engine knock - rod bearing?

[tuforteee]

Ok, so i installed a used s14 sr20 in my 240 and started it up. It sounded pretty healthy, but would break up on higher rpms. I just had to set the timing to 15*. I got the timing light and went at it. The 15* mark was a little jumpy, so i went online and i read that the procedure is to:
- let the car warm up to operating temp
- unplug the tps
- rev the engine around 3k to lock the engine into "timing" mode
- set the timing
So that's what i did, but once i got to revving the car to set it into timing mode, it started knocking. I immediately turned it off. I turned it on again and the knock is still there. I unplugged the coilpacks one by one to see if it disappears, but i didnt really notice any change. Does that sound like a crushed rod bearing? I'm so fed up with this car, i just want to drive it. I want to replace the bearings with the engine in the car, but i just wanna make sure that what's wrong with it.

[omgRWDgoodness!]

The 15* mark was a little jumpy, so i went online and i read that the procedure is to:
- let the car warm up to operating temp
- unplug the tps
- rev the engine around 3k to lock the engine into "timing" mode
- set the timing
So that's what i did, but once i got to revving the car to set it into timing mode, it started knocking. I immediately turned it off. I turned it on again and the knock is still there. I unplugged the coilpacks one by one to see if it disappears, but i didnt really notice any change. Does that sound like a crushed rod bearing? I'm so fed up with this car, i just want to drive it. I want to replace the bearings with the engine in the car, but i just wanna make sure that what's wrong with it.
NOOOOO do not run it like that anymore!! You've read everything correctly with the exception of the red-bolded statement, wherever you read that is a tad mistaken. In short, your engine is knocking because the timing is more than likely ridiculously advanced. Your ignition timing should be set when at operating temperature while the car is IDLING (at the correct RPM, check FSM if unsure). Unplugging the coilpack will only cause the engine to fire on 3 cylinders, making it even worse. Turn the CAS back down to approximately where it was in order to reduce knocking before you start it back up again, then connect your timing light and re-time it when it's warmed up.

[sr20sean]

NOOOOO do not run it like that anymore!! You've read everything correctly with the exception of the red-bolded statement, wherever you read that is a tad mistaken. In short, your engine is knocking because the timing is more than likely ridiculously advanced. Your ignition timing should be set when at operating temperature while the car is IDLING (at the correct RPM, check FSM if unsure). Unplugging the coilpack will only cause the engine to fire on 3 cylinders, making it even worse. Turn the CAS back down to approximately where it was in order to reduce knocking before you start it back up again, then connect your timing light and re-time it when it's warmed up.

you have to rev it to 3k 3 times to lock the ecu into timing mode then you let it idle..... you dont leave it at 3k...

also you will have a harder time replacing the bearings while its in the car than when its out of the car

[tuforteee]

yeah thats what i did... i revved it up to 3k, but immediately it started knocking, i dont think i even got to 3k. Now I think it doesnt matter if i turn the cas one way or another, the knock is still there... also i would rather leave the engine in the car, i have skinny hands... But my question is if i unplugged the knocking cylinder, shouldn't i be able to hear the difference?

[shaggy sr]

did u check vacumm lines between battery and air intake?

[Def]

Does the knocking sound follow RPM? Did you lose oil pressure for some reason?

[Walperstyle]

This is why any used engine I buy gets taken apart and rebuilt. Check for debris in oil pan, and make sure the noise isn't coming from the head.

[tuforteee]

so i pulled the pan
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/310292_10150786933985032_746135031_20594593_210204 6661_n.jpg
FML...
I'm going to replace the bearings with the engine in the car... I have standard sized ACL bearings laying around, is there a trick to make this easy? And at least i know the car was running for 5 minutes max with the knock, so i'm hoping the crank is still good...

[bc.]

Yeah, an easier way would be to pull your motor...

[tuforteee]

ok that is not a metal shaving, i guess some of the rtv just fell in there and looked sort of like one (never seen it before, so i got overexcited)... im stumped... Shouldn't there be some metal shavings on the bottom of the oil pan? I got a magnet and swept the bottom of the oil pan, but didnt get anything ... ahhh this car stuff...i guess i might as well change out the bearings and if that doesn't work then i'll just part it out, it's been too long

[tuforteee]

ahh #1 & #2 are done, but i can't take the rod cap off #'s 3 + 4... is there a trick to make it go off without a fight? i tried twisting and rocking it back and forth, but that didnt help much... any suggestions?

[NAVY-ET]

use a piece of wood to catche the rod bolt and push the piston into the bore a little,
should release the cap

[tuforteee]

heh thanks, i just googled it too and thats what it said... thanks for the tip!

[tuforteee]

so #2 bearing looks like this, it's so minimal, i wouldnt even think it would cause knocking, but i guess they're very sensitive:
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/301684_10150793454030032_746135031_20645992_127933 1793_n.jpg
I also scratched one of the new halves up, so i have to wait for a new set o come in to finish it :/