1 Piece Driveshaft Decisions

[Kr240sx]

So I am gonna order a 1 piece driveshaft for the VLSD im swapping in since the old DS is beat. The aluminum is 5 lbs lighter and only $50 more but I have heard it has more flex and can be noisy compared to the Steel. And although the Steel is heavier (less power free'd up) I heard its stiffness can result in a more responsive or snappy feeling. Can anyone who has used these give me some feedback, advice or suggestions? Thanks guys

[EsChassisLove]

Go with steel. Even though you will probably never make enough torque to really flex an aluminum DS. JUST in case you do, the steel DS is "snappier" so to speak.

I have the steel. Def helps transfer more torque to the wheels.

[Kr240sx]

Could you feel the difference right away after installing it? Thanks for your input

[Edwin562]

Could you feel the difference right away after installing it? Thanks for your input
from friends who do have a 1 piece DS, they have told me car is way more responsive... and its a worthy of an upgrade.

[theboy]

whats your intentions for the car? Are you racing it on a track? What motor/trans are you running? How long do you plan to run them? VLSD are garbage. Your better off welding your open.

Also, an aluminum drive shaft, if made correctly should have 0 flex and be lighter than steel. It should also feel better than a steel shaft. Theres no real point to go one piece if the car is a daily driver.

[Kr240sx]

Well it is just a street car now my daily driver only in the summer. Eventually it will only be a weekend or nice day car once I get out of school and buy another daily. I still have the stock ka24e which will be swapped out for an SR in a year or so. The VLSD came out of another 240 which I drove and it locks up fantastic, once it dies I will shim it or get a tomei to drop in.

the reason Im going 1 piece is the fact that I have already done suspension and now am working on driveline, trying to make my car the best it can without putting money into the motor setup I will eventually be swapping. This driveshaft will be beneficial now and when I swap my car, thats how I see it.

Plus, i need a driveshaft regardless so I may as well replace it with a quality aftermarket piece.

[Edwin562]

^ Can you recall if these friends had steel or aluminum Driveshafts?
sorry about that, most of them who have a 1 pc had aluminum.

[theboy]

Well it is just a street car now my daily driver only in the summer. Eventually it will only be a weekend or nice day car once I get out of school and buy another daily. I still have the stock ka24e which will be swapped out for an SR in a year or so. The VLSD came out of another 240 which I drove and it locks up fantastic, once it dies I will shim it or get a tomei to drop in.

the reason Im going 1 piece is the fact that I have already done suspension and now am working on driveline, trying to make my car the best it can without putting money into the motor setup I will eventually be swapping. This driveshaft will be beneficial now and when I swap my car, thats how I see it.

Plus, i need a driveshaft regardless so I may as well replace it with a quality aftermarket piece.


you do realize that the drive shaft for the ka and the drive shaft for the sr are different? So youll be spending the money for a drive shaft twice. Why do you "need" a new drive shaft? Your seriously better off finding a better used one than yours and then spending the money when you do the swap. But its not my money so you do what you want with it.

[Kr240sx]

Different lengths? I was 99% sure they are the same length.

And secondly, My old driveshaft is beat and the bushing has exploded. So I need to fix this one or buy another one, and with that being said I would rather spend the extra money on something that would be beneficial to my car then an old sloppy 2 piece. But it does not matter I dont need to convince you why I "need" one it is my decision, my money, and my car.

[Edwin562]

Different lengths? I was 99% sure they are the same length.

And secondly, My old driveshaft is beat and the bushing has exploded. So I need to fix this one or buy another one, and with that being said I would rather spend the extra money on something that would be beneficial to my car then an old sloppy 2 piece. But it does not matter I dont need to convince you why I "need" one it is my decision, my money, and my car.
agreed, when i swapped in my SR on my coupe. i used the KA DS on my SR and it handled great, no leaks....

[Kr240sx]

And theboy, I hate to make assumptions but so far you have only insisted on me welding my diff and 2 remain with a stock 2 piece driveshaft. You and me must have different mindsets because my car willl never get a ghetto welded diff or an old ass driveshaft, I am looking to obtain something of QUALITY not simply getting the car going at the cheapest and make-shift way. No offense but I would say this is the reasoning for our different opinions.

[EsChassisLove]

Haha if its a ka just get a stocker.

Edit..Nvm...same length. Get a DS from the Ds shop :)

[Edwin562]

And theboy, I hate to make assumptions but so far you have only insisted on me welding my diff and 2 remain with a stock 2 piece driveshaft. You and me must have different mindsets because my car willl never get a ghetto welded diff or an old ass driveshaft, I am looking to obtain something of QUALITY not simply getting the car going at the cheapest and make-shift way. No offense but I would say this is the reasoning for our different opinions.
well said...

[Kr240sx]

Shaftmasters is a better price and cheaper shipping so I think I will go with them, any one using one notice better gas mileage or any noises? Thanks

[Edwin562]

Here is a link for shaftmasters for the 240sx category.

Nissan 240SX Driveshaft Replacement (http://shaftmasters.com/nissan-240sx-drivesha240.html)

and here is for the Driveshaft shop

The Driveshaft Shop | Nissan - Import Driveshafts (http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/nissan)

i say price wise, they are pretty much in the same ball park.. but The driveshaft shop is a bit more expensive... i seen more positive feedback on The driveshaft shop DS and i never heard of shaftmasters... so me personally i would go The driveshaft shop.

[Tkwjh07]

I just installed a 1pc stell ds from shaftmaster, i like it, it feels alot better than stock, alot lighter than stock too but not as light as the aluminum. I wanted to go with the aluminum but shaftmaster told me there was a 2 month wait on the aluminum so i went with steel only because my ds was really beaten up.

[Kr240sx]

I have been put on a waiting list to get my Aluminum Driveshaft from Shaft masters. But I am reading up on shimming my vlsd, maybe just a new stock size shim or a little bigger, anyone have any input on shimming?

[bladetech8]

I bought a ShaftMasters (SM) 1pc aluminum drive shaft back in Oct' 09 and been running it since in my S13 (weekend mountain carver). It's definitely a quality piece equivalent to the quality you get from the DriveShaft Shop (DSS). You'll get replaceable 1310 series u-joints on the SM driveshafts, but you don't get the re-greaseable zerk fittings that come on the DSS units. That being said, I didn't think regreasable fittings was that necessary; personally I'd just replace the u-joints down the road with 1310 series SPICER ones.


Performance-wise, you will feel and notice first off is a more freely revving motor, especially when applying more than 50% throttle. You won't gain any HP/TQ, but you will feel the rev's climb a tiny bit quicker when laying the hammer down. Also the responsiveness of the power delivery is quite noticeably different. The car feels so much more responsive inbetween on/off throttle applications (e.g. mid-drift or out of corner acceleration).

Comfort-wise, you'll definitely hear the driveline a lot more.. It sounds like a secondary exhaust note that gets louder as the rev's climb. I can hear the diff gears meshing at bit more and I can now hear the backlash in the diff when on and off the throttle. It's very subtle but I can hear everything thanks to the subframe collars and polyurethane subframe bushings. I love performance-oriented sounds so I don't mind at all. If you're concerned about having a smooth and quiet ride, then don't get a 1pc driveshaft. Hence why Nissan didn't put one in there stock. :)

[Kr240sx]

^ Thanks a lot for the response man I really appreciate the input, I am deffinetly getting an Aluminum one from ShaftMasters when it is ready. Sound isn't too much of an Issue and if it is ill turn the radio up!

[drift freaq]

you do realize that the drive shaft for the ka and the drive shaft for the sr are different?
:picardfp:
I guess you did not know or realize the driveshaft for the KA can be interchanged with the SR. S13 SR will fit S13 KA same as S14SR will S14KA.

They are exactly the same length and have the same input splines. The only real difference is the s13 KA driveshaft has the funny big old rubber coupler for extra damping and the S13 SR one did not.

If you are going to post info post correct info.

[Tantwoforty]

have you ever thought of junkyarding a long steel 1 piece from a econo van and having a shop cut it and put your ends on it?
you can find a alu one to...

its cheap as hell..

[Kr240sx]

^ No I have not, but to be honest this is a piece i will hold on to for the duration of my 240's life, So to me it is a worthy investment. Plus wouldn't balancing be an issue? Still trying to figure out if I want to shim this vlsd, gonna make a new post soon..........

[bladetech8]

:D np!

Yeah I'd definitely wouldn't mind the wait to get the aluminum one for sure. Never cared enough about gas mileage on my 240, so I have no comment on that one. :)

While you're waiting, I'd order a new rear main seal from Nissan for your tranny. It's a good idea to change it out while your down there and while the driveshaft is out. You should also change out the fluid too unless you've done it already in the last year or so.. My recommendation is Motul GEAR 300 75W90 (100% Ester-based Synthetic) if you want the highest quality stuff or Motul MOTYLGEAR 75W90 (SYNTHETIC BLEND) second best stuff for a cheaper price. If either of those are too much bank for you, then whatever you do don't use Redline MT90, that $#!t sucks major a$$. Made my trans notchy when warm and grind 2nd slightly when cold. Could've been just my trans too..

[bladetech8]

have you ever thought of junkyarding a long steel 1 piece from a econo van and having a shop cut it and put your ends on it?
you can find a alu one to...

its cheap as hell..

:facepalm:

That also sounds ghetto as hell.. LOL :keke:

I'd just pay the $$ to get it done right once and not worry about it ever again..

[Tantwoforty]

:facepalm:

That also sounds ghetto as hell.. LOL :keke:

I'd just pay the $$ to get it done right once and not worry about it ever again..

how is it ghetto?
its pretty much your bringing the shop the materials.
the shop will balance it and ensure its right. they put it on a big ass machine and spin it at some crazy high rpm..
they build driveshafts all day.
if anything, its less ghetto than buying a "driveshaftshop.com" one
as this one was not mass produced.
it was made by a dude who dose this all day..
we ran one on a 750hp ttz32 with no problems at all
dont get me wrong.. you get a shitty shop and your fucked..
but a skillful crafstmen>mass produced

[Kr240sx]

^Sounds like a lot of time/work to make that happen. Time is money so I will just order the aluminum DS, Good call on the trans fluid and rear main seal. Im all over it. Now just diff decisions, I know my VLSD works but the shims could make it awesome........

[Tantwoforty]

no. you mesure from your tranny to your diff plate.
you go find a suitable shaft.
you spend 30 bucks buying it and 20 min pulling it.
you can sawzall it off if you want to.
then you go to the shop. bring him your stock shaft and the new one.
you pay him
you pick it up 1-2 days later.
you save like $200
you win.
ive done it
it works
you people and your i gotta spend money problems lol

and the shop warrentys it for like ever if it vibrates.. bring your car in, they will fix it, free.

i mean, if you have the money. may as well just spend it on the one you want.
its just a thought :)

[bladetech8]

I like the way you format your responses. It looks cool! Reminds me of a poem format or something lol.

You have a valid point and that's definitely a great 'thinking outsidethe box' way to get it done. That being said, some people would probably love to go that route and kinda DIY, and some people just want it fabricated at a shop and shipped to their door as one complete unit. Either way.. Oh and I was just joking about it being ghetto. Didn't mean to offend anyone. :)

[Tantwoforty]

it helps me think lol
i hear ya, it is kinda ghetto i guess.
any option is going to pretty much do the same thing

the shop one ends up costing like 280.. so you dont save that much.. but it will work just as well..
i snapped the nut off the inside of my center support bearing.. so i have to go 1 piece.. boo lol
money i dont want to spend on that right now

[Tkwjh07]

When I installed the driveshaft I changed my main seal, and put new mt90 gear oils in, feels like a completely different car. I can't believe how much 400 dollars can do if u spend it right

[Rafa-Z]

dude I dont know why you think welding is ghetto if anything it's less ghetto than shimming and it lasts longer too if done correctly. I had a nismo 2 way and it's the same shit as my welded except they need to have the oil changed a lot more frequently than a welded. Plus its true VLSDs are horrible especially on water.

I've been tracking and daily driving it for 2 years now and have 260whp on my sr and there is absolutely no problem with it and its bs that they drive funny or that you will fall off of a cliff or whatever stories they tell.

But if buying everything from a BRAND NAME and paying more gives you piece of mind than by all means do it. There is no problem with that.

I had a 1 piece aluminum shaft on my 300zx N/A and the response is a lot faster. You can hear them humming but I never had any vibrations. Now this car was not for drifting which is what I do now with my s13 so I'm also debating on either getting a 1 piece steel or aluminum. I kept my aluminum from my old 300zx and measured it and it was the same length as the s13 and I found the yolk that will fit into the s13 tranny. But I still dont know if I should use steel or aluminum for my application.

[Tantwoforty]

i need to change out my seal, it leaks like a whore. i have a new one i just haven't done it..

[SLiDe_WaYz]

:D np!

Yeah I'd definitely wouldn't mind the wait to get the aluminum one for sure. Never cared enough about gas mileage on my 240, so I have no comment on that one. :)

While you're waiting, I'd order a new rear main seal from Nissan for your tranny. It's a good idea to change it out while your down there and while the driveshaft is out. You should also change out the fluid too unless you've done it already in the last year or so.. My recommendation is Motul GEAR 300 75W90 (100% Ester-based Synthetic) if you want the highest quality stuff or Motul MOTYLGEAR 75W90 (SYNTHETIC BLEND) second best stuff for a cheaper price. If either of those are too much bank for you, then whatever you do don't use Redline MT90, that $#!t sucks major a$$. Made my trans notchy when warm and grind 2nd slightly when cold. Could've been just my trans too..

What redline MT are you using. Mine works perfectly fine no complaints at all here. Never heard any complaints about mt90 in a SR trans.

[AutechKouki]

I have an aluminum DSS driveshaft on my car mated to my kaaz 2way, stock kade engine. Snappy feeling? Not a dramatic feel versus my buddy's car. Noisy? No, if it makes noise or causes a whole car vibration it needs proper balancing.
One piece aluminum compared to the steel will be the same, only difference is weight (clearly) and that the steel will break tires loose more easily. But if you're running stock and will go SR what are your plans? high power? mild power? Choose something you feel you'll need. I know of people running stockies being turbo.
And yeah VLSD's are cool if you don't like your slides being predictable.
Quick check on DSS website puts the aluminum abs at $480 and steel at $350, shipping not included. Stockies average at around $50. Only reason I have mine is because I have high power plans and got mine CHEEEAAP. Only $150.

[Rafa-Z]

yeah I got mine for about 80 bucks since thats how much it will cost me to modify the 300zx one. My question is, do you notice a big difference when sliding? I have no problems drifting with the stock DS but since I have the aluminum one and have plans for more power then I am thinking about it.

[AutechKouki]

I would say it breaks loose faster than stockie since momentum isn't lost at the center piece.

[codyace]

have you ever thought of junkyarding a long steel 1 piece from a econo van and having a shop cut it and put your ends on it?
you can find a alu one to...

its cheap as hell..

I'm going to disagree here at the process, not so much the concept. I know it 'can work' but think about reality

1. You need to find a shaft thaft has U joints that will interchange with the slip Yoke used on the 240.

2. You also need to address the rear flange as well.

So while it may only cost 15-30 bucks to find a 'used' driveshaft, you're going to spend another 30-40 dollars for the front slip yoke, and another 20-30 for the rear flange. Also gonna spend another 10-30 bucks in U joints as well. So now w'ere around 100-130 bucks in parts alone. Now you gotta measure (not hard, just time), and goto a shop that specialized in drivetrains to cut/weld/balance the entire assembly for you. Figure at a minimum this is going to cost 100-150 bucks.

With all of that in mind, where are you saving money again? Even if you err on the 'small end' of costs, it's still going to be darn near the cost of a new steel one piece.


Trust me when I say, I know it's possible (your process) but I also am realistic at the total cost of it all, and the time as well. To me, saving a few bucks isn't worth the total time to make it all 'work'.

[codyace]

With this all said, I do have a Driveshaft Shop 1 piece steel in my S14. It was not balanced well from them, and even with flipping it on the rear flange, and switching it's relationship with the trans too, it still had a horrible vibration. I took it to the shop that does our big truck driveshafts and they rebalanced it, and it's been fine ever since. I sent an email to driveshaft shop about it, and that I had it rebalanced by a shop. They were not very happy about me having it balanced by my shop, and said the warrenty on it would now by void. They suggested that I should have taken it out, shipped it back, had it 'fixed' and then had it shipped back...sorry DSS i'm not waiting 2-3 weeks for your product when I had it back up and running in 2.

Would I buy a DSS shaft again? Hard to say. Fitment was obviously perfect, but the product was not....and their return policy sucks, especially when a Spicer shop rebalances it for me.



In regard to 'feel' or 'power' I can be honest that I didn't feel a damn thing with my car at all...not even in the 'seat of the pants'. However It was a worthwhile upgrade for me, considering my factory U joint failed, and I wanted to upgrade to domestic sized U joints.

[TypeXFan]

:D np!

Yeah I'd definitely wouldn't mind the wait to get the aluminum one for sure. Never cared enough about gas mileage on my 240, so I have no comment on that one. :)

While you're waiting, I'd order a new rear main seal from Nissan for your tranny. It's a good idea to change it out while your down there and while the driveshaft is out. You should also change out the fluid too unless you've done it already in the last year or so.. My recommendation is Motul GEAR 300 75W90 (100% Ester-based Synthetic) if you want the highest quality stuff or Motul MOTYLGEAR 75W90 (SYNTHETIC BLEND) second best stuff for a cheaper price. If either of those are too much bank for you, then whatever you do don't use Redline MT90, that $#!t sucks major a$$. Made my trans notchy when warm and grind 2nd slightly when cold. Could've been just my trans too..


dude Redline MT-90 made my trans run so much smoother.

[Tantwoforty]

I'm going to disagree here at the process, not so much the concept. I know it 'can work' but think about reality

1. You need to find a shaft thaft has U joints that will interchange with the slip Yoke used on the 240.

2. You also need to address the rear flange as well.

So while it may only cost 15-30 bucks to find a 'used' driveshaft, you're going to spend another 30-40 dollars for the front slip yoke, and another 20-30 for the rear flange. Also gonna spend another 10-30 bucks in U joints as well. So now w'ere around 100-130 bucks in parts alone. Now you gotta measure (not hard, just time), and goto a shop that specialized in drivetrains to cut/weld/balance the entire assembly for you. Figure at a minimum this is going to cost 100-150 bucks.

With all of that in mind, where are you saving money again? Even if you err on the 'small end' of costs, it's still going to be darn near the cost of a new steel one piece.


Trust me when I say, I know it's possible (your process) but I also am realistic at the total cost of it all, and the time as well. To me, saving a few bucks isn't worth the total time to make it all 'work'.
logic win..
although the dude i called said he could use my old driveshaft and so long as i bring him one of the same diameter he could do it for 180... but its still easier and probably cheaper to just buy one lol
just a neat idea

[Kr240sx]

seems like there are a lot of mixxed reviews on this item, some say they can certainly feel the difference while others say it doesn't do a damn thing. hmmmmmm

[Kr240sx]

My power plans over the next 2-3 years will probably range between 250-300. Would you guys say its worth the extra money for the aluminum? or will I be just the same with the steel? Would people also agree that the steel breaks the tires easier? Thanks for your suggestions and feedback.

[92lt1]

im guessing you have an s13? if not heres one for sale...http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/393517-ka24de-1pc-driveshaft-apexi-exhaust.html

[gripster]

Sorry to bump up an old thread, but here's my scenario.

I've spoken to 2 guys who autox their ae86 corollas. They DO NOT drift. The subject of 1-piece driveshafts came up and they both said that the 1-piece is hard to balance. So they are sticking with the factory 2-piece setups. Keep in mind, they have live rear axles, so the driveshaft moves up/down with the axle.

Now, I autox my car -- I DO NOT drift. I need to get my trans rebuild, and would like to get a 1-piece DS as well. But I'm worried about vibrations. How many here have had to get their 1-piece DS rebalanced out of the box. I'm looking at the steel DriveShaft Shop 1 piece.

My car:

Stock sohc KA
5MT
J30 lsd

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[ghoti]

Now, I autox my car -- I DO NOT drift. I need to get my trans rebuild, and would like to get a 1-piece DS as well. But I'm worried about vibrations. How many here have had to get their 1-piece DS rebalanced out of the box. I'm looking at the steel DriveShaft Shop 1 piece.

My car:

Stock sohc KA
5MT
J30 lsd

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

I would say get it. I got one back when I had the same set up as you.
I was also worried about vibrations but I feel the one piece is a lot smoother than the stock 2piece.

I now have the 1piece steel DS with DriftFreaq's solid mounts and a SPEC stage 3 clutch and I don't have any vibrations.
Though I know the "diff ear" bushings on my J30 diff are gone. I know ShaftMasters can rebalance the DS free of charge,
you just have to pay for shipping in which case it would be cheaper to find a local spot that can do it for you.

[Big Zee]

I have a DSS Steel 1 piece also, I got it so I could get rid of the steady bearing.
I don't drift very often, mostly just a once in a while corner.
r200 diff with Cusco 2 way and 4.08
stock SR trans
RPS street clutch
Nismo motor and trans mounts

I don't feel any vibrations from the drive line idling or driving around.

I say get it, the quality is very nice and overall a good buy IMO

[Blk96t]

Just installed shaft masters 1 piece aluminum shaft.
I have a s14 w/ kaaz 2way and bout 265whp sr20
I think it made it a lot snappier. 0 vibration or noises. Broke tires loose a bit easier. Haven't drifted it yet,
You do have to trim the rubber collar on end of transmission
Shaft masters is a worthy upgrade
It makes no sense that a steel shaft would break tires loose easier than aluminum. IT'S just common sense....

[tapdeznutz]

just throwing my recent experience on this matter. I just picked up a used 1pc steel no name from another member on here. My first impression was visually the 1pc i picked up was about 1/2" shorter than my OEM non-abs 5 spd DS. It was a concern but i installed it anyways. Its been in for about 2 months now and there is some additional sound on decel in gear and lots more in decel in neutral. It seem to help the entire RPM range but more so in the low to mid range.

I do question the noise i am hearing and wonder if it needs a speed balance. I did check for any type of play from the u-joints and did not feel any. Anyways, mods i have are: Stock Ka24E with Grounding Kit, Intake, Headers, 2.5" resonated test pipe to 2/5" HKS HiPower exhaust, and ASP Aluminum crank pulley.

[Mikester]

^^Pop it out, flip it 180* and bolt it back up... Sounds crazy but it's worth a shot... DSS puts this on their website- sometimes it works; and as Cody Ace said, sometimes it doesn't. Aside from that, you may have to have it balanced.

I noticed the noisiness with my DSS aluminum... Not a single bit of extra revving, pickup etc. In my case, I am building for power & have systematically refurbished the entire underbody; and additionally, going to the 1-piece merely eliminated a potential point of failure (carrier bearing) from the equation.

I wouldn't call it an 'investment' if you aren't building the car to handle the amount of torque these things are designed to be able to take. I beat the living shit out of my 350+hp 180SX week after week- never had a single issue with the 2-piece.

[jr_ss]

I had to have a u-joint replaced and have my DSS 1-piece rebalanced after a few thousand miles of use. I called them and explained the situation just as Cody did and got the same reply. However, I asked for reembursment of the cost of rebalance, obviously that didn't get me anywhere. I'm sorry, I'm not sending back the shaft to have them do something a local shop can do in minimal downtime.

I generally have my shaft rebalanced every time it is out of my car just for peace of mind. I know I know, it doesn't need to be, but I think of the shaft expanding and contracting with temperature changes(which in Fl winters can be quite drastic) and not always being bolted up(I.e. laying around on uneven surfaces or not propped up vertically).

I now have a Mazworx driveshaft with my VG trans, which for all I know could've come from DSS.

[tapdeznutz]

thanks for feedback JR_SS and Mikester. I will give the 180 thing a shot and report back. What does a rebalance run anyways?

I mainly wanted to go with the lighter DS for MPG. Was hoping it would give me like at least 0.5MPG or so, call me stupid but that was my reason. Same for when i did my aluminum crank pulley, it gave me +1mpg maybe more if i just do Hwy driving only but with my current mixed driving of 50% stop and go LA traffic and 50% when traffic opens up, etc. I did know it freed up the revs a bit. I guess on a NA car every 1hp or so goes along ways:) I will report back on the MPG benefit if there is any or not.

[jr_ss]

Depending on the shop between $75 and $125 atleast down here.

[tapdeznutz]

just throwing my recent experience on this matter. I just picked up a used 1pc steel no name from another member on here. My first impression was visually the 1pc i picked up was about 1/2" shorter than my OEM non-abs 5 spd DS. It was a concern but i installed it anyways. Its been in for about 2 months now and there is some additional sound on decel in gear and lots more in decel in neutral. It seem to help the entire RPM range but more so in the low to mid range.

I do question the noise i am hearing and wonder if it needs a speed balance. I did check for any type of play from the u-joints and did not feel any. Anyways, mods i have are: Stock Ka24E with Grounding Kit, Intake, Headers, 2.5" resonated test pipe to 2/5" HKS HiPower exhaust, and ASP Aluminum crank pulley.

Just an update to my situation. I originally thought i have a 1pc abs DS rather than the non-abs that i supposedly purchased. I reason i say that is because i just upgraded to a j30 jiff with 5 bolt axles. The extra noises I was hearing have gone away but now i am starting to get grinding which i think is dis-engagement of the DS and the Transmission. I sent and email to ShaftMasters for help and they are asking me to take 2 measurements which i will try to do later today and get back to them. I now have no idea what DS i have. Fawk Zilvians for selling F'ed up parts man...what is this community coming too...anyways will report back :)

[BlewByYou]

This is common sense. Alum!!! period. Factory cars come with Alum now and even carbon Fiber..

Your making how much power? 300hp 500hp 1200hp, How about Promod cars that make 2500hp? Wonder if theirs is Alum? YES :)

Alum isnt the question here, Its how big DIA. the Shaft is.

Anything over 600hp go with a 4" Dia.

It all comes down to "do they know how to fab a shaft properly"

[sleepyS14se]

I have decided to go with the shaftmasters.com 1 pc steel shaft (non abs) and im putting a spool in my rear end

[WOTandSDWYS]

Had an enjuku ally drives haft a couple 240s ago. Was a ridiculously good improvement and will be a purchase on my new knew as well. Coupled with a fidanza flywheel and the whole set of unorthodox underdrive pulleys that they used to make was just awesome. It did have quite a lot more driveline noise afterwards but who cares.

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