Sr20 redtop running extremely rich, car stutters

[Tkwjh07]

Hi, I am recently really new to turbo cars, I have a 93 sr20 red top. It has been running rich ever since I changed bov, it didn't have the issue before. The sidebands reads around 10-11 most of the time, then it will jump to 14 here and there. It stutters getting up to around 3k. But runs fine when I push it a little harder. I get a few backfire here and there. I haunt done anything yet I want to see what options out there that I could take.

It has 550cc injectors, 3871 turbo, walboro 255 fuel pump, running at 13psi, that is about all that is done to it besides suspension. Please help

[nismolvr]

You are better off installing OEM BOV back. The Engine is running rich because OEM BOV sytem is recirculated.You are using an open vent BOV for F&F sound. This is venting measured Air by MAF and throwing off AF ratio on deceleration and idle. (closing throttle immediatly after boost)and causing your car to run rich and die .The ECU doesnt know you just vented measured air and keeps same injector pulse , thus causing rich situation. Install stock BOV . Or if you still want F&F sound with added attention get a Super AFC by apexi and set up deccel settings .

[Speed Junky]

You are better off installing OEM BOV back. The Engine is running rich because OEM BOV sytem is recirculated.You are using an open vent BOV for F&F sound. This is venting measured Air by MAF and throwing off AF ratio on deceleration and idle. (closing throttle immediatly after boost)and causing your car to run rich and die .The ECU doesnt know you just vented measured air and keeps same injector pulse , thus causing rich situation. Install stock BOV . Or if you still want F&F sound with added attention get a Super AFC by apexi and set up deccel settings .

^^Yup

I'm having the same issue, but I decided to recirculate my Greddy BOV.

[KiLLeR2001]

Two options for you:

1. Maintain F&F furious sound and have the ECU tuned for an atmospheric BOV.

2. Recirculate BOV.

[nismolvr]

Hi, I am recently really new to turbo cars, I have a 93 sr20 red top. It has been running rich ever since I changed bov, it didn't have the issue before. The sidebands reads around 10-11 most of the time, then it will jump to 14 here and there. It stutters getting up to around 3k. But runs fine when I push it a little harder. I get a few backfire here and there. I haunt done anything yet I want to see what options out there that I could take.

It has 550cc injectors, 3871 turbo, walboro 255 fuel pump, running at 13psi, that is about all that is done to it besides suspension. Please helpim assuming you are using N62 MAFS with this great set up.It be a shame if you didnt,you didnt mention your engine management. Is it stock Ecu with a tune ? or standalone? If its standalone go back to your tuner let him make adjustment.Either way your going to have to retune for rich decceleration if you plan on Keeping the vented BOV.Forget about super AFC, I mentioned earlier.

[Tkwjh07]

It already had a greedy type rs bov, but it kept surging, so I gotten a new one and replaced it, but when the old one was on there it was running right. So I replaced it, no more surge but it ran really rich, it has a enthalpy tuned ecu, I have a n62 mafs

[nismolvr]

It already had a greedy type rs bov, but it kept surging, so I gotten a new one and replaced it, but when the old one was on there it was running right. So I replaced it, no more surge but it ran really rich, it has a enthalpy tuned ecu, I have a n62 mafs
but adaptor and recirculate = cheaper fix.
retune = gona cost more...

[Tkwjh07]

I'll give that a shot before I start replacing everything else, but why should I recirculate it when it was just the same type of bov as before?

[nismolvr]

I'll give that a shot before I start replacing everything else, but why should I recirculate it when it was just the same type of bov as before?
Dont really know maybe weaker spring internal damage , bad diaphragm, who knows. You fixed surge, thats great .Your turbo will thank you for it.

[Tkwjh07]

The spring is all the way loose, could that be the issue?

[nismolvr]

The spring is all the way loose, could that be the issue?
No, now were talking two diferent things. the BOV you have now is adjustable. Having it on lowest spring tension setting means it will open faster. ideal for recirculated system,You want this it will protect turbo.

It might stay open a little when idling sience you have it a lowest setting .Remember theres manifold vacuum @ BOV when throttle is closed even at idle.This would not matter if you had it recirculated!

You can try adjusing spring tension a little amount at a time untill it closes and idles better. adjust untill you get it stoich ,read a/f ratios if you have wideband.NOTE -But you might experience surge a little now after a test drive, sience you are adding tension to spring and force it to close, it will be harder for vacuum signal to open BOV when you come off boost tho.
best thing is to leave it alone and
again all of this wouldnt matter if you had it recirculated.You will still be plaged with rich situation after BOV vents.

[Tkwjh07]

So I went to take a look at the intake, it look like the person before me replaced it because there is not a place for me to put the hose, should I weld one on or just buy another intake with it?

[westky240]

im not to sure about the problem witht the intake, seems you just need to get another.. But i had this same problem with the bov. I had a adjustable one also. The way i adjusted mine was at idle i looked in the bov and you can see a gap of where the air is being let out. Just adjust the valve so no more air is being released at idle. Try to adjust where it barely closes shut so you dont have surge. If you adust it too tight you will surge pretty bad, you have to find the sweet spot. You will also still run a little a rich but your car will never shut off and it will idle fine.

[nismolvr]

So I went to take a look at the intake, it look like the person before me replaced it because there is not a place for me to put the hose, should I weld one on or just buy another intake with it?
Your using an upgraded turbo , so I highly doubt your using the stock rubber MAF to turbo intake. You probably using custom metal piping, if this is the case have some one weld a 3/4 or 1" small pipe at an angle toward turbo . That way when pressure enters it wont blow upstream and disturb MAFS input readings.After fabricating this just run a hose from BOV to pipe.

[nismolvr]

The way i adjusted mine was at idle i looked in the bov and you can see a gap of where the air is being let out. Just adjust the valve so no more air is being released at idle. Try to adjust where it barely closes shut so you dont have surge. If you adust it too tight you will surge pretty bad, you have to find the sweet spot.
^^^^^^^
said it better than me .It would idle better, but you would still encounter rich condition upon coming off boost(shifting gears).It will run rich for a few seconds till a/f ratio returns to some what normal. I doubt it will stay on , sience your using larger injectors.

[Tkwjh07]

Does it matter how close or how far it needs to be or away from the maf? Or does it only matter it it's blowing away from the maf?

[Tkwjh07]

Im just gonna recirculate it, the sound is cool and everything, but it's getting annoying

[Tkwjh07]

Just got it done yesterday, fixed my stalling, stutterin and running rich issue but I lost 3lbs of boost, I use to be running around 13 now it's 10, I need to stop being lazy and hook up my greddy profec. Thanks to all the guys that help me out with this issue

[nismolvr]

Just got it done yesterday, fixed my stalling, stutterin and running rich issue but I lost 3lbs of boost, I use to be running around 13 now it's 10, I need to stop being lazy and hook up my greddy profec. Thanks to all the guys that help me out with this issue
Your MPG will improve.Wire up boost controller , now its your turn to help others.