View Full Version : no oil in head?
two40guy
08-08-2011, 05:31 AM
trying to get my sr running right.. i got an s14 sr and here are the problems im having..
1: Car has like 10psi of vacuum at idle. should be around 20 correct?
2: the oil squirters arent getting oil to the head.
3: my car is getting just enough fuel to run, even at idle its off the charts lean on my wideband.
I pressurized the system looking for vac leaks and fixed them so i dont understand why my vac is low.. maybe valve timing is off?
im pretty sure i did get an s14 sr head Gasket but maybe i didnt and its blocking an oil passage?
and the fuel.. i dont really get since it primes and everything then just doesnt get fuel according to my wideband, walbro 255 by the way.
if you can think of anything by all means feel free to help a brother out.. cause not having a car blows haha thanks!:2f2f:
s13 @ fullboost
08-08-2011, 06:00 AM
check fuel pressure at the pump and at the rail.
two40guy
08-08-2011, 07:30 AM
How would I go about doing that effectively?
two40guy
08-08-2011, 01:22 PM
noo one????
5DAKsx
08-08-2011, 01:26 PM
disconnect your fuel line just after your filter and turn the key. if gas spays all over your motor you good.
codyace
08-08-2011, 03:27 PM
Set timing, and set idle to fix low vacuum. If you'r enot getting oil to the top end, take the cam squirters off and either clean them, or get new ones (order them for a 98 Sentra, they are updated with larger holes)
Fuel wise remember it goes
Pump
Gauge
Rail
FPR
Return
Banana_Cute
08-08-2011, 03:39 PM
I had this problem with my N/A. I Opened up my oil pan and remove the oil pick up and gave it a good cleaning.
Problem solved.
It was making that very very nasty screeching sound. Metal grinding up against each other with no lubrication.
two40guy
08-08-2011, 06:41 PM
Set timing, and set idle to fix low vacuum. If you'r enot getting oil to the top end, take the cam squirters off and either clean them, or get new ones (order them for a 98 Sentra, they are updated with larger holes)
Fuel wise remember it goes
Pump
Gauge
Rail
FPR
Return
i set timing using the counting method, you know with like 20 dots in between the timing marks.. you think maybe i might be a tooth or two off? like enough to make it run but not good enough to run right? cause it runs really rough..
as for the oil im gonna take my oil pressure switch out and see if its building pressure and squirting out.. if it is im thinking the place i got the head gasket from shipped me an s13 headgasket. cause i heard s14's have a different oil port for the head so i dont know maybe that'll do it.
I had this problem with my N/A. I Opened up my oil pan and remove the oil pick up and gave it a good cleaning.
Problem solved.
It was making that very very nasty screeching sound. Metal grinding up against each other with no lubrication.
yeah thats what mine is doing.. it sounds awful.. and the squirters do absolutley nothing.. they got holes like there should be a banjo bolt but none of the cam bolts are.. how exactly do they work?
disconnect your fuel line just after your filter and turn the key. if gas spays all over your motor you good.
ill try i, why not
codyace
08-08-2011, 06:52 PM
i set timing using the counting method, you know with like 20 dots in between the timing marks.. you think maybe i might be a tooth or two off? like enough to make it run but not good enough to run right? cause it runs really rough..
Headgasket shouldn't make any difference btween any of the engines.
In regard to timing, you have both mechanical timing (which involves setting engine at TDC, and aligning the cams/links), and then you have distributor/electrical timing, where you install the CAS into the head, and then adjust it. It sounds like you may be out of adjustment there.
two40guy
08-08-2011, 06:57 PM
Headgasket shouldn't make any difference btween any of the engines.
In regard to timing, you have both mechanical timing (which involves setting engine at TDC, and aligning the cams/links), and then you have distributor/electrical timing, where you install the CAS into the head, and then adjust it. It sounds like you may be out of adjustment there.
well thats what i thought. we set it to tdc then used a timing light to set the ignition timing perfect and it still ran kinda rough. thats why im thinking its a possibility that my valve timing might be off a tooth or two, cause the vacuum is low and the needle wiggles like crazy back and fourth from 10 to 12 psi at idle. or am i still off? im just trying to figure it out so im asking questions and stuff not trying to be a dick and disagree or anything
codyace
08-08-2011, 07:01 PM
Haha Totally understood man, I knew you were looking for verfication.
If you were able to have the timing light show up on 15* (the second mark from the right, and the adjustment of the cas is near the middle (as in the cas isn't totally adjusted into the bolt) then you probably have it close. Have you played with raising the idle slightly?
two40guy
08-08-2011, 07:04 PM
well we got the idle sitting at about 800-850 and it stays running but between running super rough still the disgusting noise in the head from no oil.. and running super lean i try not to run it much. but when it sits and idles it runs rough like i said before, the wideband is completley lean, and the boost/vac gauge tweaks constantly wiggling back and fourth between 10-12psi
but i think me and my buddy timed it second from right? im pretty sure. cause it was zero degrees so we wanted to start in the middle and not worry about retarded or advanced timing.
zurud
08-10-2011, 02:12 AM
I think your head might be done or almost done. With no oil going to head your cam will be grounded to nothing and so do cam journal. With vacuum wiggling between 10 to 12 psi, it maybe the valve seat not fully close with valve. Do leak down test and oil pressure test before you run the engine. Probably too late now.
codyace
08-10-2011, 09:27 AM
well we got the idle sitting at about 800-850 and it stays running but between running super rough still the disgusting noise in the head from no oil.. and running super lean i try not to run it much. but when it sits and idles it runs rough like i said before, the wideband is completley lean, and the boost/vac gauge tweaks constantly wiggling back and fourth between 10-12psi
but i think me and my buddy timed it second from right? im pretty sure. cause it was zero degrees so we wanted to start in the middle and not worry about retarded or advanced timing.
Ah yes, 15* is 2nd from the right , 0* is second from the left. My fault there wasn't paying attention.
Are you sure you don't have any vacuum leaks? Stock SR should be 15+ in vacuum
two40guy
08-10-2011, 12:24 PM
well its bored .20 over with forged internals so i dont know if that would make a difference or not. but motor had to come out, oil pump isnt pumping any oil.. so gotta replace it.. this hope fully should give me good oil pressure which will pump my rockers up the way they should be and get it running smoother.
shiftdrift
08-10-2011, 12:33 PM
how long did you have it running without getting oil? chances are it fucked some internals up.
maverickmotorsports
08-10-2011, 12:39 PM
Do you have an oil cooler or a remote oil filter?
The lines need to be hooked up correctly or there won't be oil flow through the filter which will not send oil to the rest of the engine.
two40guy
08-10-2011, 01:19 PM
not long.. once i realized the head wasnt getting oil i shut it off. maybe a minute or two.
but i have just an oil filter, so it should be just fine. i took the pressure switch out today and just turned it over a couple times and no oil came out. so its almost like there is no oil moving anywhere.. when i get the motor out im gonnna check the oil pan and stuff out and see how the pick up looks.. maybe its clogged or something so its not getting any oil to circulate or something.. i dont know i guess we'll find out soon once i get this motor pulled back out
shiftdrift
08-10-2011, 05:03 PM
If its not sealed properly it also wont pump. Id check the pan for metal shavings.
word sux
08-10-2011, 05:23 PM
check oil pressure
make sure you put the squirter rail in right it
two40guy
08-11-2011, 09:41 AM
i dont know whats wrong with it.. i primed the oil pump, nothing.. took the oil pan off saw that it was a little dented.. got that straightened out.. primed it from the oil pump tube and put the oil pan back on, turned it over a little and still nothing.. i primed it and had oil coming out of the squirters and stuff so i know everythings getting oil, so it pretty much has to be the pump?
two40guy
08-15-2011, 06:17 PM
been a while, but i foung the problem.. someone must have replaced the front main seal and fucked up somehow.. :werd: they went in and pry'd the old one out and completely shattered the ring that sits around the crank and pulley.. and the metal chunks were blocking the oil.. no way in hell that thing was getting oil. but got a replacement on the way so hopefully my bottom end is fine :(
codyace
08-15-2011, 10:44 PM
Front main should not have any determinate on the oil pressure...
two40guy
08-16-2011, 07:36 AM
no i must have just worded it wrong. they like completely shattered part of it.. you arent pumping oil with a gaping hole in your oil pump hah.
codyace
08-16-2011, 10:00 AM
Ah yea! That can do it. Freakin crazy they had to pry that hard to get that little seal out.
two40guy
08-17-2011, 07:11 PM
right? im just stoked i could visually see what was wrong with it instead of playing the guessing game. but new head gasket and oil pump us getting ordered tomorrow! lets get this bitch running! :2f2f:
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