Rear pad change,ebrake stays on.

[Siberian Husky]

What did i F*** up?

I changed out my rear pads and rotors, put everything back together. My ebrake stays on regardless of lever location. Even when fully disengaged the ebrake stays on as well as the ebrake light, car wont move.

[guitaraholic]

Did you mess with the hydrolic systems (ie bleed brakes), check your fluid level

[Siberian Husky]

i havnt bled yet but i know I have to cause i released the bleed valve to help get the piston back in.

[mxexux]

Hopefully you TURNED the piston back in instead of pressing it back in.

[Siberian Husky]

it doesnt matter because as you press, it turns. so i did both, pressed first then finished with turning.

[Siberian Husky]

if it helps any, for the rear pass piston i banged the eva-lovin shit out of that with a happen to get it to start movin. shit was seized up, then i finished it off with some rotations from the pliers. not sure if this method would contribute to my ebrake staying locked. i'll bleed tomorrow and take it from there.

[nieko]

The ebrake light has almost NOTHING to do with the braking system... lol

all it does, is tell you your ebrake lever is up. or you are low on brake fluid.

anyway

shoulda bought the 5 dollars piston tool for the rear.

chances are, you didnt screw that piston in far enough or something.

[Urbanfer]

hmm i have the same problem my ebrake light stays on no matter if the lever is up or down but the car runs still wondering why the light stays on

[Siberian Husky]

you talking about the square tool?

[cotbu]

First the ebrake light is simply a ground switch, remove the center console and find the switch, play with it see if you find a problem with it.

second, if you pads where really low and you adjusted the ebrake lever multiple times, put some slack back in it. then readjust appropriately.

third,if you had to bang the caliper back over the rotors? Well c'mon!

They should go on fairly easy and you should know if there's a problem before you put the wheels back on, unless I'm missing something.

[nismoman]

you really need to read the a manual. Not trying to be rude but you did this all kinds of wrong.

[240sx123$]

Ive had issues like this before- sometimes if you start turning the piston, itll just spin and not really go in. Ive needed to put pressure on it, while turning to get it to start going in. I assume you already got past this point.

Do you change your brake pads with the e-brake lever UP? If so, that could be your problem. You need to let the ebrake down when servicing the rear brakes.

[WIKID S4TEEN]

you talking about the square tool?

Let me google that for you (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=rear+caliper+tool)

If you're supa lazy, click here: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://www.alltools.com.au/shop/images/sz/2447.jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.alltools.com.au/shop/index.php/556/2447_Rear_Disc_Brake_Caliper_Tool_(_Universal_)&h=224&w=256&sz=13&tbnid=C0x7UcgwqnYTWM:&tbnh=97&tbnw=111&prev=/images%3Fq%3Drear%2Bcaliper%2Btool&zoom=1&q=rear+caliper+tool&usg=__fkeN-L86NZL_3OXxAwQ4mlIj7qg=&sa=X&ei=j3YLTeOACY70swOizdiCCw&ved=0CEsQ9QEwCg

AND watch this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AIKtACxUTw
You're welcome!

Edit: much better video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlMU8K36Hjo&feature=related

[5pecialist]

Randomly smashing in caliper pistons = BAD

[ManoNegra]

if the piston turns is going in or out
the square tool makes it an easy job, pliers will work too but a pita

could be the handle/cable needs adjusting after new pads
10mm nut under your e-brake handle boot

did you make sure one of the 90° grooves in the piston lined up with the dimple on the pad?
if not, this can lead to all kinds of fail

is the piston seal nice and flat or did it get twisted as you turned the piston?
this is the reason my passenger rear started failing recently
which led me to overhauling my brakes
if it is, clean it with brake clean and use a silicone lube spray to loosing it up
avoid WD40 as it will become gunk when it mixes with brake dust
if it's beyond saving, consider a rebuilt kit
the rear kit is ~$20 for both pistons

and finally, ditch the stupid oem sliding caliper set up
and switch to the z32 piston set up

[nismoman]

and finally, ditch the stupid oem sliding caliper set up
and switch to the z32 piston set up

if he is having trouble installing pads.....imagine how hard a brake swap would be

[Siberian Husky]

i forgot to disconnect ebrake cable below caliper before doing it all, and im low on fluid big time.

dang i r dumb.

[Siberian Husky]

the problem was that the rotor was sitting a bit off, had to adjust it. also the light was indicative of low brake fluid, thats all. (i think someone mentioned that, thanks!)

didnt expect so many people to get their panties in a bunch over my wackin the piston, that thing is so threaded it turns as you hit it. i beat the shit out of it and it works fine. shit stops on a dime now, thanks to those who pitched in!

[cotbu]

X D ! :wtf:

[nismoman]

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk123/mac209hyphy/panties.jpg panties in a bunch.......

[S-Nation S13]

^^^^^ lol at pictar, just goes to show you gotta look at all aspects of the problem, to figure out what the problem was..glad to see that you figured it out