still badass INC.

[s14unimog]

ya... There is some disconnect. The car drives nothing like it looks on the graph.

[whitepony22]

Car looks amazing. I'm glad to see you finished it. It has often been motivation for me to get back to work on mine.

[Pinggg]

Sounds good! Suck to hear about what happen on the dyno but at least it drives like it should on the road!

[ixfxi]

bump for a great thread, bring this shit back with some updates

[jr_ss]

bump for a great thread, bring this shit back with some updates


I agree... I want some feedback 3months later.

If you haven't sourced an EBC I have a Blitz SBC ID I don't think I'm going to use. LMK.

[s14unimog]

bump for a great thread, bring this shit back with some updates

I agree... I want some feedback 3months later. If you haven't sourced an EBC I have a Blitz SBC ID I don't think I'm going to use. LMK.


What's happened since I left off... Well for one, she still runs and runs strong. I have been using the car often and have been through roughly 4 sets of rear tires since my last dyno. I will admit that this summer and my latest project have kept me a bit distracted from modifying the 240 lately. And to be honest, I needed to get away from working on it for a bit and just enjoy the damn thing.

Here is the quick and dirty on my latest project. Click HERE (http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?51026-First-Seadoo-always-loved-this-model) if you want to see the entire build. I'll admit it, I love to build something.

Bought this 1997 Seadoo XP for a steal with a blown motor, no trailer and left for dead. I figure, I always buy a sport bike every year to rebuild so I wanted to try something that both the wife and I could enjoy. She likes a ride (giggity) but I can't let her take a crotch rocket down the street.

Before...

781cc w/ shattered forward piston
no trailer
faded gelcoat and tired vinyls
generally nasty as hell


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Seadoo%20XP/614be3a7.jpg


Now...

796cc w/ .75mm overbore
Galvanized Wesco trailer w/ new carpet & runners
polished hull - no stickers
new track mats, new seat cover, generally clean as whistle


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Seadoo%20XP/ff5ac53f.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Seadoo%20XP/ccd47b81.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Seadoo%20XP/4833c225.jpg

Now with that puppy broken in, it's very hard to do much more than crash the lake every weekend. I've probably put about 40-50 hours on it since the rebuild and it runs like a CHAMP! It'll indicate 60-65 on the speedo but I suspect on GPS that's just south of 60mph. It will scream tho, believe me. I plan to sell it at the beginning of the season next year.

Okay, back to the car. What's been done as of lately

For one. I had a little accident with my hood. If you'll recall, I had ground the stops off of my hinges to allow it to go completely vertical. I told myself that I will design a prop or gas shock mount but never got around to it. Welp... I was sitting at a show with the hood up on the standard prop when the wind picked up. I was standing near the car, and quickly noticed the hood threatening to come un-hooked from the prop. So just as I started over to arrest the hood, the prop un-hooked, dropping the prop rod and hood alike. I reached out under the hood and would have caught it, if it had continued to fall. Well it didn't. The wind took it and blew it back across my windshield; breaking both corners of the hood. FUCK!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/8efa7704.jpg

So... I set out to solve the hood prop situation. Not to mention, I needed to get to this so that I could situate my oil cooler mount / cooling panel which required me to ditch the factory prop. Plus, who likes that prop? I don't.

Since I put gas shocks on my Jeep's hood, I stole its prop and came up with this...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/30D53EDB-0AB5-4160-BD56-3D9365A3C714-1145-000001B8B2130F15.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/A3698EAE-0488-4E37-AD90-B829677BA466-1145-000001BA29EA654D.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/C134FA03-5E79-46B5-AB79-665B9058FCE4-846-000001564DCC907C.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/DAC53C53-9BA5-4B67-8F99-D4F8669E4B47-846-0000015655C84288.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9C91910D-F7E6-4D6D-86C0-4C800636DD91-846-000001565F8C7A97.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/5D18A336-B002-4A18-A836-4B84692F7B15-846-0000015666A3CCA7.jpg

THAT is what Nissan should have done!

With that done and out of the way, I have turned my attention back to the damage. I had a very informative conversation with Mike from Kognition and he directed me towards some materials to repair the damage. I plan to give that a go here in the next few weeks. I can't say it enough how much I appreciate the time he took to discuss the damage and help me out. If they ever plan to mfg. a Zenki hood, I will buy one just b/c of that. You hear me Mike? :naughty:


Uh.... what else?

Here is a recent picture of the car
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/D6B1CFF7-C02B-47BB-BBD2-EEEA36A35A1E-846-000001567DFBF3B1.jpg

Oh, I made another garage entry video. Considering it got so much attention last time, I thought it was only appropriate to make something a bit more up to date to my modifications. That solid mounted subframe sure does make a huge difference on clearance. Check it out.

rKxlKA1jf90

Other than that, you guys are up to date. I have plans to track the car on Monday at Roebling Road in Savannah, so I am very excited about that. I plan to do a lot of filming. So once I get a chance to sort through that, I'll post up some video.

[KoukiMonsta]

Hell yea! Glad to hear she is going strong.

Always loved your re-build and great infoyou provided me with!

[ixfxi]

verticle hoods................................ only in georgia. :-)

[CamryOnBronze]

Awesome build, man. Makes me want to build my bottom end. I better get out of here! lol.

[jr_ss]

Awesome build, man. Makes me want to build my bottom end. I better get out of here! lol.

You know damn well that building your motor has crossed your mind, at least a few times, act like it hasn't, ha!

[codyace]

the fact you ripped the tires made it all worth it. the tool was a nice choice too ;)

[s14unimog]

Hell yea! Glad to hear she is going strong.
Always loved your re-build and great infoyou provided me with!

No problem buddy, I'm glad I could help.

verticle hoods................................ only in georgia. :-)

Ah, come on... It's useful as all hell. Plus, I had to ditch the standard prop for my oil cooler mount. It's a product of necessity.

Awesome build, man. Makes me want to build my bottom end. I better get out of here! lol.

Thanks! You should talk, I covet more than a few pictures of your car. (no homo). If I can say one thing though, build it and balance the entire assembly (dampener, crank, rotating ass'y, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, etc...) You'll thank me later.

the fact you ripped the tires made it all worth it. the tool was a nice choice too ;)

I aim to please. It's a damn good song

[s14unimog]

Well, Roebling went without too much pain. The car ran flawlessly through the whole day and I went through almost two tanks of gas. I've amassed over 16G of HD footage, so its going to take me a minute to get it all organized and cropped into video. Once I get something together, I'll post it up.

If anyone knows the track, then these figures will mean something to ya. My best lap was a 1:25.2 with a top speed on the front straight of 148-150mph (GPS indicated) on the 2.02 mile track. I was running 235/40 Federal 595's @ 32psi and only killed about 3/4" of them but slid out very often. Unfortunately drifting has been banned at Roebling so I was only able to sneak in a couple power slides through turns 5 & 6.

I must say, the experience was eye opening. There is nothing like running your car wide open for lap after lap after lap. You really gain a lot of knowledge about what you've assembled and what it takes to get through a turn quickly. I plan to do this as often as possible. The event and the people made it all the better too. No scene-fan emo boys in their skinny jeans here. Just decent guys, with good jobs and a real interest to go fast. They were practically perplexed by my car and only had good things to say. I learned from so many people and have created valuable friendships for the future. I may just very well stick to this for the future; we'll see...

Video to come.

On a side note, I got a chance to go head to head with a new C6 Z06. We did a slow lap, both rolling onto the front straight at a little under 80mph. We both laid into it and by 150mph he had pulled almost 2 car lengths on me. Unfortunately for me, he was running 285F/315R DOT slicks, ABS, ASM and TCS so I had no chance in the turns. All in all my lap times were about 4-5secs slower than his; although he claimed identical times to me when he ran on street tires.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/E8FBA32A-A394-4F8D-8436-3BD507D30925-4755-0000059D9D504327.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/53DAEE6F-2B6E-4E41-8CAB-3116FC1107E8-4755-0000059DA41343D7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/F0446291-D3F3-4387-A2DD-224F45890F34-4390-00000535AAEAD12A.jpg

[Conrad 2NR]

Does that mean you're gonna put on similar slicks compound for when you hit the track in the future?

Congrats on a problem-less run.

[mostdopes13]

makes me really miss my zenki. looks good bro

[s14unimog]

Does that mean you're gonna put on similar slicks compound for when you hit the track in the future?

Congrats on a problem-less run.

Thanks! Probably try out something in between; maybe some Potenza's or Advan sports. I'm also going to install my boost controller and bump up the boost :naughty:

[KoukiMonsta]

Man, than sounds fun as hell!

Can't wait for some video!

[s14unimog]

A few flybys down the front straight. Bumper cam is coming next...

hZCG83HZBek

[codyace]

Problem free track days mean you're not pushing it hard enough ;) haha I keed I keed.

It's amazing to also see the difference in what a simple tire can do for ya. On one end I like a street tire as it really makes you focus on being smooth and learning the car...but then there is a point where you know you can go faster, but can't due to the tires. I've been putting off getting real tires now all year, and it's finally become frustrating to me that I waited so long. I'm looking at R888's or NT01 for my car...a full slick would rock, but I'd rather have a set of tires last me 2 years :D

Awesome to hear it works out well for ya though, track time is the best time!

[s14unimog]

Yeah Cody, I was surprised on how she did. There is nothing like running your car at WOT for lap after lap. It gives me a whole new respect for why I do the things I do. It teaches you so much about your setup too.

And you're right about the tire. You don't know why you need good tires until you run your car at a road course. I finally feel qualified to say, "that's a good tire" lol.

[jr_ss]

Car sounds great man! I can't wait to get mine finished up...

[s14unimog]

Car sounds great man! I can't wait to get mine finished up...

Thanks bud!

Slowely getting to the rest of my footage; excuse the piss poor editing skills.

-tcuLho0Z90

[xpinoyxmk]

Looks good man. Hows the hks ebc holding up?

[KiLLeR2001]

Awesome! This is exactly what I plan on doing with my S13.5 once I get it completed. Keep up the good work.

[s14unimog]

Looks good man. Hows the hks ebc holding up?

Thanks! Haven't gotten it installed yet; work has kept me slammed.

[TheZ31Guy]

Was expecting some drifts

[s14unimog]

I wish... Unfortunately drifting has been banned at Roebling. It has something to do with the SCCA's affiliation with the track. I was specifically told by the owner that I am not to be drifting and if I was caught I would be thrown out. I tried to knock out a couple slides but I didn't want to get thrown out after all the expenses.

[s14unimog]

I little driveway fun I thought I'd share.

OeJVOiy2i6A

[KoukiMonsta]

I have dreamed for years of having a drift able driveway....holy shit that's awesome!

[Pinggg]

That is one hell of a driveway i must say.

[s14unimog]

I have dreamed for years of having a drift able driveway....holy shit that's awesome!

You're telling me!!! This situation is something I've searched for years for. Best thing, he loves it. Told me to come out any time. YES!!!

I don't know if ya notice; I did a few runs... lol

[s14unimog]

I know it's been a minute, but updates to add...

I haven't really done so much to the car in a while until this recent addition of the GKTech hydraulic dual caliper mount kit - and so, thought I would add some pictures/details. Thankfully the car has actually done quite well. So well in fact, I've participated in numerous roadracing and drift event with it needing nothing more than oil changes, tires, brake bleeding and a steering rack pre-load adjustment. I have to say, the SR20 needs more credit than a lot give it. It's handled 20psi for over 2 years now at around 400whp without a hick-up (knocks on wood)....

Anyways, on with the dual caliper kit install. As most everyone in the S/R-chassis world is aware, GKTech is on the map and a real player for quality parts. I will say that I am not thrilled they are on the other side of the planet, but what they put out stands them apart from the rest. This particular kit was a part of a pre-order/pre-buy back early in the year and due to some legal issues with a vendor, pushed their deliver out longer than I had hoped. Fortunately they have recovered from the incident and are back at it in full capacity. After receiving the kit, I took what was a completed kit and did what I wanted to fit it how I ultimately needed it in my car. Granted, there was enough included to install the setup as they intended, I just simply wanted something specific. So just know that before you think this is how it will go.

The first part of the project for me was the fitting of their caliper mount brackets. Now the beauty of these are the fact you can mount (2) OE Z32 calipers AND retain the factory drum e-brake. Why keep the drum brake? Well, it's nice to retain one on a street/track car - simple. Plus I love the idea of it being, "how Nissan would have wanted it". Unfortunately for the pictures, I didn't take any of the kit straight out of the box, but here is how the mounting goes. I did however take a few of it completed, as well as a few of the interior/lines and handle.

The brackets are laser cut, then machined and sandwiches between the hub and spindle - effectively increasing your offset by 6mm(0.236"). They provided longer 10.9 hardware for the hub and shorter 10.9 hardware for each caliper. The shorter hardware is necessary as the mounting ears are actually thinner than the OE mounts on the spindle and there wouldn't be enough room to accommodate the OE caliper hardware. The design of the bracket has reliefs for the drum assembly, as well as clearances for the pull/release cable for the drums. It's design is quite perfect - there is literately no spare room. It must have been a tedious challenge to get the details ironed out. At this point it becomes quite clear, that the new caliper locations bisect the original caliper placement and so require you to cut off the original mounts from the spindle. I wasn't thrilled that I had to do this. In fact, I was a little apprehensive since I have power coated spindles with poly bushings and there were no instructions, but it was obvious; there was no way around it. So off they came.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/HydroE-BrakeInstall1_zps228c8d0b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/HydroE-BrakeInstall12_zpsd19a56f4.jpg

...and here they are all fitted - I love it! Rear brakes on the top, e-brake on the bottom. This works out best for routing the lines.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/EB5121DA-F27F-47A5-81F1-E6D7426C8CAE_zps7zbrwehf.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/HydroE-BrakeInstall10_zps77569497.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/289C87D0-B357-4BFD-8315-A1059ABB03BB_zpsd84yucob.jpg

Now the next part is obviously routing the lines and mounting the handle. Since the intention of the kit is to retain the factory e-brake. I didn't want to disturb that handle location and ideally I wanted it more forward and close to my steering wheel. Its obvious GKTech didn't intend for this.

To actually make this happen, I needed the MC and reservoir to be forward of the handle and so allow me to get an inward stroke by pulling away from the MC. The handle and bracket provided include an array of mounting and positional options but none of which allow for what I'm describing. This meant I needed to fabricate something. So I drew up a pair of simple adapter brackets, had them laser cut from some mild 0.125" steel and swapped the pivot action of the handle/holes provided.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/BC131158-0257-4420-9395-AE107661191D_zpstls006le.jpg

This worked brilliantly. I didn't have to modify the handle too much outside removing some of the pivot options in the bottom of the handle to clear the MC's clevis and turn down the spacer length for the handle pivot to accommodate the new brackets. I used the hole array on the side of the handle base and just bolted them to each side with some body panel hardware.

After that, I tried fitting the assembly just in front of the shifter location on the driver's side. This meant I had to cut off the tabs that extend beyond the profile of the handle base on both front and back. Here's where that sits.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/9E39EE77-5636-4EE3-88D6-0B4FEB1F2F51_zpsj4qypgim.jpg

Now, there is literately no room to spare. The dash will hardly allow you access to the reservoir but it's just enough. The dash bar mounts are just barely in front of the bracket now, but again; they allow it. So this is where it had to sit. Best thing - works out perfect! Your knuckles don't bash the bar going into 1st, the sweep range of the standard e-brake does not conflict with the hydraulic and its a quick grab right off the steering wheel.

With my dash panel back on and my EDFC module temporarily in a new location, it looks titties!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/4FF8D787-80AC-4D27-9A68-364FD58ADC19_zpsiltyljmn.jpg

Now, what about those lines...

Well, this is where I had to seek out additional length; 24" in fact. The lines provided seem like they will be ideal for the handle mounted somewhere around the original e-brake mount and/or center console. Not sure what the idea was...

At either case, the other issue is how that will work underneath the car. They provide (3) lines and as I see it, that puts them connected to each other somewhere around the nose of the differential. That doesn't work for me. See my subframe is raised up to the body and that means, things are tight down there. Not to mention, since I'm retaining the factory e-brake cables (mine are R33) there is almost no room on top of the drive shaft (larger aluminum one piece). Plus - what a nightmare to access, mount or deal with a leak.

Solution...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/6C27D170-982D-4CEE-85BE-1A05351C6AF8_zpsoupw6ufq.jpg

Since I needed more length anyways, I decided to purchace (2) custom lines from Crown Performance in CA. If you don't know who they are, you should if you ever need any custom brake lines. I've outfitted my drum-to-disk converted lifted jeep with custom assemblies and now the 240 and they have always delivered; and for a great price too. I had them equip one end with a 90* metric inverted flare that had grooving for a standard retainer clip. I mounted those just below the passenger locations in the back seat as so. For the other end, I simply had them install 90* swivels so that I could coerce the lines into contouring the transmission tunnel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/304E9381-DCF8-4323-A834-613EA7268E2B_zpsblpfswwa.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/52FDAD52-E478-47FA-A780-2F9BA68D3B70_zpsfv38hxpc.jpg

Extending the lines here allows me to put the tee connection in the interior and allows me to run each exterior line safely around the subframe mounts - miles away from the drivetrain. Not to mention, looks kinda cool once the interior is back together.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/EF4D1945-496B-4BC9-A52F-0572E2E5E437_zps8kmy9gq0.jpg



So what's the end all for this? I love it! A hydraulic ebrake is a must have for precise car control and is such an improvement over snatching a cable and constantly adjusting drum shoes. If you're in the market for a kit, definitely consider GKTech.

[KoukiMonsta]

Glad the car is doing well and your still alive!

haha cool update, ill have to browse through the build again...its been too long

[s14unimog]

Glad the car is doing well and your still alive!

haha cool update, ill have to browse through the build again...its been too long

Haha, yea still alive - I hope you're doing well too. Life brings you many distractions and I've been a little lacking to the 240. It's strange, when the car doesn't require attention, you don't seem to allocate the time for it; outside the evening or weekend drive and occasional track day. It's strange how you find yourself years later with none of the same friends and the only one still at it...

Continue I will; lol.

[graymaverick]

Dope. Cool dually setup, looks great and functional. I commend you keeping the full interior. Thanks for the update, shows your zenki love...

[jr_ss]

You should at least post a video with the update, damn!

Glad to hear that the car is running great. I can't wait to get mine on the damn road, soon, very soon.

[s14unimog]

Dope. Cool dually setup, looks great and functional. I commend you keeping the full interior. Thanks for the update, shows your zenki love...

Zenki for life is what it's looking like. Thanks!

You should at least post a video with the update, damn! Glad to hear that the car is running great. I can't wait to get mine on the damn road, soon, very soon.

Ha! I suck at the editing... Here are some from a rainy trackday at Roebling Road. I've got some more from my buddies driveway testing the handbrake I need to upload. Follow me on Instagram... s14unimog

wlw9bhXAvoM
SepzmqPgqwQ

[Dcocci]

I just read this entire thread. With your car, you've basically done what I had always wanted to do with my 95 miata from high school that I sold years ago. (Bought it in 2002, back when nobody knew anything about imports). I have all the respect in the world for somebody who buys a car at a young age, and keeps it long enough to modify it to their liking over the years. It's an incredibly long road, but well worth it, and it KILLS ME to this day that I never stuck with the miata! Keep up the great work!

[KoukiMonsta]

Zenki for life is what it's looking like. Thanks!


Ha! I suck at the editing... Here are some from a rainy trackday at Roebling Road. I've got some more from my buddies driveway testing the handbrake I need to upload. Follow me on Instagram... s14unimog



Car sounds great, a driving looks solid! But something seems to be wrong with it...something is lacking...

Ahh yes, tire smoke and rev limiter destruction!

[s14unimog]

I just read this entire thread. With your car, you've basically done what I had always wanted to do with my 95 miata from high school that I sold years ago. (Bought it in 2002, back when nobody knew anything about imports). I have all the respect in the world for somebody who buys a car at a young age, and keeps it long enough to modify it to their liking over the years. It's an incredibly long road, but well worth it, and it KILLS ME to this day that I never stuck with the miata! Keep up the great work!

I appreciate the words. There aren't many out there who have stuck with a car this long. I've been fortunate that I haven't done some irreparable damage to the chassis/body through all the events and kept it out of thief's hands.

Car sounds great, a driving looks solid! But something seems to be wrong with it...something is lacking... Ahh yes, tire smoke and rev limiter destruction!

Thanks! I hear ya - the video is a little lacking without all of that going on, but rest assured that I was having an absolute blast. What is funny about that particular event, with all the rain we had that day, the 5 or so C6 Z06's in attendance wouldn't enter the track in fear of looping them off the course. I had the track practically to myself the entire day. Road racers are a funny group once the rain starts. That 968 owner in chase was actually so intrigued by my sliding that he encouraged me to take his car out just to see if it were possible - of course I obliged:naughty:.

....which reminds me. There have been a couple upgrades I've done here more recently as a result of these road racing track days.

I suppose due to the constant high RPM's on the track, the power steering fluid would get ridiculously overheated; to the point of boiling. Once that started, it would begin to feel as though there were dead spots or gaps in the steering. Although never overflowing too much, there were clear signs I needed to get the temperatures down. Check out the cap seal from my Chase Bay's PS reservoir.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/PSReservoirGasket-12-7-13_zps2d894c89.jpg

Another issue was that damn throttle body pivot shaft breaking. This is the third one I've destroyed. The last time it had happened, I double checked both the floor board and throttle body stops to make damn sure I wasn't over-pulling; they were fine. the pedal hits the floor just before reaching the stop on the body stop. So what's the deal? Essentially the best I can tell is that it's the pull angle with the cable mount location. The location on the intake plenum simply isn't ideal for anchoring the pull at the throttle body and so I set out the change that with a new mount.

same break as last time...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/ECA75C46-7058-40B8-8156-99934123A48B-846-00000156704AAA57.jpg

...and my fancy machined spacer complete with o-ring seals on both sides. No more ratty looking OE paper gaskets.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/ThrottleBodyBracket9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/ThrottleBodyBracket7.jpg

The new bracket forced me into permanently modifying the throttle cable assembly, but after running the car through another few events, I have yet to break anything. As you can see, the new bracket moved the cable to the most ideal postion. Happy to say, problem identified; problem solved. I'm still welding those screws to the pivot shaft though - It's not worth losing a motor. (see pg.1 for more on that).


So what about the power steering overheating? Well, back earlier in my build, you may have noticed I attempted to mount an oil cooler in the grill location between the headlights, but had to abandon the idea as it produced fitment issues with the hood. So much in fact, I ended up having to walk away from that simple aluminum cooling panel I made to allow the hood to close completely. Since I was determined to mount in this location, I had to come up with another mounting solution, and without a grille, it only made since to try to also disguise the inner headlight mounts, as that's really what makes a grille-less Zenki look incomplete. Here is what I came up with.

First off, I bought a simple positioning table from Enco for my drill press and proceeded to relief the cooling panel to allow the hood to close. That turned out much better than I had thought it might.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/B1E82A31-7982-42E6-82C2-BEF23CCEC98F-1643-0000015642ED53FC.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/65B8B9B2-55F9-4A0C-B41B-72D2A217F522-1643-000001562BACD04C.jpg

next were these simple brackets for the head lights....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/PSCoolerMount15_zps96699ee3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/PSCoolerMount14_zps77f5a923.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/PSCoolerMount13_zpsb4f5b641.jpg

all welded up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/PSCoolerMount8_zpsd23125b3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/PSCoolerMount7_zps634fdab1.jpg

built some lines and boom baby - finally got a cooler in the grille area.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/PSCoolerInstall-12-30-133_zps7b69e76c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/1A9EFAD1-E965-4A34-9017-CC4F6EED0249_zpszg69b8fs.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/6AE148DE-8312-4627-A487-DB31F0CE67F4_zpsoswn0xd1.jpg

Oddly enough, I didn't take any pictures of everything plumbed up (which I'll probably go back and update) but it's done everything I had hoped for curing the PS overheating issue. The last drift event I did, the car did absolutely perfect and I've not had a single issue with cavitation or air pockets in the system. At first I thought I might, since the cooler IN/OUT are on the bottom of the cooler in this position but nope, none to speak of.

[tayloray]

This is by far the best build I've seen. I couldn't put into words how well done this is. I wish I had the attention to detail you have.

[KoukiMonsta]

ZOMG MAKE ME A THROTTLE CABLE BRACKET

that is absolutely beautiful!! great idea, i must have this haha

[s14unimog]

This is by far the best build I've seen. I couldn't put into words how well done this is. I wish I had the attention to detail you have.

I appreciate that :)

ZOMG MAKE ME A THROTTLE CABLE BRACKET

that is absolutely beautiful!! great idea, i must have this haha

HA! I actually tried to see if I could gather interest on them a while back and no one bit into it. There is a group that makes a bent stainless piece that essentially does the same thing. I can't remember who the group was though.

...forgot I could link over Instagram video's - check out my page @s14unimog

www.instagram.com/p/qaq-6Pj8Ns

[cchondro]

so clean. love your attention to detail! keep it up.

[greenwood]

great work, your oil cooler is upside down though. http://www.racing-stuff.com/images/oilcoolermount.gif

[s14unimog]

so clean. love your attention to detail! keep it up.

:)

great work, your oil cooler is upside down though. http://www.racing-stuff.com/images/oilcoolermount.gif


Thanks!

This is a pretty commonly debated subject fueled by a lot of forum chatter. Before jumping straight into this, the power steering system and pump type are not like those in an oil system in the engine; there is not a sump to drain back to - not forgetting to mention there are also pressure control valves. For my setup specifically, the fluid does not have anywhere to drain back (my reservoir is actually higher than my cooler core). When installing the cooler, I actually went a step further and primed the core and lines just to start with as little air as possible.

I have never seen a legitimate reason to believe the performance is any different. It is also common place to see coolers mounted in an "upside down" position on an OE setup. Air-cooled motorcycles with external oil coolers are great examples and almost always orient them this way. Just to refute engine oil cooler setup concerns.

[bataangpinoy]

lovely! great attention to detail.

[dubstein]

:)




Thanks!

This is a pretty commonly debated subject fueled by a lot of forum chatter. Before jumping straight into this, the power steering system and pump type are not like those in an oil system in the engine; there is not a sump to drain back to - not forgetting to mention there are also pressure control valves. For my setup specifically, the fluid does not have anywhere to drain back (my reservoir is actually higher than my cooler core). When installing the cooler, I actually went a step further and primed the core and lines just to start with as little air as possible.

I have never seen a legitimate reason to believe the performance is any different. It is also common place to see coolers mounted in an "upside down" position on an OE setup. Air-cooled motorcycles with external oil coolers are great examples and almost always orient them this way. Just to refute engine oil cooler setup concerns.

I believe that the orientation of both fittings on bottom creates an upside down U in the system where air can become trapped if not properly bleed. Usually industrial heat exchangers are oriented on their side with a vent valve near the upper connection to bleed off air. Air in the exchanger will greatly reduce cooling efficiently. You are right, the orientation should not mater because you have back pressure on the system. Priming the core is definitely a good idea! Awesome build! Quality work!

[s14unimog]

Half way through 2016 and I've got to check the time stamps on my posts just to date where I'm at with this car. I have to say, the real reason I've dropped off the (zilvia) planet is simply the s-chassis car culture these days. You either know who you are or you don't. Not sure which is better. I find it easier to just avoid it all. I've since quit attending drift events and now just use the car on weekends or take it to the track for private days with small groups.

Either the case, this thread is a chronological map to where it is today, so I feel a bit compelled to keep it up. It's been almost two years since my last post, and in risk of "don't bump such an old thread", I have to think you get a pass on a build thread. Especially this old and still around one car - an s-chassis at that.

Scrolling back a bit, I see where I left things. So what's happened since?

Well the SR is still pushing 400whp @18psi on the same bottom end. I have literately done nothing to it but change the oil. The same 20G is still in there blowing air and I don't lie when I say it gets driven. Honestly I've had more drivetrain issues than anything (leaky pinion, worn syncros, trashed pilot bearing, etc...). So here recently I've rebuilt a factory SR transmission with new bearings, syncros and seals. The main reason I did not upgrade is simple. I've never broken a gear set, I only seem to wear already tired syncros and the bearings just get loud enough to a point I pull and swap in another. So this time I just wanted to see how a newly rebuilt one would fair. Why? No reason - just curious. Here's a couple pics of that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/0FF929A3-AAAC-4060-B27B-5ABC5EF60124_zpsmljimqvh.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/BB919AE1-8AA3-44FD-A9C5-2BD4F4684340_zpsyvlclzt3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/537F784E-E019-4098-9F6F-17E4793001FC_zpspfpt9fyj.jpg

I need to swap that in before this track day coming up. I'm eager to see what the pilot bearing looks like this time. I ran one of those Z33 needle bearing types and I'm suspecting that it's trashed or completely gone. The car doesn't seem to appreciate an e-brake entry with the clutch in and in gear; sometimes.... It also doesn't seem to like clutch-in reving while in gear; again, sometimes. In the past, the bronze ones I've removed are always squished and elongated, but I suppose that's better than what it seems all of the needle bearing types do (from my research). Time will soon tell. As for the moment, the car drives fine, just doesn't appreciate the quick gear change or the drivetrain coming to an abrupt halt. I don't want to take it to the track like that though.

One of my more recent modifications is actually due to a new toy I got at work; a CNC router. I had some scrap ABS laying around so I decided to re do those cooling panels and finish off the opening where a grille normally sits. Doesn't really do anything, but sure looks better...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/5299EA5A-FFCC-4D02-95CE-876C1E613029_zpscmrj2jkw.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/C296D6A7-014B-4511-B68D-91CC489163AE_zpsjieaevwp.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/10657034-501F-4E08-978A-5CC533CFFAC2_zpsnhsy5mpk.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/3019DFFE-D288-4760-A3A1-0A8EE65F8DCE_zps3qggyhgk.jpg

If you'll notice in the last pic, the carbon on the hood looks a little different. Well, a while back I had the hood propped open when a gust of wind blew it off the rod. The resulting flipped it back across my windshield and cracked both tips at the back end of the hood. Very upsetting. So I set out to repair the damage and once completed had a friend wrap the hood with 3M's "dry carbon" textured wrap. This solved two problems. One, you could still kind of tell that I had repaired the hood up in the corner. It wasn't terrible, but you could tell. Also, the epoxy used in this hood was yellowing as they all do. You can't polish it out since it's UV damage to the clear epoxy, not the clear coat on top. So wrapping it, which turned out to be free, was the way it went. I know I know, everyone wants me to paint the hood, but I still like it. Here's some on the repair.

For the record, I used West Systems 207 Hardener and 104 Resin. The 207 is the trick here since it's the ultra-clear finish you're after for carbon. It's clear. I reinforced the backs with a standard carbon weave. I don't have a picture of the damage but as you can imagine, it's just a cracked and bent up corner. The weird pattern you see in the epoxy is from packing tape. It's a great way to hold epoxy in a location and it will absolutely not stick to the resin.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/07F1140D-2B93-4844-8425-AE1AECFC81C0_zpskl3hfogl.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/CE0837DC-5F94-4642-A42A-5F84F536D221_zpspikyxshk.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/62B52094-0265-406A-B274-3A43D520BF99_zpslfvy36mp.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/8FC0CBEB-A7F5-42E0-BA57-24E8CFE5CCF6_zpsurovu3np.jpg

So as you can see, it's faint but I was actually so tired of people calling it out, I just didn't even want to see it anymore. Despite how well I felt the repair went. So it got wrapped.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/DDE7154B-9296-411D-99ED-3BC54FA75467_zpsrap1wwtx.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/06EF8C0E-0DCA-489C-AA79-F65061593D65_zpsgpglvbsu.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/28645EE8-48FE-43B9-88E2-9B58B1ECABBA_zpsy9nob1zn.jpg

[Dolph_KYAS13]

The one thing I miss about my old job is the CNC router :( did you design and program them yourself?

[s14unimog]

The one thing I miss about my old job is the CNC router :( did you design and program them yourself?

I left a full machine/fabrication shop at my last job for "greener" pastures. I really miss that accessibility.

Yeah, I'm an ME, hobby machinist and design stuff on the daily for all types of mfg. processes. So I'm set up to knock stuff out quickly. Here's a dash I made for my brother-n-laws 510.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/516421BD-23EE-4120-9470-3D098BB4014A_zpstkxoll4c.jpg

[Dolph_KYAS13]

I left a full machine/fabrication shop at my last job for "greener" pastures. I really miss that accessibility.

Yeah, I'm an ME, hobby machinist and design stuff on the daily for all types of mfg. processes. So I'm set up to knock stuff out quickly. Here's a dash I made for my brother-n-laws 510.


I hear that. I'm an industrial designer turned mechanical designer. My old workplace had all the the toys one would want as a hobbiest (Production grade FDM 3d printer and 4x8' CNC router table). It was a shame the management wasnt the greatest or I'd still be there.

Hopefully someday I will get a small machine for myself. It would pay for itself really quickly.

[s14unimog]

I hear that. I'm an industrial designer turned mechanical designer. My old workplace had all the the toys one would want as a hobbiest (Production grade FDM 3d printer and 4x8' CNC router table). It was a shame the management wasnt the greatest or I'd still be there. Hopefully someday I will get a small machine for myself. It would pay for itself really quickly.

So you have illustration skills; not something I possess :coolugh:

For 3D printing these days, it's easier and cheaper to just use a print house. I have a list of about 5 that are my go to for different reasons (elastometric, SLS, SLA, urethane cast, metals, etc...). It's so much more convenient to not have to service and manage the machines. Not to mention, cuts down on the need to have different types of printers and most can turn it around in a week. The router on the other hand is titties - nothing beats the value of traditional machining with CNC. The Laguna HHC I'm using ran about $7500 all said and done.

Well so with the hood fixed and the wrap on, I decided to get some other wheels and give the car a different look. I had recently sold off my Rota Grids and was looking for another set of inexpensive wheels that I wouldn't fret about swapping tires on/off so much. I ended up picking up a new set of Varrstoen ES2's in 18x9.5 +12 all around. Even though the Jlines aren't, it's really convenient running square fitment for track wheels. Varrstoen only carries that size in satin black, so I had them powder coated Aspen gloss white and so signed myself up for constant cleaning of a white wheel. Looks great when it's clean, but damn it if they don't get dirty immediately after cleaning. I need to figure out a go-to wheel coating so I'm not washing brake dust off them so much. Either the case, I think it looks fresh.

Here's them straight out of the box - I just thought the black was too blaaa...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/55447BAF-D838-4B0F-85A6-57673B15F75B_zpsqbkfw2iw.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/EC1970A3-5491-49DF-805D-5713A7D0B1C0_zpslowoviuq.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/60BE6A09-2883-4E8A-BBDC-23D5DC868008_zpshpcdj4fx.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/7C8B0D53-8375-440B-A568-F1A7534D5A80_zpshfhoodw7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/A263F36E-C875-4430-89BC-FFA92AEFB141_zpsqvkpmjgm.jpg

[EnvisionMore]

Just read through this whole thread, great work! Gave me a lot of inspiration and ideas for my build, thank you!

[Gingersmurf]

Thank you guys for bumping this thread, i read through the whole thing. Wow, such an inspiration to get my car done! Fantastic work!

[s14unimog]

^right on guys, thanks!