View Full Version : striped bolt
SR240DET
09-21-2003, 05:33 AM
does any body have any advice on removing a striped bolt on my rear sub frame.. im currently doing a vlsd swap and i striped the bolt that connects the vlsd to the rear subframe... thanks..
FRpilot
09-21-2003, 08:36 AM
there is a way to take out stripped bolts.. i think you have to drill a little hole in it and stick a special drill bit in there or you can make a dashed slit and try to take it out with a flat head. there is actually a way, google it. worst comes to worst, you take it to a machine shop.
andrave
09-21-2003, 11:31 AM
ok you got a few options.
first off try soaking it in pb blaster over night and then using a stripped bolt remover (special shaped hex head that digs into the flats on the bolt).
If that doesn't work, you are going to have to drill a hole into the bolt, and use a reverse thread to remove it. Another option is to helacoil it. go to a hardware store and tell them what happened and they can probably give you the correct size hela coil.
Finally if its really f'in stuck take it to a machine shop and drill it out, but if it is a threaded hole they will have to re thread it for a larger bolt.
hookedup240
09-21-2003, 01:09 PM
try some vise grips, they always work for me. As long as you can fit them.
gfisch
09-21-2003, 09:38 PM
Yeah, Vise grips are good usually, worth a shot.
If not, try slotting it w/ a Dremel tool if you've got one try to use a big flathead screwdriver.
Lots of WD40 to soak it in too to loosen it up if its stuck
andrave
09-21-2003, 09:43 PM
pb blaster works a lot better than WD 40.
a slot prolly isn't gonna let you get any leverage on it.
240Degrees
09-22-2003, 10:45 PM
my car is an east coast car, so would soaking pb blaster over those bolts that SR240DET stripped actually help and get into the threads?
crioten
09-22-2003, 10:50 PM
go to sears
pick up "bolt-out"
it works wonders...and they have like every size almost. you attach it to a wrench or socket(they are usually 1 inch-ish heads) and go to town on it
still hasnt let me down
andrave
09-22-2003, 10:51 PM
what does the coast your car is on make?
yes it makes a difference.
240Degrees
09-22-2003, 11:02 PM
car coast what? east coast car just means i have rust everywhere because of road salt. most suspension bolts and nuts are pretty good still.
240Degrees
09-23-2003, 10:19 PM
did you ever get your problem solved? how does it compare to mine?(pic included). This is after I soaked them in pb blaster. Does it look like these bolts are gonna come off nice and easy with a few squirts of pb blaster?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid81/p747041a7c6181b1e2f001caf1ff00289/fb010f9f.jpg
Negreac
09-25-2003, 08:59 AM
Try heating it up when you get ready to take it out. It worked for my motor mount bolts, they came out like cake. Just use a mapp-gas/propane torch.
andrave
09-25-2003, 03:04 PM
oh yeah don't catch anything on fire or do that near the gas tank.
Anyway if you use one of those sockets that grips the flats and not the rounds you will have no prob getting it off, I'm sure.
For the guy with the rusted bolts, use a 1/2" and break them loose, thats all it takes. If the nuts are in good shape and you are using 6 pnt sockets (12 points are great for under hood work on loose points but they are weak and they suck for stuck bolts, thats how everyone rounds their bolts off to start with, either that or using standard sockets on metric bolts) they should come off no problem.
There is no substitute for the right tool for the job. One of the best investments you can buy is a good 3/8" craftsman socket set and long (at least 18") 1/2" ratchet. Sockets that big are expensive so I just buy the 1/2" sockets that I need to finish a project as I go. Oh yeah, my bro gets me mad discounts at sears since he works there, so that makes craftsman my brand of choice.
gfisch
09-25-2003, 07:18 PM
Yeah, I second that. A good socket set is probably the best investmet you can meke in your car.
I got the Craftsman Mechanics set from sears and a complete wrench set and it always proves to be very useful.
Also, for stuck bolts, a sawzall always works.:)
Definately made it a lot easier(and more fun) stripping my last 240.
jy116
05-30-2004, 10:16 PM
Same prob for me! The head cracked off, got the bolt out, but the hole's thread is kinda stripped now. The new bolt doesnt stay in all the way...
Any tips on rethreading the subframe hole? OR I can try to find a whole new subframe... lotta work thnx to whoever overtorqued the bolt. Boo air tools in the hands of hasty mechanics. Anyone drive with it like this? It should be OK to drive to the machine shop at least right?
PS, seeing thats its been over a YEAR now... how did you solve this problem?
jy116
06-09-2004, 11:19 PM
here's a picture of my misfortune:
http://img46.photobucket.com/albums/v142/jy116/DSC00876.jpg
closer... closer...
http://img46.photobucket.com/albums/v142/jy116/DSC00877.jpg
jy116
06-09-2004, 11:25 PM
u can fit about 1cm in between... just looks not as bad cuz the 1 washer is there. BUT its loose none the less.
I hear noises in back when driving, but not sure what it is... my frend didnt replace the VLSD fluid, but its supposedly only got 30/40km. I cant get to the top/side drain plug with the diff on dangit! >: ( Might also be this missing bracket? Or is the car supposed to be like this?:
http://img46.photobucket.com/albums/v142/jy116/DSC00874.jpg
Projekt_Sil80
06-09-2004, 11:35 PM
Try getting that special drill for broken studs or try notching it with a punch and screw it out, make sure you spray some type of lubricant (i.e. WD40, Rust Penatrator, etc.) helps it a lot
jy116
06-10-2004, 07:53 PM
o, lemme clarify. The broken bolt came out. Then the hole was messed up, but my frend tried to put a new bolt in anyways. He got it in pretty good, but not all the way. Just recently brought it to a machine shop and they tried to loosen the [new] bolt and its just spinned in place... they said theres a nut welded inside the subframe supposed to hold it, but gues mine got cracked loose. SO, now its loose and i cant get the bolt off...
My dad might be able to fab sumthing to fill the space and make the bolt tighter... thats all i can think of besides new subframe.
Tangent: S14/s15 subframe fit up to a s13? Significant benefits [besides non strippped hole]? :P
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