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View Full Version : hOw tO sAw Off tHe battery tray on the 89-93 chassis


lilaznjeff
09-23-2003, 09:39 PM
i a 240 that just finish the sr swap and i relocated the battery to the trunk waht do u guys think i should use to cut the battery tray
for a cleaner look and intercooler

silvarshootin
09-23-2003, 09:51 PM
i dont know if this helps, but when i did my swap/intercooler
piping(used a oddessy mini battery though), i just used a drill, vise grips, and a sawzall, also a lot of curses. my tray was rusted so i cut it out and the metal under it. it was all a pain in the ass, but worth it. covered the hole with a riveted peice of metal with a chunk from a civic hood.
have fun

radhaz
09-23-2003, 10:10 PM
http://dremel.com/html/images/home/main.jpg

Corded variable speed model

weirdstyles.net
09-23-2003, 10:18 PM
i ThInK yOu SHoUlD sToP tYpInG lIke a Fuk1nG mOrOn

Negreac
09-24-2003, 10:56 AM
Like radhaz said, use a dremel. You cant cut ut completly off, at least not on the DOHC models (I think the sohc are teh same, but not positive), because there are 2 mounting pints on the tray. One is for the main Fuse box bracket and the other for part of the A/C system(I think it's the condenser). Just cut the section where th brakets attach away from the section you want to remove and then grind the spot welds down on the section you are removing. It's kind of hard to locate the spot welds some times but you should be able to find them. After you grind each one down you should be able to pull the tray right off. It takes some time and alot of patience but it looks 10 times better. I just finished taking mine out yesterday. I'll post some pics for you tonight.

Negreac
09-24-2003, 10:58 AM
Almost forgot, there's another bracket which goes through the tray to the washer fluid resevoir. I just cut it off of the tray after I got it out and epoxied back into position.

019
09-24-2003, 12:34 PM
a hammer and a chisel go a long way, hehe. took us 5 mins to get it off his s14 cleanly.

Muzzy
09-24-2003, 03:25 PM
fuk a dremel..thats pewney...you'll go throught those cutting and grinding wheels so fast! wut u need is a "giant dremel"....u know...powered by compressed air.
much more powerful and uses a cutting thicker wheel.

the hammer and chisel will work well also...but a bit less precise i would say

MikeDeuce
09-24-2003, 04:03 PM
Thats why you use fiberglass reinforced cutting wheels for the dremel. I've used a few of those to cut through a 1.5"-2" thick solid piece of metal (timing gear that got fused to the crank on my 4age). I've used them to cut various thicknesses of alu and steel as well.

Muzzy
09-24-2003, 05:03 PM
yea i know..i got those too
u go through a few on a dremel...on the compressed air type...u keep goin on the same old disc.
also with the air powered type u can apply more force to cut faster

the head
09-24-2003, 05:16 PM
high speed grinder and a
Dewalt cordless drill
nuff said

TBreu007
09-24-2003, 10:55 PM
4 1/2" angle grinder with cutting wheel or reciprocating saw would be best.
Funny, I spent 2 hours shaping, cutting and welding a new on on mine to replace the badly rusted/missing one that was there.

Bill Roberts
09-24-2003, 11:11 PM
Damn, what was Nisaan thinking...they know that thing will get rusted out and the spot welded it in? I never paid attention to mine actually, looked hood sheen fresh when I replaced my battery. perfect, looked like it was even clear coated to boot. So it is spot welded. WTF did they not use a piece of hard rubber (like a boat gas tank) for that and screw it down?

Ok well, Another zilvia learning moment.

Nice tip (Kudos) on the fiberglass dremel tool grinders. I would rather do precision work than use a hammer and chisel anyday. Haste makes waste.

Negreac
09-25-2003, 06:51 AM
Originally posted by Muzzy
fuk a dremel..thats pewney...you'll go throught those cutting and grinding wheels so fast! wut u need is a "giant dremel"....u know...powered by compressed air.
much more powerful and uses a cutting thicker wheel.


You mean a die grinder? That would be ideal, but 80% of people don't have a large enough compresser to even run a die grinder let alone the actual grinder and rubber wheel. A dremel works fine for grinding down spot welds. You can get the tray out with about 4 heavy duty cutting wheels (the kind that come in like 30 packs for $4).

Originally posted by Bill Roberts
looked like it was even clear coated to boot.

Just for the record, the engine bay isn't even painted let alone clearcoated. They use a color matched primer.


I'll have to get the pics of mine up tonight, my friend needed his digi cam last night so I couldn't take any.

Muzzy
09-25-2003, 11:45 AM
...i guess that wut its called....
anyway every one should get a get a big compressed air tank!!
its almost essential...i know i use it a lot

speeddreamz
09-25-2003, 02:18 PM
This is the easiest solution, I cut a hole in my battery tray with a 4-4 1/2 " hole saw. Basically its a bit that fits on the end of a drill, which MUST be powered by the wall socket or air NOT battery. I just picked up one from home depot for like 12 bucks it cuts very clean and i used it on the piping for the i/c on the drivers side as well as the battery tray. The location of where to drill thru can be found at heavythrottle.com under the sr faq in the intercooler section. I recomend a battery relocation kit or customer kit.

Jeff240sx
09-25-2003, 06:10 PM
Originally posted by Weird Styles
i ThInK yOu SHoUlD sToP tYpInG lIke a Fuk1nG mOrOn

Good call. I think I should start deleting threads that have these titles.
-Jeff