High idle & Ign timing problems. Help!

[fukusdm01]

Ok so I've searched a lot and did some testing before posting this and I'm pretty stumped now.. My car has been idling high at 1300rpm, I've checked TPS voltage and its good at .46V closed 4.1V open. TB stop screw is not holding throttle open. I've taken apart intake manifold, cleaned TB, manifold and IACV. Injectors arent leaking. Cleaned MAFS. Changed spark plugs. I also did cam timing (lined up links with the notches at Tdc blah blah blah) My idle is still at 1300 after doing all of that. When i check with the timing gun, its exactly on Tdc not 15* (used the loop at the back of motor near firewall) I havent checked timing the other way with a spark plug wire inside of the coil yet. I cant even set my ignition timing right if my idle is that high because when i unplug the TPS the idle jumps to about 2000. IACV screw is all the way in. I'm really confused now on why my idle wont drop.. the only thing i can think of is the IACV is old and maybe need a replacement? oh yeah Ecu isnt throwing any codes. So what you think guys? This idle is buggin me ): And also, is my ignition timing at TDC because of my idle? sorry for the long post lol..:naughty:

Edit: So checked timing with spark plug wire inside coil pack. Got a better reading of about 15* +- but still idling at 1300..

[fukusdm01]

BUMP! c'mon zilvia.. i know a lot of you had this problem and fixed it.

[Sileighty_85]

Vacuum Leak

[ddf2006]

warm up your motor, then turn off and unplug ur tps, then start up and let ur idle go down to were it needs to be and adjust your idle speed timing with the distributer. turn off the car and plug in ur tps again and start car. idle should be good then. if im not mistaking the timing for a 240 should be 20 degrees

[VATOCLOWN]

+1 vacuum leak

[iLagX]

i'm having the same problem! How much does shop charge for vacumm leak

[bad dog]

if you run out of things to check , unplug your engine coolant temperature sensor and see if the ects is ok , this can effect idle , at 68 degrees the resistance should be 2100-2900 ohms

[fukusdm01]

What ways can i check for vacuum leak? the hoses on TB are all new and pcv hose is fine..how big could this vac leak be to affect my idle that much? So no one thinks that my iacv is just dirty?

[fukusdm01]

warm up your motor, then turn off and unplug ur tps, then start up and let ur idle go down to were it needs to be and adjust your idle speed timing with the distributer. turn off the car and plug in ur tps again and start car. idle should be good then. if im not mistaking the timing for a 240 should be 20 degrees

Ive done this numerous times and idle still at 13-1400rpms. Btw car is 240 with SR20det.

[bad dog]

the best way to check for a vacuum leak is to get something like autozone brake cleaner and while the engine is running spray around the-- head--intake--vacuum hoses , throw a rag over the windshield so the spray doesn't get over everthing, also pull the spark plugs and run a compression test on the cylinders, pull the fuel pump fuse first.

I did mine a couple days and read 170-172 on every cylinder. it set off the cel and i had to reset the ecu. getting compression readings is always good to have for base line data to use later if something else goes wrong.

[bb4_96]

If you've exhausted looking for vacuum leaks, try the coolant temp sensor. It sounds like your car is stuck in "warm-up" idle speed.

[fukusdm01]

Alright cool. I'll probably check this today with the brake cleaner. So if it is maybe my Ects.. how come when i unplug tps, my idles rise past 2000rpm. also like i said, screw on IACV is all the way down. On my girlfriends SR i unplugged her tps and idle was fine and steady at 800 rpm with screw all the way down on IACV. I also Unplugged her IACV with tps plugged and car almost stalled; my car doesnt do that. Maybe ill just go get a temp sensor anyway since its cheap lol.

[bad dog]

i would just ohm it , depending on the temp the reading at 70 degrees should be 2100-2900 ohms , if its hotter the resistance will be less as the sensor is a themistor meaning it has a neg temp coaficant , that is the resistance goes down as the temp goes up. also you will have to drain the radiator as water will come out when you remove the coolant temp sensor , if you are fast you could plug the hole with a rag when you remove the sensor.you don't have to remove it to ohm it , just take the connector off and ohm the two pins on the sensor.

[fukusdm01]

Alright so as im typing right now im reading the Ohms on the Ects and its about 1230 and climbing up higher slowly. I only started the car for about 2min to drive it in my garage. I think I found the problem (: hopefully..

The ohms should be way higher than that if my car was still super cold, right?

[Om1kron]

I should check my coolant sensor while I'm at it lol.

[fukusdm01]

Haha yeah ill keep you guys updated if this solves my problem. Just ordered the Ects from Frsport so hopefully ill get it tomorrow or the next.

[fukusdm01]

Okay so I installed the Coolant temp sensor, thought it would be hard to do but ended up taking 10 minutes with a deep 19mm socket lol. It didnt fix my problem ): but i found out that when i disconnect my IACV plug, my idle does not change at all. This was at cold start tho.. dont know if that really matters? gonna try when car warms up. So now im guessing the IACV was the culprit afterall? Hopefully I can find a used one cuz these bitchess are discontinued!