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roadster6909
12-03-2010, 04:46 PM
Hi, i've been disassemblying my engine, and i have replaced my rod bearings due to scoring. I have just came across that the crank bearings, are also scored to the copper. My neighbor said i need to replace them but i was wondering if i should?

My engine is an sr20det, and the nissan dealership say they do not have them, when i gave them the bearings ( 5 ) Part #- 12223-60J00 For the oil pan side of crank And ( 5 ) Part #- 12215-60J00 For ones closer to the head, with a grove in the middle.

http://i55.tinypic.com/28wjpj7.jpg
http://i55.tinypic.com/3f1a1.jpg

They wanted numbers from the rear side of the crank, and i couldnt located them, except for the ones in the front which had 3 sets of numbers (22211,1111,0312b) On the block, the number is (U, (A number i cannot recognized because it is scratched out,my mistake)132)

I told them i needed the bearings for a 92 sentra se-r, but that had a numerous amounts of them.

Can anyone help me out or link me to the exact ones i need?

The engine is an sr20det redtop.

jah
12-03-2010, 04:57 PM
download this sir....i have watched it hella not sure if this helps but yeah cool vid... you might to edit this link it wont let me link to the exact thing to download ...type in SR 20 and a look for Sr rebuilt download it .hooking yall up with free shit haha

http://search.utorrent.com/search.php?q=sr%2020%20swap&e=http://google.com/search%3fq%3dfiletype%253Atorrent%2b&u=1

roadster6909
12-03-2010, 07:51 PM
No thanks, sounds a bit awkward appreciate the help though.
I would like some personal advice/ help.

jah
12-03-2010, 08:04 PM
lol ok but it shows u everything about your motor lol

roadster6909
12-03-2010, 10:23 PM
I just need information on the bearings i have listed, i appreciate your help, thanks!

ManoNegra
12-04-2010, 10:45 AM
FSM for your motor will tell you the right procedure to measure clearances and
choose the right bearing for your motor based on the condition of your crank and rods

I don't think asking here will get you the right answer

mewantkouki
12-04-2010, 11:29 AM
I can't believe this is a serious thread... You're asking people's opinions on whether or not you should replace damaged main bearings? Key word: DAMAGED

Homer_Simpson
12-04-2010, 12:05 PM
How's your crank journals looking? Sounds like you shouldn't be doing this yourself.

On your camera there's a button with a green flower/plant on it. Press that button and take some better pictures of the carnage.

roadster6909
12-04-2010, 02:07 PM
The crank journals are fine, i took the crank to a shop to get it checked, and he measured every journal, and clearences and he said the crank is good to use. I will take some more pictures as soon as possible

If this helps, theirs a set of numbers on the front of the crank-(top row- 22211, 2nd row- 1111, and the row beneath that is 0312b)

Nissan dealership gave me a diagram, and i needed to match numbers up for the right bearings.. The crank numbers ( first row), and the block number, located on the block near the 4th cylinder (U ? 132) The ? Indicates that number is scratched out by someone who didnt disasemble the engine correctly and the number or letter is not readable... I don't know what to do and my father is throwing the 240 out soon.. please help me out. The associate at nissan told me to possibly go to a machine shop, but idk what to do... THANKS!

nismoman
12-04-2010, 06:28 PM
2.0 Liter - Nissan 2.0 4 Cyl. 91-02 SR20DE Crankshaft Kit (http://www.apmengineparts.com/nissan-2-0-4-cyl--91-02-sr20de-crankshaft-kit-8341b.html)
Order this slap it in and call it done no guesswork. Ive ordered from them before good people. Already reground with matching bearings. And yes it will fit the det. Cranks are identical.

nevertheless
12-04-2010, 06:30 PM
Replace all your bearings.

nieko
12-05-2010, 01:48 AM
top row- 22211, 2nd row- 1111,

first set of numbers are for your main bearings.
second set is for rods.

there should be 5 numbers also stamped on your block.

lets pretend those numbers are 11112

the first number in the list is for the first journal.

you take the first number on the block 1 and the first number on the crank 2.

now you add them together. 1 + 2 = 3.

so for the first journal you would need grade 3 main bearing (yellow).

keep going down the numbers and doing the same thing.

Here are the nissan OEM bearing grade/colors for sr20det.

0 A (black)
1 B (brown)
2 C (green)
3 D (yellow)
4 E (blue)
5 F (pink)
6 G (no color)

Just spoon fed you bro. I'm bored.

roadster6909
12-05-2010, 09:29 AM
Nieko, i do know this, but maybe i didn't make it clear which is my apology.
I have recieved the diagram of which looks likes a crossword, stating which STD bearing kit to recieve, which was between 1-4.

ALTHOUGH, this is my problem, i cannot identify the 2nd number, because of the following:

http://i53.tinypic.com/34hhu8i.jpg
http://i54.tinypic.com/2hpkduf.jpg
Hopefully you guys can help me recognize it.. U22132 Is my guess, but i don't think a guess is good enough..

As for thy who've wanted better photos of bearings of which need to be replaced:
http://i52.tinypic.com/99jfr9.jpg

If anyone requests to see more photos, i more than likely will take.

THANKS! Hopefully, i can order them in time by tomorow and get this baby back together.

Slikk Logic
12-05-2010, 10:23 AM
jus get all sizes and check your oil clearances

nismoman
12-05-2010, 10:45 AM
Just do what I said in my post above, then you won't have to guess or even think about it

roadster6909
12-05-2010, 10:56 AM
The resonance behind me not wanting to buy a whole crank set is because my crank is good to use, and got the clearences and journal sizes, etc checked at a shop, and its good to use. The other reason is because i don't have much money to spent, due to the cost of the whole rebuilt ive put in already..

Here's a picture of the crank.
http://i51.tinypic.com/33avsdd.jpg

gotta240
12-05-2010, 12:00 PM
This is the LAST place you want to cheap out/save money. Those bearings are fucking toast. I'm not an engine builder, but I dont see how your crank can be perfectly fine with bearings fucked like that. I would personally have my crank at LEAST polished if not ground/polished, buy new bearings, and sleep well at night knowing I wont have a spun or chewed up crank/rod bearing on a fresh rebuild.

roadster6909
12-05-2010, 12:12 PM
A mechanic at heartbreaker racing engines shop checked my crank, and he said it was fine to use.. the question is, what is the numbers i cannot re create on the block? I want to head over to the dealership and order the right bearings so i don't spin them within a few minutes of turning on my rebuilt car.

Fries
12-05-2010, 12:40 PM
Theres a clearance distance for the crank and the bearings, bring block and crank to a shop to have them find the proper bearings for you when you need ____ clearance. Its in the fsm somewheres...

roadster6909
12-05-2010, 01:30 PM
Wouldnt i be able to just go to the dealership, and give them the block numbers, which im assuming are 22132? Do all sr blocks have the same numbers to make sure? Pics above^

Or would i actually have to bring it to a shop and do what you said.. and do they order the propers ones for you? If so can you name some shops? I'm located im chicago illinois..

waxball88
12-05-2010, 03:04 PM
...If you're tearing an engine apart you should definitely take the time to replace all bearings and seals... Do it right, or do it twice...

Bring it to the dealer, or a shop. Give them the numbers and they'll figure it out.

nismoman
12-05-2010, 05:40 PM
No they don't all have the same numbers. That's the point. Noone can just tell you what the sizes are. That's why each journal has it's own grade number they ate different sizes measured at the factory. If the numbers aren't there all you can do is have it measured. Or at least the ones that you can't figure out by the numbers. Have you you downloaded the FSM? it's all in there.

roadster6909
12-06-2010, 06:34 AM
What's all their? And do you happen to know around what section it is located?

nismoman
12-06-2010, 07:11 AM
Nissan Factory Service Manual (FSM) (http://www.phase2motortrend.com/nifasemaf.html) Try that

Gotta be honest with you, if you were gonna try to reassmble your engine without the manual, you were gonna f$&@ something up.

roadster6909
12-06-2010, 09:57 AM
I've been using the manual, and i've taken apart and assembled this thing plenty of times, This time i thoroughly inspected everything, replaced the damaged items, and now i've ran into these bearings. I'll go to the dealership and show them the numbers, see what they can do but most likely they will say what they said last time, sorry i wish i can help you.. But im more than sure they will need that 2nd number.... :( WHich i think is a 2 or a 3, as shown in picture above.

nieko
12-06-2010, 02:05 PM
those people at the dealerships arent always the smartest.

dont take them both numbers.

add them together like i said and that is the bearing you need.

but this will only work IF your crank journals have never been touched or your block journals.

and that second number is totally a 2. imo lol

roadster6909
12-06-2010, 02:20 PM
At the dealership, they have a similar diagram, and i beleive its more like a crossword
They take ? number from crank and move down till u hit ? number from block
It looks to seem as you either get, STD 1,2,3,4.. not sure, but ill stop by their right now.

Rambuck
01-02-2014, 02:46 PM
Wow. Came across this thread after three years, searching for a similar topic. There's a succinct answer here already, but perhaps not answering the poster's question thoroughly, so perhaps others may find this useful:

The "crossword" is an attempt to simplify the lookup for proper bearing grade, with crank grades down one side and block/rod grades along the other side of a table. Perhaps folks get overwhelmed from seeing twenty or more possibilities, but really you don't need the table. Just add the two digits together to get the proper grade.

The poster seems confused about grades, and so do some of the responses. First of all, grades only apply for new parts from Nissan, because they qualify the accuracy of the clearance to just a few microns. Yes, that's thousandths of a millimeter. There is no way of production machining to that accuracy. It can however be quantified (with a profilometer) after the fact and stamped on the parts. Each successive grade is only an increment of 3 microns. To put in perspective, a grade 6 is 18 microns (undersized on crank, and/or oversized on journal). The acceptable clearance on my VQ30 mains is 35-53 microns (0.0014-0.0021"), or an acceptable allowance of 18 microns (0.0007"). The absolute limit is 65 microns.

So, to find someone to clarify that scratched out digit... No one can tell you what this is. Trying is naive. Sure, we all wish to achieve the ultimate tightest spec, which is why Nissan has grading standards. But if you were off by 3 microns, there will be no consequence. The missing digit in the poster's pic looks like a 2, and probably is, since the adjacent ones are 2 and 1. A 3 would exhibit too much variance from the sequence. But, if there was any reasonable doubt, go with a looser clearance rather than too small of a clearance. You will still be within spec. You will not be able to measure this accurately even with a decent micrometer; and this level of accuracy far exceeds a "standard" aftermarket bearing such as ACL, Clevite, or King, which is available in STD or STD+0.025mm (0.001") ... as well as serviced oversized.

Now, if you are doing a lot of high rpm performance, where you are tearing the engine down every few races, then that 3 microns can become important...


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zurud
01-03-2014, 03:55 PM
If your crankshaft is fine. Just use std bearing from ACL