View Full Version : Battery relocation question
drift240_2009
02-20-2011, 11:00 AM
Ok ive already done this to my car but this is for a friends build.We were discussing on locating it to the passenger side instead of in the car like infront of the passenger seat or between the rear towers.What do you guys think about the location? Will it work? If we decide to put it infront of the passenger seat, what do i need to keep it from tipping or sliding?
itwillboost
02-20-2011, 12:15 PM
In this class you would weld a battery box in place and putting it there, and you must make sure you take proper precautionary measures. I assume this is going to be strictly a track car so I would check the rules of your local track.
Schassis707
02-20-2011, 04:41 PM
Most of the time you will need the battery box, a killswitch and a fuseable link if the battery is located behind the firewall
drift240_2009
02-20-2011, 09:38 PM
It is both a daily and track car. He doesnt want to weld it incase he sells the car in the future.
drift240_2009
02-20-2011, 09:39 PM
It is both a daily and track car. He doesnt want to weld it incase he sells the car in the future.
On my daily the battery is in a box in the back,but no killswitch,etc.Would he necessarily need it if hes dd the car more than it being on the track?
Schassis707
02-20-2011, 10:42 PM
it all depends on what the local track rules are
drift240_2009
02-21-2011, 10:18 PM
most said if it runs run it, others are like must have something to hold it down because it is just sitting there.
hOngsterr
02-21-2011, 10:53 PM
put it in the trunk, with a tie down box. bam your done.
codyace
02-22-2011, 07:36 AM
put it in the trunk, with a tie down box. bam your done.
Pretty much!
To the OP: If you're goign to do ANY sort of track with it, you'll need a kill switch, a vent, and an approved case.
drift240_2009
02-22-2011, 11:17 AM
what do you mean by a vent? If its in a box, theres no venting there?Plus if its still in the engine bay it has plenty of venting. Second, on my daily track, i had an odyssey battey in the same spot where the battery originated and have my short intake there. No killswitch connected to it, but my alarm has a fuel pump killswitch built in anyways to electronically kill the pump.
BoostSlideWayz
02-22-2011, 11:50 AM
on my relocation i just put it on the left side of the trunk. Then bought a 10 dollar battery kit thats actually for a boat but it was nice quality and it just had 2 little brackets to screw into the body and a strap goes through it an you just tighten the strap over the box lid and you have a secure battery box.
JuMPiiN
02-22-2011, 12:03 PM
on my relocation i just put it on the left side of the trunk. Then bought a 10 dollar battery kit thats actually for a boat but it was nice quality and it just had 2 little brackets to screw into the body and a strap goes through it an you just tighten the strap over the box lid and you have a secure battery box.
This. I bought a marine battery box, drilled the slots in the passenger rear, ran the strap through there boom secure in a battery box. And I went ahead and cut 2 holes in the top for the ground and power wire it cost me about 80 bucks, the wire was the most expensive at 60$
codyace
02-22-2011, 01:43 PM
what do you mean by a vent? If its in a box, theres no venting there?Plus if its still in the engine bay it has plenty of venting. Second, on my daily track, i had an odyssey battey in the same spot where the battery originated and have my short intake there. No killswitch connected to it, but my alarm has a fuel pump killswitch built in anyways to electronically kill the pump.
Google battery venting for batteries located in cabin.
And if you put a battery in the car/cabin you need what I listed above. Who cares about engine bay.
Seems like you're i a bit over your head here a bit...
drift240_2009
02-22-2011, 01:49 PM
well, im not over my head neither is he. We just make it more convenient for ourselves who dont have the luxory to have the drills and money to get a kit. My rent is basically my whole paycheck so there isnt any room to do a professional battery relocation.
shiftdrift
02-22-2011, 02:36 PM
you know what, since you don't want to take people's opinions just bolt it down in front of the passenger seat in a box with no vent. let us know how it goes if you live through it.
enkei2k
02-22-2011, 02:49 PM
if your paycheck is your rent, shouldn't you NOT do things like this and spend your money on more important things like food? i think i've heard this before somewhere actually...jussayin'
codyace
02-22-2011, 04:00 PM
well, im not over my head neither is he. We just make it more convenient for ourselves who dont have the luxory to have the drills and money to get a kit. My rent is basically my whole paycheck so there isnt any room to do a professional battery relocation.
THe best advice I could give you, is to reevaluate your lifestyle, and maybe plan it out a bit better. If you can barely pay the bills and rent, then why on earth are you even attempting at modding a car? Sadly you're not alone with that way of life...and all it results in is garbage.
*sigh* sad that so many people are content with half assing everything...no wonder why so many 240's are slapped together 2 dollar shitpiles anymore.
Listen to some of us who have been around a while, or maybe have a 'bit' more life experience than you. I'm not the oldest guy, but even at 16 I knew better than to dump everything I made from work into a stupid car.
JuMPiiN
02-22-2011, 04:09 PM
70 bucks for a safe easy relocation?? Thats far from expensive. You dont even need a drill. Self taping screws will suffice just saying. if your that strapped for cash make your own battery box. It isn't hard but 10 bucks for a vented marine box and like 70 more on 0ga wire and terminals.
drift240_2009
02-22-2011, 07:02 PM
None of yu are listening. Im not paying for the stuff, my friend is. Im just helping to put it in. Your giving advice to me like IM the one putting it in and buying the stuff. There was nothing in my thread description that im doing all the work. I said me and my friend are. I am now telling you its his car he's buying everything. I have no control over what he does with his money. I so happen to have driven and tracked my own car with my battery relocation for more than 4 years and have never had an issue. So stop telling ME what to do instead tell me what to tell my friend. Because this thread was all about his build not mine. So get your heads out of______ and read my thread again or do not reply.
Im about to get MY mechanic to help us and his track car/track car has no box, no vent,no killswitch or anything and his driven the car for over 10 years and says kids only use boxes and the other stuff. He has his on scca car and a drift car and both just have the batteries sitting there with no box, just held down if its in the car but if its in the motor bay its just there.:gives: where you put the battery. Its just like if you want a/c or not. Its the owners choice how he wants it.I mean really :gives::D
codyace
02-22-2011, 09:21 PM
None of yu are listening. Im not paying for the stuff, my friend is. Im just helping to put it in. Your giving advice to me like IM the one putting it in and buying the stuff. There was nothing in my thread description that im doing all the work. I said me and my friend are. I am now telling you its his car he's buying everything. I have no control over what he does with his money. I so happen to have driven and tracked my own car with my battery relocation for more than 4 years and have never had an issue. So stop telling ME what to do instead tell me what to tell my friend. Because this thread was all about his build not mine. So get your heads out of______ and read my thread again or do not reply.
Why not tell YOUR dumbass friend to sign up and ask questions, instead of letting you post? Instead of trying to save face about the situation, why not just admit to not knowing.
PS: Track <> Walmart parking lot. Any organization worth 2 shits will explicitly type out their rules regarding battery placement. I don't care if you have 40 years of 'track'...it's not right, nor does it fit into any major sanctioning body guidelines.
Im about to get MY mechanic to help us and his track car/track car has no box, no vent,no killswitch or anything and his driven the car for over 10 years and says kids only use boxes and the other stuff. He has his on scca car and a drift car and both just have the batteries sitting there with no box, just held down if its in the car but if its in the motor bay its just there.:gives: where you put the battery. Its just like if you want a/c or not. Its the owners choice how he wants it.I mean really :gives::D
Your 'mechanic' is equally as big as shmuck as you it seems. Could it be that 'your mechanic' doesn't exist, and it's 'you' trying to act abvoe us?
Since I have nothing better to do tonight, here are some rule excerpts from the major sanctioning/rule bodies. Unsure what 'you and your mechanic' run at, but it sounds like some haphazzard junk if you ask me.
You sir, are a dumbass. Plain and simple. You may be able to impress the 2fast2Furious kids with your drift rocket, but your stupidity shines way to brightly here to win any fans. Spend less time on Zilvia, and maybe focus on graduating high school.
NHRA:
From the NHRA rulebook :
Cutoffs:
Master cutoff switch is mandatory when battery is relocated. An electrical power cutoff switch (only one) must be installed in the REARMOST part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from the outside of the car body. The cutoff switch must be connected to the POSITIVE side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word OFF. If the switch is push/pull type, push must be the action of shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn on. Any rods of cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8 inch diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited.
8.1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted and may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch (.6 mm) steel or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is re-located in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch (.6 mm) or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum, or FIA accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery, and must be vented outside of body. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds (68 kg) combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements) is permitted. Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Hold-down bolts must be minimum 3/8-inch (9.53 mm) if battery is relocated from stock and other than stock hold-downs are used ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.).
KNowing not a single S chassis has a complete firewall in the back (aka: rear of seats) it's assumed you need a box. Same with mounting it in cabin.
So apparently you're not drag racing. That's ok.
Lets look at SCCA (PS: Becaus your mechanic does 1 or 2 track days a year doesn't make him a racer....SCCA is a grossly misued generic term for guys that track cars...it could be an HPDE or a Solo/Class guy.
SOLO:
Annual Inspection
17) Any wet-cell battery moved from the manufacturer’s original location shall be in a non-conductive, marine-type container or equivalent and the “hot” terminal shall be insulated. All batteries (on-board
power supplies) shall be attached securely to the frame or chassis
structure independent of the marine-type container. NOTE: This will
allow the use of gel cell or dry cell (AGM) batteries without a nonconductive, marine-type container where applicable.
15.9
C. Relocation of the battery or batteries is permitted but not into the
passenger compartment. If the battery is relocated and the original battery tray can be removed by simply unbolting it, the tray may
be removed, or relocated with the battery. Holes may be drilled for
mounting or passage of cables. Longer or shorter cables may be
substituted to permit relocation. The number of battery or batteries
may not be changed from stock. The area behind the rearmost seat
is not considered to be within the passenger compartment. The area
under the rearmost seat is considered to be within the passenger
compartment.
Safety:
2. Master Switch - All cars shall be equipped with a master switch
easily accessible from outside the car. Spec Racer Fords shall be
wired per RFSRII. The master switch shall be installed directly in
either battery cable and shall cut all electrical circuits but not an
on-board fire system, if so equipped. It shall be clearly marked by
the international marking of a spark in a blue triangle and mounted in a standard location. OFF position shall be clearly indicated
at the master switch location. The standard locations shall be as
follows:
a. FORMULA AND SPORTS RACING CARS — In proximity to
the right-hand member of the roll bar, but in a location so that
it cannot be operated accidentally. It can be mounted on a
bracket welded to the inside of the upright member or mounted
so that the operating lever or knob is outside of the body panel
immediately inboard of the upright member.
b. CLOSED SPORTS RACING CARS, PRODUCTION CARS,
AND GT CARS - In front of the windshield on either the cowl
or on top of the fender, but close enough to the windshield to
18. MODIFIED CATEGORY — 135
be accessible if the car is overturned. Alternatively, it may be
mounted below the center of the rear window or on a bracket
welded, clamped or bolted to the roll cage or dash, easily accessible through the open window. (Drilling of holes in roll cage
to attach the bracket is prohibited.)
c. OPEN PRODUCTION and GT Cars - May exercise a choice
among the above locations.
Track and Club Trials:
10.9. BATTERIES
Battery location is unrestricted within the bodywork (except Showroom Stock, Spec Miata, Touring, and Improved Touring). If
located in the driver/passenger compartment, wet cell batteries shall be in a nonconductive marine type container or equivalent.
The hot terminal shall be insulated on all cars. All batteries (on-board power supplies) shall be attached securely to the frame or
chassis structure independent of the marine type container.
SCCA PRO:
2.8.8: ELECTRICAL
2.8.8.1: A Master Electrical Cut-Off Switch must be equipped per
Appendix D.
2.8.8.1: The battery shall be mounted within a spill proof, non-conductive, battery box, or completely bulkheaded from the cockpit. A battery
box that is normally electrically conductive may be coated, or lined,
with a non-conductive material to meet this rule.
(ETC ETC< http://www.mx-5cup.com/files/misc/2011_PRR_V04.pdf)
Formula Drift:
3.5.2 Battery
The battery must be securely mounted and the positive terminal completely
insulated to avoid contact with any other metal parts. Batteries may be
relocated. If the battery is located in the driver’s compartment, it must in a
sealed box bolted to the unibody/chassis with the battery securely fastened
inside the box and properly vented and drained.
Formula D:
3.5.2 Battery
The battery must be securely mounted and the positive terminal completely
insulated to avoid contact with any other metal parts. Batteries may be
relocated. If the battery is located in the driver’s compartment, it must in a
sealed box bolted to the unibody/chassis with the battery securely fastened
inside the box and properly vented and drained.
shiftdrift
02-22-2011, 09:31 PM
zing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sidewayz240
02-23-2011, 10:14 AM
Yeah, why tie your battery down? why have an inline fuse? When I get in an accident I'd love to have a 60lbs brick projectile flying around my cabin and live wires shorting out ready to start a fire.
It seems that you sir, lack some common sense. As does your "mechanic".
drift240_2009
02-23-2011, 10:33 AM
Its more common sense to not have a fire in the car than in the motor bay. What if you cant get out? What would you do then,sit there and die? No, id rather have the bay on fire and gtfo of my car and use the extinguisher. Its happened once and i was happy i was out alive. Second This was before i was on here. I had 2 s14s and one had a battery in the back with killswitch etc etc. other was in the bay. The one in the back would never crank,would flood and start fires in the trunk. The other never had much problems except minor fires and still ran. I had the one in the back done by a performance shop that eats,sleeps and mods cars everyday.I paid 500 to get it done safely and the car not working is what i got out of it.
Dont tell me otherwise because I just told you why i dont trust trunk batteries. :smash::fawk2: Call me stupid if you want but if I rather have my motor bay on fire than a fire in the back thats what i rather want. I got a 2jz in the garage waiting to install. Id rather shit happen to the ka-t before the 2jz.
shiftdrift
02-23-2011, 10:40 AM
Facepalm. Loss of better words
axiomatik
02-23-2011, 11:35 AM
70 bucks for a safe easy relocation?? Thats far from expensive. You dont even need a drill. Self taping screws will suffice just saying. if your that strapped for cash make your own battery box. It isn't hard but 10 bucks for a vented marine box and like 70 more on 0ga wire and terminals.
self tapping screws are not sufficient to hold down a battery. If you get into an accident, those screws will rip out and that battery will go flying, possibly into your head. I used a relocation kit from SPL Parts. It included an aluminum box with vent tube. I bolted it through the unibody, using fender washers on the under-side of the car. I wanted to make sure that the bolts could not rip out in case of an accident.
mattsil80wis
02-23-2011, 11:49 AM
if you have already done the relocation to your car why do you need to come on here and ask?
im too lazy to go and quote all the stupid things you have said, but you did talk about how YOUR paycheck barely covers your rent
you asked about relocating the battery to the back of the car yet you keep bringing up having the battery in the engine bay
on second thought with all the fires you keep having its probably better to let a professional mechanic (not yours) install it
i really just came in here to read everyone make fun of this kid haha
theboy
02-23-2011, 11:58 AM
farm and fleet marine battery box: Attwood Power Guard 27 Battery Box (Battery series 27 / 27F / 27M) at Blain's Farm & Fleet (http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/194815-power_guard_27_battery_box.html?lref=%2fcatalog%2f find.aspx%3ft%3dbattery%2bbox)
it will pass D1, SCCA, and NHRA. Boxes save lives, and if your battery is in the cabin it should be vented cause the fumes it produces will kill you whether you want to think that or not. You should really listen to these guys becasue everything theyve said so far is spot on and they have shown you rules. Your "mechanic" i guarrantee has never passed a tech inspection if his battery is sitting out in the open in cabin. And to be honest with you, he sounds like a complete moron that should never work on his own car.
JuMPiiN
02-23-2011, 02:09 PM
self tapping screws are not sufficient to hold down a battery. If you get into an accident, those screws will rip out and that battery will go flying, possibly into your head. I used a relocation kit from SPL Parts. It included an aluminum box with vent tube. I bolted it through the unibody, using fender washers on the under-side of the car. I wanted to make sure that the bolts could not rip out in case of an accident.
I didn't use that trash the box came with lol, I made metal brackets and welded them to the metal in the trunk ran a strap through them, tied the battery down and I'm done. I trust welds over screws and rivets for sure. I think I'm safe.
bb4_96
02-23-2011, 02:52 PM
If the battery in the trunk won't crank your motor you need a new battery, or new install skillz
Corey121
02-23-2011, 03:41 PM
A battery no matter where it is located should never start fires as often as your claiming something must not have been installed right.
jacobs13
02-23-2011, 05:37 PM
Yeah I dont think you know what your doing when you have "minor fires" wtf? My car NEVER has fires and im sure most of the people on here that actually know what they are doing dont have fires. Its really a simple project unless you completely dont understand, which i think is where you are at.
codyace
02-23-2011, 09:49 PM
Its more common sense to not have a fire in the car than in the motor bay. What if you cant get out?
Unless you have a way to put it out, it doesn't much matter if the battery is mounted to the trunk, or in the wheelwell...it's gonna burn down.
The other never had much problems except minor fires and still ran. I had the one in the back done by a performance shop that eats,sleeps and mods cars everyday.I paid 500 to get it done safely and the car not working is what i got out of it.
So let me get this straight. You can't even figure out how to install a battery in the trunk of your car correctly, need to pay some other shop 500 bucks to install it (LOL), and then come on here trying to explain to me that I have no clue?
Dont tell me otherwise because I just told you why i dont trust trunk batteries. :smash::fawk2: Call me stupid if you want but if I rather have my motor bay on fire than a fire in the back thats what i rather want. I got a 2jz in the garage waiting to install. Id rather shit happen to the ka-t before the 2jz.
Be sure to post pictures of the swap, I'm sure they'll be equally as entertaining.
FWIW: Have you ever driven a BMW? Many of them have rear mounted batteries...ever heard of them burning down at random or 'having fires'?
...man not even a thankyou for posting some rule excerpts for ya either...what a guy!
axiomatik
02-24-2011, 10:53 AM
apparently "minor fires" happen often enough for some people that it is not a source of concern?
Matej
02-24-2011, 01:08 PM
Mine is behind the passenger seat, at the lowest point in the car. There are holes in the floor there (from the factory), which I used for securing the tray.
redline240sx
02-24-2011, 01:25 PM
I think the most ideal place for a battery once relocated is in the trunk in a batttery box. I have mine in the trunk on the driverside.
If you do place it in front or behind the passenger seat, you probably going to want to strapp it down(two skinny poles that hooks under the car)
Likethunda
02-24-2011, 01:26 PM
Just take pics... and show us what ur talkin about....
acheron
02-24-2011, 02:43 PM
i have my battery in the trunk, in a battery box that i bought at autozone for dirt cheap. slapped it down, threw the batt in, connected wires and it still runs till today with NO 'random fires'
Ktown_drifter
02-24-2011, 03:00 PM
lol.. random fires.... just wow.. Have Battery behind passenger seat.. Have NEVER had a problem with it in 2 years.. its pretty simple. 2 wires.. ones a ground, can someone guess what the other is?? lol
acheron
02-24-2011, 03:05 PM
excuse me, i meant to say 'minor fires' as drift240_2009 calls it. either way its flames in the trunk lol..
jacobs13
02-24-2011, 04:21 PM
^^^ better than flames in the cabin, what if you cant get out? lol.
acheron
02-24-2011, 04:48 PM
then you sit there with your ass on fire and think to yourself, "i should have listened and bought a vented battery box and installed it properly the first time, ouch its starting to burn" lol..
drift240_2009
02-24-2011, 09:10 PM
Here guys, If this works, this is what im working on for my friend. This is someone elses car. This is what im working on right now.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs280.snc4/40338_10150248135845181_603100180_14242736_8156735 _n.jpg
This is what you all were telling me to do right?
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa259/veedubtech/240SX/240sx024Small.jpg
and the killswitch box :http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y238/JohnathanS13E46/Johnathans%20S13/DSC00868.jpg
And yea i have never ever put a battery in the back. Dont have a place to do serious modifications at my apartment. I have to do very little simple stuff thats not gunna make my landlord flip out. Second, i dont have the tools to make the cables myself, like a torch,etc.
JuMPiiN
02-24-2011, 11:19 PM
That first pic looks like hell, go get a 9$ vented box from autozone or something. It's neater than that and better than a bare battery.
BoostSlideWayz
02-25-2011, 07:12 PM
This. I bought a marine battery box, drilled the slots in the passenger rear, ran the strap through there boom secure in a battery box. And I went ahead and cut 2 holes in the top for the ground and power wire it cost me about 80 bucks, the wire was the most expensive at 60$
Really ? im surprised it didnt have the holes, mine had like little holes on the side with a bill over them and the wires just come out the side.. But yeah i mainly went with this exact same thing.
UNIVERSAL TRUNK MOUNT BATTERY RELOCATION KIT 2 GA..NEW - eBay (item 190393753303 end time Feb-26-11 09:59:10 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-TRUNK-MOUNT-BATTERY-RELOCATION-KIT-2-GA-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c545a1ed7QQitemZ19039 3753303QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries#ht_991wt_939)
drift240_2009
02-26-2011, 09:26 PM
see boost. Thats what im talking about. That kit requires you to put the connectors on the wires. I want them premade.
BoostSlideWayz
02-26-2011, 11:12 PM
Ohh i didnt notice that on the link. But i bought my kit and it had the terminals and hardware. Then i just saw the same battery box at NAPA when i was getting oil for 10 bucks and had to have it.
Heres the kit i got. Battery Cable Wiring Kit IMCA UMP NEW Relocation Combo - eBay (item 270635237534 end time Mar-13-11 06:56:34 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Battery-Cable-Wiring-Kit-IMCA-UMP-NEW-Relocation-Combo-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f031e009eQQitemZ27063 5237534QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries#ht_1341wt_939)
then bought the battery box separately. But the previous link in my last post was just for an idea of what will work.
drift240_2009
02-27-2011, 10:34 AM
boost, ya still got to make the connectors etc. I dont have any clamps etc to make that shit. I rather have them premade or have a shop just make the cables for me so i can do the relocation myself.
krps13_180sx
02-27-2011, 02:26 PM
Yeah...I'd still buy a battery box for your setup..batteries produces hydrogen gas think about it...its not oxygen...especially in your car! I dont know what group your optima redtop battery is but most of them have a port for venting the gas to atmosphere so check out the FAQ on optimabatteries.com and id reccomend getting a box.
drift240_2009
02-27-2011, 09:52 PM
well, If i get a box do i really need to cover it or can i just leave it off?
drift240_2009
02-27-2011, 09:56 PM
But why are we still thinking this thread is still for me? Its for my friend. Im just asking because he's the poorman with the car and no computer. My setups already in the car between the rear towers. Its in a box but no cover since im too lazy to put it on.
krps13_180sx
02-28-2011, 05:51 PM
For you, your buddy, or whoever! I'm just saying, batteries produces hydrogen gasses, and you also said so yourself YOU also have a battery box, it comes with a lid and YOUR too lazy to cover it up????
Anyways.. My point is, it's a relocation, batteries are put in the engine bay for a reason, and if they are not... Such as some cadillacs and stuff, it's underneath the rear passenger seat...with the cushion as a "lid" and a hose that comes of the battery to vent to atmosphere.. Not in the car
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