Chris28
08-12-2011, 08:07 AM
I'm selling the turbo I've been running on my ka-t for the past 2 years, it just recently had all the seals replaced and does not smoke at all. It's a Garrett TB2804, it came stock on Pulsar GTi-R's and is basically the biggest t2 framed turbo you can get. It will support around 350whp with supporting modifications. I made 293whp /310tq at 10 psi on my ka, the peak efficiency range is around 20 psi, so it definitely has a lot left in it.
Here are the technical specifications: it has a 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in standard T-3 housing, 79 trim 53.8mm Inco T-250 turbine wheel, and an .86 A/R turbine housing.
The best part about this turbo is that it is a journal bearing turbo, meaning it can be rebuilt. I spooled 10 psi by 2500 rpm, it's a great all-around turbo. I also had the compressor inlet/outlet cut and re-welded at the correct angles for this turbo. Since it's basically an s15 turbo you would need the adapter plates to clock the inlet and outlet so they faced the right direction, but I'm including the modified inlet and outlet with the turbo so it's literally a direct bolt on affair. I also have a -10AN oil return flange for it. Basically I had the return tube cut off of the stock flange and a -10AN fitting welded to that. Makes an AN hose return setup a breeze, especially if you're running a ka-t. I had to make a fancy wastegate arm since this turbo wasn't oem for the sr, but it works perfectly. Wastegate is set at around 10 psi.
Pros: It can be rebuilt. It spools super quick. It can support a lot of power. It's literally a direct bolt on for sr20's. Comes with dope oil return flange.
Now here come the cons. It has some shaft play, about 1mm worth side to side. There is absolutely no in/out shaft play, so I guess that can be listed as a pro. The turbine and compressor blades have never hit the housings and it doesn't smoke, but like I said it does have shaft play. Also, the turbine housing is has a crack under the internal wastegate area, you can see it in the 3rd picture. I've been running this turbo for 2 years with the crack there and nothing has happened. If anything it spools slower, but I consider 10 psi at 2500rpm lightning quick. I also snapped a stud off in the turbine housing, but I guess you could use an easy out to get it out. Or just not worry about it, that's what I've been doing and it's been fine. It just means you have 4 bolts holding the outlet on instead of 5.
Cons: Some shaft play, cracked turbine housing. You can buy a new turbine housing for it, but like I said I've been running this turbo for the past two years in it's current condition and nothing has ever happened.
Anyways, on to the pictures.
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/282156_10150332927344935_675384934_9437355_5538389 _n.jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/283872_10150332927424935_675384934_9437356_3216521 _n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/205873_10150332927599935_675384934_9437357_3599586 _n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/262931_10150332927764935_675384934_9437360_3492688 _n.jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/267239_10150332927889935_675384934_9437362_7601967 _n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/185227_10150332927964935_675384934_9437364_1706251 _n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/228803_10150332928819935_675384934_9437382_6218650 _n.jpg
Dyno:
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/22665_293039969934_675384934_4464770_90176_n.jpg
Comparison to a stock t25:
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/22665_257545634934_675384934_4283236_6584522_n.jpg
Asking $350 OBO. You can get a rebuild kit for $50 and have a practically brand new bolt on turbo for your SR that can support 350whp. Or put it on a KA and have the ultimate bottom mount setup.
Located in Raleigh NC, can ship though.
Contact - Reply to this thread, PM me, or call/text me at 757 788 9847, name is Chris. Thanks for looking!
Here are the technical specifications: it has a 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in standard T-3 housing, 79 trim 53.8mm Inco T-250 turbine wheel, and an .86 A/R turbine housing.
The best part about this turbo is that it is a journal bearing turbo, meaning it can be rebuilt. I spooled 10 psi by 2500 rpm, it's a great all-around turbo. I also had the compressor inlet/outlet cut and re-welded at the correct angles for this turbo. Since it's basically an s15 turbo you would need the adapter plates to clock the inlet and outlet so they faced the right direction, but I'm including the modified inlet and outlet with the turbo so it's literally a direct bolt on affair. I also have a -10AN oil return flange for it. Basically I had the return tube cut off of the stock flange and a -10AN fitting welded to that. Makes an AN hose return setup a breeze, especially if you're running a ka-t. I had to make a fancy wastegate arm since this turbo wasn't oem for the sr, but it works perfectly. Wastegate is set at around 10 psi.
Pros: It can be rebuilt. It spools super quick. It can support a lot of power. It's literally a direct bolt on for sr20's. Comes with dope oil return flange.
Now here come the cons. It has some shaft play, about 1mm worth side to side. There is absolutely no in/out shaft play, so I guess that can be listed as a pro. The turbine and compressor blades have never hit the housings and it doesn't smoke, but like I said it does have shaft play. Also, the turbine housing is has a crack under the internal wastegate area, you can see it in the 3rd picture. I've been running this turbo for 2 years with the crack there and nothing has happened. If anything it spools slower, but I consider 10 psi at 2500rpm lightning quick. I also snapped a stud off in the turbine housing, but I guess you could use an easy out to get it out. Or just not worry about it, that's what I've been doing and it's been fine. It just means you have 4 bolts holding the outlet on instead of 5.
Cons: Some shaft play, cracked turbine housing. You can buy a new turbine housing for it, but like I said I've been running this turbo for the past two years in it's current condition and nothing has ever happened.
Anyways, on to the pictures.
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/282156_10150332927344935_675384934_9437355_5538389 _n.jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/283872_10150332927424935_675384934_9437356_3216521 _n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/205873_10150332927599935_675384934_9437357_3599586 _n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/262931_10150332927764935_675384934_9437360_3492688 _n.jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/267239_10150332927889935_675384934_9437362_7601967 _n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/185227_10150332927964935_675384934_9437364_1706251 _n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/228803_10150332928819935_675384934_9437382_6218650 _n.jpg
Dyno:
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/22665_293039969934_675384934_4464770_90176_n.jpg
Comparison to a stock t25:
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/22665_257545634934_675384934_4283236_6584522_n.jpg
Asking $350 OBO. You can get a rebuild kit for $50 and have a practically brand new bolt on turbo for your SR that can support 350whp. Or put it on a KA and have the ultimate bottom mount setup.
Located in Raleigh NC, can ship though.
Contact - Reply to this thread, PM me, or call/text me at 757 788 9847, name is Chris. Thanks for looking!