Electrical Issue

[Touge Whore]

Ok guys, hopefully you can point me in the right direction if I can't figure this out today. Last night, on my way home, my boost gauge backlight started flickering on and off, but still worked. Then, the water temp gauge started doing the same thing. After this started happening, both of the gauges backlights went off, as though my headlights were turned off. My car then started bogging, all of the warning lights came on (check engine, battery, srs, etc.) and the lights starting dimming throughout the car. Finally, it died about a block from my place. Even with key out and lights off, the warning lights stayed on. If I put on my hazards, they would flicker very fast and my factory temp gauge on my cluster would flicker with it. I am hoping it is just bad ground, but what do you guys think? Thanks...

[KiLLeR2001]

How's that alternator output voltage looking?

[Touge Whore]

I'll check the output, but it should be good as it was recently rebuilt...

[eSco13ar]

Call Trent...he was the last one that worked on the wiring...wtf man?!? thats so random...lol

[Touge Whore]

Yeah, I thought I smelled electrical stuff too! He said what he did wouldn't have caused any of this, because it isn't related. I'm hoping wires didn't cross or anything like that...

[Touge Whore]

How's that alternator output voltage looking?

Well, turns out it was the alternator. The previous owner had it rebuilt about two years ago, so it's time to rebuild again, but to higher specs. Anybody recommend any shops in SoCal for rebuilding it to higher output? Glad it was something easy...

[KiLLeR2001]

I plan on going with a Nissan Quest alternator once my current one shows signs of failure.

Talk to codyace (http://zilvia.net/f/members/codyace.html) about the bracket you can purchase from him to make the Quest alternator bolt on.

[Touge Whore]

Wouldn't it be easier to have a rebuild shop have it spec'ed to the same output as a Quest? Just change out the internals for higher output? You know anything about that?

[S-Nation S13]

I plan on going with a Nissan Quest alternator once my current one shows signs of failure.

Talk to codyace (http://zilvia.net/f/members/codyace.html) about the bracket you can purchase from him to make the Quest alternator bolt on.

does he still sell them hoes.

Wouldn't it be easier to have a rebuild shop have it spec'ed to the same output as a Quest? Just change out the internals for higher output? You know anything about that?

Quest alt puts out more, not like the girl you took to prom..JK JK

[Touge Whore]

Quest alt puts out more, not like the girl you took to prom..JK JK

HAHA! It's funny cause it's true...good ol' high school ho's.

I know the Quest puts out 110amps ('93-'98) but I've talked to alternator repair shops and they can just rebuild the internals of the RB alt. to have the same output as the Quest. This seems much easier and cheaper than just going with the Quest alt. Is there anything I am missing?

[Touge Whore]

Well, I sent it to a local shop to get rebuilt to the OEM 90amp. output for $65. Guess we'll see how this works out later today...fingers crossed on fixing the car. Thanks for the input so far guys...

[codyace]

does he still sell them hoes.



Supersoak dem hoes!

Haha yes I do!

75 Shipped with a belt, 50 shipped without a belt :D Send me a PM if you (or anyone on here) needs a kit



FWIW: Neither the stock RB or SR alternators can ever be rebuilt to output much more than they make stock...their size/casing simply doesn't allow it. We do a ton of business with a local starter/alternator place and tried it a few times...no dice! This is why I developed the Quest kits :D

[Touge Whore]

Supersoak dem hoes!

Haha yes I do!

75 Shipped with a belt, 50 shipped without a belt :D Send me a PM if you (or anyone on here) needs a kit



FWIW: Neither the stock RB or SR alternators can ever be rebuilt to output much more than they make stock...their size/casing simply doesn't allow it. We do a ton of business with a local starter/alternator place and tried it a few times...no dice! This is why I developed the Quest kits :D

That is exactly what the shop said. Do you notice a significant gain in anything with the Quest alt.? or is it just for ease of accessing parts and what not? Thanks man...

[Touge Whore]

Ok, well...they were able to rebuild the alternator to 105amp. output, which is good enough for me. I installed the new alternator, charged the batter, and started her up. Everything worked as normal, so I drove her around the block a few times to let it charge the battery. The car was running very strong, so strong, that when I decided to turn it off, it chose not to. When I turned the ignition to the off position, the fans and everything connected would turn off, but the actual car would stay on and sort of bog. I also noticed the Brake, Battery, and CEL were all on as well. I removed the fuel pump fuse from the interior panel to let the car die. When I put it back in, the car seemed to sit as though it was turned to accessories. Fuel pump was on, along with the dash lights. You guys have any ideas on what this could be? Did a wire cross or short? Thanks...

[Touge Whore]

Long Story Short
Car wouldn't shut off until fuel pump fuse was removed.
Dash lights stayed on after keys were out (Brake, Battery, CEL).
Fuel pump remained on after keys were out.

This is all after I replaced the faulty alternator. You guys think one of the relays may be stuck? Faulty? I need this car running! haha...thanks.

[Touge Whore]

I checked the relays and they seem to be fine. Only thing I could think of is the diode in the alternator. Could it be that it is letting power go by it? Enough to get power to trigger accessories mode? Thoughts? Ideas?

[Touge Whore]

Well, it seems to have been a stuck relay or something similar. After driving the car an hour or so, it shut off normally. The car doesn't stay in accessories mode once the ignition is turned to the off position. Anyway, I will update if the issue returns.