my 240sx has some problems :(

[RacerfreakXXX]

I'm having some problems hopefully you guys can help:

I have a 92 140sx coupe auto converted to manual trans w/ ka24de

1st - temp gauge isn't working, sender and temp sensor has been replaced and gauge worked when there was an sr in the chassis and so far the doesn't seem to have overheated from what I know. Whats the best next step to finding out whats wrong? (All I can think is its the wiring in the harness, want to see what else it could be.)

2nd - clutch just drops down to engagement point and doesn't come back up unless I pull it, trans chatters in 1st and 2nd and also grinds into second. whats the issue/ solution? (I was thinking it could be the pivot ball or the bearing idk???) My original issue was that the clutch was engaging right after pushing it in an inch, literally. I check the clutch and saw there was a bolt stopping the clutch from coming forward (clutch looked sunken in compared to the brake pedal), removed it and now I have my current problem.

[chituntang]

1st - do you know if you have a SR cluster or KA cluster? Assuming KA cluster with SR temp sensor reads overheat easily, the opposite would make it impossible to move in the first place. But if it is a KA sensor with KA cluster, assuming both works, you need to connect them directly to see if it is the wiring...

2nd - If you engage the clutch and it is not coming back up, you need to bleed it. Plus you should not remove the bolt you remove. You should be able to adjust it so the clutch and brake pedal lines up...

[RacerfreakXXX]

1- Its a KA cluster and i believe the sensor is aftermarket. I guess I'll try and find the wires for the temp and connect them.

2- Clutch comes back up but not fully, just sloppy mess shortly after engagement point. The only way the clutch lines up with the break is if i remove the bolt, that's where there is sloppiness. I'm assuming that's because its an auto brake pedal, or does it not make a difference?

[modulation]

1- Its a KA cluster and i believe the sensor is aftermarket. I guess I'll try and find the wires for the temp and connect them.

2- Clutch comes back up but not fully, just sloppy mess shortly after engagement point. The only way the clutch lines up with the break is if i remove the bolt, that's where there is sloppiness. I'm assuming that's because its an auto brake pedal, or does it not make a difference?

1. Are you sure you replaced the right temp sender? There are 2, you want the one that is just 1 wire.

2. Did you delete your clutch dampner? Get rid of that thing and bleed everything again. If that doesn't work when was the last time the slave and master were replaced? I had the same problems and I ended up just replacing everything.

[RacerfreakXXX]

Well after driving my car for a mile, letting it idol for 5 min and then revving it lightly for 5 min the temp gauge went up. Also when the car is at idle for more than a few min, once it is warmed up, the temp gauge starts to go down, figure its from the clutch fan?

I think I'm just going to replace the transmission next year since I'm grinding into 2nd gear over 3k and every time I downshift into 2nd.

[SoBay240guy]

well it's not the trans likely...it sounds like just some clutch setup issues, like modulation says you may want to remove damper and rebleed system, use only the threaded rod from the master to the back of pedal to adjust clutch height,

Do you have the retract spring installed on the clutch pedal bracket? it helps bring the clutch all the way up so that the fluid reservoir can replenish and displaced fluid,

Auto and manual pedals are the same height and offset only difference is width of pad...Manonegra made me remove one because he swore they were different...they were the same...i beat him relentlessly.....

also replacing the master and save is pretty cheap if you go to rock auto or get the OEM ones off E-bay (they really are OEM Nabco good shit)

[Mishkin_707]

For your temp sensor, if the car is warmed and the needle for the temp goes down, turn on your heater and see if it's warm, if not it might just be your thermostat or a bubble in your coolant lines