S13 Race Technology Dash2 Cluster Build

[Broadfield]

This is part of my continued effort to show the process and explanation of some of my custom work. This was a cluster I did earlier this summer. I never did a write-up on it, but it's never too late.

This customer wanted me to flush/angle a Race Technology Dash2 cluster into his S13 OEM cluster housing. He contacted the company, and Race Technology recommended a 12 degree viewing angle for the best viewing. So he wanted me to "kick" the bottom back to get close to the recommended angle. He also wanted his single 52mm air/fuel gauge flanking the left side of the Dash 2.

http://images24.fotki.com/v829/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_4759-vi.jpg

http://images52.fotki.com/v1565/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_4769-vi.jpg

http://images12.fotki.com/v532/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_4775-vi.jpg


First I make the main plate. I have a template I use to make the rough cut. Simply trace it onto a piece of 1/4" MDF. This particular MDF has a veneer on it, but it doesn't matter. Plain 1/4" MDF is sometimes hard to find. I use MDF because it has very little amount of flex to it... it's very rigid.

http://images17.fotki.com/v326/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7342-vi.jpg

http://images28.fotki.com/v979/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7344-vi.jpg

I use 1/4" material because it perfectly sandwiches between the front black trim of the cluster and the rear white housing of the cluster. This is a pic of my gauge plate pressed into the back of the front cluster trim. You can see how it sits down flush with where the back white housing clips into. There is some trimming that needs to be done to get it to sit in there perfectly flush.. but not that much.

http://images28.fotki.com/v997/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7348-vi.jpg

http://images50.fotki.com/v1528/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7352-vi.jpg

Next up will be gutting the front black cluster trim so it's completely open.

[Chase Bays]

badass. Stoked to see this.

[sidewaysil80]

awesome, i salivate over these threads...i can't wait to read the one on my piece :)

[97240TB]

I love that alot of doods are going HUD now. So good!

[BustedS13]

subscribed!

[tricky_ab]

Subscribed! I love the work that you do, thanks for creating another thread of your work!

[Broadfield]

First I rough cut the opening in the front trim. I like to use a air powered die grinder.

http://images12.fotki.com/v203/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7369-vi.jpg

Then I get it real close with 80 grit sandpaper. It's pretty much exact. The back edge needs to be perfect since it's going to butt up against my plate. So I have to make sure it's true and flat all the way across. Then the leading edge, where I have sanded a 1" white band all the way around, also needs to be perfect... because well, this will be what you see.

http://images116.fotki.com/v694/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7374-vi.jpg

http://images17.fotki.com/v326/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7382-vi.jpg

http://images43.fotki.com/v679/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7385-vi.jpg

[HPKMotorsports3]

Man you do some sick work...

[tuquik]

Is this one scotties?

[ZilviaKid]

im dick hard for your work broadfield.

[Broadfield]

Is this one scotties?

Yes sir, it is.

[mxsx25]

gahhhhhd i wish i had a set up like this... awesome work as always i cant wait to see the finished product

[CLM_s13Type-x]

awesome work man mad props!!!

[Broadfield]

Time to hack up some more stuff. The back of the OEM cluster, which is actually the cluster, needs some major modification. After removing all of the guts, circuit boards, gauge faces etc:

http://images12.fotki.com/v200/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7358-vi.jpg

http://images12.fotki.com/v200/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7355-vi.jpg

I then knock down the high spots on the back of it with a 3" air sander loaded with a 24 grit pad. This is simply so I can run it through a scroll saw:

http://images52.fotki.com/v728/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7361-vi.jpg

Scroll saw time:

http://images56.fotki.com/v1602/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7364-vi.jpg

http://images54.fotki.com/v202/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7366-vi.jpg

This is with the plate sandwiched between the front trim and back housing. It's a perfect fit and snaps back together with zero movement of the plate. I take great care to utilize the OEM housings. That way I know it will bolt right back in the way it came out:

http://images9.fotki.com/v1603/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7390-vi.jpg

http://images12.fotki.com/v237/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7396-vi.jpg

http://images17.fotki.com/v313/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7399-vi.jpg

http://images35.fotki.com/v1167/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7402-vi.jpg

[Ares240SX]

Damn clean work so far. :)

[importdude]

looking good

[Broadfield]

Time to get down to the meat of this. I traced the outer edge of the Dash2 onto the plate. Using a jigsaw, I carefully cut out the opening for the Dash2 and then used a hole saw for the 52mm gauge. I like my gauges to be perfectly fit in my plates... they will pressure fit in and stay without any sort of mounting. However, I obviously will mount them for the final product unless the customer specifies they need them not mounted. So I use a hole saw that is slightly undersized, then use a drum sander on a die grinder to get it perfect.

http://images40.fotki.com/v775/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7404-vi.jpg

Next up, this is where it comes in handy to have "the skills to pay the bills". Since the Dash2 needs to be angled back at the bottom, I need to make some sort of "cup" for it to sit in and have a nice cosmetically finished look. So I will fiberglass a cup that will be attached to the plate. There a lot of things to take into account when using fiberglass this way. It takes practice and a lot of careful planning.

First is to make a plug that will give me my inner shape of the cup. In this case I want it to have the same shape as the overall shape of the Dash2... only slightly larger. So I made it out of 3/4" MDF. I also used a router on the edges to make it easier to remove the plug once the fiberglass has dried... you'll see what I mean later:

http://images17.fotki.com/v281/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7649-vi.jpg

http://images56.fotki.com/v1601/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7652-vi.jpg

http://images112.fotki.com/v589/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7653-vi.jpg

The tough part of this project is the "jig". This is how I will actually form the cup. In a nutshell, I will lay stretchable material over the plate and press the plug into it and secure the plug. I will then stretch the material tight to get rid of all of the wrinkles and soak it with resin to make the material hard.

http://images116.fotki.com/v695/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7661-vi.jpg

http://images43.fotki.com/v679/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7679-vi.jpg

So now that I have my angle and location of the plug where I want it, I can take it back out and get ready to cover the pieces in masking tape.

http://images19.fotki.com/v677/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7699-vi.jpg

So I cover the bar that the plug attaches to with masking tape. I don't want the fiberglass to stick to this since this is simply part of the jig.

http://images40.fotki.com/v776/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7702-vi.jpg

I also wrap the plug since it has to be removed once the resin dries:

http://images19.fotki.com/v678/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7705-vi.jpg

You can now see how nothing will stick these pieces:

http://images53.fotki.com/v1610/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7711-vi.jpg

For small projects, I use grill cloth as my material. It's very stretchable and easy to work with.

http://images56.fotki.com/v1601/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7714-vi.jpg

Attach the plug over the grill cloth:

http://images43.fotki.com/v679/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7718-vi.jpg

So now I need to make sure I have a place to stretch the material to and be able to secure it with an air trim stapler. I could simply staple it to the plate, but then I would have to go back and fill all of the staple holes. So I put "nailers" where I didn't have a place for staples:

http://images116.fotki.com/v700/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7725-vi.jpg

This is with the material stretched and ready for resin. All that matters is that the area that gets the resin is tight and without wrinkles. Which is only the part behind and around the plug.

http://images40.fotki.com/v775/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7736-vi.jpg

http://images12.fotki.com/v200/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7738-vi.jpg

http://images116.fotki.com/v716/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7747-vi.jpg

http://images40.fotki.com/v776/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7748-vi.jpg

This is after resin, which it's only down inside the cup and right up to the edge of the plate. I want to make sure the cup is attached to the plate, so I make sure to get plenty of resin where the cup meets the plate. So I applied resin from the front and back with a small 1/2' paint brush.

http://images9.fotki.com/v1604/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7751-vi.jpg

Stay tuned for the unveiling!

[mrflip69]

Outstanding work. I hate that you're in Illinois. If ever you're in SoCal, please let us know, I need my interior cleaned up. Hell, I'm tempted to drive to Illinois just to have you work on it LOL!

[BoostSlideWayz]

omg i want one!

[attracted]

Wow very nice

[godrifttoday]

"Almost everyone enjoys building their cars and sharing that experience, as well as checking out others' builds for inspiration. Sadly, far too many users have a tendency to do half-hearted builds and either rarely update or update with trivial progress. In the interest of keeping the Chat forum clear of three hundred 'Install SR, ziptie aero, rattlecan paint' threads, incomplete, or in-progress build threads are not allowed. If you have completed your build, wrangle all those pictures into a post and tell us about it, but make sure the build is finalized. If you insist on having an in-progress build, Premium members have a specialized subforum for that specific purpose."


Rules and regulation

Post all the pics!!! Of this super cool project before the mods close this

[Broadfield]

Uhhhhh, OK. This is going to be wrapped up in like 2 days and then I'll be on my way. I guess someone asking how to tow their wrecked 240 in chat warrants more credit than trying to teach someone the process of how to build something for themselves.

[drifter_for_life06]

im liking this....may try my hand at something like it. If I fail I'm calling you sir!

[Broadfield]

I added some fiberglass mat to the backside where I could get access to. It was impossible to get every where since the jig is in the way. But I wanted to get at least a little where I could. This adds needed strength before I separate it from the jig. After the resin dried, I rough cut away the material and unbolted it from the jig:

http://images116.fotki.com/v700/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7754-vi.jpg

http://images56.fotki.com/v547/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7755-vi.jpg

http://images46.fotki.com/v1453/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7757-vi.jpg

I rough sanded the backside down with 24 grit on my air sander. Then I added fiberglass mat to the whole thing on the backside:

http://images40.fotki.com/v775/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7761-vi.jpg

Next up is to pop the plug out. I also trimmed the material closer to the edge:

http://images54.fotki.com/v459/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7764-vi.jpg

This is after removing the plug and rough sanding with 80 grit by hand:

http://images9.fotki.com/v1617/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7768-vi.jpg

http://images46.fotki.com/v1453/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7769-vi.jpg

http://images40.fotki.com/v776/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7772-vi.jpg

A quick test fit to make sure everything is on track:

http://images43.fotki.com/v680/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7791-vi.jpg

http://images54.fotki.com/v461/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7793-vi.jpg

http://images116.fotki.com/v716/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7797-vi.jpg


Another test fit with the actual Dash2:


http://images56.fotki.com/v1597/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7778-vi.jpg

http://images54.fotki.com/v1594/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7781-vi.jpg

http://images43.fotki.com/v679/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7788-vi.jpg

Stay tuned for the finishing work.

[anton1o]

Your attention to detail and quality of work always amazes me.. Keep it up :D

[zylvia213]

this is legit work. Definitely wouldnt mind having a set up like this on my car

[godrifttoday]

super sick!

[ZilviaKid]

how is the cup sticking to the wood piece? just from all the resin?

[Broadfield]

how is the cup sticking to the wood piece? just from all the resin?

Correct, it is bonded to the wood with the fiberglass mat/resin.

[Broadfield]

Time for the finishing work. I first spray a texture coat to help fill in any deep scratches or weird spots. I sand that with 120, 180 and ending with 220 grit. Since the finished product will have a textured finish, there is no reason to go any finer than 220 grit.

http://images9.fotki.com/v1618/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7801-vi.jpg

http://images40.fotki.com/v776/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7804-vi.jpg

I then spray texture again for the final look. The texture coating by SEM is not a final paint though. You still need to spray your desired color over it. I usually use either SEM Satin Black or SEM Landua Black. In this case I used the later.

http://images23.fotki.com/v860/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7815-vi.jpg

http://images9.fotki.com/v1604/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7830-vi.jpg

With everything assembled back together except for the front clear plastic... which I am going to polish.

http://images12.fotki.com/v240/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7848-vi.jpg

http://images12.fotki.com/v240/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7861-vi.jpg

http://images42.fotki.com/v1373/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7863-vi.jpg

The last thing is to polish the plastic front. This is an option when having me build a cluster.

I first go through a process of wet sanding it front and back with 1200, 1500 and then 2000 grit.

http://images53.fotki.com/v426/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7938-vi.jpg

http://images43.fotki.com/v680/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7939-vi.jpg

I finish it off by polishing it with 4 different compounds made by Pinnacle. I use an air powered 3" polisher with different softness of pads as I work my way to the fine polish:

http://images116.fotki.com/v715/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_7985-vi.jpg

Finished product ready to ship out:

http://images43.fotki.com/v680/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_8010-vi.jpg

http://images54.fotki.com/v459/photos/2/47612/8840999/IMG_8022-vi.jpg

[killer240]

what do you think about using this kind of paint for a dashboard?

is it illegal/legal to run custom cluster? i don't think so, but im not sure?

[ALEXTHESUS*PECT]

wooooooow, so nice!

[punkmonkey0913]

and he does it AGAIN
broadfield is my hero

[scottie]

What can I say? Broadfield IS the MAN!


And just to add...........

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m99/scotheocelot/Dash7.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m99/scotheocelot/Dash9.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m99/scotheocelot/Dash8.jpg

DASH 2 Cluster Solution
Innovative Wideband
Nordskog Fuel Level


Thanks again Toby! The cluster is the cherry on top of my build.

[CamryOnBronze]

^ Glad to see another gauge was added to the other side. I think that is a perfect layout. Nice work as always Tob...

[conrad_s13.5]

so dope man!

[kyles1988]

Nice work Greg!

[nathanong87]

holy moly.

[G240]

Looks great, any reason why you didn't make a custom clear cover? I just think the 3 holes takes away from the awesome work that was done.

[kyles1988]

I don't think people realize it takes 73 master's degrees in thermodynamics and being awesome to make that kind of plastic cover.

[ixfxi]

I don't think people realize it takes 73 master's degrees in thermodynamics and being awesome to make that kind of plastic cover.

or you could just use acrylic...

it wont be easy, but it is possible.

you could also use an optically clear adhesive to fill the hole since its being wetsanded and polished. it wont be perfect but i guess its better than having open holes.

either way, not a big deal. some people are so picky they forget they're driving a 20+ year old rust-bucket

[tricky_ab]

Looking great like always! Man I have to use your services for my glovebox once I figure out what I'd like to run.

[ILoveMyRHS13]

Fantastic work as well.

Our of curiosity, how do you know the driver will be looking at the cluster at 12 degrees?

[funes]

clean work, it is awesome!

[Broadfield]

what do you think about using this kind of paint for a dashboard?

is it illegal/legal to run custom cluster? i don't think so, but im not sure?

I'm sure it's illegal not to have an odometer in certain states/cities.

Fantastic work as well.

Our of curiosity, how do you know the driver will be looking at the cluster at 12 degrees?

12 degrees off axis of a straight on view. So the customer determined where he sat and where the Dash2 would sit in the cluster. It's not an exact science of how much I angled it... as long as it was close.

[Broadfield]

Looks great, any reason why you didn't make a custom clear cover? I just think the 3 holes takes away from the awesome work that was done.

or you could just use acrylic...

it wont be easy, but it is possible.

you could also use an optically clear adhesive to fill the hole since its being wetsanded and polished. it wont be perfect but i guess its better than having open holes.

either way, not a big deal. some people are so picky they forget they're driving a 20+ year old rust-bucket

As Kyle stated, it would not be easy to simply make that piece. I would have to make a mold of the original first... which would be VERY time consuming and VERY difficult. I would then need to use a product called Liquid Ice... which is basically liquid acrylic. That stuff is not cheap either. Then yes, I would have a perfect piece of OEM replica without the holes. But who in their right mind is going to pay me $300 - $400 or more for that piece?

As far as using a piece of acrylic... that's not good either. Acrylic is flat and the OEM piece is actually a compound angle. That would be VERY difficult to form with heat on a consistent level acceptable to me. Then you still wouldn't have anyway to attach it to the front trim. The OEM piece has the clips molded into it.

As for filling the holes... it would look like I tried to fill the holes and failed. Why bother filling the holes if it's going to look like you filled it? It would be different if the holes were a hazard issue... like water was going to get in there or something. Otherwise the holes are harmless.

And on top of all of that, you don't really notice the holes when it's actually mounted in the car and under the dash hood. The only reason you notice them now is because of the direct lighting on it.

As seen in mine, you just don't notice it that much:

http://images38.fotki.com/v1220/photos/4/47612/3915226/7808257-vi.jpg


Toby

[ZilviaKid]

so good man, you really are inspirational.

[G240]

You make valid points Toby. Thanks for the time in explaining.

[ixfxi]

As Kyle stated, it would not be easy to simply make that piece. I would have to make a mold of the original first... which would be VERY time consuming and VERY difficult. I would then need to use a product called Liquid Ice... which is basically liquid acrylic. That stuff is not cheap either. Then yes, I would have a perfect piece of OEM replica without the holes. But who in their right mind is going to pay me $300 - $400 or more for that piece?

As far as using a piece of acrylic... that's not good either. Acrylic is flat and the OEM piece is actually a compound angle. That would be VERY difficult to form with heat on a consistent level acceptable to me. Then you still wouldn't have anyway to attach it to the front trim. The OEM piece has the clips molded into it.

As for filling the holes... it would look like I tried to fill the holes and failed. Why bother filling the holes if it's going to look like you filled it? It would be different if the holes were a hazard issue... like water was going to get in there or something. Otherwise the holes are harmless.

And on top of all of that, you don't really notice the holes when it's actually mounted in the car and under the dash hood. The only reason you notice them now is because of the direct lighting on it.

As seen in mine, you just don't notice it that much:
Toby

i notice it, but then again i am not the customer so it doesnt matter


good job though

[PoorMans180SX]

Call me weird, but I kind of like the asymmetrical design. Either way, this looks awesome. I'll definitely be giving you a call when I want a cluster put together.

[bllabong89]

your work is sooooo sick. great job like always.

[CLM_s13Type-x]

Man you got skills. Its looks factory. Awesome!

[blueshark123]

wouldnt it just be better not using that plastic shield at all

[Broadfield]

Call me weird, but I kind of like the asymmetrical design. Either way, this looks awesome. I'll definitely be giving you a call when I want a cluster put together.

Actually, I like the asymmetrical layout also. Gives it that "raw" feel.

wouldnt it just be better not using that plastic shield at all

It would look a little unfinished, but it's completely up to each person... you can do whatever you want. It is nice because it helps keep dust out.

[ixfxi]

wouldnt it just be better not using that plastic shield at all

deep

i mean, imagine how hard its going to be for the new owner to UNCLIP the original cover


he may need to send it back to toby, in case he doesnt have the strength and/or tools necessary

[onepuff]

Toby have you ever tried vacuum forming for the clear plastic. Here's a link

Vacuum form a clear canopy! (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2076969/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm)

[Broadfield]

Toby have you ever tried vacuum forming for the clear plastic. Here's a link

Vacuum form a clear canopy! (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2076969/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm)

I have a vacuum bag setup at work that we use to make our own veneers on wood etc. However, the plastic I would need to use would be at least 4x as thick as the stuff in that write-up. So I'm not really sure if it would work. It looks to be a good way to do it if it would work on thicker acrylic though. But like I stated, it's not a matter of if I can do it, it's a matter of a customer wanting to pay to have it done. I think a lot of people on here think I make a ton of clusters and that the customer may want an option for a new clear front.... I have made TWO clusters for customers, that's it! Hell, I can't even give away a free S14 cluster because no one has the gauges to put in it. Grant it, I have a couple clusters lined up within the next couple months, but it's just not something that is popular. If they will pay, I will make it!

[onepuff]

Cool just throwing it out there. You were talking about the liquid acrylic stuff so wasn't sure if you were aware of this way.

[xBlastoisex]

dude your stuff is insane!! i remember meeting you a few summers ago at IA. was with kim. do you also do upholstery for customers or only the clusters.

[holemilk00]

There are things on the market for the aquarium industry that you could use to fill those holes that would be flawless after the sanding and polishing process if it ever really bothers someone that much. But for the most part, you don't see it.

[Broadfield]

dude your stuff is insane!! i remember meeting you a few summers ago at IA. was with kim. do you also do upholstery for customers or only the clusters.

What's going on man. I do not do stitched upholstery work for others. I am by no means a professional at it. I have professional results, but only because I take however long I need to get the results I want... I'm not proficient at it. But to do it for money would not be a good business venture for me. However, I do wrap things like the door card inserts, glove box, center console and so forth. That type of upholstery work is what I do for a living when I wrap sub boxes, fiberglass enclosures etc.

There are things on the market for the aquarium industry that you could use to fill those holes that would be flawless after the sanding and polishing process if it ever really bothers someone that much. But for the most part, you don't see it.

Nice man, that's a good idea. Have you had any experience doing it on an acrylic aquarium? I would only want to do that if it was 100% not visible. I'll have to pick some up and give it a try on a junk cluster front. Thanks for the info!

[waxball88]

Cluster is nuts, build thread is nuts, and you're nuts.

Great thread!:bigok:

[holemilk00]

Nice man, that's a good idea. Have you had any experience doing it on an acrylic aquarium? I would only want to do that if it was 100% not visible. I'll have to pick some up and give it a try on a junk cluster front. Thanks for the info!

I've used the Weldon 42 before, its really good stuff and with good prep work its completely transparent when finished, its formulated to set with zero air bubbles in it. I've used it on a few custom built aquariums and its always turned out either perfect, or so close that the average eye would never notice. Here is a thread from an aquarium forum I'm on where some friends of mine used it on a custom tank.

Calvin415's LED lit 12 footer - Nano-Reef.com Forums (http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=154877&st=80)

Starts on page 5 post 89 where he explains the prep work he used and it goes on for a few pages. There are also some pics later in the thread of the tank with water in it showing where the acrylic was bonded together. Calvin talks about one small flaw, but I've seen that tank in person and I can't see what hes talking about and I'm extremely picky.

[Broadfield]

Cluster is nuts, build thread is nuts, and you're nuts.

Great thread!:bigok:

.... as long as I don't like nuts, then I think everything is going to be alright!

I've used the Weldon 42 before, its really good stuff and with good prep work its completely transparent when finished, its formulated to set with zero air bubbles in it. I've used it on a few custom built aquariums and its always turned out either perfect, or so close that the average eye would never notice. Here is a thread from an aquarium forum I'm on where some friends of mine used it on a custom tank.

Calvin415's LED lit 12 footer - Nano-Reef.com Forums (http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=154877&st=80)

Starts on page 5 post 89 where he explains the prep work he used and it goes on for a few pages. There are also some pics later in the thread of the tank with water in it showing where the acrylic was bonded together. Calvin talks about one small flaw, but I've seen that tank in person and I can't see what hes talking about and I'm extremely picky.

Jesus, screw the glue, all I care about is his build. I have been into reef tanks in the past, so I know a thing or two, but nothing like you and your friend there. That build is insane so far. I'm gonna have fun reading it all day.

I'll have to look into that glue.... the results are impressive to say the least. I have a 3M gun I use for my Duramix glues, which uses the same tips as the gun he's using in the pics. So hopefully I don't have to buy another gun.... because that gun he has pictured is at least a couple hundred dollars. And that hardly seems worth it to glue a couple holes on an S13 cluster.;)

Thanks for all of the info, you have been very helpful. Unfortunately it makes me want to get back into reef tanks. And at the moment I am getting into guns, so not enough money to support all of my hobbies.... I knew I should of been a doctor.

Dr. Broadfield has a nice ring to it.:naughty:

[holemilk00]

.... as long as I don't like nuts, then I think everything is going to be alright!



Jesus, screw the glue, all I care about is his build. I have been into reef tanks in the past, so I know a thing or two, but nothing like you and your friend there. That build is insane so far. I'm gonna have fun reading it all day.

I'll have to look into that glue.... the results are impressive to say the least. I have a 3M gun I use for my Duramix glues, which uses the same tips as the gun he's using in the pics. So hopefully I don't have to buy another gun.... because that gun he has pictured is at least a couple hundred dollars. And that hardly seems worth it to glue a couple holes on an S13 cluster.;)

Thanks for all of the info, you have been very helpful. Unfortunately it makes me want to get back into reef tanks. And at the moment I am getting into guns, so not enough money to support all of my hobbies.... I knew I should of been a doctor.

Dr. Broadfield has a nice ring to it.:naughty:

Haha, yeah I drool over a long shallow peninsula like that, I have a house big enough for it, just no where that the woman will let me get away with it, so for now I deal with my 150gal in the dinning room (still not where I wanted it). Just wanted to clarify, I did NOT have anything to do with building that take, I don't want to take credit for anyone's work. While I have done that sort of thing before, that is not an example of my work.

I would think any power glue gun along that lines would work for that, I know I use one that I found online and passed on buying the one from Weldon because of the price. The results are pretty impressive, if I had a the smaller buffers and such that you have I might try it myself on some old clusters I have laying around.

I feel you on the hobby thing, between a new/old house (1933) that I'm trying to completely restore, my cars, my tanks, and my better half, I feel like I can't afford to eat sometimes. haha

I see you as a pediatrician, and you letting the kids call you Dr. Toby.