s14 subframe in s13

[slidewayz350]

I know some people have put a s14 subframe in a s13. I was wondering if it is worth it and how do you like it. Also what control arms and all sis you use.

Thanks,
Jason

[[email protected]]

worth it.

easy swap, you use s14 suspension/s14 diff cover now in the rear

[UG-T]

What's the advantage of doing this though?

[nieko]

You can use all of your s13 suspension.

The ONLY things you need are s13>s14 Conversion bushings, which SPL, and I beileve Stance sell.

And s14 rear diff cover.

s13 Subframes have a lot of anti squat built into them.

s14 Subframe = more grip :D

[olah.inc]

does someone make pu bushes for the conversion?

[iLagX]

you guys can learn more right here.

http://www.splparts.com/instructions/SPL_SSB_S13C.pdf

[slidewayz350]

I will def have to do it then. I appreciate the info.

[slidewayz350]

Another question I have is do I use a s13 rear sway bar or do I use a s14.

[booey13]

S14 sway bar because it's wider than the s13

[slidewayz350]

I take it that it will mount up with no issues

[anotheraznguy]

also, the toe arms width is different. so if you have s13 vs s14 you need to change toe arms/

[e1_griego]

^No, the arms are the same, the conical spacers are different. The s14 has a wider mounting point.

And the rlca mounting points are wider on the s14 subframe, so if you use s13 rlca's then you need to use washers or something to take up the extra space.

[7jpat]

i know it 7 months old but no need to start a new thread , i just pick up s14 subframe and diff cover , going into s13 , i know i need conversion bushings and im going to get all new arms my guess is it would be easier to get s14 arms , but what about when i get coilovers will s13 rear coils fit or would i need the spacers like they use on s14 front knuckles, or would solid bushing in s13 frame be the same as swapping in s14

[Pinggg]

i know it 7 months old but no need to start a new thread , i just pick up s14 subframe and diff cover , going into s13 , i know i need conversion bushings and im going to get all new arms my guess is it would be easier to get s14 arms , but what about when i get coilovers will s13 rear coils fit or would i need the spacers like they use on s14 front knuckles, or would solid bushing in s13 frame be the same as swapping in s14

s13 rear coils will fit on s14 sub frame on a s13, i have the conversion done on my car.

[SLiDe_WaYz]

Book marking that link above, great info

[7jpat]

s13 rear coils will fit on s14 sub frame on a s13, i have the conversion done on my car.
thanks
how do u like it ? do u ever go to towers would be easier to talk in person

and yeah i went throw that link good stuff there

[Pinggg]

thanks
how do u like it ? do u ever go to towers would be easier to talk in person

and yeah i went throw that link good stuff there

yeah i use too until i took my car off the road for a build like 5 months ago.. i usually ride out there with my buddy from up north then go drifting and racing at us27 for the night haha.

[Bubba]

Those damn offset bushings are not required to do this swap. Figured I would note that since I keep seeing people insist on using them. The stock rubber bushings will give enough side to side for you to mount the SF up to the car. Your biggest issue with the swap will be exhaust hangers. The only arm you may need to swap is the RLCA, although I just used washers on each side of the bushing until I cleaned up my dookie set of S14 RLCA's.

Also, the only factory suspension I have in the rear is the RLCA so if anything else OEM doesn't fit then I really wouldn't know about it. Haha

Good luck. I'm happy with the swap. Glad I took the time to rape the doner car down the road for it's subframe.

[7jpat]

Those damn offset bushings are not required to do this swap. Figured I would note that since I keep seeing people insist on using them. The stock rubber bushings will give enough side to side for you to mount the SF up to the car. Your biggest issue with the swap will be exhaust hangers. The only arm you may need to swap is the RLCA, although I just used washers on each side of the bushing until I cleaned up my dookie set of S14 RLCA's.

Also, the only factory suspension I have in the rear is the RLCA so if anything else OEM doesn't fit then I really wouldn't know about it. Haha

Good luck. I'm happy with the swap. Glad I took the time to rape the doner car down the road for it's subframe.

my bushing are no good and i want solid ones ,i was going ti get all adjustable arms for s14 , thanks on the heads up for exhaust hanger

[ZAKU]

The stock rubber bushings will give enough side to side for you to mount the SF up to the car..

This sounds like a BAD idea, there's no way those bushings will last if you're putting a preload on them.

[new47416]

So, to do this swap i need:

1. s14 subframe.
2. s13>s14 Conversion bushings from spl or stance.
3. s14 RLCAs
4. would other s13 suspension parts will work? what coilovers s13 or s14? is there any other parts i need?

[ixfxi]

bunch of stupid idiots in this thread


yes, you need the fucking offset bushings. i dont know how fuck-face above even suggested stretching the fuck out of the OE bushing to slip it onto the subframe. thats like shoving a fist in a womans vagina and leaving it there, 24-7.


you will need...................................
offset bushings (with shims)
lower control arms
long control (toe?) arm (which has proper width, none of that spacer nonsense)
spindles
diff cover

remember that you will need bushings for practically everything since its all old and shot. this means control arms, spindles, and diff bushings.

also, dont waste time burning bushings like _every_fucking_idiot_ suggests, as its a complete waste of time (unless you like blowing black bogies out your nose). drill the majority of rubber out of the bushing and use a recip-saw cutting inwards towards the subframe (as opposed to the thin outer areas).

i also suggest avoiding poly urethane nonsense, unless you want to spend a lifetime under your car removing the bushings, re-greasing them, and re-installing them. i have yet to see ANYONE make a clean setup w/ grease fittings, its all sloppy joe ghetto style.

so bushing alternatives are to get nismo (if you can find them) or get raped financially buying spherical bearings which are harsh and not really ideal for a street car, plus they are not designed to last tens of thousands of miles.

remember, people on this forum are STUPID. use your common sense.

[new47416]

Thanks for clarifying

[blueshark123]

^ listen to him and do it right the first time.

[josephin510]

bunch of stupid idiots in this thread


yes, you need the fucking offset bushings. i dont know how fuck-face above even suggested stretching the fuck out of the OE bushing to slip it onto the subframe. thats like shoving a fist in a womans vagina and leaving it there, 24-7.


you will need...................................
offset bushings (with shims)
lower control arms
long control (toe?) arm (which has proper width, none of that spacer nonsense)
spindles
diff cover

remember that you will need bushings for practically everything since its all old and shot. this means control arms, spindles, and diff bushings.

also, dont waste time burning bushings like _every_fucking_idiot_ suggests, as its a complete waste of time (unless you like blowing black bogies out your nose). drill the majority of rubber out of the bushing and use a recip-saw cutting inwards towards the subframe (as opposed to the thin outer areas).

i also suggest avoiding poly urethane nonsense, unless you want to spend a lifetime under your car removing the bushings, re-greasing them, and re-installing them. i have yet to see ANYONE make a clean setup w/ grease fittings, its all sloppy joe ghetto style.

so bushing alternatives are to get nismo (if you can find them) or get raped financially buying spherical bearings which are harsh and not really ideal for a street car, plus they are not designed to last tens of thousands of miles.

remember, people on this forum are STUPID. use your common sense.

In my years of being outside my cave I found that common sense isn't so common.

[7jpat]

so i need s14 spindles too? starting to see im in more then i want but oh well

[e1_griego]

bunch of stupid idiots in this thread


yes, you need the fucking offset bushings. i dont know how fuck-face above even suggested stretching the fuck out of the OE bushing to slip it onto the subframe. thats like shoving a fist in a womans vagina and leaving it there, 24-7.


you will need...................................
offset bushings (with shims)
lower control arms
long control (toe?) arm (which has proper width, none of that spacer nonsense)
spindles
diff cover

remember that you will need bushings for practically everything since its all old and shot. this means control arms, spindles, and diff bushings.

also, dont waste time burning bushings like _every_fucking_idiot_ suggests, as its a complete waste of time (unless you like blowing black bogies out your nose). drill the majority of rubber out of the bushing and use a recip-saw cutting inwards towards the subframe (as opposed to the thin outer areas).

i also suggest avoiding poly urethane nonsense, unless you want to spend a lifetime under your car removing the bushings, re-greasing them, and re-installing them. i have yet to see ANYONE make a clean setup w/ grease fittings, its all sloppy joe ghetto style.

so bushing alternatives are to get nismo (if you can find them) or get raped financially buying spherical bearings which are harsh and not really ideal for a street car, plus they are not designed to last tens of thousands of miles.

remember, people on this forum are STUPID. use your common sense.

Not to argue, but the toe arms are the same length, it's just the mounting area that's a different width. I wasn't saying to run a spacer, just recommending finding the RIGHT conical spacer (SPL use to include both sets with their toe arms).

s13 toe arm in s14 subframe:
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb43/patsilvia/DSC04162.jpg

Also, most of the people stretching out the bushings to fit are trying to conform to Street Mod autox rules which explicitly prohibit offset bushings. It's not the right way to do it, but that's usually the impetus.


The taper is different between rear s13 and s14 ball joints, so you will need to get s14 spindles or take the opportunity to run z32 aluminum uprights (but those will necessitate changing your lower shock mount to z32 fork style). The length between s13 and s14 rlcas is the same, it's just the bushing width that is different. The RLCA inner bushings are 40 mm wide on S13/Z32, 50mm on S14s.

Please go read: http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=1512

[180wanabe1]

you could just find someone to mod your subframe to take out the lca tilt in the s13 subframe. Powered by max did it on a customers car but i can't seem to find the article now.

[ixfxi]

Not to argue, but the toe arms are the same length, it's just the mounting area that's a different width.

I tip my hat off to you sir. Not even going to argue because you are indeed correct. My post was just saying "stock for stock." For an OEM bushing to work properly, it needs to be torqued onto the vehicle when laden. Adding washers and doing bullshit like that obviously negates the point of doing all this work, besides being ghetto.

[e1_griego]

For sure, but once you add sphericals to everything, it's no problem!

I am definitely in your camp when it comes to do everything right, just wanted to clarify a couple bits :) I chose to use s14 lcas, z32 uprights and spl offset bushings, and the proper s14 spl toe arm spacers when I did mine. No reason to half-ass suspension stuff, at all.

[NismoPlsr]

The taper is different between rear s13 and s14 ball joints, so you will need to get s14 spindles or take the opportunity to run z32 aluminum uprights (but those will necessitate changing your lower shock mount to z32 fork style). The length between s13 and s14 rlcas is the same, it's just the bushing width that is different. The RLCA inner bushings are 40 mm wide on S13/Z32, 50mm on S14s.


The ball joint taper is the same in the rear for s13 and s14. It is the press fit diameter of ball joint to control arm that is different. So any upright will work with any LCA.

[e1_griego]

Whoops, sorry. I read somewhere they were different (or misinterpreted what I was reading) : http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/243438-rear-ball-joint-taper-s13-s14-same.html#post2727044

If you're going to all that trouble you should be swapping in z32 uprights anyway.

[7jpat]

Whoops, sorry. I read somewhere they were different (or misinterpreted what I was reading) : http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/243438-rear-ball-joint-taper-s13-s14-same.html#post2727044

If you're going to all that trouble you should be swapping in z32 uprights anyway.

whats so good about z32 uprights vs s14

[7jpat]

i Google it , weight difference , so whats needed to do the swap on that with s14 subframe on s13, all the above aka s14 arms ruca rlca toe and s13 strut or coils with z32 mounts

[e1_griego]

If you can google that, then s14 subframe swap shouldn't be that hard to figure out ;)

[Bubba]

bunch of stupid idiots in this thread


yes, you need the fucking offset bushings.

Also, most of the people stretching out the bushings to fit are trying to conform to Street Mod autox rules which explicitly prohibit offset bushings.
Please go read: S-14 subframe into S-13 discussion... - Nissan Road Racing Forums (http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=1512)

Since fuck-face over there thinks he is sooo fucking correct about the issue...

I plan to RACE my car... not hardpark the shit out of it and say "yeah I have an S13 with all S14 suspension because I'm MadJDMTyte yo!"

I have a set of rules to comply with and this mod has been done by more than a few other SM classed 240sx's and run for quite some time successfully WITHOUT offset bushings. Proof that this mod can indeed be safely completed WITHOUT the offset bushings.

Thanks for the sweet words though. I almost blushed.

[bc.]

why isn't stretching the stock bushings considered offset bushings also? its offset from the original location just as much as the spl bushings are.

[Seraphim38]

Since I am very interested in hearing about how to improve grip, this apparently must be added to my Excel spreadsheet of modifications planned ;)

e1_greigo, I may call/PM about this to make sure that I go about it right when the time comes.

[e1_griego]

why isn't stretching the stock bushings considered offset bushings also? its offset from the original location just as much as the spl bushings are.

Because the bushings themselves are just stock, and just deflection. Not designed with an offset in place. Yes, effectively the same thing, but autox rules aren't 100% logical some times.



e1_greigo, I may call/PM about this to make sure that I go about it right when the time comes.

Fair enough, it's all covered on NRR. This should come after you get rid of your tanabes.

[Seraphim38]

I just found the NRR thread that is tens of pages on the subject so I will read it. I will probably try to redo my rear suspension all at once, with new springs, S14 sub frame, SPL bushings and SPL diff bushings, but I have to get the FI/ECU sorted first.

[ixfxi]

Whoops, sorry. I read somewhere they were different (or misinterpreted what I was reading) : http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/243438-rear-ball-joint-taper-s13-s14-same.html#post2727044

If you're going to all that trouble you should be swapping in z32 uprights anyway.

they are indeed different. anything can be MADE to fit with force and a sledge hammer, as already proven by numerous thick-minded zilvia-kin. when i was doing my own independent research, i noticed that the spindle wouldnt fully seat onto the ball joint down enough to install the retaining pin. So, i immediately swapped and installed the proper spindle. woopdeedoo, end of problem. i mean, its not like these parts cost a dime a dozen. when you buy a subframe, often times the seller is selling it COMPLETE.


i Google it , weight difference , so whats needed to do the swap on that with s14 subframe on s13, all the above aka s14 arms ruca rlca toe and s13 strut or coils with z32 mounts

Difference between the spindles is that one is cast iron while the other is aluminum. rear shock mount is different.


Since fuck-face over there thinks he is sooo fucking correct about the issue... I plan to RACE my car... not hardpark the shit out of it and say "yeah I have an S13 with all S14 suspension because I'm MadJDMTyte yo!"

damn dude, you're hardcore BUBBA. race on, hommie. i mean, i'm sure theres a lot of things to race from when you live in Mississippi. I'm sure that just going to the local liquor store requires a sprinted run down unpaved backroads with your hillbilly friends.

its all good though, because i plan to ditch CHP and gangsters rollin down the 710 freeway through the thuggiest of thug nasty parts of LA.. so your subframe is as good as mine.


why isn't stretching the stock bushings considered offset bushings also? its offset from the original location just as much as the spl bushings are.

the best, more accurate description i can give you is.... why dont people walk around with a speculums up their crevices. if you're going to stretch something, i can understand doing that for a brief minute. when you stretch the fuck out of a bushing and are forced to mash it onto the body, thats ghetto. but for some reason folks from the land of no toothpaste and soap, think they know better. what do i know, i'm from LA.

[93'DET]

I want to clarify in this thread, if you have an stock s13 and want to put a s14 subframe you will need...
1. s14 subframe.
2. s13>s14 conversion bushings.
3. s14 rear lower control arms?
4. s14 knuckles/spindle?
5. s14 toe links?

It would be appreciated if someone could clarify that this list is accurate.

[Seraphim38]

And, I would love to hear someone's impression of driving their car after doing the swap: Can you actually feel a difference? Will the change help the most with straight line acceleration, or acceleration out of corners or ?

[MrFairlady]

Ok. I'm in

ixfxi & I have spoken on The conversion previously that I'm doing which is an Entire S15 rear end,suspension,Diff etc etc in mY S14.

does the Driveshaft not have any implications on this Conversion??

I'm hoping my ABS S14 d/s works with my New S15 rear Subframe and everything.
I'm almost ready to Install it w/in a few weeks.

I would almost think about using the S14 Frame I'm going to remove and putting it in my S13 but its a Rusted Turd (whole reason for the entire Rear S15 under Clip I'm using) and would take more time in cleaning everything to me than Its worth.

[e1_griego]

s14 and s15 are the same, aren't they? (minus a couple braces)

Why bother?

[ranger240]

In my years of being outside my cave I found that common sense isn't so common.

read my sig.

[Bubba]

damn dude, you're hardcore BUBBA. race on, hommie. i mean, i'm sure theres a lot of things to race from when you live in Mississippi. I'm sure that just going to the local liquor store requires a sprinted run down unpaved backroads with your hillbilly friends.

its all good though, because i plan to ditch CHP and gangsters rollin down the 710 freeway through the thuggiest of thug nasty parts of LA.. so your subframe is as good as mine.




the best, more accurate description i can give you is.... why dont people walk around with a speculums up their crevices. if you're going to stretch something, i can understand doing that for a brief minute. when you stretch the fuck out of a bushing and are forced to mash it onto the body, thats ghetto. but for some reason folks from the land of no toothpaste and soap, think they know better. what do i know, i'm from LA.

I laughed at those last parts. And you're right, if there were tracks here in South Mississippi I am damn sure they would be run down and shitty. That's why I drive 2-4 hours away to get to a real track when the occasion calls for it. Aside from that this car actually does see a few dirt roads and front yards every now and then. I found it in mud, why act all high and mighty and pretend like mud and dirt aren't my cars homies.

All other things aside, the swap is a cake walk either way you do it. No rule set to follow, buy the bushings. Rule set to follow, join the large club of guys that have done it the OTHER way.

[240zach]

SPL conversion bushings ftw decent price too

[240zach]

s14 and s15 are the same, aren't they? (minus a couple braces)

Why bother?



cause if you want an s15 sr and you want your speedo to work you need the diff, so an s15 subframe will make the diff bolt up and you can do an s15sr the right way

[fliprayzin240sx]

And, I would love to hear someone's impression of driving their car after doing the swap: Can you actually feel a difference? Will the change help the most with straight line acceleration, or acceleration out of corners or ?

I know first hand that I've felt the difference while drifting. S13 feels twitchy while going sideways, upgraded to an S14 subframe and the car felt alot smoother where you dont have to contstantly fight the car.

[NismoPlsr]

I want to clarify in this thread, if you have an stock s13 and want to put a s14 subframe you will need...
1. s14 subframe.
2. s13>s14 conversion bushings.
3. s14 rear lower control arms?
4. s14 knuckles/spindle?
5. s14 toe links?

It would be appreciated if someone could clarify that this list is accurate.

No need to swap spindles. So cross out #4 and i think you got it.

... does the Driveshaft not have any implications on this Conversion??

I'm hoping my ABS S14 d/s works with my New S15 rear Subframe and everything...

Driveshaft is dependent on chassis due to differences in wheel base with s14 being 2" longer than s13 and also ABS or non-ABS due to the sensor making the diff snout longer.

I believe s15 puts the speed sensor in the s14 abs sensor location then adds a sensor on each diff output shaft.


SPL conversion bushings ftw decent price too

Stance's are cheaper if you don't want/need all the adjustment shims.

cause if you want an s15 sr and you want your speedo to work you need the diff, so an s15 subframe will make the diff bolt up and you can do an s15sr the right way

That seems a little excessive, no need to change subframes just to swap diffs.

[240zach]

That seems a little excessive, no need to change subframes just to swap diffs.


the s15 diff has the speed sensor in it. if you want to have a speedo still you would have to have the diff. BUT
i dont know if the diffs are close to the same when it comes to where they bolt up, which is why i would assume someone would need the s15 subframe to run the s15 diff and im pretty sure with an s15 sr, wanting to run an s15 diff, you need the s15 ds as well...any other diff you can use the stock drifeshaft.

[ixfxi]

the s15 diff has the speed sensor in it. if you want to have a speedo still you would have to have the diff. BUT
i dont know if the diffs are close to the same when it comes to where they bolt up, which is why i would assume someone would need the s15 subframe to run the s15 diff and im pretty sure with an s15 sr, wanting to run an s15 diff, you need the s15 ds as well...any other diff you can use the stock drifeshaft.

s14 and s15 subframes are practically identical, only minor differences exist. ive seen same year s14s with OE gussets that other s14 subframes did not have.

the previous poster pointed out that the differential COVER is the only item that needs to be swapped, if you want to be cheap about it and not install a newer subframe.

[240zach]

@ixfxi
i see this. but im saying isnt the speed sensor in the differential? if you use the 6 speed tranny the speed sensor isnt there.
what im saying is that if you want a 6 speed tranny as well as a speed sensor you would need the s15 diff..

unless the speed sensor is in the diff cover of the s15 then nvm everything im saying. lolz
but if you had to swap full diffs i would assume having to change the subframe and DS.

are you saying the speed sensor is in the diff cover ixfxi?

[NismoPlsr]

You are correct in needing the s15 diff with the speed sensor ,which is in the snout of the housing, but has nothing to do with the subframe. Any s-chassis diff will bolt into any s-chassis subframe as long as you have the proper rear cover that matches the subframe, s13 being 4 bolt and s14/15 being 2 bolt.

[ixfxi]

i think its a no-brainer now in 2012, that if you want to run an s15 motor/trans/driveshaft/diff that you need the entire setup.. the speed sensor mounts on the ears of the diff cover, from what i remember.

[VinceDude]

Is this also applicable for the front subframe? I'm asking cause they looked the same to me last time i saw an s14 subframe. I'm planning powered by max suspension all around and I wanna know if i should convert my front sub to an s14 one too and run s14 arms, tie rods, tensions, lca, etc. up there or not.

[living4surf]

You can just run s14 arms on the front subframe. Just need knuckles and hubs

[greatwhitebuffalo]

or just s13 ball joints

[collegekid]

Don't forget, this can get expensive if you don't have a press. the bushings themselves aren't that bad but if you get a shop to install them its like $500 labor

[VinceDude]

You can just run s14 arms on the front subframe. Just need knuckles and hubs

cool thanks.

[thefro526]

You can just run s14 arms on the front subframe. Just need knuckles and hubs

or just s13 ball joints

These two posts are a bit confusing, but not necessarily wrong.... But someone might interpret them wrong.

For all intents and purposes, the S13 and S14 front subframes are identical when it comes to the LCA Mounting point - though they may be slightly different elsewhere, I'm not sure.

If you're planning on upgrading your front stuff from S13 to S14, you'll need to make sure that your ball joints match the knuckle. If you've got an S14 Knuckle, you'll need S14 Ball Joints/Tapered Shanks in whatever LCA you want to run - if you've got S13, then you need S13 Ball Joints.

In terms of Stock LCA's, S13/S14 LCA's can be made to work with either knuckle, as long as they have the appropriate ball joint installed. The S14 LCA's are significantly longer than S13.

Don't forget, this can get expensive if you don't have a press. the bushings themselves aren't that bad but if you get a shop to install them its like $500 labor

You really don't need a press to knock out most S-Chassis Bushings, unless you're knocking out the sleeves too... And even then, there are ways to get the sleeves out without using a press, you just need to be careful to not damage the bore.

[godsmack]

And to add to ^^^

The front tension rods for an s14 are also longer than the s13. You can not put front stock tension rods on an s13 without doing modification. But the s13 tensions can be used with s14lca.

[VinceDude]

And to add to ^^^

The front tension rods for an s14 are also longer than the s13. You can not put front stock tension rods on an s13 without doing modification. But the s13 tensions can be used with s14lca.

I'm gonna run the some max suspesion up front too. Should I just run s13 arms from max or does it make a difference to run the s14 one? If anyone knows.

The ball joint taper was worth mentioning thanks for doing so.

[rubhamusan]

Wow this thread is cluttered. First off i have the complete underside of a s15.

Here is what i personally have found true for my s13 application.
The S15 has NO speed sensor period!
It uses a ABS sensor in the diff to calculate speed.
You can use a s13 diff with a abs sensor in it to accomplish the same goal. But final drive will be wrong.
The s15 subframe has a different geometry to it vs s13 or 14.
A s15 diff will bolt in using s13 cover.

Lca's are longer.
Ball joints are different.
Toe arms are wider.

I'm torn between putting my subframe in. I made the offset bushings myself out of 6061
And have removed all the old bushings and cut out the sleeves. I blue printed a set of stance
Bushings. I froze them and there a pain to put in so i stopped on that part and just focused on getting the car on the road. Now that the car has done some time on the road i dont know if i really want any more traction. I only drift the car nothing more. Its running 1.2 bar
i only want 300 hp. Has anyone done a s15 subframe in a low hp drift application ?
It would suck to do all that work and money and not be happy with it.

[ixfxi]

The s15 subframe has a different geometry to it vs s13 or 14.


most of your post is correct. the above comment is my only gripe.

i found NO major difference between S14 and S15 subframes, only minor... very minor differences, none of which have to do with the suspension mounting locations... etc

care to share what you found different?

[lflkajfj12123]

its not different

s15 subframe is s14 subframe with extra bracing

[ixfxi]

its not different

s15 subframe is s14 subframe with extra bracing

thats not what i found.

ive found s14 subframes, some with bracing, some without. does not matter if its auto or manual, zenki or kouki... it found it totally random.

the s15 subframe i purchased was with bracing, but i wouldnt be surprised if some were without.

and the bracing is bullshit, nothing note-worthy

[lflkajfj12123]

thats weird

but there is for sure no difference in the suspension geometry between s14 and s15

[rubhamusan]

thats weird

but there is for sure no difference in the suspension geometry between s14 and s15

There was a option video were yashio factory bought a silvia q and put a full s15 drive trane and rear subframe. If the translation was correct they said the s15 subframe had a unique geometry vs the s14 and s13. Its been years since ive watched it but i always thought about getting a subframe and trying it out. I am working on getting my hands on a cmm 3d scanner and scanning all three and posting the difference.

[lflkajfj12123]

yeah it was option2 vol 34 silvia tuning special

here you can download it from my site

http://driftwolrd.com/video/opt2v34.m4v ~ goto around 13:00 minutes

they just say that versus the s13

and its only different for the LCA

s15 frame is picked because of the bracing

http://i.imgur.com/hx5ohgP.jpg

[ixfxi]

damn soap, you memorized that shit?

no offense, but you're a nerd bro :)

[rubhamusan]

Thanks for the clarification .

[lflkajfj12123]

yeah i think i have a problem :|

[InsTanCeZ]

lol I downloaded that vid off your site too. That's like the coolest Option vid ever. I don't blame you for memorizing it lol.