rear end clunk :|

[lflkajfj12123]

can't for the life of me figure out whats causing this

crappy video
vT1PcsKQzAA
:wtf:

the car clunks upon swift engagement of the clutch, tapping of the throttle, and in between shifts. no clunk when braking. basically anything that shocks the drivetrain makes it clunk.

things i have done to try and diagnose it / mods to the car

solid subframe bushings (psm risers)
nismo motor mounts and trans mount
full spl arms (professionally installed and aligned)
swapped whole pumpkin to a s13 good pumpkin with a tomei 2 way that had no issues (lash was set perfect on both diffs)
1 piece dss aluminum driveshaft
the rear bumper support is solid tight
nothing in the trunk or anything like that
coilover tophats are tight as
coilovers are not leaking and i don't suspect them to be blown at all
the subframe has NO visual cracks on the bottom and i cannot feel any on the top of it
every nut and bolt is tight
balljoints seem superb (CAR ONLY HAS 70K MILES)

crossing out the driveshaft and diff leads me to believe its the axles but it they are in perfect condition. no tears to the boots. when i try and move them with my hands i can't create any play they seem fine... but this is the next thing i'm going to try replacing anyway

the noise is much more apparent on the driver side rear but i don't even know what to think anymore

one more thing i was questioning, when i try to spin the rear wheels while the car is in gear i felt like i had a lot more resistance to spin them than on my friends s13. he has an open diff and i have the 2way... not sure if its just the nature of the diff causing that. i can't imagine my transmission being bad and causing this clunk. all though the trans feels funny going into gear but i figured it was because of this lash in the drivetrain. trans fluid has been changed too.

i have searched through every thread on the internet and have yet to find a solution

would be awesome if anyone can add some insight thank you :wan:

[matts13vert]

Have u checked your diff's back lash?

[lflkajfj12123]

yes. i swapped whole pumpkin anyways. my old diff was installed professionally and the new diff the previous owner had no problems with it. the backlash is not causing it, shits good.

[KiLLeR2001]

This is probably a combination of the solid subframe bushings + 2way LSD. Not only that but your car is not even on the ground.

[Corbic]

DId you just change you wheels?

I had a chunk like that when I had a hub go bad after a someone didn't torque the wheel down on their side.


Motor Mounts and exhaust mounts may be shot, i know my car currently vibrates violently going in reverse because of those, whole exhaust bangs around. *Sigh*

[future]

I have the same noise, I'm suspecting my pos vlsd cause the j30 I pulled it out of was at 190k and the oil in there looks like it was never changed. And I never thought about checking backlash

With my car in gear you can't get on and off the gas fast or without putting the clutch inane easing like your starting from a stop. If that makes any sense. But if you don't the car shakes back and forth (like when somebody is learning to drive stock and can't drive for shit) I originally though it was my mounts that were torn. But that didn't work. Now I also suspect my suspensions arms in the back. Cause when I installed my rear toe arms the noise is louder then when it was jut after market RUCA.

I'll keep a eye on this thread cause I'd deff like to fix that nasty noisE

[lflkajfj12123]

This is probably a combination of the solid subframe bushings + 2way LSD. Not only that but your car is not even on the ground.

This doesn't occur on other s chassis i've seen with solid bushings and 2 way. The car is on the ground in the video... the clunk does still occur when i put it on jack stands and play with the the clutch.

DId you just change you wheels?

I had a chunk like that when I had a hub go bad after a someone didn't torque the wheel down on their side.


Motor Mounts and exhaust mounts may be shot, i know my car currently vibrates violently going in reverse because of those, whole exhaust bangs around. *Sigh*

Wheels are probably fine, they've been put on multiple times with a torque wrench. I will obviously double check that. Car also has 15mm spacers in the rear which I will also check again. Seems like that would be a silly thing to cause this.

Motor mounts were just replaced with new nismo jawns. I took the whole exhaust off and it still clunks.

I assume the hubs are fine because I cannot create any play by tugging on the wheels with the ebrake on and I figured a bad hub is a different noise than a clunk.

[s13 loverr]

Have you tried reinstalling the clutch? I know it sounds weird but just as a suggestion.

[joefresh]

Id suggest getting under there with a pry bar and try moving some possible pieces around, I know you posted your cv joint is bad, maybe the bushings on your upright are toast like mine

reread the post, have you replaced the diff carrier bushings in the subframe? it kinda sounds like something is broken, can you shift the subframe around with a pry bar?

[lflkajfj12123]

Have you tried reinstalling the clutch? I know it sounds weird but just as a suggestion.

Sounds crazy. I probably won't do this.

Id suggest getting under there with a pry bar and try moving some possible pieces around, I know you posted your cv joint is bad, maybe the bushings on your upright are toast like mine

Nothing really to pry with all the solid bushings. When the car is on jackstands and I make it clunk you really can't see anything strange happening. Everything just appears normal.

My CV joints are good as far as I can tell, I think you misread. I'll keep the upright bushings in mind, plan on doing the drop knuckle soon anyway.

[joefresh]

I got all the same shit literally except the risers and my diff is kaaz, like i said it sounds broken, either your diff or some joint is fucked you should be able to see some movement man

[KiLLeR2001]

I suggest swapping in your friends open diff that doesn't clunk at all, and see what that does. A lot of work yes, but if you can eliminate the problem that way then its worth it.

edit: Do you have a proper alignment done? Not saying that'll solve your clunk but improper alignment isn't helping any.

[lflkajfj12123]

As I said in my original post, the diff has been swapped out (whole pumpkin). There was nothing wrong with the old diff and there is nothing wrong with the new one. The clunk is occurring else where in the drivetrain. The sound did not change at all between the two diffs.

Yes, the car was aligned at Touge Factory. Along with the old diff install and all the arms. Shits pro.

[PoorMans180SX]

Have you crawled under the car while it's on jackstands/a lift and searched for the noise? That's a crazy sound and with the stuff you've replaced, I think that's the only way you're going to find it.

Also, yes, your wheels will have more resistance to turning than they would with an open diff. It's natural and perfectly fine.

[Matej]

Inspect the driveshaft.

[lflkajfj12123]

@ Poor,

Yeah, me and a friend have stared at the drivetrain while the car was on stands making the noise. Nothing seems unusual.

Playing with the axles by hand doesn't seem to have any excess play. The output shafts on the diff start spinning as soon as you move the axle. Makes me think the CV joints are fine but I won't know until I replace them...

I've also hear of the nut for the axles through the hub isn't tight enough, new 350z have this problem I think. Will be trying to rule that out when I put in new axles.

Thanks on the diff answer, me and my friend were scratching our heads.

@ Matej,

I just installed a brand new DSS 1 piece today. I am posting this thread now after that not working and being completely frustrated.

[IIIXziuR]

Didn't you have the same exact problem with your old S13?
This is like DéjÃ* vu or something...

[lflkajfj12123]

Dude, I totally did. That's why this is pissing me off so much.

It's like a curse that follows me from s-chassis to s-chassis.

I sold my S13 because of this problem. Now the S14 has it about 6 months after owning it.

My FC3S didn't do this... just sayin

MidwestMyriad pointed out it must be the driver Ha~HA -______-

[yomisiu]

take it to a shop and have them figure it out before it gets worse and stuff starts to break

[Matej]

Can you feel it vibrate the car, or is it just the noise?
Any possibility it could be the exhaust?

[lflkajfj12123]

take it to a shop and have them figure it out before it gets worse and stuff starts to break

In hindsight, after spending thousands of dollars, I should have done that from the start. However, I feel like they wouldn't be able to figure it out either unless they had spare parts to swap in and out.

Can you feel it vibrate the car, or is it just the noise?
Any possibility it could be the exhaust?

Vibration not really, you can hear the noise and feel the clunk in the car.

We unbolted the exhaust and moved it to the side while the car was on jack stands. It still clunked :/ that was one of the first things we thought because the exhaust moves around a bit.

[PoorMans180SX]

I'm saying you should feel along the drivetrain while it's clunking. Maybe you can pinpoint the source by feeling it.

[lflkajfj12123]

I'll give that a try but it requires 2 people. Someone has to be engaging and disengaging the clutch for it to clunk. Hope I don't lose a finger.

[Matej]

Since you replaced or checked pretty much everything else, my guess would be the transmission. :-/

This fellow's bad rear transmission bearing seemed to cause similar symptoms:
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/145929-drivetrain-clunking.html

[seeks14]

sounds like an axle problem. sounds like cv joints are dried out..just my 2 cents..let me know what you find out and good luck wish i could be more help ..

[lflkajfj12123]

That would be a bummer. Is there anyway to confirm the transmission is creating this clunking without swapping it out?

I have stock clutch and all that so its never been messed with.

@seek

Could be... but the CV boots are not torn or anything. Looks like new, from inspection I feel like it can't be the axles but I will be trying that next if no one comes up with anything on here.

[dreamin240sx]

ya man it sounds like theres something wrong with your tranny.

[[email protected]]

i say tranny as well..try to start(as it from a stop sign) in second gear and see if it does it.

[lflkajfj12123]

i say tranny as well..try to start(as it from a stop sign) in second gear and see if it does it.

It does it in second gear from start and first and reverse. It also does it between shifts and on/off throttle.

[ILoveMyRHS13]

Do a burnout. If something breaks, you'll know what the problem is. If nothing breaks, you win.

Seriously, though, you have horrible luck with clunking rears, don't you?

[One_love_silvia]

if u cant see anything wrong with it when ur looking while its on jacks, wouldn't it make sense for it to be an internal problem?
which would lead to the tranny like everyone else says.

just a hypothesis

[Zero-Offset]

Didn't you have the same exact problem with your old S13?
This is like DéjÃ* vu or something...

i thought i remembered this same problem from that vid you posted a while back too.

i began hearing a similar clunk, albeit not to the noise level yours sounds like, right after installing polyeurathane subframe collars.
i have a friend with SOLID aluminum subframe inserts, and his makes a clunk similar to mine, but louder.
from the conclusion i've come to its got to be the diff. the stock rubber subframe bushings take up the slack of this noise im guessing, compared to when the subframe doesn't move at all with collars or aluminum inserts. with that vid you posted a while back, whenever you moved the pinion gear, it made that clunk. got to be in the design of the diff.

it could very well be a different noise im hearing in the vid as most 240s have a hell of a lot of different 'rear end' noise. but this is in my opinion.

just my 0.02 cents anyways.
i HATE the odd sounds my car makes and i DEFINITELY can tell a 'new' noise as soon as i hear it, as it sounds like you are too. sometimes it just takes breaking something to figure out the weakest link :yum:

im in for the 'do burnouts until shit breaks' idea haha.

[KiLLeR2001]

As I said in my original post, the diff has been swapped out (whole pumpkin). There was nothing wrong with the old diff and there is nothing wrong with the new one. The clunk is occurring else where in the drivetrain. The sound did not change at all between the two diffs.

Yes, the car was aligned at Touge Factory. Along with the old diff install and all the arms. Shits pro.

Well I'm saying try an actual open differential, not another LSD. My friend has this same issue but the clunk is not as extreme is yours (but its exactly the same). When he switched to an open differential it wasn't as bad, but still there. We came to the conclusion that it had to be the transmission. He also tried many sets of axles.

[s14j]

have you replaced this yet?
http://i53.tinypic.com/155rind.jpg
maybe one peace drive shaft caused them to brake?

sounds like a drive shaft problem to me. tranny wouldn't make a noise that far back. but then again idk,

[joeapple8]

When did you start noticing the clunk, did you do any work on the car prior to clunk? I've had this happen to me on my 1st 240sx ever, I installed the clutch disk backwards.

[CrimsonRockett]

Have the exact same issue on both my S13 and my brother's S14.

Mine started right after doing my 5-speed swap. Used all new mounts, new clutch, new flywheel, super low mileage trans, good driveshaft, etc. Never figured it out. Car had around 45k when we did the 5-speed swap. Diff made absolutely no noise whatsoever prior to the swap.

My brother's Kouki started up right after I replaced his clutch. Made absolutely no noise whatsoever prior to the clutch job.

Could it be that the driveshaft is sitting so close to the transmission, the small jolts make them smack together? Sounds stupid, but maybe try loosening the motor/trans mounts and pushing it forward just a bit. I noticed on my Kouki (SR swapped), the driveshaft wasn't inserted all of the way in, but it made absolutely no noise whatsoever. Super smooth shifting.

When I dropped the trans on both my brother's Kouki and my hatch, we had to tilt the motor back with the motor mounts still attached.

[projectRDM]

I didn't bother reading through all the replies or watching the video due to time restraints, but here's a few things to try:

Do it with the wheels off the car. The noise could be coming from a bad hub and is amplified by the wheel.

Loosen the axle nuts a little, see if there's a change. If not, retorque them to spec, NOT with an impact, and try again.

Loosen the axle to diff flange bolts a little, let the axles 'sag' (rotate without a load) then tighten them back to spec.

Have you checked the transmission mount?

Is there anything on the firewall or under the floorboard that could make contact under load? Noises can be very elusive and sound like they're coming from one place but in reality are somewhere else entirely. My Lexus had a fender liner screw retainer pull out of the wheel well and it sounded like a loose item in the glovebox. I almost never found it to be the culprit. Don't dismiss anything loose on the car as being the cause, no matter where it is.

[mantas]

My s14 had this problem after some jackass rebuilt my transmission and welded my 2 piece driveshaft into one - go figure. I got so sick of the noise, transmission acting weird, and the shop not doing squat about it, that I replaced the tired rb20 with and rb25 trans myself. Noise never returned, and I also got an aluminum one piece. It's been almost 2 years and it still drives like a champ with no noise...might be worth taking a look at the trans and driveshaft. I can't tell you which one of the 2 fixed the problem but i know it's gone lol

[di-devol]

I have the same problem, had it since I got this hatch. I even think I've posted on the older clunk thread. I too thought I fixed it but it came back.

I've replaced:
all suspension arms, hubs, axles, installed poly trans and motor mounts, installed dss steel driveshaft, replaced whole diff (open, welded, didn't matter), I have spl v01 solid subframe bushings, all other bushings are poly, removed the rear bumper support(just to check to see if it would stop clunking) removed sway bar, changed end-links, removed subframe multiple times looking for damage.

It just clunks, end of story. I can find nothing, took it to a buddy's shop, started swapping out parts, NOTHING.

I gave up. I drift it, shits fucking kosher. Just annoying, I hope you have better luck. I think it's just the combo of having solid bushings, a locking diff, and all that amplifying the sound.

[HMKnobs]

Sounds exactly like a non tightened driveshaft. Id make sure all ur bolts are tight. Cause if the bolts are even somewhat lose they wil start to loosen pretty quickly if drove.

[lflkajfj12123]

have you replaced this yet?
http://i53.tinypic.com/155rind.jpg
maybe one peace drive shaft caused them to brake?

sounds like a drive shaft problem to me. tranny wouldn't make a noise that far back. but then again idk,

I don't think that part matters? There's a small whole in the subframe for the stud to go through and the bolt just secures it. No need for a bushing there.

Driveshaft has been replaced so thats not it. Thats what I thought about it being the transmission but I guess its possible.

When did you start noticing the clunk, did you do any work on the car prior to clunk? I've had this happen to me on my 1st 240sx ever, I installed the clutch disk backwards.

Actually happened at a drift day noticed it on the ride home. It probably happened on a spin that broke a plethora of other things. Car has stock clutch and the transmission fluid was just replaced before the drift day.


Have the exact same issue on both my S13 and my brother's S14.

Mine started right after doing my 5-speed swap. Used all new mounts, new clutch, new flywheel, super low mileage trans, good driveshaft, etc. Never figured it out. Car had around 45k when we did the 5-speed swap. Diff made absolutely no noise whatsoever prior to the swap.

My brother's Kouki started up right after I replaced his clutch. Made absolutely no noise whatsoever prior to the clutch job.

Could it be that the driveshaft is sitting so close to the transmission, the small jolts make them smack together? Sounds stupid, but maybe try loosening the motor/trans mounts and pushing it forward just a bit. I noticed on my Kouki (SR swapped), the driveshaft wasn't inserted all of the way in, but it made absolutely no noise whatsoever. Super smooth shifting.

When I dropped the trans on both my brother's Kouki and my hatch, we had to tilt the motor back with the motor mounts still attached.

Interesting, I'll have to check that out. Although it did make the noise before I swapped the motor and trans mounts.

I didn't bother reading through all the replies or watching the video due to time restraints, but here's a few things to try:

Do it with the wheels off the car. The noise could be coming from a bad hub and is amplified by the wheel.

Loosen the axle nuts a little, see if there's a change. If not, retorque them to spec, NOT with an impact, and try again.

Loosen the axle to diff flange bolts a little, let the axles 'sag' (rotate without a load) then tighten them back to spec.

Have you checked the transmission mount?

Is there anything on the firewall or under the floorboard that could make contact under load? Noises can be very elusive and sound like they're coming from one place but in reality are somewhere else entirely. My Lexus had a fender liner screw retainer pull out of the wheel well and it sounded like a loose item in the glovebox. I almost never found it to be the culprit. Don't dismiss anything loose on the car as being the cause, no matter where it is.

I will try taking the wheels off and checking the axle bolts.

The axle to output shafts have been removed multiple times during the diff exchange and it was still there after retightening.

Transmission mount is brand new nismo guy.

The noise is so loud now I feel like it can't come anywhere but the drivetrain. I did check almost everything I thought that could be loose and move. Keep in mind it does this with the car a stop so the noise is only coming from the drivetrain wanting to move.

My s14 had this problem after some jackass rebuilt my transmission and welded my 2 piece driveshaft into one - go figure. I got so sick of the noise, transmission acting weird, and the shop not doing squat about it, that I replaced the tired rb20 with and rb25 trans myself. Noise never returned, and I also got an aluminum one piece. It's been almost 2 years and it still drives like a champ with no noise...might be worth taking a look at the trans and driveshaft. I can't tell you which one of the 2 fixed the problem but i know it's gone lol

I have the aluminum one piece. Which means I would have to swap the transmission if we're in the same boat. :dead:

I have the same problem, had it since I got this hatch. I even think I've posted on the older clunk thread. I too thought I fixed it but it came back.

I've replaced:
all suspension arms, hubs, axles, installed poly trans and motor mounts, installed dss steel driveshaft, replaced whole diff (open, welded, didn't matter), I have spl v01 solid subframe bushings, all other bushings are poly, removed the rear bumper support(just to check to see if it would stop clunking) removed sway bar, changed end-links, removed subframe multiple times looking for damage.

It just clunks, end of story. I can find nothing, took it to a buddy's shop, started swapping out parts, NOTHING.

I gave up. I drift it, shits fucking kosher. Just annoying, I hope you have better luck. I think it's just the combo of having solid bushings, a locking diff, and all that amplifying the sound.

I need to get rid of the sound. I daily drive it. Noise is horrendous. I think I read your thread where you had the loose rear bumper support?

So the only thing you haven't replaced is the transmission?

Sounds exactly like a non tightened driveshaft. Id make sure all ur bolts are tight. Cause if the bolts are even somewhat lose they wil start to loosen pretty quickly if drove.

Driveshaft has been replaced, and the bolts were retightened twice now between the diff swap and new ds.

[joefresh]

do you really think 2 of the 4 mounting points for the diff. dont matter?

Nismo Differential Bushing Mounting Kit S14 S15 (http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-Differential-Bushing-Mounting-Kit-S14-S15_p_12753.html)

I have this on my car too, i didnt see you mention these bushings in your list which is why i asked on the first page

[silva.240]

it is definately a transmission issue. i've owned 3 240s myself and have had several close friends buy themselves toys. and its a tranny problem ... how tight are your gears at the shifter. Like in 1st -5th + R gear is your shifter feel a little loose per gear.... ? as long as you dont have a short shifter . its a great way to tell how the tranny is holding up. good luck changing transmissions. i'd just take it out . have it rebuilt for 150 bucks put a good clutch in and call it a day

[MidwestMyriad]

Those mounts are for S14-15 pumpkins that have the bushings in the front, s0ap has an S13 pumpkin so those bushings are non-existent

[di-devol]

I need to get rid of the sound. I daily drive it. Noise is horrendous. I think I read your thread where you had the loose rear bumper support?

So the only thing you haven't replaced is the transmission?This is my daily as well. The loose bumper support did make a similar sound, I thought that fixed it but by driving around the block, it was still there.

Noticed something today though(reading your troubles again re-kindled the fire):

Car's rear end in the air, wheels on, out of gear brake off.

Spin the wheel a direction then spin sharply the opposite direction. CLUNK!

Now wheels off, get under and spin your new dds driveshaft and feel for play. It changes based on the gear it's in. The clunk is coming from where the driveshaft meets the tranny. I can feel the clunk there, but hear it at the diff.

I am guessing it has to be the tranny. I've always heard it at the rear, never "felt" it before. On my list to get in the next couple of days. I'll post the results.

[joefresh]

well then i have no idea, still sounds like there is slack in something or something is loose causing the bang when the drivetrain is shocked, so it could only be a few things to check

[CrimsonRockett]

Now wheels off, get under and spin your new dds driveshaft and feel for play. It changes based on the gear it's in. The clunk is coming from where the driveshaft meets the tranny. I can feel the clunk there, but hear it at the diff.

I am guessing it has to be the tranny. I've always heard it at the rear, never "felt" it before. On my list to get in the next couple of days. I'll post the results.

Try what I mentioned earlier. I haven't had time to try it on my brother's Kouki, but that just might be it. The motor/transmission might just need to be adjusted a bit forward (toward the front end giving it some space between the transmission and the driveshaft).

Loosen motor/trans mounts, have someone "pull" on the motor a bit while you tighten the mounts underneath. See if that makes a difference.

I remember trying everything BUT this on my S13 when I was actually driving it (some two years ago).

I've never had this issue when pulling out/dropping in complete motors/transmissions. Seems to only happen when we only drop the transmission.

[di-devol]

You know, I'll try that right now. Considering I did drop the tranny to fix a bad throw out bearing.

[lflkajfj12123]

it is definately a transmission issue. i've owned 3 240s myself and have had several close friends buy themselves toys. and its a tranny problem ... how tight are your gears at the shifter. Like in 1st -5th + R gear is your shifter feel a little loose per gear.... ? as long as you dont have a short shifter . its a great way to tell how the tranny is holding up. good luck changing transmissions. i'd just take it out . have it rebuilt for 150 bucks put a good clutch in and call it a day

Is this what you're referring to?

7YbYeBYOoJk

No short shifter, feels loose / has that play in every gear. I always thought this is normal.

[Drift_86]

Do you have and abs drive shaft with a non abs differential?

[lflkajfj12123]

Non abs driveshaft with non abs differential

[yomisiu]

all that movement isn't normal, at least for my car it isn't.

[CamryOnBronze]

Well I'm saying try an actual open differential, not another LSD. My friend has this same issue but the clunk is not as extreme is yours (but its exactly the same). When he switched to an open differential it wasn't as bad, but still there. We came to the conclusion that it had to be the transmission. He also tried many sets of axles.

The 2 way in s0ap's car was in my car two weeks ago (with solid subframe bushings) and did not make any noise remotely like this.

As for the play with the shifter, my S13 was exactly the same with the stock shifter. I think that is pretty normal personally...

Sorry to hear that you are still having issues, man. I really thought it could have been driveshaft related. I am stumped on this one so far...

[di-devol]

Crimson, no good man. Moved the motor forward about 1/8 and tightened her down. If anything it's louder lol.

Thanks for the idea though.

[lflkajfj12123]

^ Thanks for trying it before I did haha

[Razi]

A stock shifter will always have some movement in it since the shaft is 2 pieces connected with rubber.
I doubt this is a transmission issue.

[future]

I'm on the trans/drivetrain problem

[Theodawg]

Backlash on a "rebuilt" diff - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxIpXVMMrM8&feature=related)

I know you said it wasn't your diff, but I had a very similar issue and, well ^

Whatever it happens to be, hope you find it and get it fixed

[KiLLeR2001]

As for the play with the shifter, my S13 was exactly the same with the stock shifter. I think that is pretty normal personally...

Yes, my transmission with the stock shifter also has the same amount of play.

Like I said, my friend has this exact same issue and we've been going at it for months. Jacked the car up, looked at everything, it only seems to happen when the drivetrain is shocked. He has replaced countless differentials, many sets of axles, brand new polyurethane bushings all around... The only thing left he hasn't done is the transmission. And his transmission is not in the best of shape.

[lflkajfj12123]

Backlash on a "rebuilt" diff - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxIpXVMMrM8&feature=related)

I know you said it wasn't your diff, but I had a very similar issue and, well ^

Whatever it happens to be, hope you find it and get it fixed

Neither diff I had in the car has that much play in it. Backlash is spot on :/

[di-devol]

The only thing left is the tranny. If after I replace that and it still does it, I'm gonna assume it's just loud.

[lflkajfj12123]

Replace yours first so you can save me some time :)

[dub40sx]

I really didn't want to read EVERY post on here but I don't think anyone mentioned it.

Check your subframe itself, it could have torn. It happened to me once. Just left of there mounting bolts on the rear of the diff.

[essforteen]

Axle! Take them off then try to see if it still clunks!

[di-devol]

Of course it won't clunk, there will be nothing connecting the drive train. I think we figureing out that it's where the tranny meets the drive shaft. It might clunk a little, but I don;t think there will enough shock to make the noise we constantly hear.

[essforteen]

Of course it won't clunk, there will be nothing connecting the drive train. I think we figureing out that it's where the tranny meets the drive shaft. It might clunk a little, but I don;t think there will enough shock to make the noise we constantly hear.

The differential still has load IF it doesnt clunk then it wont be the transmission!
My axles made the same noise before they went out! If you are low the stress in
the increase of angle on the axle will cause the internal to clunk and the problem
is escalated if you have a clutch type LSD or Welded due to harsh engagement!

Check it out before you waist more money!

[di-devol]

So the brand new axles I put on could be the clunk?

[essforteen]

So the brand new axles I put on could be the clunk?

I was not aware you put on new axles nor that you have the same problem im not Cleo i cant read your mind!


Then it might be the transmision shaft bearing or Clutch!

[lflkajfj12123]

Does anyone have a way to diagnose if the transmission is causing the clunk?

[di-devol]

I was not aware you put on new axles nor that you have the same problem im not Cleo i cant read your mind!

Originally Posted by di-devol http://cdn1.zilvia.net/images/zilvia/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://zilvia.net/f/chat/409822-rear-end-clunk.html#post4268603)
I have the same problem, had it since I got this hatch. I even think I've posted on the older clunk thread. I too thought I fixed it but it came back.

I've replaced:
all suspension arms, hubs, axles, installed poly trans and motor mounts, installed dss steel driveshaft, replaced whole diff (open, welded, didn't matter), I have spl v01 solid subframe bushings, all other bushings are poly, removed the rear bumper support(just to check to see if it would stop clunking) removed sway bar, changed end-links, removed subframe multiple times looking for damage.
If you can't read minds, you can read lol.

Does anyone have a way to diagnose if the transmission is causing the clunk?Dunno, with out just replacing it.

[OHHSHH]

I have the same noises but only at a stop in first gear. ALL my suspension and bushing are all stock.

[lflkajfj12123]

Maybe I can hear the noise in the transmission if I disconnect the driveshaft and play with the clutch?

[di-devol]

If it is the transmission, I think the clunk is from play in the tail shaft, so with out the driveshaft there might not be enough load to make the noise. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try though.

I'm in Portland, so it's raining like hell, when it dries up I can try that too.

[lflkajfj12123]

Okay I fucked with this shit box some more.

Here is what I came up with...

Remove both axles still clunks
Remove driveshaft, thumping noise from trans area
Car off, driveshaft yoke in and rear disconnected, spin by hand and clunk
Noticed diff was touching some sheet metal that guards the gas tank, bent the up a bit so it wouldn't touch the diff... well it still clunked

So now I'm pretty much convinced its something with the transmission

some videos i took

before doing any work a simple video of the diff ujoint

n8kQmQEaMks

here's a video of the driveshaft disconnected and me playing with the clutch in second gear - you can sort of hear it if you ignore the squeeky clutch and exhaust noise

yN-4nORFZew

same as above - in cabin

RHZyUYnadnM

transmission yoke in, disconnected from diff, in 1st gear, rotating driveshaft by hand

1kWreyMbsSo

I guess what sold me on it being the transmission was it still did it with the axles disconnected

Also a side note, I have subframe risers and nismo mounts. The DSS driveshaft has much bigger u joints and the rear u joint was rubbing on the driverside ebrake bracket, so i cut that, and then it was still rubbing on the cable. I ended up just pulling the cable down so it didn't hit the u joint but its tucked along side the smooth side of the driveshaft. bummer but whatever couldn't really figure out a way to tuck it upwards as the gastank is above that clip so i couldn't drill for a new clip there


Cliff: Transmission / voo doo is culprit i think. Probably won't swap the transmission any time soon. Would rather just buy a SR and do it all at once. lol.

[di-devol]

Ya, I was talking about clunk 4 earlier, didn't know it did that with the diff disconnected though.

That's the same god dam sound I got.

[DS562]

Cliff: Transmission / voo doo is culprit i think. Probably won't swap the transmission any time soon. Would rather just buy a SR and do it all at once. lol.

have the SR blessed by a holyman before install. i've read this entire thread and it sounds like it was meant to clunk :hide:

[DenkiMan!]

im kinda having this same problem. i seem to hear it coming from my passenger side rear. i tried messing with the axles and i was close to buying some new ones, but there really isnt enough play for me to feel worried about it. they seem to be good.

ive got a welded and aftermarket subframe bushings (not sure of brand - on car when i bought it) ive also got a light weight flywheel and 6 puck clutch, stock pressure plate. clunks whenever the car has to jerk.

i guess i may just buy a passenger side axle and see if it does it then. its very annoying.

[joshls2]

hmmmmm.. you said you had the backlash set professionally? well, maybe he set it too loose/ to stock nissan spec. maybe there is too much clearance between the teeth for how stiff your drive line is. (hard rubber nismo mounts + aluminium subframe bushings + ....poly diff bushings?). theres not enough give.

so maybe u need less clearance to match the stiffer driveline wich has less give(cushion) than the stock rubber provides. that noise may be that initial "CANK" of all the teeth hitting at once as u engage.

idk, just throwing my thought out there. could be way off.

[lflkajfj12123]

^ two different diffs were installed and the same exact clunk was apparent

i hear what you're saying though but i think there is only 1-3 thousands tolerance when setting the backlash so say it were set to 3 and it needed to be at 1 for the sound to go away thats only 2 thousands difference which really is almost nothing

[KiLLeR2001]

Non-related, but judging by your exhaust movement you definitely need some new rubber or polyurethane exhaust hanger bushings.

[Renelovesnike]

Hmmmm i had a recent clunk in my rear end but would only happen on deceleration and some hard shifts! i replaced my subframe bushings with pbm solid bushings and it solved it RIGHT AWAY

when i droped my subframe the two front bushings literally where in two peices and straight rolled off/bounced away while droping the subframe.

if ur subframe bushings are shot and you still put slip on risers/collars its not gonna fix the clunk! id say change that since mine was significant clunk

pluss if its not that then youll have solid sub bushings and wont ever have to worry about that!! :D

pluss theres literaly no change in vibrations to me* still have full interior!

[di-devol]

We both have solid bushings.

[Renelovesnike]

We both have solid bushings.

Hmmm i wouldnt know then. hope ya figure it out :D

[lflkajfj12123]

Can anyone confirm if clunk 4 video is normal? unbolt back of driveshaft, put trans in gear and then spin the shaft back in forth by hand

want to see if anyone else has a similar sound

[chiboy002]

Is this what you're referring to?
No short shifter, feels loose / has that play in every gear. I always thought this is normal.

i dont know about the trans, if anything get a stethoscope and have someone sit in car and clutch in and out slowly... theyre like 10$ at walmart

as for the loose shifter, nate told me this great idea. the shifter has a snap ring that holds it in place. the snap ring allows lots of play in the shifter. he said to throw in a second one which pushes the shifter down more, removing some play.

paired up with a cusco solid bushing, i have no fucking play in the shifter

i've got an extra, i'll throw it your way if i see you at dd39

[kandyflip445]

That would be a bummer. Is there anyway to confirm the transmission is creating this clunking without swapping it out?

I have stock clutch and all that so its never been messed with.

@seek

Could be... but the CV boots are not torn or anything. Looks like new, from inspection I feel like it can't be the axles but I will be trying that next if no one comes up with anything on here.

Deleted cause I didn't finish reading the thread. /facepalm

[joshls2]

Non-related, but judging by your exhaust movement you definitely need some new rubber or polyurethane exhaust hanger bushings.

ah.. I see, yeah that makes sence.

lol, this issue seems to be kicking everyones asses so far, I wonder what the hell it could be..

[MidwestMyriad]

Swap 13b=no more clunk

[carmaniac1993]

Non-related, but judging by your exhaust movement you definitely need some new rubber or polyurethane exhaust hanger bushings.
hose clamps.

[ManoNegra]

how does the oil from the tranny looks?
you could take a sample and send it out to analyzed
it'll tell you if something is wearing badly
aside from the clunk, does the car drive well?

what clutch set up do you have in there?

from what I can gather from you vids
I would look at the clutch first
throwout bearing / pressure plate / fork / pivot
then at the transmission output shaft bearing

good luck

[Pacman]

I didn't rear all the replies cause its so long and I gotta move accross the country, lots of packing:

FYI, when the axle went out in my car, it was a clicking when accelerating. I put the car on the rack and ran it up to 40+mph. The inner joint was bad (as opposed to the outer joint like on FWD cars). It'll make the clicking noise as the wheel spins. When I pulled it and replaced it (junkyard piece, the right side axle is almost impossible to find for a replacement; Nissan wants $500+ for that). When removed, I found the inner joint of that axle feeling very gritty when moving the joint around. If that's not the problem, then it'll help someone else with a diagnostic.

[oOI WEST IOo]

your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out your syncros are out

[ILoveMyRHS13]

Hey, maybe your syncros are out.

[SoBay240guy]

apparently you dont know what syncros do, please shut up now,


You my friend have a bad bearing on the INPUT shaft (this is what ManoNegra meant BTW) or on the main cluster, if it is really as bad as that video tells me it is then you may have lost the pilot bushing too, either way you need a trans R&R.

I applaud your diligence

[Brian]

quit cars...

[Corbic]

Soap, is that a KA or SR you have?

[lflkajfj12123]

quit cars...

Thought about it..

Soap, is that a KA or SR you have?

STOCK KA24DE with stock clutch

[lflkajfj12123]

Found this on a search

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/68790-symptoms-bad-pilot-bushing-searched.html#post672591

[Corbic]

STOCK KA24DE with stock clutch

If you end up needing a trans, let me know. I have 3, your pick, no charge. You just have to pick it up in South Bend.

[ManoNegra]

Found this on a search

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/68790-symptoms-bad-pilot-bushing-searched.html#post672591

you see how bearings comes up early

think a couple of guys that have experience rebuilding KA/SR
transmissions might have mentioned this prior

[slider2828]

But does it ever make sense that with everything solid, the clunk sound inherently just gets louder? I mean I have the same sound with pbm risers, nismo tranny mount and drift freaq engine mounts.....

I also have a DSS and they really suck shit.... I took it to a drive line shop near my house. They said the DSS flopped around on their balancer totally like shit. They said because the U joints are regreaseable, there is play....

Maybe just take it to a balancer and have the driveshaft checked out. Its probably only 25 bux... see what they say.... But in the end it did help a lot..... Also single piece the drive angle between the tranny and the diff may cause some premature wear on the driveshaft.... I had my DSS shaft for like 6 months....

Just saying.... short of removing the tranny.....

[lflkajfj12123]

I just put the DSS ds in on friday. My oem driveshaft was minty. I did notice quite a bit more vibration and humming from the 1 piece. I know a shop that makes driveshafts so I'll have to have him check it out I guess. Spent 400 bucks on the fucker.

[lflkajfj12123]

If you end up needing a trans, let me know. I have 3, your pick, no charge. You just have to pick it up in South Bend.

South bend is like 30-40 minutes from me! I will have to take you up on this, I'll let you know later this week when I'm not busy. Thanks man

[Brian]

Best luck.

Cars are really tough.

[slider2828]

I just put the DSS ds in on friday. My oem driveshaft was minty. I did notice quite a bit more vibration and humming from the 1 piece. I know a shop that makes driveshafts so I'll have to have him check it out I guess. Spent 400 bucks on the fucker.

I totally am with you on this man... I love a smooth running car and its like a monkey on your back beating on your head when its clunking and stuff... I totally understand where you are coming from....

Also if shimming the nose of the diff helps by putting a washer or 2 in front of the nose.... The reason why nissan put a 2 piece drive shaft with a center bearing is TO compensate for drive angle between the tranny and the diff movement during accel and decel. So like the nose is pointing up while the tranny is pointing down.

[di-devol]

When I first got my DSS steel installed, it had hella vibration. I got them on the phone and they said to flip the end on the diff 180° and re-bolt it.

lol, believe it or not, it actually stopped the vibration.

[ManoNegra]

When I first got my DSS steel installed, it had hella vibration. I got them on the phone and they said to flip the end on the diff 180° and re-bolt it.

lol, believe it or not, it actually stopped the vibration.

or you could have read the FSM
as it's mentioned there

out of balance driveshaft would cause vibration
that gets worse at speed not clunking
that's been shown to be there even when shaft is disconnected

don't blame Soap for trying everything else first though
replacing/rebuilding the tranny would also be at the bottom of my list

[di-devol]

I was replying to slider2828, I wasn't implying that the ds had anything to do with the clunking.

[SoBay240guy]

or you could have read the FSM
as it's mentioned there

out of balance driveshaft would cause vibration
that gets worse at speed not clunking
that's been shown to be there even when shaft is disconnected

don't blame Soap for trying everything else first though
replacing/rebuilding the tranny would also be at the bottom of my list


At this point I'm just wondering why the people that pointed out what's actually wrong with the tranny are the only one's who haven't been responded to, they also seem to be the only people that read the thread before throwing in their heaping helping of IDK but i want more post count, no wonder Zilvia has 56,789,987 threads and 13 working cars, you ignore answers so you can talk about how dirt tastes

are you old enough to drive ?

[slider2828]

or you could have read the FSM
as it's mentioned there

out of balance driveshaft would cause vibration
that gets worse at speed not clunking
that's been shown to be there even when shaft is disconnected

don't blame Soap for trying everything else first though
replacing/rebuilding the tranny would also be at the bottom of my list

Yeah that is true though....

[lflkajfj12123]

At this point I'm just wondering why the people that pointed out what's actually wrong with the tranny are the only one's who haven't been responded to, they also seem to be the only people that read the thread before throwing in their heaping helping of IDK but i want more post count, no wonder Zilvia has 56,789,987 threads and 13 working cars, you ignore answers so you can talk about how dirt tastes

are you old enough to drive ?

Not sure if you are referring to me but I took your post with most importance. Sorry I didn't reply to you directly I've been fairly busy amongst trying to fix this car.

I did that search on the pilot bearing and thrust bearing and I came up with that thread I posted earlier talking about a clunk.

I mean when I search about a bad thrust/shaft bearing I have rarely found people having a clunking but more a vibration of sorts. So I was happy to see that yes the bearing could cause a clunk while still being operational.

I've come to the conclusion that yes it probably is the transmission, hopefully picking one up off corbic soon.

In the midst of all this I think I found a separate clunk (more like a thud) that is coming from the driver side rear well. Happens on the on off play of the throttle and some times braking or over a bump. Might just be my coilover of ball joint I think... its no where near as bothersome as the main clunk that feels like a grenade going off in the drivetrain.

Another thing, the DSS driveshaft is currently eating through my e-brake cable. I had to cut the clip that hold the lines up above the rear ujoint because the ujoints were hitting the clip. I cut that clip and then the driveside cable is hanging down now and rubbing on the driveshaft. Its probably causing lots of damage. lol. My ebrake is really tight now, possibly because I pulled the cable down past the driveshaft so the ujoints wouldn't hit it (so there is a good amount of tension on it). Just another thing that I have to address some how ~_~. It's not exactly the driveshafts fault though because I do have the subframe risers and nismo mounts.

(sorry this post is hard to read, posted from my phone)

[n8RPS13]

At this point I'm just wondering why the people that pointed out what's actually wrong with the tranny are the only one's who haven't been responded to, they also seem to be the only people that read the thread before throwing in their heaping helping of IDK but i want more post count, no wonder Zilvia has 56,789,987 threads and 13 working cars, you ignore answers so you can talk about how dirt tastes

are you old enough to drive ?

Who are you talking about ManoNegra, sOap, or GenPop? Or are you just making a generalized statment?

Anyhow I dont really have anything to suggest that hasnt already been said. Good luck diagnosing this sOap.

[joefresh]

soap did you fix your car yet?

i went to put a new gas tank in today and moved the car on the lift.
heard the clunk =/

wheels on the ground, car in second gear, engaging the clutch you can hear the noise. on my car the noise is coming from the output shafts on the differential. they move forward a good amount before they engage, so maybe the bearings are bad?

doesnt your car only have 70k> or something? i doubt its the trans mine has 230k of abuse aand kinda grinds on hard 3rd gear shifts but i think its just the brass fitting in there. aight peace

[project_silvia]

sounds like your output shaft is going out

[lg54]

im having sort off a similar clunk. I guess mine is becuase of the welded diff or tranny driveshaft and diff are to close and squished together.:picardfp:

ill try recording a vid.

[lflkajfj12123]

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/333/photomd.jpg

does this scoring on the tip of the teeth look fucked up.. or is that normal wear?

what would cause that? found this... http://www.exedy-aftermarket.com/english/default/clutch/index/id/03-01/# (click damaged thrust bearing)



picked up a trans off corbic and got mine out today (worst thing to do ever)

contemplating if i should order a new clutch or not before i go swapping to another transmission

anyone have a clue how to inspect the trans without tearing it apart?

also i could move the flywheel (pilot) bearing in the center in and out with my finger... is that normal? (sorry i don't know how to work on cars)

[blackghost13]

my friend had that same clunk with his car. it ended up being his trany and now its fine

[lflkajfj12123]

yeah the transmission started making a loud whining noise in gear this week

i think its the input shaft bearing because the noise goes away when you push the clutch to the floor

anyone confirm that?

i'm going to attempt to tear the transmission out and inspect the bearings

[[email protected]]

holy fuck! ahahah. can you really move the pilot bearing that easily? mine was a bitch to take out. replace that asap and that should take care of the whining sound. as for the clunk, i have no idea but could be the trans.

[KiLLeR2001]

The pilot bearing should not move around with your finger. Remove it and install a new one.

yeah the transmission started making a loud whining noise in gear this week

i think its the input shaft bearing because the noise goes away when you push the clutch to the floor

anyone confirm that?

i'm going to attempt to tear the transmission out and inspect the bearings

My transmission makes the same noise, and I have narrowed it down to the input shaft bearings. Eventually when the transmission starts to act up I'll be looking at a rebuild.

[az_240]

[IMG]

anyone have a clue how to inspect the trans without tearing it apart?

also i could move the flywheel (pilot) bearing in the center in and out with my finger... is that normal? (sorry i don't know how to work on cars)

Try moving the input shaft around... there should be very little play if any. You can try putting the trans in each gear and spin the input shaft to check for unusual noises/play.

The 5-speed pilot bearing should slide right in but there should be no play once it's in there. This keeps the input shaft centered.

Bad input shaft bearing normally makes a whining noise while in gear that goes away when the clutch is pressed.

[lflkajfj12123]

I put my finger into the center of the pilot bearing with the clutch still on and i could move it in and out by pulling on it with my finger, atleast i think thats what was moving.

the transmission is out so i'll just tear it down i think the isb is relatively easy to get to from some research i did

[lflkajfj12123]

Transmission bearing failures and causes explained - Honda-Tech (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2051578)

thought this article was really good at explaining the transmissions bearings function

if the pilot bearing really is bad it would explain why the isb is fucked too

[lflkajfj12123]

is this normal?

spinning the input shaft bearing and this large play in the input shaft

e7CcgYX2KwQ

[[email protected]]

holy shat! i don't think thats normal. it actually sounds like the noise you're car was making

[Zenki_516]

I'm definitely no expert, but that doesn't seem like its supposed to be doing that.

[future]

That sounds like my sound. But I swear mine comes from my diff

When your in your car driving where did it sound like it was coming from? Cause I'd much rather change a diff then trans haha
I'm hoping we have two different problems.

What's up with the guy with free trans? Can I get the hook up too? I want my clunk to go away ):

[lflkajfj12123]

its strange because the input shaft only moves on that side (bellhousing side) and the mainsshaft appears to do nothing on the other side

[MidwestMyriad]

It sounded like it was coming from the back. Then we replaced diff, then driveshaft, noise still there. Today when we got the trans apart, this was the one thing that seemed "off" to us. When I spun the bearing in the video it felt like it had a minor bind, but the shaft sliding like that it was didn't seem right. If this is the problem, the noise was probably just heard through the drivetrain at the rear.

If someone REALLY knows transmissions, is this normal?

[future]

I've taken apart trans and rebuilt a couple. It should not move like that. That's not normal at all

So then you changed the diff and noise didn't change? I swear mine is my diff. That's where it sounds like it's commit from. But I can't feel my gears movig back in forth through my shifter. Like you guys posted in the video.

I know this is prob. Weird but would you guys be down to meet up and help with my clunk? I want to see if we have the same sounds. Pm me?

[lflkajfj12123]

we live in chicago

thanks for the heads up though

i know the input shaft is separate from the mainshaft but i didn't think that should move in and out like that (even though when the bearing is pressed into the bellhousing it would prevent it from moving that much)

[future]

This whole time I thought you guys were all local lol, fml

[lflkajfj12123]

haha its all good man

i really hope this fixes everything

going to replace the clutch and flywheel while i'm at it

might tear apart another trans i have to see the difference in play

[kyles1988]

That sounds like the same sound, just not amplified. Good luck dudebro

[lflkajfj12123]

thanks man i just want to drive my car :(

anyone else got info on whats broken with my trans lol

[illvialuver]

My friend alex had this same exact problem when he was at the track, and he thought it was a diff problem or some shit like that. It turned out the teeth in the spindle were damaged and were causing play in the axles.

My other guess would be the drive shaft bushing. Just google the words drive shaft bushing and you will see what i am talking about, I dont want to post links to nico club, because that is where the pics are at.

[lflkajfj12123]

its not the axles or the driveshaft i've already addressed that but thanks

[DestroyedIndustries]

Same issue here. Filled up with gas and noticed my fuel filler "housing" where the fuel pipe meets the body was not attached. It rattled during those exact instances you described and could always be heard behind me and to my right while driving. Simple fix for me. You? Who knows...could be worth a look.

[carmaniac1993]

^ i just noticed this on my car yesterday! not completely unattached but it had play lol.
ive also got this clunking noise. i just thought it was damage from having a welded diff for 2 years.

[CamryOnBronze]

Good luck broski, wish I could help you out. Hope you guys still make it down to Tob's to chill next weekend!

[SoBay240guy]

Ummm...I wish people that didn't know wouldn't speak up,

That play in the input shaft to main shaft is 100% expected and normal in any and all fs5w71 trans.

spinning the bearings doesn't tell us aloy about their condition unless they are damaged by broken races or too tight or are scored, if it is simpy worn out you would be better off trying to twist the bearing fore and aft to see how much play there is between races and ball bearings if that makes sense...

at this point as you have noted, just rebuild and reinstall trans...new pilot bushing obviously, new clutch and PP can't hurt while you're in there, and then you know all is good.

[lflkajfj12123]

god damnit :bash:

[ManoNegra]

what about that tranny you just picked up?
ride on that for a bit while you rebuild this one
swap bellhouses and speed sensors if the new one is from an s13

[Corbic]

what about that tranny you just picked up?
ride on that for a bit while you rebuild this one
swap bellhouses and speed sensors if the new one is from an s13

Wait, wha? All DE motors use the same bellhousing. Also you can't "swap" bellhousing, not the GM way.

[ManoNegra]

CPS sensor is on the s14 bellhouse
you'll throw the cell if your leave it unplugged

would work if Max doesn't care about the cell

ps - bellhouses are swappable, been common knowledge for many years. It's what allows you to use a KA transmission on an SR.

[lflkajfj12123]

well that was the plan to swap transmissions anyways and replace the clutch

but i took mine apart to see what was wrong with it

besides the input shaft bearing hanging a little bit i can't find anything else

so the point is if its not the trans then i could end up with the same problem putting in the other trans

frustrating

also i have a 95 s14 (OBDI) not sure if that matters for the sensor biz

i just have to hope it was something with the clutch causing this

[ManoNegra]

- check condition of pilot bearing (Nismo offers a roller type bearing, worth looking into)
- check condition of throwout bearing, pivot, fork, slave
- there's also a bearing in the mid section of the tranny that could be the culprit
- all s14 5 speed transmissions are alike (speed and cps sensors)

[lflkajfj12123]

i am pretty sure the pilot bearing is bad

i could move it in and out with my finger but i haven't taken the clutch off yet to fully inspect

pilot bearing and fork were fine

i did see that mid section bearing (looked impossible to get to)

does act offer the roller type bearing with their clutch kits?

[ManoNegra]

I've only seen it offered through the dealer as a Nismo part.

edit:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/240sx/product_info.php?cPath=&products_id=1893

[lflkajfj12123]

editeditedit

[SnakeKack]

About a year ago I had a clunk from my rear sub frame because the bushings were shot and one of the corners were slapping the bottom of the car when I accelerated and decelerated. So I put in ES Poly sub frame bushings and it fixed that issue but then I noticed a clunk/click/clack noise coming from the back similar to yours whenever I started to move from a stop either going forward or backward, or sometimes shifting into second or slowing down and picking up speed etc...I figured it was a noise I must not have noticed while my sub frame was slapping around and thought it to be the pinion shaft or one of the axles and said fuck it I'll replace it when it gets worse.

Well last week I converted my rear brakes to the Z32 setup including e-brake assembly. Ever since then it went away. I don't know why, or how but it's gone. I know I banged the ends of the axles pretty decently to slide them through the knuckle at one point and I wonder if I fixed something by accident. I didn't remove the axles from the diff or anything, just loosened everything holding the knuckle on there and tapped it through.

I don't know if this will help you or not but it seems so similar to my issue that I had, I hope my experience can solve your mystery.

[lflkajfj12123]

thanks but i disconnected the axles all together and it still clunked so

[lflkajfj12123]

edit: nvm got it handled

[bladetech8]

So what was it in the end S0ap? The transmission or pilot bearing?

[lflkajfj12123]

I believe the bad pilot bearing made my input shaft bearing go bad

SO... I'm fixing the transmission and getting a clutch kit

all of which I have no idea if it will make the clunk go away but its the last thing in the drivetrain

[n8RPS13]

Good luck bro! Really impressed with your tonacity and stuborness to fix this! Dedicated S chassis enthusiast here!

[lflkajfj12123]

^thanks man you have no idea how many times i've wanted to quit lol

zombie hybrid trans

s13 internals + s13 shift fork inside s14 bellhousing and tailshaft

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/2933/photo1jxg.jpg

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1913/photo2sb.jpg

[Corbic]

Holly Crap!

Don't loose faith man!

[kyles1988]

Gecha some soap!

Looking forward to hanging out with you and that punk Tony this weekend. Hope this thing is good to go by then.

[SoBay240guy]

Holly Crap!

Don't loose faith man!


it would be easier if people weren't giving him bad info...

and holy has one L

[lflkajfj12123]

and if i didn't suck at working on cars. lol

[Corbic]

it would be easier if people weren't giving him bad info...

and holy has one L

And what bad info did I give him asshole?

[SoBay240guy]

Wait, wha? All DE motors use the same bellhousing. Also you can't "swap" bellhousing, not the GM way.


durrrrrrrr


s14's have a Crank Position Sensor in the bell housing,

if the OP had been limited by your "information" he would be as fucked as you.

[Corbic]

durrrrrrrr


s14's have a Crank Position Sensor in the bell housing,

if the OP had been limited by your "information" he would be as fucked as you.

Are you fucking joking, just fucking drill that shit out. You don't even need the CPS.

[SoBay240guy]

yet again more "i dont know what i'm talking about," obviously you never tried that, obviously you don't care if your car doesn't function according to factory spec...fine whatever CEL's aren't preferred by most people...

[Corbic]

yet again more "i dont know what i'm talking about," obviously you never tried that, obviously you don't care if your car doesn't function according to factory spec...fine whatever CEL's aren't preferred by most people...

Are you done now?

[EhrikETFG]

broooooooooooooooooooooos.

soap, progress?

[SoBay240guy]

are you?

if you didn't notice the diagnosis i gave the OP was exactly what he settled on...that was my first post in the thread, if you'd keep your BS lack-o-info out of otherwise helpful threads...i'd be done pointing it out, otherwise people could read your shit and not realize it is exactly that...

[n8RPS13]

and we call that a BURN!!!!!

[Zero-Offset]

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[lflkajfj12123]

update...

pretty sure the clunking is gone now still have a few other things to address before I can confirm it but yeah (haven't driven it on ground yet)

swapped internals from another transmission and a new clutch kit

i am almost positive the noise came from one of the bearings or pilot bushing being bad

[Brian]

WOW that sounds like a LOT of work.
Sounds like a total tear down!

[di-devol]

update...

pretty sure the clunking is gone now still have a few other things to address before I can confirm it but yeah (haven't driven it on ground yet)

swapped internals from another transmission and a new clutch kit

i am almost positive the noise came from one of the bearings or pilot bushing being bad

Man, no fair. I've been dealing with the same clunk to no avail. I've given up and I am learning to deal with the noise ahah. Hope you got it man.

[ManoNegra]

update...

pretty sure the clunking is gone now still have a few other things to address before I can confirm it but yeah (haven't driven it on ground yet)

swapped internals from another transmission and a new clutch kit

i am almost positive the noise came from one of the bearings or pilot bushing being bad

props
so what now? Cast driftwork knuckles? Shark eyes? Paint? E-glory???
where's the build thread Max?

[lflkajfj12123]

update #2

still clunks

fuck the wolrd

e-glory forever postponed

[ManoNegra]

Did you have the spare trans rebuit?
changed pilot bushing? Nismo?

Having been at the receiving end of phantom trans issues in the past
I think it's best to just overhaul a trans and start fresh
just about all of these 'good condition' used transmissions have seen a couple of hundred k miles
and it is just a matter of time

good luck with it Max

[icedsole]

buy an aero kit, it will probably go away

[Matej]

Whoa friend, you are still dealing with this?

Maybe the crank on your motor is off-center and causing the entire drivetrain to spin out of control and start clunking. Or something.
Also, the Nismo pilot bearing is really weak. Mine broke immediately.

Buy an SR swap and start fresh. They are kind of cool.

[KiLLeR2001]

Rebuild the transmission completely.

If that doesn't solve the problem, throw the KA off a cliff and buy an SR and use the freshly rebuilt transmission.

[lflkajfj12123]

Did you have the spare trans rebuit?
changed pilot bushing? Nismo?

Having been at the receiving end of phantom trans issues in the past
I think it's best to just overhaul a trans and start fresh
just about all of these 'good condition' used transmissions have seen a couple of hundred k miles
and it is just a matter of time

good luck with it Max

Not rebuilt but I inspected all the bearings before putting it back in... I don't think transmission was the issue at all anymore. Thanks man

buy an aero kit, it will probably go away

a man can dream

Whoa friend, you are still dealing with this?

Maybe the crank on your motor is off-center and causing the entire drivetrain to spin out of control and start clunking. Or something.
Also, the Nismo pilot bearing is really weak. Mine broke immediately.

Buy an SR swap and start fresh. They are kind of cool.

I used an OEM pilot bushing. Replaced the clutch and throw-out bearing with an Exedy kit. (always use OEM throw-out bearing exedy joint is loud)


Rebuild the transmission completely.

If that doesn't solve the problem, throw the KA off a cliff and buy an SR and use the freshly rebuilt transmission.

I wish buying an SR would make this headache go away. I thought about it in desperation but I would face-palm so hard after spending the money to find it still clunks.

I have a feeling I need to start back at the beginning and inspect every part over again. I noticed that sometimes under hard braking I hear it clunk from the rear driver side wheel well. Its strange because the car still clunked when I disconnected the axles and at that point I crossed out the possibility of hubs or axles or suspension components creating the noise. Or even the diff or subframe is moving and hitting the chassis maybe due to subframe risers... I had the issue on my last s-chassis with subframe risers.

I daily this hunk of shit around now and it clunks worse than ever. If only cars were just wheels body kit and paint I would die and goto heaven lol. Any mechanical wise guys have a suggestion to something I could have overlooked?

[KiLLeR2001]

Get SR, if it still does it take SR out and send the shell off of a cliff. Buy new shell. Swap in SR. Problem solved.

Captain Hindsight AWAY!!!!!!!

[lflkajfj12123]

My last S13 and this S14 both have been extremely mint (before I molested them) with under 70xxx miles and 1 previous owner. That's my only grief about buying a new chassis.

[KiLLeR2001]

I'm telling you its KA related. My friends KA does the same, never solved the problem, he has since learned to live with it.

[1on1]

soap, can you post a video of the sound again so we can get a refresh.

[merks]

My s14 clunked because the diff bushing went bad(j30 diff with non abs driveshaft), replaced them with spl solids. Car still clunked but not as bad. The clunking ended up fucking up my trans, one of the main bearings went bad. My clunking went away once I got a one piece abs driveshaft

[Trap Star]

Have you tried looking behind interior panels and shit? Maybe something is hiding behind one and shifting around. Seems like every other possibility has been brought up.

[bova17]

^ thats what always happens to me cause all my shit slides around

[Xplat]

Worth looking at. I have a clunk in my rear somewhere right after I swapped out the open diff with an S15 HLSD reusing my same ring gear. Timing to tear shit down again. -_-

The dreaded "diff" CLUNK - HybridZ (http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105207-the-dreaded-diff-clunk/)

[Fruitbooter]

Came across this thread as ive got the same problem on my S15.

Clunk when I let off acc / press down on acc sometimes. Clunck when pulling off in first. Clunk when shifting from 1st to 2nd.

The sound is deffinitly at the back and I can hear a more metalic clunk from the passenger side rear wheel sometimes.

I did this to mine last year-

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x250/Mindgame06/IMG_7623.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x250/Mindgame06/IMG_7826.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x250/Mindgame06/IMG_8010.jpg

Whilw getting rid of rust and undersealing I fitted ES bushes to everything at the rear, subframe, diff, all control arms. I expected more NVH after fitting so for a long time Ive just ignored the clunks. Now though I know that there is a difference between an increase in NVH and a clunk that shouldnt be there!

Im going to strip down the rear again when I get chance and replace the wheel bearings, ball joints and also upgrade my brakes so will check everything else while im under there.

Im not gonna worry about it too much though, if something fails then I will know what the problem is an replace it.

[Renelovesnike]

This is easy! its the two front buhings on the subframe!!! if you drop the subframe you will see that the two front "closet to the driveshaft and farther from exhaust oval" arent even one with the outer part of the bushing that makes contact with the subframe!

i know if you have raisers this does not fix the problem since a fucked bushing is still a fucked bushing!

i went with PBM solid bushings and this fixed it right away!

also i had the same simptons as above "clunk on 1st/2nd and foot off accelerator" the solid bushings fixed all this imedietly!

and there perfect for daily!! ppl talk about vibrations or w/e there just pussies!

CORRECTION SUBFRAME BUSHINGS!! lol i wassent thinking!! x)

[MidwestMyriad]

Front diff bushings have been replaced breh

[lflkajfj12123]

had a s13 diff in there for a while and now have s14 diff with solid bushings

[Renelovesnike]

Front diff bushings have been replaced breh

had a s13 diff in there for a while and now have s14 diff with solid bushings

Haha sorry guys i meant subframe bushings!!! idk what i was thinking! =]

when i droped my subframe both fron bushings just rolled away on the floor and it was a dead giveaway they werent even connecting the sub to the frame.

hope this helps guys!

[di-devol]

I have the same clunk, SPL solid subframe bushings...

I believe Soap has solids as well.


I gave up though.

[Lynk444]

I have a very similar clunk in my 1993 s13 coupe with stock KA, Exedy clutch light weight flywheel. It is a factory 5speed too. I notice it more in first and second. I also noticed that if I actually shift gears and make sure I don't give any gas when engaging the clutch in another gear it doesn't clunk. If I also ease the clutch out it won't clunk. I was thinking it was the transmission but I'm not so sure. You went down that road and I read every post on this forum to see if I could help. I'm wondering if you're shocking the all of the drivetrain lash in the transmission, clutch, driveshaft, axles, diff. Everything. All of that stuff stacks up. I put the stock driveshaft back in to see if it helps and it does with the rubber guibo and center support bearing.

Have you checked the thrust clearance of the engine. That means the forward and backwards (front to rear of the car) of the crankshaft? If the thrust bearings on the crank shaft are worn you can get noise with clutch engagement.

I still wouldn't rule out the transmission because you never had it rebuilt you just swapped the guts out of an s13 trans.

Good luck with it, don't lose faith. True conversation with my wife:

"Why does you car do that?" She said.

"Because my car is like you, a fickle bitch at times. She still needs loving though and I plan on keeping her for life. So deal with it."

[lflkajfj12123]

Going to look for cracks in the subframe today... I didn't see any before but they could be hiding up top

[kojiki88]

I have that same clunk when coming out in first and shifting to second. oh and going in reverse. I do know it started after doing the J30 Diff swap, I swapped the pumpkin and axles. Maybe it has something to do with the drive shaft?? HMM

[ghoti]

I have that same clunk when coming out in first and shifting to second. oh and going in reverse. I do know it started after doing the J30 Diff swap, I swapped the pumpkin and axles. Maybe it has something to do with the drive shaft?? HMM

I had the same thing when I had a Non-abs driveshaft. Just get the correct driveshaft.

[kojiki88]

I had the same thing when I had a Non-abs driveshaft. Just get the correct driveshaft.

So If I got an abs one piece drive shaft that problem would be solved?

[ManoNegra]

So If I got an abs one piece drive shaft that problem would be solved?

Not necessarily
lets think for a minute, why two piece driveshafts from the factory?
answer: to absorb shock and vibration for secretary daily driving bliss

Max, check the condition of the carrier bearing if you're still on the stock driveshaft
make sure there's not slop or noise in the bearing
if you have a one piece one make sure that you have ~3/4" of clearance
I bought (used) a one piece for an s14 that was too tight and gave me problems. Took it to the shaft to get re-sized and other that the vibrations and noises from solid stuff in the back, it hasn't been a problem.

[jdo180]

"Max, check the condition of the carrier bearing if you're still on the stock driveshaft
make sure there's not slop or noise in the bearing
if you have a one piece one make sure that you have ~3/4" of clearance
I bought (used) a one piece for an s14 that was too tight and gave me problems. Took it to the shaft to get re-sized and other that the vibrations and noises from solid stuff in the back, it hasn't been a problem. "

bingo ..
iv been dealing with the same issue for a hot minute on my newest s13..
Found that there was enough movement in between the trans/motor/and sub frame that my one piece dss shaft was hitting the inside of the trans. Have never heard that 3/4" but my shit is way tighter than that..I have pinpointed the issue after much headache and using a stethoscope...
going to get it re sized soon..with all the different motor mount on the market some seem to seat the motor alil higher and back toward the firewall a vary small amount and not to mention that sr and ka trans are alil different in size too. Add that with DSS cutting these shafts to fit ka and sr..
But after reading this whole forum that my 2cents based on my issues with my car,, hope this helps alil..

[Nizzan4u2nv]

Video no longer works but I recently came across a mysterious rear clunk from a buddies s14. The subframe has what looks like vibration dampener weights suspended by rubber. The rubber broke and the weight started clunking against the subframe. Pretty random but its worth looking at.

[CamryOnBronze]

things i have done to try and diagnose it / mods to the car

solid subframe bushings (psm risers)
nismo motor mounts and trans mount
full spl arms (professionally installed and aligned)
swapped whole pumpkin to a s13 good pumpkin with a tomei 2 way that had no issues (lash was set perfect on both diffs)
1 piece dss aluminum driveshaft
the rear bumper support is solid tight
nothing in the trunk or anything like that
coilover tophats are tight as
coilovers are not leaking and i don't suspect them to be blown at all
the subframe has NO visual cracks on the bottom and i cannot feel any on the top of it
every nut and bolt is tight
balljoints seem superb (CAR ONLY HAS 70K MILES)

crossing out the driveshaft and diff leads me to believe its the axles but it they are in perfect condition. no tears to the boots. when i try and move them with my hands i can't create any play they seem fine... but this is the next thing i'm going to try replacing anyway



From the first post- good reminder to show a lot of the things that he has already tried.

[eds13]

Ive had several that have the same clunk. if subframe bushings dont fix it, i just install a Sub. a nice 12" with 400watts or so "should" fix your issues.

haha but really tho, i'd love to know what the issue is as well. keep at it soap, your a effin champ!

[Xplat]

from what i've read even mustangs, camaro's, trucks blah blah, USDM cars with diffs get this clunk, and no one can seem to pin point what the root cause is.

For some people replacing the tranny mount has been a help, random bushings in the subframe, for z's their diff has a mustache bar with rubber bushings that can go bad so the front of the diff can raise up and hit the bottom of the car when the bushings go,

- slip yoke greasing, some have even drilled and tapped their driveshaft with a zerk fitting to grease the slip yoke

complete replacement of rear end that doesn't clunk until it eventually starts clunking again

Some new vehicles straight out of the lot (trucks with non open diffs) have had this clunk sound when they get on the gas at low speeds.

Seems to be a universal problem, and a huge pain in the butt simply because it's a bastard to find the source.

Some people even claimed it was their transmission and they could have sworn it was coming from their rear end, shit's cray

[Kern240sx]

I'm actually having the same problem. I've changed the subframe bushings with energy suspensions polyurethane ones. I've changed the differential 2 times with a new set of stance bushings. Put energy suspension bushings in all of the arms and also changed the transmission. I put a one piece abs drive shaft in too. I have a set of Bc racing coilovers. I don't have a sway bar so I know it's not it. The mounts for the tranny and motor has nismo mounts. New clutch flywheel an all the goodies. Gutted trunk with nothing in the wells, bumper support tight. It fells like the rear end is loose and about to fall apart. Every shift foot on an of the gas. Anythin that shocks the drivetrain it clunks. I need help I've tried everything I know to try with very little success.

[Corbic]

This issue has still not been fixed?

[Kern240sx]

I've searched every forum I can to try to find a solution and still havnt found one

[Tempo]

I now have this problem, After i replaced my diff bushings with SPL solids, and PBM subframe risers, + a welded diff doesnt help reduce the noise, when i went to parts shop max and talked to martin about the noise while i was there for some other services he said that the noise is normal metal on metal, no surprise there though just curiosity. I just ignore the sounds, un comforting for passengers though since they aren't used to this and the jerky feel of a welded diff lol.

[Corbic]

I now have this problem, After i replaced my diff bushings with SPL solids, and PBM subframe risers, + a welded diff doesnt help reduce the noise, when i went to parts shop max and talked to martin about the noise while i was there for some other services he said that the noise is normal metal on metal, no surprise there though just curiosity. I just ignore the sounds, un comforting for passengers though since they aren't used to this and the jerky feel of a welded diff lol.

It's not normal.

[Corbic]

...could the whole subframe be sliding up and down the PBM bushings?

[Kern240sx]

Yea I can deffinatly tell its not normal it moves around that's not normal and mine is all polyurethane other than my diff bushings

[pacotaco345]

It's not normal.

With solid risers the transfer of gear noise from the diff to the cabin is normal. And with a welded the clunking chunking noise is normal also..

[Kern240sx]

Well considering I have poly bushings and a LSD that'a not normal

[Corbic]

With solid risers the transfer of gear noise from the diff to the cabin is normal. And with a welded the clunking chunking noise is normal also..

But Soap does not have a Welded.

[Kern240sx]

I did a couple of videos of mine and I can tell you it's from the passenger rear side of the suspension but I can't tell where it's coming from after that

[Lukasss]

I have an open differential, and PSM solid risers.
Reverse makes a dull popping from the rear, first does it less noticeable, and second does it faintly.

[Perfect Balance]

Just thought of this. See if any of your friends (especially mechanics) have a set of chassis ears. Basically they are small microphones that you clip onto your car in various places and drive around listening through a set of headphones and moving the clips around until you pinpoint what the noise is coming from.

As long as you can consistently re-create the noise, you should have it figured out in no time with those things. I use them at work whenever we can't figure out a noise.

[Tempo]

But Soap does not have a Welded.

ahh, mine seems normal, though I did watch s0ap's video a long time ago I can't seem to remember how the noises sounded in it.

[Corbic]

I have an open differential, and PSM solid risers.
Reverse makes a dull popping from the rear, first does it less noticeable, and second does it faintly.

Then we have a winner.

Mine recently stared banging in reverse. I'm wondering if my glue finally let loose on the subframe rises. The frame must be able to shift up and down since PBM mounts don't have tops.

I'll have to investigate.

[stylo1]

I had this same noise, swapped Diffs (welded) it stopped for like 5 minutes then came back. I give no shits now, Everything in my rear end is solid, there has to be some give, It is Mostly in the cv axels(new ones even) and i have a fat 29mm swaybar, Its annoying but if u built a car with solid everything it is gonna happen. U built a track car, its gonna sound like a track car. switch your solid bushings to polyurethane.

[Corbic]

I had this same noise, swapped Diffs (welded) it stopped for like 5 minutes then came back. I give no shits now, Everything in my rear end is solid, there has to be some give, It is Mostly in the cv axels(new ones even) and i have a fat 29mm swaybar, Its annoying but if u built a car with solid everything it is gonna happen. U built a track car, its gonna sound like a track car. switch your solid bushings to polyurethane.

So let me get this straight, you replaced everything with "solid" to reduce movement and now have so much movement that something actually "bangs" around.... and you think this is normal, cuz race car?

[Kern240sx]

That's the thing I'm saying its not normal there's no way. Why don't those drift cars that are sponsored make that noise and I'm sure everything is solid. You don't here the slightest clunk when shifting

[Corbic]

That's the thing I'm saying its not normal there's no way. Why don't those drift cars that are sponsored make that noise and I'm sure everything is solid. You don't here the slightest clunk when shifting

Ding Ding Ding - Winner.

[lflkajfj12123]

Bros... I will be installing rear Z brakes this weekend and plan on dropping the whole rear end to investigate this issue some more.

Things I suspect...

Crack in the frame where the subframe stud is allowing movement
Cracked subframe
Axles ? (not likely since I disconnected them and was still able to produce a clunk)

Its not the riser that creates the issue because the car didn't do this for quite a while until the car spun violently up a hill at drift day. Also, the clunk is more of an oscillation compared to the usual extra loudness that solid bushings adds. The clunk can be felt more than it is heard even though it is loud. If you drove my car you'd understand there is something moving in the drivetrain that shouldn't be... I'll try to throw up some more videos before tearing into it again.

[Matej]

Your crankshaft is out of balance.

[Kern240sx]

Um get that outta here mine has a built motor balanced and everything and I want to know how the hell it could do it to the drivetrain and not rattle your teeth out at high rpms

[lflkajfj12123]

Lol he's just bragging that he has a SR now and I don't :)

[terrence]

Set your car on fire, fixes a lot of issues.

[Kern240sx]

Soap did you find anything this weekend ?

[Matej]

Lol he's just bragging that he has a SR now and I don't :)
But seriously. :)
If you did not find anything wrong with the subframe, I would venture to guess that it originates somewhere in the motor (possibly the flywheel/rear seal/pilot bushing area), and the noise and vibration just happen to be transferred and amplified through the drivetrain.

[lflkajfj12123]

Matej, I replaced the clutch and entire transmission the last time I tried to solve this problem. Replaced the throw out bearing and pilot bushing too. The flywheel was also on there solid. :(

This weekend I thought I had 100% found the problem... but I was wrong and it still clunks lol

http://driftwolrd.com/up/sbframewtf.JPG

Here is what happened when I dropped the subframe lol the slip fit risers completely fell out due to NOT being epoxy'd like they should. A local well known "reputable" shop installed these last year and really fucked me haha along with a bunch of other bullshit I wasn't happy with... SO I was super stoked to put the subframe back with the epoxy in only to hear it clunk immediately lol

the parts on the car that have been replaced right now...

full spl arms
exedy clutch and throw out bearing
oem pilot pushing
z32 rear brakes
hubs spin perfect
welded diff with 4.3 ring and pinion
(for the record when i swapped the entire pumpkin with a tomei unit it still did the same clunk)
there is absolutely no cracks in the subframe
the studs and welds around are in perfect condition no signs of cracks there either
solid front diff bushings and rears are oem rubber

I went ahead and bought another 1 Piece DSS aluminum jawn because where my carrier bearing bolts to on the stock one got stripped so I want to eliminate using that at all... not because I think thats where the clunk is coming from because it still clunked when I had one last time.

I am also looking to buy new axles so I can replace everything in the rear... however i can't find a good place to order from... anyone have suggestions? I heard duralast and napa ones blow dick... and raxles doesn't make them for our cars

well thats about it... i'll be dropping the subframe AGAIN because i need to use r33 ebrake cables instead of 2+2 shits so i'm open to suggestions when for when I do it again...

[Kern240sx]

Soap carisma has axles for 86 a side I've been thinking of getting them

[Will.]

Same problem in my rear passenger wheel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kern240sx]

Yea I believe it's a common problem and if anyone finds out what it is will be like finding the holy grail

[lflkajfj12123]

http://www.lookingglassreview.com/assets/images/Curse_of_the_pharaohs.jpg

http://www.photo-dictionary.com/photofiles/list/6134/8076voodoo.jpg

http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01594/exorcist_1594535c.jpg

http://static.dangerousminds.net/uploads/images/rip_heart_out_how_to_kill_with_bare_hands_anarchis t_cookbook_ill_spot_thumb.jpg

http://garbageduck.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/kano.jpg

http://cache.gawkerassets.com/assets/images/kotaku/2009/04/ghostbusters_psp_01.jpg

[kouki_drifter]

check your axles i had the same issue i have a welded diff but mine would make noise on left hand turns also, i switched out my drivers side axle and it went away more than likely thats what it is.

[1on1]

I have lifetime axles from o'reilly/kragen, I blew 3 sets, and they are still warrantied. Lucky me, I have set on the side for those "just in case shit happens" situations.

I know my rear end clunks but I am assuming it's my traction rods since they're still stock and most likely have blown bushings.

Can you post another video of the clunking noise?

[jdo180]

didnt see Rear Lca's on the list ...???that would be a cheap way to rule out old worn shit!!!
good luck

[jdo180]

and is your 240 RED!!!! curse of the red 240!!scary shit dude ...its real!!

[Kern240sx]

Lol mine was gold an now grey. But I've changed mine with new nissan oem lcas both side an still the same

[lflkajfj12123]

haha i've ruled out that it could be anything with suspension since the car clunks at a complete stop

i believe i'm close to fixing it... i think the noise got slightly better with the bushings being epoxied

[Kern240sx]

I'm gonna have to post my videos to show you but I think it's either the hub being stripped out giving play or something with the brake or axle Bc I can hold the brake an let of the clutch a little bit and it produces a clunk bad and I've narrowed it down to the passenger rear.

[Slo_lo_zenki]

that sounds like a cv or hub problem.... mine did that sh*t til last sat night when my passenger cv exploded into three peices..... fun times

[iRONDONkey]

just installed my energy suspension subframe bushings..

i only used a impact wrench to tighten them. can they be too tight? i get vibrations when i get into higher rpms.

also the transmission area has a lot of shaking.

i think it's from me pulling the drive shaft back a little to reach the open diff.

i use to have a J30 which pushed it forward, but now i'm back to an open diff, and had to yank it back about an inch.

[Xplat]

Let me ask you this. What fluid are you using in your transmission? Is it GL-5? I recently lost my clunk problem nearly 98% by putting 2.5 quarts of fresh MT-90 Red Line GL-4.

The old stuff came out black with shiny flakes of syncro.

[iRONDONkey]

my tranny never vibrated like that.

i dont plan on changing the fluid because i'm swapping my SR in next month.

[Kern240sx]

i would believe that if i havnt went through 3 transmissions im thinking that the cv in the hub one of the splines might be messed up and causing slack because when i replaced my diff for the second time i made sure there was no play and when i put it in i have play in the axles and i can turn the diff and there is play but i changed that one side with a junkyard one from a j30 but idk if it was blown or maybe the hub stripped. im hoping to find out soon i love my car but the sound makes me not want to drive it

[intel5811]

Well here go my 2¢ I had a similar issue on two of my ride on the s13 there was a "clunk" I turned out being the half shaft on the passenger side. And as for the other car it was a 95 maro and that clunk sounds more of what your experiencing that was the shocks everytime you shift take off or do any movement that involves the rear end shift weight downward you'll have the clunk. Good luck hope this helps.

[Xplat]

Also want to add that I replaced the trans mount with a nismo one when I threw in the MT-90.

Check your mount see whats up, it's probably already been suggested a ton by now though.