dwadia
08-08-2011, 06:40 PM
This has been a Florida car for most of its life. It has NO rust issues, and to my knowledge, never had any. The undercarriage has a coating to protect it, it has always been covered or garaged and never driven in snow or even on salted roads. Before it was coated (3 years ago, when I bought the car) the underbody was immaculate. To my knowledge it has not been in any accidents and I don’t know of any body damage or repairs other than a few tiny issues listed below. It has a clean NJ title. Chassis mileage is somewhere around 222,700 (it’s still driven so I can’t be exact), but there is no indication of that whatsoever, aside from the odometer. Engine, tranny and differential mileage are “who really knows”… but low enough that the original flywheel did not show wear. Compression was also tested and good before installation in my car (I don’t still have the exact numbers).
I purchased it and had it shipped to NJ in summer of 2008. At the time it had a KA and the entire car was in exceptionally clean and good condition. I immediately had a S15 SR20DET swapped in, along with the S15 6-speed tranny and Helical LSD, and the other stuff needed to make it “work right.” All this work was professionally done at Import Intelligence. It worked great and had no issues since day one – I have driven this car everywhere, and it has never left me stuck with the exception of a starter failure (which has been repaired). There are no “quirks” or compromises in daily drivability – p/s works, a/c works, the speedo is completely accurate… everything works. If you’ve never driven the 6 speed, it feels a LOT more refined and smoother than the 5 speed SR’s. The gear ratios are much better, especially on the highway, and it’s overall much smoother.
The car has been very well maintained and tastefully modified. I have almost all the parts and labor receipts as well as loads of other technical info. Weatherstrips on the hatch and sunroof have been replaced, bushings have been replaced mostly with polyurethane ones, along with a few pillow-balls. Starter and steering rack were both recently replaced. One window motor was also just replaced. There is very little that is more than a few years old on this car. It has a near-stock appearance but feels nothing like stock. The clutch was replaced at the time of the swap. Since I do very little driving in it… that was about 3,000 miles ago. I don’t believe the engine and transmission were ever abused even in their “previous life,” because when the clutch was changed they were very surprised to find that the flywheel was nearly perfect and needed no resurfacing (and the original clutch itself had plenty of life left on it). I’ve never used the car for drifting, track days, burn-outs, etc… just street driving. Compression has just been tested on Sept. 6 with excellent results (from cyl. 1-4): 150-152-158-151
I generally run it at around 12~14 psi… once in a rare while I do 17~18 psi which is totally safe with this set-up.
I like this car very much and it makes the perfect daily driver for me. My only reason for selling it is that I’m moving, and where I will be going requires AWD and more ground clearance, so I bought a Subaru.
The only type of trade I would consider is a partial trade for a good condition pickup truck (probably with some cash on your end) – preferably Japanese, 4x4, automatic and around year 2000 or newer. Let me know what you have and what kind of deal you have in mind.
I’ve uploaded loads of photos (about 50!) here www.photobucket.com/6SpdHatch AND BE SURE TO LOOK AT THE SUB-ALBUMS on the right for interior and undercarriage pics. *a quick note on the pics: undercarriage pics are from last summer – most is still the same but some rear suspension arms and I believe the tie rods have since been replaced. Most of the other pics were taken this August.
Now for the mods and details...
Engine, Drivetrain, Power & Electronics
FULL manifold-back exhaust: includes high-flow cat, 3 straight-thru resonators (including the rear muffler) and a Car Chemistry insert (removable) – it makes great power and is only slightly louder than stock with NO drone. It draws minimal attention, both in appearance and sound. Most piping is 3”.
Custom 1-piece aluminum driveshaft
ACT clutch
Nismo polyurethane motor and tranny mounts
Blitz FMIC
300zx MAF, with the s15 MAF plug still attached so it can be reverted back
Enthalpy ECU tune based on a data log – so, it’s probably as good as a dyno tune.
Blitz SBC-Id dual solenoid boost controller (display and controls on dash)
Recirculated blow-off valve (not stock)
Innovate wideband sensor and AuxBox (can display and log AFR, boost, RPM, EGT and some other parameters in real-time, and can connect to your laptop while driving).
Moroso oil pan – I believe it’s about 5 quarts
Oversized aluminum radiator
255lph fuel pump
T-bolt clamps on all pressurized intake couplers
Suspension and Chassis
RX7 (FD3) wheels with Falken FK452 tires (5-lug)
Q45 front brakes
Stainless Steel brake lines, ATE fluid
KYB AGX with Tanabe GF210 springs
Whiteline adjustable swaybars with poly bushings, front and rear
Project Mu height-adjustable camber plates
Adjustable RUCA’s and rear traction rods with poly bushings (not too stiff at all)
Adjustable rear toe arms with pillow-ball rod ends
Adjustable tension rods with pillow-ball rod ends (they are steel… I forgot the brand, but not eBay stuff)
New (stock) tie rods and ends
Aluminum under-panel
Strut tower braces front and rear (mounts are in place but braces are currently off – more comfy ride :)
Uninstalled Veilside E-II rear wing – I think this is one of the best-looking wings for this car. It complements the styling perfectly and almost looks like it could be OEM. I had it shipped from Japan but never got around to having it painted and installed. It includes 2 pieces.
Interior
Sentra Spec-V seats with custom mounts to make them fit
Boost controller display unit on dash
Innovate AFR digital display on dash
SPA dual digital gauge for oil temperature and pressure
New 4x6 (oversized) Pioneer speakers, front and rear
Miscellaneous
S14 240sx spare tire
Spare RX7 wheel – in case you damage one
PIAA Super Silicone wiper blades, front and rear
Various spare and stock parts, including stock springs… also, if you don’t see something in the photos which should be there, such as an interior panel, strut tower brace, etc., you can assume that I have it uninstalled and it’s in great condition.
All oils are and have always been either Redline or Mobil 1
Avital alarm with remote start and turbo timer
Wideband 02 display can also be used as a turbo timer if you choose (I use the one on the remote start system).
That’s pretty much all I can think of for the mods, although I might have missed a few minor details.
Issues that could or should be addressed
In heavy, prolonged rain, some water will seep in through the tail light area. It’s not bad at all, and I have re-sealed the tail lights and replaced the weatherstrip to reduce it. Update: Someone who saw my car explained to me how the water is most likely getting in. Where the light housings touch the chassis metal, but i did not know i also had to seal where the lens meets the back portion of the housing. I will do it if i get time, but right now that seems unlikely. At least i know it's not a big deal or hard fix - just a couple hours of time and a tube of weatherstrip adhesive.
Paint clearcoat is water-damaged in some spots. See the close-up pics at the link. This shows the full extent of the issue. I left it under a cover and went away for 2 months. Somehow, some water seeped under the cover and messed up the clearcoat. After that happened it’s always been garaged. The base layer of paint is still fully covering the body and so there is not any rust issue whatsoever.
Also, the hood has a couple minor dings – I mean really tiny – from where a work light dropped on it. I'm talking about the size of a dime and maybe 1/8 of an inch deep.
Sunroof whistles at highway speed – nothing abnormal for these cars but I just want to mention it to be thorough. It has new inner and outer weatherstripping and ironically I think this is causing it to sit a bit higher and whistle. The back does not press down as tightly as would be ideal. If the lever was adjusted downward (by washers or some sort of spacer) the whistling would stop (can be verified by pulling the lever down while driving at speed)… but I almost always leave it opened anyway so it’s never been bothersome enough to go through the trouble.
It needs new rear brake pads. They have 5k-10k left on them before they are fully worn out.
Driver’s side seat belt is slightly frayed in one spot. It was that way when I got it and has not gotten any worse at all in 3 years. In my opinion the strength is nearly fully intact and nothing to be worried about. I'm not just saying this to make a sale - it's been my daily driver for 3 years and i trust my life to it.
Terms of sale and price
It should go without saying, but the car and all parts installed on or included with it are being sold as-is. I can’t guarantee the car or any part of it in any way. I’ve been as thorough and honest as possible. Most of the work was done professionally (and whatever I did myself were only things which I was confident in my ability to do, and have proven reliable when used). That said, it’s a used car with a significant amount of modifications.
I’M WILLING TO SHIP THE CAR, but you have to take care of the arrangements, and also I may be moving as soon as early-mid September, so you will have to make sure it gets picked up if I give you a certain date it must be gone by. I will be as cooperative and flexible as possible with meeting the driver. Of course, I’ll need to receive the full payment before any shipping arrangements are made.
I’m looking for $8,900 or close to that. I'm definitely willing to consider offers as long as they're reasonable. I’m not looking to pull parts off and sell it for less – since I’m in the process of moving, I can’t deal with that right now, and anyway, it all works well together and I don’t really want to pull it apart. I will be including all the 240 and SR-related parts I have, as I need to clear stuff out.
Thanks for looking through my listing.
I purchased it and had it shipped to NJ in summer of 2008. At the time it had a KA and the entire car was in exceptionally clean and good condition. I immediately had a S15 SR20DET swapped in, along with the S15 6-speed tranny and Helical LSD, and the other stuff needed to make it “work right.” All this work was professionally done at Import Intelligence. It worked great and had no issues since day one – I have driven this car everywhere, and it has never left me stuck with the exception of a starter failure (which has been repaired). There are no “quirks” or compromises in daily drivability – p/s works, a/c works, the speedo is completely accurate… everything works. If you’ve never driven the 6 speed, it feels a LOT more refined and smoother than the 5 speed SR’s. The gear ratios are much better, especially on the highway, and it’s overall much smoother.
The car has been very well maintained and tastefully modified. I have almost all the parts and labor receipts as well as loads of other technical info. Weatherstrips on the hatch and sunroof have been replaced, bushings have been replaced mostly with polyurethane ones, along with a few pillow-balls. Starter and steering rack were both recently replaced. One window motor was also just replaced. There is very little that is more than a few years old on this car. It has a near-stock appearance but feels nothing like stock. The clutch was replaced at the time of the swap. Since I do very little driving in it… that was about 3,000 miles ago. I don’t believe the engine and transmission were ever abused even in their “previous life,” because when the clutch was changed they were very surprised to find that the flywheel was nearly perfect and needed no resurfacing (and the original clutch itself had plenty of life left on it). I’ve never used the car for drifting, track days, burn-outs, etc… just street driving. Compression has just been tested on Sept. 6 with excellent results (from cyl. 1-4): 150-152-158-151
I generally run it at around 12~14 psi… once in a rare while I do 17~18 psi which is totally safe with this set-up.
I like this car very much and it makes the perfect daily driver for me. My only reason for selling it is that I’m moving, and where I will be going requires AWD and more ground clearance, so I bought a Subaru.
The only type of trade I would consider is a partial trade for a good condition pickup truck (probably with some cash on your end) – preferably Japanese, 4x4, automatic and around year 2000 or newer. Let me know what you have and what kind of deal you have in mind.
I’ve uploaded loads of photos (about 50!) here www.photobucket.com/6SpdHatch AND BE SURE TO LOOK AT THE SUB-ALBUMS on the right for interior and undercarriage pics. *a quick note on the pics: undercarriage pics are from last summer – most is still the same but some rear suspension arms and I believe the tie rods have since been replaced. Most of the other pics were taken this August.
Now for the mods and details...
Engine, Drivetrain, Power & Electronics
FULL manifold-back exhaust: includes high-flow cat, 3 straight-thru resonators (including the rear muffler) and a Car Chemistry insert (removable) – it makes great power and is only slightly louder than stock with NO drone. It draws minimal attention, both in appearance and sound. Most piping is 3”.
Custom 1-piece aluminum driveshaft
ACT clutch
Nismo polyurethane motor and tranny mounts
Blitz FMIC
300zx MAF, with the s15 MAF plug still attached so it can be reverted back
Enthalpy ECU tune based on a data log – so, it’s probably as good as a dyno tune.
Blitz SBC-Id dual solenoid boost controller (display and controls on dash)
Recirculated blow-off valve (not stock)
Innovate wideband sensor and AuxBox (can display and log AFR, boost, RPM, EGT and some other parameters in real-time, and can connect to your laptop while driving).
Moroso oil pan – I believe it’s about 5 quarts
Oversized aluminum radiator
255lph fuel pump
T-bolt clamps on all pressurized intake couplers
Suspension and Chassis
RX7 (FD3) wheels with Falken FK452 tires (5-lug)
Q45 front brakes
Stainless Steel brake lines, ATE fluid
KYB AGX with Tanabe GF210 springs
Whiteline adjustable swaybars with poly bushings, front and rear
Project Mu height-adjustable camber plates
Adjustable RUCA’s and rear traction rods with poly bushings (not too stiff at all)
Adjustable rear toe arms with pillow-ball rod ends
Adjustable tension rods with pillow-ball rod ends (they are steel… I forgot the brand, but not eBay stuff)
New (stock) tie rods and ends
Aluminum under-panel
Strut tower braces front and rear (mounts are in place but braces are currently off – more comfy ride :)
Uninstalled Veilside E-II rear wing – I think this is one of the best-looking wings for this car. It complements the styling perfectly and almost looks like it could be OEM. I had it shipped from Japan but never got around to having it painted and installed. It includes 2 pieces.
Interior
Sentra Spec-V seats with custom mounts to make them fit
Boost controller display unit on dash
Innovate AFR digital display on dash
SPA dual digital gauge for oil temperature and pressure
New 4x6 (oversized) Pioneer speakers, front and rear
Miscellaneous
S14 240sx spare tire
Spare RX7 wheel – in case you damage one
PIAA Super Silicone wiper blades, front and rear
Various spare and stock parts, including stock springs… also, if you don’t see something in the photos which should be there, such as an interior panel, strut tower brace, etc., you can assume that I have it uninstalled and it’s in great condition.
All oils are and have always been either Redline or Mobil 1
Avital alarm with remote start and turbo timer
Wideband 02 display can also be used as a turbo timer if you choose (I use the one on the remote start system).
That’s pretty much all I can think of for the mods, although I might have missed a few minor details.
Issues that could or should be addressed
In heavy, prolonged rain, some water will seep in through the tail light area. It’s not bad at all, and I have re-sealed the tail lights and replaced the weatherstrip to reduce it. Update: Someone who saw my car explained to me how the water is most likely getting in. Where the light housings touch the chassis metal, but i did not know i also had to seal where the lens meets the back portion of the housing. I will do it if i get time, but right now that seems unlikely. At least i know it's not a big deal or hard fix - just a couple hours of time and a tube of weatherstrip adhesive.
Paint clearcoat is water-damaged in some spots. See the close-up pics at the link. This shows the full extent of the issue. I left it under a cover and went away for 2 months. Somehow, some water seeped under the cover and messed up the clearcoat. After that happened it’s always been garaged. The base layer of paint is still fully covering the body and so there is not any rust issue whatsoever.
Also, the hood has a couple minor dings – I mean really tiny – from where a work light dropped on it. I'm talking about the size of a dime and maybe 1/8 of an inch deep.
Sunroof whistles at highway speed – nothing abnormal for these cars but I just want to mention it to be thorough. It has new inner and outer weatherstripping and ironically I think this is causing it to sit a bit higher and whistle. The back does not press down as tightly as would be ideal. If the lever was adjusted downward (by washers or some sort of spacer) the whistling would stop (can be verified by pulling the lever down while driving at speed)… but I almost always leave it opened anyway so it’s never been bothersome enough to go through the trouble.
It needs new rear brake pads. They have 5k-10k left on them before they are fully worn out.
Driver’s side seat belt is slightly frayed in one spot. It was that way when I got it and has not gotten any worse at all in 3 years. In my opinion the strength is nearly fully intact and nothing to be worried about. I'm not just saying this to make a sale - it's been my daily driver for 3 years and i trust my life to it.
Terms of sale and price
It should go without saying, but the car and all parts installed on or included with it are being sold as-is. I can’t guarantee the car or any part of it in any way. I’ve been as thorough and honest as possible. Most of the work was done professionally (and whatever I did myself were only things which I was confident in my ability to do, and have proven reliable when used). That said, it’s a used car with a significant amount of modifications.
I’M WILLING TO SHIP THE CAR, but you have to take care of the arrangements, and also I may be moving as soon as early-mid September, so you will have to make sure it gets picked up if I give you a certain date it must be gone by. I will be as cooperative and flexible as possible with meeting the driver. Of course, I’ll need to receive the full payment before any shipping arrangements are made.
I’m looking for $8,900 or close to that. I'm definitely willing to consider offers as long as they're reasonable. I’m not looking to pull parts off and sell it for less – since I’m in the process of moving, I can’t deal with that right now, and anyway, it all works well together and I don’t really want to pull it apart. I will be including all the 240 and SR-related parts I have, as I need to clear stuff out.
Thanks for looking through my listing.