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roadster6909
12-21-2010, 12:37 PM
With my transmission bolts unscrewed, which leave it hanging around a half foot lower, this is the offset of the two, around half inch to an inch.
I can't seem to unscrew the 4 bolts from the differential/ drive shaft..
What do i have to do to get this dang drive shaft in?
I swapped the sr20 back in last night, and i came to this problem. :tinhat:
http://i56.tinypic.com/vdpytk.jpg
http://i54.tinypic.com/1zbauyd.jpg
http://i53.tinypic.com/x1nn05.jpg

nismoman
12-21-2010, 12:46 PM
You gotta get those diff bolts loose. That's the right way to do it.

roadster6909
12-21-2010, 12:55 PM
They are both 14 mm keys. You cant fit socket keys on them so i used the wrench 14mm's and it slips. I don't want to strip the bolt, so i'm stuck thinking about what to use :l
What would you suggest? I have the clamp ons with rigid teeth on the side closer to tranny and that seems to work fine but i'm afraid if i do the same to the other side it'll strip and i'm stuck??

I'm so close to finishing though, i'm happy to have the sr back in :)

Please reply if you can!

obsolete
12-21-2010, 01:45 PM
can't tell from pics, but did you unbolt the two bolts holding up the driveshaft? Then you could slide it in on a slight angle and then bolt the two bolts back and then the tranny mount.

WIKID S4TEEN
12-21-2010, 01:49 PM
i used an open wrench with 1.5" dia tube as a breaker bar.

roadster6909
12-21-2010, 01:54 PM
Which two bolts do you speak of?
http://i54.tinypic.com/2rfqarm.jpg

upsdude
12-21-2010, 02:51 PM
U should have done the diff bolts first tat way you dont have the tranny all loose.

roadster6909
12-21-2010, 05:35 PM
After hours of adrenaline rush trying to do this, i've accomplished. This is how it looks like, is this how it should sit? I have a bag that says drive shaft bolts, 3 of them.. bolts with nuts, but idk where they go?
http://i55.tinypic.com/2j2dkx3.jpg
Do these brackets bolt on to it somewhere? Where do these brackets go?
Their was one big bracket that bolted on under the drive shaft, but i'm left with these still.
http://i55.tinypic.com/2nsaurn.jpg
And what about this on the tranny? http://i53.tinypic.com/6pqaky.jpg
I cant push the fork down any further, so i cant bolt it on >_<

I appreciate your help zilvia, i keep coming one step closer to accomplishing this swap, thanks!

Sileighty_85
12-21-2010, 06:03 PM
Brackets go to top of Radiator

pull up clutch pedal and push in slave rod

roadster6909
12-21-2010, 06:07 PM
Hmmm, I dont have my clutch installed yet, looking for guides on that.
Maybe you have some guides on how to install clutch/ master cylinder so i can do this?
Should the clutch pedal be down when installing? Sorry i've never messed with this stuff.

And does the drive train look like it's in the tranny right? Or..?
Thanks, as always.

Sileighty_85
12-21-2010, 06:18 PM
If you dont have a clutch pedal installed and cant push that slave in then its probably fucked and needs to be replaced.

There are guides around here i sure but if you look under the dash you will see a hole that you need to cut out pretty straight forward.

I was thinking that the cluch pedal was pushed down since you couldnt push in the slave so the fluid couldnt back flow.

drive train looks fine

roadster6909
12-21-2010, 06:33 PM
This sr was in the car, took it out, and rebuilt it.
The clutch is from the sr and everthing is their . The clutch pedal is installed, you can push it in, pull it out etc, i just don't know how to install the lines, etc.
Master cylinder and everthing is their..just need to install lines, etc.. but idk how lol <- noob

BlazNby
12-21-2010, 06:48 PM
this is straight forward for hardlines and doesnt need much explanantion, just look at pictures of engine bays on google and look at the three hardlines that are at the back top part of the firewall. only one can go to the master cylinder(these are pre-bent and can only go to one spot,so i doubt you can mess this part up). What you might need is a stainless steel hardline for your setup to delete that box looking thing that goes to your slave(pedal feels much stiffer with the setup like that). Also use line wrenches if u can if not open end works but be sure to start these threads with your hands and once u feel it tighten up then go with the tool(if you strip these lines either the threads in your master cylinder or the threads in the hardline u must scrap it and buy new ones).

BlazNby
12-21-2010, 06:50 PM
found using google
http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/130_0811_1994_nissan_240sx_hatchback/photo_05.html

obsolete
12-21-2010, 10:01 PM
if you never messed with the hardlines, you don't need to do anything. just push that rod in by the tranny and bolt up the two bolts.

roadster6909
12-21-2010, 10:21 PM
I can move the fork part closer to the two bolts, but not the opposite way.. thats the way it needs to go or else i cant bolt it on..

obsolete
12-22-2010, 05:27 AM
Try opening the cap to the master cylinder and then push in the rod on the slave cylinder by hand. That should give u room to line up the bolt holes

roadster6909
12-22-2010, 12:29 PM
Okay, so i took of the lid and was able to squueze the master cylinder together and onto the rod. However i still have these 3 bolts, that said drive shaft bolts on them.. Where do ya think they go?http://i53.tinypic.com/33z69o2.jpg

240ND
12-22-2010, 07:43 PM
Which two bolts do you speak of?
http://i54.tinypic.com/2rfqarm.jpg

Those hold the 2 peice driveshaft together. on the very right of this picture youll see right behind the part that is held up by that driveshaft bracket there's 4 holes. put the bolts in those holes.

edit: it looks like you have one in there already. just make sure the round top with the one flat side is on the right side with the flat side sitting flush with the u-joint and the nut and lockwash are on the left(using the above picture)