Do I Need a New Oil Pump?

[pacotaco345]

I'm getting ready to buy a timing kit for my car.. I've had timing chain rattle since I put this motor in it over Christmas break (its a 95 ka that I swapped into my 91).. I've put a new upper tensioner in it, removed the guides, and it still makes a ton of noise. I'm tired of having to shut off my car in drive thru's just so people can take my order, the motor is great aside from that one issue, it leaks down at 12% across the board, and it has above 155 psi compression everywhere. When I start the car though the oil light stays on for about 30 seconds unless I rev it some. The only thing keeping me from replacing the oil pump is the cost, I figured I might as well replace it since I'm gonna have it off anyways but do I really need it?

[Kyle W.]

First id replace the oil pressure sensor. If that doesn't work, replace the oil pump.

[pacotaco345]

First id replace the oil pressure sensor. If that doesn't work, replace the oil pump.

I searched before I made this and people were saying it comes on under 8 psi. Once the car has run for a lil it's never to be seen again so I'm kinda thinkin that the sensor is good.. Someone mentioned something about a check valve that keeps oil from draining the system when the car is off, does anyone know if this exists? and if so is it located in the oil pump or somewhere else..

[ixfxi]

low oil pressure... eh? anyone else here think that this man's motor is scored and fucked? an oil pump seems to be an immediate need, but past due.. ide bet that perm damage has already been done BROSEF. that'll teach you for going to drive-throughs

[thefro526]

low oil pressure... eh? anyone else here think that this man's motor is scored and fucked? an oil pump seems to be an immediate need, but past due.. ide bet that perm damage has already been done BROSEF. that'll teach you for going to drive-throughs

What he said.

Sounds like the low oil pressure has probably damaged a bunch of components causing excess noise. Sure, you could replace the Oil Pump, but at that point you may as well replace the motor too since your current one is probs toast.

[pacotaco345]

Ummmm.. Okay? I pulled the motor apart and checked all the bearing clearances etc before I stuck it in my car and they were all good 6 months ago, and it's given me the oil light on startup ever since I put it in my car. Once again it only comes on right when I start my car, and once it's run for a few seconds it goes away. I've never seen it while I'm driving or anything like that.

[fliprayzin240sx]

30 seconds is not a few seconds...if your light takes more than 5 seconds to go away after startup, without anything that could cause it to take a while to build up pressure (ie: oil cooler and such), there is something seriously fucked in the engine.

Also, just because the light isnt on doesnt mean your not having an oil pressure issue. If you have 12-14 psi of pressure isnt gonna trip the sensor on, but it sure hell will kill your engine when thats all your seeing at 5k rpm.

Why would you remove the guides? Maybe you just need to replace them with new ones since your chain is making metal to metal contact...that and maybe a low oil pressure giving the chain some extra slack.

[locoluna825]

I dont see how he would have perfect compression if his oil pump wasnt working adequatley. I say you buy a oil pressure guage. and see whats going on with your oil pressure while its running.

[ixfxi]

When I start the car though the oil light stays on for about 30 seconds unless I rev it some. The only thing keeping me from replacing the oil pump is the cost, I figured I might as well replace it since I'm gonna have it off anyways but do I really need it?

Age 17.


First id replace the oil pressure sensor. If that doesn't work, replace the oil pump.

Age 19. Slightly better advice, but still not there yet. Rather than replace the sensor, buy a real oil pressure gauge.


I searched before I made this and people were saying it comes on under 8 psi. Once the car has run for a lil it's never to be seen again so I'm kinda thinkin that the sensor is good..

Dont search and listen to hear-say off a bullshit forum, buy/download an FSM. You need more experience before jumping head-first into motors and internals.


I dont see how he would have perfect compression if his oil pump wasnt working adequatley.

Age 20, still way off. Compression has nothing to do with oil pressure.


30 seconds is not a few seconds...if your light takes more than 5 seconds to go away after startup, <cut> there is something seriously fucked in the engine.


Not 17-20 years old, much better advice from a veteran.

FYI, oil pumps are not expensive, a few hundred and you're done. Remember, an oil pump is VITAL. Lack of oil pressure for a few seconds can damage a motor. You ever run out of lube while vigorously working on yourself or your partner at 6,500 rpms? Try it and let us know what happens. :-P

[thefro526]

FYI, oil pumps are not expensive, a few hundred and you're done. Remember, an oil pump is VITAL. Lack of oil pressure for a few seconds can damage a motor. You ever run out of lube while vigorously working on yourself or your partner at 6,500 rpms? Try it and let us know what happens. :-P

Interestingly enough, I was messing around with my SOHC one day and noticed my oil pressure light came on around 6000-6500 RPM. I said 'F*** it' and drove at 6250 for about 15 seconds.

I drove home with a rod knock.

Moral of the story: If your oil light ever stays lit longer than a few seconds (and I mean sub 5-8 seconds) at start up, it's worth changing the oil pump. If you know that your motor has seen a lack of oil for extended periods of time (15 seconds or more) then you should probably rip the motor apart and look for damage, or if you can get away with it - replace it.

[[email protected]]

I had the oil filter blow off on my SR in my apt parking lot. Idled for maybe 8-10 seconds before I noticed my gauge dropping. Killed the engine then towed it to the shop. Went ahead and had it torn down and sure enough I had 1 main bearing and 1 rod bearing showing slight wear, not bad but still wasn't going to put them back in. Replaced all my bearings, polished the crank and called it good.

Oil pressure isn't something to overlook because of cost. If you have any doubts it's best to just fix the issue and not worry about it anymore

Regards,
Robert

[pacotaco345]

Okay, well I kinda exaggerated with the 30 second remark, comes with my age flame all you want but ya. I timed it today when I started the car and it was 5-6 seconds before the light went off. Also, I'm pretty sure if my oil pressure was as bad as some are making it out to be I would have a spun rod bearing by now (its been 6 months and 2 events). AND @ixfxi, I admit I don't know everything but I'm not a dumbass, I mean that in the most respectful way possible. For instance, I've built multiple V8's and I would just build a whole ka right now if I had the time and money to, but seeing that I'm leaving for college in less than a month it's not an option. I also spent over 2 months prepping and painting my car, with base/clear, not rattlecans, and get compliments on it all the time. Thanks to everyone who has given a relevant response though, hopefully now with this information also someone can narrow it down.

[hektik13]

just replace your oil pump and its normal for the oil light to come on at start up cause when the motors off oil drops back down to the oil pan so basically on cold start there is the oil in the passages and takes time to get pressure up to it your car sounds fine to me dude redo timing and you should be set but you have to take the front timing cover off anyways to do the timing so you might aswell replace the pump and cover since its one whole unit at most front cover/pump assembly cost like 70/75 bucks just do the oil pump get a new one but sounds like your car is fine

[pacotaco345]

Okay thanks, looks like I'm gonna be ordering a oil pump tonight.

[ixfxi]

fyi, if its any help to you guys.... i went through maybe 4-5 oil pumps with my KA24E. when you hit high speeds and are cornering the oil sloshes away from the pickup. there were times that after hitting some heavy turns, i would hear my lifters knocking after the turn. i would pull over, idle for a bit.. it would go away, then carry on driving. a bit of this and the oil pump would be trashed. this is how you know you need a baffled oil pan, when you push your car to that particular limit

and here you're complaining about ONE oil pump. change the fucking pump, move on.

[pacotaco345]

and here you're complaining about ONE oil pump. change the fucking pump, move on.

I already ordered one, thanks for the advice though.. On another note someone decided to break into my car last night and steal the faceplate off my radio, so looks like I'm gonna be needing one of those too. :(

[locoluna825]

fyi, if its any help to you guys.... i went through maybe 4-5 oil pumps with my KA24E. when you hit high speeds and are cornering the oil sloshes away from the pickup. there were times that after hitting some heavy turns, i would hear my lifters knocking after the turn. i would pull over, idle for a bit.. it would go away, then carry on driving. a bit of this and the oil pump would be trashed. this is how you know you need a baffled oil pan, when you push your car to that particular limit

and here you're complaining about ONE oil pump. change the fucking pump, move on.

I my self have bought a new oil pump on my ka24e hoping that similar issues would go away. and intalled a oil pressure gauge to monitor whats going on when it starts acting up. It helped. but didnt do as much as I expected. Takes a little longer than it should on start up to build pressure than it should. and when the car gets warm enough to make the oil thiner the rockers start bleeding out. I ordered a HV oil pump last week and am eagerly wiating for its arrival. Im gonna try that out and see how much less my NEW timing chain rattles and hydro rockers bleed out. Xcessive performance makes a baffle you can add to the ka24e Im very interested in it.

[pacotaco345]

Okay one last question, I have the parts coming and they should be here Tuesday at the latest. My original plan was to leave the motor in the car while I change all of this stuff, but yesterday I kinda opened my hood and took a good look at what I would have to do and it kinda scared me. I've pulled the motor from the car twice before and was wondering what you guys think would be easier. If I did pull the motor I'd just pull the whole motor/tranny and leave it on the cherry picker while I remove the oil pan/valve cover/timing cover/oil pump.

[locoluna825]

You can do it leaving the the motor in the car. It is easier with it out though... you can see what your doing and have infinite room. But I dont know if it wuld take longer having to pull it out and then changing it. over leaving it in.

[rcdad123]

what i would do if i was in your position is pull the engine out, check the clearances of the rod and main bearings, take the oil pump apart and see if it`s badly scored/damaged. from my experience, low oil pressure is usually caused by excessive engine bearing clearance. i would also check the timing chain tensioners and make sure they are not scored or damaged. make sure the pad that touches the chain is not to thin, if it is, replace the tensioner. also install all of the chain guides back in. get a decent mechanical oil pressure gauge(you can get one for about 40 bucks) so you can monitor the oil pressure while you are driving. i would also use thicker oil. good luck.

[pacotaco345]

what i would do if i was in your position is pull the engine out, check the clearances of the rod and main bearings, take the oil pump apart and see if it`s badly scored/damaged. from my experience, low oil pressure is usually caused by excessive engine bearing clearance. i would also check the timing chain tensioners and make sure they are not scored or damaged. make sure the pad that touches the chain is not to thin, if it is, replace the tensioner. also install all of the chain guides back in. get a decent mechanical oil pressure gauge(you can get one for about 40 bucks) so you can monitor the oil pressure while you are driving. i would also use thicker oil. good luck.

Thanks everyone for your input, the timing kit that I bought comes with all new guides and tensioners so I should be ok on that. I planned on checking the clearances, hopefully they'll be fine but who knows, and the gauge is a good idea, ill probably go pick one up..

[ixfxi]

Okay one last question, I have the parts coming and they should be here Tuesday at the latest. My original plan was to leave the motor in the car while I change all of this stuff, but yesterday I kinda opened my hood and took a good look at what I would have to do and it kinda scared me. I've pulled the motor from the car twice before and was wondering what you guys think would be easier. If I did pull the motor I'd just pull the whole motor/tranny and leave it on the cherry picker while I remove the oil pan/valve cover/timing cover/oil pump.

paco

i dont recommend doing work while a motor is dangling on the picker. this is what an engine stand is for.

[pacotaco345]

paco

i dont recommend doing work while a motor is dangling on the picker. this is what an engine stand is for.

ya after i posted that i realized how stupid that was.. my whole reason for that was so i wouldn't have to pull the tranny off. i'm just gonna set the motor mounts on 2 jackstands and the end of the tranny on a couple cinderblocks.. seems safer lol