Safe boost on sr20det

[jvega]

Hello people,
i am currently running my s13 blacktop SR on 15psi with a s15 t28

it has 555cc injectors
stock maf
stock ecu
Boltons
mid mount intercooler setup
Other than that, the internals are stock.
What would be a good boost level i should run??
I am new to the forced induction engines and i want this motor to last a while.
Any suggestions would be great!

[cotbu]

Safe boost levels are determined by the tune!
Your setup right now will last about 3years daily driving, and about 1year dual duty.!

Its like clockwork!

[wayneSR20]

15psi good

[StReeTz]

You should invest in a wideband. It's very important to monitor your air fuel ratios.

[Om1kron]

You should invest in a wideband. It's very important to monitor your air fuel ratios.

What do you do to your car when you notice the levels look funny, is there a magic button you press to make it better?

[Sileighty_85]

So how are you rocking 555cc inj with a stock ECU?

[cordobes]

^^ same qquestion here. and i dont think u safe running 15psi on stock maf an ECU . if u have 555cc injectors u need to tune ur ecu. i guess u running rich now ?

[dorkidori_s13]

seeing as that your in AZ, and youre running 555cc injectors, you will NEED a fuel computer, FPR (stock SR one is shit) and a good fuel pump. Id recommend you pick yourself up a PowerFC DJetro, Adjustable FPR WITH GAUGE!!! and a denso supra TT fuel pump.

because you live in such a dry and hot climate, you will bollox your motor in mid summer due to detonation if you dont tune your engine correctly. also with a T28, run around 14psi...anything over 14psi on a S14/S15 turbo will taper back to 14psi after 5500rpms (stock redtop turbos taper back to 10psi)

[Fullboost TM]

He has to be running rich unless its a rom'd ecu or piggy back EMS with the stock ECU. I wouldn't drive that too far to be honest not till you get a real tune.

[bornloser_182]

your at a good boost level

[Chrischeezer]

I wouldn't run anything more then 13 with a stock head gasket,
I've seen 100's of sr20's blow em out at 15.. but then again, its how you use it, and tune and... theres just so many variables.
I'd get a wideband air/fuel gauge set-up.

[jvega]

i forgot to mention the motor has a nismo fpr, i set it at 38pounds.?
And yeah it is running rich but not too crazy with the 555cc's
1 One thing that is happening is the oil dipstick likes to pop out when i race or boost hard.

[dorkidori_s13]

NISMO FPRs are garbage...get rid of it...get something made by tomei or aeromotive with a liquid filled, glass faced gauge

to correct your fuel the right way...you will NEED a fuel computer

[master305]

hey look i got a 89 coupe with what you have all you need is a safc and you will be good.. cause i got all that with a lil more work and i run hard as fuck

[Sileighty_85]

And yeah it is running rich but not too crazy with the 555cc's
1 One thing that is happening is the oil dipstick likes to pop out when i race or boost hard.

You got Blow by, Either the Rings are going bad due to cylinder wash from not having a tune and running rich or your crank case ventilation is not setup correctly

[jvega]

Thanks for all the help guys.
i will definitely invest in a safc and a waveband.

and as for the dipstick pooping out, could it be that it has too much oil?
because i bought a brand new pcv valve before installing the motor.
right now oil levels are a little above the H

[dorkidori_s13]

Thanks for all the help guys.
i will definitely invest in a safc and a waveband.

and as for the dipstick pooping out, could it be that it has too much oil?
because i bought a brand new pcv valve before installing the motor.
right now oil levels are a little above the H

get your car tuned properly...then worry about the dipstick...the problem probably wont be there after a proper tune

and dont listen to that kid with the SAFC...a cheap piggy back is NOT the way to do it...spend the money, get an AEM EMS or Apexi PowerFC (or even a NISTune setup), get it dyno tuned and run around with something thats actually worth the time, instead of some cheap half assed way of fixing it

[Q.Smooth127]

Thanks for all the help guys.
i will definitely invest in a safc and a waveband.

and as for the dipstick pooping out, could it be that it has too much oil?
because i bought a brand new pcv valve before installing the motor.
right now oil levels are a little above the H

wtf...get a powerfc L-jetro (cause you look like your just running standard upgrades so a L-jetro would be perfect compared to a d-jetro, but d-jetros would be fine too just its for more advance business...but any powerfc is better then the safc.). Dont use cheap alternatives to tuning. Do it right or you will spend alot of money having to rebuild that buggah or getting a new SR motor.

Correct tune = make your motor live longer. I had my experiences (like alot of others here too) and YOU HAVE TO GET A TUNE, it will make your life better.

you cant go cheap on your car. its an expensive hobby, if it is too much for you, go to a rice civic and slap on those little mugen lips wit a fart can and continue to believe the little d-series sohc motor "pulls mother fucking hard".

[jvega]

what about a tune from rs-enthalpy? would that be a good alternative?? or a john wolf? (jk, i know its jean wolf, or gym wolf).. are those safe alternatives rather than a powerfc?

[statickx991]

What do you do to your car when you notice the levels look funny, is there a magic button you press to make it better?
LMAO i wish it was like that

[Aoshi112]

what about a tune from rs-enthalpy? would that be a good alternative?? or a john wolf? (jk, i know its jean wolf, or gym wolf).. are those safe alternatives rather than a powerfc?

Enthalpy or JWT (Jim Wolf Technologies) ECU flashes are definitely popular if you don't want to go with the whole PowerFC route. But if you decide to change your turbo for a bigger one, you'd have to send the ecu in again for a retune.

[exciting_sedan]

[
you cant go cheap on your car. its an expensive hobby, if it is too much for you, go to a rice civic and slap on those little mugen lips wit a fart can and continue to believe the little d-series sohc motor "pulls mother fucking hard".[/QUOTE]
^^like^^

[dorkidori_s13]

what about a tune from rs-enthalpy? would that be a good alternative?? or a john wolf? (jk, i know its jean wolf, or gym wolf).. are those safe alternatives rather than a powerfc?

ROM flashes are a waste of time and money...you dont drive a Subaru lol ;)...just buy a stand alone and get it over with...its one of the best things you can do for your SR...especially if it a redtop/blacktop SR seeing as they were all OBD1 style motors...with the PowerFC, it gives you the handheld controller which allows you to monitor all of your motors sensors and their voltage levels...OBD2 and OBD2.5 ECUs allow for this with a plug in diagnostic unit...its VERY handy when youre tuning your engine as well...if your TPS, IAC or O2 sensors are not receiving proper voltage, you would never know and your car wouldnt tune right...but with a stand alone such as a PowerFC...it will allow you to check for those things

and regarding the L-Jecto comment above...L-Jetros are a waste of time...PERIOD...MAFS is the WORST way to tune your car...even if you do something as simple as changing your air filter on a MAFS, your entire tune goes out the window on the L-Jetro because all air filters flow differently...hell if you change elevation your tune goes to hell...air velocity vs air density/pressure....air density wins any day...a MAFS is fine if youre running a stock ECU and a few bolt ons...but the D-Jectro is SUPER cheap...convert the motor to MAP and enjoy venting your BOV without bogging and never having to worry about your air/fuel ratios going to hell just because you switched from a $200 HKS air filter to a $50 generic brand

[Def]

ROM flashes are a waste of time and money...you dont drive a Subaru lol ;)...just buy a stand alone and get it over with...its one of the best things you can do for your SR...especially if it a redtop/blacktop SR seeing as they were all OBD1 style motors...with the PowerFC, it gives you the handheld controller which allows you to monitor all of your motors sensors and their voltage levels...OBD2 and OBD2.5 ECUs allow for this with a plug in diagnostic unit...its VERY handy when youre tuning your engine as well...if your TPS, IAC or O2 sensors are not receiving proper voltage, you would never know and your car wouldnt tune right...but with a stand alone such as a PowerFC...it will allow you to check for those things

and regarding the L-Jecto comment above...L-Jetros are a waste of time...PERIOD...MAFS is the WORST way to tune your car...even if you do something as simple as changing your air filter on a MAFS, your entire tune goes out the window on the L-Jetro because all air filters flow differently...hell if you change elevation your tune goes to hell...air velocity vs air density/pressure....air density wins any day...a MAFS is fine if youre running a stock ECU and a few bolt ons...but the D-Jectro is SUPER cheap...convert the motor to MAP and enjoy venting your BOV without bogging and never having to worry about your air/fuel ratios going to hell just because you switched from a $200 HKS air filter to a $50 generic brand

You've got it backwards, a MAF automatically compensates for any changes in volumetric efficiency because it measures the ACTUAL mass of air going in an engine, not a guess like on a MAP ECU.


To the OP, if you're blowing your dipstick out when boosting you've probably already toasted your motor. The dipstick is coming out due to blowby.

[Chrischeezer]

yuup, seen this coming..

" oh yeah 15 lbs, sure.. it will be fine.." mmmmmmmhm

[Fullboost TM]

It really boils down to how much you're willing to spend. Yes ROM's/Piggy Backs are a cheap and ineffective way to "tune" your car. Hell even Nistune/Power FC D-Jetro's/Megasquirt are all garbage basement management systems (Although Nistune has the advantage for the budget consumer.)

If you are worried about getting a REAL tune that actually improves your power considerably and has high power per cylinder control applications then you need a Link ECU at the LEAST! LinkG4,GEMS EMS, or even a Haltech are good EMS's.
You really need separate cylinder control of fuel at a minimum and very stable ignition control system.


Now as far as the load sensors (MAF vs. MAP) debate goes. Yes, MAF's are preferred for low horsepower applications because they are easy to tune with higher accuracy success rates and enable tighter control of emissions. They measure actual air flow and take into account barometric pressure, altitude changes, humidity, and ambient temperatures and adjusts fuel accordingly but also has a higher chance of failure due to its design, break the hotwire with a slight wall tap (combined with old crappy S-Chassis harnesses) and you run rich and risk engine failure. Another downside to MAF sensors is that at idle or low RPM situations there can be vacuum pressure which tampers with its accuracy, they also don't respond well to the cold since condensation can occur on the hotwire again leading to inaccuracy.

Now MAP sensors are praised for their simple and minimalistic design measuring actual manifold pressure (Pressure! which is Baro Pressure + Altitude changes) but does NOT take into account humidity. Then the IAT sensor measures the temperature and is read earlier by your EMS to calculate A/F ratios and improving throttle response over MAF sensors. MAP sensors rarely if ever fail/break, again due to its design. MAP sensors aren't as accurate and require a lot of knowledge to become so and in addition are much harder to tune. A properly tuned MAP based system is far more beneficial compared to a MAF based system on a forced induction car. Especially when you're running a car with over 450hp.

In conclusion they both have their pros and cons and ultimately it comes down to the users preference and platform/supporting mods and the tuners skill level. Hope this clears things up a bit.

[Fullboost TM]

I forgot to mention Blow-through MAF based systems alleviate vacuum pressure. So if you got a MAF, a blow-through is a must on a forced induction engine.

[jvega]

You've got it backwards, a MAF automatically compensates for any changes in volumetric efficiency because it measures the ACTUAL mass of air going in an engine, not a guess like on a MAP ECU.


To the OP, if you're blowing your dipstick out when boosting you've probably already toasted your motor. The dipstick is coming out due to blowby.

my motor is still fine after a weekend of racing. lol.. The oil dipstick might have been blowing out because i put too much oil. And im wondering if i could get my stock ecu to be tuned to e85? :wavey:

[Fullboost TM]

my motor is still fine after a weekend of racing. lol.. The oil dipstick might have been blowing out because i put too much oil. And im wondering if i could get my stock ecu to be tuned to e85? :wavey:

You need a lot more than an ECU change to effectively run Ethanol. Ethanol has less stored energy compared to Petrol and as such more fuel volume is needed to be pumped into the engine to achieve the same results. Benefits from switching to Ethanol include lower engine temperatures a cooler intake charge and is less volatile than gasoline which decreases the chances of detonation especially in a high compression engine. You generally need a high volume fuel pump upgrade (No Walbro garbage!) or a dual fuel pump upgrade with individual fuel filters (E85 is CLEANER than Petrol BUT eats away at the sludge in your tank/lines/rail/FPR that petrol left behind, loosens it and then clogs injectors). New larger Injectors are needed as well, to determine what size you need here is a simple formula. Remember you can plug in your desired HP rating too! (There are more formulas but this is a Lb/Hr which is the standard)

Injector Flow Rate (lb/hr) = Engine HP(1) x BSFC(2)
Number of Injectors x Injector duty cycle(3)

Then multiply the end result by 1.47 to get your size injector. This represents the difference between the stoichiometric fuel ratio of gasoline and E85. Gasoline being 14.7 compared to E85 which is 10.0.

[Tip] Getting a slightly larger injector ~30% than what you need is optimal! "Think welders duty cycle efficiency"


Getting more efficient spark plugs are mandatory to counter the loss of MPG's E85 throws into the mix. I personally run NGK Laser Iridium Platinum plugs, which are well worth the price for the six I needed. You also need a high flowing intake filter since you are burning fuel at a much quicker rate you obviously need more air to compensate. You need a PROPER tune with a decent EMS for all of this.
Yes E85 is cheaper but you use it at nearly twice the rate so that benefit is moot. However the cooler intake charge alone should be enough of an incentive.

Maintenance on an Ethanol platform is quite simple as well. Switch your filters every 500 miles otherwise you will start to bog down and lose acceleration power. Also synthetic oil ONLY! In regards to your question, remember just because your car CAN run on E85 without any supporting mods doesn't mean its healthy or good for your engine by any means. PM me if you need some more in depth details.

[anton1o]

my motor is still fine after a weekend of racing. lol.. The oil dipstick might have been blowing out because i put too much oil. And im wondering if i could get my stock ecu to be tuned to e85? :wavey:

Dip stick could be shooting out due to stupid amounts of blow by, ziptie it down anyway.

You can run stock ECU with a Nistune chipset on it, altho depends if its tuneable where your from, You will max out the 550cc's with E85 as it requires 30% more.

Since you only have a t28 740cc's should be fine, and you will make about 230rwkw as thats what ive seen many local cars make with your setup.

You can run the t28 upto 17PSI and it will taper down, but be alot more responsive off the line.

[dorkidori_s13]

You've got it backwards, a MAF automatically compensates for any changes in volumetric efficiency because it measures the ACTUAL mass of air going in an engine, not a guess like on a MAP ECU.


To the OP, if you're blowing your dipstick out when boosting you've probably already toasted your motor. The dipstick is coming out due to blowby.

im going to go ahead and argue with you on this one as ive sat on the dyno and tuned both types of cars with a wideband and a laptop...the instant an air filter is changed on a MAFS car (or removed completely), the air/fuel ratios went nuts...on the MAP based ECU, the only time the A/F ratios changed were if an adjustment was made the FPR or the boost was turned up

[imverus]

what about a s13 blacktop with these mods.

s15 t28
FMIC
3inch turbo back exhaust
z32 maf
555cc injectors
either enthalpy or JWT tune.

how many pounds will i be safe at with stock internals?

Any suggestions on upgrades or necessary parts that i would need to keep the motor strong and healthy for a long time?

[daryl337]

i will definitely invest in a safc and a waveband.


Troll?!?!




msglnth

[jvega]

Troll?!?!




msglnth

troll? what do you mean troll?:confused:

idk i think im just gonna go back to stock injectors and turn the boost down to 10psi so i can keep it stock i guess. Maximum reliability is what i wanna do.

[Fullboost TM]

That is a wise choice, at least until you can get a proper EMS to really fine tune your car.

[Def]

im going to go ahead and argue with you on this one as ive sat on the dyno and tuned both types of cars with a wideband and a laptop...the instant an air filter is changed on a MAFS car (or removed completely), the air/fuel ratios went nuts...on the MAP based ECU, the only time the A/F ratios changed were if an adjustment was made the FPR or the boost was turned up

The MAF needs fully developed flow through it. I can poke a hole in the hose going to a MAP and it will read wrong, doesn't mean there is anything wrong with the technology.

I've also tuned both cars before, and was smart enough not to do stupid stuff like run turbulent air through a MAF then complain when its reading changed.