SR20DET Studs, locking washers, nuts

[mrbrody703]

Hi all,

I don't have any existing hardware to install my stock sr20det exhaust manifold, turbo, and turbo elbow. I did some searching and sourced some items that should prevent any loosening issues. It may be over kill but these seem like good insurance instead of the OE locking tabs.

*Can someone confirm that the Turbo > Elbow studs are the same as the Turbo > exhaust manifold?

9 total (5 for elbow side and 4 for exhaust manifold side)
FRSport Turbo Outlet 8mm (1.25pitch) Stud
FRSport Turbo Outlet 8mm (1.25pitch) Stud (http://www.frsport.com/FRSport-Turbo-Outlet-8mm--1-25pitch--Stud_p_3095.html)

9 total to match above
FRSport Turbo Outlet 8mm (1.25pitch) Locking Head Nut
FRSport Turbo Outlet 8mm (1.25pitch) Locking Head Nut (http://www.frsport.com/FRSport-Turbo-Outlet-8mm--1-25pitch--Locking-Head-Nut_p_3096.html)

(This is probably the overkill part, but I want to do it right the first time around)
50 5/16” (8mm) NORD LOCK VIBRATION PROOF LOCK WASHERS
50 5/16 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/50-5-16-8mm-NORD-LOCK-VIBRATION-PROOF-LOCK-WASHERS-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35afd14aa9QQitemZ23058 2995625QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries)

I would appreciate anyone pointing out any errors I've made or any comments as well.

Thanks!

[didderson]

If I recall, you are correct the turbine inlet and exhaust flanges use the same 8mm x 1.25mm studs, but I think there are only 3 studs on the turbo outlet. The rest of the holes are for bolts. Put studs there if you want idk.

You can also order studs from Mcmastercarr. Halfway down the page I write up how I specced out my new studs. Rated stainless steel > Frsport imo.

I used oval top nuts that lock when tightened. You'll be hella interested in those, and you won't need the washers then :). They aren't reusable though, so get a bag of them.
Thread:
Project PSU blue, running in the 90's! : 240sx General Discussion - Page 13 (http://forums.nicoclub.com/project-psu-blue-running-in-the-90-s-t417061-480.html)
studs;
McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#93805a358/=brmqdh)
nuts;
McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3185/=brmqu7)

[mrbrody703]

If I recall, you are correct the turbine inlet and exhaust flanges use the same 8mm x 1.25mm studs, but I think there are only 3 studs on the turbo outlet. The rest of the holes are for bolts. Put studs there if you want idk.

You can also order studs from Mcmastercarr. Halfway down the page I write up how I specced out my new studs. Rated stainless steel > Frsport imo.

I used oval top nuts that lock when tightened. You'll be hella interested in those, and you won't need the washers then :). They aren't reusable though, so get a bag of them.
Thread:
Project PSU blue, running in the 90's! : 240sx General Discussion - Page 13 (http://forums.nicoclub.com/project-psu-blue-running-in-the-90-s-t417061-480.html)
studs;
McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#93805a358/=brmqdh)
nuts;
McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3185/=brmqu7)

Definitely an interesting alternative. I need to search more on the 3 stud 1 bolt for Turbo to Exhaust manifold connection. Thanks for sharing that.

Hmm what to do.

[ixfxi]

i dont care what hardware you guys suggest. only way to stop turbo hardware from backing out is to wrap your nuts with wire


damn straight, you know what im talkin about

[lagvoid21]

i dont care what hardware you guys suggest. only way to stop turbo hardware from backing out is to wrap your nuts with wire


damn straight, you know what im talkin about

So I looked this up and it looks like a viable alternative. Did you drill the bolts yourself or source pre-drilled bolts? I lack the basic tools to drill the bolts myself (vice, metal drill bits, or drill press).

Safety wiring methods (http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14014/css/14014_116.htm)

[lagvoid21]

If I recall, you are correct the turbine inlet and exhaust flanges use the same 8mm x 1.25mm studs, but I think there are only 3 studs on the turbo outlet. The rest of the holes are for bolts. Put studs there if you want idk.

You can also order studs from Mcmastercarr. Halfway down the page I write up how I specced out my new studs. Rated stainless steel > Frsport imo.

I used oval top nuts that lock when tightened. You'll be hella interested in those, and you won't need the washers then :). They aren't reusable though, so get a bag of them.
Thread:
Project PSU blue, running in the 90's! : 240sx General Discussion - Page 13 (http://forums.nicoclub.com/project-psu-blue-running-in-the-90-s-t417061-480.html)
studs;
McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#93805a358/=brmqdh)
nuts;
McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3185/=brmqu7)

Didderson,

You only used the mcmaster studs and oval locking nuts? You're not using the OE Nissan locking tab? How many miles since install?

[ixfxi]

http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/c5/wilwood/pics/020_safetywire.jpg

So I looked this up and it looks like a viable alternative. Did you drill the bolts yourself or source pre-drilled bolts? I lack the basic tools to drill the bolts myself (vice, metal drill bits, or drill press).

Safety wiring methods (http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14014/css/14014_116.htm)

a quick trip to the machine shop and you're done, you have peace of mind knowing that shit is secured... very low buck solution, plumbers use it all the time

Safety wire - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_wire)

it doesnt necessarily need to be that precise with the drilling, there are other ways.. not as accurate, but it works.

[lagvoid21]

Good stuff! thanks for sharing.