Car sputtering on a hot day! Plz help

[LB 180SX]

THIS IS A CONTINUATION OF A THREAT I STARTED A FEW YEARS AGO.

I've looked around the forums and havent found anything that would help me out. so if anyone can or give me some advice i would greatly appreciate it.

01/06/2013
its been some time since i ran the car. and it seems that whatever the problem is, its now worse. I started this threat some time back when my car started acting up. if you want to read the full details, scroll down.. otherwise Long Story short:
i have a 1991 240sx Hatch stock KA. i use to drive it about 120 miles a day, it started acting up on hot days, after driving uphill on the freeway. it would sputter really bad, id pull over for about 10min and it would start up and run just fine. no CEL (im sure they work because i replaced cluster and checked voltage). now, i started driving it on cold days and it seems that every now and then the car would lose power while on the freeway for about 2 seconds then slowly kick back to full power. it use to only do that on hot days but now its both.. a couple days ago, i noticed the idle was fluctuating from about 500 to 1300. i drove the car and was able to get around, the following day i warmed up the car and after about 5 minutes the idle started acting up again. i drove the car to the store and the car would stall when i came to a stop sign. it would shut off, i would turn on the car again but the idle would be rough, if i give it gas it will come one and i can drive up until about the next light when i slow down it shuts off. smells alot like fuel now, and it seems like its puffing out smoke from exhaust making a *poof..poof..poof* type of sound. not sure where to even begging, being that its been an on going problem that no one seems to explain what it is. and ive took it to the dealer and several mechanics, and i feel im just wasting my money becasue ive replaced so many things and the problem still exists. no CEL so that doesnt help very much.

any help would be much apreciate it, cus i am soooo lost. and no one seems to know what is going on
thanks



Im adding more info as of today 11/17/10 -
the same problem still keeps happening. ill try to be a bit more detailed of when i notice this problem.
yesterday i ran the car back home, about 50 miles. it drove perfectly fine at about 70mph. the weather was prety warm, so traffic started picking up and i decided to exit and take the streets becasue i didnt want to run into this problem. it drove fine for about 10 min. then it started sputtering, i pulled over just sat there about 30min. and took off again. and the same thing happened about another 15 min later. i sat there about 10 min then left. then one more time close to my house it did it again,. so i came to notice that this happens on a warm day like i mentioned. after going uphill. its takes off fine on 1st. as soon as i shift to 2nd it starts sputtering really bad. so i pull over . and i also noticed that in about 15 min. the car can be driven again for a bit depending on how hot it is outside. so could there be something that is getting really hot thats causing this?? because like i mentioned, after sitting there for a bit just cooling down it drives fine.


11/01/2010
I have a 91 240sx hatch with a stock KA.
Ive been having all kinds of issues but have fixed them and corrected all of them. It all started with the car sputtering while driving figured out the problem and it was a clogged up fuel filter, then a couple weeks later my fuel pump went bad. I replaced that.
This problem seem to start last summer and it seems to always happen on a hot day..

Im driving on a hot day in heavy traffic. I was going about 70mph for about an hour then traffic slows down. then it was stop and goes from there. after about 15min of that my car started sputterring really bad. it shut off on the highway, i managed to started back up and pulled over to the emergency lane. i checked everything i could think off. and everything seem to be fine. my car started up after a while of just sitting there and i was able to drive it home. I did a full tune-up on it, oil change, changed the MAF, cleaned the throttle body anything having to do with air induction, i cleaned it. I drove it fine for a while, then weather started getting a bit cooler and it drove fine.

but just recently it got hot again, and my car started doing the same thing again. after driving for a while on the highway i come to slow traffic and after a couple minutes it starts sputterring. I cant seem to figure out the problem. It seems to me that it does this on a hot day on the highway in slow traffic. becasue im stuck in traffic all the time, but drives fine on non hot day. it drives fine on a boiling hot day on the street.

any help or advice becauue im completley lost and have no clue what the problem might be. thanks in advance

[Schassis707]

collant temp sensor? they are rather cheap just a random guess.

[Driftnut69]

TPS. My car did the same exact thing.

[mack97]

My car had a similar sputtering issue and had a code for the coolant temperature sensor, i replaced it, no more sputter. Not sure if youre getting any codes though.

[Mishkin_707]

im with everyone who said, temp sensor, mine did the same crapola, just unplug it and see if you see a difference in performance.

also, mine didnt throw a code for it, always came out 55

[LB 180SX]

okay i will try this info out tomorrow when i have a chance.
how much is a TPS by the way.??
thanks guys

[Pirate_Freder]

tps sensor is more expensive($75 at oreilly's w/ lifetime warranty) but you can test it very easily with a multimeter and it may just need adjustment. I believe that more than likely though these guys are right about the coolant temp sensor.

[LB 180SX]

okay i replaced my coolant temperature sensor. ill run it tomorrow and see how it runs. althought its not that hot anymore.so well see. thanks for the help guys

[LB 180SX]

i replaced what was said, and yesterday the weather was a bit warm and my car started acting up again.. i added a bit more info .. can anyone please help me. thanks

[clay9110]

Check your plugs and let us know what they look like. Also check your tps as stated.

[LB 180SX]

plugs are good.. i will check out the TPS

[LB 180SX]

i replaced the TPS. and its still doing the same thing.. ugghh.
any idea anyone??
someone mentioned that its a posibility ECU gets to hot, thats why i have to sit and cool down for a couple minutes. could it be???

[LB 180SX]

can anyone help with this issue. Or anyone have any idea. Maybe even refer to a reliable mechanic! Thanks

[thisisnotphil1]

It sounds to me like youre having an injector problem. Ive heard of people having injector issues after replacing fuel filters. Its possible that there is a sticky injector that is getting worse as time goes on and its getting stuck open. Hence the fuel smell and smoke. When you give it gas, youre giving it enough spark and air to combust whatever fuel is in the cylinder but at idle you would have symptoms like you explained. Although if it was an injector, im at a loss as to why a mechanic or dealor wouldnt be aware of this. When you pulled out the plugs were any of them wet? I HIGHLY doubt your ecu heating up is the problem.

[rcdad123]

there are a lot of things that can cause your problem that is heat related. it could be vapor lock, check your gas cap. could be ignition problem, check coil and igniter. check your intake air temp sensor, check the engine coolant temp sensor again. check everything that can get hot over time. i know you said it only happens when the weather is warm or hot, but they are all worth a look. good luck. please keep us posted.

[LB 180SX]

i havent tried the fuel injectors yet. ill double check that or maybe replace them. but ive took a gamble at many things already and for whatver reason the problem hasnt been solved. gas cap i replaced with oem from dealer. i replaced all the sensors so im not sure its any of them. ignition coil ive replaced with a used one. but the problem still continued after.. any idea if it may be something with the tranny? or any sensors, since i mentioned it would take off fine at 1st but once i shifted to 2nd it would start sputtering. like i mentioned it only did it on hot days after running it for a while. . as for now im trying to figure out what is causing the idle to act up and all the fuel smell.. any input would be appreciated . thanks

[shaggy sr]

looks like i had the same issue. the thread in the block is cracked, who knows?

[racepar1]

Check the MAF wiring. The pins come loose inside and the wiring shielding comes apart under the little rubber boot thing for the connector. Also, make sure it isn't dirty. A dirty MAF can cause all kinds of issues. As stated previously, check your TPS as well. If the TPS has two connectors then you need to check the signal voltage and the function of the closed throttle position switch. Have you checked the tune-up at all? What condition are the spark plugs, cap & rotor, and wires in? Checking the plugs should give you an idea of whether the issue is on one cylinder or all cylinders. I've had a bad coil wire cause a no/hard start and stalling before as well as a really bad cap & rotor. What about vacuum leaks? There are really a lot of posssibilities, why don't you start with what you've already done to try and fix the issue? Make a list...

[Precision Flow Labs]

I'm with the maf wiring or possibly caps in the ecu are going bad.

[LB 180SX]

ill check the maf and wiring. i've made a list of what ive replaced on this threat, i replaced from fuel pump, to cat converter, i rebuild engine, replaced all sensors, gas cap, fuel pump, fuel filter, did tune up, ignition coil, ive had mechanics look at it and nothing. my question is what can possibly heat up and once cool allow me to run fine until it heats up again, i want to narrow it down to see what i can start looking at. since that seems to be the problem, or loosing power for a couple seconds while running.

[racepar1]

ill check the maf and wiring. i've made a list of what ive replaced on this threat, i replaced from fuel pump, to cat converter, i rebuild engine, replaced all sensors, gas cap, fuel pump, fuel filter, did tune up, ignition coil, ive had mechanics look at it and nothing. my question is what can possibly heat up and once cool allow me to run fine until it heats up again, i want to narrow it down to see what i can start looking at. since that seems to be the problem, or loosing power for a couple seconds while running.

I see no list. Your "list" is spread out throughout multiple posts, which makes it hard to go through. A list is organized like so:

1: this
2: is
3: a
4: list

thisisnotalist

Like I said before, there are a LOT of possibilities.

Start by looking at the MAF wiring and maybe trying another MAF. Soucing another used MAF shouldn't be very hard or expensive. It's extremely unlikely that you'll get another MAF that has the same issue.

You say you did a "tune-up". What exactly did you replace? Plugs, wires, and cap & rotor. Or just the plugs? This goes back to the whole list thing again... I don't really think that your issue is related to any of those things. Usually "tune-up" issues are more consistent, but I want to make sure that I have a complete understanding of what's been done.

I HIGHLY doubt that your injectors are the issue. Bad injectors cause a misfire, not a hesitation.

[rcdad123]

you did not mention trying a different ignition igniter. ford had a problem with the igniter back in the day that stumped mechanics because when it cools down, the engine would run fine. i also had a civic that had a bad coil when it gets hot. if i let the car sit for a few minutes, coil cools down and run fine again till coil heats up. had to diagnose it as soon as the engine stalled.

[thisisnotphil1]

I see no list. Your "list" is spread out throughout multiple posts, which makes it hard to go through. A list is organized like so:

1: this
2: is
3: a
4: list

thisisnotalist

Like I said before, there are a LOT of possibilities.

Start by looking at the MAF wiring and maybe trying another MAF. Soucing another used MAF shouldn't be very hard or expensive. It's extremely unlikely that you'll get another MAF that has the same issue.

You say you did a "tune-up". What exactly did you replace? Plugs, wires, and cap & rotor. Or just the plugs? This goes back to the whole list thing again... I don't really think that your issue is related to any of those things. Usually "tune-up" issues are more consistent, but I want to make sure that I have a complete understanding of what's been done.

I HIGHLY doubt that your injectors are the issue. Bad injectors cause a misfire, not a hesitation.


Ok heres a list for you:

1. dont be a dick because you have to read alittle to help this guy out.
2. If you read what i wrote, and or had any idea how injectors actually work, i didnt say they werent working, OBVIOUSLY it would be missing. i said one is possibly STUCK OPEN.
3. IF the MAF Was bad hed be having issue ALL the time, not only when the car was hot or cold. Obviously you think electrical components are affected by temperature. (besides temp sensors. Thought youd catch me there didnt you?)
4. You CAN have injector issues AFTER REPLACING A FUEL FILTER. (again, good job reading on your part :down:)
5. If he had a tune up done, dont you think AN ACTUAL MECHANIC would have checked stupid little things like that? Like plugs, or wires, or the cap and rotor?! I hope so. It would be the simple things like that they would check first.
6. By the way, what are some things that can cause an injector to stick open? How about HEAT for instance? But according to this guy he highly doubts its the injectors, because injectors ONLY cause miss firing...
7. If the car is emitting smoke, it can only be 4 things burning. Hmm what could they be?

A. Coolant
B. Oil
C. Fuel
D. The car itself

Very good class.

8. If it was burning coolant THAT rapidly, wouldnt it over heat? Most likely. If it was burning oil, and this guy who im defending isnt a fool i hope, would smell that much oil being burned, wouldnt that be noticabe? So that only leaves fuel. If theres too much fuel in one or more of the cylinders, cause by an injector that is STUCK OPEN, and a spark that cant handle the fuel load, wouldnt it bog down and stall, LIKE HE STATED?! And if you give fuel, more air and more spark, accelerating for instance, wouldnt that solve the problem for the moment?! And if fuel ignites in the exhaust, wouldnt it back fire? And most likely smoke causing a "poof poof poof" sound? And if the car was on fire im sure we wouldnt be having this conversation.
9. How about back firing? What causes that...hmm i wonder. AGAIN. How about TOO MUCH FUEL? Incase you are unaware of what back firing actually is, its when excess fuel escapes the cylinder into the exhaust and is ignited.
10. How about the smell of excesive fuel? hmm could it be...TOO MUCH FUEL?
11. And last, but not least, he changed his fuel pump and his fuel filter. Hes driving a bone stock ka with an unknown amount of mileage. Oh, I forgot, injectors are the only thing on ANY car that are designed to last forever. Silly me. What makes you think after all this time of him driving it, there could be nothing possibly wrong with the injectors? (just make sure you let that last question settle in your hard ass head for a couple minutes)

EXACTLY.

So, PLEASE, tell me again why bad injectors cause a miss fire and not a hesitation. Id truely love to hear it. Theres 10 examples as to why one or more INJECTORS, could be the issue. In list form. Just how you like. But what do i know? Stop being a condescending douche pickle and use your head :cj:

Now for everyone else who werent d bags. I think Its possible that the MAF is bad but its unlikely based on when hes having the issue. Regardless of how hot or cold the sensor itself actually is, wont affect its reading. The only thing that would affect the sensors reading is the temperature of the air because with different temperatures you also have different density and pressure of the air itself. The MAF can ONLY tell the ecu about the air flow. The ecu then will adjust injector duty based on the reading that it recieves from the o2 sensor. Its possible that the mixture is rich but not rich enough to trip the check engine light. OR the cluster you put in is not working properly or bulbs are out or something stupid like that. IF an injector is stuck open, dumping too much fuel for that cylinder, it becomes impossible to have the correct ratio. Unless of course you happen to be at the correct rpm at the correct time for all the injectors to match the stuck injector. that is why i believe it is a single injector.

[thisisnotphil1]

you did not mention trying a different ignition igniter. ford had a problem with the igniter back in the day that stumped mechanics because when it cools down, the engine would run fine. i also had a civic that had a bad coil when it gets hot. if i let the car sit for a few minutes, coil cools down and run fine again till coil heats up. had to diagnose it as soon as the engine stalled.

I know ka's use distributors. I didnt think they had ignitors or coils.

[racepar1]

Ok heres a list for you:

1. dont be a dick because you have to read alittle to help this guy out.

The issue that the OP is having is clearly unusual and somewhat complicated. In order for this issue to be diagnosed OVER THE INTERNET the OP needs to be VERY clear about what's been done. I do not feel that he has been very clear at all. Things are spread out all over this thread and his sentences are hardly readable with all the grammatical and punctuation errors. I'll be a dick to whomever I please, including YOU. I am a mechanic for a living and there's nothing more annoying than customers that want their cars diagnosed over the phone. It's pretty much not possible which is why I stress being VERY clear.

2. If you read what i wrote, and or had any idea how injectors actually work, i didnt say they werent working, OBVIOUSLY it would be missing. i said one is possibly STUCK OPEN.

An stuck open injector would also cause a misfire and one of the plugs would be washed/fouled out, which is why I told the OP to pull his plugs and check them. The condition of the plugs will tell you if the issue is on one cylinder or all cylinders.

3. IF the MAF Was bad hed be having issue ALL the time, not only when the car was hot or cold. Obviously you think electrical components are affected by temperature. (besides temp sensors. Thought youd catch me there didnt you?)

The MAF is mounted in the engine bay so it is subject for issues only when hot or cold. Also just because the issue SEEMS to happen hot doesn't mean that is isn't just an intermittent electrical issue and the car must be driven for a while before it fails. Electrical component failures commonly happen when the ambient temperature changes from cold to hot, or vise-versa. ALL electrical components can suffer failure from temperature, not just temperature sensors. The MAF failure wouldn't necessarily happen all the time either. ANY electrical component can suffer an intermittent failure.

4. You CAN have injector issues AFTER REPLACING A FUEL FILTER. (again, good job reading on your part :down:)

Injectors cause misfires, period. It will not cause a hesitation. The only reason for an injector failure after fuel filter replacement would be if foriegn particles got into the fuel rail somehow, like a defective fuel filter. This is extremely uncommon however.

5. If he had a tune up done, dont you think AN ACTUAL MECHANIC would have checked stupid little things like that? Like plugs, or wires, or the cap and rotor?! I hope so. It would be the simple things like that they would check first.

"Actual mechanics" are not always any good from my experience. I AM an ACTUAL mechanic and I've seen a LOT of bullshit from other so-called "actual mechanic's". This goes back to me trying to be thorough since I'm attempting to diagnose over the internet without ever seeing the car in person.

6. By the way, what are some things that can cause an injector to stick open? How about HEAT for instance? But according to this guy he highly doubts its the injectors, because injectors ONLY cause miss firing...

If a cylinder has too much fuel, it misfires. If a cylinder has too little fuel, is misfires. I have seen injectors cause intermittent misses before, but the OP is not describing a misfire. He is describing a hesitation and loss of power.

7. If the car is emitting smoke, it can only be 4 things burning. Hmm what could they be?

A. Coolant
B. Oil
C. Fuel
D. The car itself

Very good class.

There are multiple causes for smoke from any of those possibilities. I'm trying to narrow it down. Thanks for the lesson, but you're just acting a fool. I didn't see the OP complaining about smoke and even if he did that isn't necessarily related to his hesitation.

8. If it was burning coolant THAT rapidly, wouldnt it over heat? Most likely. If it was burning oil, and this guy who im defending isnt a fool i hope, would smell that much oil being burned, wouldnt that be noticabe? So that only leaves fuel. If theres too much fuel in one or more of the cylinders, cause by an injector that is STUCK OPEN, and a spark that cant handle the fuel load, wouldnt it bog down and stall, LIKE HE STATED?! And if you give fuel, more air and more spark, accelerating for instance, wouldnt that solve the problem for the moment?! And if fuel ignites in the exhaust, wouldnt it back fire? And most likely smoke causing a "poof poof poof" sound? And if the car was on fire im sure we wouldnt be having this conversation.

A stuck open injector would cause the cylinder to be flooded all the time and it would miss consistently. This would be accompanied by a strong fuel smell and a washed clean spark plug/cylinder. A MAF sensor can grossly affect fuel delivery to all the cylinders and cause similar symptoms intermittently. Shut the fuck up about injectors already.

9. How about back firing? What causes that...hmm i wonder. AGAIN. How about TOO MUCH FUEL? Incase you are unaware of what back firing actually is, its when excess fuel escapes the cylinder into the exhaust and is ignited.

Ignition issues can cause backfiring as well...

10. How about the smell of excesive fuel? hmm could it be...TOO MUCH FUEL?

A maf can cause excessive fuel delivery...

11. And last, but not least, he changed his fuel pump and his fuel filter. Hes driving a bone stock ka with an unknown amount of mileage. Oh, I forgot, injectors are the only thing on ANY car that are designed to last forever. Silly me. What makes you think after all this time of him driving it, there could be nothing possibly wrong with the injectors? (just make sure you let that last question settle in your hard ass head for a couple minutes)

Nissan side-feed injectors very commonly fail. I've replaced dozens myself. Every single time a misfire was the issue, and only once or twice was the issue intermittent. The issue that the OP is having is clearly electrical.

EXACTLY.

So, PLEASE, tell me again why bad injectors cause a miss fire and not a hesitation. Id truely love to hear it. Theres 10 examples as to why one or more INJECTORS, could be the issue. In list form. Just how you like. But what do i know? Stop being a condescending douche pickle and use your head :cj:

Look kid, I've been doing this for over 10 years professionally. I've been specializing in 240's specifically for 7 or 8 years. I am an ASE certified master technician. Don't try to talk down to me. I know more than you do. I've got more experience than you do, in EVERY concievable manner. MANY zilvians have come to me with MANY issues that they couldn't figure out and I have yet to hear of an un-satisfied customer. I know what the fuck I'm talking about, you clearly don't. I have no idea why you got so offended by my post. I am a very thorough person. I have a very thorough understanding of how difficult is is to diagnose a car not in-person. I expect others to be thorough and clear when describing their issues and the process they went through to try and diagnose it. If they are not thorough I'm just taking shots in the dark, which doesn't help. You are not being very helpful yourself. You are so focused in on the injector thing that you can't think about anything else. How many injector issues have YOU diagnosed? What experience do YOU have to draw on to support your conclusions? I've got plenty of both...

[thisisnotphil1]

Oh im sorry. I forgot that because of all the knowledge and experience that you have completely voids anything i have to say.

Isnt bogging and sputtering and stalling considered miss firing? If its completely flooded from the injector being open and washing out the spark? I forgot i dont know anything because of all your experience.

If the MAF is fucked up, it should be less likely that it would run perfect until it got hot. But since youre such a perfect mechanic, no other mechanic in the entire world would replace something so easy as a MAF sensor.

And why is it so uncommon that foreign particles to get past the fuel filter after changing it? And again, if its bogging its obviously missing, because theres too much fuel, washing out the spark. You dont know how clean or sloppy he does his work. But i forgot, the best most experienced mechanic in the world knows everything.

AGAIN, a loss of power would be a misfire. Injectors that are stuck open can cause a misfire if there isnt enough spark. But what happens if you accelerate and add more spark and more air? The misfire would go away wouldnt it? AND HE SAID HE CHANGED THE MAF!!!! YOU YOURSELF SAID THIS, AND I QUOTE. ( i literally copied and pasted this)

LB 180SX-"I did a full tune-up on it, oil change, changed the MAF, cleaned the throttle body anything having to do with air induction, i cleaned it. I drove it fine for a while, then weather started getting a bit cooler and it drove fine."

racepar1-"Start by looking at the MAF wiring and maybe trying another MAF. Soucing another used MAF shouldn't be very hard or expensive. It's extremely unlikely that you'll get another MAF that has the same issue."

But because youre the best and most knowledgeable mechanic on the face of this planet im sure this MAF that he just changed is bad too. I wish your reading skills were as good as your mechanic skills.

Another quote...

LB 180SX- "it would shut off, i would turn on the car again but the idle would be rough, if i give it gas it will come one and i can drive up until about the next light when i slow down it shuts off. smells alot like fuel now, and it seems like its puffing out smoke from exhaust making a *poof..poof..poof* type of sound."

This is directly related to hesitation if he is getting too much fuel and again, like you said, washing out the spark. SO THAT MEANS. If there is no spark, the fuel is going through the exhaust valve and igniting in the exhaust causing a poof poof poof sound and making smoke. But i thought the worlds most experienced mechanic would have an understanding of this. And the only thing acting a fool is your deplorable reading comprehension.

I know how hard it is for you to read, so just take a minute and get ready to read some more.

Ok. Ready?

Yes, obviously ignition issues can cause misfiring too. But what are the chances of him getting new plugs and new wires and new cap and rotor and new spark plugs and it STILL being an ignition issue? Not likely. Im just reviewing now because i know how much trouble you had reading everything the first time.

The MAF being new, because he changed it, remember? Will not, by itself, cause excessive fuel delivery. It would obviously need help from something else that MONITORS EXHAUST. idk the o2 SENSOR MAYBE?! And incase you didnt understand the part where he said there is no check engine light, the o2 OBVIOUSLY isnt bad because the light is not on..

AGAINNNN, you said it yourself that nissan side feed injectors COMMONLY FAIL. VERBATUM. (that means i said, literally, the exact same thing as you did). JUST BECAUSE there isnt a missfire doesnt mean that the injectors werent the problem. But the mechanic whos seen everything EVER i thought would know that..and again if you cant even see the car, HOW IS THERE CLEARLY AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE? Thats what i thought.

Even after all this that ive explained it doesnt matter what i know because im just some zilvia kid that doesnt have any experience and have know mechanical knowledge what so ever. I CLEARLY have some idea what im talking about because i literally just proved everything you threw at me WRONG. i am also a very thorough person but in a different way. I like to READ AND UNDERSTAND what is going on before i get my dick hard and go in on other people trying to help. Unlike you. And i dont have to verify my credentials to you. Me explaining everything i JUST SAID should be enough. But ill say it one last time...YOU CANT READ GOOD.

[racepar1]

Oh im sorry. I forgot that because of all the knowledge and experience that you have completely voids anything i have to say.

Isnt bogging and sputtering and stalling considered miss firing? If its completely flooded from the injector being open and washing out the spark? I forgot i dont know anything because of all your experience.

If the MAF is fucked up, it should be less likely that it would run perfect until it got hot. But since youre such a perfect mechanic, no other mechanic in the entire world would replace something so easy as a MAF sensor.

And why is it so uncommon that foreign particles to get past the fuel filter after changing it? And again, if its bogging its obviously missing, because theres too much fuel, washing out the spark. You dont know how clean or sloppy he does his work. But i forgot, the best most experienced mechanic in the world knows everything.

AGAIN, a loss of power would be a misfire. Injectors that are stuck open can cause a misfire if there isnt enough spark. But what happens if you accelerate and add more spark and more air? The misfire would go away wouldnt it? AND HE SAID HE CHANGED THE MAF!!!! YOU YOURSELF SAID THIS, AND I QUOTE. ( i literally copied and pasted this)

LB 180SX-"I did a full tune-up on it, oil change, changed the MAF, cleaned the throttle body anything having to do with air induction, i cleaned it. I drove it fine for a while, then weather started getting a bit cooler and it drove fine."

racepar1-"Start by looking at the MAF wiring and maybe trying another MAF. Soucing another used MAF shouldn't be very hard or expensive. It's extremely unlikely that you'll get another MAF that has the same issue."

But because youre the best and most knowledgeable mechanic on the face of this planet im sure this MAF that he just changed is bad too. I wish your reading skills were as good as your mechanic skills.

Another quote...

LB 180SX- "it would shut off, i would turn on the car again but the idle would be rough, if i give it gas it will come one and i can drive up until about the next light when i slow down it shuts off. smells alot like fuel now, and it seems like its puffing out smoke from exhaust making a *poof..poof..poof* type of sound."

This is directly related to hesitation if he is getting too much fuel and again, like you said, washing out the spark. SO THAT MEANS. If there is no spark, the fuel is going through the exhaust valve and igniting in the exhaust causing a poof poof poof sound and making smoke. But i thought the worlds most experienced mechanic would have an understanding of this. And the only thing acting a fool is your deplorable reading comprehension.

I know how hard it is for you to read, so just take a minute and get ready to read some more.

Ok. Ready?

Yes, obviously ignition issues can cause misfiring too. But what are the chances of him getting new plugs and new wires and new cap and rotor and new spark plugs and it STILL being an ignition issue? Not likely. Im just reviewing now because i know how much trouble you had reading everything the first time.

The MAF being new, because he changed it, remember? Will not, by itself, cause excessive fuel delivery. It would obviously need help from something else that MONITORS EXHAUST. idk the o2 SENSOR MAYBE?! And incase you didnt understand the part where he said there is no check engine light, the o2 OBVIOUSLY isnt bad because the light is not on..

AGAINNNN, you said it yourself that nissan side feed injectors COMMONLY FAIL. VERBATUM. (that means i said, literally, the exact same thing as you did). JUST BECAUSE there isnt a missfire doesnt mean that the injectors werent the problem. But the mechanic whos seen everything EVER i thought would know that..and again if you cant even see the car, HOW IS THERE CLEARLY AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE? Thats what i thought.

Even after all this that ive explained it doesnt matter what i know because im just some zilvia kid that doesnt have any experience and have know mechanical knowledge what so ever. I CLEARLY have some idea what im talking about because i literally just proved everything you threw at me WRONG. i am also a very thorough person but in a different way. I like to READ AND UNDERSTAND what is going on before i get my dick hard and go in on other people trying to help. Unlike you. And i dont have to verify my credentials to you. Me explaining everything i JUST SAID should be enough. But ill say it one last time...YOU CANT READ GOOD.

You are just some zilvia kid with no experience or backround to speak of. I looked through your posts and threads, I know who I'm dealing with. I'm busy at work so I don't have time to go through every statement in your little rant. If the OP is mis-describing a misfire then that's his problem. I didn't read every post in the thread, I skimmed through it and offered what I had to offer. I still think you're wrong, injectors are not typically intermittent. Out of all the nissan fuel injectors that I've replaced none of them were stuck open. That is not very likely. I have seen the lower injector o-rings leak fuel into the intake runners, but this would not be intermittent. The MAF is the PRIMARY sensor that the ecu uses to determine fuel delivery. The O2 is just a double-check and for fine tuning. Another possibility is a bad fuel pressure regulator diaphragm leaking fuel into the vacuum hose. This also would not be intermittent though. Intermittent failures are almost exclusively electrical related. Not many mechanical parts will work sometimes and not others. I can tell that you have some basic understanding of how things work, but it's only basic. You have no real-world experience to draw your conclusions from.

You seem a little over zealous in your arguments. I still have no idea why you took so much offense to me suggesting that the injectors are not the issue.

[thisisnotphil1]

Oh so now not only do you know everything there is to know about mechanics, you in turn also know who I am and what I've done and EVERYTHING there is to know about me. Based solely on the 50 something posts I've posted. Half of which I posted like 4 years ago. And I find it funny to believe you can go through all my posts and you cant read what I wrote. But whatever. You come off like a prick so I answered you. Like a prick. You didn't read half of what he said so what makes you qualified to give him any answers if you're just assuming? LB 180SX- if you changed the MAF and you're having the same exact problem. IT'S NOT THE MAF.

[racepar1]

Oh so now not only do you know everything there is to know about mechanics, you in turn also know who I am and what I've done and EVERYTHING there is to know about me. Based solely on the 50 something posts I've posted. Half of which I posted like 4 years ago. And I find it funny to believe you can go through all my posts and you cant read what I wrote. But whatever. You come off like a prick so I answered you. Like a prick. You didn't read half of what he said so what makes you qualified to give him any answers if you're just assuming? LB 180SX- if you changed the MAF and you're having the same exact problem. IT'S NOT THE MAF.

I can judge by what you've posted, your age, and your responses to what I posted. I don't know everything about you, but I've got some information to work with. I'm not just taking shots in the dark here. If you had any credentials or experience you would have mentioned it. I mentioned my experience and credentials because you questioned it with your little statements about "actual mechanics". It's funny how pissy inexperienced people get when you start to talk about your own experience... BTW, I never said that i know everything about mechanics, just that I know more than YOU. Since you took so much offense I guess you must know everything then huh?

I didn't see that the OP had changed the MAF in the past because this thread is a god damned mess. That's why I asked the OP to organize it better for me to understand. What I got was a pathetic "attempt" at a list. If I'm going to spend my time to try and help someone I expect them to make my job as easy as possible and invest their OWN time and effort. The OP's half-assed response pissed me off.

The solution that you're proposing is NOT intermittent. The issue that the OP is describing IS intermittent. I'm trying to make you understand that, but you don't want to hear it. If the OP is misunderstanding or mis-describing his issue it will never be solved. I guarantee you that if the OP was to bring the car to me at my work and have me check it out I could fix it. I have no doubts about that. He might have to leave the car for a few days, but I could get it done. The OP lives kinda far away for that to be a possibility though.

LB 180sx:
I highly reccomend that you start a new thread with a more thorough and consistent description of the issue. I also reccomend that you CLEARLY list what was done to try and fix the issue and describe any changes that it made. The more information you provide, the better responses you'll get. The more thorough and organized you are in listing what you've done, the better responses you'll get. If you provide half-assed disorganized information, you're going to get half-ass disorganized responses. This is exactly what happened here.

[LB 180SX]

ok. so the check engine light ended up coming on. and i came to find out my MAF sensor was toast. the back part of had come off, and one of the wires looks like was burning up. i also saw that it wasnt an OEM maf sensor. i replaced with an OEM Maf sensor i bought and the fuel smell went away. the idle wasnt running rough anymore. and the check engine light went away after i drove it for a while. seems to me that was the cause of my last problem. now im wondering if that also the cause of my sputtering issues on hot days.. hmmm