View Full Version : Ka24de running on 2 cylinders
evilamish
04-30-2011, 07:41 PM
It was runnin and driving on all 4 cylinders. I then replaced the head gasket. Now it is only running on cylinders 2 and 3. 1 and 4 both have fuel, good compression and spark, but are nonfunctional. I can pull both plugs and nothing changes. I rechecked all timing and everything appears to be dead on. im just wondering if ne one has any suggestions cause no one i know can figure it out... thanks
So I recently purchased a 95 240sx with a ka24de motor. That was leaking oil from few places like the head gasket, front oil seal and oil filter bracket gashet. It wasn’t bad until I noticed a big oil puddle under the car after I got out of classes. So I decided to replace all the gaskets all at once. After I got the engine put back together. I started her up and she ran for 5 seconds, bogging down and died. I did it couple more times same thing, but If I held down the gas pedal 3k rpm runs unit I take my foot off the pedal. I also noticed that I was running only two cylinders (3,4) by touching the exhaust header
Here are the things I have tested, checked and replaced
1. I have checked the all my fuel injectors by watching them spray and clicking sound form each injector
2. New pre-gapped spark plugs
3. New spark plug wires
4. New distributor cap
5. I rechecked my engines lower and upper timing
6. Rechecked distributor timing
7. Tested the compression at 130,140,135,130
I also found a guy that had the same problem in a different forum. The problem was a bad distributor. How would I check if it’s going out?
Also my spark plugs are black and wet with gas.
I don’t know if this would help, but my rpm gauges jump’s at 3k to 4k rpms
One more thing My obd2 scanner is not able to put up codes. So I would have to test it with a voltmeter.
Thank you for looking at my long @ss post. Sorry about that
s14fbs
04-30-2011, 08:20 PM
okay did u make sure u have the cams on the right sides along with all the timing chains cause it sounds like your timing is way off to me
how are you setting your dizzy
and yes 95 ka are ob1 97 and up are obII but u can find the fsm and real the lights on the ecu but i never bothered doing that lol
I would think if timing was off you'd see that on the compression test. Are you sure you have fuel and spark on all 4 cylinders? Did you check compression on all 4 as well? Also not sure if this could cause a problem like this but make sure your spark plug wires are routed to the correct cylinders.
LuckyRPS13
05-01-2011, 02:41 AM
Ok you need 3 things to make our motor run as you seem to know. Fuel, Spark, and Air. If all 4 cylinders are getting spark, fuel, and have compression. Then i would bank on you have you ignition timing off or your spark plug wires in the wrong place.
if his is not the case you car is ignoring the rules of physics as i know them. The compression you posted sounds kinda low to me. did you torque the head down properly after you changed the head gasket? Do you have proper grounds for every thing? this is important for a good spark.
you spark plugs are covered in gas because you do not have compression or you not firing at the proper time.
I hope this gives you an idea where to start looking
evilamish
05-01-2011, 12:22 PM
The compression you posted sounds kinda low to me. did you torque the head down properly after you changed the head gasket? Do you have proper grounds for every thing? this is important for a good spark.
The compression I posted was form a cooled engine and I installed new ARP head bolts. I torqued them to spec 70ftlb sequences of four times. Ill check my grounds tonight
evilamish
05-01-2011, 12:47 PM
I would think if timing was off you'd see that on the compression test. Are you sure you have fuel and spark on all 4 cylinders? Did you check compression on all 4 as well? Also not sure if this could cause a problem like this but make sure your spark plug wires are routed to the correct cylinders.
Yes I'm getting fuel because each time I pull out the spark plugs they're coming out black and wet. Also i'am getting compression 130 140 135 130 but the engine was cold. So i will recheck my compression and spark tonight
evilamish
05-01-2011, 01:16 PM
okay did u make sure u have the cams on the right sides along with all the timing chains cause it sounds like your timing is way off to me
how are you setting your dizzy
and yes 95 ka are ob1 97 and up are obII but u can find the fsm and real the lights on the ecu but i never bothered doing that lol
One of the thing I did when rechecked the timing. Was that I took off the lower and upper chain. Got the mating mark on the chain aligned with the crankshaft and idler sprocket marks and same withe cams.
I thought obd1 and obd2 have different connector's and Why do I have two. One under my glove box and the other is in fuse box
evilamish
05-01-2011, 01:25 PM
okay did u make sure u have the cams on the right sides along with all the timing chains cause it sounds like your timing is way off to me
how are you setting your dizzy
and yes 95 ka are ob1 97 and up are obII but u can find the fsm and real the lights on the ecu but i never bothered doing that lol
I dicked around with the dizzy with no success. I lined it up with shaft mark (the engine cranks for a second then stops. Then I lined it up with indented mark (starts, runs, and dies) These two I had it on tdc on number one. this time I lined the indented mark on 20btdc(starts runs and dies)
Yes I'm getting fuel because each time I pull out the spark plugs they're coming out black and wet. Also i'am getting compression 130 140 135 130 but the engine was cold. So i will recheck my compression and spark tonight
Your spark plugs should be dry. Check your spark plug wires. To me it sounds like the plugs aren't firing correctly because they shouldn't be covered in fuel. Or your ignition timing is off.
dreamin240sx
05-01-2011, 06:19 PM
get a new dizzy then we will talk
evilamish
05-05-2011, 03:55 PM
So when I was checking my spark last night. I had one white spark and the rest was a bluish purple color spark. So i switch out the spark plug that had the white spark with another plug and I get the same white spark. Then I bust out volt meter tested the distributors terminals. So i got "nothing" on resistance between the ignition coil terminal C and camshaft position sensor and power transistor terminal A. I also checked A and B on CPSPT terminal I got 6.67 ohms.
Did I do it right?
Pro ViZIon
05-05-2011, 04:38 PM
check your o-rings for the 2. they could be dumping fuel.
Prime
05-05-2011, 08:57 PM
check your o-rings for the 2. they could be dumping fuel.
This. I chased a problem like this for a month before figuring out the injectors weren't sealed properly. Also, check the injectors themselves. If they're stuck open, that explains why the plugs are wet. And by check, I mean check resistance.
Pro ViZIon
05-05-2011, 11:26 PM
When you check the resistance on the injectors (ohms) they should read around 11 ohms. All of mine read at 11.2
boobs13
05-08-2011, 01:21 AM
Your car sounds like a subi huh.
Dude just get a new motor
evilamish
05-16-2011, 02:12 PM
When you check the resistance on the injectors (ohms) they should read around 11 ohms. All of mine read at 11.2
Sorry for the late response. So I checked the ohms on each injector and I got 1. was 2 ohms, 2. 8ohms 3. 16ohms 4. 11ohms. After I checked the injectors I switched out 2 and 4 and now the car is running on cylinders 2 and 3.
thanks for the help
Edwin562
05-18-2011, 11:11 AM
Your car sounds like a subi huh.
Dude just get a new motor
my car has same problem, but it does sound like a subi but for a few mintues then it stops... happens randomly...
sorry for thread jack, just lettin you know ur not the only one with same problem
evilamish
06-03-2011, 05:48 PM
Update everyone, So I replaced my faulty injector with new ones to find out I have a another problem. Now the car runs on all four cylinders, but it still bogs down and dies
evilamish
06-03-2011, 05:48 PM
my car has same problem, but it does sound like a subi but for a few mintues then it stops... happens randomly...
sorry for thread jack, just lettin you know ur not the only one with same problem
its all good
Jstlookin
02-04-2012, 02:58 PM
Update everyone, So I replaced my faulty injector with new ones to find out I have a another problem. Now the car runs on all four cylinders, but it still bogs down and dies
Mine did the same thing found out it was the ignition module. Hope this helps someone. Later.
evilamish
03-24-2012, 07:54 PM
Mine did the same thing found out it was the ignition module. Hope this helps someone. Later.
Can't find anything that would suggest a 95 has a ignition module
evilamish
03-24-2012, 08:07 PM
So I recently pulled the the code for the ecm by the led method. I dont know why I didnt check this before. anyway it pulls up code 55. I did a little research and found the code meant no error. It that right? If its true would this mean that my fuel pressure is in questen
Jstlookin
03-25-2012, 10:55 AM
Can't find anything that would suggest a 95 has a ignition module
Ok, I found out i had bad relays and bad fuel pump and bad fuel inj. pigtails. So, that was only part of the problem. My ignition module (90 nissan 240sx,stock) is under the bracket with the coil. I dont know about a 95. Hope this helps.
Jstlookin
03-25-2012, 10:56 AM
Update everyone, So I replaced my faulty injector with new ones to find out I have a another problem. Now the car runs on all four cylinders, but it still bogs down and dies
Also check the fuel strainer in the tank, mine kept clogging.
Tantwoforty
03-25-2012, 05:14 PM
i have a s14 dizzy
evilamish
03-30-2012, 04:01 PM
I wanted to see what would happen when I disconnected my MAF sensor and guess what?
It runs:2f2f: but at 500rpm:cry:
evilamish
04-05-2012, 04:43 PM
I did a voltage test on the maf sensor and the results are. With the ignition switch on I got .5v, around 75orpm i got 1.5v and around 4000rpm i got 3.4. I did the test again the next day I got .4v, 1.6v, 2.9v at 4000rpm and I also wanted to see what voltage I got 6000rmp It was 3.2v.
I would like to know if distributor time would play a factor on the low voltage
evilamish
04-20-2012, 03:06 PM
ive checked my fuel pressure and also the regulator. I got 42 psi when the ignition switch is on and 35 psi around idle and when applied vacuum pressure the fuel pressure decreases
Walperstyle
04-21-2012, 02:30 AM
when you put timing back to stock, you had the lobes of no1 facing outward? Compression stroke? When you stabbed the dizzy, was it lined up properly according to FSM?
I don't have a complete set of timing video's for the KA, but I did make one for upper and lower timing chain.
LOWER
lower-timing-explained, ka24det. Factory Settings - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbaFoxm-5lE)
UPPER
upper-timing-explained ka24de 2.4L nissan - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofV4eghOP_w)
hope it helps
evilamish
04-22-2012, 11:57 AM
when you put timing back to stock, you had the lobes of no1 facing outward? Compression stroke? When you stabbed the dizzy, was it lined up properly according to FSM?
I don't have a complete set of timing video's for the KA, but I did make one for upper and lower timing chain.
LOWER
lower-timing-explained, ka24det. Factory Settings - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbaFoxm-5lE)
UPPER
upper-timing-explained ka24de 2.4L nissan - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofV4eghOP_w)
hope it helps
I did check my lower timing chain two times, the upper timing five times and also checked the distributor timing few days ago. I was between 18 to 19 btdc.
I'am 85% sure that its my maf sensor or 15% distributor
evilamish
08-17-2012, 11:56 AM
I would first thank science for carb cleaner. I found out what was the problem by spraying the carb cleaner on the intake manifold. The car start to hold idle when carb cleaner was applied to it. So i pin pointed where the leak was coming from. I have found a large on a vacuum hose under the top intake manifold. So i replaced all the vacuum hoses and the car is alive :hahano:
Now i have to find why my check engine light is NOW throwing the code 105 and the egr valve was remove long before i got the car
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