repairing subframe stud...

[GL Chrillz]

snapped one of the studs that goes thru the subframe bushing basically all the threads are gone off of it. how do i go about getting it out, or repairing it or whatever you do to it. i know someone out there has had this problem or knows how to fix it, but i have yet to get an answer.
pleaseee help so i can get my car back on the road lol
thanks.

[heyitzalan]

snapped one of the studs that goes thru the subframe bushing basically all the threads are gone off of it. how do i go about getting it out, or repairing it or whatever you do to it. i know someone out there has had this problem or knows how to fix it, but i have yet to get an answer.
pleaseee help so i can get my car back on the road lol
thanks.

i've seen it on a build somewhere on this forum a year ago. it can be done. the stud can be order at the dealer. good luck bro

[GL Chrillz]

they can be ordered? damn i didnt know that. ill have to stop in on monday, ill have to cut in from the top then right?

[sil80d]

It happened to a guy here in phx. i will tlk to the fab shop that fixed it tomorrow. Maybe that can shed some light. i had machine shop make a custom set that we used when the trailing arm rear suspension was swapped with the s14 independant rear suspension in my m30 (by the same shop)

[dopplganger1]

you cannot buy one from a dealer you will need to fab one or cut it out of another 240 and weld it on

[ManoNegra]

picture?
threads are damaged beyond a die repair?

only occurance I've known of, user cut a bit of the floor of a donor car with the bolt
and welded it into his car

[codyace]

picture?
threads are damaged beyond a die repair?

only occurance I've known of, user cut a bit of the floor of a donor car with the bolt
and welding it into his car

Winner Winner, Chicken Dinner


...really though, the only repair this side of a die is to cut a hole and fix her up.

[GL Chrillz]

theres like no threads left on it, only like 1 circle around the bolt. if that makes sense. and courtesy nissan has them for sale, i ordered it like an hour ago. i stopped by nissan after class this morning and the only way they could get them is 45 day shipping from japan lol. i guess you repair it by cutting from inside the car to it or something, right?

[GL Chrillz]

also, while that bolt is being shipped (hoping its the right one), how do i put the pbm solid subframe risers in? ive put them in how i believe they go, but 2 of them hit before they can go all the way down into the hole. i feel pretty stupid for not being able to get them to all just drop in lol. heres a pic of what i mean. http://i55.tinypic.com/ephb8g.jpg

[GL Chrillz]

56290A and its nut/washer is what i broke... 431 Rear Suspension :: Axle & Suspension :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: 240SX Parts (S13) 1989-1994 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com (http://www.courtesyparts.com/240sx-parts-s13-1989-1994/genuine-nissan-parts/axle-suspension/431-rear-suspension/-c-1418_1419_1508_1513.html) if im not mistaken, that's it. correct?

[nismo racer]

use a big ass hammer till it goes in? why didnt you use an epoxy to put them in?

id recommend you go to psm forum board and look at the DIY thread on them.

[huffandpuff00]

or use a c-clamp and wood so you don't damage the aluminum spacers.

but like ^^he said you should epoxy them in.
if the insides of the old subframe mounts are sanded down good then the spacer should slide right in without any problems

[projectRDM]

You didn't get the right part. It's not available through Nissan from last time someone did this years ago. I've cut numerous ones from parts cars in my day to send to people who broke them off.

You can either:

A) Cut the section of framerail out and weld the new one in.

B) Cut the floorboard out to access the top of the bolt, drill/cut the welds, remove, then drop a new one in and weld it back.

It's quite a chore.

[GL Chrillz]

I have not put them in permanently, i was just seeing if they all fit. i will be using epoxy when i actually go to put them in. im just wondering why it is hitting on that edge before it goes all the way in. as in, "am i putting this in the right way?" they will physically slide in the hole because i had it sand blasted, so thats not the problem. the problem is where that part angles out like \ the edge of the riser thats flared out hits it before it can sink all the way into the hole. now that i look at it again, that isnt the bolt T_T i was following the line wrong. im not sure where to cut one out of a car, i dont know of many junk s13s in michigan

[didderson]

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/drftrsr20/project%20s13%202/DSCN0351.jpg
Friend had a fabricator fix it from York PA. Link to thread page:
HB's l28et swap : 240sx General Discussion - Page 4 (http://forums.nicoclub.com/hb-s-build-thread-better-late-than-never-t403155-120.html)

Sometimes nico is better. There's real information there with picturesssss :O

[GL Chrillz]

so he just went to a junk yard and had them cut it out? unfortunately, id be willing to bet that theres no junk yard in michigan with a s13.

[Zenki_516]

sometimes nico is better. There's real information there with picturesssss :o

blasphemy!!!

[didderson]

Yes. Cut more of the frame off with it. I don't know how lol, maybe a battery powered sawz-all.


so he just went to a junk yard and had them cut it out? unfortunately, id be willing to bet that theres no junk yard in michigan with a s13.

[GL Chrillz]

now the problem is finding one to hack into in michigan...theyre not very plentiful even running. unless anyone knows of one being parted out. also, does it have to be from an s13, or is the s14 bolt the same thing?

[TheRealSy90]

You're putting the subframe risers in backwards bro. Thick part goes on the bottom of the subframe.

Edit: nvm that is the right side, didn't notice you have the subframe flipped upside down. Try grinding down the part of the subframe that it is hitting.

[GL Chrillz]

yeah i messaged dan from pbm on here and he said hes never seen it but just to grind it down. so now the only problem i will have is finding some car to cut that bolt out of =[

[lflkajfj12123]

also, while that bolt is being shipped (hoping its the right one), how do i put the pbm solid subframe risers in? ive put them in how i believe they go, but 2 of them hit before they can go all the way down into the hole. i feel pretty stupid for not being able to get them to all just drop in lol. heres a pic of what i mean. http://i55.tinypic.com/ephb8g.jpg

did you cut the sleeves out?

put them in the freezer over night then apply the epoxy and they should slip right in

[GL Chrillz]

did you cut the sleeves out?

put them in the freezer over night then apply the epoxy and they should slip right in

sleeves are cut out, they slide in just fine. but they are hitting that thing on the one side that makes like a sidways V. dan said he'd never seen it before and just to grind it or the riser down until it fits in. i dont really know how to explain what its hitting other than to say look at the pic and its on the left side of the riser i have in place.

[hbpignosepa]

that seems like forever ago tom,

yea i was so scared since i used solid mounts, but my family friend has 30+ years of welding experience, he had to get it perfect for it to match up.

good luck!

[GL Chrillz]

im wondering if it HAS to be from an s13? does nissan make/sell that subframe bolt for any other model car that would work at all?

[ManoNegra]

56290A and its nut/washer is what i broke... 431 Rear Suspension :: Axle & Suspension :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: 240SX Parts (S13) 1989-1994 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com (http://www.courtesyparts.com/240sx-parts-s13-1989-1994/genuine-nissan-parts/axle-suspension/431-rear-suspension/-c-1418_1419_1508_1513.html) if im not mistaken, that's it. correct?

That bolt you reference appears to not be the actual subframe bolt
but one that holds the stay bracket in place
which would make your problem a rather trivial one

how about an actual picture of the bolt in your car in question?

[thefro526]

Interestingly enough, I was able to get my risers in without too much hassle. I just tapped them right in with a hammer and a block of wood and they're tight.

so he just went to a junk yard and had them cut it out? unfortunately, id be willing to bet that theres no junk yard in michigan with a s13.

I find it really hard to believe that there's no Junkyard relatively close to you with an S13 in it.

But anyway, find someone parting out a total-ed car or a rusty shell. Cut one of the sub frame studs out of there. Also, it'll help if you pull the stud from an S13 that is essentially identical to yours (Hatch or Coupe, whichever you have) so that you can make an Identical cut in your chassis.

[GL Chrillz]

im trying to find someone with one that is willing to cut it out. i think the closest salvage yard is like 1-1.5hrs away, and most of them dont seem to even advertise for any foreign cars. there was one that did, but they looked like they only did some jaguar or some old car like that.


http://i53.tinypic.com/1tsh6o.jpg

[GL Chrillz]

this is probably a crapshoot, but is this what im looking for? 848 Sub-Frame Kit (http://www.ballerbolts.com/848subframekit.html) or does anyone know of them being able to make such a bolt?

[ManoNegra]

this is probably a crapshoot, but is this what im looking for? 848 Sub-Frame Kit (http://www.ballerbolts.com/848subframekit.html) or does anyone know of them being able to make such a bolt?

No, you don't need "baller" bolts (nor do 99.99% of people)

for the last time
find donor car, cut part, weld part in your car

[GL Chrillz]

i didnt say i "need" them, but it would be easier to buy one from them than try to find a donor car.

[hbpignosepa]

i know if your subframe mount has that kinda rust, the whole body is probably gone by now too....

[Whitemanfro]

I recently fixed this stud (S13), here's how I did it.

My stud was intact, but the threads had been damaged. Cut the threads off and turned down the taper until I could drill a big enough bore.

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm199/mr_bongy27/DSCN2278.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm199/mr_bongy27/DSCN2289.jpg

Drilled the entire length out, Bought a 100mm 12x1.25 bolt(this is what the threads are originally too).

Using a counterbore in the origional stud, I used a 0.0005" press on the head of the bolt after rounding off the hex(last picture).
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm199/mr_bongy27/DSCN2287.jpg
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm199/mr_bongy27/DSCN2290.jpg
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm199/mr_bongy27/DSCN2291.jpg

Next step is to put a bead of weld around the head and the start of the threads, then pound that bitch back in my car! :smash:

Note: I tried to tap a blind hole in the end at first but the steel (case hardened?) broke the tap!

[blueshark123]

thats a pretty great way to fix it but welding it in is easier

[Tearlessj]

This isn't much of a 240 scene in Michigan weird, but yea listen to everyone else. Shouldn't be too hard with some fab tools.

[Whitemanfro]

thats a pretty great way to fix it but welding it in is easier

True, unless you work at a machine shop :2c:

[GL Chrillz]

I fixed this a while ago just by cutting out the bottom of the frame rail in a square about out to the edge of the rail, doing the same with the one i had someone cut out of another shell and welded it in. fairly simple, but i love the way you did yours whiteman. I wish there was more of a 240 scene in michigan, especially where i live. I ended up getting a new shell though, so i'll probably end up cutting out all the studs and saving them out of my old one just in case myself or anyone else needs one. because it took me over a month to source one

[future]

I fixed mine before, see i bought a new subframe. Then swapped everything over, pretty complex and lots of welding and shit