S13 Suspension setup for canyon/time attack????

[AnthonysSilvia]

hey guys i just wanna know what you guys think about suspenson setups for running on canyons/ road racing. i wanna know camber, toe, height, etc. just let me know what i should do with my suspension setup for the best traction :) no drift setups please.

Thanks let me kno what you guys think????:


2f2f:

[[email protected]]

-5* camber all around and instead of coilovers, run a solid piece of steel to get maximum stiffness

[AnthonysSilvia]

yeah ill try that out.......................................

Fail.

[kevmeistah21]

Max negative camber for max grip on those turns bro!

[daveygts]

Yashio track coils kazama arms and then take it to westend alinement you wanna have some rebound you don't I repeat you want it to stiff !

[daveygts]

And camber -3 no more than that ! I'm a canyon rat been one for 12 years

[usdm180sx]

Hit up Darrin at west end alignment in gardena

[Metalshark]

Its all relative to weight displacement but my circuit S13's run 12kg/10kg spring rigidity (with KA24DE) SR20 is about 60LBS lighter.
The engine adds front end weight.. ride height plays a big factor so make sure you are low and weight is being displaced in the right spots.
camber is good around -2.5 front and rear.
trial an error works best when tuning struts.
with that it should be easy to pull over 1G through a corner

[AnthonysSilvia]

thanks guys. ill try what you guys said :) im onna kill the canyons this weekend!!!!

[karl wasabi]

Ah shit, for canyons? You're gonna need to max out the camber on your coilovers. The moar negative camber the better. You also want your suspension to be as stiff as possible, like 16kg or moar. After that you need to slam it to the floor, remove collars to get it as low as possible!

[Croustibat]

If you want it to handle, keep it at oem height, or it is going to toe out as soon as you start to brake, which you dont want... either that or get modified knucles. You could get an S14 subframe with offset bushes too, and front S14 lower arms (with S14 ball joint), this will give wider track too. Get grippy tyres, and then only you can start worrying about suspension setup.

I am getting pretty nice results with -0,5° camber rear, 6minutes toe in rear, -1,5° camber front, 5minutes toe out front, 7° caster front. And 4 to 5kg springs on coilovers with 4mm preload, because strong springs are just not tyre compliant, and bouncing everywhere does not help handling. It just kills your back. You could go up to -2,5° front camber and -1° rear camber if your bushes are soft or if you use dot R compound tyres. Otherwise it will just grind tyres AND lose handling. The more caster you set, the more negative camber you gain when turning, so dont bother with a lot of static camber, just add caster. 7° is the most you can use without getting binds with PU bushes, you need rose joints to get more.

With my setup, i get more than 1.1G on track. With street tyres (maxxis MAZ1).

Basically, slammed cars with stiff springs are good for ricers and masochists. Are you one of these ?

[alexanderig]

^^ listen to him at stock ride height there isnt a hint of body roll and it wont feel like the car is going to flip

sarcasm

[AnthonysSilvia]

are you retarded??? stock height,i didnt know monster trucks can run in the canyons?ahahahah nahh im fucking slammed. lowerest part of my car in a half inch off the ground :)

[AnthonysSilvia]

and stiff springs?? i got megan track coils :)

[Croustibat]

Do you want grip, or "style" ?

If you want grip, stick to oem height. Or you are going to spend a shitload of money on new knuckles, suspension arms with corrected ball joints, and welding work on your subframe.

Your choice. but you cant get a grippy car AND a slammed car without spending loads of money and time. Even then, the work needed to make a slammed car handle well cannot be done by everyone, it is not just a matter of bolting things together.