S14: Subframe Removal Help, Sleeve Seized

[aled]

Removing the rear subframe on my S14 to add Subframe Risers.

However, upon removal 3 out of the 4 OEM metal sleeves that reside inside the OEM bushing seized to the subframe studs.

I conducted a search for help/tips removing the subframe. However, no similar problems were discovered.

Pictures:
http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq331/spartanhockey409/photo4-3.jpg
Bushing center Sleeve seized to the Subframe stud.

My Question: How can I remove this seized metal sleeve without damaging the stud?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Alex

[Steve Lloyd]

thread some nuts on there to protect the threads and cut a lit in the sleeve with a grinder and then pry it off, wire wheel the stud and put some anti-seize on it before you reinstall your subframe.......

[lexlaxlux]

propane torch the sleeve while cautiously using a pry bar to move it down. do this is phases. 10 seconds heat and pry and 2-3 seconds cool repeat

[aled]

propane torch the sleeve while cautiously using a pry bar to move it down. do this is phases. 10 seconds heat and pry and 2-3 seconds cool repeat
Heat seems to be a viable option.
What about the proximity of the brake hard line/fuel tank?

[blueshark123]

impact hammer fixed it for me

[aled]

impact hammer fixed it for me
Seems like a great idea.
What type of blade/chisel did you use?

I assume you applied the impact at the top of the sleeve where it meets the unibody?

[blueshark123]

i actually hit on the side at a angle to spin it free fire also helps i also just used a flat head tip chisel

[s14canyoncity]

are those studs replaceable?

why not take a dremel with a cutting blade, cut a vertical slit, try to split it open and wiggle it out.

vice grip and a hammer <---Ghetto mechanic :smash:
lock the vice on the sleeve and tape the handle together (duct tape) and hammer the vice. force should make the sleeve twist/spin

or just use the same sleeve mount all the bushings on the sub frame. clean the sleeve, grease it up, it should slide through.

[az_240]

^Heat + vice grip was my first thought. With enough heat the rust will break apart. I've had a similar issue with a big rusted bolt on another car. Propane torch was not enough.... had to get out the welder and the rust broke free with some force.

Cutting through the sleeves would be tough and would probably take a while.

I remember reading somewhere the studs are non replaceable.... but who knows you may be able to replace through the top some how if it came down to it.

[blueshark123]

Studs are replaceable but its a bitch u need to cut a hole from the top rip stud out and weld in a new one..........

[aled]

why not take a dremel with a cutting blade, cut a vertical slit, try to split it open and wiggle it out.

or just use the same sleeve mount all the bushings on the sub frame. clean the sleeve, grease it up, it should slide through.
Seems to be my best option.

Using the same sleeve mount is not an option. I am going to be using the the Powered by Max Subframe Riser.

I appreciate all the responses and ideas. I will make sure to document exactly how I alleviate this issue.

Thank you.

[aled]

This is the process I used to solve this problem and am posting my remedy to help individuals with similar issues in the future.

Amid a long delay because of being away at school, I've had the opportunity to alleviate this issue.

Tools Used:
- Air Chisel/Hammer
- Chisel
- 3lb. Hammer
- Vise Grips
- Jack Handle for leverage
- WD40

This was a very lengthy process, however with some persistence the sleeves un-seized.

1. Let the sleeves soak in WD40 at the places of contact.
2. Used the Air Chisel to begin prying at the contact spot at the top sleeve where it contacted the frame.
3. Used the Air Chisel to cut an inch-long slit in the sleeve.
4. Connected the vise-grips and used the jack handle until the sleeve broke free and turned.

Steps 3/4 took a while with cutting then trying to spin the sleeve with the vise grips.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180027_1567124420130_1296000280_31201306_4404941_n .jpg
The cut and removed sleeve.

Hope this helps anyone who encounters this problem in the future. Thank you for all the responses/ideas earlier in the thread.

Thanks to Andy (dsc4130) for all the assistance.
Alex.

[Bluejayde]

Double Post

[Bluejayde]

Good work, thanks for posting your solution. Now come to COMO and do mine!

Question- Do you think it would be possible to do this job without air tools? I'm mostly concerned with getting the main bolts off, and being able to install the PBM risers...

[aled]

Good work, thanks for posting your solution. Now come to COMO and do mine!

Question- Do you think it would be possible to do this job without air tools? I'm mostly concerned with getting the main bolts off, and being able to install the PBM risers...
I removed the entire subframe and reinstalled the new one without any air tools. Only had to use the air chisel to remove that seized sleeve. So, if your subframe comes out clean, you'll be just fine without air tools.

Breaker Bar. Deep 17mm.

If you read the Powered by Max thread for OEM bushing removal, you'll be golden.