240Dave
09-16-2003, 11:57 PM
People do a lot of crazy things to make their cars go faster, but the most popular setups are, without a doubt, the turbo ka and the (in)famous sr swap. But why aren’t other swaps more popular than they currently are? Is it the price that scares people away or just the fact that it's something new and requires (gasp) custom work? Maybe people just don’t know about the options.
You might say that with 400+ hp ka+t’s with equal torque and high strung sr20’s running 400hp on their stock bottom end, why do anything else?
Well, for those who want more power than a 4cyl can reasonably provide or simply just want a unique swap or different feel, let’s consider some other swap options.
-------------------------------------------------------
I've been doing some research on a few different swap options and thought I would post what I was able to find. Maybe stir up some good discussion...
302 5.0L V8
engine/tranny/ecu: $800
Driveshaft: $500
Exhaust: $500
Engine and transmission mounts: $1000 (A guess, paid labor)
-------------
225hp/300tq
-------------
Total: $3300
Good:
*Gobs of torque
*Dirt cheap parts both replacement and aftermarket
*Engine has great proven potential both N/A and FI
*V layout and pushrod cam style allows for low CG helping weight distribution
*After some aluminum aftermarket parts engine weighs the same as stock ka (still a ~25lb weight gain from transmission though, but transmissions are low and in the middle of the car so effects are minimal)
*Stock differential can be used to about 400tq give or take
Bad:
*More custom work than other swaps because kits are not yet available
*Stock (iron heads and accessories) adds a total of ~105lbs to the car (~25 of which is the extra transmission weight though). Then a little more weight on top of that given the larger exhaust system (2 headers, 2 exhaust pipes)
350 Ls1 v8
Engine/tranny/ecu: $???
-------------
???hp/???tq
-------------
Total: $???
Good:
*FAST, damn they are fast
*All the same goodness of the 302 as far as parts but much faster
*A great choice for drag racing
Bad:
*More expensive and heavier than the 302
*Comes all aluminum so there’s not really any place you can drop weight from like you can with the 302
*I didn’t do a whole lot of research on this one because of its weight I dismissed it rather quickly
RB20det 2L I6
Full clip: $2250 + s&h
Exhaust: $500
Engine and transmission mount kit including driveshaft: $1150
-------------
220hp/195tq
-------------
Total: $3900
Good:
*Easy install thanks to mounting kits including a pre-made driveshaft
*Growing aftermarket support in the USA
Bad:
*Not very much power stock compared to other swaps
* Is a long engine, putting even more weight in front of the shock towers which is bad for weight distribution
*Overall engine weight is around 60lbs more than a non-turbo ka (roughly 35lbs more than a turbo ka though…not a very significant difference really but positioning is the main problem)
rb25det 2.5L I6
Full clip: $3250 + s&h
Exhaust: $500
Driveshaft: $500
Engine and transmission mounts: $600
-------------
250hp/220tq
-------------
Total: $4850
Good:
*Easy install thanks to mounting kits including a pre-made driveshaft
*Great power and torque stock with plenty of potential
*Growing aftermarket support in the USA
Bad:
*A little expensive, but not too bad
* It is a long engine, putting even more weight in front of the shock towers which is bad for weight distribution
*Overall engine weight is around 60lbs more than a non-turbo ka (roughly 35lbs more than a turbo ka though…not a very significant difference really but positioning is the main problem)
-------------------------------------------------------
Here are some quick prices on sr’s and ka+t. The ka turbo is a hard one since there are so many options so I used a basic turbo kit to compare.
Redtop sr20det 2.0L I4
Complete engine: $2500 + s&h
Exhaust: $500
-------------
205hp/205tq
-------------
Total: $3000
Good:
*Very easy swap
*Great potential
*Large and rapidly growing aftermarket support
Bad:
*Not very much HP stock for the money
S14 sr20det 2.0L I4
Complete engine: $3600 + s&h
Exhaust: $500
-------------
220hp/205tq
-------------
Total: $4100
Good:
*Easy swap
*Not too expensive for the power you get
*Great aftermarket support and growing
*Often less mileage than redtop
Bad:
*Variable valve timing is a common complaint when going for big power
S15 sr20det 2.0L I4
Complete engine: $5500 + s&h
Exhaust: $500
-------------
250hp/???tq
-------------
Total: $6000
Good:
*Very fast stock
*Usually have very few miles
Bad:
*Very expensive for what you get
*Variable valve timing is a common complaint when going for big power
KA24de+t 2.4L I4
Engine: $0.00
Turbo kit: $3000
Exhaust: $500
-------------
~300hp/~300tq
-------------
Total: $3500
Good:
*Easy to do, you don’t even have to remove the engine
*Good torque and horsepower for the money (can be done cheaper too)
Bad:
*I can’t think of anything bad to say other than a lot of people blow them up…I don’t have enough data to really comment on any reliability issues that may exist though.
-------------------------------------------------------
I looked into the 2jz but the engine alone was nearly $5000 so I decided to stop there, feel free to continue research on that your self. If you do, please add anything you find to the thread. Really one monster of an engine….
Not sure about the 1jz, I haven’t done any research.
I realize that in the real world, these prices WILL be higher, but I assumed no problems and nothing extra to make a fair comparison.
I didn’t figure shipping into any prices, it just added a level of complexity that I didn’t care to deal with. The v8 is the only one you can just pick up at a junkyard, so assume a couple hundred or so for shipping on the rest unless you’re near a shop that sells whatever engine you are looking to get. You should really see your engine before you buy anyway, so maybe no shipping on anything. That’s why I left it out of the numbers above.
I added an upgraded exhaust to every swap for a more even comparison. Some swaps require a custom exhaust while others (like the sr and ka for example) do not.
No swap listed requires any modification to the car itself that I’m aware of, other than mounts.
Whenever you swap a larger engine into your car or add a big turbo and innercooler, you change the weight distribution and upset the cars handling. Some swaps will change the weight distribution more than others, the I6’s especially since they are the longest and add most of their weight in front of the shock towers. The Ls1 adds the most weight of any swap. Overall weight, height and length are all factors in how it will affect your cars feel and performance.
However large or small the handling difference may be, the easiest way to shift the weight a bit is to relocate your battery to the back. Since a car battery weighs 25-40lbs it’s the batteries weight less in the front and the batteries weight more in the rear for a total 50-80lb difference. If you want to balance the car out even more, a carbon fiber hood is another option, though not as cheap as battery relocation.
Anything left can be tuned out with suspension work.
Chassis strengthening should always be taken into consideration when building a high hp/tq car…especially with one of the v8 options given their torque.
Please keep safety in mind, upgrading brakes and wheels/tires to handle your new power. You may even want to consider a simple 4pt roll bar. Upgrading the driver with some driving schools is always a great idea too.
Sources:
http://www.google.com
http://240skyline.nissanpower.com/
http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/
http://www.hybridz.org/
http://forums.stangnet.com/index.php
http://www.freshalloy.com
http://www.zilvia.net
http://www.srswap.com
http://www.unstable-hybrids.com
http://www.limecreekmotorsports.com/project240SS.htm
*not a complete list*
-------------------------------------------------------
Well, after all that I’ve decided on the 302 v8. The goal is to make around 400rwhp N/A while maintaining stock or better handling. Eventually I’d like to go even higher, adding individual throttle bodies like this setup.
http://totalcontrolproducts.com/lino/images/engine-i2.jpg
But that is a long way off. For now I’m just going to do a basic rebuild with a couple power adders here and there and get it in around 275hp or so.
There really is no BEST setup though. I didn’t pick the 302 because I thought it was the best swap available, but rather because I felt it was the best for me and what I want my car to be.
Have fun, and please chime in with any questions, opinions, additional data or (god forbid) corrections, hehe :)
You might say that with 400+ hp ka+t’s with equal torque and high strung sr20’s running 400hp on their stock bottom end, why do anything else?
Well, for those who want more power than a 4cyl can reasonably provide or simply just want a unique swap or different feel, let’s consider some other swap options.
-------------------------------------------------------
I've been doing some research on a few different swap options and thought I would post what I was able to find. Maybe stir up some good discussion...
302 5.0L V8
engine/tranny/ecu: $800
Driveshaft: $500
Exhaust: $500
Engine and transmission mounts: $1000 (A guess, paid labor)
-------------
225hp/300tq
-------------
Total: $3300
Good:
*Gobs of torque
*Dirt cheap parts both replacement and aftermarket
*Engine has great proven potential both N/A and FI
*V layout and pushrod cam style allows for low CG helping weight distribution
*After some aluminum aftermarket parts engine weighs the same as stock ka (still a ~25lb weight gain from transmission though, but transmissions are low and in the middle of the car so effects are minimal)
*Stock differential can be used to about 400tq give or take
Bad:
*More custom work than other swaps because kits are not yet available
*Stock (iron heads and accessories) adds a total of ~105lbs to the car (~25 of which is the extra transmission weight though). Then a little more weight on top of that given the larger exhaust system (2 headers, 2 exhaust pipes)
350 Ls1 v8
Engine/tranny/ecu: $???
-------------
???hp/???tq
-------------
Total: $???
Good:
*FAST, damn they are fast
*All the same goodness of the 302 as far as parts but much faster
*A great choice for drag racing
Bad:
*More expensive and heavier than the 302
*Comes all aluminum so there’s not really any place you can drop weight from like you can with the 302
*I didn’t do a whole lot of research on this one because of its weight I dismissed it rather quickly
RB20det 2L I6
Full clip: $2250 + s&h
Exhaust: $500
Engine and transmission mount kit including driveshaft: $1150
-------------
220hp/195tq
-------------
Total: $3900
Good:
*Easy install thanks to mounting kits including a pre-made driveshaft
*Growing aftermarket support in the USA
Bad:
*Not very much power stock compared to other swaps
* Is a long engine, putting even more weight in front of the shock towers which is bad for weight distribution
*Overall engine weight is around 60lbs more than a non-turbo ka (roughly 35lbs more than a turbo ka though…not a very significant difference really but positioning is the main problem)
rb25det 2.5L I6
Full clip: $3250 + s&h
Exhaust: $500
Driveshaft: $500
Engine and transmission mounts: $600
-------------
250hp/220tq
-------------
Total: $4850
Good:
*Easy install thanks to mounting kits including a pre-made driveshaft
*Great power and torque stock with plenty of potential
*Growing aftermarket support in the USA
Bad:
*A little expensive, but not too bad
* It is a long engine, putting even more weight in front of the shock towers which is bad for weight distribution
*Overall engine weight is around 60lbs more than a non-turbo ka (roughly 35lbs more than a turbo ka though…not a very significant difference really but positioning is the main problem)
-------------------------------------------------------
Here are some quick prices on sr’s and ka+t. The ka turbo is a hard one since there are so many options so I used a basic turbo kit to compare.
Redtop sr20det 2.0L I4
Complete engine: $2500 + s&h
Exhaust: $500
-------------
205hp/205tq
-------------
Total: $3000
Good:
*Very easy swap
*Great potential
*Large and rapidly growing aftermarket support
Bad:
*Not very much HP stock for the money
S14 sr20det 2.0L I4
Complete engine: $3600 + s&h
Exhaust: $500
-------------
220hp/205tq
-------------
Total: $4100
Good:
*Easy swap
*Not too expensive for the power you get
*Great aftermarket support and growing
*Often less mileage than redtop
Bad:
*Variable valve timing is a common complaint when going for big power
S15 sr20det 2.0L I4
Complete engine: $5500 + s&h
Exhaust: $500
-------------
250hp/???tq
-------------
Total: $6000
Good:
*Very fast stock
*Usually have very few miles
Bad:
*Very expensive for what you get
*Variable valve timing is a common complaint when going for big power
KA24de+t 2.4L I4
Engine: $0.00
Turbo kit: $3000
Exhaust: $500
-------------
~300hp/~300tq
-------------
Total: $3500
Good:
*Easy to do, you don’t even have to remove the engine
*Good torque and horsepower for the money (can be done cheaper too)
Bad:
*I can’t think of anything bad to say other than a lot of people blow them up…I don’t have enough data to really comment on any reliability issues that may exist though.
-------------------------------------------------------
I looked into the 2jz but the engine alone was nearly $5000 so I decided to stop there, feel free to continue research on that your self. If you do, please add anything you find to the thread. Really one monster of an engine….
Not sure about the 1jz, I haven’t done any research.
I realize that in the real world, these prices WILL be higher, but I assumed no problems and nothing extra to make a fair comparison.
I didn’t figure shipping into any prices, it just added a level of complexity that I didn’t care to deal with. The v8 is the only one you can just pick up at a junkyard, so assume a couple hundred or so for shipping on the rest unless you’re near a shop that sells whatever engine you are looking to get. You should really see your engine before you buy anyway, so maybe no shipping on anything. That’s why I left it out of the numbers above.
I added an upgraded exhaust to every swap for a more even comparison. Some swaps require a custom exhaust while others (like the sr and ka for example) do not.
No swap listed requires any modification to the car itself that I’m aware of, other than mounts.
Whenever you swap a larger engine into your car or add a big turbo and innercooler, you change the weight distribution and upset the cars handling. Some swaps will change the weight distribution more than others, the I6’s especially since they are the longest and add most of their weight in front of the shock towers. The Ls1 adds the most weight of any swap. Overall weight, height and length are all factors in how it will affect your cars feel and performance.
However large or small the handling difference may be, the easiest way to shift the weight a bit is to relocate your battery to the back. Since a car battery weighs 25-40lbs it’s the batteries weight less in the front and the batteries weight more in the rear for a total 50-80lb difference. If you want to balance the car out even more, a carbon fiber hood is another option, though not as cheap as battery relocation.
Anything left can be tuned out with suspension work.
Chassis strengthening should always be taken into consideration when building a high hp/tq car…especially with one of the v8 options given their torque.
Please keep safety in mind, upgrading brakes and wheels/tires to handle your new power. You may even want to consider a simple 4pt roll bar. Upgrading the driver with some driving schools is always a great idea too.
Sources:
http://www.google.com
http://240skyline.nissanpower.com/
http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/
http://www.hybridz.org/
http://forums.stangnet.com/index.php
http://www.freshalloy.com
http://www.zilvia.net
http://www.srswap.com
http://www.unstable-hybrids.com
http://www.limecreekmotorsports.com/project240SS.htm
*not a complete list*
-------------------------------------------------------
Well, after all that I’ve decided on the 302 v8. The goal is to make around 400rwhp N/A while maintaining stock or better handling. Eventually I’d like to go even higher, adding individual throttle bodies like this setup.
http://totalcontrolproducts.com/lino/images/engine-i2.jpg
But that is a long way off. For now I’m just going to do a basic rebuild with a couple power adders here and there and get it in around 275hp or so.
There really is no BEST setup though. I didn’t pick the 302 because I thought it was the best swap available, but rather because I felt it was the best for me and what I want my car to be.
Have fun, and please chime in with any questions, opinions, additional data or (god forbid) corrections, hehe :)