Redtop SR Quick Questions

[DORIMON]

I would like to just bypass that container-looking part (circled in the attached picture), I just need to know if its absolutely necessary. What is it actually? Also the yellow arrow in the picture is referring to a metal elbow pipe/line that is tapped into the heater hose/line, it seems to be loose and wobbling, but it doesn't come untapped, is it suppose to be like that? Looks like a potential problem for leaking. I'm already deciding to look for a brass tee of some sort to fix the problem, but I would like to know if this problem is usual.

If interested in my swap, so far the following has been installed, Greddy 02 dumpipe, new cam angle sensor, new waterpump, new belts and heater hoses, new spark plugs and oil filter, installed missing alternator, removed misc. hoses and turbo heat shields, SPEC stage 3 clutch, resurfaced factory flywheel, and new Nismo thermostat. I still have many more parts sitting in front of me waiting to be installed:

Nismo Motor & Tranny Mounts
HKS SSQV/Hotpipe Kit
Blitz LM Front Mount Intercooler
HKS Type-0 Turbo Timer (Black) w/ S14 Harness
Flex-a-lite Dual 12" Electric Fans
Koyo Aluminum Radiator
Odyssey Slim Battery
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Heavy Throttle Custom Stainless Downpipe
Heavy Throttle Straightpipe
S13 MAFS
Rewired Harness
Greddy Oil Pan



-Benji

[Negreac]

The black box you see is more or less a stock catch tank. The line from the bottom is the crankcase breather. You can get rid of the box if you want but you will need to run a hose from the metal pipe coming from the crankcase to the T on the valve cover, unless of coarse you get an aftermarket catch tank in which case you have a couple of other options. Anyway, I would just repaint it and keep it if I were you. The problem with getting rid of it is you have to find a hose that can withstand alot of heat since it will be running so close to the exhaust manifold. You will also lose oil quicker. The idea of the box is to keep the oil in the crankcase but still allow it to vent air. The elbow coming off teh coolant line is VERY important. You will need to have it welded back on by a professional welder. You should be able to find one in the yellow pages that will comeout to your house and do it for you if you don't know someone. It shouldn't cost that much. That line is a coolant line for the turbo. Get it fixed, and get it fixed right.

[DORIMON]

Originally posted by Negreac
The black box you see is more or less a stock catch tank. The line from the bottom is the crankcase breather. You can get rid of the box if you want but you will need to run a hose from the metal pipe coming from the crankcase to the T on the valve cover, unless of coarse you get an aftermarket catch tank in which case you have a couple of other options. Anyway, I would just repaint it and keep it if I were you. The problem with getting rid of it is you have to find a hose that can withstand alot of heat since it will be running so close to the exhaust manifold. You will also lose oil quicker. The idea of the box is to keep the oil in the crankcase but still allow it to vent air. The elbow coming off teh coolant line is VERY important. You will need to have it welded back on by a professional welder. You should be able to find one in the yellow pages that will comeout to your house and do it for you if you don't know someone. It shouldn't cost that much. That line is a coolant line for the turbo. Get it fixed, and get it fixed right. Sounds good, if I can't find someone to come to the house, I'll see if that whole coolant line assembly is removable and I'll take it to a shop. I think the catch tank will stay. Thanks for your help.

-Benji

[Negreac]

It is removable but if I remember correctly you have to remove the intake manifold to get it off, in which case you will have to buy new gaskets for the manifold since they are not reusable. These gaskets will cost you over $40 to replace which will more than likely weigh out any extra cost of having the welder come to your shop/house and weld it. You can still try and remove it without taking the intake manifold off, it's worth a shot.

[silviasichigo]

You can bypass the whole thing it is not necessary at all. From the looks of your picture you have an aftermarket down pipe with out the resonator tube on it any way. So all they did to the engin in the pic is kept the box in line you can get a longer tube and connect it straight to the tube on the block. you do not have to take the manifold off to do this there are four bolts that hold this assymbley together.

As for the heater hose this came out of a Silvia so the heater sore is on the opposite side of the car and they just looped that hose you are referring to off to the other side, so, just ensure that all your fittings are tight and check them when you put the engine in the car because they are a bi7CH to get to once it is in the car.

[Negreac]

Originally posted by silviasichigo
You can bypass the whole thing it is not necessary at all. From the looks of your picture you have an aftermarket down pipe with out the resonator tube on it any way. So all they did to the engin in the pic is kept the box in line you can get a longer tube and connect it straight to the tube on the block. you do not have to take the manifold off to do this there are four bolts that hold this assymbley together.

As for the heater hose this came out of a Silvia so the heater sore is on the opposite side of the car and they just looped that hose you are referring to off to the other side, so, just ensure that all your fittings are tight and check them when you put the engine in the car because they are a bi7CH to get to once it is in the car.

Did you read the post?:confused:

[DORIMON]

Originally posted by Negreac
It is removable but if I remember correctly you have to remove the intake manifold to get it off, in which case you will have to buy new gaskets for the manifold since they are not reusable. These gaskets will cost you over $40 to replace which will more than likely weigh out any extra cost of having the welder come to your shop/house and weld it. You can still try and remove it without taking the intake manifold off, it's worth a shot. I've been busy with school so I called it quits on the swap until a few days ago I started making plans to work on it again. I was just about to find something to replace that one part of the line with some kind of tee, but I looked very closely and I was able to remove the whole assembly for me to take to a welder. I'm going to attach a few more pics of the problem for future reference. Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but I thought this would be somewhat useful to others in the future. Here is a pic of the assembly removed.

[DORIMON]

And here is exactly where I need to get the welding done.

[93_180sx]

i have a sr20det in my 180 and these thinigs are there for a reason, and i think it has something to do with the egr that halps emision control, if i was you i would just leave it.

[Negreac]

Yeah, that is the coolant line for the center section. Pretty sure it's the feed, not the return. If you don't have that fixed you WILL have turbo faliure, no ifs ands or buts about it.

[DORIMON]

Yeah, that is the coolant line for the center section. Pretty sure it's the feed, not the return. If you don't have that fixed you WILL have turbo faliure, no ifs ands or buts about it.Finally got it fixed. I had it done by a welder.

[DORIMON]

Finally got it fixed. I had it done by a welder.And here it is painted with rust preventive and installed.