Guys with built/rebuilt motors...success rate?

[BlackZenkiS14]

How many of you guys are running on a built/rebuilt motor and have been for over a year?

Im getting nervous, cause my built motor didnt last me 8 months, mostly because of tuning im pretty sure, but for some reason I have a hard time finding other people who are running very successfully on a built/rebuilt motor for any kind of a time period. and I dont know why.

What does your built/rebuilt motor consist of? How many miles do you have on it? How much power are you making?

I want to know that other people have had longevity success with a built/rebuilt motor before I go and try this shit again...

[Memberofthe600hpkaclub]

Urhmm depends on the builder....my small and big build ka's have lasted along time...the new stock daily has 15k on the rebuild....and the big motor has about 7k over a yr or so

[camaro379ss]

I have a rebuilt motor on my 240...only has 2k so far but runs well. My b13 sentra was rebuilt and had 20k on it in 1.5 yrs and ran well that was 300whp on that.

Yes does depend on buiilder and use of vehicle.

[jacobs13]

My built motor has about 30k on it and it has been through some bad tuned driving as well. Most of the time it was ran at 330whp with a gt2871 .64 at 15psi, id say 25k miles like that. It has hks sleeves, cp pistons, eagle rods, bc valversprings, retainers, and valves. With 256/264 cams. I havent had any problems yet...

[herbieS13]

apx 2 years and 10k miles, bc 2.2 stroker 264 cams 2871 383whp @ 17.5psi

[Imprezive]

There isn't a blanket answer for that question. It really depends on the type of build, assembler, tuner, and your right foot. You should expect a properly built/tuned motor to last quit a long time. If the engine is putting out power which is considerably more than stock its longevity will likely decrease a bit depending on how you drive it.

In my opinion tuning plays the largest part in whether or not your engine is going to last.

[BlackZenkiS14]

I agree completely, that it is all dependent on the many of variables involved.

However, my friends seem to think that there are "Motor Demons" that become present after you pull the head off of an SR that prevents it from ever running properly ever again.

[Sileighty_85]

i built mine in my living room, been running great for 4 years at 27K with a 2871R @ 21 PSI. Ive even had the damn thing freeze solid one winter flash freeze while i was out of town. thawed out and cranked up with a fresh battery

[Imprezive]

I've also heard of unicorns in tailpipes poking holes and such, but that doesn't mean it's real ;) If you want to be sure of the work that is done do it yourself, that is what I did. Just make sure to study up before hand.

[ManoNegra]

tuning, common sense, attention to detail

we've rebuild a few motors at work:
high compression KA blew up due to wrong heat spark plugs and a track day

another blew up since friend had a cold air extension
and sucked in water after running through a puddle following a rainy day
hydro-locked motor

another is an oem rebuild KA
still running strong in a friend's daily

rebuild the KA on my red car and
it still running well after ~5k miles

from experience measuring clearances is key (bearings, shims, etc)
don't trust what's written on the boxes or believe that you got what you ordered
verify with the FSM

[camaro379ss]

All you really need to do is have whatever you want/need to have machined....then the rest is just nuts and bolts and following directions. It may seem hard to do but it is actually pretty easy.

Once you do one you will be like.....wow I cant believe I was afraid of doing this myself.

Thats exactly how I was when I helped build my tech teachers v8 in tech school. But once it was over it ran great and was really easy. From there I have built my friends built del sol 1.8 integra motor that he made amazing power from.


Moral is dont be afraid to do it yourself as long as you are armed wih the proper know how.

[BlackZenkiS14]

I would like to do it myself, but I really dont have a garage, or space to do it at, so that kind of eliminates the whole deal.

:/

[daryl337]

Then a reputable shop is your way to go.

I personally rebuild my own motors. Having worked at a shop, i can be confident in my builds.

Plus, if anything ends up screwed up, I will atleast know who to blame in the whole deal.

[Edwin562]

Then a reputable shop is your way to go.

I personally rebuild my own motors. Having worked at a shop, i can be confident in my builds.

Plus, if anything ends up screwed up, I will atleast know who to blame in the whole deal.

+1
something i would do if you do take it to a reputable shop is to check with them atleast everyday on progress... if they are cool with it, you can even stop by and see the progress yourself.... like stated before, attention to detail is key... hopefully you find the best solution on buiding your motor.. regardless on what method make sure to post on up on here to see the beast :)

[Imprezive]

Tarp + Plastic Tables + Living Room = Engine build zone :) Might wanna put a fan in a window for some air circulation...

[ManoNegra]

Moral is dont be afraid to do it yourself as long as you are armed wih the proper know how.

and tools

mics, bore mics, feeler gages, torque wrench(es)...

[camaro379ss]

and tools

mics, bore mics, feeler gages, torque wrench(es)...
Oh yea sorry I assumed just because I have all that.

I wish I had a pic of my apartment in cleveland when I lived there...I had my toolbox up there (2bay box....because work supplied tools) and I built that honda motor in my living room, that was my workshop for a while just pushed furniture aside and roll out a tarp is what I did lol. It was 3 floors up thank god for the large elevator being able to hold the weight of my toolbox.

Yea then a good shop is where its at for you. I will try to find that pic tho.

[codyace]

I've never had an issue with building engines, nor has my personal engine ever had a problem with countless track days.

Just follow the FSM, and the manufacturers recommendations on their products.

[let5l1de]

I myself and a few customers have melted pistons and scored cylinder walls. This heat build up is typically due to an insufficient tune. Internal problems related to rods and part completely breaking may be a sign of an improper build and or tune as well. Honestly, breaking an engine is not that big of a deal. It's just the finances and time down that hurt.

Major engine manufactures of OE and Performance break engines, components and related parts all the time.

Learn from the mistakes and build another bigger and better. Now on a business level, the field is not nearly as fair. Especially when the truth is far from the evidence. All engines have a story. Read the engines story, use good mechanical knowledge and use what you learned into the next build.

I will leave with: Tune, tune, tune, tune, tune, tune..... before you put the hammer down. Every engine deserves a good tune.

Near 200HP NA S14 KA24DE in a daily driven 89 coupe (parts pick-up/loaner car) and almost street legal. Detuned, it passes smog. 5 years and still going strong.

GR Performance
Mario Madrid
Engine Builder

(626) 512-3246

~mario

[BlackZenkiS14]

I've never had an issue with building engines, nor has my personal engine ever had a problem with countless track days.

Just follow the FSM, and the manufacturers recommendations on their products.

Do you have the FSM for assembling a S14SR (WC ECU)? I cant seem to find it anywhere online. A PDF would be awesome!

[BlackZenkiS14]

I myself and a few customers have melted pistons and scored cylinder walls. This heat build up is typically due to an insufficient tune. Internal problems related to rods and part completely breaking may be a sign of an improper build and or tune as well. Honestly, breaking an engine is not that big of a deal. It's just the finances and time down that hurt.

Major engine manufactures of OE and Performance break engines, components and related parts all the time.

Learn from the mistakes and build another bigger and better. Now on a business level, the field is not nearly as fair. Especially when the truth is far from the evidence. All engines have a story. Read the engines story, use good mechanical knowledge and use what you learned into the next build.

I will leave with: Tune, tune, tune, tune, tune, tune..... before you put the hammer down. Every engine deserves a good tune.

Near 200HP NA S14 KA24DE in a daily driven 89 coupe (parts pick-up/loaner car) and almost street legal. Detuned, it passes smog. 5 years and still going strong.

GR Performance
Mario Madrid
Engine Builder

(626) 512-3246

~mario

Hey, thanks alot for the help, and the support!

[ManoNegra]

SR are nearly all identical
any FSM will do
wiring is something else
in your case I'd follow the S15 FSM

[BlackZenkiS14]

SR are nearly all identical
any FSM will do
wiring is something else
in your case I'd follow the S15 FSM

I got the wiring covered, it's been running in my car for 4 years now. but I blowed it up, and need to rebuild.

Does anyone have a FSM for the S14 SR though? I dont have anything to go by for motor assembly?

[jr_ss]

I have the fsm on a disk at home. I'll DL it to my comp and then send it to you when I get home this evening. PM me your email

[Sileighty_85]

Google (http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&hl=en&source=hp&q=S14+SR20DET+FSM&aq=&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=c4b94ef403c105f7)

[BlackZenkiS14]

Well hopefulyl weather will stay good for me this week, and I can get the motor out and down to the machine shop so they can tear into it.

[holybushoffire]

I built my SR in my garage over the course of two days and that was 5 years ago. Since then, with an upgrade or two a year and proper maintenance I haven't had a single mechanical failure.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Im hoping for better success with this one. Ive got $2k to get this one back on the road.

[fliprayzin240sx]

I had a built SR...lasted 2 yrs or so. #2 cylinder went bubye with 100 psi. Kinda happens when you go drifting and forget to check your oil level. I was low enough that it didnt touch the dipstick due to a leaky fitting on my oil cooler.

[pitchlock]

The whole deal deal about building engines is take your time, inspect everything, don't buy cheap crap, and keep everything CLEAN. I've built many engines and so far they have all been running strong with little or no hiccups. Just pay attention to the fsm and get a good toque wrench and you should be fine.

[slider2828]

I had a built SR...lasted 2 yrs or so. #2 cylinder went bubye with 100 psi. Kinda happens when you go drifting and forget to check your oil level. I was low enough that it didnt touch the dipstick due to a leaky fitting on my oil cooler.

Mine lasted about 5 years.... Noted I cracked a oil ring landed on the stock engine... Stupid tune.... Then after rebuilt it lasted 5 years..... with a lot of track sessions.....

+1 for oil coolers and a oil reservoir that is pressurized.... forgot what those called. ACCUSUMPS! i think that is what is going to protect the engine more...

Then swirl pot for fuel and coolant.... must haves if you serious about anything after that....

I am still on the fence about the greddy oil pan.....

[s14unimog]

I've had good luck with mine. I agree about the details. People muddy up the information out there with unnecessary failures. My SR just ate it recently and I'm looking at the same costs to get it back up again. I was running right at 400whp on stock pistons and they lasted almost 2years with many track sessions.

^ I like the Greddy pan. I don't think I would compare it to a dry-sump setup but added capacity and hinged partition doors can only help.

[slider2828]

I've had good luck with mine. I agree about the details. People muddy up the information out there with unnecessary failures. My SR just ate it recently and I'm looking at the same costs to get it back up again. I was running right at 400whp on stock pistons and they lasted almost 2years with many track sessions.

^ I like the Greddy pan. I don't think I would compare it to a dry-sump setup but added capacity and hinged partition doors can only help.

Yeah I think the doors should help! Reduce sloshing I guess, but I mean you see the Original Pan, I mean it doesn't hold too much oil, but there IS NO space for sloshing you know what I mean? Its square against the motor.

What do you think?

[s14unimog]

No I agree, the stock pan is basically the "bottom of the bucket" but the added capacity has to help with heat dispersion not to mention the convection cooling through the aluminum casting. I didn't pay for mine, I pillaged it from a build I parted so I have no financial ties to the piece. When the engine is at capacity I'm betting the doors baffle movement and remain immersed the entire time. Better than nothing I suppose.

Don't give up Mr.Black... this is just how it goes. The more you watch every little detail the longer it will last, but don't forget we're taking the hard road. This is a small engine after all, and we're pushing big numbers through them. Enjoy the ride; it's an expensive hobby...

I'm dropping my block off at the shop on Tuesday, get yours running again :boink:

[codyace]

The whole deal deal about building engines is take your time, inspect everything, don't buy cheap crap, and keep everything CLEAN. I've built many engines and so far they have all been running strong with little or no hiccups. Just pay attention to the fsm and get a good toque wrench and you should be fine.

Totally the truth. The biggest thing is being careful and (oh man, how army of me) DOING THE RIGHT THING. If you're going to go through the trouble of rebuilding it, there isn't any reason to skimp on easy things...take it all part, clean the sillicone and other gunk off that you can...then get the block and head cleaned/tanked...same with the any of the extra stuff (cam caps/main caps etc etc)...have the FSM handy, use new seals, etc etc etc, use gray sillicone (why do people still use orange and blue and black?!?!?!) etc etc.

It's the small details that count. Don't get me wrong, there are places where you can skimp...but if you want it to last a while don't.


I am still on the fence about the greddy oil pan.....

I'm a big fan of the Greddy Oil pan not so much due to capacity, but due to the swing doors in the pan (or any of the aftermarket, like Tomei, or the Moroso that also have the feature). I know from the FWD land and from other cars, that keeping oil in that pickup is a HUGE concern and a huge thing to pay attention too. I know it may be crude, but overfilling a Sentra is not uncommon for a track car, as every little bit helps...sure overfilling can increase windage and drag and that stuff...but loosing 5 HP isn't worth running an engine dry.


Don't give up Mr.Black... this is just how it goes. The more you watch every little detail the longer it will last, but don't forget we're taking the hard road. This is a small engine after all, and we're pushing big numbers through them. Enjoy the ride; it's an expensive hobby...

No doubt. Many owners do not realize the difference in commitment (commitment being money/time) between a 300whp /400 whp / 500 whp SR...I'd go as far as to say that less than 5% of SR owners are capable of supporting a reliable 400whp+ car. It takes a good wrench and steady income (or deep pockets and reliance on a shop) to do it.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Well, thanks alot for the support guys, I hope to have to motor out of the car this weekend, and maybe down to the machine shop the weekend after, and then I just have to wait for them to tell me how bad it is, and what all it is going to need.