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View Full Version : PowerFC datalogit problems (map trace not working and no base map tab)


xiaphin
04-10-2011, 06:30 PM
Couple of problems with my powerfc datalogit. I have no base map tab, only IGN and INJ, which means adjusting the injector settings is a bitch. No Re-calc base function its greyed out. Running latest FC Edit 2.128. SR20DET2 v4.06

My other problem is that the map trace function within map watch is not logging/displaying data correctly. When logging only one cell has data in it no matter what rpm or load the engine is under. Just the top left corner displays data, lowest load and lowest RPM. Does this for everything not just an AUX input. Oddly enough if I have my live map watches on the screen, the individual boxes, they all change according to what the engine is doing so I know the data is being transferred. RPM's go up, temp goes up, AFR's change and match my wideband.

Any idea what is causing either of my problems? Any input would be great since I cant really tune my car with both of these problems.

VATOCLOWN
04-10-2011, 06:44 PM
If its an l jetro they dont come with base maps only d jetro does. the rest is weird you hit f1 right? what usb converter you using? i had an issue with the belkin converter.

xiaphin
04-11-2011, 08:05 AM
Its L-Jetro version so that settles that issue. I'm using the converter that has been verified to work by the datalogit manufacturer. Actually purchased it along with the datalogit from RX-7.com.

Yes started the log but even if I didnt record the log the current load cell should change on the screen, it doesnt. Running Windows 7 if that makes a difference.

herbieS13
04-11-2011, 09:07 AM
another fail for l jetro

xiaphin
04-11-2011, 10:54 AM
another fail for l jetro

Thanks!! This helps me out alot. :tardrim:

If anyone has any real ideas or solutions let me know. Very frustrating and these useless comments dont help.

VATOCLOWN
04-11-2011, 11:05 AM
might be windows 7 do you have a xp system handy if so try it mines works smooth with no problems but i have a xp laptop

e1_griego
04-11-2011, 11:07 AM
L-jet comes with a base tune...

xiaphin
04-11-2011, 01:12 PM
might be windows 7 do you have a xp system handy if so try it mines works smooth with no problems but i have a xp laptop

Have extra laptop so will try this when I get home. My buddy with RX-7 and D-Jetro had never heard of this map trace issue before but I did find one unresolved post from June 2010 on the yahoo datalogit group. They were also running 2.218 but using different SR map.

L-jet comes with a base tune...

Yep thats what got me up and running. Switched to enthalpy IGN map. VATOCLOWN answered my question regarding "base map" tab in datalogit, different from a base tune. Thanks though.

e1_griego
04-11-2011, 01:26 PM
Oh oh oh my bad.

I never messed with that with my datalogit since I guess it wasn't there haha.

xiaphin
04-11-2011, 06:34 PM
Got my other laptop and tried latest version 2.128 and still only one cell active. Using shortest cord I have. On a longshot I downloaded the SR20 FC Edit Ver 1.120, an older version. No difference.

Googled "datalogit no map trace" and found this older thread Datalogit Map Trace Not Working (http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=513596). Tried their suggestion (Under map watch menu, Options, Map Source and change from Advanced to MapRef or vice-verso) but it didnt work. Gonna shoot them an e-mail.

VATOCLOWN
04-12-2011, 09:24 AM
Does someone, anyone have orginal datalogit software on this planet? (http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/351980-does-someone-anyone-have-orginal-datalogit-software-planet.html)

try post #9 see if that works

xiaphin
04-12-2011, 06:27 PM
Does someone, anyone have orginal datalogit software on this planet? (http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/351980-does-someone-anyone-have-orginal-datalogit-software-planet.html)

try post #9 see if that works

Didnt have any of those options with the USB to serial I have. So I said F it and reformatted my computer. Reinstalled Windows-7, Datalogit off the disk, then updated it. Downloaded latest drivers for usb to serial. Went for a drive and it miraculously worked. Didnt do anything different. Annoyed that it didnt work in the beginning but whatever. Cant beat it for the price.

Thanks for trying to help me out guys.

xiaphin
04-29-2011, 05:39 PM
Buddy and I noticed the my injector correction values were incorrect and my logged wideband values didnt match up with the gauge. Rewired gauge to dataloggit per Innovate motorsports instructions online, which are different than those in the pdf sent with the wideband. Anyways I reprogrammed it for 0V = 9.0 and 5V=18 AFR with LCprogrammer and changed settings in datalogit. Now gauge and logged values match.

Then I changed the values to 67.0 and .01 msec of delay since I have Nismo 550's. Settings were 100 and .1msec, not sure how these got in there but somehow my car has been running on that setting for a couple weeks, just rich. Now car runs lean as hell at idle. Weird thing is that I loaded my old map and old settings, one the car was running on for a couple weeks, and still the same thing. WTF?!

Set injector correction back to the correct values of 67.0 and .01 msec. Maxed out correction (1.469) for the load cells at idle, still lean like 18 AFR. Bumped INJ vs. Water Temp values up for +30 to 1.5, and +50 to 1.25. Now idles at 13.8-15.0. Want it to be 12.5-13.0 at idle.

Is it normal to have to raise the water temp correction so much?

xiaphin
06-11-2011, 06:42 PM
Onto my 3 issues I need help solving. Have searched the help group but have not found a concrete solution. Tried fixing these myself but with no luck… yet .New to this but have read Paul R33 FAQ and PowerFC Tuning Guide on the celica forums both have helped.
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1. Problem - When car is cold it will idle at 2000rpm when cranked with good AFR's for 5-8 sec then drop to 600-700 rpm with lean AFR's 17-18.5 to 1 for a couple seconds. It will go back and forth for a couple of minutes then stabilize at 800-850 rpm with good AFR's 12.5-13.0 to 1. Car idles better here than it does at high 13's to low 14's. Car idles normally when warm.

Read one user on here say that it may be the MAF itself warming up. Also said that N60 mafs are known to do this on Power FC's.

Solutions –
1. Water temp correction setting for low load? (AFR's are fine with constant
throttle so I dont think this is the culprit) 2. Idle 1 and 2 settings along with F/C 1 and 2? All these settings are still stock.
---------------------------------------
2. Problem – Car hesitates / boggs after shifting when cold. Shifting at 2-2.5k at light to medium throttle the AFR's go lean 17-19 car hesitates then returns to normal. Does this until the water temp hits around 60 deg c.

Solutions –
1. Water temp correction setting? (AFR's are fine with constant throttle so I
dont think this is the culprit)
2. Accel inj vs TPS setting? Adjust for light – med throttle ?Played with the
duration but couldn't see a change. When car is 80-90 deg c it doesn't hesitate at the same throttle and rpm range.
-----------------------------------------
3. Problem – Idle hunting when water temp reaches 190-200 deg F. Have dual electric fans. Fan one kicks on at 190 and fan 2 at 200. Happens when putting car in neutral from any gear and coming to a stop. Will almost hold idle but then it hunts and the RPM's will go further up and down in until it almost stalls. Stall can be avoided if I stabilize it with the throttle. IGN timing doesn't fluctuate like I read in other posts.

Solution –
1. Bat V vs Inj setting? This is all I can think of. Bat voltage doesn't go
below 13V though.
-----------------------------------------------
Got an E-mail from a user on here who asked me "Hello, did you check the
throttle position sensor is working correctly?
- Khris"

So I checked to see what it was based on the readings coming from the datalogit, sensor/Sw THRO. I have 4.84 volts when closed and 1.1 at WOT.

Also checked it with a multimeter. With throttle closed checking middle wire it is 5.1 Volts and WOT it is 1.4 Volts. Wonder if the TPS is just outright bad. Have to check with some nissan guys this might be the root of all my problems.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

HYPNOTIK
06-12-2011, 12:47 PM
Go to the sensor check funtion on the pfc, with the car off and the key in the on position the tps is supposed to be .38? volts. I believe that's right, just pulled it out of my ass.

As for the bogging when cold, mine did the same thing. I just had to richen up those cells to keep it from going lean.

Is your 02 correction on? That may cause some issues.

xiaphin
06-12-2011, 04:58 PM
Go to the sensor check funtion on the pfc, with the car off and the key in the on position the tps is supposed to be .38? volts. I believe that's right, just pulled it out of my ass.

As for the bogging when cold, mine did the same thing. I just had to richen up those cells to keep it from going lean.

Is your 02 correction on? That may cause some issues.

O2 Correction is turned off. Looked at sensor check on PFC it reads 4.85 volts. But to make sure it wasnt due to my wiring, from auto to maual tps, i also checked resistance per FSM. Between pins B and C with throttle closed there .67 kΩ, at WOT it is 11.7kΩ. Believe it is broken internally.