Fresh swapped SR not getting spark... help me please

[srJOEYdet]

Hey guys,

I seem to be having a lot of trouble, but it is my first swap. It is an S13 Redtop SR20det into a 91 240SX Everything I know of is plugged in except four plugs. There is one coming off of my fuse box near the air filter (driver's side), which has no mate. Also not plugged in are three from the SR wiring harness. They would end up near the O2 sensor in the JDM car, but in mine they are near the intake manifold.

I have 12.2 volts through my battery, the terminals are on tight too. THe engine cranks over easily, but doesnt even sputter. I pulled a spark plug and grounded it, I saw no spark. (they are ngk copper heat range 7 gapped .030) There is fuel pressure from my walbro 255lph at the rail (where it sprayed out untill i clamped it better), but there is no residue of any kind on the spark plugs. Can anyone tell me where those extra plugs on the harness go? I know the smallest one goes to the little valve thing in the vacuum department. I took it off and ran them the simple way described here:

The vacuum lines are simple: 3 lines start at the throttle body. The bottom one goes to the canister, block it off unless you are using the canister. The larger one on top runs to the bypass valve (BOV). The smaller top line tees to the fuel pressure regulator, and runs across the front of the engine to your boost gauge and/or the boost pressure port on your boost controller.

The wastegate gets its signal from the nipple on the intercooler piping. The Apexi boost controller stepping motors go in between the IC piping and the wastegate actuator. *by jeff holden*

plugs not hooked up:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid77/p78fefa69d8d30d7a225556a860fbe705/fb3b5fcf.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid77/p78fefa69d8d30d7a225556a860fbe705/fb3b5fcf.jpg

*this is also on 240sxforums.com

[Kid Zelda]

You know, I would suggest/help you out
but damn, I hate your icon, it drives me nuts, I want to shoot at him (you, if that's you)

[DuffMan]

I could be wrong about this, but that orange one looks like the plug to CAS. If that was not plugged in that would explain the no spark.

[srJOEYdet]

The four wire orange plug matches another one just like it. The one it looks just like is plugged into my CAS already, and it is the only one that will reach. Thanks though.

Kid Zelda- That is me. I will change it anyway though. It probably makes me look like an idot! lol Plus I haven't changed it in like a year!

***UPDATE***
I have 12V power at all four ignitor packs, still no spark though. I also have power to the blue/red wire on the lower harness by the battery wiring. (this is the coil power wire). I have no blown fuses either.
I noticed that the plugs for the coil packs are 3 wire, (+,-,E). I get power here, but what is the E? Also, All of my 12V checks were made with the ignition in the start and on positions.

I also found out where the smallest plug went. It goes to a little green unit that has two vacuum line nipples (input/output). It was not mentioned in the vacuum instructions from jeff holden, so I tossed it. It was probably a foctory boost monitoring system.

Joey

[Bill Roberts]

It certainly seems like a ground problem. Make sure each activated wire has potential to ground. I prefer to ground all lines to a common buss to avoid confusion.

Joey, check grounds with a vom under load status.


Kid, don't give Joey a hard time..he is actually DOING SOMETHING

Be in harmony with good things, not things that upset you.
All is as good as you make it...but if you want bad..Watch out..it can heap on you so much that...well figure it out and look at the world of zen.

No one here has ever been able to drift properly without it...or ever will. That is a promise.

[Kid Zelda]

Bill, chillLAX

I sent him a PM with some suggestions. a little after I posted that.

BTW, who's in your icon, looks like a TRANS .. ewwwww i dont like it;)

oh snaps, Joey has a new icon .. haha, that's better, holding the
W

[Bill Roberts]

I only know her face...which is all I wanna know...if she is a trans...well cool!

At least she is behind glass. I hope she has a deep voice ....


Talk to me baby yea...


Keep ya thinkin'

[TheSparo]

hey joey the black one on the left looks like the plug that goes into the PS line, there is a plug that sticks out from the metal line... check that out

[srJOEYdet]

SPARO- Good call, but my P/S sensor already has a mate.

Kid Zelda- I thought you would like my silly picture.
EDIT: I have no idea which plugs you are talking about. There is about 12 plugs under there.

Bill roberts- Do you mean to ground the coil wires in addition to the grounds already going through the plugs?

Also, I have another plug to throw into the confusion...

There is a five wire plug that looks just like the orange CAS one, expect one more wire. It is red/white, red/yellow, red/green, red/blue, and black. It is all in a liine also, not set up square like the plug that goes to the coil packs.

Also, the little grey plug goes to the factory boost controlling system, so I will be putting that back in.


Joey

[srJOEYdet]

Here is another update on my project. I plugged in the small grey plug, it went to the factory boost controller.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid77/p0769353795f85ad397347240afb4962f/fb37a1dc.jpg

I still have not found a home for this one. I looks like the power steering one, but isn't.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid77/p449b9ff7e6093c236e172234c7642419/fb37a1e1.jpg

This is a four wire plug that looks like the one that goes to the CAS. It has these wires: Black, black, black/white, white. Which are the same colors and plug that go to the distributor on a KA. It comes from the same area of the harness that the fuel injector plugs are on.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid77/p9a7e11df085c389b902bf2b5756d9ba4/fb37a1ec.jpg

This one looks important to me. It is a five wire plug, with the following wires: Red/white, red/yellow, red/green, red/blue, black. It will not plug into the CAS, becuase it has 5 wires, not four. If anyone with an SR could look and see where it is going, I would appreciate it. It comes off the main bundle of harness wires where there is a huge U shape in them, and it is one of the first plugs once you get through the firewall.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid77/pe65345c048202d63424f408ab7dce3d1/fb37a1f4.jpg

Here is the CAS plug, lengthened, and plugged into the CAS. Four wire: red/white, red, red/green, red/blue.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid77/p24783f7a78dc6e9a2013fd34b15c9a37/fb37a1fb.jpg

sorry for the long post.
Thanks a lot for all the help guys.

Joey

[cAnnAbiS13]

I hope we can help this dood out... wiring is going to be the biggest pain in my *** when I do the swap.

[the3SecondJerk]

Dude, the last two wires with the orange inside are for your IGNITOR CHIP! One is a four wire one has five wires. If you don't have the ignitor it obviousley won't fire. You can get it from an infiniti q45 I think. Actually I am positive it's the q45. get it!

Dan

[rednerd]

The ignitor out of a 93+ Q45 may be the same, but all of the Q45's that I have seen have the older CA sytle with the aluminum heat sink on the top. If you get one of those make sure you get the connector for the ingitor because they are different.

And please for the love of god solder your harness. You are asking for trouble if you don't. In fact I'd put money on bizarre problems popping up within a week of the engine running if you don't. Having your fuel pump intermittently cut out wouldn't be fun...

[srJOEYdet]

Sorry guys, I haven't checked back in a day or two. I soldered all those wires, and I plugged in the ignitor pack. I still have no spark. I am beggining to believe my CAS is bad.

At this point, all of the plugs are accounted for. I have been told I don't need to plug in any of the factory electronic boost controll devices, I will know as soon as I start. (I have an autometer boost gauge).

I have the blue/red wire spliced into the black/red wire near the battery (power to the coils). I have 12V power at all four coils. I have all my ignition system wiring done with solder. I have the ignitor chip plugged in, and I have the plug for the coils plugged in. I have tested for spark by grounding a plug to the block (out of the engine) with a coil pack attached to it, and having a buddy crank the engine. No spark at all.

I need a way to test my CAS. I am also going to test my injectors, because I think if I was getting fuel, I should at least have a residue on my plugs.

thanks for all the help. I can tell I am so close right now.

Joey

[rednerd]

Well, to check the cas the service manual simply says to pull it out of the head and spin the CAS gear while back probing two of the wires (the non-white ones I believe) and make sure you have fluctuation between 0-5v (?) on both of the other wires... don't quote me on the voltage, but that sounds right.

The easier way to test the CAS is to loosen up the bolts, mark the original position, and move the cas back and forth listening for the injectors to fire.

I'd put money on you having a bad ignitor. Do you have a volt meter that will check the continuity for diodes?

I'll try to dig up an ignitor and explain how to check it later. If you can find the fsm online somewhere it has the test. Do a google search for s14.pdf.

[srJOEYdet]

I have the manual for a CA18det S13. It is a different CAS I know. Because the CA one has a heat sink. May be the same ignitor though. I would D/L the S14 one, But I am on 56K, and that would take forever. There is also no acrobat reader on this computer, which is the only one in the house that has internet access.

I am also going to test the injectors tonight. I am going use a test light on the two pins in their electrical plugs, while a freind trys to start the engine. I am going to do this because I dont think I am getting fuel, since there is no residue on my spoark plugs at all.

Joey

[TheSparo]

joey, i found out that my ignitor was positioned wrong, which was the reason why my car wouldnt start, but last night it started after turning the inside of it a little bit, it runs extremely rich and advanced, but thats why im having nissan deal w/ the timing, but tim just saying take out the CAS and turn the inside in increments of 45* or so.. but i had spark from the start so i dunno... i didnt have to ground the plug to find spark, i just took out the coil pack w/ the plug in it, and i found out it had spark b/c i kinda shocked myself... lol bu good luck!!

[srJOEYdet]

I tested my injectors and got nothing. So I pulled the CAS. With the ignition in "run" while I turned the CAS by hand, I got no spark, and no fuel. I concluded that my CAS was bad. I called up venus, and they told me to send them the CAS and the ignitor chip, so I did. They will be in california by friday, and back here probably by thursday of next week. I will give you an update then.

Joey

[TheSparo]

i would like to vouch for Venus here, they wil send you anything you need, one of my motor mounts were broken on the CLIP and they are sending me another one, along with a PS belt b/c the one was ripped on mine, and since they sent me a hicas pump, i called them, they said if i pay for shipping ($15) they will send me the pump, and they dont ask me to send anything back to them. Very easy to deal with. im sure joey has the same to say... but thats up to him :)
just wanted to let people know, sorry again joey

[DJ Machine]

please tell me why you should have to pay ANYTHING?



Props to enjuku, my swap is 99% complete and theyve been there for me the whole way. I didnt receive my MAFS, ken went to the fedex place and shipped it to me overnight.