Bumnah
11-22-2010, 04:51 PM
For Sale: Track ready s13
Chassis:
S13 chassis with your regular dings and scratches.
Extremely low rust. View pictures, and come check it out in real life to see for yourself.
Black in color
Everything behind the front seats has been removed
No stereo or speakers, or wiring for the stereo system in the door.
Kouki Type X tail lights.
JDM front bumper lights
JDM 180sx cluster modified to read in MPH by user “knate”.
AC removed. Including lines.
Power steering intact
350z power steering reservoir retrofit
Manual front seat belts
Heat and defrost still work
Wingless, wiperless rear hatch installed
DC Sports rear strut tower bar
All emissions components removed.
Z32 fuel filter
Cusco license plate mount for the front.
MOTOR & Drivetrain:
Redtop S13 SR20DET purchased from Durden Perfab
SR20 5 speed transmission purchased from Durden Perfab
180sx 4.36 VLSD rear differential purchased from Durden Perfab
USMD triangle shaped 6 bolt output shafts. (Can use USDM 240sx axles).
B&M Short shifter
GReddy intake manifold
All radiator hoses under the intake manifold have been replaced.
Plastic intake manifold gasket
OEM fuel rail with Deatschwerks cleaned and flow tested 370cc injectors. Flow @ 402 cc. Test sheet available.
NGK PFR7G-11. OEM plugs, just 1 step colder.
GReddy pullies for the alternator, water pump, and power steering.
NEW belts for alternator, water pump, and power steering.
NEW OEM water pump
Water inlet and output pieces sandblasted and powder coated.
NEW s14 oil pick up installed
GReddy oil pan
Samco radiator hoses in blue
NEW 3 layer exhaust gasket
GReddy 3” turbo elbow
NEW turbo/elbow gasket
GReddy downpipe
NEW elbow/downpipe gasket
ALL new exhaust gaskets.
NEW copper crush washers for oil and water lines to the turbo
NEW clutch master cylinder
NEW clutch slave cylinder
Steel braided clutch brake line
Clutch damper box bypassed/removed
SPL clutch fork pivot
Exedy Stage 2 clutch with thin disk.
Toda flywheel (9 lbs)
Exedy throw out and pilot bearings
GReddy LS spec front mount intercooler. OEM diverter valve pipe opening welded shut. Piping in the bumper painted black.
Enjuku racing polished hot pipe with GReddy bov fitting. Modified with a vacuum feed for the turbo.
GReddy Type RS BOV
Aftermarket 3” intake tube to turbo. Modified for BOV recirculation
Apex’I S13 air intake
Saikou Michi Oil catch can. It is baffled. Works extremely well.
Nismo Thermostat
GReddy SMi white faced EGT gauge. Probe installed near #1 cylinder.
GReddy SMi white faced oil temperature gauge
GReddy SMi white faced oil pressure gauge
GReddy SMi white faced water temp gauge (not installed).
GReddy SMi white faced fuel pressure gauage (not installed).
GReddy SMi white faced boost gauge (not installed).
GReddy SMi gauge controller.
Blitz DC2 turbo timer.
Perrin manual boost controller.
Koyo 3 row radiator
FAL 220 fans
FAL electric controller
Touge factory oil block
Remote oil filter
Setrab oil filter
-8 AN lines for the oil filter and oil cooler
NEW OEM IACV for the s13 SR20det
NEW OEM knock sensor
Yoshio Factory radiator block off plate.
Buddy Club spec 2 exhaust
Megan Racing test pipe
Circuit sport polyurethane exhaust hangers.
Redline MT90 transmission fluid
Redline 75w90 differential fluid.
Royal Purple 10w40 oil.
Small Braille battery.
Nissan E5 ecu (180sx type x ecu)
NEW “FAT” o2 sensor. (Needed to run an E5 ecu).
Brakes:
NEW Z32 1 1/16 brake master cylinder
Remanufactured s13 brake booster
Z32 30 mm aluminum front brake calipers in red.
Brembo z32 30 mm front rotors
Z32 rear brake calipers in red
Powerslot – slotted rear rotors
Braided steel brake lines front and rear
Z32 rear parking brake assembly
NEW Z32 2+2 parking brake cables
Custom parking brake cable brackets
Ferodo DS2500 pads front and rear
Suspension & steering (This is what I focused on):
Nismo power brace
S14 front lower controls
S14 front control arms boxed in by MA-Motorsports. Sandblasted and painted silver for a fresh finish.
Super-Pro polyurethane bushings in the front lower control arms
NEW Moog S13 ball joints
S13 front knuckles sand blasted and painted grey for a fresh look.
HICAS front steering rack (hard to get).
Z32 inner tie rods
New tie rod boots
SPL outer tie rods
SPL V3 front tension rods
SPL front brake deflectors (not installed).
Progress front sway bar with Progress end links.
Progress rear sway bar with Progress end links.
S13 rear sub frame with weight shaved off.
S13 rear sub frame sand blasted and powder-coated lime green
SPL full aluminum sub frame bushings.
SPL V3 traction arms
SPL V3 rear upper control arms
SPL V3 rear toe arms
Z32 aluminum rear knuckles
SPL Z32 rear shock-mount bearing
Def/Skullwerks rear upright bearings for toe, upper control arm, and traction arms.
S13 rear lower control arms sand blasted and painted silver for a fresh finish
Prothane rear lower control arm polyurethane bushings.
NEW Moog balljoints in the s13 rear lower control arms using Sentra front balljoints.
Nardi Deep Corn 330 mm steering wheel.
NRG short hub
NRG quick release version 2.5
NRG quick release lock
KTS coilovers with z32 rear bottom mounts.
Ichiba 5 lug conversion hubs. Front Left hub has OEM wheel bearing.
Nismo 60mm extended lug studs front and rear
Open ended lug nuts
90% of the hardware in the front and rear suspension is brand new and OEM.
(4) White Enkei RPF01 in 17x9 +22 size
(4) Nitto NT01 255/40/17 tires
Details:
I bought the car in 2006 with the purpose of building a track car. I did all the work myself. 98% of the parts I purchased brand new. I took my time putting this together. The goal was to do as good of a job as possible; so there aren’t any cut corners. I also used only name brand parts. Once I rebuilt the suspension I had it corner balanced and aligned. I run 2.5 degrees negative camber in the front. Zero toe, and 7 degrees of caster. The rear is 1.5 degrees of negative camber with 0 toe.
I just don’t have time to maintain the car. My schedule is just getting busier and busier, resulting in less and less time to go to the track and to even maintain it. Being a track oriented car it needs a hands on person. Examples: the bearings need to be checked regularly. I tend to flush the fluids on a yearly basis. I check the torque specs on most of the hardware after events. I just don’t have time to keep up with it.
The chassis is in extremely great shape. I found very little rust while rebuilding the suspension. Even the rust I found was just surface rust. There is no rust on the frame rails. The frame is straight. I had the front end measured recently to confirm a true and straight frame.
My focus was to have a car with a nice and flat power band with good throttle response. The steering feel was extremely important as well. I never cared much for power, so I kept the T25 the whole time. I was planning on putting in a s15 T28 this weekend, but I am leaning towards selling it.
The car has been garage kept since I purchased it in 2006. I believe I am the third or fourth owner.
Known issues:
It needs a front alignment. The turbo smokes a little at idle. It leaks a little water by the moon roof during rain; very minor, and easy to fix.
Pictures:
Original purchase: The new Toy - Nissan 240SX (http://www.bumnah.com/240)
SR20 swap: Project Eva - Updated 10.07.07 (http://www.bumnah.com/swap)
5 lug & brakes: Project Eva - 5 Lug & Z32 Brakes - 10.17.07 (http://www.bumnah.com/brakes)
Suspension build: Project Eva - '09 Track Prep - Updated 06.23.09 (http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak)
http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak/images/image/311_ps_sus.jpg
http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak/images/image/346_str_on01.jpg
http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak/images/image/366_typex_layout.jpg
http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak/images/image/369_new_gauges_03.jpg
http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak/images/image/388_engine_bay.jpg
http://www.bumnah.com/temp_stuff/17rpf1-04.jpg
Price: $8800.
I have well over $20k invested just in parts, not including the sand blasting and powder-coating that was done. The meticulous installation of the parts should be apparent in the 30+ pages of pictures. I am not interested in any trades. I will work a little on price since this car will only appeal to a niche market. I will not be going much lower than this. I may end up parting it out if it does not sell.
Chassis:
S13 chassis with your regular dings and scratches.
Extremely low rust. View pictures, and come check it out in real life to see for yourself.
Black in color
Everything behind the front seats has been removed
No stereo or speakers, or wiring for the stereo system in the door.
Kouki Type X tail lights.
JDM front bumper lights
JDM 180sx cluster modified to read in MPH by user “knate”.
AC removed. Including lines.
Power steering intact
350z power steering reservoir retrofit
Manual front seat belts
Heat and defrost still work
Wingless, wiperless rear hatch installed
DC Sports rear strut tower bar
All emissions components removed.
Z32 fuel filter
Cusco license plate mount for the front.
MOTOR & Drivetrain:
Redtop S13 SR20DET purchased from Durden Perfab
SR20 5 speed transmission purchased from Durden Perfab
180sx 4.36 VLSD rear differential purchased from Durden Perfab
USMD triangle shaped 6 bolt output shafts. (Can use USDM 240sx axles).
B&M Short shifter
GReddy intake manifold
All radiator hoses under the intake manifold have been replaced.
Plastic intake manifold gasket
OEM fuel rail with Deatschwerks cleaned and flow tested 370cc injectors. Flow @ 402 cc. Test sheet available.
NGK PFR7G-11. OEM plugs, just 1 step colder.
GReddy pullies for the alternator, water pump, and power steering.
NEW belts for alternator, water pump, and power steering.
NEW OEM water pump
Water inlet and output pieces sandblasted and powder coated.
NEW s14 oil pick up installed
GReddy oil pan
Samco radiator hoses in blue
NEW 3 layer exhaust gasket
GReddy 3” turbo elbow
NEW turbo/elbow gasket
GReddy downpipe
NEW elbow/downpipe gasket
ALL new exhaust gaskets.
NEW copper crush washers for oil and water lines to the turbo
NEW clutch master cylinder
NEW clutch slave cylinder
Steel braided clutch brake line
Clutch damper box bypassed/removed
SPL clutch fork pivot
Exedy Stage 2 clutch with thin disk.
Toda flywheel (9 lbs)
Exedy throw out and pilot bearings
GReddy LS spec front mount intercooler. OEM diverter valve pipe opening welded shut. Piping in the bumper painted black.
Enjuku racing polished hot pipe with GReddy bov fitting. Modified with a vacuum feed for the turbo.
GReddy Type RS BOV
Aftermarket 3” intake tube to turbo. Modified for BOV recirculation
Apex’I S13 air intake
Saikou Michi Oil catch can. It is baffled. Works extremely well.
Nismo Thermostat
GReddy SMi white faced EGT gauge. Probe installed near #1 cylinder.
GReddy SMi white faced oil temperature gauge
GReddy SMi white faced oil pressure gauge
GReddy SMi white faced water temp gauge (not installed).
GReddy SMi white faced fuel pressure gauage (not installed).
GReddy SMi white faced boost gauge (not installed).
GReddy SMi gauge controller.
Blitz DC2 turbo timer.
Perrin manual boost controller.
Koyo 3 row radiator
FAL 220 fans
FAL electric controller
Touge factory oil block
Remote oil filter
Setrab oil filter
-8 AN lines for the oil filter and oil cooler
NEW OEM IACV for the s13 SR20det
NEW OEM knock sensor
Yoshio Factory radiator block off plate.
Buddy Club spec 2 exhaust
Megan Racing test pipe
Circuit sport polyurethane exhaust hangers.
Redline MT90 transmission fluid
Redline 75w90 differential fluid.
Royal Purple 10w40 oil.
Small Braille battery.
Nissan E5 ecu (180sx type x ecu)
NEW “FAT” o2 sensor. (Needed to run an E5 ecu).
Brakes:
NEW Z32 1 1/16 brake master cylinder
Remanufactured s13 brake booster
Z32 30 mm aluminum front brake calipers in red.
Brembo z32 30 mm front rotors
Z32 rear brake calipers in red
Powerslot – slotted rear rotors
Braided steel brake lines front and rear
Z32 rear parking brake assembly
NEW Z32 2+2 parking brake cables
Custom parking brake cable brackets
Ferodo DS2500 pads front and rear
Suspension & steering (This is what I focused on):
Nismo power brace
S14 front lower controls
S14 front control arms boxed in by MA-Motorsports. Sandblasted and painted silver for a fresh finish.
Super-Pro polyurethane bushings in the front lower control arms
NEW Moog S13 ball joints
S13 front knuckles sand blasted and painted grey for a fresh look.
HICAS front steering rack (hard to get).
Z32 inner tie rods
New tie rod boots
SPL outer tie rods
SPL V3 front tension rods
SPL front brake deflectors (not installed).
Progress front sway bar with Progress end links.
Progress rear sway bar with Progress end links.
S13 rear sub frame with weight shaved off.
S13 rear sub frame sand blasted and powder-coated lime green
SPL full aluminum sub frame bushings.
SPL V3 traction arms
SPL V3 rear upper control arms
SPL V3 rear toe arms
Z32 aluminum rear knuckles
SPL Z32 rear shock-mount bearing
Def/Skullwerks rear upright bearings for toe, upper control arm, and traction arms.
S13 rear lower control arms sand blasted and painted silver for a fresh finish
Prothane rear lower control arm polyurethane bushings.
NEW Moog balljoints in the s13 rear lower control arms using Sentra front balljoints.
Nardi Deep Corn 330 mm steering wheel.
NRG short hub
NRG quick release version 2.5
NRG quick release lock
KTS coilovers with z32 rear bottom mounts.
Ichiba 5 lug conversion hubs. Front Left hub has OEM wheel bearing.
Nismo 60mm extended lug studs front and rear
Open ended lug nuts
90% of the hardware in the front and rear suspension is brand new and OEM.
(4) White Enkei RPF01 in 17x9 +22 size
(4) Nitto NT01 255/40/17 tires
Details:
I bought the car in 2006 with the purpose of building a track car. I did all the work myself. 98% of the parts I purchased brand new. I took my time putting this together. The goal was to do as good of a job as possible; so there aren’t any cut corners. I also used only name brand parts. Once I rebuilt the suspension I had it corner balanced and aligned. I run 2.5 degrees negative camber in the front. Zero toe, and 7 degrees of caster. The rear is 1.5 degrees of negative camber with 0 toe.
I just don’t have time to maintain the car. My schedule is just getting busier and busier, resulting in less and less time to go to the track and to even maintain it. Being a track oriented car it needs a hands on person. Examples: the bearings need to be checked regularly. I tend to flush the fluids on a yearly basis. I check the torque specs on most of the hardware after events. I just don’t have time to keep up with it.
The chassis is in extremely great shape. I found very little rust while rebuilding the suspension. Even the rust I found was just surface rust. There is no rust on the frame rails. The frame is straight. I had the front end measured recently to confirm a true and straight frame.
My focus was to have a car with a nice and flat power band with good throttle response. The steering feel was extremely important as well. I never cared much for power, so I kept the T25 the whole time. I was planning on putting in a s15 T28 this weekend, but I am leaning towards selling it.
The car has been garage kept since I purchased it in 2006. I believe I am the third or fourth owner.
Known issues:
It needs a front alignment. The turbo smokes a little at idle. It leaks a little water by the moon roof during rain; very minor, and easy to fix.
Pictures:
Original purchase: The new Toy - Nissan 240SX (http://www.bumnah.com/240)
SR20 swap: Project Eva - Updated 10.07.07 (http://www.bumnah.com/swap)
5 lug & brakes: Project Eva - 5 Lug & Z32 Brakes - 10.17.07 (http://www.bumnah.com/brakes)
Suspension build: Project Eva - '09 Track Prep - Updated 06.23.09 (http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak)
http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak/images/image/311_ps_sus.jpg
http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak/images/image/346_str_on01.jpg
http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak/images/image/366_typex_layout.jpg
http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak/images/image/369_new_gauges_03.jpg
http://www.bumnah.com/trakpak/images/image/388_engine_bay.jpg
http://www.bumnah.com/temp_stuff/17rpf1-04.jpg
Price: $8800.
I have well over $20k invested just in parts, not including the sand blasting and powder-coating that was done. The meticulous installation of the parts should be apparent in the 30+ pages of pictures. I am not interested in any trades. I will work a little on price since this car will only appeal to a niche market. I will not be going much lower than this. I may end up parting it out if it does not sell.