View Full Version : S13 LCA bushing Replacement - w/o damage?
MrFairlady
06-10-2011, 08:40 PM
Looking to install S13 LCA's back on my car and I have new E/S bushings for them but from what I understand from a friend, using a press may crush the arm??
Is there a non-destructive way to remove the old ones with a press or maybe w/o??
Jukebox
06-10-2011, 08:57 PM
Burn em out w/ a propane torch is one way...
az_240
06-11-2011, 12:31 AM
Burn them out with torch and use a saw to cut the outer sleeve.
P.S. ES bushings in the LCAs is a bad idea.... Rubber or sphericals are best to avoid binding.
s14unimog
06-13-2011, 10:57 AM
^ If your traction arm is set up correctly, that should never been an issue.
The fronts can only be burned out since its the only ES bushing that retains the outer metal sleeve. READ THE DIRECTIONS (http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Energy_Suspension/17394.pdf).
az_240
06-13-2011, 06:29 PM
^What? ES bushings in the uprights/LCAs will bind no matter what. The poly material has too much friction to it and does not allow the inner metal sleeve to rotate freely when the suspension travels making the ride complete shit...even when they are well greased.
You are better off getting rubber Nismo bushings for the FLCAs... they are only like $10 each at the dealership. The Nismo RLCA bushings (s14) are near impossible to find these days though. I've been searching for the past 6 months for some at a reasonable price and have found nothing.
MrFairlady
06-13-2011, 06:52 PM
Burn them out with torch and use a saw to cut the outer sleeve.
P.S. ES bushings in the LCAs is a bad idea.... Rubber or sphericals are best to avoid binding.
honestly I've heard that same thing about the tension rod Bushings and Other Stuff (like J30Diff can't use standard D/S,etc etc) like that Truly plays the telephone game: ie. 1 or 2 people having a problem with something and It transforming into more extreme Issue.
Either way....Its gonna def be better than the bushing that's in this Turd!
READ THE DIRECTIONS (http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Energy_Suspension/17394.pdf).
I literally just saw the part about "using heat" to remove it.
just wanted to make sure before i trashed these things I spent so much time on welding/Boxing in and Cleaning.
az_240
06-13-2011, 07:04 PM
^Actually I'd rather have shitty stock bushings over ES any day if it's ever driven on the streets.
The ES tension rod bushings are built differently (3piece) and won't bind as bad.... they are still crap IMO.
DreamN
06-13-2011, 07:13 PM
herp derp moment...
az_240
06-13-2011, 07:20 PM
^No it's a 2 piece (not including the inner sleeve)... unless they came out with a new design.
DreamN
06-13-2011, 07:23 PM
Edit:
nevermind, i searched really quick. you're right bro.
K_style
06-13-2011, 09:18 PM
i just put one on my w14 yesterday due to this issue http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/390483-clunk-clunk-when-braking-s14.html.
I used butane torch to burn old bushing out and install new ones with C-clamp. You do not need press to install new bushing nor you don't even need to take the ball joint out.
Loosen bolts for LCA and tension rod and sway bar. thats all you need.
refer this one Energy Suspension Bushing Installation Guide (http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/energy-suspension-bushing-installation-guide.html)
s14unimog
06-14-2011, 02:33 PM
ya, the fronts go in without a press. If you do the rears however, you'll need an arbor press.
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