DriftChicken
05-10-2011, 06:59 PM
Hey guys! I'm hoping you can help shed some light on my issue. The car's a 92 with an s13 blacktop.
1. The car idles kinda high. Once warmed up... it sits at about 900rpm. I tried to set the idle lower but it doesn't seem to have any affect. When I dc'd the TPS (with the car warmed up) it idled at about 800 or so. I initially had the screw turned CW all the way then backed it out 3 turns for my initial reading. Turned the screw CCW a partial turn and waited... no change. I tried backing it out even more. When I started the car again... still no change. I did take an air compressor and blew air into the IACV before doing all this. I'll try taking carb cleaner to it next. Any ideas on anything else I can check out while I'm there?
2. Low vacuum. My boost gauge is only reading 8in/HG!!! I understand it should be reading between 18-20 avg. With the car in neutral when I lightly tap the gas I can see the vacuum climb slightly closer to the 20 mark. Off the TB I have the top left nip running dedicated to the FPR. The top right, the slightly larger one, I have running over to the BOV. The bottom nip is running to my boost gauge. I'm curious if this is an issue? I've read your supposed to plug the bottom and not use it, then I read on another forum somebody claimed to be using it for their gauge. I have my WG actuator running to a fitting tapped into the IC hotpipe. my big concern is the use of the bottom nip, should I just tap my boost gauge to the FPR like the instructions say? I'll probably test that out later and report back.
3. Possibly related to #2, in neutral the boost gauge will read very low vacuum then when I hit the gas hard it doesn't build any boost. Maybe the gauge is hooked up wrong?
4. BOV vented, RPMS DROP when I blip the throttle. Nobody I know is running a recirculated BOV, and theirs seem to run ok... or maybe it's just as bad but they're better at covering it up/ignoring it. In neutral... when I lightly blip the throttle, the RPMS climb... then drop to below 500. the car shakes a bit but manages to recover. If I try to rev it a little harder, the BOV will open up and then the RPMS come crashing with it. Sometimes it will stall. I think I have this one already answered... RECIRCULATE. I just wanted to get some opinions from others. Also I have a lightened flywheel, might that have something to do with my drastic rpm drop?
TIA for any advice you can give! I've been researching this for the past few days and have even tried a thing or two but nothing seems to be helping. I have a feeling that these issues might all be inter-related somehow.
DC
Sorry for the wall of text
1. The car idles kinda high. Once warmed up... it sits at about 900rpm. I tried to set the idle lower but it doesn't seem to have any affect. When I dc'd the TPS (with the car warmed up) it idled at about 800 or so. I initially had the screw turned CW all the way then backed it out 3 turns for my initial reading. Turned the screw CCW a partial turn and waited... no change. I tried backing it out even more. When I started the car again... still no change. I did take an air compressor and blew air into the IACV before doing all this. I'll try taking carb cleaner to it next. Any ideas on anything else I can check out while I'm there?
2. Low vacuum. My boost gauge is only reading 8in/HG!!! I understand it should be reading between 18-20 avg. With the car in neutral when I lightly tap the gas I can see the vacuum climb slightly closer to the 20 mark. Off the TB I have the top left nip running dedicated to the FPR. The top right, the slightly larger one, I have running over to the BOV. The bottom nip is running to my boost gauge. I'm curious if this is an issue? I've read your supposed to plug the bottom and not use it, then I read on another forum somebody claimed to be using it for their gauge. I have my WG actuator running to a fitting tapped into the IC hotpipe. my big concern is the use of the bottom nip, should I just tap my boost gauge to the FPR like the instructions say? I'll probably test that out later and report back.
3. Possibly related to #2, in neutral the boost gauge will read very low vacuum then when I hit the gas hard it doesn't build any boost. Maybe the gauge is hooked up wrong?
4. BOV vented, RPMS DROP when I blip the throttle. Nobody I know is running a recirculated BOV, and theirs seem to run ok... or maybe it's just as bad but they're better at covering it up/ignoring it. In neutral... when I lightly blip the throttle, the RPMS climb... then drop to below 500. the car shakes a bit but manages to recover. If I try to rev it a little harder, the BOV will open up and then the RPMS come crashing with it. Sometimes it will stall. I think I have this one already answered... RECIRCULATE. I just wanted to get some opinions from others. Also I have a lightened flywheel, might that have something to do with my drastic rpm drop?
TIA for any advice you can give! I've been researching this for the past few days and have even tried a thing or two but nothing seems to be helping. I have a feeling that these issues might all be inter-related somehow.
DC
Sorry for the wall of text