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View Full Version : looking at my first s13 240sx, have questions


RedSiBaron
12-24-2010, 01:20 PM
alright, heres the deal, i am looking into my first 240sx, and i need some info so i know what to look for or adjust when i go look at the car on probably sunday or monday. ive mostly worked on hondas, so this is my primary reference point.

it is a 1990 240sx se hatch. originally from NC, in good rust free condition, the frame isnt rusting. so right there im pretty happy with it. now, the guy who is selling it said he blew a head gasket a year or two ago and replaced the head gasket and replaced the head with a rebuilt one. alright, pretty good. he also put on a refurbished starter and alternator. again, still on board. he said it was bumped in the rear end, but all it did was mess up the bumper but everything still fits straight. again doesnt sound serious, not worried. he replaced and upgraded the clutch, and put in the megan transmission mount but did not install the engine mounts that came with the mount kit. once again, im down with that. it comes with brand new <500mile all season tires, so thats great.

he says it runs real smooth, but heres my main issues with the vehicle.

-first, and least, he said the radiator fan is rusty. and says something like it doesnt run or something, since im not familiar with the 240 other than the few times ive looked in engine bay of one, im not sure if he means the shrouded fan on the a/c condenser or what. he says the car doesnt run hot, so im not too concerned. if anyone has any thoughts on this, id appreciate it, but im not worried about fixing this if there was a problem there.

-second, he says though the car runs well, it idles really really low. like 300rpms he says, and i know the ka24e should idle around 750. he said he didnt time the car after putting the head on. now in my experience with hondas that wouldnt effect idle, and instead id have to look at the idle control valve or the adjustable idle screw on the TB...again, i am not familiar with the s13 or ka24e to know where to start looking, so id love to know what to look at or what to try adjusting when looking at the car if there is a quick fix or adjustment. i would even bring my timing light and time the car on the spot if need be. do you just loosen and turn the distributor to adjust timing like on a honda?

-third he said the car has a lot of road noise, it has full interior and he says he didnt find anything wrong with it other than it could use new shocks cuz they are worn. my friend who is big into 240s said they are notorious for being noisy. is this true? should i not be worried?

-finally, and most concerning to me, he said after he replaced the clutch, its hard to get the car into first gear, but shifting otherwise is smooth. i asked if it goes in at idle, and he said yes. so this makes me most nervous. i just did a clutch and dropped the transmission on my 02 civic si and i dont feel like dropping another transmission so soon. SO my question would be, what could be the possible problems keeping the transmission from shifting to 1st if all he did was change out the clutch? is there an adjustment that may need to be made at the pedal or the shift fork? could he have damaged the shifter assembly putting the transmission back in? again i dont know what to think on this problem.



thats all i am really concerned about right now...thanks for putting up with the long questions. i will continue to search the forum for my answers to these questions, sorry if these are common issues, im just completely new to the car and trying to absorb as much info about it before i take a look at this car.

jdm213
12-24-2010, 01:28 PM
1st check the fork and all tranny internals maybe he didnt add tranny oil ??? and timing does aaffect idle maybe oil pressure is low

RedSiBaron
12-24-2010, 01:39 PM
so essentially check to make sure everything is installed correctly at the fork? and maybe it just needs a fluid change in the gearbox...got it...i mean hell who knows maybe the guy drained the tranny and didnt fill it back to capacity.

ok so when i get there ill do a timing job on it, and see if that fixes the idle...now is there anything on the stock gauge cluster (idiot light or gauge) thatll give me an idication of low oil pressure?

thanks a lot for the reply!

Nick_04K
12-24-2010, 05:58 PM
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-first, and least, he said the radiator fan is rusty. and says something like it doesnt run or something, im not sure if he means the shrouded fan on the a/c condenser or what. he says the car doesnt run hot, so im not too concerned.


Most likely the Radiator fan as the AC fan is completely plastic. It should be fine even rusty...If not, fans are cheap. You could even upgrade to e-fans for like 60 bucks.

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-second, he says though the car runs well, it idles really really low. like 300rpms he says, and i know the ka24e should idle around 750. he said he didnt time the car after putting the head on. now in my experience with hondas that wouldnt effect idle.

Pretty sure having off timing will effect the idle. If not, check IACV and idle screw on TB.

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-third he said the car has a lot of road noise, it has full interior and he says he didnt find anything wrong with it other than it could use new shocks cuz they are worn. my friend who is big into 240s said they are notorious for being noisy. is this true? should i not be worried?

s13's always have road noise. S13's more than s14's..and Hatches more than coupes. Not a big issue...A little sound deadener and making sure your inner fenders and hatch panels are on helps.

RedSiBaron
12-24-2010, 06:11 PM
Cool thanks a lot man...I was planning on going to an e fan setup if the stock setup isn't working, it sounds like the timing will be easy to deal with to fix the idle, so that's good, and it sounds like the noise is normal, which is good...

Now im hoping with a clutch clave cylinder bleed and or tranny mtf change it'll fix the sticky 1st gear

RedSiBaron
12-26-2010, 05:33 PM
picking car up wed, it looks pretty straight...taking all my tools and hopefully itll get back home from cleveland smoothly and safely

chiboy002
12-26-2010, 05:54 PM
regarding 1st gear issues

ka24(d)e trannies are notorious for having the syncro's going out of alignment. This means that the syncro, which usually happens on 1st or reverse, isn't aligned properly with how it should for easy shifting and there-fore it sometimes feels like its locked or hitting something.

Quick fix - shift into another gear and then back (shift into 2nd and then back to 1st without letting off clutch, or reverse to 1st if stopped/vise versa)

Long term fix - have the tranny taken apart and syncro's aligned

RedSiBaron
12-26-2010, 06:03 PM
regarding 1st gear issues

ka24(d)e trannies are notorious for having the syncro's going out of alignment. This means that the syncro, which usually happens on 1st or reverse, isn't aligned properly with how it should for easy shifting and there-fore it sometimes feels like its locked or hitting something.

Quick fix - shift into another gear and then back (shift into 2nd and then back to 1st without letting off clutch, or reverse to 1st if stopped/vise versa)

Long term fix - have the tranny taken apart and syncro's aligned

dude thank you so much for the good tech info...that makes me feel a lot better!

on my old mid 80s hondas the reverse has that same issue, so you have to shift it to align it...that atleast gives me a way to drive the car if its giving me trouble, wont go into first, shift it to 2nd or 3rd, then go to 1st...or i just wont use the clutch and just rev match it into 1st, no biggie

dropping the tranny will be no problem if i need to crack open the gearbox and re-align it come spring...i can do that easy

RedSiBaron
12-30-2010, 12:22 PM
hey guys! got the car home after 4 hr drive home from cleveland yesterday. absolutely love the car even stock! the suspension is very nice geometry wise and the car is very solid even with all its vibrations! ha

had zero problems on the way down, though the timing is way off, and the tensioner bolt on the alternator is busted so those will be my first fixes, need to remove the tensioner piece and extract the old bolt and go buy another long bolt to use...also the car came with megan engine and trans mount...trans mount is already in, but the engine mounts are not. I have to say, "GOD DAMN" the mounts are blown to shit, engine rocks under engine braking at higher speeds, so thank god ive got mounts available to go in...also the road noise in the rear end is pretty loud, but the car has zero shakes or shudders, and just minor "holy shit this car is old" vibrations. Car also has roughly 162k on it, very little rust underneath, in the fender wells, and in the engine bay is in very good shape. body is in primer, some minor surface rust poking through, but there isnt a single dent on the car, though i wouldnt be surprised if whoever primered it also did some dent repair, but they did a good job.

NOW onto my one major issue that i see at this point is with the cooling system. car didnt get hot the entire time i drove the car, and no issues when i stopped the car to get gas. When i got home though, i turned the car off with temp good, and a minute or two later there was steam coming out the right side of hte hood with a spot on the hood gathering condensation (outside air cold, hot under the hood...beercan). Open it up and the coolent reservoir is hissing, steaming and sounds like boiling water. So my reaction was "what the fuck is this shit"

It seems the clutch on the fan from the water pump seems to work, but i dont know if it works after it gets driving conditions hot (i read about converting to an e fan, but havnt found out more than that people do it). the electric fan on the front of the a/c condenser doesnt run so i need to debug that. Also this car is from North Carolina, and I am pretty sure one of the first 2 owners (the ones who owned it in NC) ran water in it, because there is some rust in the cooling system, so ill need to flush the shit out of it. It definitely needs the thermostat replaced and the radiator cap, and the coolent reservoir tank has a damn hole in it and needs replaced. from there i need to figure out where the coolent goes in it, cuz i had to put a bit of it in. either the previous owner didnt know to run the car and get the thermostat to open when filling it up, or its leaking, but it doesnt look like its leaking underneath. this makes me think POSSIBLY since the headgasket isnt blown, there may be micro cracks somewhere in the block and i could be ending up with small amounts of coolent in the cylinders thats getting burnt off. I really dont think this is the case, plus i dont know if these blocks are prone to cracking when overheating, but right now im not ruling anything out.



PICS COMING SOON, JUST MAKING A TODO/TOBUY LIST FOR THE CAR RIGHT NOW