Hydro E-Brake Talk

[95KA-Turbo]

So I'm interested in getting a hydraulic ebrake set up for my car and I couldn't find any review threads about any of the options out there.

My goal for this thread is for people to post up what they have, how the install process was, and how it works.

I suppose I'll start with a list of what I know is out there, what they cost, and what they come with.

Powered By MAX Hydraulic Hand Brake:

There's the original and compact version.

Small:
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1297730802_2_FT233_p1070400.jpg

Original:
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1280256703_2_FT6567_p1060902.jpg


They both use a quality Wilwood cylinder, and have an optional stainless line kit (for an additional fee).

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1280256703_2_FT6567_p1060904.jpg

Straight from their site:
Detailed fittings arrangement for the optional Earl's kit:

Male M10 to -3 male goes to the OEM master's rear brake output and -3 steel braided line (which connects to the inlet on the end of the wilwood cylinder)

Female m10 to -3 male goes to the oem brake line that you took out of the OEM master and -3 steel braided line (which connects to the outlet on the top of the wilwood cylinder)

-3 male to 7/16-20 male goes to the larger fitting in the wilwood cylinder and -4 aluminum crush washer seals the connection

-3 male to 3/8-24 male goes to the smaller wilwood cylinder fitting and -3 aluminum crush washer seals the connection

90 degree fittings both attach to the -3 side of the two above fittings and the other end to the braided lines.

Price: $220 for handbrake alone + $120 for stainless line set up, so $340 total.



K Sport Hydraulic E-Brake:

I don't know much about this. Here's what it looks like, looks like it has a feature to use it like a regular parking brake.

http://www.enjukuracing.com/images/ksporthydro.jpg

Price: $185-190ish, including two 24" stainless lines that you'll have to integrate into your brake system....which I assume are fairly worthless.


Godspeed Hydraulic E-Brake:

I know less about this then the K Sport one, haha. It looks like every other random one I've found by typing 'hydro ebrake' in google. It looks similar to the K Sport one. They just offer different colored handles.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f263/kensua6/UNIVERSAL%20HYDRAULIC%20HAND%20E-BRAKE%20KIT/multi_1.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f263/kensua6/UNIVERSAL%20HYDRAULIC%20HAND%20E-BRAKE%20KIT/hydrobrake.jpg

Price:$160 w/o lines



Everything else looks like more of the same. The PBM one appears to be the best one to me, but from pictures I've noticed a lot of the K Sport units in Formula D cars. I assume they change out the master cylinder - but maybe not?

Like I said at the beginning. I want to hear from people with experience with any of these items. If there are review threads somewhere online post up the links, as I didn't see them.

OR if anyone has any custom set ups they've made, I've be interested in seeing those and hearing and tips on that.

[roboticnissan]

I have a pbm one coming in the mail.and I've experienced the install. It's very simple. There's is designed for more of a weld in place kinda deal. Couple of spot welds worked fine.

So far it.doesn't seem to work strong enuff for my 10 inch wheels in the back. But I've read a proportion valve makes a world of.difference.

Also iirc I read something about pbm designing a secondary rear caliper bolt on kit?

That should be sweet.

[maxtrbo93]

But I've read a proportion valve makes a world of.difference.

Also iirc I read something about pbm designing a secondary rear caliper bolt on kit?

That should be sweet.

I'd love to hear about your install experience with the PBM one as I plan on ordering.

A question I have yet to get a solid answer to is:
Does having ABS fuck with the ability to use a Hydro Ebrake?

Anyway. that rear caliper bolt on kit would be fucking sick, count on PBM to design more and more gangster shit.
Their oval exhausts might be going up for shipping soon, that'd be dope!

Edit: I hear using the Ksport ones and other's like it as a parking brake is a BAD idea, it puts constant pressure on the lines and is not good for them whatsoever, but im willing to be proved wrong. This is just hearsay, but i can definitely see it being correct.

[bb4_96]

I'd love to hear about your install experience with the PBM one as I plan on ordering.

A question I have yet to get a solid answer to is:
Does having ABS fuck with the ability to use a Hydro Ebrake?

Anyway. that rear caliper bolt on kit would be fucking sick, count on PBM to design more and more gangster shit.
Their oval exhausts might be going up for shipping soon, that'd be dope!

Edit: I hear using the Ksport ones and other's like it as a parking brake is a BAD idea, it puts constant pressure on the lines and is not good for them whatsoever, but im willing to be proved wrong. This is just hearsay, but i can definitely see it being correct.

Abs control unit is in the front of the car, The hydro ebrake kits I've seen interrupt the line to the rear brakes. There really isn't anything the abs unit can do at that point... not to your rear brakes anyway lol.

The stock 240sx brake system wasn't designed to have constant pressure applied for extended periods of time. I don't think using a hydro ebrake that utilizes the stock rear calipers is a very good idea personally. If you want a park brake get a secondary caliper setup or park in gear.

[rbs14kouki]

ASD is saling a oem hydro replacement or universal one (with its own reservoir , inline set up) ! I would go with those before any of the above !!!

[PoorMans180SX]

PSM also can make it "push" type or "pull" type, meaning that the master cylinder can be on either side of the handle, whichever works space-wise for you.

This is a good thread idea, let's finally get some info nailed down and in it's own thread!

[MidwestMyriad]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkaNrnwAyzM

Video of PBM in their S15

[Black240Ct]

this thread could be a nice collection of info!

i am running a cnc 'staging' hand brake.
i bought it off of some random rock climbing site i found on google.. was around $110.

with this i had to make a bracket to mount it on, and run some lines that i bent.

i started with a line from my master cyl through my firewall, then a junctions inside the car.. i want to redo this part with a proper AN setup to bolt onto the fire wall.. but from that junctions to the brake.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2423/3597084982_1cce74eb50.jpg?v=1244168716.jpg

then i ran the other side of the brake to my passenger firewall where it enters the engine bay again and routes to the rear brake block bolted to my frame rail..
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3566/3597086322_659a7157d6.jpg

here is the bracket i made and you can see the hardlines going to the brake.
This unit had a slanted handle.. i ordered the straight handle but they sent me the wrong one so on my old car i just made a new handle.
like this:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2533/3815949177_1e299526a3.jpg

now i have it replacing the stock location and have made a new handle for it
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2794/4323322056_721d962093.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4332738745_2f00e8a7df.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4409907242_b3c0a1b8ff.jpg

and this season i changed up the handle a bit
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/198043_590382896206_42501326_33479702_7355354_n.jp g

so i replaced the whole rear brake hardline from the master to the passenger side of the engine bay.

i like this a lot. locks up the rear nicely with hawk rear pads on stock s13 brakes.


hopefully it gives you guys some idea how i ran the hardline

[papa]

thanks for starting this thread!

im very interested in seeing what people have to say about the PBM, i would really like to do their's and run a dual caliper set up in the back

[95KA-Turbo]

I have a pbm one coming in the mail.and I've experienced the install. It's very simple. There's is designed for more of a weld in place kinda deal. Couple of spot welds worked fine.

So far it.doesn't seem to work strong enuff for my 10 inch wheels in the back. But I've read a proportion valve makes a world of.difference.

Also iirc I read something about pbm designing a secondary rear caliper bolt on kit?

That should be sweet.

So, the PBM hand brake will not lock up your rear wheels right now? I have 11s out back, so I definitely need it to lock those up, haha.




I really like that mock up to use the OEM placement, I was thinking about putting something together to actually use the OEM handle and everything.

[mendozasport]

i have read so much its confusing now , but my brake setup is kind of unique , i am useing z32 front calipers in the rear, so i need to now the size of the master cylinder thats being used that wont lock up
if it doesnt lock single piston clipers it wont move the 4 piston caliper

[slideways90]

i have the same cnc brake set up and i love it. its not the hand brake thats not locking ur rears up. its either ur pads or calipers. im running ebc yellow stuff in the rear and z32 calipers. im running 10" out back and i have no problem locking them up. i suggest good calipers and the yellow stuff pads because of there cold performance

[Shadowhunter]

The Ksport is also supposed to be available in two master cylinder sizes.

[Grenade180sx]

to the guys having issues by splicing a hydro inline to a stock rear caliper, its not gonna work the way it should. there is a reason why people run dual calipers. because without it, your now trying to force all of your brake fluid to the rear of the car, therefore losing the ability to use the foot brakes(if u use them like i do when ebraking) and the size of the Stock S13 calipers arent up to the task reliably.

Contact SPD metal works,Scott makes brackets for the 2nd caliper, it bolts in between the hub and rotor, same setup we are currently using on dais S13.

[Pantaloons]

the best bang for your buck out there is the ASD hydro e brake

u can also get an inline one and make it a pull back style

ASD Universal Hydraulic E-Brake (Pull-Up) (http://asdmotorsports.3dcartstores.com/ASD-Universal-Hydraulic-E-Brake-Pull-Up_p_18.html)

[KAs14slider]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2533/3815949177_1e299526a3.jpg


I want to run a cnc staging brake for a hydro. Does it "feel weird" or give you problems if you use it at the same time as the foot brake? Because everyone seems to say that its not a good idea to do this and that its impossible to bleed.

[maxtrbo93]

That ASD one looks like its only used for a 2nd caliper setup, cuz of the resivour?

Edit: I'm an idiot, didnt see the "pass-through" option on the drop down box.

[Future_gohan]

I just bought the ksport one with the lines. The ebrake is great quality, the lines they give you are short as hell, I'm hopefully going to just get adapters and extend them. UGH.

[roboticnissan]

So, the PBM hand brake will not lock up your rear wheels right now? I have 11s out back, so I definitely need it to lock those up, haha.




I really like that mock up to use the OEM placement, I was thinking about putting something together to actually use the OEM handle and everything.


yeah its like grenade says the fluid being split is just not enuff pressure.

ive not tried the prop valve yet tho. if you ride the brakes with your foot and then rip that handbrake locks up absolutly no problem.

[roboticnissan]

i have the same cnc brake set up and i love it. its not the hand brake thats not locking ur rears up. its either ur pads or calipers. im running ebc yellow stuff in the rear and z32 calipers. im running 10" out back and i have no problem locking them up. i suggest good calipers and the yellow stuff pads because of there cold performance


im running hawk hp plus pads and its not locking up to my preference. its definitely coming down to the amount of pressure in the line thats not there for my handbrake. i have a wilwood mc coming as well as a prop valve ill prolly install them separate to see which one is actually helping out the problem

[95KA-Turbo]

I am throwing around the idea of undoing rear brake line on the brake block in the engine bay and just blocking it off and seeing how my car feels while braking. Then I could just run the rear brakes through the hydraulic hand brake....so if I really really needed all four brakes to stop I can use my hand and foot to do it. My car isn't really a street car and I have Q45 front brakes......I realize this might sound like a dumb idea but its easy to try out.

[towlie]

Ive heard horror stories of hydro ebrakes with only one wheel locking, or the fronts and rears locking

Can anybody confirm this?

what are some ways to prevent this?

[Grenade180sx]

Ive heard horror stories of hydro ebrakes with only one wheel locking, or the fronts and rears locking

Can anybody confirm this?

what are some ways to prevent this?

the fronts locking?? umm install error on that one.. HOLY CRAP!

[PoorMans180SX]

Someone needs to do a full writeup so all these questions can be answered.

If no one has by the time I get my PBM setup, I'll do it.

Ive heard horror stories of hydro ebrakes with only one wheel locking, or the fronts and rears locking

Only one locking? Sounds like messed up calipers. And if you push the foot brake hard enough and pull the handle of course all four will lock.

[conrad_s13.5]

I'll probably be getting the pbm hydro, and running a seperate caliper set up for it in the rear.

Ive done my fair share of research, and trying out friends set ups.

ive notice on the k-sport, (and others similar) and pretty wobbley to the left and right when you pull/push it. So seams like on the track, giving it a little rough love would warp/damage it.

the cnc pulls strong with minimal effort or distance im sure cuz of the cylinder. The handle just doesnt feel natural to me tho .

another buddy of mine has the max hydro, hooked up and function, car just doesnt run yet....lol
But it feels solid to pull, and i could definatly see reflexively using it being comfortable

[travypoo]

here is my hydro e brake set up. wilwood prop valve with wilwood cylinder. havent tested it out yet, running d1 PMU pads and stainless lines so i hope it grabs well

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v421/travypoo/IMG00105-20110308-1807.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v421/travypoo/IMG00104-20110308-1157.jpg

[Slide~or~die]

correct me if im wrong but that per portioning valve is for front to rear per portioning right? so what good would it do for u to have on with a single line?
wouldnt you need a valve with on line in, then 2 lines out so it per portions pressure going to left and to right, so if your left locks and right doesnt, u move more pressure to right so now both lock.

jw? Thnks

[JM42]

^^It looks like he has it set up so his front brakes are getting 100% pressure from the pedal and that valve will limit the pressure going to the rears. it wont have any affect on the hydro ebrake, when you use it you will be only sending pressure to the rear brakes equal ammounts L to R so they should both lock.

Also to the 1% of the ppl who have more money than they know what to do with, Project MU makes a 4 piston rear caliper that uses 2 opposing pistons operated by the pedal and the other 2 can be dedicated to the hydro ebrake, nice alternative but not cheap

[godrifttoday]

here are some pics of the setup on an s13, it does WORK!!!!

Ignore the "fluid does not come out" once again IGNORE

(the reason it did not work before because I had the wrong fitting. And when I tightened it-it did not let fluid go to te other side . What u need to do I's get a special brake fitting that goes into the brake line. You flare it into the line removing the m10x1.00 metric fitting.( i bought the brake line from Autozone)

http://i47.tinypic.com/1zfha8y.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/oft5oz.jpg

[TEALSQUEAL]

here is my hydro e brake set up. wilwood prop valve with wilwood cylinder. havent tested it out yet, running d1 PMU pads and stainless lines so i hope it grabs well

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v421/travypoo/IMG00105-20110308-1807.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v421/travypoo/IMG00104-20110308-1157.jpg

Are u running a z32 master cylinder? Also did u remove the Proportioning valve/ fitting in the master cylinder? I am about to do my setup and was told I needed tO drill out the fitting in the master cylinder.

[chiboy002]

I am throwing around the idea of undoing rear brake line on the brake block in the engine bay and just blocking it off and seeing how my car feels while braking. Then I could just run the rear brakes through the hydraulic hand brake....so if I really really needed all four brakes to stop I can use my hand and foot to do it. My car isn't really a street car and I have Q45 front brakes......I realize this might sound like a dumb idea but its easy to try out.

it probably won't feel much different unless you're under heavy braking since the rears hardly brake when daily driving depending on how hard you press it. It'll just take a while to get used to since it'll be super biased

[slideways90]

just throwing this out there for ppl who have had probs with their hydro set up. if you dont bleed the hydro properly you will get issues, not locking up, one side locking up and what have you. also the proportioning valve ive herd is used to combat the issue of when you press the foot brake and the hydro one doesnt over power the other. case in point is when i am on the hydro and i hit the foot it will yank the hydro out of my hand and vise versa. you can use the proportioning valve to change the effect of this meaning how sever it is. the only way to have a set up that wont effect the foot brake is running a dual caliper set up.

[travypoo]

Are u running a z32 master cylinder? Also did u remove the Proportioning valve/ fitting in the master cylinder? I am about to do my setup and was told I needed tO drill out the fitting in the master cylinder.

no just oem master cylinder. i did not remove anything from the master cylinder though. can you provide me with more info on this. i know your not supposed to run the stock one and an aftermarket one, couldnt find any info on removal though

[theianmcdougall]

Alright guys i figured someone in here has a Ksport hydro ebrake. I got one that ill be installed in my s13 soon. It came with the useless 2 ft lines.

My question is, What fittings and what lines do i need to order to get this thing working?

[JDMStanced]

Does anyone have problem with not being able to lock up the rear?
i have a 350z with stock brake system with stoptech rear street performance pads. CNC staging brakes.
However, i followed a DIY who had a success with it but i can't seem to lock up.. can someone help me out

[Sileighty_85]

Just installed one on my buddies last week
he loves it and locks up great
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/Misc/hydroinstallZ33.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/Misc/hydroinstallZ332.jpg

[word sux]

just put one on my buddies e30 bimmer and its amazing


wilwood secondary calipers on the rear and all. shits serious. i want one!!!

[JDMStanced]

just throwing this out there for ppl who have had probs with their hydro set up. if you dont bleed the hydro properly you will get issues, not locking up, one side locking up and what have you. also the proportioning valve ive herd is used to combat the issue of when you press the foot brake and the hydro one doesnt over power the other. case in point is when i am on the hydro and i hit the foot it will yank the hydro out of my hand and vise versa. you can use the proportioning valve to change the effect of this meaning how sever it is. the only way to have a set up that wont effect the foot brake is running a dual caliper set up.

what is the proper way to bleed CNC hydro ebrake?

[DJPimpFlex]

I have a KSport in my car and I love it.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/9916_324692070424_521365424_9293438_4974957_n.jpg

Basically bent the existing hardlines up to it, interputing the line that goes to the rear brakes.

One thing that I have noticed is that no matter how well you bleed it or how well you install it you NEED very aggressive rear pads. I have Carbotech rear pads and it takes 1 finger to lock up 17x10's in the rear. If you run shitty pads you will have a huge problem with the effectiveness of the mod. Also the bolt on lines don't give the same feel as the shorter method I used. They also make it a bitch to bleed.

Also the "parking" feature is worthless, so my race car has no parking brake. If it was a DD I would probably keep the stock one and add this.

[GSXRJJordan]

Jesus CHRIST there is a ton of misinformation here. Everyone who has never used one or installed one should delete their posts.

First, the master cylinder has two front outputs (one for each front caliper) and ONE rear output ~ the 'pass through'/traditional style hydro ebrake sits in between this and the rear calipers (which are tee'd right by the rear subframe).

If you use a pass-through hydro, it will interfere with your brake pedal feel when you're using both at the same time.
OH NOES ~ SO WHAT?! This is how people have done it until a couple years ago, you can still stab the fronts to adjust your entry when coming in on the ebrake juuuuuuuuuuuust fine. If you're on the front brakes and you grab a little ebrake to adjust, the pedal kicks back at you a little, but the front brakes are still grabbing as long as you keep your foot on it.

Secondly, this whole "it's not powerful enough to stop my MONSTER 10" wheels" crap is garbage. I've driven in tons of cars with 18x10.5's and sticky tires that worked fine with stock S13/S14 rear brakes. My S14 had 18x12's with Pirelli 285's and I could lock up the rears on the freeway with a good yank from my CNC Brakes ebrake, with Z32 rear calipers and Autozone pads.

Note: mastery cylinder and leverage ratio do play a roll in how sensitive the hydro is and conversely, how much you have to yank the handle. 7/8" is "standard", 3/4" gives you a little more stroke to make the same power.

Finally, as far as brands go, they're pretty much all using the same designs. The K-sport brake is popular because they're cheap, can be set up as pull-up or pull-back style, and have the provision for locking (although like Matt said above, its not trustworthy on the street). Parts Shop Max is great, and ASD's stuff looks great as well.

[cbcm2435]

and bench bleeding it helps speed up the bleeding process when its installed

[worr20]

I'm gunna be putting one ony ls400. Seems like there's a lot of hit or miss with these. Should I go with the 5/8 cylinder or 7/8 seeing as the car is heavier

[Prove It]

Jordan is right...plus guys all you really want is to have that Willwood cyl....which PBM already has, but you can get these for like 50 bucks and just put it on the cheaper "bases" so to say(Godspeed,ISIS,Ect.) and save some dollas. my buddy had Ksport and the thing sucked, literally blew the CYL. within a month. In summary, Go WillWood, Bleed it Properly, and if your running z32 brakes all around Upgrade your master. K thx

[worr20]

So what would be the "proper" way to bleed the system? From start to finish?

[thefro526]

So what would be the "proper" way to bleed the system? From start to finish?

When I helped install a K-Sport Hydro on a friends Z, we used a vacuum bleeder. Only difference between a standard bleed and one with a hydro is that you have to make sure that the hydro is in the 'open' so that fluid passes right through it.

Someone may correct this method, but that's how we did it and it worked. (Until the K-Sport MC decided to go.)

[ka-titties]

I am throwing around the idea of undoing rear brake line on the brake block in the engine bay and just blocking it off and seeing how my car feels while braking. Then I could just run the rear brakes through the hydraulic hand brake....so if I really really needed all four brakes to stop I can use my hand and foot to do it. My car isn't really a street car and I have Q45 front brakes......I realize this might sound like a dumb idea but its easy to try out.

did you ever do this? results? i have 350z brembo's on the front with a 1-1/16" master cylinder. this combo should be able to stop my stripped s14 no problem on their own.

[95KA-Turbo]

I ended up getting a PSM ebrake off a friend for cheap and haven't finished installing it yet. I am waiting to install it at my friend's shop so I can use his air bleeder to make my life easier. So I am going to run it in line.

[Banegraphix]

I installed the isis hydro ebrake a few weeks ago and it locks up great with stock s13 rear calipers and autozone pads all i did was take the rear brake line from the engine bay block on the frame rail bend it up thru the floor on passanger side to go into the ebrake then ran another line from the other port to the rear brake block near the subframe. As Jordan said you can still use the brakes just the pedal kicks up a touch and IMO if your installing this you should also be installing braided lines to the calipers for a better pedal feel. As for bleeding i did it by myself with some silicon tubing 4 empty water bottles and some zipties, put the car on 4 jack stands open all the bleeders then installed the tubing on the nipple. Then i zip tied the water bottles to the struts and ran the tubing thru a hole in the cap all the way to the bottom, make sure the MC stays full and pump away till theres no bubbles of you fill the bottles then tighten the bleeders.

[worr20]

I installed the isis hydro ebrake a few weeks ago and it locks up great with stock s13 rear calipers and autozone pads all i did was take the rear brake line from the engine bay block on the frame rail bend it up thru the floor on passanger side to go into the ebrake then ran another line from the other port to the rear brake block near the subframe. As Jordan said you can still use the brakes just the pedal kicks up a touch and IMO if your installing this you should also be installing braided lines to the calipers for a better pedal feel. As for bleeding i did it by myself with some silicon tubing 4 empty water bottles and some zipties, put the car on 4 jack stands open all the bleeders then installed the tubing on the nipple. Then i zip tied the water bottles to the struts and ran the tubing thru a hole in the cap all the way to the bottom, make sure the MC stays full and pump away till theres no bubbles of you fill the bottles then tighten the bleeders.


Awesome idea!!! Im gunna try this. im also gunna go with a wilwood instead of cheaping out on this. ill let everyone know how mine turns out!

[s13 @ fullboost]

I have the pbm one it work okay I wish I had dual calipers would work alot better!!!!

[rbs14kouki]

just waiting on my ASD hand-brake !!!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/317514_10150432396484616_659294615_11076666_383997 9_n.jpg

[richmond82]

I konw this thread is old but i found this helpful as this is the exact ebrake i have and need to install

Hydro ebrake how to - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTzA_LeiumQ)

[az_240]

Any pics on s14 with center console/interior in place?

[hotlavaflow]

I have an Isis hydro ebrake. I would like to see pics of S13 with hydro and cable ebrakes still in and center console. I still have a radio so I don't want to put it through the din space.

[JFoxx]

any reviews on the Ksport dual cylinder setup? or is it just a gimmick?

[Silentoreo34]

Setup-
ASD 14" inch pull down with pass thru + the fittings they offer
Z32 rear backs
probably gonna run normal part store rotors/pads for now.

Haven't got around to getting lines yet but me and my buddy made little custom bracket which ASD sells but like 80 dollars and idk how/where it will fit so you your down to do a little fabbing/modding can save some money there.

We mount mine on the pass side center next to the dash(Look at pics) We Made the bracket and it was kinda loose so we add a backing plate to it which sits in the trans tunnel mounted with 2 bolts/washers/locking washers.

Will give you guys an update how hard it locks/how I like it.

Note:I know it looks like it hits the dash but there is about 2-3mm of clearance and doesn't hit either when you pull down all the way and release it (let go) completly.
http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i401/silentoreo/IMG_3956.jpg
http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i401/silentoreo/IMG_6988.jpg

[thatdrifterguy]

you must have really long arms to reach that far:hey:

[WindyCity]

that shit is awful. america. stock e-brake and some pads works better because you dont need to waste money on a dual caliper system. ppl need to stop relying on these to lock up the rears in a straight line because i bet more than half the ppl buying them get them just for that reason.

[Silentoreo34]

you must have really long arms to reach that far

6'2 and dem monkey arms.

that shit is awful. america. stock e-brake and some pads works better because you dont need to waste money on a dual caliper system. ppl need to stop relying on these to lock up the rears in a straight line because i bet more than half the ppl buying them get them just for that reason.

Honestly yes you are right to a point. A stock e-brake with pads will lock it up but the reason I got a hydro is because I don't want to deal with cables getting stretched overtime. I myself hydro for a few reasons but main one was I wanted it to be able to 100% lock up every time I use it.

[gallo]

there used to be a link to some brackets someone was selling to assist in licking you rear brakes . . anyone know what im talking about? maybe knows where the link is

[az_240]

^Yeah URAS sells them for a ridiculous amount.... GKTech sells them for way cheaper here>
Categories | GKTECH (http://www.gktech.com.au/categories.asp)

Picked some up but haven't installed yet.

[gallo]

you sir are awesome thank you

[KAs14slider]

I didn't want to start a new thread and searching gives now definitive answer. My question is, does anyone know the correct procedure for bleeding a cnc hydro ebrake. I have the one without a cylinder. I remember installing it and trying to bleed it every which way but nothing worked until a guy at a drift event told me how to do it and it instantly worked after that. It was some weird order, like rear left first, then hydro, then rear right, then hyrdo. Then the fronts. But I really can't remember, it was a few years ago. Now I want to re-bleed it but I don't know how.

[GSXRJJordan]

I didn't want to start a new thread and searching gives now definitive answer. My question is, does anyone know the correct procedure for bleeding a cnc hydro ebrake. I have the one without a cylinder. I remember installing it and trying to bleed it every which way but nothing worked until a guy at a drift event told me how to do it and it instantly worked after that. It was some weird order, like rear left first, then hydro, then rear right, then hyrdo. Then the fronts. But I really can't remember, it was a few years ago. Now I want to re-bleed it but I don't know how.

No change in bleeding since the inline master is, wait for it... inline. But yeah I use the same one (have for years) and give the hydro a couple squeezes when bleeding the rears just to clear it out.

[KAs14slider]

No change in bleeding since the inline master is, wait for it... inline. But yeah I use the same one (have for years) and give the hydro a couple squeezes when bleeding the rears just to clear it out.

Yeah but I remember me and my buddy were trying forever to bleed it. And the rear would literally not lock up even one bit. Then when I got to the drift event this guy gave me a very specific bleeding order. After we did that it worked like a charm. I don't know if its RR, then RL then hydro, then fronts. Or maybe it was pump the hydro, hold it, then do RR, RL. Know what I mean. What is the exact procedure that you do to bleed yours?

[godrifttoday]

I used the one man bleeder, just bleed like normal... Worked perfect! Just keep pumping until u have no air on the lines

[KAs14slider]

Bleeding it like normal totally didn't work for me. Had no rear lockup at all.

[status]

I installed my hydro last night. Used pedal only, since it was "inline" figured that would work... it didnt haha. Tonight i'm going to bleed the rears with the handle only. See how that works. Figured i'll pull back on it, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, then let the handle up. And do that a few times on each side. (starting with RR first) Any input on this?

[benarovi]

did you bench bleed the hydro? it took me like 2 hours of straight bleeding to get mine good. used a pbm with wilwood master

[GSXRJJordan]

I installed my hydro last night. Used pedal only, since it was "inline" figured that would work... it didnt haha. Tonight i'm going to bleed the rears with the handle only. See how that works. Figured i'll pull back on it, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, then let the handle up. And do that a few times on each side. (starting with RR first) Any input on this?

Driver's side rear is actually the furthest IIRC, but yeah, pump the brakes, then pump the hydro (and be amazed by how much fluid comes out), and then I typically will hold the hydro handle in a bit and pump the foot brake again, then it's good.

2hrs bleeding brakes? Unless it's some new ABS/Sensotronic Brake Cylinder shit, that's ridiculous. Couple pumps with a Mityvac on it, you're good.

[Chrischeezer]

ASD, inline 3/4 master, all hard lines
yeah, bleeding is definitely a bit troublesome, took me about 30min mixed bleeding with the pedal and hydro... I tried a mityvac, but it wasn't strong enough to pull through the cylinder.

[TTnickdizzle]

I have a question for everyone with hydros.... Is there anyone who is running a stock length handle with the hydro in the stock position? I tried and its impossible.

Im running a dual caliper set up with a ksport hydro (3/4 bore MC), -3An lines, with Z32 calipers, and new autozone cheapo pads. The only way i can get it to lock up was extending the handle and even then its like 10x harder to lock up than with the stock z32 ebrake system.

I thought a hydro was intended to be an updrade in locking power and make it easier to lock up the rear. I can see that with a long enough handle you can produce enough leverage to feel like its locking them up easy but thats all leverage.

i feel like i paid a buch of cash to have a lower grade ebrake that requires a big ol goofy handle to work properly. Has anyone else had these same feelings or is my set up lacking something that im overlooking.

[status]

I have a question for everyone with hydros.... Is there anyone who is running a stock length handle with the hydro in the stock position? I tried and its impossible.

Im running a dual caliper set up with a ksport hydro (3/4 bore MC), -3An lines, with Z32 calipers, and new autozone cheapo pads. The only way i can get it to lock up was extending the handle and even then its like 10x harder to lock up than with the stock z32 ebrake system.

I thought a hydro was intended to be an updrade in locking power and make it easier to lock up the rear. I can see that with a long enough handle you can produce enough leverage to feel like its locking them up easy but thats all leverage.

i feel like i paid a buch of cash to have a lower grade ebrake that requires a big ol goofy handle to work properly. Has anyone else had these same feelings or is my set up lacking something that im overlooking.

You should REALLY look into upgrading the pads. Read back through this thread man. Night and day difference. Make sure you bleed it extremely well. With a dual caliper setup you shouldnt have any issues at all bleeding..

[TTnickdizzle]

^ ive had a few people tell me new Autozone cheap pads are the best in terms of cold bite for a hydro ebrake . After reading back through the thread a second time i think i may just upgrade to a 7/8" bore MC and maybe some -4AN lines and see how that works.

[GSXRJJordan]

Autozone pads might be OK, but if you really want some good pads, go buy good pads.

Protip: they'll cost $90+, and they'll probably eat your rotors faster than Autozone pads, but holy shit does the fun level change when you've got good brake pads F+R.

[TTnickdizzle]

What pads would u recomend for some good initial bite? Im running Hawk HP front and rear right now for the real brakes but autozone pads on the hydro.

Is the brand of MC important for the response or is the Ksport 3/4" just as responsive as a willwood 3/4". I assume the wilwood will last longer but is it more responsive as well?

[Breakbeat93]

Can anyone tell me exactly what fittings I need for the wilwood master? I went to a few parts stores and no one has the fitting for the bigger port. WTF? I know I can't be the only one that has had this problem but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere on the web

[GSXRJJordan]

Which Wilwood master? The pressure fittings are usually 1/8" NPT on the new stuff, but the old ones were 3/8"-24 and the reservoir fitting is 7/16"-20 if it's threaded.

[Breakbeat93]

The .75 inline master. I found a diagram showing the fitting I need is 7/16 20.

I've been to 4 part stores now and no one carries it. Where the hell do I find this thing?
Is it hard to find because there's normally no pressure running through that port?
Where did everyone else get theirs?

[GSXRJJordan]

The .75 inline master. I found a diagram showing the fitting I need is 7/16 20.

I've been to 4 part stores now and no one carries it. Where the hell do I find this thing?
Is it hard to find because there's normally no pressure running through that port?
Where did everyone else get theirs?

Pick it up from a hydraulics shop, or order one from Wilwood. They're around, just not super popular.

[Corvander]

i wanna do this mod on my s13 but have some questions. what are the basics of it do you still run the e brake cables? what if my mc only has 2 ports and its already tight from the kat mani? what other parts do i need if i buy a k sport ebrake?

[shoguner]

The .75 inline master. I found a diagram showing the fitting I need is 7/16 20.

I've been to 4 part stores now and no one carries it. Where the hell do I find this thing?
Is it hard to find because there's normally no pressure running through that port?
Where did everyone else get theirs?

I JUST went through this.

save you a headache.
http://asdmotorsports.3dcartstores.com/Pass-Through-Ebrake-Hardware-Kit_p_124.html
Buy it from ASD.

[Terd40sx]

ah these are making me drool

[Breakbeat93]

I JUST went through this.

save you a headache.
Pass Through Ebrake Hardware Kit (http://asdmotorsports.3dcartstores.com/Pass-Through-Ebrake-Hardware-Kit_p_124.html)
Buy it from ASD.

Wow...wish I read this first. I got so damn fed up I just ordered the whole install kit from enjuku. Those fuckers wouldn't just sell me the fitting I needed. Closest I found after going to literally 15 places was a 7/16-20 w bubble flare just a little too short. I was planning to drill it out to an inverted flare and mill some of the aluminum off the master so if seated all the way. :dead:

[Breakbeat93]

i wanna do this mod on my s13 but have some questions. what are the basics of it do you still run the e brake cables? what if my mc only has 2 ports and its already tight from the kat mani? what other parts do i need if i buy a k sport ebrake?

Yes leave your stock brake cables on, unless you plan to remove your stock ebrake. Tight from the kat Mani? WTF does that mean? You would re-route the rear brake line to run from the stock master to the hand brake master then from hand brake master to the tee block by your passenger rear brake (where the one rear brake line splits into two). The concept is pretty straight forward.

If you can't bend/flare brake lines then just spend the 125 bucks and buy the install kit from enjuku (make sure you tell them it's for an s13, apparently the braided lines are dif sizes for s13/14).
If you CAN make your own lines then order the hardware kit from ASD shogunner just posted up a link to it.
Def buy one or the other. You will save yourself a major fucking headache...I probably spent 125 in gas driving around looking for the right hardware before I just broke down and ordered the install kit. I haven't gotten it yet but I've heard they're good/quality parts.

You will also need to find a spot to mount the new brake which will require some fabrication (welding a base at minimum) unless you remove your stock ebrake and buy this http://asdmotorsports.3dcartstores.com/ASD-S13-Hydraulic-E-Brake-Kit_p_21.html
If I could do it all over again I would have bought that and this http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/ER-Spec-Hydraulic-E%252dBrake-Install-Kit-%252d-for-Wilwood-Masters.html right from the beginning and been done w it in an hour

[NoPistons!]

I didn't read all the pages but know this, i had a blackworks hydro brake on my fc. I bled the thing i dont know how many times. did the procedure correctly. Used the brake correctly and it would just weep fluid past the piston seal doing nothing but slowing the car down a bit and then acting as though the lever wasn't pulled.

Just for the record i spent ALOT of time dialing in my car and sliding my car. it was a constant thing. Not a set and forget.

I recommend if you get a CHEAP handbrake you buy a wilwood or oem quality master cylinder to avoid problems i had with mine. Also not a bad idea to invest in dual caliper bracket and a dedicated master cylinder res for. If you're going to do it i've been told by pros and am's alike that run hydro setups and LOVE them to do it that way.

Best of luck. Have fun.

[SoCalDrifter]

ok so im down to last thing i need for my hydro i got all the good stuff already i just need to get the lines so i was wondering if anyone could help me out with a diagram or some info on sizings i need??.... im running the ASD hydro with the dual Z32 rear caliper setup on my s14

thanks

[elnino335]

this thread could be a nice collection of info!

i am running a cnc 'staging' hand brake.
i bought it off of some random rock climbing site i found on google.. was around $110.

with this i had to make a bracket to mount it on, and run some lines that i bent.

i started with a line from my master cyl through my firewall, then a junctions inside the car.. i want to redo this part with a proper AN setup to bolt onto the fire wall.. but from that junctions to the brake.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2423/3597084982_1cce74eb50.jpg?v=1244168716.jpg

then i ran the other side of the brake to my passenger firewall where it enters the engine bay again and routes to the rear brake block bolted to my frame rail..
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3566/3597086322_659a7157d6.jpg

here is the bracket i made and you can see the hardlines going to the brake.
This unit had a slanted handle.. i ordered the straight handle but they sent me the wrong one so on my old car i just made a new handle.
like this:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2533/3815949177_1e299526a3.jpg

now i have it replacing the stock location and have made a new handle for it
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2794/4323322056_721d962093.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4332738745_2f00e8a7df.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4409907242_b3c0a1b8ff.jpg

and this season i changed up the handle a bit
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/198043_590382896206_42501326_33479702_7355354_n.jp g

so i replaced the whole rear brake hardline from the master to the passenger side of the engine bay.

i like this a lot. locks up the rear nicely with hawk rear pads on stock s13 brakes.


hopefully it gives you guys some idea how i ran the hardline



see ima newbie at the hydo e brake and yeaa i keep reading mad different things my question with the set up above can that be used as the 'e-brake' like for a parking brake

cause i have a s13 as my weekday DD and a weekend warrior

advice could be helpful

[blusx]

So ok i just bought an isis hydro with wilwood and it only has 1 port and its own reservoir... is it just for a dual caliper srtup or can i still make it work? What about capping the mc on the rear port would it ruin the mc? Also did that one guy that was just gona run the back with the hydro and front with pedal did it work? How does it feel ? I know lots of questions sorry just want to be sure before installing

[status]

So ok i just bought an isis hydro with wilwood and it only has 1 port and its own reservoir... is it just for a dual caliper srtup or can i still make it work? What about capping the mc on the rear port would it ruin the mc? Also did that one guy that was just gona run the back with the hydro and front with pedal did it work? How does it feel ? I know lots of questions sorry just want to be sure before installing

Dual caliper.

[EvoVIII808]

see ima newbie at the hydo e brake and yeaa i keep reading mad different things my question with the set up above can that be used as the 'e-brake' like for a parking brake

cause i have a s13 as my weekday DD and a weekend warrior

advice could be helpful
In the first picture he has a Hydro, and the stock E brake. In the following pictures he has it in the stock location and im assuming its not a daily driven car.
The hydro SHOULD NOT be used as a parking brake, because the pressure decreases over time. For an event on flat surface i dont see it being a problem, but if you are daily driving and parking thats a big NO NO. (At least i wouldnt chance it)

[SoCalDrifter]

anyone know if you can make a ASD hydro a reverse pull? or how to do that?? its kinda hard to put it in a good spot in my 14 where i have it now i dont really get good enough leverage i feel

[Nixon]

does the proportioning valve work? if it does how do you install it?

i just installed the PSM inline setup and am having a really hard time bleeding it. it hardly slows the car down. (stock s13 calipers w autozone pads) i ordered EBC yellows to help

[tauntdevil]

anyone know if you can make a ASD hydro a reverse pull? or how to do that?? its kinda hard to put it in a good spot in my 14 where i have it now i dont really get good enough leverage i feel
PM'ed with a kit I make for stuff I think might fix your issue.

Was wondering what people thought about $220 kits with lines done? Seems somewhat like a reasonable price no?

[Breakbeat93]

anyone know if you can make a ASD hydro a reverse pull? or how to do that?? its kinda hard to put it in a good spot in my 14 where i have it now i dont really get good enough leverage i feel


The cylinder has to be compressed either way...so if you change the pivot point of the handle (so the pivot is above the MC) you would reverse the way the handle would have to move to compress the cylinder. Hope that made sense.

[di-devol]

One of my sponsors came out with a new way of mounting the e-brake.

https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1/1485076_243022822533430_1530058208_n.jpg

https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1/1517671_243022832533429_267384242_n.jpg

https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1545058_243022812533431_1845268162_n.jpg

https://www.levelrideconcepts.com/images/Product/accessories/hydromount_mdtrans.png

Thought I'd post it here.

[EvoVIII808]

Any info on the mount. I would like for mine to be in that location but sit lower down on the tunnel.

[di-devol]

Sorry, I forgot the link.

Link:
https://www.levelrideconcepts.com/pages/accessories_purchase2.html

[tauntdevil]

Damnit... was working on something similar but of course home made. Thought I would be able to share the idea lol. Damn :(

Looks good though.


The cylinder has to be compressed either way...so if you change the pivot point of the handle (so the pivot is above the MC) you would reverse the way the handle would have to move to compress the cylinder. Hope that made sense.
Explained the same thing to him basically.

[Nixon]

so does anyone have any experience with the proportioning valve?

[tauntdevil]

so does anyone have any experience with the proportioning valve?
Yes, great use for racing. Never really noticed too much use in drifting.

[Breakbeat93]

Sorry, I forgot the link.

Link:
https://www.levelrideconcepts.com/pages/accessories_purchase2.html

Will the s13 mount work for s14? I didn't think there was much if any difference in the tranny tunnel

[tauntdevil]

Will the s13 mount work for s14? I didn't think there was much if any difference in the tranny tunnel
It should fit. All you may have to do is maybe re-drill the holes with the slightly bigger bit just for some le-way of space. Normally S13 metal tranny rings fit on S14's as well so shouldnt have much of an issue. If you do though, just try the redrill as the changes will be very small.

[Nixon]

ok so i have the parts shop max in-line setup. i have stock s13 calipers w autozone pads. i was finally able to bleed it using a Mityvac vaccum bleeder. my brake pedal feels firm again, no sponginess or anything, and the psm handbrake barely slows the car down. my stock e-brake locks up the tires just fine. any ideas?

i think swapping in better pads will help but if my stock e-brake locks them up right now i dont see the use of the in-line setup. i think ill start saving up for the dual caliper setup :-(

[tauntdevil]

ok so i have the parts shop max in-line setup. i have stock s13 calipers w autozone pads. i was finally able to bleed it using a Mityvac vaccum bleeder. my brake pedal feels firm again, no sponginess or anything, and the psm handbrake barely slows the car down. my stock e-brake locks up the tires just fine. any ideas?

i think swapping in better pads will help but if my stock e-brake locks them up right now i dont see the use of the in-line setup. i think ill start saving up for the dual caliper setup :-(
Okay.. somewhat confused.
You have two hand brakes? Hydro and the stock wired handbrake?

If so, the stock handbrake will lock if you pull hard enough unless you have already stretched the cable. Hydro handbrake will of course lock the rear brakes because its just like slamming on your brakes but on the rear only.

Replace your stock cable and make sure its on tight but not tight enough to engage the brakes.

Hope this helps.

Unless the pads are completely worn down, it wont be the pads.

Goodluck.

[Nixon]

ok so

-PSM hydro in-line only slows the car down even though its been thoroughly bled.

-stock cable e-brake locks them up fine

so i dont think its an issue with the brake pads

[tauntdevil]

Something tells me you are bleeding it incorrectly. Have had many friends have the same issue and that was the cause. Try putting a hose into a small water bottle down to near the bottom of the bottle. Mostly use a vacuum line. Fill the bottle with brake fluid about a quarter of the way up. Just make sure its above the end of the hose and connect the other side of the hose to the brake bleeder. Then you can leave it open and bleed without having to worry about air getting sucked back in.

Also, make sure to start from the caliper thats furthest away from the master cylinder which in an S14 (not sure if S13 is the same but I dont doubt it) it would be the drivers rear caliper.

[EvoVIII808]

is you handle long enough to provide the proper leverage to lock the brakes? mine wasnt and had to be extended

[StatticMyke]

di-devol - that is killer. link didn't work for me. wonder if this would work with a rhd car or would it have to be rotated.

[di-devol]

For RHD, you would just flip it over.


Looks like they updated their links.

https://www.levelrideconcepts.com/lrc_store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_9&products_id=18&zenid=8hLue6qiBjjCLjOjhDxTG0

[DET240SX]

For RHD, you would just flip it over.


Looks like they updated their links.

https://www.levelrideconcepts.com/lrc_store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_9&products_id=18&zenid=8hLue6qiBjjCLjOjhDxTG0

I'm so glad you posted this link!

I have the ASD vertical-pull style one, and the base is so narrow I was struggling how to mount it on the trans tunnel. I can sleep better now lol

[gallo]

ok so i have the parts shop max in-line setup. i have stock s13 calipers w autozone pads. i was finally able to bleed it using a Mityvac vaccum bleeder. my brake pedal feels firm again, no sponginess or anything, and the psm handbrake barely slows the car down. my stock e-brake locks up the tires just fine. any ideas?

i think swapping in better pads will help but if my stock e-brake locks them up right now i dont see the use of the in-line setup. i think ill start saving up for the dual caliper setup :-(

i had the same problem.
-i had the PBM inline, i welded the brake in place with the cylinder off to make sure the seals didn't mess up then installed the lines. bled the lines over 5 times. confirmed with PBM i had ran the lines properly. the hand lever was super firm but would not lock up the rears what so ever. only when it was raining it would slightly lock up the rears,
-i tried to completely remove the cable handbrake to ensure there was nothing interfering, no dice. . i switched out for another set of used s13 rear capipers with auto zone pads. . no dice . .i did talk to PBM they said they would work with me if by the time i order 300zx rear calipers and it does the same thing they will try and figure something out with me . . .I was thinking its an isolated incident but your story sounds exactly like mine

[levelride]

We would first like to thank Our sponsored driver for dropping our name in this thread... All of our hydros are custom made to order to the customers specs... We make everything except the Wilwood cylinder and internal yoke by hand to order... We also make custom mounting plates for many vehicles including S13, S14, RX-7 FC, Lexus SC, and the AE86... Please feel free to contact us at 503.419.7803 or www.levelrideconcepts.com (http://www.levelrideconcepts.com) https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=559201444129784&set=a.559201417463120.1073741830.191586867557912&type=3&theater

[DJ 21o3]

I am a bit curious on exactly what lines one would need for a dual caliper setup, because you can't use the factory hard line anymore. I am assuming just buy another rear hard line and mount it with the factory line. Thanks for any answer.

[tauntdevil]

I am a bit curious on exactly what lines one would need for a dual caliper setup, because you can't use the factory hard line anymore. I am assuming just buy another rear hard line and mount it with the factory line. Thanks for any answer.
You can use hard lines if you want, it would just have to be the same as the factory setup where its a hard line to the back and into a Tee fitting, then goes out to both sides, at the ends, they change over to a flexible line and connect to the calipers. Thought its just easier to pay the extra amount to get flexible lines at the start, you can do it either way.

[Breakbeat93]

I am a bit curious on exactly what lines one would need for a dual caliper setup, because you can't use the factory hard line anymore. I am assuming just buy another rear hard line and mount it with the factory line. Thanks for any answer.


It would require a completely different set of lines from the hydro to each caliper...the stock lines would remain untouched.

One line off hydro. Tee one line into two, one going to each caliper. Done

[DJ 21o3]

It would require a completely different set of lines from the hydro to each caliper...the stock lines would remain untouched.

One line off hydro. Tee one line into two, one going to each caliper. Done

I understand that you can't use the factory line, hence why I suggested buying another hard line and basically run them both right next to each other. I will probably end up going with flexible lines though.

Thanks for the answers.

[EvilEgg13]

How does a proportioning valve affect a in-line Hydraulic Handbrake setup?

I know a proportioning valve controls/limits the amount of fluid that can pass through. Therefore allowing you to change braking bias front to rear.

I notice that some people use them, while many do not. What are the pros and cons?

[91ka24]

i had the same problem.
-i had the PBM inline, i welded the brake in place with the cylinder off to make sure the seals didn't mess up then installed the lines. bled the lines over 5 times. confirmed with PBM i had ran the lines properly. the hand lever was super firm but would not lock up the rears what so ever. only when it was raining it would slightly lock up the rears,
-i tried to completely remove the cable handbrake to ensure there was nothing interfering, no dice. . i switched out for another set of used s13 rear capipers with auto zone pads. . no dice . .i did talk to PBM they said they would work with me if by the time i order 300zx rear calipers and it does the same thing they will try and figure something out with me . . .I was thinking its an isolated incident but your story sounds exactly like mine

You have to run the z32 rear calipers for the pbm unit to work properly. I had the same issue with my car with the s13 calipers. It would not lock up for shit. Switched to z32 rears and it locks up my 265's with no problem.

[Johnny Coquí]

Anybody knows if the pbm hydro will work with the dyna pro wilwood calipers before I purchase the hydro?

[GSXRJJordan]

How does a proportioning valve affect a in-line Hydraulic Handbrake setup?

I know a proportioning valve controls/limits the amount of fluid that can pass through. Therefore allowing you to change braking bias front to rear.

I notice that some people use them, while many do not. What are the pros and cons?

I run a prop valve inline behind my inline hydro, just because that's the only place it would plumb in with my existing lines. Definitely will change the power your hydro has, but in my case I still have more than enough - if you were happy with the bias during normal braking and wanted more power with the hydro, step up a MC size on the hydro.

Anybody knows if the pbm hydro will work with the dyna pro wilwood calipers before I purchase the hydro?

Sure will.

[EvilEgg13]

I run a prop valve inline behind my inline hydro, just because that's the only place it would plumb in with my existing lines. Definitely will change the power your hydro has, but in my case I still have more than enough - if you were happy with the bias during normal braking and wanted more power with the hydro, step up a MC size on the hydro.


The issue I am having is that when just cruising the hydro has little to no effort, as soon as you tap the brakes and pull the hand it locks the wheels up no problem.

I have STI brembo calipers and am using a 3/4" master cylinder.

I have bled it per the procedure on here, as well as bled it using a power bleeder and am confident that air in the system is not the issue.

So maybe I need a different master cylinder?

[badbob2121]

Just intalled my PBM inline with Wilwood MC and line kit, and it locks the rears instantly.

It all comes down to bleeding it properly. I highly recomend trying to find access to a air compressor and pressure bleeder, makes the whole process effortless. I am also running Project MU rear pads, which are worth the investment.

:2f2f:

[Alex Rodriguez]

My ASD handle is really stiff maybe 2 inches of pull that's it. Doesn't lock at all has any one experience this?

pass through
Wilwood prop valve



http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z62/mazdatrix7/FD3S%20RE%20GT/20141003_175419_zpsedlgml60.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/mazdatrix7/media/FD3S%20RE%20GT/20141003_175419_zpsedlgml60.jpg.html)

[OBEEWON]

I did an inline. I keep getting air out of the passenger rear caliper only. Brakes and handle are soft.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3936/15468536002_b61f42047f_z.jpg

[badbob2121]

My ASD handle is really stiff maybe 2 inches of pull that's it. Doesn't lock at all has any one experience this?

pass through
Wilwood prop valve



http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z62/mazdatrix7/FD3S%20RE%20GT/20141003_175419_zpsedlgml60.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/mazdatrix7/media/FD3S%20RE%20GT/20141003_175419_zpsedlgml60.jpg.html)


My PBM Inline is stiff as well, probably close to 2" too, but locks perfectly.

[Turb]

Bought an asd reveres pull hydro e brake, with 5/8 master which is what asd recommends for stock s13 calipers and am running -3an lines from fromt master cylinder to rear brake and hydro pulls back maybe 2 inches but basically doesn't lock the rear wheels at all, hydro feels like almost too stiff like something is blocking the lines but nothing seems to be in the lines. Any ideas?