Snapped another throttle body - SR20DET - PICS

[s14unimog]

So here we go again, I broke another throttle body on my SR. The first time this happened, the #4 ate the screw, I lifted my head gasket and kicked a rocker in the head. After I switched to the "new" one I decided to weld the backs of the screws encase this happened again. Well luckily that move saved my motor and I just broke the axle again. Basically all components that are related are as follows.

Freddy Intake Manifold
OEM throttle body assembly
S14 SR cable pulley
240SX throttle cable
custom base bracket.

Here is a picture of that:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Christmaswiththefamily032.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Christmaswiththefamily033.jpg

Here is the carnage from the first episode. Now consider I'm not your typical "throw shit together" enthusiast. I like my car to work well and I plan for that in my build. I can't say it wasn't over pulling the stop the first time, b/c I honestly don't remember, but I will say I assure you that I set it up with good intention and adjusted everything appropriately; I thought.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Throttlebodybreakage001.jpg

Found this in the #4 cylinder with a magnetic wand
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Throttlebodybreakage002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/HeadRepaircont6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/HeadRepaircont3.jpg

On the second throttle body I can assure you that there was ABSOLUTELY no chance I could have over pull the throttle body. I was very meticulous on the second install and was sure i had it adjusted well. Not to mention I also welded the screws to the center axle to be damn sure they couldn't dislodge. Like I said, that luckily saved the motor this time. The break was in the same place as last time and it doesn't look as though the welding had weakened the axle any. Here are a couple shots of that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/weldedthrottlebodyfailure3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/weldedthrottlebodyfailure2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/weldedthrottlebodyfailure1.jpg

I'm not sure what I aim to gain from this thread. Maybe it will be useful in the future to someone or maybe someone on here has dealt with this before and can provide some incite. Currently I'm sourcing another OEM throttle body and plan to weld the screws as before and install as I had it. I'll then set up an indicator and see if I can't measure some amount of deflection. It wouldn't be difficult to weld on a "spine" or some additional material but I just wouldn't have thought it would be necessary. I'm also planning to review the base bracket and see if that isn't part of the culprit.

Any thoughts? Experiences?

For reference, the car is tracked as a drift car and makes just over 400 to the wheels.

[florante rea]

lmk i got a set of s14sr throttle body if needed.

[STEEZxIT]

you can use a G20 TB but you'd have to rearrange the TB cable guide...Thats what i used for mine when the butterfly decide to snap while my wife was stuck on L.A. traffic...lol

Atleast its newer thats all, Could run your $60 at the junkyard.. or FREE.. with this cold weather were having, go to your local yard with a big ass snow jacket.. HAHAHAHHA ;]

[slider2828]

Awww fuck I would be PISSED if that happened to me.... Could it be temperature related like the cold and heat accelerating metal fatigue?

The other time it happened, was it around the same time of year. cause its FREEZING in Georgia ATL.... sheesh

[PoorMans180SX]

Seems like you don't have a stop to your throttle cable/pedal, causing you to put a lot of stress on the throttle shaft when you are smashing that pedal to the floor, haha.

Fab up a stop for the throttle pulley. Problem solved.

[s14unimog]

Seems like you don't have a stop to your throttle cable/pedal, causing you to put a lot of stress on the throttle shaft when you are smashing that pedal to the floor, haha. Fab up a stop for the throttle pulley. Problem solved.

^ Problem not solved... There is one casted as part of the OEM throttle body, you can see it in the picture. What I'm going to check once reinstalled is the stop below the skinny pedal and how it relates to the stop on the throttle body. I am quite sure however that its not the problem. I wonder if its just because of the S14 pulley, since it sits further out on the shaft? Isn't the S14 SR throttle body a little different?

lmk i got a set of s14sr throttle body if needed.

Care to share any pictures for a reference. I might also be interested in it too.

Awww fuck I would be PISSED if that happened to me.... Could it be temperature related like the cold and heat accelerating metal fatigue? The other time it happened, was it around the same time of year. cause its FREEZING in Georgia ATL.... sheesh

Yeah and it happened in the middle of a 4th gear pull on the highway; sorta reminded of those Supra videos you see when the motor grenades. Similar times but I can't put my finger on exactly when it happened. The marking on the valve plate seems to suggest it wasn't just the other day. That axle has got to see the full spectrum of cold-heat regardless of outside temperatures.

[Def]

Make your TB bracket out of something with some give. Use like 0.063" thick aluminum instead of the 1/8-3/16" stuff you're using now. This will give some flex there to reduce stress on the throttle shaft.

[SoSideways]

I believe switching over to the Q45 throttle body has alleviated a lot of high HP guys' problems with this same scenario.

[TheRealSy90]

Sure there is a stop there, but when you hit the stop the cable is still pulling on the pulley and putting stress on the shaft.

[s14unimog]

Make your TB bracket out of something with some give. Use like 0.063" thick aluminum instead of the 1/8-3/16" stuff you're using now. This will give some flex there to reduce stress on the throttle shaft.

I hear what you're saying but think about the stock setup; its pretty rigid. Don't you think its just probably the extended placement of the S14 pulley?

I believe switching over to the Q45 throttle body has alleviated a lot of high HP guys' problems with this same scenario.

Do you have a picture of one. Are there any noticeable differences to the shaft or is it just a larger bore?

Sure there is a stop there, but when you hit the stop the cable is still pulling on the pulley and putting stress on the shaft.

Na, I'm pretty sure it wasn't over pulling the stop but ya know its hard to tell now. I'll have to verify that on the next install. I wonder what the difference is between the skinny pedals' sweep and the length of pull exposed at the end of the pedal. I mean surely there is a difference given its a 240sx cable an SR throttle body, and an S14 Sr pulley.

[Sileighty_85]

Sure there is a stop there, but when you hit the stop the cable is still pulling on the pulley and putting stress on the shaft.


I dont think that would snap the shaft, since what your pulling on has the stopper, (unless its pulling at an angle) Now if his Throttle plate is getting hung up or binding before the Throttle pully hits the stopper then yeah I could see the shaft snapping

[mct3351]

Your throttle pulley is on wrong. Placing the cable out that far is likely putting excessive bending forces in the axle when its resting on the stop.

I'd consider flipping it or making a pedal stop.

[NYS13SLIDER]

ok so i just installed my new intake manifold and put the s14 throttle cable pulley as recommended by enjuku> should i be worried about the same issue?

[Def]

I hear what you're saying but think about the stock setup; its pretty rigid. Don't you think its just probably the extended placement of the S14 pulley?



I imagine that doesn't help the situation.

I have a FReddy manifold with the stock S13 pulley still on there. I just built a bracket out of some bent 1/16" 2024 aluminum angle. It noticeably flexes before the pedal stop hits, but I've never had a problem because it basically acts as a limiter on how much force can ever be applied to the throttle body.

[codyace]

I imagine that doesn't help the situation.

I have a FReddy manifold with the stock S13 pulley still on there. I just built a bracket out of some bent 1/16" 2024 aluminum angle. It noticeably flexes before the pedal stop hits, but I've never had a problem because it basically acts as a limiter on how much force can ever be applied to the throttle body.

By no means am I doubting your reasoning, but I've had mine made out of 1/8" angle iron now forever, and haven't had an issue.


Ultimatly, I don't think there is a true 'reason' to this happening. I'm sure some of the smarter guys here could form up some reason in relation to pull and the force involved and that stuff (above my head!) but it's still a relative mystery.

With that said, I am going with a Tomei TB (got it super cheap) this winter to ward off any potential problem. Maybe I read to far into stuff, maybe(gasp) at times I follow forum superstition, but It's just a sake of mind issue.

[superJoy]

Your throttle pulley is on wrong. Placing the cable out that far is likely putting excessive bending forces in the axle when its resting on the stop.

I'd consider flipping it or making a pedal stop.

WHAT HE SAID.

You have that pulley on backwards dude. I don't have an SR but on all the Nissan engine's I've dealt with, that pulley goes on the other way so the cable is closer to the TB itself. It's sticking out quite a bit farther than it should.

You're prob putting the shaft in bending whenever it hits the stop, and you're moving that lever arm out by installing the pulley wrong, which causes the shaft to fail since it wasn't design for that amount of stress.

I don't think the cable bracket yall talkin bout makes that big of a difference.

[s14unimog]

WHAT HE SAID.
You have that pulley on backwards dude. I don't have an SR but on all the Nissan engine's I've dealt with, that pulley goes on the other way so the cable is closer to the TB itself. It's sticking out quite a bit farther than it should.
You're prob putting the shaft in bending whenever it hits the stop, and you're moving that lever arm out by installing the pulley wrong, which causes the shaft to fail since it wasn't design for that amount of stress.
I don't think the cable bracket yall talkin bout makes that big of a difference.

Are you two both blind...? You can't flip it over. If you do that there isn't a place for the cable to guide. There is only one single way to install it...

[mct3351]

Well then that pulley wont work. If you were to compare the length of the moment arm of the s13 pulley on the s13 throttle body, with the length of the moment arm of an s14 pulley (installed backwards from the way its installed on an s14 throttle body) installed on an s13 throttle body, the way you have it, its about 4 times longer and the bending loads are 4 times more.

Since I'm blind and cant see that this is the only configurstion that will work the easiest thing to do, is make a pedal stop. This will limit the force pulling/bending on the end of the axle once its fully rotated and resting on its stop.

Or you can disregard my advise and do nothing and keep hoping for a different result.

[lok]

"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results."

I am guessing you have already tried moving the mounting point for the throttle cable?

[Couped_up'd]

or you can disregard my advise and do nothing and keep hoping for a different result.


ziiiinnnnggg

[s14unimog]

Well then that pulley wont work. If you were to compare the length of the moment arm of the s13 pulley on the s13 throttle body, with the length of the moment arm of an s14 pulley (installed backwards from the way its installed on an s14 throttle body) installed on an s13 throttle body, the way you have it, its about 4 times longer and the bending loads are 4 times more.

Since I'm blind and cant see that this is the only configurstion that will work the easiest thing to do, is make a pedal stop. This will limit the force pulling/bending on the end of the axle once its fully rotated and resting on its stop.

Or you can disregard my advise and do nothing and keep hoping for a different result.

You haven't looked at an S14 SR in a minute. It is installed just as I have it on my S13 SR throttle body. I don't think the moment arm is actually any different.

http://mestiso.net/photogallery/240/CIMG2348.jpg


"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results." I am guessing you have already tried moving the mounting point for the throttle cable?

Obviously, and I don't plan to just re-install as without some alteration. I have not move the pull point yet. If you look at the first picture, its pretty nicely lined up. I really think I'm either over pulling the cable a few thousands or the S14 throttle body has some differences


Anybody have any pictures of an S14 SR throttle body?

[mct3351]

You are right about how the s14 pulley is installed on an s14 throttle body but the pulley sits closer to the throttle body on the s14 than the s13. See the "free body diagram" for clarification on what I mean by bending. The throttle cable pull is much closer to the throttle body on both the s13 and s14 from the factory than what your working with. The yellow shows an exageration of how the axle is bending once the stop is reached. The OEM s13 pulley is deeply concave to move the pulling action closer to the throttle body.
http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/500/medium/weldedthrottlebodyfailure3.jpg

[s14unimog]

You are right about how the s14 pulley is installed on an s14 throttle body but the pulley sits closer to the throttle body on the s14 than the s13. See the "free body diagram" for clarification on what I mean by bending. The throttle cable pull is much closer to the throttle body on both the s13 and s14 from the factory than what your working with. The yellow shows an exageration of how the axle is bending once the stop is reached. The OEM s13 pulley is deeply concave to move the pulling action closer to the throttle body.picture

I'm not denying that the S14 pulley, installed on an S13 throttle body, doesn't increases the leverage advantage on the center shaft, I even brought that up myself when responding to Def. What I am trying to illustrate that there is more to just slapping on an S14 pulley to cure the cable alignment issues with a GReddy style manifold. And more recently to discount those who think I've got it installed incorrectly.

The main objective behind this thread is to bring to light the problems with this commonly recognized quick solution for the GReddy style manifold. Thanks for the illustration, and I'm quite aware of what you are describing, but like I said, this is/has been a common solution for this manifold. Apparently more support is needed for this assembly.

My new throttle body will be here in a few days. I'll get some real numbers and see if its an adjustment issue or if more support is needed. I think the pulley is a great solution but might require additional support.

[SoSideways]

I believe Steve Shadows on here went to a Q45 TB and all his problems went away.

The Q45 TB does indeed have a larger bore, but I think the axle shaft is also a lot thicker.

IIRC he had a thread on this forum (if not, then it was probably on Fresh Alloy) explaining what was going on and the results, with pictures of course.

[codyace]

I'm not denying that the S14 pulley, installed on an S13 throttle body, doesn't increases the leverage advantage on the center shaft, I even brought that up myself when responding to Def. What I am trying to illustrate that there is more to just slapping on an S14 pulley to cure the cable alignment issues with a GReddy style manifold. And more recently to discount those who think I've got it installed incorrectly.


Ahhh I see what they are saying about your pulley, it's simply way to far over to work as OEM...there ahs certainly got to be an additional 'stress' on the length of that rod being so far over, compared to where OEM is.

Here are pics of mine...granted not the best, but I've NEVER had an issue:

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album303/bay_01.sized.jpg

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album303/bay_33.sized.jpg

Pics from a few years back:

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album324/IMG_1891.sized.jpg


Edit: Here I zoomed in (I know quality sucks, but you can see haha)

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album303/zoom.jpg

[s14unimog]

yeah I'm thinking I might machine a support bearing; with a brass or bronze journal to support the outer end, or add some strength to the center shaft. I see you made a bracket they allowed you to retain the S13 pulley. I'll keep that in mind, since I know I've got an S13 one around here somewhere, if I can't mfg. a more rigid setup.

[codyace]

Yea it took a few trys, but I got it sorted. Made one for my roomate as well. I'll take better pics and measurements tonight for ya :D

[jspaeth]

Seems like you don't have a stop to your throttle cable/pedal, causing you to put a lot of stress on the throttle shaft when you are smashing that pedal to the floor, haha.

Fab up a stop for the throttle pulley. Problem solved.

It HAS to be this, right?

I just installed a new KA throttle cable on an SR throttle body, S14, and I KNOW I set it up properly....


When the throttle is fully open (verified by a second person), the pedal is NOT touching the pedal stop.

I guess the SR throttle is smaller than the KA one, and thus requires less pedal throw to fully rotate 90*.

I plan to install a piece of 2x4 or something on top of the pedal stop so that the pedal JUST hits the stopper as it opens all the way.

[NYS13SLIDER]

Out of all of this im thinking the best and cheapest remedy(except the 2x4 behind the pedal) would be to fab up a bracket that locates the throttle cable back inwards in order to utilize the stock throttle pulley again. Am i missing something? Im hoping to finish this small but so important detail on my car today.

[s14unimog]

^ Likely. It might just be that the S14 throttle body pulley just induces too much side loading on the shaft, being that sits that far out. If what Jspaeth says is true, its possible that the pedal will allow for an over rotate scenario and just break the shaft... Either way, what ever I put back in the line of fire, I assure you those screws will be welded. It was too much of a headache to do a head gasket for this; and I lucked out with my damage....

My throttle body should be here any day now... I'll know something more by then.

[lok]

you should put some mesh after the throttle body in case it happens again.

[bloodangels13]

red locktight the screws. I wouldnt weld them considering the shaft is probly treated metal that wont take to the heating that welding will cause. double check the stops and give the cable a hair of slack. If your still having the issue something is seriously wrong

[s14unimog]

you should put some mesh after the throttle body in case it happens again.

Yeah but then I would have to randomly check this "catch" for a dislodged screw and who knows what that would do to the airflow in the manifold.


red locktight the screws. I wouldnt weld them considering the shaft is probly treated metal that wont take to the heating that welding will cause. double check the stops and give the cable a hair of slack. If your still having the issue something is seriously wrong

I hear what you're saying, but it doesn't look as though my tack's had anything to do with the failure; the break isn't associated and happened just as the first one did that wasn't welded. I think "seriously wrong" is a bit excessive...The existing assembly, if adjustment isn't necessary, just requires more support. The next ones will once again be tacked, I'm not risking the motor on loc-tite.

[hsitko]

Guys, guys, guys. This is so simple its silly. You have the full throttle adjustment for your throttle cable too tight. You are pulling the throttle shaft torsionally when you hit full throttle because you have already opened the throttle 100% before your pedal gets to the floor. You need either 2 people or a brick to get your adjustment correct. One person (or brick) to hold the pedal to the floor and one to adjust the throttle cable to "not guitar string tight".

You want just a little bit of slack in the throttle cable when you are at full throttle. You want to open the throttle all the way just not to the point where you have already achieved full throttle and can still press the pedal further. Your cable mounting bracket might not be positioned correctly. It looks like you are already at the end of your adjustment. You do not need a throttle stop. You just need to adjust your cable properly. I GUARANTEE this is why you have broken 2 of them.

[s14unimog]

we shall see. It should get here tomorrow or the next. I'm not adjusting anything until I get it all back together and can figure out what's happening.

I agree with you that this might be the problem but I do recall setting the cable up not to do that. I'll be sure to follow up what happened

[s14unimog]

Okay guys, its obvious what the problem is. After reassembling everything, just as I had it, I noted the pedal stopped, via the stop on the throttle body, about 1/4" off the pedal stop on the floor board; Doh!. Now considering you can't adjust this pedal sweep range, the only clear solution is an extended stop on the floor board (as a few have mentioned). Now my big question....


How many SR's are riding around and using the throttle body stop as the pedal stop? Answer: all of them?

I don't see how it couldn't be the case, unless modified by the engine installer, the 240sx cable and pedal assembly can't be shortened by some adjustment under the dash and considering the diameter of the SR20 pulley, it just pulls too much.

Why has this not come up more?

I'll post some pictures of my findings and fix once I get a stop machined.

[s14unimog]

So here is the stop... This was the easiest/most reliable thing I could come up with. I replaced the back strap for the pedal with a billet piece I machined. I decked the surface until about a 1/16" was left at the throttle stop. I also rewelded the new screws on the throttle body hinge (not interested in taking any chances) and welded up that pressure port on the bottom of the throttle body.

If you're running an SR20 then you should consider looking at your setup. Unless I'm missing something, this should be a problem for everyone.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/billetthrottlebodystop002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/billetthrottlebodystop005.jpg

[codyace]

THat will certainly fix it!

I know I spent quie some time designing a bracket to not require a stopper, but man that looks great! Nice solution

[jspaeth]

Okay guys, its obvious what the problem is. After reassembling everything, just as I had it, I noted the pedal stopped, via the stop on the throttle body, about 1/4" off the pedal stop on the floor board; Doh!. Now considering you can't adjust this pedal sweep range, the only clear solution is an extended stop on the floor board (as a few have mentioned). Now my big question....


How many SR's are riding around and using the throttle body stop as the pedal stop? Answer: all of them?

I don't see how it couldn't be the case, unless modified by the engine installer, the 240sx cable and pedal assembly can't be shortened by some adjustment under the dash and considering the diameter of the SR20 pulley, it just pulls too much.

Why has this not come up more?

I'll post some pictures of my findings and fix once I get a stop machined.


This is 100% definitely true.

The question to me now, however, is why this would ever cause stress on the THROTTLE SHAFT.......it seems to me that once the throttle pulley hits the stopper, any subsequent pressure put on the pedal only results in additional tension in the cable.

It does not seem that additionally pushing on the pedal imparts any additional stress on the shaft........

Nonetheless, I agree with your assessment.

I basically think that the circumfrence of the SR throttle pulley is smaller than that of the KA.....

Hence, less pedal action is required to fully open the throttle.


The interesting question here would be if someone owns a JDM 240sx could measure the distance between the pedal and the floor stopper in their car. My bet is that the stopper on a JDM 240 sits closer to the pedal.

[NYS13SLIDER]

nice pedal extension, but i think the quicker easier solution would have been to add the piece of billet,or for that matter, any other suitable material as an extension on top of the throttle stop thats already located on the floor and not on the pedal itself. Thats what i plan on doing at least.

[s14unimog]

THat will certainly fix it! I know I spent quie some time designing a bracket to not require a stopper, but man that looks great! Nice solution

Thanks! Can you elaborate more on how you prevented over pulling?

This is 100% definitely true.
The question to me now, however, is why this would ever cause stress on the THROTTLE SHAFT.......it seems to me that once the throttle pulley hits the stopper, any subsequent pressure put on the pedal only results in additional tension in the cable.
It does not seem that additionally pushing on the pedal imparts any additional stress on the shaft........
Nonetheless, I agree with your assessment.
I basically think that the circumfrence of the SR throttle pulley is smaller than that of the KA.....
Hence, less pedal action is required to fully open the throttle.
The interesting question here would be if someone owns a JDM 240sx could measure the distance between the pedal and the floor stopper in their car. My bet is that the stopper on a JDM 240 sits closer to the pedal.

Yeah, I would also love to know this. There has got to be a few Silvia's on here that can comment, although I'm not sure how easily measured that is. I see what you're saying about the shaft and I think that is the case on the stock setup; S13 SR20 with S13 pulley, since its offset more towards the throttle body. Surely the extra moment arm of the S14 pulley has to push it past its breaking point. Also don't forget the stop isn't located on the pulley its closer to the throttle body, so the cable is actually out past that leverage point (reference the first picture in this thread). After installing the piece I ran down a couple nice roads on the way home and noticed how hard I would contact the stop under throttle modulation; its apparent its there.

nice pedal extension, but i think the quicker easier solution would have been to add the piece of billet,or for that matter, any other suitable material as an extension on top of the throttle stop thats already located on the floor and not on the pedal itself. Thats what i plan on doing at least.


I originally tried what you are describing but that factory stop is only secured with the one self tapping screw and if you remove the stop you'll see that its not as easy as it looks to mount to. You can't drill into the piece, b/c you'll fu*k up how it mounts and since its so loosely mounted I didn't feel anything I mounted to it would be reliable.

[codyace]

I honestly just made a bunch of brackets until it worked haha. Brick on the pedal to simulate wot on the floor, and then adjusted the stopper and arm and etc etc.

I have NO CLUE why I didn't consider a piece of wood on the factory stop, that would have been easier back then, but it is what it is hehe.

[s14unimog]

oh I see what you're saying, lol. I had to trash a motor to figure mine out...

[TheRealSy90]

Bringing this back from the dead.

Disregard the whole "S14 pulley is the problem" shit. Mine is an S13 pulley.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/388518_281329561904122_100000812405590_739633_9093 098_n.jpg

Now what i'm thinking is the best fix, is actually to not fix it. Simply because the way it is now allows for a bit of flex after the throttle body is at wot. And it still opens and closes just fine. I Can't see how not fixing it will have any ADDITIONAL negative side effects. Thoughts?

[jr_ss]

Besides your throttle plate sliding off center and locking it wide open I see no ill side effects...

[TheRealSy90]

The TPS side of the rod and everything is still very tight fitting, the plate doesn't move around at all from what I could tell when I was messing with it.

[J_SquidYO]

is that the stock manifold??? the realsly90? My buddy went thru 7 throttl bodies before he went q45 and we literally tried everything u guys have said and nothing fixed it he got lucky everytime when he noticed it idliing high because the pulley had pushed itself out and had a vacuum leak

we did stock cable holder and 2 custom ones he had s14 pulley which suck and mine broke with that also and im stock sr with the isis manifold never had a problem with the stock mani he even made it so the throttle only open like 90% and it still broke

he has around 400hp also with an isis manifold and he tried ka TB's Sr TB's and none held it honestly i asking if it was a stock manifold because i think it has to do with the manifold and how u drive your car it seemed to happen to him pretty easily when he would bounce rev limit drifting or playing around and IDK if that is when it has happened with you guys but something else to take into account

we have also tried different pedel stops with no luck he just made a custom plate and cut his manifold and welded the q45 plate onto it so he could bolt it right one and it has held up since

and i had the same problem as the thread starter cyl 1 sucked up the screw "tick tick" removed the head and exact same thing am deffinitaly in torevive this thread and see if anyone has any more updates

['97 S14 SE Turbo]

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/388518_281329561904122_100000812405590_739633_9093 098_n.jpg


You really should fix it. See the shiny marks on the butterfly plate around the break? That's from it moving and scraping against the broken shaft. See the unbroken side? That additional signs showing the amount of movement the plate is having. Airflow around a butterfly plate is not smooth, so over time, the rest of the shaft will break, costing you a lot more in repairs.

One thing I've seen regarding the cause behind breaking the pulley shaft is the throttle cable positioning. It should not have ANY side loading when pulling on the pulley. NONE!!! That causes sideloading on the shaft. From what I can see in the pictures of the OP and your picture, there is misalignment of the throttle cable to the pulley. Go look at OEM setup and see how well aligned they actually are. It may look simple, but not keeping it aligned will cause problem.

[s14unimog]

guys I'm telling you, the problem with the pedal pull length. You gotta stop it their. I made that spacer for mine and its been fine ever since. I still weld the backs of my screws to the hinge for the extra security.

[!Zar!]

Adjust the stop.

DONE.

[s14unimog]

^No. It's at the pedal. There is no stop to adjusts. You have to make the pedal responsible for the stop.

[!Zar!]

The stop is located behind the pedal broham.

[stevecorrado88]

I've tried it all. U can say its the pedal stop n I'm sure that could be the case just like all the other examples everyone has said. But what if u tried all them n it still failed like in my case. Like squid said I probly broke 7 tb tryin different things and nothing helped. I even make my throttle open to about 90 percent so it wouldn't pull it father than should. Q45 fixed it all, I can't feel a difference other than have more power top end.

[yellowcr]

try the q throttle body had the same prob

[TheRealSy90]

You really should fix it. See the shiny marks on the butterfly plate around the break? That's from it moving and scraping against the broken shaft. See the unbroken side? That additional signs showing the amount of movement the plate is having. Airflow around a butterfly plate is not smooth, so over time, the rest of the shaft will break, costing you a lot more in repairs.

One thing I've seen regarding the cause behind breaking the pulley shaft is the throttle cable positioning. It should not have ANY side loading when pulling on the pulley. NONE!!! That causes sideloading on the shaft. From what I can see in the pictures of the OP and your picture, there is misalignment of the throttle cable to the pulley. Go look at OEM setup and see how well aligned they actually are. It may look simple, but not keeping it aligned will cause problem.

Damn I didn't notice the marks from the butterfly moving around when open until you said something. Yeah i'm definitely going to have to do something about it.

@ J_SquidYO, not a stock manifold. It's a TopSpeed (greddy style).

@ S14Unimog, interested in making another one of the stops like you have?

[s14unimog]

The stop is located behind the pedal broham.

Where? there isn't one. The cable is crimped just beyond an eyelet and has no way to adjust. At least on my s14.

Yeah i'm definitely going to have to do something about it.

@ S14Unimog, interested in making another one of the stops like you have?

ya think? Na man, I didn't record any dimensions and it only works with the Razo pedals I'm using.

[conrad_s13.5]

ive heard alot about these problems and never saw any examples!

scary shit!

def something to look into before i get my set up running again.
might as well upgrade to a q45/etc anyway right?

[stevecorrado88]

I don't recommend a q45 fb swap unless u have a reason. If your stock tb works than keep it. If your running high hp than its more of a upgrade. The q45 tb have a bracket so the pulley can't really get pulled to the side, to who ever that broke one u must have something really off.