S14 Rack Into S13?

[lbs_ft]

Just to set the stage, I've searched everywhere for the information I need, and I can't find it, that's why I'm asking here.

My S13 coupe's rack just shot the shit, so I ordered a new one to replace it.

New one came in, looked good. Pulled the old one - PITA. Went to swap the tie rod ends from the old rack onto the new one and they wouldn't go. The new rack had thicker outer tie rods.

So I went up to the local auto parts store and tried on a couple different S13 tie rod ends to no avail. Tried one from an S14 and it went on without a hitch.

Swapped the new rack in and went to hook the tie rod ends to the wheels and I'm running into insurmountable issues.

After measuring, the new rack is 47 inches, whereas the old is 45. Even with the lock nuts removed from the tie rods and the ends spun all the way in, I can't get everything hooked up without the wheels looking like this: \ /

It is pissing me off beyond belief. I'm gonna go keep messing with it, despite daunting depression, but if anyone can help me it'd be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

[az_240]

The rack itself should only be around 25". They are interchangeable by simply swapping the bushings. Did you try measuring the tie rods by themselves?

Maybe you need shorter inner tie rods such as z32.

[lbs_ft]

Alright, seeing as how everything's here and I'm a very impatient person, I have a question.

Seeing as my new rack, when fully assembled, is 2 inches longer than my old rack when fully assembled, would it be safe to cut and inch off the end of both outer tie rods and use a die to thread an inch further in past where the threads stop now?

[smbonn2005]

You'd just end up messing up your dies I do believe. Inner tie rods are made from a fairly hard metal. I may be wrong but I believe best bet would be going with the Z32 inners as they are a little shorter.

[tommytwo40hands]

I thought s13 and s14 racks weren't compatible with each other...Why can't you just send the rack back and get an s13 rack?

[az_240]

^they are... the only difference is the diameter of the rack casing.... s13 is slightly larger in diameter than the s14 so the bushing is slightly thinner. Use corresponding bushings (s13 rack = s13 bushings, s14 rack = s14 bushings)... The odd shaped bushing works on both s13 and s14 racks.

It sounds to me like his inner/outer tie rod combo is messed up....

[tommytwo40hands]

Ok, so I searched because I seem to be a bit clueless in this area..and here's what I found...it should help you with your problem.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/141519-rack-pinion-steering.html

[lbs_ft]

Alright, I wanted to get some miles on the car and put it through its paces before I said anything here and set it in stone. Here goes.

The rack was identical between the S13 and S14 models - lines, inlet and outlet fittings, everything - but the outer tie rods were thicker. I received the rack and pinion fully assembled - rack, hardlines, dustboots, inner and outer tie rods, but no tie rod ends - and when placed next to the OEM S13 rack, it was exactly or almost exactly 2 inches longer.

I went to my local parts store, and after trying a bunch of options, I stuck with Moog Tie Rod Ends (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=227124) because they are fucking beefy as hell and they'll obviously be able to take more stress than the OEM replacements. I have absolutely no regrets about this choice, in fact, I don't think I could've made a better one.

Now I ran into an issue: with the tie rod ends threaded all the way in (even with the lock nuts unused), the wheels were visibly toed inward. No bueno.

Here's my solution: I used a hacksaw to cut an inch off both ends, then I filed the edges just to round them off so I didn't slice the shit out of myself and so the tie rod ends would thread on easier. Then I bought a M14 x 1.5 die (http://www.amazon.com/Murray-Tools-Thread-Repair-Die/dp/B003H28V68) and threaded 2 - 2.5 inches past where the threads stopped initially, just for more flexibility. The auto parts store probably won't carry it (none of mine did), but, luckily, locally we have a store that only deals in bolts and they carried it. It threaded easy enough with some Tap Magic (http://www.amazon.com/Tap-Magic-SEPTLS70220128A-Aluminum/dp/B000LB5VKM) that I pocketed from work. It didn't ruin the die and it didn't ruin the outer tie rod.

This then allowed me to thread the tie rod end and lock nut to a manageable position. The tie rod end was mostly on the original threads and was just overlapping onto the new threads and the nut was just on the new threads. Even after eyeing up the alignment (just good enough to make it to a friend's so he could put it on a legit machine) and torquing the shit out of the lock nut, it held.

After getting it aligned, I did some wet asphalt doughnuts and whipped the wheel from left to right full lock and wide open throttle. Outcome? Sheer bliss.

Last week I went to an empty parking lot and did some dry asphalt drifts. I got up to good speeds, whipped the wheel to break it loose, counter-steered, and just generally put as much stress and unhappiness on the new parts as I could. Result? Perfection, nirvana, anything and everything I could wish for, etc, etc, etc...

Even though it took me a couple days of getting off work at 5 and staying in the garage till past midnight, 2 formerly-wearable-in-public shirts now ruined by ATF, and a good deal of pioneering unknown territories and custom 'fabrication', I cannot tell you the difference between a rack and pinion with 250,000+ miles and a fresh one - night and day does it no justice.

Any questions, feel free to ask here or shoot me a PM.