dspS13
03-12-2011, 06:07 PM
Doing a DSP build on my 1991 240. Everything was running fine as far as the functional parts of the car go -- e.g., cruise had never run, rear wiper/defogger not hooked up due to a hatch swap and I don't care. Lights, fan, dash work. Power mirrors don't work now but feel like it's something related to the hatch swap.
As it's allowed in SP, pulled the stereo - 1- OE head unit, 4- OE speakers (fronts had 2- associated 'amplifiers', rears had 1- amplifier for both), and 1- power antenna assembly. In doing so I cut NO wires, all were harness connectors. Stupid and un-methodical of me, I triumphantly threw all the dead weight in the dumpster.
OK, now, I DID cut one wire. Previously dip_____ had some sort of security system installed. Way back when I carefully removed most of it, I stopped pulling stuff when the wiring got too close to the OE harness. It had run fine ever since. However 2 wires IIRC went to some little non-OE red light that was installed between the climate controls and the head unit. It was hard wired to some light that stopped emitting once I removed the guts of the security system. It was a pain to re-install the dash parts with it in, so I cut it and bridged it (R/Y) to a black wire that was also cut. As soon as I tried starting the car, nothing.
1. Not battery. Yes it is a delicate Braille racing battery but it's constantly on tender.
2. Not alternator. If I could get it to START I could tell you how long the battery lasts (not it).
3. Not engine. While not a true full rebuild we had lots of things done to it (plugs, injectors, timing, cooling, IT-spec head) and lots of Royal Purple. Bottom end is beautiful I am told. Ran great multiple times for quite a while right before audio was pulled.
You can hear fuel pump prime. Accessories work. Nothing but a "click" from the Super Multiple Junction, no effort from starter at all to crank.
So far:
1. Since I junked the audio equipment, can't hook it back up. But I studied the FSM's diagram's and focused on the Auto Antenna Timer. Only lead out of that harness connector I got voltage w/ ign "ON" was # 3. So I tried bridging that to every other lead... mostly nothing but 2 out of the possible combos blew a 10a fuse and made some scary sounds out of the engine bay Fusible Link box.
Also bridged a bunch of the other possible combos. Nothing. Of course since I am impatient and stupid I didn't write any of the combos/results down. To me, ultimately, it shouldn't matter, as all the disconnections were from (assumedly) grounded harness connectors.
2. Builder said F___ the audio, only coincidental, check the clutch safety switch system. Jumped the switch. No change. Replaced the relay. No change. Jumped switch and replaced relay - no change. This really pissed me off, figured it was it.
3. Today, went back to the only 2 wires I cut-- the ones I think which went to the 'security system' idiot light. Checked back in how they were cobbled into the harness... they weren't jumped into any OE connections, simply led back to a grounded harness connector for the stupid security system. Whatever was on the other side of that connector I had removed long ago and the car ran fine many times previous. Anyway, re-bridging these wires - no change. Connecting the black to a solid body ground - no change. No voltage or resistance from any of these damn experiments. Nothing, nothing, nothing, each time hold the clutch safety switch in with my hand and crank the key, nothing but a "click" from the SMJ.
Would've just throw in some sort of resistor to bridge these two wires... but they lead from nowhere to nowhere and should make no difference AT ALL to the starting system. Only reason I explored it was because a) last idea left and b) hoped it was some sort of anti-theft, i.e. you rip open the dash to steal a head unit or hot-wire it... and once you clip these two wires it breaks the circuit to the starter or ecu or something. ANNNNNNNNNNHHHH not it.
4. I'm totally f____ out of f________ ideas.
Car is stuck in a gated complex where I don't have a pass. So the only way to GET it out is to DRIVE it out. Please help... it was running like a bad ass and I just want to keep the ethanol from rotting the fuel system.
As it's allowed in SP, pulled the stereo - 1- OE head unit, 4- OE speakers (fronts had 2- associated 'amplifiers', rears had 1- amplifier for both), and 1- power antenna assembly. In doing so I cut NO wires, all were harness connectors. Stupid and un-methodical of me, I triumphantly threw all the dead weight in the dumpster.
OK, now, I DID cut one wire. Previously dip_____ had some sort of security system installed. Way back when I carefully removed most of it, I stopped pulling stuff when the wiring got too close to the OE harness. It had run fine ever since. However 2 wires IIRC went to some little non-OE red light that was installed between the climate controls and the head unit. It was hard wired to some light that stopped emitting once I removed the guts of the security system. It was a pain to re-install the dash parts with it in, so I cut it and bridged it (R/Y) to a black wire that was also cut. As soon as I tried starting the car, nothing.
1. Not battery. Yes it is a delicate Braille racing battery but it's constantly on tender.
2. Not alternator. If I could get it to START I could tell you how long the battery lasts (not it).
3. Not engine. While not a true full rebuild we had lots of things done to it (plugs, injectors, timing, cooling, IT-spec head) and lots of Royal Purple. Bottom end is beautiful I am told. Ran great multiple times for quite a while right before audio was pulled.
You can hear fuel pump prime. Accessories work. Nothing but a "click" from the Super Multiple Junction, no effort from starter at all to crank.
So far:
1. Since I junked the audio equipment, can't hook it back up. But I studied the FSM's diagram's and focused on the Auto Antenna Timer. Only lead out of that harness connector I got voltage w/ ign "ON" was # 3. So I tried bridging that to every other lead... mostly nothing but 2 out of the possible combos blew a 10a fuse and made some scary sounds out of the engine bay Fusible Link box.
Also bridged a bunch of the other possible combos. Nothing. Of course since I am impatient and stupid I didn't write any of the combos/results down. To me, ultimately, it shouldn't matter, as all the disconnections were from (assumedly) grounded harness connectors.
2. Builder said F___ the audio, only coincidental, check the clutch safety switch system. Jumped the switch. No change. Replaced the relay. No change. Jumped switch and replaced relay - no change. This really pissed me off, figured it was it.
3. Today, went back to the only 2 wires I cut-- the ones I think which went to the 'security system' idiot light. Checked back in how they were cobbled into the harness... they weren't jumped into any OE connections, simply led back to a grounded harness connector for the stupid security system. Whatever was on the other side of that connector I had removed long ago and the car ran fine many times previous. Anyway, re-bridging these wires - no change. Connecting the black to a solid body ground - no change. No voltage or resistance from any of these damn experiments. Nothing, nothing, nothing, each time hold the clutch safety switch in with my hand and crank the key, nothing but a "click" from the SMJ.
Would've just throw in some sort of resistor to bridge these two wires... but they lead from nowhere to nowhere and should make no difference AT ALL to the starting system. Only reason I explored it was because a) last idea left and b) hoped it was some sort of anti-theft, i.e. you rip open the dash to steal a head unit or hot-wire it... and once you clip these two wires it breaks the circuit to the starter or ecu or something. ANNNNNNNNNNHHHH not it.
4. I'm totally f____ out of f________ ideas.
Car is stuck in a gated complex where I don't have a pass. So the only way to GET it out is to DRIVE it out. Please help... it was running like a bad ass and I just want to keep the ethanol from rotting the fuel system.